Local Flavor April 2015 by Cullen Curtiss

A TASTE OF LIFE IN NEW MEXICO

SANTA FE | ALBUQUERQUE | TAOS

The

Homestead Issue

APRIL 2015

Elevating Santa Fe’s optical experience with refreshing & artistic independent eyewear.

Most of the eyewear in the world is produced by a few companies. We would like to show you something different!

125 LINCOLN AVE., SUITE 114 • 988.4444

APRIL 2015

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OJOOPTIQUE.COM • FACEBOOK • TWITTER

Santa Fe Fine Consign Antiques & New

clothing, footwear and accessories for women & men

Santa Fe’s Newest Consignment for Fine Furniture Located at 851 West San Mateo Road in Santa Fe Across from Tesoro’s Consignment (505) 983-0145 • santafefineconsign.com

seventy west street • •505.982.1399 wearaboutssf.com seventy westmarcy marcy street 505.982.1399 ••wearaboutssf.com

FOR RESERVATIONS moderngeneralnm.com

$10

March 29, 2PM

FEARLESS VEGETABLE GARDENING 1: GET YOUR HANDS IN THE DIRT Composting, cover cropping and a biological approach to happy soil

April 19, 2PM

FEARLESS VEGETABLE GARDENING 2: MAKING MUD PIES

Germinating, Seeding & Soil Blocking

May 17, 2PM

FEARLESS VEGETABLE GARDENING 3: FARMER-CISING

How to double-dig a raised bed, direct seeding & transplanting outdoors

June 28, 2PM

FEARLESS VEGETABLE GARDENING 4: THE LEAVES OF YOUR LABOUR

A tasting of greens and vinaigrettes along with discussion of proper harvesting and post-harvesting techniques

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

APRIL 2015

Inside The Buzz … and the Art Buzz by Kelly Koepke 10

Just like the bees of spring, we’re buzzin’ all around town for the latest news.

The Art Buzz

by Kelly Koepke 12 A quick look at some of our favorite openings in Albuquerque, Santa Fe and Taos.

Gutierrez-Hubbell House by Emily Beenen 13

Join us as we explore one of the South Valley’s greatest environmental, historical and cultural treasures—the Gutierrez-Hubbell House.

Get Your Hands in the Dirt by Gordon Bunker 18

The primal tug of gardening can be pretty powerful—but so can the obstacles. Do yourself a favor and listen to the local pros.

A Life Home Grown by Gail Snyder 22

Homesteading in Pojoaque.

Renaissance at Black Mesa Winery by Tom Hill and Susan Clough 26

When a local winery brings home Double Gold awards from one of the most prestigious wine competitions in the U.S., it’s not only cause for celebration—it’s time for a second look.

The Ingredients of Great Service by Erin Brooks 30

Local Flavor asks three professional servers what they think defines great service.

Grounded in Tradition

by Emily Ruch 32 Old time dancing for good old fashioned fun!

Still Hungry?

Photo: Gabriella Marks

by Lily Carbone 36 Our springtime offering— recipes to celebrate Earth Day from four restaurants that celebrate sustainability with actions and not just words.

ON OUR COVER: A Young Homesteader 4

APRIL 2015

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itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s closer than you think.. Local ingredients, served locally. We seek out the freshest, seasonal organic produce, meats and fish. Then we serve it up with flair and attentive service right in your neighborhood. Join locals supporting locals. Deliciously.

OLD TOWN ALBUQUERQUE 505.766.5100 www.seasonsabq.com

HISTORIC NOB HILL

ALBUQUERQUE HEIGHTS

505.254.ZINC(9462)

505.294.WINE(9463)

www.zincabq.com

www.savoyabq.com

Amyo Farms in Bosque Farms and Albuquerque, NM.

ALBUQUERQUE, SANTA FE 505.850.2459 www.tasteabq.com

. .truly local.

MAGAZINE.COM

APRIL 2015

Congratulations to the Winners

PUBLISHERS Patty & Peter Karlovitz

of the 23rd Annual

EDITOR

Chocolate Fantasy

Patty Karlovitz

PUBLISHER’S ASSISTANT

presented by

Lily Carbone

WEB EDITOR

“Most Artistic Sculpture” Division

Hotels & Casinos Category

Melyssa Holik

Restaurants & Caterers Category

Charity Teague Hyatt Tamaya Resort and Spa “King of the Dance”

Fawn Saicawalo and Eric Moshier Savoy Bar & Grill “Ascension”

1st Place

COPY EDITOR

2nd Place

ART DIRECTOR

1st Place

Charles Guiswite and Alan Sanchez Isleta Resort & Casino “Another Day in Paradise”

Holly Myers‫‏‬

Lincoln Peterkin and Glenroy Heywood Island Grill “Flight to Paradise”

3rd Place

Gilles Desnous and Kristen Galegor Route 66 Casino Hotel “Rising of the Phoenix”

Andrea Clover Chez Dré Bakery and Café “Provocative Plumage”

“Best Tasting Samples” Division

Hotels & Casinos Category

Restaurants & Caterers Category

1st Place

Jasmine Quinsier Here I am getting dolled up back stage to transform into my role in Eve Ensler’s play The Vagina monologues–a big contrast to my ad sales hat!

1st Place

Charles Guiswite and Alan Sanchez Isleta Resort & Casino

2nd Place 3rd Place

SANTA FE

3rd Place

Lianne Aponte 629.6544 Kate Collins 470.1612

Fawn Saicawalo and Eric Moshier Savoy Bar & Grill

Students and Schools Category

Terri Ami and Wilsonya Clay Navajo Technical University “Neon Jungle”

“Top Boutique”

“Best New Artist”

Rebecca Bonsal and Celeste Davis ChocGlitz & Cream

Fawn Saicawalo and Eric Moshier Savoy Bar & Grill “Ascension”

“People’s Choice”

“Best of Show”

Gilles Desnous and Kristen Galegor Route 66 Casino Hotel “Rising of the Phoenix”

Ashley Schutte 504.8130 Cara Tolino Andrea Blan 907.3202

2nd Place

Carletta Becenti and Heather Gruber Navajo Technical University “Jungle Squeeze”

Charity Teague Hyatt Tamaya Resort and Spa “King of the Dance”

Spring is a perfect time for pampering myself at Chez D’Or Salon and Skin Spa!

ALBUQUERQUE

“Most Artistic and Best Tasting” Combined Division 1st Place

AD DESIGN Alex Hanna

2nd Place

Alex Spray-Eich and Troy Loue The Chocolate Cartel

Gilles Desnous and Kristen Galegor Route 66 Casino Hotel

Scott Edwards

ADVERTI S I NG

Rebecca Bonsal and Celeste Davis ChocGlitz & Cream

Charity Teague Hyatt Tamaya Resort and Spa

PREPRESS

Dining in the heavenly clouds blanketing Izanami with dear friends enjoying every delicate and delicious dish.

Springtime selfie

COVER PHOTO Gabriella Marks

WRITERS Emily Beenen Erin Brooks Gordon Bunker Lily Carbone Susan Clough Tom Hill Kelly Koepke Emily Ruch Gail Snyder

Just left ScoJo’s with this awesome piece of Minu Jewelry! Note to self, don’t bite the bracelets to try them on... wait until you buy it!

PHOTOGRAPHERS Joy Godfrey Kitty Leaken Gabriella Marks The New Mexico Museum of Natural History Foundation thanks the many sponsors of this event: KPMG LLP Intel, LithExcel Marketing Services Provider, Wells Fargo Bank of the West, Tucker and Karen Bayless, Bohannan Huston Inc., General Mills, Marketing Solutions, Mercedes-Benz of Albuquerque, Merrill Lynch Bank of America, New Mexico Gas Company, NUSENDA Credit Union, Sandia National Laboratories, Lockheed Martin, Technology Ventures Corporation, Tinnin Enterprises, US Bank Albuquerque The Magazine, All World Travel, Beauchamp Jewelers, Clear Channel Outdoor, Distracted by Décor, Frank Frost Photography, KOB Eyewitness News 4, Local Flavor, Sandia Resort & Casino, Southwest Capital Bank, 99.5 Magic FM, and 770 KKOB News Radio

APRIL 2015

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223 North Guadalupe #442 Santa Fe, NM 87501 Tel: 505.988.7560 | www.localflavormagazine.com Subscriptions $30 per year. Mail check to above address.

© Edible Adventure Co.‘96. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be used without the permission of Edible Adventure Co. localflavor accepts advertisements from advertisers believed to be reputable, but can’t guarantee it. All editorial information is gathered from sources understood to be reliable, but printed without responsibility for erroneous, incorrect, or omitted information.

Try our new local drink list featuring Santa Fe Spirits Hoppy Hour- 1-3 p.m. and Happy Hour- 3-7 p.m. 125 Washington Santa Fe 505.988.4900 HotelChimayo.com

Happy Hour Monday - Friday- 4-7 p.m. With Oyster Bar Tues - Fri See Chef Taka at our Sushi & Raw Bar Tues-Sat- 4-10 .p.m 309 W San Francisco S. Santa Fe 505.995.4530 EldoradoHotel.com

Patio season is almost here! Albuquerque's best patio will be open for seating during the sunny weather! Happy Hour Monday - Thursday 4-7 p.m. Friday 4-6 p.m. Located in Hotel Albuquerque at Old Town 800 Rio Grande Blvd. NW Albuquerque 505.222.8766 HotelAbq.com

F I N D G R E AT S P R I N G VA L U E S AT T H E F O L L O W I N G H E R I TA G E H O T E L S :

HHANDR.COM

Letter LIFT YOUR SPIRITS AT LA POSADA

For spa or Easter brunch reservations, please call 505-986-0000

Spa Treatment Specials Locals receive 20% off all treatments through April 30th Try our Margarita Pedicure – includes an actual Margarita from our bar! Santa Fe’s Best Happy Hour Half off ALL food on the bar menu plus daily drink and featured beer specials Monday–Friday from 4:00 pm–6:00 pm and 9:00 pm–10:00 pm Easter Brunch Buffet Sunday, April 5th - 10:00 am–3:00 pm Adults - $55, Children 12 and Under - $25 330 East Palace Avenue laposadadesantafe.com

Spring has sprung and our patio is now open! See our website for a list of special dinners & reservations.

8917 4th St NW

Albuquerque, NM 87114 8

APRIL 2015

505.503.7124 Farmandtablenm.com

Dinner: Wed-Sat open at 5pm Brunch: sat-sun 9am-2pm

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After a morning of quietly working in my garden, there is a phrase that I love to repeat to myself … “the earth knows my name.” It’s from the title of a favorite book and over the years I’ve made it into a kind of wishful mantra—a reminder of how I ideally want to live my life. I spend far, far more time at my computer than in the garden, but somehow, when we are putting together the Homestead issue and sharing the stories of people who can truly say “the earth knows my name,” I feel quite satisfied to be sowing this little row of words. It was photographer Gabriella Marks who introduced us to Erin and Joel and their children. They are neighbors of Gabriella and she knows their little family and sanctuary well. You can feel her quiet affection for them and her own deep connection to the land through these wonderful photographs. Bringing this story to you has been fun for us all. In the heart of Albuquerque’s South Valley there is another homestead that we fell in love with—this one was settled back in 1848 by a handsome Anglo army officer named James Hubbell and his beautiful young Hispanic bride, Julianna Gutierrez. It became a vital and fascinating part of New Mexico’s colonial history, and today it has been lovingly restored with the leadership of James’ great-great-grandson, Lorenzo Hubbell, and the Open Space initiative of Bernalillo County. It is far more than a historical and cultural site, it is a lively community gathering space, a working organic farm and a vibrant educational center for the county. The homesteading tradition runs deep in this area and the GutierrezHubbell House reminds us that it can also be our future. More stories? Yes, yes—a local vineyard that is gaining national attention, gardening advice from a Santa Fe nursery that is “third generation strong,” recipes to celebrate Earth Day, a foot-stomping dance story and more. And now, back to the beginning. The little homesteader on our cover who so delightfully appears to be watering “Local Flavor” is an image I will always treasure, because in a very real sense he has nurtured us and helped us to grow.

Renaissance Faire 3rd Annual ALBUQUERQUE

ITALIAN • RESTAURANT BAR • FINE DINING • TAKE OUT

New Spring Menu! Osteria releases a new spring menu showcasing mulltiregional classic Italian cuisine by chef Cristian Pontiggia.

Saturday, May 2, 2015

11 a.m. – 7 p.m. • Balloon Museum • Live Equestrian Jousting! • Living History Demonstrations

• The Tavern: 1 – 7 p.m.

Libations, food, and entertainment for the adults 21+ • Royal Feast: a catered meal for kings, queens, and their courts

Make your reservations now for Easter brunch 58 S. Federal Place Santa Fe, NM 505-986-5858 osteriadassisi.com

Buon Appetito!

Presented by the City of Albuquerque and the Society for Creative Anachronism, Barony of al-Barran Learn more at CultureABQ.com or call 311

GOOD FOOD & GOOD DRINKS AT GOOD PRICES ...OPEN LATE! 101 W. Alameda Inside Inn of the Governors Downtown Santa Fe 505-954-0320 • delcharro.com

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

APRIL 2015

Chatter Sunday offers weekly Sunday morning concerts at 10:30 a.m. that also include readings and refreshments. April 19 brings duoW, violinist Arianna Warsaw-Fan and cellist Meta Weiss, two young Julliard graduates who use music videos and other new media to adapt classical music to a modern world. Although classically trained, they also play popular music, but keep each genre intact. These two musicians feel it is part of their generation’s responsibility and challenge to breathe new life into the phenomenal art form that is classical music. A full program calendar can be found at chatterabq. org. Sunday Chatter performances are held in the Kosmos performance space

| Arianna Warsaw-Fan

The Outpost Performance Space has been on fire lately, with a March full of Women and Creativity performances, and an April that is sure to sell out several shows— including the two already sold out shows of the Branford Marsalis Quartet. How about seeing Alice Blumenfeld: Sueños Flamencos on April 4 instead? Originally from Albuquerque, where she began her study of flamenco, Alice Blumenfeld now dances and tours with Flamenco Vivo Carlota Santana and EntreFlamenco, and also choreographs and produces her own work. In 2012, she was awarded a Fulbright Scholarship in dance to further her studies in Seville. The April 4 performance features nationally acclaimed musical accompanists Vicente Griego (cante) and guitarists Calvin Hazen and John Truitt, and intertwines traditional flamenco, jazz and Spanish boleros.

| Alice Blumenfeld

Then be at the Outpost again April 25 for Raquel Z. Rivera & Ojos De Sofia for an evening of original compositions, most of them written in the time-honored décima poetic format and arranged by Puerto

| Raquel Z. Rivera

The Martha Graham Dance Company comes to Popejoy Hall April 25, showcasing the choreographic talents of the distinguished Ms. Graham. Skilled dancers spark with emotion as they express the political, psychological and sexual themes that Martha Graham constantly challenged. The company will perform four pieces that personify Graham’s influential philosophy as a celebration of its 70th anniversary. Tickets at the UNM ticket offices and select Albertsons, online at popejoypresents.com or unmtickets.com, or call 877.664.8661. For kids and their adults, Noah and his ark full of animals are coming to life in a production of Noye’s Fludde (Noah’s Flood) by Benjamin Britten, performed by a large cast of primarily children singers and musicians at First Presbyterian Church, 215 Locust Street NE, on April 19. The public is invited to the hour-long opera. Families are encouraged to attend, as the production will be enjoyable for children (and adults) of all ages. The fully staged opera features a large cast of children and young instrumentalists. The exquisite set depicting Noah’s Ark along with the waves, rainbow, sun and stars and unique Southwest-inspired costumes are courtesy of the Santa Fe Opera. Renowned New Mexico artist and santero, Charlie Carrillo, designed the set and costumes. Tickets at First Presbyterian, 505.764.2900, or at the door starting at 4:30 p.m. the day of the performance. In our March story on Chocolate Fantasy, we had the wrong name of one of the chefs. It is chocolatier Rebecca Bonsal of ChocGlitz & Cream.

SANTA FE

LATE BREAKING AND VERY EXCITING NEWS! The finalists for the James Beard awards have been announced and two New Mexicans are on the short list for this national honor-- Chef Martin Rios of Restaurant Martin in Santa Fe for Best Chef of the Southwest and Ron Cooper of Del Maguey Single Village Mezcal in Ranchos de Taos for Outstanding Spirits APRIL 2015

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Congratulations to Rancho Viejo Village Market on its fifth anniversary this month. The market in the Rancho Viejo subdivision hit the ground running and has seen steady growth. Southsiders appreciate the craft beers, wine and spirits from around the world, as well as fancy foods, specialty cheese, produce and virtually everything anyone could need. Denisio Tisland, beverage manager, writes, “The Market has a specialty wine club with exclusive perks that will showcase some unique and hard to find wines from around the world to accentuate our already popular wine tastings held on Friday evenings, a wine bar where guests can explore and expand their palate, which will house specialty classes on subjects like pairing, etc., and new additions and exciting things happening on the food/grocery side of the store as the year goes on!” Stop in to one of Santa Fe’s best-kept secrets, 55 Canada Del Rancho, Suite F.

Photo: Gabriella Marks

April 8 is National Empanada Day, a day to embrace what many New Mexicans already know. Empanadas are the perfect hand-held delicious treat to eat any time of the day or year! In Albuquerque, the familiar treats are in high demand, according to Marina ArbetmanRabinowitz, Linda Hayon and Ellen Goldstein, who run the catering and takeout business Nada but Empanadas. They offer a variety of savory and sweet empanadas (baked or frozen) including Argentinean beef, Southwest chicken, spinach and mozzarella, apple dulce de leche and more. Nada but Empanadas also offers monthly cooking classes and a dynamite cookbook. The menu (glutenfree, too!) and other information is available at nadabutempanadas.com or by calling 505.503.3228.

at the Factory on 5th, 1715 Fifth Street NW. Doors open at 9:30 a.m. For best seats, come early and enjoy the coffee and camaraderie!

Photo: Ada Fan

ABQ Trolley Co. has another way to see and experience the quirkiness that is Albuquerque. Its new 14 passenger “party bike,” called the Duke City Pedaler, began service last month for the bar and pub-hopping crowd. “It’s like a party on wheels,” says Mike Silva, co-owner of ABQ Trolley Co. with Jesse Herron. “It’s an opportunity for people to get together and have fun in a unique environment.” The leg-powered vehicle offers seating for up to 10 pedaling passengers and four non-pedalers. The two-hour rental is time enough to hit three or four establishments along a predetermined route, running Friday and Saturday nights, with expanded service in the summer. Visit abqtrolley.com for more. Pedal on, dudes!

b y K E L LY K O E P K E

Photo: Luis Pons

ALBUQUERQUE

Professional. Get your tuxes ready, guys, we’re betting on you to bring home the gold.

| Jane Winter of Rancho Viejo Villiage Market

Ristra Restaurant is now under new ownership and has changed its name. The new Radish and Rye is undergoing a remodel with an opening this spring (maybe as early as April). The website (still ristrasantafe.com) says Radish and Rye will focus on farm-inspired cuisine. The new owners are Dru Ruebush, Camille Bremer and master cocktail maker and sommelier Quinn Stephenson, partner in Geronimo and Coyote Café. Stay tuned, we’ll update you when we get more information.

Photo: Gaelen Casey

theBUZZ

Rican guitarist/cuatrista Bryan Vargas and Dominican guitarist Yasser Tejeda. The band will also play classic Latin American boleros featuring the extraordinarily soulful voice of Anabellie Rivera while also offering workshops and artist talks focused on the history, contemporary relevance and future potential of roots and popular genres of the Spanish-speaking Caribbean. The weeklong tour of New Mexico includes dates in Santa Fe (April 26) and workshops at Albuquerque Academy and University of New Mexico. See outpostspace.org for more on all shows.

| Quinn Stephenson

Eldorado’s La Tienda shopping center has a new restaurant now, Oasis Cafe. John and Rebecca Conlon (he of Lamy’s late Legal Tender) feature an ethnic menu (Greek gyros, Italian paninis) and good old American sandwiches and salads, with a kid menu, too. They are open Tuesday through Saturday from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., a sparkling oasis in an area with few options. Welcome to the neighborhood, Oasis Cafe! Congrats to Karen Gardiner, owner of ArtfulTea, on opening a second Santa Fe

| Karen Gardiner of ArtfulTea

Estrella Del Norte Vineyard has released Zozobra Red, in partnership with one of the community’s largest events that funds much of the good work of the Kiwanis Club. You can taste and purchase the wine at the beautiful vineyard estate and winery just 15 minutes north of Santa Fe. Named after Santa Fe’s iconic Zozobra, or Old Man Gloom, this popular wine is

vinted from local grapes and labeled with artwork traditional to the historic Zozobra character with a modern flair. Stock up on this limited supply for your next Zozobra fiesta party, where you can toast your gloom away. Head to estrelladelnortevineyard.com.

Santa Feans appreciate learning more about food, especially when it comes to what our children eat. That’s why seeing the documentary film Lunch Hour is important. April 18 and April 22, join the Santa Fe Farmers Market Institute at the Jean Cocteau Cinema to see this examination of our country’s National School Lunch Program, which exposes children to unhealthy foods at a young age. More information at lunchhourmovie.org and get tickets at 505.466.5528 or jeancocteaucinema.com/ buy-tickets.

Fun stuff happens at the New Mexico History Museum every month, but April has this of special note. On April 8 at 9 a.m., CreativeMornings debuts with Robert Martin, executive and artistic director of the Lensic, a partnership with Albuquerque’s Creative Startups. Each month, alternating between Santa Fe and Albuquerque, CreativeMornings offers casual talks for graphic designers, authors, artists and other creative professionals, focused on various themes. On April 8, enjoy pastries and coffee from Santa Fe Baking Co. and light music by Santa Fe’s The Laser Cats. Do a little creative networking and hear a talk on this month’s global theme, humility, with Martin. These events are free and open to the public. CreativeMornings is a lecture series that takes place over a network of 106 host cities around the world. Talks are recorded and posted online. Learn more at creativemornings.com and watch the Santa Fe and Albuquerque application videos at vimeo. com/118654489 and vimeo.com/120385415.

Whoops. Last month we misplaced Arroyo Vino Restaurant and Wine Shop. The restaurant and shop is not in Aldea, but rather a few miles away at 218 Camino La Tierra. We apologize for the error.

TAOS We hope you raised a toast on March 14 to celebrate Del Maguey Single Village Mezcal’s 20th anniversary. Bartenders, family and friends around the globe were invited to join Ron Cooper in this milestone moment. In 1995, Del Maguey Single Village Mezcal introduced its original two single village expressions (Chichicapa and San Luis Del Rio), named after the villages where they are made. Now, Del Maguey has 18 expressions and produces from 10 different agave varietals. Del Maguey is

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

credited with pioneering the artisanal mezcal category. “Twenty years ago there was nothing in the U.S. mezcal category that connected people in any way to the ancient practices that the indigenous people of Oaxaca have been employing since before the Spanish conquest,” says Cooper. “I wanted to share what I had discovered in Oaxaca—this previously unavailable artisanal mezcal, produced in the original handcrafted way—I had to create a new category, and rely on craft bartenders to help me educate consumers along the way.” Del Maguey produces Single Village Mezcal, a methodology that honors its Zapotec farmer producers and the distinct character and singular purity preserved from village to village. Assuring consistency within each expression, Cooper works with the same producers he did two decades ago. This has led to the great sense of family within the brand’s own team, as well as the international bartender and mixologist communities. Del Maguey was recently ranked by the U.K.-based Academy in its World’s 50 Best Bar Brands Report as the No. 1 top trending brand. Del Maguey is also on the list of semi-finalists for a James Beard Award. What a year! Local Flavor congratulates you! | Ron Cooper of Del Maguey

APRIL 2015

Photo: Del Maguey

Photo: Gabriella Marks

location at 117 Galisteo Street. A grand opening event is planned for May, but until then, you can visit the new store, open seven days a week and boasting double the space of ArtfulTea’s Santa Fe Farmers Market location. Tea lovers will find an expanded selection of luxury loose leaf tea, fine teaware and three different teas brewed daily to sample, all personally selected by Gardiner, who brings 14 years of experience as a tea merchant to the table—or more to the point, the cup. Hours are Monday through Saturday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., and Sunday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Visit artfultea.com.

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Santa Fe University of Art and Design Santa Fe Indian School New Mexico School for the Arts

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NE PA 1614

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WRITTEN BY STUDENTS FROM :

M :00 P T 2 3 A E:

NG T HE T H E A T E R

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505 820 7112

$10 / $5 STUDENTS

Photo: Pat Berrett

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APRIL 2015

D E R T

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| Amapola Gallery, Artist Philip Green

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V. Vaughan’s show would make any museum proud and many of V’s paintings are in museums. Visit Act One Gallery during April for a new show of her works, Welcome the Light. As you peruse her works on line and in the gallery, you note the deep understanding she has of all forms of light. Well known for her deep, dark night scenes, she can paint a bird or a caballero with equal finesse. This is Act One’s first and long-awaited show with Ms. Vaughan, so head to actonegallery.com for details of the show and the April 11 reception.

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Congrats to Magpie, which celebrates its first anniversary and the opening of its new art gallery this month. Located in the beautiful Overland Ranch just three miles north of Taos Plaza, Magpie boasts an impressive collection of over 45 local artists, with jewelry, blown glass, pottery and other gifts, as well as a magnificent showcase of fine art, all made in the Taos area. Artist and owner Georgia Gersh takes special care in selecting the best talent that the area has to offer, specializing in affordable, small art. Go to magpietaos.com, and better yet, stop in and tell them how happy you are to help them celebrate their birthday on April 1 from 5 to 7 p.m. That’s no April Fool’s joke, either!

TAOS

On a sad note, we express our condolences to the family of Margarete Bagshaw, who died last month at age 50. The artist was one of the third generation of female painters in her family. Her mother was Helen Hardin and her grandmother the renowned Santa Clara Pueblo artist Pablita Velarde. Bagshaw made an indelible mark on the New Mexico art scene, and will be missed.

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Amapola Gallery offers light refreshments during this month’s reception on April 12 for the exhibition Crystal Clouds, featuring the work of four artists. The show includes Gloria Casale’s stained, fused and stumped glass; Philip Green’s ceramic and raku clocks; Denise Ballou’s oil paintings; and Debra Montoya’s mosaic art. Amapola Gallery is located at 205 Romero NW. Visit amapolagallery.com for times and complete details.

Santa Fe Women’s Club hosts the April 25 and 26 Spring Contemporary Clay Fair, one of the finest ceramic shows New Mexico has to offer. Featuring 30 outstanding ceramic artists, the fair celebrates the various methods of creation and use of clay throughout history. This juried show features useful, decorative and jewelry pieces from noted ceramic artists like Mike Walsh, Ginny Zipperer, Maggie Beyeler and Todd Volz. Visit contemporaryclayfair. com for times and participating artists.

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InSight New Mexico is proud to present Through Her Eyes, a group exhibition of more than 125 works by 61 women photographers from across the state. The exhibit runs April 5 through 26 at Expo New Mexico. Photography is intrinsically an expression of who we are and how we move through the world. We each experience the world in unique ways and for photographers that is translated, visually, into the kinds of images they make. That is the premise of Through Her Eyes, which showcases a variety of subjects, themes and diverse processes. This is a great opportunity to see the work of some of New Mexico’s top emerging and professional fine art women photographers. The exhibition was juried by a nationally recognized panel of jurors, whose work will also be on display and available for purchase. Visit insight-nm.com.

Somewhere between abstraction and realism lies the work of Sammy Peters and Connie Connally, each remarkable for their unique practice of expressive brushwork, sweeping gestural marks and animated cadence. Fusion, which runs April 3 through May 3, at LewAllen Galleries at the Railyard, is a dramatic interplay of geometric and gestural abstraction that juxtaposes the signature-muted hues and jazzy rhythms of Peters’ introspective canvases with Connally’s poetic multi-layered surfaces suffused with organic color and brushwork. With a career spanning nearly 50 years, Peters skillfully composes complex canvasses with a powerful and sensuous combination of brushwork, iterative marks, drips and mixed-media collage. Organic color and calligraphic brushstrokes combine to serve as imprints of Connally’s profound passion for nature in graceful canvasses of liminal elegance, with imagery teetering between representational reference and powerful abstraction. Rich, multi-layered surfaces of sun-drenched color morph, coalesce and juxtapose in quietly energetic rhythms that evoke the sense of being in a place of nature’s beauty. Check lewallengalleries.com.

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Three women sculptors strut their stuff at the newly expanded Page Coleman Gallery in an exhibition titled The Grand Expand. Ali Gallo creates powder coated steel abstractions that resemble ribbons blowing in the wind. Gwyn Metz recomposes disparate debris into dysfunctional objects such as fossil-free vehicles and doll-like characters. Maria Ross works wonders with wire and paint to create airy, ghostlike forms that have both organic and architectural references. The show runs April 11 through June 27, with a reception Friday April 10 from 5:30 to 8 p.m. Page Coleman | Loop De Loop In Mustard, Ali Gallo Gallery is at 6320-B Linn Avenue NE, and is open Saturdays 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. or by appointment. Visit pagecoleman.com.

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ALBUQUERQUE

We’re eagerly welcoming spring to the City Different, and the influx of arts, music and other events. For instance, from April 3 through 29, the exhibition An Evening of Dance and Music In Art at Gallery 901, features internationally acclaimed artist and tango dancer Willow Bader. For this show, Bader focuses on capturing the movement of tango dancing and Argentine tango music. She will also be teaching two advanced encaustic workshops April 4 and 5. For more, call 505.780.8390 or visit gallery901.org.

THURS

the

ART BUZZ

SANTA FE

This project is supported in part by New Mexico Arts, a division of the Department of Cultural Affairs, and by the National Endowment for the Arts

South ValleyTreasure stor y by EMILY BEENEN

photos by JOY GODFREY

Bernalillo County Parks and Recreation owns and manages eleven very unique properties under its Open Space initiative. What began as a grassroots effort by numerous local groups was confirmed by a 1998 referendum that provided for these undeveloped lands to remain so for the benefit and enjoyment of the people. They have been proudly preserved as Bernalillo County’s environmental, historical and cultural treasures. One such jewel is the Gutierrez-Hubbell House History and Cultural Center in the heart of the South Valley.

Lorenzo Hubbell and Asha Baker

here to begin to tell the rich, complex story of this extraordinary house? I’ll go back to the beginning, as told to me by Lawrence “Lorenzo” Hubbell (great-great-grandson of James Hubbell), Flora Sanchez (chair of the board of directors for the Gutierrez-Hubbell House Alliance) and Asha Baker (current manager of the GHH).

Juliana Gutierrez, the granddaughter of New Mexico territorial governor Francisco Javier Chavez, was 14 years old in 1846 when she met James Lawrence Hubbell, a Yale graduate, captain in the U.S. Army and the officer in charge of the Santa Fe Trail. Despite being an Anglo from Connecticut, he had developed a reputation, as Flora tells it, as “a good guy … people liked him and he was respected.” Juliana and James’ marriage was arranged—a beneficial political, social and economic alliance for both parties—and commenced in 1848. The 7-room, adobe house, (eventually expanded to a many-roomed 5,700 square foot home) was given to them as a wedding gift. Despite her youth, Juliana was intelligent and savvy, and in addition to raising 12 children in that house, she served as a community matriarch and was often referred to as Mi Tia or La Julianita (“auntie” or “little mom”) by those in the surrounding area who would come to the house seeking everything from advice to inoculations. James, who became known as a Santiago in acknowledgement of his new home and family, was sheriff of Valencia County, but as his success grew as a merchant and trader, much of the managing of the family’s extensive lands from the Pajarito Land Grant was left to Juliana and the Gutierrez family.

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

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South Valley

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Treasure

| Los Padillas Community Center Preschool kids caring for their apricot tree

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Get your hands T

he degree to which we’re willing to care for something is based in the value we see in it. So it seems that solutions to the environmental troubles we face lie partly in reevaluating our relationship with nature. There is perhaps no better way of experiencing our place in this remarkable web of life called Earth than tending a small piece of it, in planting a garden. Get your hands in the dirt, have some successes, some failures, some surprises. Figure out what works. Experience directly what nature is up to, both that which is around us and in us. I recently met with Bob Pennington, who with his wife Jeni owns Agua Fria Nursery in Santa Fe. “Dad and I bought it in 1975,” says Bob, a sturdy guy with a bushy beard whose work suit is a pair of denim bib overalls. “It had been a nursery of one sort or another since the mid-50s. Started out the whole barrio down there was a truck farm. They grew vegetables which supplied every grocery store in Santa Fe.” Dwindling water supplies, however, triggered a shift to growing ornamentals. Bob continues, “We had absolutely zero idea of what we were doing or we probably would have never done it.” I tell Bob I know a little about this and we share a laugh. “We learned everything by the seat of our pants and fly by night. And I think we did pretty well.” The nursery is family owned and operated. “It’s family, absolutely,” says Bob, smiling. “It’s third generation strong.” We start talking about water and soil conservation and I quickly see that, for Bob, any one aspect of gardening is connected to every other. “Right now we are in a dry cycle and it appears that it’s been going on since some time in the late 1990s with one or two wet years in between. It may go on for a while,” says Bob, “so you learn how to do better with less water.” He says, “In theory I suppose the most efficient way to water is the automated micro-irrigation system, but I really hate it. A drip system is Murphy’s Law to the extreme.” Bob laughs. “And it will go wrong when … your installer is on vacation. The other part is, if you’re relying on an irrigation system, you’re not out there looking at the garden as often.” The times I’ve had a garden, taking a few moments to quietly stand in it and water it has been … heavenly! “If you have to go out and physically water,” Bob continues, “you’re monitoring the plant health on a routine basis and you will see a problem before it becomes a serious issue. I really much prefer going out there with a hose and watering my garden. Now I’m looking at it on a daily basis.”

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in the dirt story by GORDON BUNKER

Bob easily segues into soil. “The more you improve the quality of your soil, increase the organic content, the soil itself will make better use of the water you have.” He holds out a hand and cups his palm. His face lights up. “Soil is the key … a whole secret world that most of us have no idea what’s going on. A single handful of soil can contain billions of organisms. If you stretched out all the fungi in a straight line, it’d go for miles.” Indeed, it is remarkable. Toward improving soil quality Bob says, “The smartest single way to do that is create your own compost. You’re including stuff from seaside, mountains and all over the world. If you buy a bag of compost it’s mostly going to be things like manure from one feed lot, fed from one lot of hay from one field. You don’t get anywhere near the plethora of micro-nutrients, micro-flora and fauna, that you’ll get making your own.” The state of bees, and pollinators in general, is a topic of much concern. “Plant flowers!” says Bob. “A lot of variety, and avoid real frou-frou things where bees can’t even find the center of the flower. The honey bee is the one that gets the majority of the press. But there’s a whole other group of bees which is much more complex, which goes from sweat bees and little tiny things on one end of the line to bumble bees on the other. And we’re losing them as well, and that’s primarily loss of habitat. Most of them actually live in the ground so they have to have bare earth to nest in. So when you pave everything, or cover everything with weed barrier … Dirt! They need dirt!” Bob points out Mason bees are particularly efficient pollinators. “You can actually put up a bee house for them,” he says, “and if you build it, they will come. They need native wild flowers, and they need habitat.” In answer to industrial agriculture’s tendency toward creating monocultures, home gardeners can play a potentially valuable role by growing heritage varieties. “Tomatoes are an area which is important, people love these things because they taste good,” says Bob. Also “land race chile, like Chimayo chile ... grown for hundreds of years right up the road. You pick and choose what you want for why you want them and that’s probably more important than just growing Continued on pg. 20

Local Nurseries In Albuquerque:

In Santa Fe:

In Taos:

Alameda Greenhouse, 9515 1/2 4th St. NW, 505.898.3562. Owner and master grower Steve Skinner has been in business almost 40 years, establishing the first greenhouse in Albuquerque to grow tomatoes hydroponically.

Agua Fria Nursery, 1409 Agua Fria St., 505.983.4831, aguafrianurserynm.com. Forty years experience. “We speak plant!”

Petree’s Nursery & Greenhouses, 25 Petree Ln., 575-758.3021, facebook.com/pages/Petree-Nurseryand-Greenhouses. On the leading edge of the green industry in Taos, it’s been in business since Superbowl 29.

Great Outdoors Nursery, 10408 2nd Street, NW, 505.890.5311. greatoutdoorsabq.com. A distinctive native plant nursery and botanical garden with a fine selection of plants, trees and shrubs, both xeric and adaptable. Helen’s Native Plants, 9121 4th St. NW, 505.792.4344. facebook.com/pages/HelensNative-Plants Helen’s specializes in exotic, rare plants straight from the desert, since 1980. Jericho Nursery, 101 Alameda Blvd. NW, 505.899.7555. jerichonursery.com. “Not all of my working life … ALL of my life has been in the industry,” says Rick Hobson, owner. Osuna Nursery, 501 Osuna Rd. NE, 505.345.6644. osunanursery.com. Since 1980, Osuna Nursery has fostered an appreciation of nature and earth and has been dedicated to preserving and protecting the environment. Rehm’s Nursery & Garden Center, 5801 Lomas Blvd. NE, 505.266.5978. rehmsnurserynm.com. Rehm’s, also known as “the purple greenhouse,” has been in business 75 years.

New Earth Orchids, 6003 Jaguar Drive, 505.983.1025, newearthorchids.com. Ron and Cynthia Midgett bring perhaps the most exotic of flowers to the desert, with 40 years experience growing orchids. Newman’s Nursery, 7501 Cerrillos Rd., 505.471.8642,mnewmansnursery.com. A full service nursery in Santa Fe for 36 years. Payne’s Nursery & Greenhouses, 715 St. Michael’s Dr., 505.988.9626 paynes. com. The Payne family has been in the nursery business since 1954, with two nursery locations and a separate organic soil yard. Plants of the Southwest, 3095 Agua Fria Rt., 505.438.8888, plantsofthesouthwest. com. With over 400 varieties of seeds in stock, “it’s fun to get a wild hair and just scatter mixes at random .”

River’s Source Botanicals, 730A Camino Del Medio, 575.779.1460, riverssourcebotanicals.com. Offering rare, hard to find botanical herbs, natural extracts, medicinal herb seeds and a variety of cactus cuttings since 1993.

If we inadvertently missed your favorite local nursery, please send the contact information to us and we will post it on our website.

Santa Fe Tree Farm, 1749 San Ysidro Crossing, 505.984.2888, santafetree.com. Santa Fe Tree Farm specializes in the creation and development of sustainable landscapes, with an inventory of mature trees.

vectorstock | pimonova

Rio Valley Greenhouses, 2000 Harzman Rd. SW, 505.350.6414 , facebook.com/ RioValleyGreenhouses. Established in 1952, Rio’s plant nursery grows all its own plants locally.

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

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Plant a Row

heirlooms.” Some of the reasons for growing heirlooms can become pretty esoteric. “You go back to wild lettuce, you couldn’t eat it, it’s bitter, it’s covered with prickles,” says Bob. But he points out, “Probably the most important reason of all for growing heirlooms is you’re preserving germplasm. If you preserve the old plants [by growing them], they have traits, and it may turn out somewhere down the line the hybrid may have a disease susceptibility or a lack of a certain nutrient that existed in the old heirloom. Whether you breed that back in by using the original blood lines or however, there is a definite survival value in keeping some of these old bloodlines around. If we do away with all the heirlooms then we would probably lose the potential to do those things.” I mention I’ve seen a number of raised beds in town. “They are a phenomena, it’s happening. It’s going crazy!” he says. “It is a much more controlled environment and if you learn how to use it you really get dramatically increased yields. Higher yields in smaller spaces! You see restaurants in town that have huge raised beds and they’re growing their own herbs and whatnot. They’re now in like 18 schools in Santa Fe. Kids are learning where their food comes from, and what food really is.” I point out the act of going to the store and putting a tomato in a plastic bag, paying for it and going home isolates us from the whole process of how that tomato came to be. Raised beds are bringing gardening to more people and connecting them to nature. “That’s half of what it’s all about,” says Bob. He muses on this for a moment, laughs, and to send his point home, says, “I’ve heard people say, ‘Can’t Albertson’s just make more lettuce?’ Well, no, you don’t make lettuce.” Whether we see it or not, we’re right in the thick of the natural world, a world that provides handsomely for us and is both delicate and robust. But without pollinators visiting those big beautiful squash blossoms? No squash. Soil without moisture, without compost? No soil. Plant a garden. The value of what we have going for us will become abundantly clear.

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This spring, plant an extra row in your garden for those who are hungry. Donate your bounty to The Food Depot!

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A LifeHome Grown story by GAIL SNYDER

photos by GABRIELLA MARKS

’ve been having the best time recently, scrolling through Erin O’Neill’s blog, Seeds & Stones, A Life Home Grown, which chronicles her family’s homesteading experiences in Nambé. Erin and her husband, Joel Glanzberg, make living sustainably look not only feasible for some of us not-so-greenthumbed DIY illiterates, but even doable—and fun! Because the real bottom line to homesteading, it turns out, is not memorizing permaculture techniques or teaching yourself construction and engineering basics. It’s gleaning! Which is just a more polite way of saying scavenging. And not only for materials— wood, appliances, tools, mulching—but ideas. Other people’s ideas. Things they’ve already tried out themselves, so they know they work and they can warn you of how to avoid their own mistakes. That’s what’s so much fun about reading Erin’s blog entries. She narrates their homesteading experiences, warts and all. Between the two of them, she and Joel have tons of experience, Erin as a community advocate, crafter and former farming intern, Joel as a longtime permaculture practitioner and teacher who also has extensive construction expertise. They live in what was originally the schoolhouse for the Nambé and Pojoaque areas in the early 1900s, a sturdy adobe core out of which they’ve built, by hand, several other rooms plus a greenhouse on a fifth of an acre, along a narrow lane. The neighboring house, formerly the mayor’s hacienda, dates back 300 years. There are irrigation ditches, the soil has been cultivated and built up for centuries and the feeling there is timeless, a piece of vital New Mexico history where the land is still farmed today. With no acequia rights and a minimal yard for planting, (only about 1,200 + square feet total) this property may seem a dubious choice for growing your own food. But, says Erin, “I eke out as much of it as possible.” Joel, who initially bought the property, began planting dwarf fruit trees; now they’ve got 30. With turkeys and 13 chickens, they’re able to produce hundreds of pounds of food here. Joel adds, however, “It’s fulltime-plus—the work never ends. We’re very humbled and very much appreciative.” Both Erin and Joel teach; he also travels as part of his work. They coordinate between them to be at-home parents to almostfour-year-old Jaengus and newborn Eva. By doubling their mortgage payments each month, they managed to pay the house off in 10 years. “We heat with wood,” says Joel. “We have solar windows, an insulated greenhouse,” and the walls are all adobe. Still, being time-rich and cash-poor always challenges them; they’re constantly exploring the question, “How can we provide for ourselves and also spend less?” After recently giving birth to Eva, Erin says that, with no maternity leave from her job teaching gardening at the Santa Fe Community College, “I had to get creative. I’m a contractor and thus have no benefits. I looked to a friend, another mom and contractor

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trying to bring the pieces of farm, home, family and money together. She’s subbing for me. It takes thinking outside the box and giving up some of the basics that other folks take for granted, but we get a different package of benefits that are valuable unto themselves—like flexibility and freedom.” Most of her close friends in and around Santa Fe, she continues, have found ways to create productive homesteads. “Many have chickens who produce eggs, eat waste and produce compost. Many have gardens, goats and bees. We all trade among ourselves for these goods. I feel the spirit of the modern homesteading movement is about exchange, not isolation. We’ve discovered that we can’t all do everything ourselves, nor should we. Not only is it exhausting but it’s unsustainable for our spirits. One of the unseen byproducts of these exchanges is community—people with skills we can call on, people who are invested in our lives. I think in this modern day society that this is where we’re most impoverished. Who can we call when we get sick, have a baby or need to catch the goat who got lost in Casa Solana?” Erin learned a powerful lesson with Jaengus, “mostly through my recovery from the shocking isolation motherhood brought me.” So this time around, for Eva’s baby shower, she and her friends knit a patchwork quilt. “It required lots of individual effort and many collective gatherings to complete it,” Erin says, “but it is truly a work of art, to me symbolizing that only our individual efforts woven together into a whole will warm us through the night.” Joel describes this as building community versus constructing an “ecofortress.” “We need to be broadening our perspective,” he says, “of what is sustainability, what is homesteading, by asking ourselves, ‘What really feeds us, emotionally and spiritually, too, not necessarily just literally?’ And not take on more than what’s fun.” Pointing to their modest-sized table, he adds, “Start with a garden this size. If you’re successful with it, next year double it.” Whatever you’re doing in this experiment of living more sustainably, he advises, “start small, don’t be overzealous and go little by little so you don’t make big mistakes.” Erin and Joel’s perspective is a far cry from the one shared by many bloggers on the subject of homesteading. A few rules from an online list for modern homesteading include: grow at least 50 percent of your food, organically, with visually appealing landscaping; learn to do home and vehicle maintenance, repairs and basic construction; work at home. This school of thought encourages what Erin calls the “I’m not cool enough to be a homesteader” mentality. Erin, for instance, could never just work at home. Raised a Quaker, she volunteered as a teenager in soup kitchens and worked with orphans. Do what you’re really good at is what she learned, “whatever it is, and contribute to making society more balanced and equitable.” Currently, Erin volunteers part-time with the SFPS Adalante Program, working with homeless immigrant mothers transitioning to a new life. Because they can’t apply for regular jobs, she teaches them how to sew, giving them projects like making shopping bags from free burlap coffee sacks to sell in Santa Fe to support the women’s efforts at becoming sustainable themselves. “We want our kids to grow up finding their own way,” says Erin. “At the college, I work with a vast array of people so I see the strength of diversity and cross-pollination.” The young students, she says, are yearning to find | Joel Glanzberg useful work. Most of them have grown up without being taught any skills. Most, adds Joel, don’t know how to work with their hands. So making sure A Taste of Life in New Mexico

| Erin O’Neill

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that their own two kids not only have skills but also the experience of being engaged in something meaningful is important. Jaengus wakes up every morning with the same question: “What are we going to do today?” The answer the day I was there was bake a cake. He said, “Good! I’ll get my apron!” Jaengus helped in all stages of this applesauce cake’s creation: picking the apples from a family friend’s orchard in Velarde, making the applesauce, and now, sitting beside the mixer on the counter, helping measure the cake’s ingredients, his eyes shining (and, when the rest of us were focused elsewhere, dipping his finger into the bowl). Because he’s included in all the family’s activities, he has a work coat (repurposed by Erin from one that had been Joel’s), kid-sized kneepads, shovel, rake and wheelbarrow, plus a wooden chainsaw, the toy he asked for this past Christmas. He’s a good mushroom hunter, has an amazing attention span, loves pueblo dances and having books read to him and is learning to play the fiddle on his Fridays with Grandpa, who lives two miles down the road. Not only do they want Jaengus and Eva to be DIYers but also DIT-ers (Do It Together). In her blog entry “Making a Baby Swing,” Erin describes how, during their search through catalogs, they found lots of swings (“all kind of shockingly expensive”), got into a fun conversation about design and technique, craftsmanship and quality, “and, of course, our shared love of the homemade.” So they figured out how to design the one they liked best, then “we rummaged around in our stashes” looking for the necessary materials. “It started with an old pair of Mountain Khakis, really nice sturdy work pants, worn, loved and finally ripped at the knee. I stashed them in the sewing box to fix or transform someday and that day was today.” She describes turning them into “a basic bucket seat with sleeves for dowels to slip into” (drilled, cut and sanded by Joel) “so the swing would have a skeleton to hang from,” about four feet above their front porch. Then using an old climbing rope, Joel hung the swing from a carabiner and big eye bolt in the viga. There are photos of baby Jaengus, bald back then, throughout the entry, as well as one of Jaengus and Dad demoing the finished product. The future for homesteading, Joel and Erin agree, is as wide as the human imagination. Don’t be intimidated, Joel says. He recounts asking an elder how to make a favorite recipe. “There is no recipe,” the woman said. “You don’t measure—you just feel it!” If growing your own food feels right, Erin adds, do it. If not, cultivate some other sustainable interest and “save the water for the farmers!” Erin’s blog can be found at seedsandstones. wordpress.com. Joel’s website is patternmind.org.

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

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story by TOM HILL and SUSAN CLOUGH photos compliments of Black Mesa Winery

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A Taste of Life in New Mexico

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The Ingredients of story by ERIN BROOKS

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y favorite breakfast in town is served on a simple diner-style plate, with paper napkins and no-fuss silverware. It comes with coffee served in a chunky white mug and ice water in a plastic cup. The green chile that smothers my eggs and the crispy potatoes served on the side are delicious, but that’s only part of why I keep returning. When I walk into the Pantry Restaurant, the servers and bussers and host smile and say hello—they know me by name. They know my eccentric order by heart (breakfast burrito with egg whites, vegetarian sausage, fresh vegetables, potatoes and an extra side of green) and what I want to drink. They ask about my family. I feel welcomed and appreciated and I’ll go back every week instead of choosing someplace new, just for this experience.

“The food has to be good, but the service has to be better.” Luis Lozoya, The Pantry

When it comes to choosing a restaurant, good food is important but good service is arguably just as imperative. Poor service can keep you from visiting a restaurant again, while great service and great servers will keep you coming back. But what are the critical ingredients for great service? As someone who’s worked on the other side of the table, from server to bartender to manager, I decided to ask colleagues from some of my favorite local restaurants to talk about what they think defines great service and what Santa Fe restaurant staff can do to foster great experiences for their guests. During a busy Friday night or packed Sunday brunch at any restaurant in town, you’ve probably noticed the bussers and servers hustling through the dining room, on a sort of racetrack from the kitchen through the tables and back. A well-run restaurant is like a well-oiled machine and there’s a kind of dance between the employees as they work. This is what Luis Lozoya calls “the system.” Originally from Chihuahua, Mexico, Luis began working as a server at the Pantry 12 years ago and is one of the most recognizable faces of the restaurant. At the Pantry, he says, everyone works as a team. The framework of service is a kind of cross training, where everyone knows how to do everything, so nothing falls through the cracks. “You have to have a good team,” he says, “and you have to know the system. We do everything here. If there’s food to run, you run the food, whether you’re a server or a busser. If you see a table that’s dirty, you clean the table.” He points out that Stan, the owner of the Pantry, and his son Michael, who currently runs the restaurant, are there working just as hard as the rest of the staff, wiping tables and running food and filling up drinks. “The food has to be good,” Luis emphasizes, “but the service has to be better.” Owners and managers who aren’t afraid to get their hands dirty are huge contributors to a restaurant’s great service and success. When I arrived at the Plaza Cafe downtown to talk about service, Jared Garcia, the manager and son of owner Daniel Razatos, was crisscrossing the floor, darting from table to table to speak with customers and running credit cards. “We all roll up our sleeves,” he said as we sat at the counter. “My father

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GREAT SERVICE managers, feel about their jobs. Some of the most hospitable people still busses tables, runs food, serves tables, takes back the bus tubs. in the business are those who choose to work in restaurants as a We’re a big team and we treat it like a big machine and we’re all career and are passionate about the work they do. I ask Luis at the working together. It’s very important to do that.” Ester Najarro has Pantry why he loves being a server. “When you’re a server you know worked at the Plaza Cafe for 32 years, after coming to the U.S. from lots of people,” he explains. “There are people who come back every Guatemala. She points out that a good manager also knows how year, they ask about my family and they remember me. If you do this to communicate with customers and is always present on the floor. just for the money, it doesn’t work. It’s got to be your passion.” Ester “A good manager walks around the tables, asking how customers at the Plaza Cafe agrees. When I ask what her favorite part of the job are enjoying their meals,” she says. “They ask visitors where they’re is, she doesn’t hesitate. “My customers. I have customers from all over from, what they’re doing in Santa Fe. A good server should also the U.S. I love my customers.” communicate well with customers in this way.” Matt Reynolds has worked at La Casa Sena for 15 years. He’s Communicating well with customers, working as a team and been a busser, a food runner, even knowledge of the menu a head server, a bartender items and wine list are all and is currently managing important aspects of service. the restaurant. He considers But great service goes beyond working in the restaurant these technical aspects, as my business a career, but points colleague Jay Hayden pointed out that these days, there out while we discussed the are a lot of people in the concept of excellent service. Jay Hayden, Geronimo and La Boca business who are just there Jay bartended for nearly for a quick buck. “There 20 years before landing at used to be more full-time Geronimo restaurant, where workers,” he says. “Now, a lot of people have second jobs or they’re he’s worked for 16 years, and La Boca, where he’s worked for seven going to school for something else. Being in the restaurant isn’t years. If anyone knows great service, it’s Jay. He reminded me of the their major focus.” Finding a restaurant with servers like Luis or difference between technical service and hospitality, a distinction Ester, who have passion for what they do and show us the meaning made by Danny Meyer, founder of Union Square Cafe, Gramercy of hospitality, is something special. “In a restaurant like the Plaza Tavern and Eleven Madison Park. Meyer says that service should Cafe, you can be a career server,” Jared says. “It’s not just a cafe, it’s be divided between the technical and the hospitable. Water glasses something bigger than that. People keep coming in from all over the should remain full and food should arrive on time, but a server world. That’s something you can have pride in.” must also make the guest feel welcome and at home. As a server at two successful restaurants, Jay says that a staff ’s Jay believes the concept of hospitality applies no matter the attitude definitely contributes to a guest’s sense of hospitality. “I’m style of service, whether it’s fine dining or a casual diner setting. happy to be there,” he says, “and that translates out onto the floor. “It doesn’t matter the level of service. The principles are the same. If you’ve got a happy staff and people are glad to be there, they’ll Even in different styles of dining, I’ve got to be spot on with service bring that attitude to the table.” He explains that dining culture has but I’ve also got to try to make that connection with customers.” changed. These days, servers and managers aren’t just there to make Hospitality can be what separates an average dining experience from sure your meal is delivered on time. People like Jay, Luis and Ester a fantastic one, and what makes you choose to go to one restaurant are the heart and soul of a restaurant and they have the potential to over another. Jay emphasizes that people have an endless number of deliver a warmth and sense of welcome that will bring you back again choices when it comes to dining. “People can choose a multitude of and again. “You’re not just a waiter or waitress anymore,” Jay says. restaurants. How do you get them to choose you?” Jared at the Plaza “You’re the host or hostess of the party.” Cafe echoes this sentiment: “I explain to the staff that people choose us. They’re not only spending their money but they’re spending Erin Brooks is a certified sommelier and the wine buyer at Cafe their time here and we want them to enjoy every minute.” Pasqual’s. In addition to food and wine writing, she is a wine Hospitality is making customers feel welcomed and appreciated, educator and sommelier for private clients. She is currently hard at not just keeping their water glasses full and the table clear. Jay says, work preparing for higher-level sommelier exams through the Court “I want to figure out how to make it special so their experience of Master Sommeliers and the Wine & Spirit Education Trust. Visit is memorable.” Hospitality is all about how the customer feels, her blog at brooksonwine.com. but it’s directly linked to how the restaurant staff, from bussers to

“Customer loyalty comes from making guests feel special.”

“I explain to the staff that people choose us. They’re not only spending their money but they’re spending their time here and we want them to enjoy every minute.” Jared Garcia, Plaza Cafe A Taste of Life in New Mexico

APRIL 2015

Grounded stor y by EMILY RUCH photos by KITTY LEAKEN

inTradition O

dd Fellows Hall, in Santa Fe, is a modest building, easy to overlook, but twice a month it comes vibrantly alive, pulsing with the piquant tunes of an old time band and the rhythmic stomping of 70 pairs of feet. An occasional hoot punctuates the pattern of the dance while everyone holds hands and moves together to the music. “Gents! Allemande left,” shouts the caller.

| Stacey and Jim

APRIL 2015

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“Neighbors, gypsy and swing!” A flurry of colorful, spinny skirts bursts into motion as a roomful of smiling couples swing and twirl themselves silly. This is a typical contra dancing community. Happy, healthy, and—especially in summertime— hot! Not long into a dance, the doors are thrown open to cool off the radiant, flush-faced dancers, and life spills out into the night. About a year ago, a shy young woman found the courage to walk inside and quickly fell in love. That woman was me. I never thought I would consider myself a dancer. I’ve never felt graceful, coordinated or confident on the dance floor, but contra dancing changed that forever. Now I can’t imagine my life without dancing––it nourishes my whole being––and my story isn’t unusual. “If you put club music on and expect me to move, it takes a lot of nerve for me to do something with my body,” says Erik Erhardt, president of the New Mexico Folk Music and Dance Society (FolkMADS). Contra gives us both a way to dance. “There’s this unity—I no longer feel weird and alone in my body,” he says. “Everyone’s dancing the same thing together, so there’s a oneness. And my experience of that oneness is that it creates community.” I vividly recall the moment when I began thinking of this as my community: the first time I pinned on my sparkly name tag. In a reassuring way that felt both welcoming and official, it seemed to commemorate a rite of passage—I was no longer an outsider. The pinning took place at FolkMADness, our annual May dance camp, where I met many new friends like Nate Puffer. Nate is an old time musician who used to call dances in Taos. “This sort of dance and music community connects people with lives that otherwise don’t interact,” he says. “You can’t do it on your own, and that makes it feel more holistic and rooted and not frivolous but actually really important.” Because we’re not just dancing

and making music. We’re cultivating a world that reflects the way we want to live and raise our families. We all make the dances happen by working together—dancers, callers, musicians, sound technicians and many other volunteers. Bringing a dance to fruition requires a community effort, and this strong sense of community distinguishes contra from most other forms of social dance. “It’s not like swing,” says Erik, “where your attention is not on the whole floor as one but as couples doing your own individual thing, maybe somewhat in competition with the people around you. Like, ‘Can I have more attitude and flair than my neighbors?’ There isn’t a performance element in contra.” Connection is central to contra dancing, and showing off undermines that connection. In this respect, contra is similar to the old time music we favor in New Mexico. “The music evolved in the Appalachians among the isolated rural communities,” says old time musician and former FolkMADS president Marj Mullany. “Old time is traditional. It’s different from bluegrass because bluegrass is modern, all about showmanship and hotdogging and taking solos.” Old time is about making music by coming together, like the weekly Old Time Abq Jam at Tractor Brewing where Marj regularly plays with a circle of fellow musicians. “It’s not about impressing each other,” she says. “You sit down, you play the tune until you get tired of it, and then you play a different tune.” Likewise, in contra we dance a pattern until we get tired of it, and then we dance a new pattern. These intricate patterns resemble the old time tunes that accompany them by interlacing an infinite variety of relatively simple moves to create a richly textured dance. Square dancing and contra dancing share many basic moves, but unlike squares, contras are danced in long lines, which allows everyone to dance with everyone else during every dance. The dance weaves people together on the floor as couples progress up and down the lines, dancing the patterns with new pairs of neighbors along the way. Erik calls this “geometry in motion.” Contra is named for its lines in which partners stand contra, or opposite, one other. “Historically,” he says, “the dances we do evolved from seventeenth century English country dancing —what we see in a Jane Austen movie.” Many dancers feel a palpable connection with their cultural heritage by participating in this deeply rooted tradition. Dancers know which patterns to dance because a caller “calls” the moves. Nate and Erik each started calling as a way to support the community. Nate got involved with contra because he wanted to play old time music. When the community needed dancers, he started dancing. The same thing happened with calling. “In Taos at the time, the dance group could no longer afford to hire out-of-town callers,” he says. So they applied for a grant to have an experienced caller come and teach a workshop. Three of the six who attended the workshop became regular callers. “That grant was tremendously valuable for the dance scene,” says Nate. “Having local callers to call the dances as opposed to hiring outside callers got us through that tight period.” Erik began calling in Albuquerque six years ago. “As a person in his 30s, I realized, ‘At this point I have a desire

| The Chiletones

| Tasha and Erik

| Annie and Ken

| Ben and Emily

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

APRIL 2015

Contra dancing is held in Albuquerque (1st and 3rd Saturdays of the month), Santa Fe (2nd and 4th Saturdays) and Taos (3rdSaturdays). English country dancing is held in Albuquerque (2nd Sundays). The Old Time Abq Jam is held in Albuquerque (Mondays). Public megaband rehearsals are held in Santa Fe (1st and 3rd Wednesdays). Dance camp is held in Socorro (Memorial Day Weekend). Visit folkmads.org for more information.

APRIL 2015

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| Terra and Erik 34

and 103.7 Albuquerque

AY FRID

to contribute in a way that I didn’t care about when I was in my 20s,’” he says. Recognizing that this is a volunteer-based community that only exists because people choose to get involved, Erik chose to become more of a leader by learning to call. “That’s my way of making the community sustainable.” When he was approached by an aspiring caller, Erik created the New Mexico Callers Collective. “I decided it doesn’t make sense to just teach one person, so let’s make a group, have this be a community thing, and together we’ll all learn how to call.” Marj has been calling since 1995 and helps out as a mentor. Although she’s not a caller, Stacey Chan regularly attends collective meetings. Stacey is a member of the FolkMADS board who is responsible for booking callers and bands. She supports the growing trend of genderfree dancing. When she met her fiancé, Ben Werner, he was wearing a skirt. “I had never encountered that before,” she says. “So I asked him, ‘Why are you wearing a skirt?’ He responded by saying, ‘Because it’s fun to twirl,’ and then proceeded to actually twirl. And it dawned on me—that’s why I wear a skirt, so why can’t anyone wear a skirt?” Stacey works in a male-dominant industry and appreciates the contra community’s openness to gender-free, nontraditional dance roles. Women, myself included, often dance the “gent” role and men regularly dance as “ladies.” Switching back and forth keeps the dance more interesting. I think gender-free dancing will contribute to the community’s sustainability in the long run because it appeals to younger dancers. Erik, Stacey, Ben and I are all actively involved in establishing regular dances at UNM with the hope of building a more diverse, intergenerational dance community. Decades ago, contra was primarily a young people’s dance––in many places it still is––but our demographic has aged—particularly in New Mexico. “When I was in school in the northeast, there was a well-established and sustaining college dance being done by the students,” says Stacey. “Having something like that is what I envision for the colleges here.” The UNM dances haven’t gained enough momentum to fully support themselves yet, but we recognize those dances as an investment in the future of our community. We’re planting the seeds that will sustain us for generations.

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APRIL 2015

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T O M A S I TA’ S George Gundrey the owner of Tomasita’s, one of Santa Fe’s favorite spots for authentic New Mexican cuisine, is wholeheartedly committed to solar energy. In March 2014, the family-owned restaurant added high efficiency solar panels in its parking lot in order to reduce its carbon footprint. Renewable energy efforts such as this help lower the amount of toxic chemical emissions, resulting in cleaner air and a healthier Mother Earth.

BLUE CORN POSOLE STEW Serves 8-10

Posole (makes 4 quarts): 2 pounds blue corn 3-4 quarts water 2 ½ Tablespoons calcium hydroxide (usually available at Mexican specialty stores) Stew: 1 quart of prepared posole 1 pound diced pork 1 Tablespoon salt 6 ounces diced onions 2 cloves garlic, diced 1 teaspoon oregano Red or green chile to taste To prepare the posole, first thoroughly clean the blue corn. Try to get all of the loose skins and dust out. Rinse with water. Boil 3 to 4 quarts of water. Add the calcium hydroxide. Add the corn until it’s expanded and the outer hull pops open a bit. It will take anywhere from 20 to 60 minutes to cook, and should be cooked just past al dente. Rinse it thoroughly. Put the posole in quart bags (you should get about 4 quarts). Each quart should weigh about 2 pounds. Freeze until you are ready to make the stew. To prepare the Blue Corn Posole Stew, boil your posole and pork with salt until the posole is cooked but not mushy. This will take over an hour, so many people use a pressure cooker. Saute onions, garlic and oregano in a separate pan. Add or remove water from the posole/pork mixture to desired consistency. Add sauteed onions, garlic and oregano to the posole. Adjust seasonings to taste. You may add green or red chile to the stew or you can serve it on the side.

A N N A P U R N A’ S WORLD V E G E TA R I A N CAFÉ With locations in Albuquerque and Santa Fe, Annapurna’s has become a local favorite known for its organic, vegetarian cuisine—but it has a lot going on outside of the restaurant as well. Owner Yashoda Naidoo donates the cooking oil from all three locations to be converted into biodiesel fuel, a chemically refined oil that works as fuel for diesel engines, but with fewer emissions than regular diesel. Yet another great example of local initiatives by local chefs.

PUMPKIN P I S TA C H I O SOUP

HARTFORD SQUARE On top of using locally grown, inseason ingredients, Sarah Hartford of Hartford Square works to reduce her restaurant’s carbon footprint by teaming up with Ironwood Farm, a chemicalfree farm located in the South Valley of Albuquerque. Not only does Sarah use a lot of the farm’s produce in her delicious meals, the restaurant also sends its kitchen scraps to the farm each week, where they are used for composting and to feed the pigs.

KALE SALAD WITH LEMON DRESSING

Serves 6

Serves 8

2 Tablespoons vegetable oil 1 pinch hing seasoning (optional) 1 ¼ cups shelled pistachios 1 dried red thai chili pepper, finely chopped 2 stalks lemongrass 1 ½ pounds pumpkin or butternut squash, peeled and chopped ⅛ teaspoon cloves 3 cups vegetable stock or water Fresh cilantro for garnish Add oil in pan with a pinch of hing. Roast the pistachios, red chili and lemongrass. Add the pumpkin, cloves and vegetable stock (or water). Reduce heat, cover and let simmer for 20 to 25 minutes. Puree the soup. Garnish with cilantro. Annapurna’s World Vegetarian Café has three locations: 2201 Silver Ave. SE in Albuquerque, 505.262.2424; 5939 4th Street NW in Albuquerque, 505.254.2424; and 1620 St. Michael’s Drive in Santa Fe, 505.988.9688. chaishoppe.com.

1 pound kale (local mixed varieties are best), thick stems removed and torn into bite sized pieces 3 Tablespoons lemon juice ¼ cup olive oil 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ¼ cup grated pecorino romano or Parmesan cheese ½ cup slivered almonds Place prepared kale in a large bowl. In a small bowl, mix lemon juice, olive oil, salt and pepper together; this is your dressing. Toss kale with dressing and make sure the leaves are well covered. If they’re not, make a bit more dressing. If possible, make a few hours before serving and refrigerate to achieve the right texture (the kale should soak up the dressing and not seem as raw). Before serving, toss with cheese. Plate and sprinkle with slivered almonds. Hartford Square is located at 300 Broadway Blvd. NE in Albuquerque. 505.265.4933. hartfordsq.com.

Tomasita’s is located at 500 S. Guadalupe Street in Santa Fe. 505.983.5721. tomasitas.com. A Taste of Life in New Mexico

APRIL 2015

Celebrating the Taste of Life in New Mexico for two decades! 38

Grow your business with us in 2015! Contact your sales rep today about amazing marketing opportunities! Santa Fe and Taos: Lianne Aponte 505.629.6544 lianne@localflavormagazine.com Kate Collins 505.470.6012 kate@localflavormagazine.com Albuquerque: Ashley Schutte 505.504.8130 ashley@localflavormagazine.com Cara Tolino 505.363.1046 cara@localflavormagazine.com Andrea Blan 505.907.3202 andrea@localflavormagazine.com

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OUR NEWEST EXHIBIT Discover how the Harvey Girls tamed the Wild West, one linen napkin at a time