September 2012

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

Santa Fe | Albuquerque | Taos

2012

Wine & Chile

SEPTEMBER 2012

LAURA SHEPPHERD ATELIER

so Gruet!

it’ s always time...

It’s always time for a

photosantagto.com

little bubbly. When you Silk jackets, perfect for fall!

join our Wine Club– Le Club de Vins–we

65 w. marcy street • santa fe 505.986.1444 • laurasheppherd.com

will ship each month’s special selection directly to you.

Contact us for more information on club membership and its benefits.

8400 Pan Am. Fwy. NE

GruetWinery.com

Albuquerque, NM 87113 505.821.0055

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facebook.com/GruetWinery

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

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Buzz

by Kelly Koepke | 10

What’s in, what’s out, what’s hot, what’s not … that’s the buzz!

The Big Buzz

by Chef Johnny Vee | 14

A madcap recap of the past culinary year—it’s the annual Big Buzz!

Paul Draper of Ridge Vineyards

Photo: Kate Russell

Inside:

Wine & Chile 2012

by Tom Hill | 20

A salute to this year’s Achievement Award winner, Ridge Vineyards, and their distinguished and beloved winemaker, Paul Draper.

Taos Hum

by Tania Casselle | 24

Meet two of our favorite “mountain men”: famed angler Taylor Streit and noted author John Nichols.

Sommelier

by Erin Brooks | 26

An insider’s look at the new generation of wine pros in Santa Fe.

The Flavor Starts Here

by Gail Snyder | 30 Photo: Kate Russell

Six great hotels, six fabulous concierges. What are their favorite spots in town?

Biking the Bosque

by Gabriella Marks | 35

See why it was named one of the “Top Twenty Bike Trails in the West.”

Rooftop Party Photo: Kate Russell

by photographers Kate Russell and Gabriella Marks | 40

Check out your favorite chefs at their annual localfavor party on the rooftop.

I Heard It Through the Grapevine

by James Selby | 44

A little sip of news from the vintners.

Machine Wilderness

by Gail Snyder | 49

ISEA2012 is one of the most influential international art shows to ever hit our shores. Thank you, Albuquerque, for bringing it to New Mexico!

Taos Hum

by Tania Casselle | 52

Join us at Taos Pueblo where we meet with silversmith Jacqueline Gala and artist Jeralyn Lujan-Lucero.

New Mexico Wine Trails

by Sara Van Note | 55

Photo: Gabriella Marks

More than fifty wineries across the state are waiting for you to discover a little of their local flavor.

ON OUR COVER:

The Chefs of Wine & Chile 2012

Who’s Who on the Cover

by Melyssa Holik | 60

Who do you know? Who do you love? They’re all here in the Who’s Who.

Still Hungry?

by Melyssa Holik | 64

Don’t leave town without a few chile recipes! Noted cookbook authors Bill and Cheryl Jamison dish up the hot stuff in their newest book, Tasting New Mexico.

2012 ~ Publishers Patty & Peter Karlovitz Editor Patty Karlovitz Publisher’s Assistant Melyssa Holik Art Director Jasmine Quinsier Cover photo: Kate Russell Advertising: Santa Fe: Mary Brophy 505.231.3181. Lianne Aponte 505.629.6544. Albuquerque: Leslie Davis 505.933.1345. Chris Romero 505.670.1331.

Prepress: Scott Edwards Ad Design: Alex Hanna Distribution: Southwest Circulation LocalFlavor 223 North Guadalupe #442, Santa Fe, NM 87501 Tel: 505.988.7560 Fax: 988.9663 E-mail: patty@localflavormagazine.com Website: www.localflavormagazine.com localflavor welcomes new writers. Send writing samples to patty@localflavormagazine.com

SEPTEMBER

localflavor is published 11 times a year: Feb, March, April, May, June, July, Aug, Sept, Oct, Nov, Dec/Jan. Subscriptions $24 per year. Mail check to above address. © Edible Adventure Co.‘96. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be used without the permission of Edible Adventure Co. localflavor accepts advertisements from advertisers believed to be reputable, but can’t guarantee it. All editorial information is gathered from sources understood to be reliable, but printed without responsibility for erroneous, incorrect, or omitted information.

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Celebrate Wine & Chile Fiesta

The Eldorado Hotel & Spa and Old House Restaurant are honored to participate in the 22nd Annual Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta!

This year the Old House Restaurant will host two 5-Course Winemaker dinners: Thursday, September 27th - 7pm

Enjoy a 5-course dinner with selections such as crispy seared pheasant and katafi wrapped shrimp impeccably paired with sparkling wines from Mumm Napa.

Friday, September 28th - 7pm

Relish and savor this 5-course dinner with selections such butter poached lobster salad and 28-day aged roasted New York strip perfectly paired with reserve wines from Robert Mondavi.

Reservations required. Please call 505.995.4530.

309 W. San Francisco Street

Santa Fe, NM

EldoradoHotel.com

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La Plazuela at La Fonda on the Plaza is a feast for the senses. The room is stunning and the menu sophisticated, showcasing old favorites with New World twists and truly authentic Northern New Mexican cuisine. Our wine list is award-winning, our service is impeccable and, according to the reviewers, you’ll be dining in the “best of Santa Fe style”.

Come make memories with us.

Dinner reservations recommended. Call 505.995.2334.

Photo: Kate Russell

www.lafondasantafe.com

letter

A Feast for the Senses

Here at localflavor we put out eleven beautiful issues a year, and I love every single one of them. But this one is my baby. This is the one that makes it all worthwhile. Standing on the rooftop of the La Fonda greeting the chefs as they come for our annual Wine & Chile photo shoot reminds me of how much I enjoy being around people who love being in the kitchen. Whether it’s because they’re bad boys with tattoos who get a kick out of playing with knives and fire or whether they’re girls who can hang tough in a male-dominated world, each and every one is passionate about their profession. They have to be. They wouldn’t put up with the physical and emotional demands and insane hours if they weren’t crazy about what they do. There is nothing I respect more than loving your profession, and I hope that the chefs on our cover feel the passion our staff has put into this issue—an issue that is meant to honor the restaurant community of Santa Fe.

We start off with the “Big Buzz,” a madcap recap of the past culinary year. You do need to know who’s cooking where and who’s new and what’s trending in our top kitchens, and you can always count on Chef Johnny Vee to stay on top of it all. Of course, it’s not just about the food—it’s also about the 150 wineries from all over the world that come to amaze and delight us with their remarkable wines.

For their latest news we turn to wine writer James Selby, who bring us his annual “I Heard It Through the Grapevine.”

One of my favorite stories this month is entitled simply, “Sommelier.” It was written by Erin Brooks, a young woman who exemplifies the level of professionalism that exists in Santa Fe’s wine community and the impact that her generation wants to make on the town’s culinary future. Wine & Chile Fiesta plays an important role in the furtherance of that future, too, by inspiring young sommeliers and supporting them financially. If you’re a young person who aspires to be a wine professional, the City Different is a good place to be.

Even we have to take a breather from the frenzy of Wine & Chile Fiesta, and that is what is so deliciously refreshing about our story “Biking the Bosque.” Named one of the top twenty urban bike trails in the West, Albuquerque’s Bosque trail is a constant source of surprise and delight for those who live on its very edge, as well as for out-oftowners who are seeking it out for the first time. It’s another reason for New Mexicans to take an autumn stay-cation in our state’s largest city and enjoy one of its finest jewels.

This month Albuquerque is also home to one of the most prestigious international art conferences, the International Symposium on Electronic Art, or ISEA 2012. Last year ISEA was hosted in Istanbul, Turkey; this year, it’s in Albuquerque, New Mexico. What a coup! Don’t miss this amazing symposium full of exciting projects, talks, presentations and art installations, located throughout the city and beyond.

Is summer over? Sadly, it is. But with the fragrance of roasting chile in the air, the excitement of Wine &Chile Fiesta right around the corner and the pride of hosting an international art symposium in our own backyard, autumn promises to be magnificent.

800.523.5002 Reservations 505.982.5511 Front Desk

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100 E. San Francisco Street Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501

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¡Viva la fiesta!

Ashiwi Awan Ulohnanne The Zuni World

Painting by Geddy Epaloose, Zuni

theSpa

at encantado

Home of the Healing Arts

The Spa at Encantado offers an innovative selection of spa and wellness services, honoring New Mexico’s indigenous healing traditions while paying tribute to Santa Fe’s established reputation for eclectic approaches to health and well being.

877.262.4666 • fourseasons.com/santafe • 198 state road 592, santa fe

NOW OPEN

V

VINTAGE FOUR TWENTY-THREE

HAPPY HOUR

Monday-Thursday 4-6pm & Saturday & Sunday 1-4pm 1/2 price appetizers, $2.50 Draught Beer, $4.00 premium well, $5.00 select wines by the glass Mon-Thurs 11am-12am | Fri & Sat 11am-2am | Sun 11am-10pm 8000 Paseo Del Norte NE, Suite A1, Albuquerque 505-821-1918 | www.vintage-423.com

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We also carry over 20 varieties of keg beer

Presently Stocking:

Wine tasting every Saturday 4pm - 7pm

Over 3500 Wines

Competitive Prices • Largest Selections Friendly Staff • Something for every Taste

800 Beer Choices 105 Single Malt Scotches 220 Types of Vodka 136 Types of Rum

&

BO TWIN

EY E

e y e s Established 1981

Established 1981

505.455.2219

• Temperature Controlled Wine Cellar

kokoman@cybermesa.com • We also carry over 20 Hwy 84/285 • Pojoaque varieties of keg beer 12tasting miles • Wine every North of Santa Fe • Wine Manager on Duty

FACE a FACE

Ronit Fürst Gotti Switzerland i.c!berlin Lindberg Denmark Oliver Peoples Loree Rodkin 2.5 Eyephorics

222 Tequilas FINE WINE & LIQUOR

Anglo American Anne et Valentin Beausoleil Lunettes Dolce & Gabbana Etnia Barcelona

GRO U P

o p t i c s S A N TA

FE

Taos

5 0 5 . 9 5Española 4.4442

 St Michael’s Drive, Santa Fe Monday thru Friday : ‒ : and Saturday : ‒ : Pojoaque by appointment www.BotwinEyeGroup.com N

Exit #502

Saturday 4pm - 7pm

CASTLE RANCH STEAKHOUSE WINE DINNER

Presently Stocking: Over 3500 Wines 900 Beer Choices 105 Single Malt Scotches 230 Types of Vodka 222 Tequilas 136 Types of Rum

Single Vineyard Wines from The Delicato Family Vineyards Thursday, September 27th, 2012 6:30 PM Wine & Chile Dinner Amuse Bouche Duck Confit Ravioli with Port Wine Demi Glace and Fresh Shaved Parmigiano Reggiano Loredona Riesling 2008 Monterey First Course Ala Minute New England Clam Chowder with Live Cockles, Kurobuta Bacon, Local Organic Corn, & Hatch Green Chile 446 Chardonnay 2010 Monterey Second Course Fourme d’Ambert Crostini with Shaved Local Organic Apple, Accompanied by Mixed Green Salad with Toasted Piñon, Balsamic Vinaigrette, and Peppered Honey Irony Pinot Noir 2010 Monterey Third Course Roasted Double-R Ranch Filet Mignon with Celeriac Mousseline and Hatch Green Chile Demi Glace Black Stallion Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Napa valley Dessert Dark Chocolate Pastilla with Fresh Raspberry and a Chimayo Chile Crema Brazin Old Vine Zinfandel 2009 Rockpile

505.455.2219 • kokoman@cybermesa.com Hwy 84/285 • 34 Cities of Gold Rd., Pojoaque 87506 12 easy miles due North of Santa Fe

Dinner begins at 6:30 Reservations will be required for this event. (505-473-2800) $89 per person plus 20% Gratuity There will be Complimentary Shuttle service to and from Downtown for the Wine Dinner Event.

Executive Chef Jeffrey Kaplan

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

Executive Sous Chef Daniel Johnson

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the buzz ALBUQUERQUE What a shock it was when Vivace, a staple of the Nob Hill scene, closed its doors this summer. Taking its place is Bistronomy, the city’s newest lunch, dinner and drinks hotspot. It’s got a new look, welcoming atmosphere and exclusive deals, and a few Local Flavor readers can gain entry to the Shhh Society VIP pre-opening party by signing up for a free membership that includes other offers restricted for those in the know. Visit www.shhhsociety.biz or like them on Facebook to get more insider info.

|| Bistronomy Big news from Wright’s Indian Art: Albuquerque’s oldest Native fine-art gallery, operating continuously since 1907, is movin’ on up—to the retail hub of Uptown. Help save the staff ’s backs (who wants to pack and carry?) and catch the storewide moving sale. Everything is 10-50% off! Wright’s new digs open in October in Encantada Square (Louisiana and Menaul). The gallery’s current location, at San Mateo and Lomas, is open until January. Like them on Facebook to get daily moving specials or call 505.266.0120 for more information.

A big Duke City welcome to The Ranchers Club of New Mexico’s new chef, Mike Von Blomberg. This Albuquerque native brings 15 years of experience—and a new menu—to this venerable steakhouse after studying at Johnson & Wales and doing stints at Seasons Rotisserie & Grill, Hotel Andaluz and the internationally acclaimed Al Forno in Providence, RI, where he learned at the knee of celebrity chefs Joanne Killean and George Germon. For reservations call 505.889.8071 or visit www. theranchersclubofnm.com.

Speaking of steak, Embers Steakhouse is now open at Hard Rock Hotel & Casino at Isleta Pueblo. With the tagline “dining on a different level,” Embers promises outstanding food and guest services as well as fireplaces, an outdoor patio with stunning views of the Rio Grande valley and, of course, breathtaking New Mexico sunsets. Casino dining is definitely taking 10

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it up a notch in ’Burque. Open Tuesday through Saturday from 5 to 10 p.m. Call 1.877.475.3827.

What better way to preserve the season’s bounty and learn more about how food can heal than with classes from Los Poblanos Inn and Cultural Center?

Explore different styles of pickling and creative ideas for using them in your cooking from Chef Jonathan Perno on September 6. Then on September 9, make dandelion coffee, burdock-carrot casserole and astragulas tea in Finding Health in Our Roots, taught by Connie Henry, a naturopath and nurse. Check out the complete calendar of events, workshops, cooking classes and Farm Shop specials on www.lospoblanos.com or call 505.344.9297.

Los Poblanos is the site of another celebration of our local farmers: the annual harvest fundraising dinner for the Rio Grande Agricultural Land Trust, running from 3 p.m. until starlight on September 16. Featuring the culinary skills of Albuquerque’s finest chefs from restaurants such as Savoy, Seasons, Zinc, and Los Poblanos, this year’s RGALT dinner has much to celebrate. The organization completed two conservation easements on working family farms on the historic San Ysidro Acequia in Sandoval County; was awarded a $1 million grant from the North American Wetland Conservation Act to preserve over 600 acres of privately owned wetland and riparian land in the Socorro reach of the Rio Grande (just three miles north of the Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge); and added of a number of properties in the middle Rio Grande.

Open your wallet for a good cause at www. rgalt.org or call 505.884.6557.

|| Le Chat Lunatique Music. Wine. Art. Dancing. Cuisine. All of these are promised on Sunday, September 23, from 3 to 7 p.m. at the One Last Day of Summer celebration at Anasazi Fields Winery in Placitas. Scheduled on what is technically the first full day of fall, this farewell to the heat and hello to autumn includes two tres cool musical acts: Wendy

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Colonna from Austin and local gypsy jazz boys Le Chat Lunatique. There is arguably no more beautiful place than Anasazi Fields nor any more relaxing way to spend an afternoon than noshing the goodies from The Seasonal Palate and drinking Anasazi’s delicious wine (sold by the glass and by the bottle). Call 505.867.3062 for directions.

A family farming business with a long history (102 years to be exact), Wagner Farms is hosting two events in September.

The VIVA New Mexico Chile Festival, held September 8 and 9 at their 288acre farm in Los Lunas, brings together local chile farmers for a mini growers’ market. Visit www.vivachilefestival.com to find out more. Then from September 29–30, Wagner adds flavor to the 27th Corrales Harvest Festival. Relive fond farm day memories with a ride on one of the many antique tractors; march in Saturday morning’s kickoff Pet Parade; and vote for the Pet Mayor of Corrales (a fundraiser for the Kiwanis Club of Corrales). New this year is the Tour de Pump(kin). Choose your distance, hop on your bike, and pump(kin) to support the Safe Routes to School program at Corrales Elementary and Cottonwood Montessori. There will be hayrides, pony rides and, of course, lots of local food and live entertainment, arts and crafts, plus a Friends of the Corrales Library book sale. There’s much more, but we’re out of space! Visit www.corralesharvestfestival. com or call 505.349.3809.

September is Hispanic Heritage Month, and what better way to celebrate than at the Southwest Tequila and Taco Fest?

It’s happening on Saturday, September 29, from noon to 5 p.m. at Expo New Mexico’s Villa Hispania. Leave the kiddies at home for this adult event, where $10 get you three tequila tastes, food from a dozen of Albuquerque’s best Mexican restaurants, live music, cooking demos, a margarita competition, mechanical bull rides and plenty of food, drink and art from local vendors. Those under 21 and/or designated drivers get in for just $5. The first 2000 attendees get a free taco, too. For more details, visit www. tequilaandtacofest.com.

It’s been a great nine months for the New Mexico Philharmonic, having risen out of the ashes of the New Mexico Symphony last year. Bravo to them for the new series, Introduction to the Classics, which gives music lovers the opportunity to learn more about the genre and the composers who created the music we enjoy today. The first program in the series, Beethoven: His Story and Symphony No. 5, is scheduled for September 29 at the historic Kim Theatre and hosted by Spencer Beckwith of KUNA 89.9FM’s Performance New Mexico. Season and single-concert tickets are also available for the five-concert Pops Series at Popejoy

Hall, beginning September 8 with Dave Bennett’s Tribute to Benny Goodman, a night of swing-era classics performed by a clarinet prodigy who brings to life the music of “The King of Swing”.

And don’t miss Mahler’s Symphony No. 2 “Resurrection” on September 15 at Popejoy. Visit www.nmphil.org for complete details.

|| New Mexico Philharmonic Experience music of a different sort at the 8th Annual ¡Globalquerque!, New Mexico’s Celebration of World Music and Culture, September 20–22 at the National Hispanic Cultural Center.

(I remember when Neal Copperman of AMP Concerts and Tom Frouge of Avokado Artists were dreaming of bringing international artists to our humble burg way back when.) This year, dance your pants off at ¡GlobalQIK! Dance Party on Thursday ($10), then join the free Global Fiesta Saturday from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Festival performances are Friday and Saturday evenings beginning at 6 p.m. Get a complete festival overview and buy advance purchase, weekend passes and kids tickets at www.globalquerque.org, or visit NHCC’s box office.

SANTA FE

|| Le Truck, Las Cosas Hone your kitchen skills with classes taught by our own columnist Chef Johnny Vee at Las Cosas, September 14– 15. A two-day celebration of Le Creuset and French cuisine, Vive La France with Le Creuset includes a vintage Citroën Truckette parked in the center court of DeVargas Center, samples of French goodies, in-store drawings, free gifts with

purchases, and special prices. On Friday, it’s Julia & Johnny Vee Series–Soups & Stews. Then on Saturday, embark on a mini exploration of Julia Child’s Mastering The Art Of French Cooking.

Each class is hands-on, and c’est si bon!

Register at www.lascosascooking.com.

The best food is what’s grown closest to home, so says everyone! If you need more culinary ideas for your farmers’ market haul, check out the Santa Fe Farmers’ Market weekly Tuesday demonstrations beginning this month. Visit www. santafefarmersmarket.com for details. Or sample the newly established Farmers’ Market at Arroyo Vino. Each Thursday through October 4 from 2 to 6 p.m., venture just outside the city limits to the parking lot of local wine store Arroyo Vino, at 218 Camino La Tierra. The market features local organic produce, artisan baked goods, handcrafted items and more, from vendors like David Vigil Farms, Esquibel Orchards, Omara Handmade, Estudio Phi, Ó Eating House, and Saint Francis Bakery. For more information, call Elle Webb at 913.209.4940.

An exciting new gallery in Santa Fe, Arroyo, at 200 Canyon Road, exhibits fine art, photography, sculpture, pottery and more, all with a distinctive Western influence. Through September 18, explore the new works from Connecticut’s Silvermine Guild alumni David Dunlop and Helen Frost Way. Way makes her home in Santa Fe, absorbing the color and warmth of the Southwest and sharing it with us from her studio overlooking lush gardens and wonderful views.

Dunlop is a modern-day Old Master (and Emmy-winning writer/host of the PBS series Landscapes Through Time with David Dunlop) whose luminous landscapes draw from Renaissance techniques and contemporary science.

He’ll be giving a talk and demonstration at noon on both September 14 and 15.

Visit www.arroyosantafe.com.

Notes on Music series has become a favorite in Santa Fe, partly because of the way he passionately describes the music, the composers and the instruments.

Consider it the most interesting, fun and enlightening music education class you could ever attend! Illick and special guest violinist Richard Rood explore the deep and tangled history of the small but mighty violin and the lore surrounding legendary violinists. Tickets are $20 and available at www.ticketssantafe.org.

Occasionally, I reevaluate my liquor cabinet. What new (and preferably local) tastes can I add? You should, too, because Santa Fe’s KGB Spirits has three! They’ve re-released Bronze Medal (2012 San Francisco World Spirits Competition) Taos Lightning single barrel straight bourbon. Plus, two new products are sure to perk up your potent potables pantry.

Naranjo Orange Liqueur has a nose of orange zest and orange rind, with no alcohol burn on the palate. Just a subtle, refined sweetness of natural orange.

Mmm. Brimstone Absinthe is sure to evoke the romance of 1920’s Paris, when the green fairy flirted with Hemingway, Fitzgerald and Dali. Featuring an allnatural potato base, herbs and botanicals and post distillation, its distinctive Absinthe color comes from wormwood, anise and fennel, which balance well with the bitter and sweet headiness of the other botanicals.

|| KGB Spirits

|| Helen Frost Way Mark your calendars. On Monday, September 24, the Santa Fe Concert Association’s offers an intimate look at one of the most important instruments in classical and popular music—the violin.

Why did someone pay over $15,000,000 for the Lady Blunt Stradivarius in an auction last year? Was the great violinist Nicolò Paganini really in league with the devil? Artistic Director Joseph Illick’s

Ahem. This is a big deal, so pay attention.

The Santa Fe Community Foundation has announced the 2012 Piñon Award winners for their work as outstanding nonprofit organizations and dedicated philanthropists in our communities. On October 9 at the Piñon Community Forum, celebrate the winners: Littleglobe, Inc. (Courageous Innovation Award); Santa Fe for Students (Visionary Award); Friendship Club (Quiet Inspiration Award); League of Women Voters (Tried & True Award) and Michael and Pat French and Elizabeth Rice (Philanthropic Leadership Award). For more information, go to www.santafecf. org or call 505.988.9715.

We’re all about the art in Santa Fe. On September 16, the After Hours Alliance will once again showcase dozens of Santa Fe artists and musicians at the Railyard, highlighting visual, performing and

literary artists, as well as musical acts that are stretching the boundaries of what constitutes commercially successful art. Last year’s festival drew a crowd of over 2,000 for food, dancing and fun in the sun. Please join us for this free celebration of our creative community!

Better yet? It’s free! Check out more details at www.railyardsantafe.com.

Is it too early to think about holiday parties? Not if you want yours to be at the Eldorado Hotel & Spa. This year, Santa Fe’s premier luxury hotel is gearing up to give back this holiday season by donating 5% of the food and beverage portion of the bill to the event planner’s charity of choice. Kudos to Director of Catering and Conference Services, James Schelnick, for being community-minded. “Non-profit organizations have been deeply affected by a tumultuous economy over the last few years,” says Schelnick. “This is the Eldorado’s way of offering our valued guests, locals and corporate clients an opportunity to help make a difference and give back to the charity of their choice.” There’s some fine print, of course, so call 505.995.4527 for details.

Heard of Wheeler’s Dry Gin? Santa Fe Spirits wants you to know about this artisanal gin crafted from indigenous Southwestern botanicals, the brainchild of distiller Nick Jones, who has a particular enthusiasm for the liquor.

Made from the high desert’s ubiquitous juniper berry plus mysterious additional ingredients, Wheeler’s Dry Gin was named in honor of Wheeler’s Peak, itself named after George Wheeler, an explorer, cartographer and botanist of the American West. It was Wheeler’s survey that first identified osha root, a local botanical and key ingredient in Wheeler’s Dry Gin. In addition to the distillery’s current products, Santa Fe Spirits has more than 100 barrels of whiskey aging for future limited releases.

Distillery tours and tasting room hours can be found at www.santafespirits.com.

TAOS Hurrah for The Taos Chamber Music Group’s 20th anniversary season, kicking off September 22 and 23 at the Harwood Museum of Art! TCMG can always be counted on for a festive opener combining their

signature mix of classical, Spanish, Latin, popular, jazz and folk music influences. The full season features nine different “wild and scenic” programs, ranging from chamber music favorites by Bach, Mozart, Haydn, Brahms and Schubert, to music inspired or composed by Native Americans, to collaborations with dancers, actors and filmmakers, as well as two TCMG commissions (one a world premiere) plus special appearances by Robert Mirabal and the American String Quartet. Visit www.taoschambermusicgroup.org for details.

More kudos for Taos. (Watch out, or the town’s ego is going to balloon!)

Recently named one of the “Top 10 Towns Not to be Missed this Summer” by Mikesroadtrip.com, Taos earns praise for its relaxed and impressive array of amenities, B&Bs with great accommodations and service, dining options with overall selection and innovative creations to rival those of bigger cities, and art scene. To which we say, “Of course, Mike!” Taos is a playground for kids and adults alike because of its endless outdoor and cultural activities. We especially like llama trekking with Wild Earth Llama Adventures. They offer low-impact overnight camping or one-day “Take a Llama to Lunch” packages that include trekking in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains or Rio Grande Gorge, guided by owner and conservationist Stuart Wilde. Call 800-758-LAMA (5262).

Attention bikers! Join the other 799 cyclists planning to pump the 35th Annual Enchanted Circle Century Tour on September 9. One hundred miles of the toughest, most beautiful mountain terrain you’ve ever seen begins in Red River, winds through Questa to Taos and Angel Fire, then over to Black Lake and Eagle Nest before returning to Red River.

Relax, there are rest stops and sag wagons. You can also choose from 25-mile, out-and-back and 50mile categories. Register at www. redriverenchantedcirclecenturytour. com. We’ll raise a toast to you all at the finish!

In the story “Serpent Trail Dancers” that ran last month, we erroneously stated: “In 2010 on January 6, Martin Luther King, Jr. Day, his tribe was to honor new officials with a feast.” This sentence should have read, “In 2010 on January 6, King’s Day, his tribe was to honor new officials with a feast.” There is no relationship between Martin Luther King, Jr. Day and King’s Day as celebrated by the pueblo people. “King’s Day” refers to the religious honoring of Christ, and the rebellious decision made by the Ohkay Owingeh not to perform a sacred dance to honor St. John, the Patron Saint assigned to them by the Spanish after the Pueblo Revolt. It is important to us that this be clarified, and that readers understand the current meaning of King’s Day to the Ohkay Owingeh people.

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the historic bishop’s lodge & fine wine.

The Perfect Pairing.

This Wine & Chile Fiesta, experience a five-course wine country inspired “A� Dinner created by internationally-acclaimed Chef and Sommelier Christopher McLean at Las Fuentes Restaurant & Bar featuring the Justin Winery.

Thursday, September 27 at 6:30pm $125 per person plus tax and gratuity

Reservations Required

505.819.4035 bishopslodge.com

Etched Tasting Glass Gift to Each Guest

Fifth Annual

at Saturday and Sunday September 22 & 23, 2012 10am-6pm

* REVEL in the amazing antics of Santa Fe favorite Clan Tynker! * BOW to Their Majesties Queen Isabella & King Ferdinand!

Photos  by  Charles Â

Mann

* CHEER on the brave pursuits of jousting and medieval sword fighting!

* INDULGE in belly dance, flamenco, a falcon show and other entertainment! ...And much more! A Renaissance Fair with Spanish Flair!

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A tavola non si invecchia.

(At the table with good friends you do not grow old.)

NEIGHBORHOOD TRATTORIA

Lunch M-F 11-2 路 Dinner Nightly at 5 505.995.9595 路 322 Garfield Street, Santa Fe AndiamoSantaFe.com Wine & Chile Fiesta Dinner: Tuscany Explored Wednesday, September 26, 2012

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Wine & Chile 2012

the

Bigbuzz

story by CHEF JOHNNY VEE

Photo: Kate Russell

>> Chef Joseph Wrede

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Meanwhile, life at the Palace under owner Dave Bigby (who has definitely earned his stripes overseeing the restaurant’s makeover) goes on without a hitch. Chef Ryan Gabel (Joe’s former sous chef ) has taken over the kitchen there and gently guided it in a new direction, which includes the addition of a creative Sunday brunch and some pretty snazzy Jazz Nights. A nice opportunity for the likable and talented young chef (who likes to don a kilt in the kitchen!).

magazine.com

Photo: Kate Russell

>> Chef Tom Kerpon of Tanti Luce 221

The talents at the stoves seemed particularly restless but resilient this year. Chef Tom Kerpon moved on from Balconies on the Plaza to revamp the former Amavi into Tanti Luce 221. Summer was already upon us when it opened its doors, so he had his work cut out for him. I’m a big fan of the bar menu, especially the fiery chipotlefired deviled eggs and the green chile tempura. First-time >> Chef Ryan Gabel of the Palace restaurateur Rick Smith and partner, Missy Auge, have put a heap of energy and TLC into the place—plus it’s one of the prettiest restaurants in town.

It was big news when Taos’ Joseph Wrede headed south to help with the massive renovation of Santa Fe’s legendary Palace Restaurant. But as often happens in new projects, Wrede moved on to pursue other opportunities after helping with the launch and carrying the new staff through the important first months. Personally I am hoping for a Joseph’s Table revival right here in our town—it was certainly a much-beloved restaurant for almost a decade. Watch this space!

Photo: Gaelen Casey

Photo: Gabriella Marks

Round and round she goes, ladies and gentleman, and where she stops nobody knows. No, I’m not quoting the barker’s call at the New Mexico State Fair but rather the ever-changing and constantly morphing Santa Fe food scene. This past year, as restaurateurs hung on for dear life due to the still-schizophrenic economy, diners were treated to thrills (and spills) as chefs strived to earn our love and attention. It all made for an exciting year for me, too, as I covered my edible beat.

>> Chef Johnny Vee

>> Chef James Campbell Caruso of La Boca

Photo: Gabriella Marks

A few Santa Fe chefs and restaurateurs spread their wings and flew south to the ‘Que to open sister restaurants. The Compound’s Mark Kiffin opened the nifty Zacatecas Tacos + Tequila to absolute rave reviews. Erin Wade is about to launch Vinaigrette Albuquerque in the same neighborhood. Both entrepreneurs chose Central Avenue as their locations, recognizing that Route 66 is still Duke City’s Restaurant Row. >> Michael O’Reilly of Pranzo and Alto

Photo: Gabriella Marks Photo: Gabriella Marks Photo: Gabriella Marks

Photo: Kate Russell Photo: Gabriella Marks

>> Chef Charles Dale

Charles Dale, to whom I give full credit for putting Encantado Resort and Spa on the map with his wonderful cooking, left when the new owners, the Four Seasons group, took over mid-summer. I’m waiting for the dust to settle before checking out the new operators but can’t wait to see what Dale does next. Rumors were rife with conjecture, but at press time his plans were tightly under wraps. Except I do know that … oops, can’t say yet!

New joints joined the fray and cut the consumer pie into thinner slices. Josh’s BBQ’s Josh Baum and his delightful wife, Ann, opened The Ranch House out on Cerrillos Road, which is quickly becoming the new frontier of Santa Fe dining. Their expanded menu gives barbecue lovers just what they crave, as well as other options to boot.

James Campbell Caruso was a busy boy this year, what with publishing his second cookbook (España: Exploring the Flavors of Spain) and opening what I predict will be autumn’s hottest restaurant, Taberna La Boca. Not only is he one of the nicest guys in the industry but also one of the most talented. I can’t wait to try the braised lamb shoulder with olives and figs. >> Chef Amaury Torres of Babaluu’s

Other newbies worth a visit include Café Fina (in the former Real Food Nation space out Eldorado way) that has Mu Du Noodle alum Murphy O’Brien and wife, Annamaria, hopping seven days a week. (The cloud cakes are truly heavenly.) Out on the beautiful Turquoise Trail, you can catch Babaluu’s Cocina Cubana, where Chef Amaury Torres dishes up his yummy Caribbean cuisine with a special touch (the garlicky yucca is to die for), while wife, Mary, channels Lucy table-side, charming us to pieces. In town at Café Café, new owner Stu Dickson— usually in a snappy Tommy Bahama shirt—just might be my new favorite personality on the hospitality scene this year. He’s certainly a master at making diners feel spoiled. Pranzo owner Michael O’Reilly added a new casual concept with the restaurant’s upstairs café, Alto. The night I went to check it out, the place was so busy I fled for calmer shores but will return once things calm down.

(Love the “small plate” concept with specially paired wines from the southern hemisphere.)

There were some entertaining new additions to the bar scene this year, including the aforementioned Palace, where lights are low and everyone looks sexy; the part >> Stu Dickson of Café Café sports bar, part penny arcade Stats, where Chef Eric DiStefano fries up some mean chicken wings; and the comfy expanded lounge act of the Agave Lounge at the Eldorado, where great prices and lobster sliders lure thirsty revelers out on the town. I’m eager to sample new Executive Chef Evan Doughty’s menu in The Old House, especially the 28-day aged rib-eye served with Hatch green chile mac and cheese. Yum!

>> Josh & Ann Baum of The Ranch House

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SEPTEMBER 2012

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Photo: Kitty Leaken

Photo: Kate Russell

Photo: Gabriella Marks

Wine & Chile 2012

>> Executive Chef Evan Doughty of The Old House 16

SEPTEMBER 2012

>> Rick Smith and Missy Auge Juarez of Tanti Luce 221

Photo: Gabriella Marks

>> Erin Wade of Vinaigrette

Photo: Gaelen Casey

Photo: Gabriella Marks

>> Chef Kim M端ller and Mark Kiffin of the Compound and Zacatecas

>> Leonard Razatos of Plaza Cafe Southside magazine.com

>> Veronica Bonnelly, Sous chef and Alex Christensen, Executive Chef, The Ranch House

Photo: Gabriella Marks

Photo: Kate Russell

>> Owner of the Palace, Dave Bigby

>> Executive Pastry Chef Andrea Clover and Executive Chef Brett Sparman of Luminaria

My old favorites remain just that: regular haunts that I am thrilled are still thriving. 315 Wine Bar & Bistro saw Louis Moskow back in the kitchen for much of the year, and I love the new menu. The restaurant is a four-minute walk from my front door—a smart choice for me on wine-centric nights. I still love to wow out-of-town guests with the Coyote Café/DiStefano fun, and I am always surprised and learn new things every time I dine there. I put all my out-oftowners up at Inn and Spa at Loretto and love the buzz that new Executive Chef Brett Sparman is already making, since he took over Luminaria this spring.

He is the next chef to watch for national acclaim.

I’m also a big fan of The Plaza Southside (especially pre- and post-movies), but I’m equally glad that the original downtown location reopened after a kitchen fire two years ago forced the popular restaurant to go on hiatus. The brothers Razatos sure know a thing or two about food and keep both locals and tourists well supped.

The Santa Fe School of Cooking has new expanded digs on Guadalupe Street, where they continue their wonderful teaching of our cherished local cuisine.

Meanwhile, former director Rocky Durham is taking over the old space to create the Santa Fe Culinary Academy, which will teach the ways of the food world to professionals and novices both. I am happy to report that at Las Cosas I am heading in to my 14th year of teaching all kinds of cuisines and having a heck of a good time along the way.

>> Chef Rocky Durham of Santa Fe Culinary Academy

>> Eric DiStefano of Geronimo and Coyote Cafe

Photo: Kate Russell

Photo: Kate Russell

Folks ask me daily what my favorite restaurant in town is, and although I have different favorites for different occasions, if forced to make one pick I would resoundingly reply Geronimo. Three unrivaled meals I enjoyed there this summer reminded me of why I love it so: dapper Chris Harvey at the door plus expert and flawless service that is helpful, fun and never obtrusive. (My favorite waiters are Tim and Nouri.) The elegant staff and décor set the mood and tone for the entire evening. And then, amazingly creative, beautiful, delicious food (cold plates under cold food, hot plates under hot food!), a world-class wine list … and the accolades go on. I like to think of restaurants as theatrical productions, and if the sets, costumes, actors, lighting, songs and dialogue are right, the show is a success. With Chef du Cuisine Paul Novak deftly handling Chef Eric DiStefano’s brilliant menu, Geronimo, to me, is a runaway hit. Long may she run.

So many restaurants, so little time. It’s what’s perfect about the Grand Tasting at Wine & Chile—they’re all under one roof! I hope you have as much fun checking them out as I do. Living (and dining) well in Santa Fe is the best revenge! -JV

>> Geronimo staff at Santa Fe Wine and Chile 2011 A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2012

17

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A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2012

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Wine & Chile 2012

Photo: Bob Lee

Paul Draper

T

his year marks my 22nd year as a participant at the Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta; my first was the inaugural one, held in the Sanbusco Center’s back parking lot. If there’s been one constant in the event over those years, it’s been the presence of Ridge Vineyards. This year, Ridge’s CEO, winemaker Paul Draper, is the Fiesta’s Honoree of the Year, an award that comes highly deserved.

Paul will be presenting a seminar featuring a six-year vertical of the renowned Monte Bello (‘84, ‘95, ‘99, ‘07, ‘09, ‘11 barrel sample), a Cabernet-based blend that is one of the world’s truly profound wines. I tasted the ‘11 from a barrel with Paul in March, and I thought it was probably the best Monte Bello I’d had in years. An 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, it has the highest percentage of Cab of any Monte Bellos since the ‘70s.

Paul has given several seminars at Wine & Chile over the years. Because the event occurs smack-dab in the middle of crush, it is not easy for hands-on winemakers to get away for a few days to present their wines in Santa Fe. The fact that so many winemakers take time out for Wine & Chile attests to the event’s importance. Not that Paul’s absence from work will jeopardize the crush at his own vineyard. He has assembled a staff at Ridge that is the envy of many wineries. Dave Gates supervises the many vineyards from which Ridge draws its grapes. Eric Bauer is winemaker at the Monte Bello estate, and John Olney (nephew of famed food writer Richard Olney) is his counterpart at the Lytton Springs facility. Even though these three have “Vice President” after their names, they are, most assuredly, out there amongst the vines and barrels doing real work—oftentimes with Paul right beside them.

A Short History Ridge Vineyards was founded in 1959 when four Stanford Research Institute scientists bought the abandoned William Short property high atop Monte Bello ridge, overlooking the Santa Clara Valley. They then bought the adjacent Osea Perrone property and bonded its derelict winery for commercial production in 1962.

The founding winemaker was Dave Bennion. In the mid-’50s, after receiving his Ph.D. from Stanford, he worked several summers at Los Alamos National Lab and made important contributions on the subject of firing circuits. Another Ridge founder, Hew Crane, was the first engineer hired at Princeton by Johnny von Neumann. He made significant design innovations to the first all-electronic computer, the ENIAC, predecessor to the Los Alamos MANIAC computer.

During the first few years, Bennion made Cabernet from the vines Short had planted in 1949. The vines’ distinctive character suggested that Monte Bello was a unique site that could produce world-class wine. In 1964, Bennion applied his Cabernet techniques to produce the first Ridge Zinfandel, from the nearby Pichetti vineyard. Applying fine winemaking techniques to a grape variety that had heretofore been relegated to jug wines was a remarkable innovation, and Zinfandel was lifted to new heights.

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Photos: Ridge Vineyards

story by TOM HILL

Left to right: David Gates, Vice President, Vineyard Operations; Eric Baugher, Vice President, Winemaking - Monte Bello; Paul Draper, CEO/Winemaker; John Olney, Vice President, Winemaking - Lytton Springs.

As Ridge expanded its production, the founders realized they needed a full-time winemaker. They settled on a young man who had just returned from setting up a small winery in Chile, Paul Draper. I can only guess that it must have been an interesting interview, given that Paul likely had a very thin resumé. Yet this gamble obviously has paid huge dividends over the years.

Paul’s debut vintage as winemaker was the 1970—and what a debut it was. The ‘70 Ridge Monte Bello is regarded by many as, perhaps, the greatest Cabernet ever made in California. Paul, too, recognized it as something special and had “MB70” as his license plate for some years.

As time passed, the four original founders got on in years and became less and less involved in Ridge operations. In 1986, Ridge was purchased

by Otsuka Pharmaceutical of Japan. Many of us Ridge aficionados were convinced that this move foreshadowed the end of Ridge’s producing great wines. But that was not the case. The Otsuka management recognized that they’d put their money on a winning horse and pretty much gave Ridge free rein, naming Paul as CEO two years later.

At the famous “Judgment of Paris” tasting, in 1976, in which Stag’s Leap Cabernet bested other California Cabernets and four Bordeaux classified growths, the Ridge Monte Bello ‘71 finished fifth, in the middle of the pack. The French tasters scoffed at their “mistake” and sniffed that the Bordeaux would surely come out on top with some age.

This very same tasting was repeated, in Paris and in Napa, in 2006. This time, the winner was... (ta-da!) ....the Monte Bello ‘71; with all the classified Bordeauxs filling out the bottom tier. So much for French supremacy when it comes to Cabernet.

Today One of the buzzwords in wine circles these days is “natural.” This term refers to wines made with natural yeasts, little oak, minimal or no sulfur dioxide additions, and so forth. Some of these wines are, quite frankly, not very good.

Ridge has practiced natural winemaking techniques for years, well before it was fashionable. Because the word “natural” carries such loaded connotations, Ridge prefers to use the term “pre-industrial” to describe their winemaking. Make no mistake, there’s plenty of modern stainless steel at Ridge, but it is utilized to efficiently replicate winemaking techniques used many years ago. The folks at Ridge are willing to use the latest in wine technology; they just don’t want to abuse it. The bottom line, always, is to produce a better wine.

Ridge’s chemistry lab is as modern as they come. Every lot of wine is given a detailed chemical analysis, which is used only for guidance in heading off problems. It is not, in any sense, winemaking-by-numbers. Nearly all of the Ridge wines are blends, but these blends are calibrated strictly by taste.

Staff tastings are held at least once a week, more often when the final Monte Bello assemblage is being decided in February, following the vintage. I have been privileged to participate in a few of these tastings. It is customary that tasters take notes on the various wines they taste, usually in a blind test. With Paul presiding, they then offer up their opinions. Paul listens very intently to everyone’s thoughts, taking more notes. I am always struck by the collegial nature of the process, but in the end, the final decision is Paul’s to make, as he thoughtfully explains. The process made me appreciate the effort Ridge puts into their blends.

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

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Paul Draper The A rT of Wining & Dining

Recollections I met Paul in the summer of ‘74 when I made an appointment for my first visit to Ridge, after several years of correspondence in regards to his wines. (Paul even has a thick “Tom Hill” folder in his files!)

We did a walk of the Monte Bello vineyard and then adjourned to the upper winery for tasting. Joining us that visit was Jeremiah Tower and three of his French chef friends. Tower, then in charge of the kitchen at Chez Panisse, had not yet achieved his celebrity-chef status. I recall Tower seemed a little peeved that Paul spent most of his time answering my multitudinous questions.

Over the years, I’ve had many interactions and tastings with Paul. I used to rent a condo in Aspen with a group of friends who would attend the Aspen Food & Wine Classic, where Paul was a frequent speaker. My friends and I would hold our own winemaker dinners at the condo. One night, Paul and Sacramento grocer Darrell Corti joined us, and we sat up into the wee hours of the morning listening to those two carry on a lively exchange on a vast variety of topics.

Of all the people I’ve met in the wine biz, Paul and Darrell possess the most gifted intellects around. Had those two chosen to be physicists, the Higgs boson would’ve been discovered way back in the ‘70s, before Higgs had even postulated it!

Any discussion of the relationship between Ridge Vineyards and Santa Fe Wine & Chile would be remiss if it didn’t mention Donn Reisen, Ridge’s late marketing director and president. Reisen was the iconic Ridge representative at many a Wine & Chile Fiesta, from the early years onward. His death several years ago left a huge hole in the hearts of many of us. Donn is greatly missed.

Paul is 75 and has more than 40 years in the saddle at Ridge, so it’s not surprising that rumors of his retirement are being circulated … with great trepidation. Though he has the greatest staff—from top to bottom—that any CEO could ever ask for, I simply don’t see retirement on his horizon. As far as I can tell, Paul’s enthusiasm and passion for making wines at Ridge burns as brightly now as when I first met him almost 40 years ago, atop Monte Bello Ridge. And that, to me, is an absolutely amazing accomplishment, unparalleled in the California wine business.

Ridge’s website (www.ridgewine.com) is one of the best winery websites around. It’s loaded with information about Ridge and its wines. The Monte Bello tasting room manager, Christopher Watkins, writes a wine blog (http://blog.ridgewine.com/) that is one of the most compelling reads in the wine blogosphere. (Interestingly, when you enter “17100” into the Google Maps search box, what should pop up as the first listing among all the addresses beginning with 17100? Ridge Monte Bello Road! It’s worth checking out the vineyard’s satellite image.)

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Carmen Rodriguez at Fuego

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A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2012

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The Taos Hum I

n this monthly column, writer Tania Casselle introduces us to the people who make Taos hum.

Let’s head to the mountains to meet two avid outdoormen who follow the call of the wild and the lure of the pen.

s t o r y b y TA N I A C A S S E L L E

photos by LENNY FOSTER

John Nichols

Author John Nichols moved from New York City to Taos in 1969 and, as he puts it, “never looked back.” His debut novel, The Sterile Cuckoo, launched his writing career at age 24, and he’s never looked back from there either. Three of his 20 published books turned into movies, and he’s now the subject himself of a documentary, The Milagro Man, named for the most famous title in his New Mexico trilogy, The Milagro Beanfield War. Nichols is in peak form with his latest novel, On Top of Spoon Mountain, a gutsy page turner packed with laugh-out-loud moments and smart one-liners. But the heart of the book is a tender story of a father’s love for his grown-up kids and the mountains—especially Spoon Mountain, which the out-of-shape, out-of-luck hero, Kepler, determines to climb again on his 65th birthday. Readers might interpret Kepler (novelist, Hollywood screenwriter, passionate about nature) as Nichols in disguise, but no, he’s a fictional character. “Most things that happen to him have never happened to me,” says Nichols. “On my 65th birthday I probably climbed a 13,000-foot mountain three times that week. I went wild climbing. I was never out of shape for 20 years.”

Raised in a tri-cultural family, Nichols was initially drawn to the multicultural community in Taos.

“What kept me here was the land. I’ve hunted, I’ve fished, I’ve hiked everywhere within a 20 to 30 mile radius of my door. I’ve found infinity in a grain of sand here.”

Nichols writes daily. “I work all night pretty much until six or seven every morning.” He’s also busy archiving his documents and photographs for the UNM Center for Southwest Research. “Each year the archivists come up to Taos to take away another truckload, then we go and celebrate at the Trading Post: a bowl of spaghetti and a glass of wine.”

He describes himself as “becoming quite a hermit. Time is running out and I love working.” Aside from occasional after-hours guitar jamming sessions with friends at Brodsky Bookshop, “My biggest entertainment is putting on CDs of old blues players at 3 a.m. in my kitchen, and I play along with my guitar. That’s what I do for chills, thrills and excitement!”

More about the author and On Top of Spoon Mountain (UNM Press, August 2012) at www. johnnicholsbooks.com.

John Nichols and Taylor Streit read from their new books at these booksigning events: Tome on the Range, Las Vegas, NM, on October 6, and Collected Works Bookstore, Santa Fe, on October 9. John Nichols also reads at Bookworks, Albuquerque, on October 28.

Taylor Streit

On the day we talk, Taylor Streit informs me that he “slept out in the middle of nowhere last night, scouting for antelope and also scouting a secret stream. I can’t mention the name.” Secret streams are his livelihood. Lauded as a Legendary Guide in the Fresh Water Fishing Hall of Fame, Streit opened Taos Fly Shop in 1980, which is now run by his son Nick, while Taylor operates the guide business that takes around a thousand people fishing each year. His three books include an updated 2012 edition of his classic Instinctive Fly Fishing. “I rewrote the whole thing. It’s got 20,000 new words,” says Streit, adding wryly, “It took me a year to rewrite it, and it took five years off my life.”

Streit moved to Taos from upstate New York in 1969 (the same year his fishing buddy John Nichols arrived), and he still loves New Mexico. “It’s the territory, the space, finding places I’ve never been before that other people don’t go to. And there are endless places to find.”

Even when this outdoors guy is trapped indoors, he seems happier with a rod in hand, judging by a recent book reading where he flicked a Fly-O practice rod around, demonstrating how to cast and—to the great amusement of the audience—how NOT to cast.

It’s a no-brainer to guess his favorite Taos place. “The Rio Grande, for sure. It’s still fabulous fishing, very remote. Thank God it’s in that big hole down there. Not many people are willing to go there.”

When not hunting or fishing the wilderness (“I’ll find one little drop of water and head there to know if there’s a fish in it”), Streit might dine in town, vouching for Orlando’s grilled shrimp and chile rellenos, and the shrimp tacos at Guadalajara Grill. (“I guess I eat a lot of shrimp.”) Aside from shrimp, he claims no secret vices. “I’ve worn ‘em all out,” he laughs. Streit’s recommendations for visitors to Taos? His thoughts flow straight back to water. “Rafting is a good one, and going to Williams Lake and some of the high places up by the ski valley. Just go fishing again!”

Taos Fly Shop and Guide Service, 308-C Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos, (575) 751-1312, www.taosflyshop.com.

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frESh And lOcAl On thE pAtiO

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A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2012

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Wine & Chile 2012

Sommelier story by ERIN BROOKS

The way I drink wine is different than the way others drink it. When I pour a glass of wine, I angle the glass against a white napkin in order to really see the color of the wine. I swirl the glass and watch the way the alcohol evaporates from it. I take deep inhalations and try to pinpoint all the fruit and aroma descriptors I can (vanilla? cherries? chocolate?). Finally, I taste the wine and try to savor each layer of flavor, noting the levels and character of the alcohol, tannin, body and acid. Just as a classically trained musician hears all the fine details of one of Beethoven’s symphonies differently than someone who doesn’t play an instrument, as a sommelier I taste wine in a very active way, paying attention to all the tiny details and nuances.

This is because I am part of a generation of burgeoning sommeliers and wine professionals who are helping transform Santa Fe’s culinary community into one of the best. You may not know it, but our city is full of young professionals who have set out to make a career in wine. We are the servers, bartenders and wine reps that you see in establishments across town, whether you’re at the Compound or Blue Corn Café. We are the well-meaning but possibly annoying folks at parties trying to talk to you about the latest Bordeaux en primeur campaign. Steve Dietz, who works at Susan’s Fine Wine & Spirits, jokes, “When I first started studying wine it’s all I talked about at every social occasion.” Each of us has had a “moment” when we tasted a certain bottle and simply fell in love. For me, it was when I worked as a bar back at Geronimo and the bartender let me have a glass of Darioush Viognier. For Laurie Catizone of Southern Wine & Spirits it was a bottle of Stag’s Leap Artemis Cabernet that a bartender opened for her after she told him she didn’t like wine. His response? “You’re just not drinking the right wine!”

Santa Fe is no New York or San Francisco, but the dedication of our young wineloving professionals is certainly setting our city apart. In an effort to push our careers forward and broaden our expertise, dozens of people from across the culinary community are taking exams with the Court of Master Sommeliers (CMS), one of the most respected organizations testing the knowledge and service skills of professionals in the food and beverage industry. CMS gives four levels of exams, all of them self-study, with the exception of the first level, which is preceded by two days of lectures.

The fourth level Diploma Exam is the stuff of legend: You have to be invited to take the exam, which consists of an oral wine-and-spirits theory test, a service exam where a candidate must wait on several tables of Master Sommeliers, as well as a blind tasting of six different wines. Taking this exam is the equivalent of fighting a Jedi Master— and winning! The pass rate is a meager ten percent. For aspiring sommeliers and wine professionals, earning the letters “MS” is like getting a doctorate and becoming “Miss Soand-so, Ph.D.” Photos: © Emilijan Sekulovski, Mabe123, Marian Mocanu | Dreamstime.com

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Any of the exams is difficult enough. Imagine taking the second level, for example. Your stomach is in knots. You’re standing in front of a table of some of the highest-ranking wine professionals in the world. First you’ve got to open a bottle of sparkling wine making less than a whisper of sound, and pour it for them without drizzling on the table, all the while answering questions like, “Could you please recommend a dessert wine with Botrytis that’s not from France?”

If you successfully answer the questions and carry a tray loaded with glasses without your hands shaking, then it’s on to a written theory exam and, after that, blind-tasting two wines. Despite the pressure, students are lining up to participate. Julian Paiz of Santacafé recently passed his first level exam and says he will absolutely take the second level. “It’s a great way of expressing to my employer and colleagues exactly where I am in the process of studying wine. The exams ensure a level of education among professionals that benefit all parties involved, especially the customer.”

The dedication and commitment of the young people in Santa Fe taking these exams is indeed helping our culinary community to become better and better every day. In our city, it doesn’t matter what the price range of a given restaurant is—you are just as likely to find someone who can talk to you about wine in a moderately priced establishment as you are at Geronimo or Restaurant Martín. With so many young folks taking CMS exams at all levels, you won’t be getting a blank stare when you ask your server to recommend a bottle of wine to go with your salmon entrée.

Laurie Catizone points out that Santa Fe has a unique culinary community already. “It’s a small town but a famous food town, and it’s what drives our economy, so if you’re a part of that industry you should know what you’re talking about, and we have a lot of savvy people in town.” The fact that our famous food town is filled with young people dedicating their lives to the study of wine will only strengthen the amazing culinary community that already exists here.

The Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta, the most awesome food and wine event this side of the Mississippi and itself a part of what makes Santa Fe so unique, recognizes the potential of the younger generation of wine professionals in our city and has responded by sponsoring CMS exams each year for several lucky individuals. Proceeds from Wine & Chile are given back to the community in various programs (including the Cooking with Kids program, where in one of the programs, local chefs teach fifth and sixth graders about the art of cooking— how cool is that?). Since 2010, Wine & Chile has paid for around 110 people to take exams. This is pretty amazing from the point of view of those of us in the industry—the cost of the exams is prohibitive for some of us, ringing in between $325 and $995, depending on the level of exam. Greg O’Byrne, Executive Director of Wine & Chile, thinks that Santa Fe may just have the highest number of first level exam graduates for a city of its size. He says, “These exams are an important challenge for students. It inspires them to raise the bar and gives them something to run for.”

He’s certainly right about that. All over town, groups of us are getting together to study, exchanging note cards and surprising each other with quiz questions (“Name the five First-Growths of Bordeaux!”). We are pouring each other blind tastes and following along on tasting charts (“You forgot to mention viscosity!”). We are part of a culture of professionalism that is transforming everyone in the business, from servers to sommeliers, bartenders to wine specialists and wine reps to directors of food and beverage programs. Steve Dietz says, “If you get high enough in your exams, you can have any job in the world. You can write your own ticket.”

Our generation of dedicated wine professionals is climbing up a culinary ladder, and we’re taking Santa Fe with us.

Erin Brooks graduated from the College of Santa Fe with a B.A. in Creative Writing and Politics. Erin has been in the service industry since 2008, when she started working for Geronimo Restaurant. She has worked as a bartender, bar manager and sommelier. She has passed her Introductory Course and Exam for the Court of Master Sommeliers, achieved the Intermediate Certificate for the Wine and Spirit Education Trust and has completed the BarSmarts bartender education course. Currently she is studying for further wine exams, working as a freelance food and wine writer and exploring new opportunities in the wine industry.

Photos: © Chiyacat | Dreamstime.com

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

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Good Food With Good Friends

Thank You!

“

Creativity and versatility are key…we never prepare the same menu twice.

Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta and all in the Santa Fe culinary community who help Cooking with Kids teach thousands of children about the joys of delicious, healthy food!

Just the Best Produce Company La Montanita Coop localflavor Santa Fe Harvest Festival SFPS Student Nutrition Department Smith’s Neighbor to Neighbor Fund Whole Foods Market and the CWK Super Chefs!

Photo by Jennifer Davidson

Visit us at www.cookingwithkids.net Ad courtesy of localflavor Cooking with Kids, Inc. is a 501(c)(3) non-profit organization PO Box 6113, Santa Fe, NM 87502 (505) 438-0098 28

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”

Chef Stan Wacker La Vida Llena 2011 Chef of the Year NM Restaurant Association

We invite you to come dine with us and discover why our cuisine is just one of the benefits of living the full life at La Vida Llena.

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www.NewMexicoTravelBlog.com/a-taste-of-heritage A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2012

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The Flavor Starts story by GAIL SNYDER photos by GAELEN CASEY

Gloria Castillo, Inn of the Anasazi Located steps from the Plaza, the Inn of the Anasazi is “a peaceful sanctuary,” says enthusiastic concierge Gloria Castillo. “Guests walk out, come back for an in-room massage, enjoy lunch and one of the best margaritas in town on our patio, a popular spot for people-watching.” God is in the Inn’s details.

“Doors are hand-carved; brick walls are built in the Anasazi method; a water wall fountain humidifies the building.”

Gloria, who grew up in New Mexico, sends her guests out exploring. “There’s a former schoolhouse in the Canyon Road area that was a tuberculosis sanitarium in the early 1900s. High-caliber artists, writers, architects and geologists came here under doctor’s orders, for the clean air. Once they got healthy, many stayed. I love sharing those stories.”

Inn at the Anazasi, 113 Washington Ave in Santa Fe. www.rosewoodhotels.com/en/ innoftheanasazi.

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Here

Mary Thomas, The Inn and Spa at Loretto

Antoinette Eugenio, Four Seasons Rancho Encantado

One of our most iconic Christmastime sights is the Inn at Loretto in the glowing outline of hundreds of luminarias against the night sky—“totally outstanding,” says concierge Mary Thomas admiringly. Right next door is the legendary Loretto Chapel with its miraculous staircase. “We’re number 27 on the Condé Nast list of 250 top hotels worldwide!” Don’t forget their high-ranking spa, “and our new artist-in-residency program, where different artists come each week to share techniques and stories with guests as they work.” The whole staff, she adds, is happy to be there.

Got kids? Mary recommends Patrick Smith Park with its nearby rope swing along the Santa Fe River. “And go sit outside at the Wheelwright Museum with storyteller Joe Hayes. It’s really fun.” (For adults, too!)

This Tesuque landmark resort recently became part of the Four Seasons enterprise. Antoinette Eugenio, concierge before the shift, says, “We have the best of both worlds! I feel so blessed.”

Describing its acclaimed restaurant, fitness center, movement studio, huge spa, ballroom (“great for weddings”), pool, hiking trail, valet service, boutique and gallery, all nestled into a peaceful natural environment, she jokes, “We should have our own zip code!”

Particularly fond of pointing out “hidden gems” to guests, Antoinette recommends eschewing the highway for Tesuque’s graceful tree-lined roads. Make the magical trip to Abiquiú, she suggests, adding, “And stop at the Bode General Store! It’s nutty and quirky, with a great little deli. Take the High Road to Chama, and don’t miss the Fudge Factory— family-owned, made fresh daily!”

Inn and Spa at Loretto, 211 Old Santa Fe Trail in Santa Fe. www.innatloretto.com.

Four Seasons Encantado, 198 State Road 592 in Santa Fe. www.fourseasons.com/santafe.

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R

emember Kay Thompson’s popular Eloise picture books? Eloise, a rambunctious six-year-old, lives in “the room on the tippytop floor” of the glamorous Plaza Hotel. The whole place is hers! The lobby is her living room. She gets to ride up and down the elevator all day if she wants. She gets to choose her meals from room service, which all arrive—even a tuna sandwich— under a silver dome! The concierge (unlike her nanny, who frowns at anything remotely out of the ordinary) suggests incredible adventures all over New York that none of her schoolmates has ever even dreamed of.

We’re fortunate in Santa Fe to have our own unique luxury hotels, and although the vast majority of guests can’t actually live there, they can thoroughly enjoy not only the special ambiance of their chosen resort for the length of their stay but also the concierge’s lively and extremely original suggestions of wonderful things to do and see.

Listen as six professional Santa Fe-loving concierges describe for you their top-ranking hotels while divulging the best-kept secrets they share with their guests—the ones that ordinary tourists will very likely never hear!

Inger Boudouris, Hotel St. Francis

Dachelle, Eldorado Hotel

Tom Kellogg, La Posada

The Hotel St. Francis is lovingly modeled after a monastery. “It’s an amazing concept I feel very proud of,” says concierge Inger Boudouris. “With the beautiful candlelit lobby in the evenings, it’s such a warm, peaceful ambiance, a blessing in this world of hustle and bustle!” Staff teamwork “makes guests feel happy, special and that they’re having a wonderful adventure.”

Originally from Sweden, Inger has a special appreciation for our town’s “mind-boggling” Old World cultural opportunities, which she enthusiastically passes along to hotel guests.

For self-directed explorations, she loves sending first-time visitors to the Cross of the Martyrs. “It’s a 30-minute walk, through the mishmash of streets so typical of this European-like city, and from the top, Santa Fe is spread out before them!”

With dignity and quiet majesty, the Eldorado Hotel presides over downtown’s heart. “I have deep love for the Eldorado,” says Dachelle, its articulate concierge. “It’s my joy to share it.

I’m pleased to recommend with such honesty our Old House Restaurant,” a longstanding favorite, renowned for its aged beef. Citing the hotel’s many amenities—rooftop hot tub, salon, Nidah Spa and more—she encourages people to “visit our recently remodeled Agave Lounge. It’s hip, beautiful and popular!”

Dachelle feels confident directing guests to the Dale Ball trail system, with its easy-tofollow maps. For families, it’s the Children’s Museum “and an alpaca ranch I direct them to.” And, being an art aficionado herself, she loves personalizing gallery recommendations.

“Everyone is amazed that this small town has such world-class cultural opportunities!”

La Posada is the grand dame of its downtown residential neighborhood, built around the Staab House, a showcase Victorian mansion constructed in 1882 by a wealthy merchant for his wife.

“It’s a historic treasure,” marvels friendly concierge Tom Kellogg. “Only two blocks from the Plaza, we’re on six gorgeous acres.

Archbishop Lamy planted the apricot trees you see, and they’re still bearing fruit, 130 years later! We’re simply one of the most unique resorts in a very unique community!”

For guests with only an afternoon to spend, Tom steers them to what he calls our highlights: the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum, the Palace of the Governors, the New Mexico History Museum “and the Loretto Chapel, for the staircase.” He also recommends Bandelier’s night walks. “The stars are astounding!”

Hotel St. Francis, 210 Don Gaspar Avenue in Santa Fe. www.hotelstfrancis.com.

Eldorado Hotel, 309 W. San Francisco in Santa Fe. www.eldoradohotel.com.

La Posada, 330 East Palace Avenue in Santa Fe. www.laposadadesantafe.com

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New Mexico’s 8th Annual Celebration of World Music and Culture

Ozomatli

September 20 - 22 National Hispanic Cultural Center

World Music Artists from 5 Continents on 3 Stages Over 2 Nights PLuS: The Big Spank (New Mexico, USA) • Bombino (Niger) • Canteca de Macao (Spain) Daniel Kahn & The Painted Bird (Germany) • La Familia Vigil (New Mexico, USA) Los Gaiteros de San Jacinto (Colombia) • Ali Akbar Moradi Ensemble (Kurdistan, Iran) Plena Libre (Puerto Rico) • Ti-Coca & Wanga-Nègès (Haiti) • Zeb & Haniya (Pakistan) More to be announced!

¡GlobalQik! Dance Party! Thurs. Sept. 20 DJ sets in the Fountain Courtyard - and more!

FREE! Global Fiesta Sat. Sept. 22, 10:30 am - 4 pm

Bettye LaVette

Food, crafts, dance, workshops,music and hands-on activities for all ages.

Both events at the National Hispanic Cultural Center

www.globalquerque.org Plena Libre

R. Carlos Nakai Earth Sounds Ensemble

The best in world, folk & eclectic music

505-232-9868

Laurie Anderson Dirtday

Sunday Sept. 23, 9 pm KiMo Theatre

Look for these and other great concerts Friday, OctOber 19

Rasputina

tuesday, OctOber 23

Jim malcolm thursday, OctOber 25

caRavan of thieves

aMP, heath concerts & JaW present

MOnday, OctOber 29

Donna the Buffalo Wednesday, OctOber 31

Thursday, Oct. 4 7:30 pm Kiva Auditorium

Balkan halloween paRty fRee event - JeeZ laweeZ Special collectionS library - Sept 6 • 5:30 pm

Opening the show

Tickets available:

Washed Out

ampconcerts.org

and

Sad Baby Wolf

AMP Info Line: 505-232-9868 34

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H

Bike the Bosque

story & photos by GABRIELLA MARKS

ere’s a fun fact: Nearly every single person, on foot or wheel, that I passed during my round-trip journey on Albuquerque’s Bosque Bike Trail smiled and waved back at me.

How often does that happen across a divider at rush hour on Lomas or St. Francis? How often do you crack a smile brushing past another on a sidewalk going from an annoying parking ticket machine to a meeting? What exactly is the deal with this crazy “smiling at each other” phenomenon? Here’s my theory: People smile at each other on the Bosque trail because we’re enjoying ourselves. It’s infectious. And we feel like we’re part of an intimate club in the middle of a big anonymous city. The smile and nod of the helmet is a secret handshake, similar to the hand signals motorcyclists make to each other on the road, whether they are driving a Harley Hog or a BMW Cafe Classic.

Actually, the Bosque bike trail is hardly a secret. Sunset Magazine named it one of the “Top Twenty Bike Trails in the West,” and National Geographic Adventure Magazine recently named Albuquerque as one of the best cities for outdoor adventure, highlighting the Paseo del Bosque trail.

While the Bosque may not be secret, it certainly is rare. Jay Lee Evans is a Senior Urban Planner with the Open Space Division of the Albuquerque Parks and Recreation Department. Jay explains that most other Southwestern cities—Phoenix, Las Cruces, Tucson, San Antonio—drastically changed the rivers that run through them. These cities “channelize” the rivers to stabilize them for urban use and, in doing so, permanently alter the river landscape and ecology. Albuquerque is unique in having chosen to preserve the river environment. It’s a firm belief of Jay’s (if not a quantifiable statistic) that the Bosque is the largest riverine cottonwood forest on the globe.

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Biktehe Bosque Today, preservation of the cottonwood forest and surrounding environment along the Bosque is an ongoing effort. One of the main environmental restoration projects along the Bosque trail is “pole-planting”— removing the exotic and dangerously flammable Siberian elms, Russian olives and salt cedars that choke out the native species and replacing them with cuttings of cottonwood and willow. The Open Space Division isn’t engaging in this large-scale restoration alone. Through projects like Get on the Bus and support from their nonprofit affiliate, the Open Space Alliance, they are bringing school and community groups out to the Bosque to plant tens of thousands of trees.

Jay explains that we can also preserve the Bosque by teaching schoolchildren about the Bosque’s ecology.

“When they understand about the land, they are less likely to dump trash or vandalize.”

Fortunately, “preservation” does not mean creating a pristine and untouchable museum exhibition of a space.

Preservation and environmental restoration are at the heart of keeping the Bosque a healthy, vital and useful artery through Albuquerque.

The historic acequia system still conducts water to urban agricultural areas, including five farm properties that the Open Space Division manages in the public interest. The Rio Grande Community Farm is one of these farms, a non-profit urban community farm off the Bosque that grows produce for local schools. Even the act of farming is considered to be one of riverine environmental restoration; 25% of the cropland on these farms is dedicated to cultivating wildlife crops that provide food and habitat for the thousands of birds that live and migrate along the Bosque flyway.

Bosque usage isn’t limited to water flow. It’s also about moving people, as it has been for centuries. Long before commutes were all about cars and bikes, the Bosque path was a means for connecting the pueblos from Sandia to Isleta. The trail was already well-defined when the Martin Chávez administration, a great promoter of trails, paved the path in the late 90’s. The idea was to expand access to a path that was already enjoyed by hikers and equestrians. Pavement meant that wheels of all shapes and sizes—from roller blades to wheelchairs, baby carriages to bicycles—could now enjoy the Bosque trail.

The Bosque trail may be one of the most frequented public spaces in the entire area, because it’s not just for the weekend hike, or the occasional afternoon excursion.

For many people, it’s part of their daily commute. Jeff Taylor, manager of High Desert Bicycles in Rio Rancho, commutes along the Bosque bike trail and recognizes many of the other cyclists he sees there as daily use riders.

In a previous life, I rode a mean 15-mile-a-day round trip from the tufts of Boston’s Teele Square to the nooks and crannies of its Fort Point district. It was an allsystems-locked-and-loaded, green light “go” affair. Urban cross-town commute during rush hour cycling is not for the weak of heart or faint of calf. I harbored my private 36

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fantasies of Mad Max-ian bike-messenger glory and absolutely loved every sweaty moment of it. I was also 22 and working in a record store where the “just sweated across town in 80% humidity” look was distinctly appropriate, and I relished the challenge as a daily proving ground of glory and nerve.

Those memories are precisely why I’m aware of just how valuable and precious the Bosque Bike path is that bisects the metropolis of Albuquerque from the pastoral northern semi-wilds of Alameda to the suburban compounds south of Rio Brava.

Until you’ve ridden the road from that streetwarrior “ride to work” perspective, self-propelled in a state of precarious balance on two wheels, muscling into position side by side with the attention-deficit-driven automobile—controlled by a driver who may or may not be late to work, still waking up after sleeping too little, touching up mascara, sipping overly hot coffee, checking emails or, geeze-forbid, talking on the phone—you may not appreciate just how precious a ride through the Bosque trail is. With its beautifully cultivated, gently winding path, riders are blissfully free of the adrenalin rush that comes from competing with cars fairly unconcerned with quaint notions like “share the road.”

The Bosque trail provides a viable commuting route where cyclists can ride without competing with cars or inhaling second-hand exhaust fumes.

If they are lucky, they may catch spontaneous and utterly magical moments like the one Jeff Taylor remembers, when, on one fall morning on his ride into work, he saw a tree hosting three bald eagles.

When you step outside, when you choose to move through space without a large rectangular envelope of metal molded around you, you experience the environment. To me, it’s one of the most riveting aspects of riding a bicycle. A car shields you from so many experiences: the smell of the sage, the glistening sun-dazzle of the dew evaporating as the morning temperatures rise, the welcome warmth on your neck as the sun gains momentum mid-morning to counter the chill and, most deliciously, the cooling breath of the water as you glide by.

The water beside the Bosque path is nature’s air, and it creates an oasis effect. Even on a sweltering day, mere proximity to the water will cool you down. I was distinctly aware of the experience on my ride. It was as if an ice fairy had drifted towards me and sighed from above. I could feel the temperature shift like a current flowing over me, and the cooling was pure delight.

I’m a big believer in the Every Day Oasis.

It’s my personal definition of the oft-quantified parameter “quality of life.” And that’s the beauty of the Bosque. It gives people an every day oasis as part of their daily passage.

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

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New Chef • New Menu • All New Look Same Great Service

Complimentary Appetizer to Say ‘Thanks’ for the Last 27 years! with purchase of entrée, limit one per couple

1901 University Blvd. NE in the Crowne Plaza Albuquerque Reservations: 505-889-8071 • theranchersclubofnm.com

Save the Date!

Saturday, September 15, 2012 The Eighth Annual

Fun for the Whole Family!

A day of home made salsa tasting and judging, activities for the kids and entertainment throughout the plaza featuring salsa music and dance.

Special Performance by

La Excelencia

The New Generation of “Salsa Dura” direct from New York City

For more information call: 311 www.abqsalsafiesta.org (Relay NM or 711)

Cultural Services Department, City of Albuquerque, Richard J. Berry, Mayor.

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Wine & Chile 2012

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A Woman’s Place is in the Kitchen Left to right: Kim Muller, Compound; Joelle Hopwood, La Posada; Deena Chafetz, Quail Run; Mary Loya, La Posada; Hyunsook Lee, Izmi Sushi; Angela Ortiz, Rooftop Pizzeria; Jen Doughty, The Lodge at Santa Fe

New Kids on the Block left to right: Stu Dickson, Café Café; Amaury B. Torres, Babaluu’s Cucina Cubana; Evan Doughty, Old House; Ryan Gabel, Palace Restaurant; Brett Sparman, Luminaria; Cristian Pontiggia, Osteria d’Assisi

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2012

41

Rooftop Party

Wine & Chile 2012

Tattooed Dudes Left to right: Alexander Cuffee, Rooftop Pizzeria Ryan Gabel, The Palace; Carmen Rodriguez, La Posada;

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La Fonda Back Row, Left to right: Ed Pulsifer, Joshua Ortiz, Executive Chef Lane Warner, Shawn Murphy, Adrian Montoya, Peter Vigil, and Jennifer Lea Kimball.

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26th Annual Arts Festival

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A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2012

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Wine & Chile 2012

I Heard It Through the

Grapevine

story by JAMES SELBY

& Chile Fiesta, a major-league event buoyantly hosted by our state’s hospitality and wine professionals. From September 26th through the 30th venues in and around Santa Fe veritably hum, offering geeks and plebs alike, seminars and demonstrations, tastings, luncheons, wine dinners and auctions, presented by sundry international wine and food celebrities. Seventy-five local restaurants and one hundred and fifty wineries from all regions of the world participate in the Grand Tasting held on Saturday at the Opera grounds. Coming upon its huge peaked tents one might assume the Greatest Show on Earth was in town. It’s the winemaker we celebrate in our Grapevine feature, and while we’re unable to acknowledge each, we honor all, by the inclusion of a few.

Photo: Ridge Vineyards

“Soft Summer Days” is the title of a painting by local artist Phyliss Kapp. The watercolor, depicting an orange sun-ball dropping behind plum colored mountains encasing vineyards cleaved by a looping, red dirt road, whimsically captures the sweet spot of harvest in New Mexico. It’s the featured art poster for this year’s 22nd annual Santa Fe Wine

| Pagani Ranch, Ridge Vineyards

Photo: www.calerawine.com

Many winemakers won’t leave their vineyards in September, because crush, or harvest is then. “I’ve not come [to Santa Fe] for many years because of the date of the festival,” said Paul Draper, the CEO/Winemaker at Ridge Vineyards. The Robert Frost of wine, Draper is this year’s recipient of the SFWC Honoree of the Year. He added, “I have two winemakers who’ve been with me for years. They do a great job without me standing there.” Ridge produces estate, single-vineyard wines from the Santa Cruz Mountains, Sonoma County and Paso Robles, and Draper’s 1971 Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon placed amid the top in a now-famous blind tasting of Bordeaux and upstart California wines in Paris in 1976. After that, the world’s perception of California wines was never the same, though what remained unchanged was Draper’s hands-off approach to winemaking. He offers minimal interference with what nature provides. When asked if it was too late to turn back from the so-called industrial age of winemaking, he said, “I’m hopeful, but it’ll be one producer at a time coming to realize what fine wine really is, and making wine of place with traditional methods.” How does he imagine Ridge in 100 years? “We have great people who believe in what they’re doing and will teach and choose those who come after, and they will continue to find ways to produce even finer wine.” The road less traveled by…

Photo: www.vineconnections.com

In Argentina, bud break is nigh and snow melt from the Andes Mountains will soon flow to the vineyards in Mendoza. Leaving nature to her devices, winemakers (and brothers) Luis and Pepe Reginato will make the long journey to Santa Fe representing their separate wineries. Under the family name, Reginato, Pepe and their father, Jose, make valued-priced, growers sparkling wines. This means they oversee every detail from grape to bottling. Luis is the winemaker for Luca Wines, owned by Laura Catena, an M.D. and daughter of Nicolás Catena, Decanter Magazine’s Man of the Year in 2009. Luca Wines--Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and old-vine Malbec--are an anomaly of grace and power.

| Jose And Pepe Reginato of Luca Wines 44

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Calera Wines’ Josh Jensen is the limestone cowboy.

Burgundians grow Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in limestone-rich soil. So does he—90 miles south of San Francisco on a former quarry. (“Calera” means “limekiln” in Spanish; a rendering of one appears on the label.) Burgundy separates vineyards into small plots, emphasizing distinct wines. So does Calera. In 1975, the now-famous sites of Selleck, Reed and Jensen vineyards were planted. Three hundred acres were added and divided into single vineyards, where Jensen continues to produce small-batch wines of stunning character and repute.

Photo: www.maison-trimbach.com

| Anne Trimbach

Photo: www.calerawine.com

Enology and viticulture are the indoor and outdoor of winemaking. Either you like to tinker in the winery or get out into the fields. Eric Mohseni studied food science and chemistry in college, beginning his career in retail wine shops. Taking time off to travel and work crushes in California and New Zealand vineyards, Eric got his first taste of winemaking. He says, “I will never forget the aromas from barreling wine into new oak. It gave me goose-bumps.” In 2001, he joined Zaca Mesa Winery in the Santa Ynez Valley as an enologist. (Still an “inny.”)

Eventually, he worked his way out into the vineyards and up to winemaker in 2008. Planted on terraces (or mesas), Zaca Mesa’s higher elevation vineyards provide slow ripening of their affordable and expressive Rhône varieties.

| Anne standing, from left: Jean [both in marketing], Pierre [is current winemaker], Bernard, father.

| Gerard Bertrand

Photo: Zaca Mesa Winery & Vineyards

In 2006 Château D’Esclans, in Côtes de Provence, began producing Whispering Angel, one of the most talked-about trendy rosés. Provençal rosé isn’t in itself unusual, except for the fact that owner Sacha Lichine and his family were once proprietors of two great houses of Bordeaux. Those went away and so did Sacha—to the Mediterranean. Lichine, who resembles an extra in Dirty Rotten Scoundrels, purchased a 700-acre property and hired the dignified Patrick Leon, 75, formerly winemaker at Mouton-Rothschild. The two have combined new and traditional techniques to begin producing rosé wines both modest and grand.

Compatriot Gerard Bertrand (Wine Enthusiast’s 2011 European Winery of the Year) is a former rugby star who learned winemaking at his daddy’s knee. He’s created a top-quality portfolio of Languedoc wines, both sparkling and still, and in Narbonne, France, opened Château l’Hospitalet, a carbon-neutral inn and estate overlooking the vineyards and the sea.

Photo: Agne27 wikipedia.org

Like independent bookstores, many family wineries have been absorbed by mega-corporations. Maison Trimbach, of Alsace, France, is bucking that trend. Opened in 1626, it is family-run and still produces some of the world’s great Rieslings. Anne Trimbach, 28 years old and a member of the family’s thirteenth generation, has joined the business.

Tall and possessed of characteristic French charm, she recently visited Santa Fe in her capacity as a marketer.

When asked if she had ever felt resistance to taking up the family mantle, she said, “Not yet—hopefully never! My Uncle Pierre is the winemaker now and is fully dedicated to his vineyards and cellar.” Who’s being groomed to be the next winemaker? “Julien, my Uncle Jean’s son, spent two years in Burgundy and serving internships with great winemakers in Europe.” Jean Trimbach, the roaming ambassador of the noble house, will attend Wine & Chile.

“Jean tells wonderful stories,” said Anne.

| Josh Jensen of Calera Wines

| Eric Mohseni

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Archery Summit, in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, has been at the head of its class since it was founded in 1993 by the late Gary Andrus, a visionary winemaker who also started Pine Ridge, in Napa Valley. An unapologetic luxury brand with retail prices beginning in the forty dollar range, Archery Summit delivers expressive, impeccable Pinot Noir. Their single-vineyard Red Hills has been served in the White House. Anna Matzinger, fresh-faced and brilliant, has made the wine since 1982. Like Eric Mohseni, she started out as a lab rat. “The chemistry is important,” said Anna, “but you can’t rely on test results to make great wine. You’ve got to walk through the vineyard, crawl inside the tanks, make judgments in the barrel. Then you have a chance at greatness.”

Jerry Lohr, raised on a Midwestern farm, has a knack for agriculture that led him to California in the early 70s, purchasing land in Monterey and Paso Robles, as well as a parcel in Napa. The French know better than to grow Pinot Noir in Bordeaux or Cabernet in Burgundy, and, similarly, Jerry’s farmer instinct told him that different varietals do better in specific locations. Today, Lohr and family offer a breadth of estatefocused, hands-on wines. Jeff Meier, a Bay Area boy who fell in love with wine country, has been with Lohr for 25 years and is chief winemaker.

“There’s not a heck of a lot I can do as a winemaker to make great wine out of poor starting material,” said Jeff. “Having control over our own vineyards, we can develop each block, monitor yields and consistently harvest exceptional fruit.”

Calera Wines’ Josh Jensen is the limestone cowboy. Burgundians grow Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in limestone-rich soil. So does he—90 miles south of San Francisco on a former quarry. (“Calera” means “limekiln” in Spanish; a rendering of one appears on the label.) Burgundy separates vineyards into small plots, emphasizing distinct wines. So does Calera.

In 1975, the now-famous sites of Selleck, Reed and Jensen vineyards were planted. Three hundred acres were added and divided into single vineyards, where Jensen continues to produce small-batch wines of stunning character and repute.

Photo: www.jlohr.com

Photo: Andrea Johnson

Wine on a shelf is like an actor on a stage; label and bottle merely a costume containing the substance of artistic expression. Stars— and the undiscovered—prepared to pour out their hearts, in hope of touching the audience. Santa Fe Wine & Chile, at its roots, is a festival of art.

| Jeff Meier, Director of Winemaking, J. Lohr Winery 46

SEPTEMBER 2012

| Anna Matzinger of Archery Summit magazine.com

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A Taste of Life in New Mexico

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story by GAIL SNYDER photos courtesy of ISEA 2012

A

strange-looking car is slowly making its way up from Mexico and across the border, not only by road but by railroad tracks. It more closely resembles a silver spaceship on wheels, with an odd device hooked into its front like a cowcatcher. It’s the SEFT-1 project, brainchild of Mexican electronic artists Andres Padilla Domene and Ivan Puig. That metal mechanism in front allows the vehicle to ride the rails threading across Mexico, a vast network of now-decomissioned train system, that in its heyday connected Mexico’s big cities with its countless tiny pueblos. Now, sadly, these remote villages are largely inaccessible and becoming ghost towns. What does that mean, ultimately, for Mexico as its cities continue expanding, leaving wide swaths of deserted landscape, infrastructure and stranded people in their wake?

Acting as an exploratory probe, SEFT-1 travels the abandoned railways, by now somewhat dilapidated from neglect. It uses photography, video, audio and text to record whatever’s still out there, downloading its collection of data daily to the project’s website so the public can track its findings. Regarded as one of the most important Mexican projects spanning the fields of art, technology and sociology, SEFT-1 makes its historic journey across the U.S.-Mexico border this month, stopping first at the University of Texas at El Paso and ultimately arriving in Albuquerque to be displayed at The Albuquerque Museum of Art and History through January 6. Puig and Padilla Domene will present an artist’ talk September 22 at the National Hispanic Cultural Center.

This is just one of many events in a virtual universe full of exciting projects, talks, presentations and art installations making their way to New Mexico from all corners of the world for the 18th International Symposium on Electronic Art, held September 19-24.

It’s officially titled “ISEA2012 Albuquerque: Machine Wilderness,” and the fact that this event of such gargantuan scale, with a 30-year history of significant acclaim, has chosen New Mexico as its current host is a true international honor. One of the key people making it happen is artistic director Andrea Polli, Mesa Del Sol Chair of Digital Media and Associate Professor of Art and Ecology, at UNM’s College of Fine Arts and School of Engineering.

“I’ve been to at least ten previous ISEAs,” she explains. “It’s my community.

This year, I get to have a couple hundred of my best friends come to my state!”

The phrase “machine wilderness,” coined by cultural geologist Ronald Horvath in the ‘60s, describes the destructive transformation of the American Southwestern landscape by cars and their system of highways. “Like most technical artists, I’ve struggled with the environmental cost of my art,” Andrea

“Our species will survive neither by totally rejecting nor unconditionally embracing technology—but by humanizing it.” Raindance Collective

Neil Mendoza & Anthony Goh (UK) Escape mobile phones, tree, Arduino on view at 516 ARTS for ISEA2012

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

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says. “I wanted this year’s ISEA to create a dialogue on that subject. And the work submitted for ISEA2012 reflects that.” Paraphrasing Einstein, she says, “We can’t use the same mindset to fix a problem that we used to create it.”

Of course, as Andrea points out, “Every artist makes electronic art nowadays. They all use computers, for everything from doing a Google imagery search to posting their videos.” It’s also clear that the problem isn’t just going to go away. “Technology is getting more and more ubiquitous,” she says. “How do we live with this machine wilderness we’ve created?”

That question underlies the entire theme of this upcoming symposium. In fact, right beneath the table of contents for the 50-plus page ISEA2012 directory, there’s a prominently placed quote from Edward Abbey identifying the crux of the issue: “Wilderness is not a luxury but a necessity of the human spirit, and as vital to our lives as water and good bread. A civilization which destroys what little remains of the wild, the spare, the original is cutting itself off from its origins and betraying the principle of civilization itself.”

Over 100 artists and 400 presenters will come from 29 countries to participate in the symposium and multi-site exhibition based at 516 ARTS and The Albuquerque Museum of Art and History, plus five satellite venues, including the Albuquerque International Balloon Museum and the New Mexico Museum of Natural History and Science.

There will be groundbreaking collaborations between artists and scholars with scientific and technological communities, as well as an expansive, regional collaboration, with art exhibitions, public programs and an in-depth youth education program, which continues throughout the fall. More than 65 organizations are involved, including 22 hosts of special projects such as artist-scientist residencies, site projects and youth programs.

“New Mexico, with its juxtaposition of miles and miles of wilderness alongside some of the world’s highest technology, is a great venue for this dialogue,” says Andrea. “ISEA is putting New Mexico on the world stage.” We’re leaders in navigating this conundrum, she continues, “because we’re faced with serious problems ourselves, living in the desert, having declining water issues, rising population and historical challenges such as those represented by Los Alamos. So we’re uniquely poised to address these problems, for ourselves and for the world, with the world.”

She doesn’t say we can solve the problem. “It’s more that the question of wilderness and our place in it in the 21st century, and how technology can appreciate and protect it more, are being raised as a subject for discussion in the first place.” Displayed in the ISEA2012 brochure, clearly throwing down the gauntlet, is this quote by the video collective Raindance: “Our species will survive neither by totally rejecting nor unconditionally embracing technology—but by humanizing it.”

To fully appreciate the depth and breadth of commitment these artists, scientists and technologists bring to the symposium, you really have to read through ISEA’s directory, published by the event’s lead organizer and producer 516 ARTS. The scope of projects, talks and special events will blow even the most hardened cynic’s little mind.

Suffice it to say that at this point our species needs to look at the 50

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Miwa Matreyek Myth and Infrastructure multimedia performance performed at the Anderson-Abruzzo Albuquerque International Balloon Museum during the ISEA2012 Gala

Blue Wade, Kura Puke & Matahiapo (New Zealand) “My Land My Light” data, rapid prototyping plaster ISEA2012 residency project sponsored by Intel ARTheism, presented by Wise Fool New Mexico An ISEA2012 collaboration program in Taos, September 22 & 23

Stephanie Rothenberg The Secret of Eternal Levitation Google Earth, video, custom code, mixed-media kiosk On view at 516 ARTS for ISEA2012 Ivan Puig & Andrés Padilla Domene (Mexico) SEFT-1 (Sonda de Exploración Ferroviaria Tripulada / Manned Railway Exploration Probe) on view at The Albuquerque Museum of Art & History and 516 ARTS for ISEA2012 Gambiologia Project: Fred Paulino, Lucas Mafra & Paulo Henrique Ganso (Brazil) Gambiocycle mixed media | photo by Pedro David on view at 516 ARTS for ISEA2012

world around us the same way the spacecraft Curiosity examines its surroundings on Mars—that is, not with judgment but as if all of what we see is equally wondrous, strange, poignant and fraught with possibilities.

In one project, a documentary film called Trash Dance, viewers follow a choreographer as she joins city sanitation workers on their daily routes, questioning everything, listening, learning, empathizing and ultimately persuading two dozen of them to perform—for thousands of people on an abandoned runway—a garbage truck “dance.” In the interactive installation The Good, The Bad and The Ugly, an electronic artist from the Netherlands “resuscitates” dead birds and other creatures by combining skulls, bones and feathers with microprocessors, creating hybrid animals that comment on world poverty and violence in voices taken from spaghetti westerns.

Hip-hop playwright Idris Goodwin and actors from the Tricklock Company present a live performance, Instant Messages, based on digital dialogues mined by students from social networking sites. A collective of New Mexico artists has created a wastewater garden at The Alvarado Urban Farm that gives people the opportunity to experience themselves as “living machines,” using the waste from their bodies to contribute to this Edenic, ecologically balanced space.

As part of the Latin American Forum, members of Radio Chiguiro give a presentation illustrating how, by hooking up a pirate radio transmitter with a web stream, they broadcast their own community radio station; they hope to inspire audience members to go home and create their own stations as well. Negativland’s Mark Hosler uses films and stories in his presentation “Creative Media Resistance,” illustrating the infinite ways to commit “culture jamming,” i.e. monkey-wrenching the relentless messages of consumerism with which we’re saturated from the dominant media. And, as part of the symposium’s Downtown Block Party, don’t miss the live free performance Symphony 505, commissioned by 516 ARTS, your chance of a lifetime to watch and hear a symphony concert performed by low rider cars!

There’s so much more—pre-conference events, special field trips, a Laurie Anderson concert, a sprawling list of exciting and inspiring talks, discussions, live performances, youth projects and exhibitions in a variety of venues among them the Balloon Museum and other locations in Santa Fe, Taos and beyond. This symposium was two and a half years in the making, explains Suzanne Sbarge, executive director of 516 ARTS and executive producer for ISEA2012, who, along with her tiny gallery staff, has done the lion’s share of work putting it all together (including assembling the more than one hundred jurors who juried the close to 1,500 submissions).

It’s inestimable, the effects of the synergy created by all these ingenious folks all gathered together in one place, cross-pollinating their ideas for how we can design our future to jumpstart ourselves out of stagnation. Andrea describes a research project launched in collaboration with Los Alamos and the Sandia Labs of artists collaborating with scientists “who’ve swung open their doors to their big data storage systems. There’s so much information by now that scientists are limited in their understanding of it, so they want artists to help them visualize it.”

As a guidepost for the goal of humanizing technology, another quote appears in the ISEA directory, this one from Dr. Jason Ohler: “Our imagination always outpaces our technology. The gap between the two is the distance the creative spark must jump in order to ignite our forward momentum.” The ISEA2012 Albuquerque symposium is like a humongous World’s Fair celebrating our best human impulse: to embrace what Edward Abbey called “the wild, the spare, the original” in all of us.

Get thee down to see it!

Go to www.isea2012.org for a full schedule of events, and to register for one-day or the full conference. There are also many free and ticketed events that are open to the public.

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

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s t o r y b y TA N I A C A S S E L L E photos by LENNY FOSTER

The Taos Hum

A monthly column, where writer Tania Casselle introduces us to the people who make Taos hum.

This month we’re celebrating two of the (very many) creative women at Taos Pueblo.

Jacqueline Gala

Jeralyn Lujan-Lucero

Although the customers who buy silversmith Jacqueline Gala’s jewelry wouldn’t know it (or perhaps they sense it), she gives a little blessing to each piece of her work before sending it out into the world from Taos Pueblo.

Gala’s designs are thoroughly modern, while still drawing on her Taos Pueblo and Hopi heritage. She’s received recognition at national shows, including the prominent Heard Museum Guild Indian Fair & Market, in Phoenix, but she’s still modest when she spots someone wearing her jewelry. “I get real shy, but my boyfriend gets up and says, ‘My girlfriend designed that,’” she explains. “It breaks the ice.”

Gala sometimes hangs out with artist friends at the Gorge Bar and Grill or the Taos Inn, but she and her partner, David, mostly enjoy heading into the mountains. They’ll go camping or, if they don’t feel like eating at home, “We just pick up our food and drive back in the mountains.”

She recalls recently spending an evening simply sitting and chatting on the adobe wall beneath the George Chacón mural on Kit Carson— right opposite the Copper Moon Gallery, which sells her work. “It was a beautiful evening, and just sitting in that little spot we couldn’t believe how many people saw us, waved to us, and said hi. I’ve had people from New York come into my little shop [at the Pueblo] and say they can’t believe how friendly people are.”

Gala works in the morning or late at night (when “nobody bothers you”) and appreciates that her craft allows her to enjoy a lot of spare time.

“I can sit outside my home and look up toward the mountain and say thank you.”

Taos Pueblo artist Jeralyn Lujan-Lucero is always exploring new territory in her art. Some of her paintings are embellished with real turquoise and stones, and she’s a noted sculptor of beautiful human figurines in micaceous clay, in addition to using micaceous clay more traditionally in pottery.

Today she’s keen to tell me about her latest project. “I’ve created a totally new form of jewelry,” she says and then mischievously keeps me guessing. “It’s not bracelets, it’s not earrings, it’s not bolos, it’s not pins …

It’s real sterling silver–and-turquoise fingernails!” How do they stay on?

“That’s the secret.” It’s secret enough that she’s patenting it.

Lujan-Lucero was born in Los Angeles and lived in California until she was 15 years old. “We moved back to Taos Pueblo,” she explains, “because we’re all full-blood, and this was always home.” She’s very involved with the Red Willow Farmers’ Market and the Taos Birthing Center (TBC). “I’m on the board of the TBC, because my own mother was a birthing nurse and OB. It’s who she was, and I want to be part of that. This is my way of contributing and helping the community.”

Her art also reflects the feminine. “I’m a corn dancer,” she says. “I participate in all our Indian ways of life here, but I also go to church on Sunday and receive sacrament and teach catechism. A lot of my art is the mother and child, nativities, Mother Earth, corn dancers … I think I do more of the feminine energy of a village.”

Lujan-Lucero has three children herself. “Our kids are raised traditionally, and my husband has cows and horses and grows his own alfalfa, so we have a full life.” The family enjoys eating out at Sushi a la Hattori and Guadalajara Grill. “We have so many feast days here at the pueblo. It’s great living in Taos because of the seasonal activities that come around year after year.”

Find Jacqueline Gala’s work in Taos at the Taos Pueblo, Copper Moon Gallery, El Monte Sagrado and the Taos Visitor Center, and in Santa Fe at the New Mexico Museum of History. http://jacquelinegala.com

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See Jeralyn Lujan-Lucero’s art at her Sagebrush Deer Studio/Gallery at Taos Pueblo.

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Wine & Chile 2012

New Mexico Wine Trails

In New Mexico we experience the full force of the elements: intense sun, inundating rains, sere desert air. When I explore our mountains, mesas, and valleys throughout the seasons, I’m amazed at the challenges farmers face growing crops within these extremes. The drive from the Española valley to Taos is one time that I truly appreciate New Mexico’s incredible range of landscapes. One summer I dipped in a silty bend of the Rio Grande above Taos, then drove back through Dixon admiring the apple orchards. As a friend and I stopped in at Vivac Winery to taste some wines before returning south in a monsoon shower, the valley’s green, grey, pink and terra cotta shades intensified in the rain.

s t o r y b y S A R A VA N N O T E

It’s just one of several memorable trips I’ve taken in search of culinary and cultural treasures. Now, New Mexico wineries are making it easier for me to discover fresh tastes and new landscapes.

“Unless you get off the freeway, you don’t experience the magnitude of what’s here,” says Gordon Steel, President of the New Mexico Wine Growers Association. So they’ve developed the New Mexico Wine Trails maps, highlighting wineries all over the state.

The trails lure visitors into farming areas where they not only learn about wines but also experience the remarkable diversity of New Mexico agriculture: green chile and cotton down south, fruit orchards and alfalfa up north.

And they begin to appreciate the creativity and dedication of New Mexico vintners.

Rick Hobson, of Milagro Winery in Corrales, is frank about the challenges. “Our minus is the late spring frost,” he says.

Sometimes temperatures drop as low as the 20s in the valley, threatening the new crop. At Milagro they’ve tried a variety of strategies to safeguard their vines, including spraying them with water to encase them in a protective layer of ice. But the pluses to grape cultivation in New Mexico are significant, too—the dry climate means no fungal issues and fewer insects. There’s plenty of sunlight year-round, and low precipitation means vintners can precisely control watering for optimal growth, Hobson says. So he’s enthusiastic. “We’ve shown we can make wines as good as anywhere here.” Milagro wines have garnered national awards, with their 2007 Chardonnay winning a Gold Medal from the San Francisco Chronicle.

Milagro is just one of many New Mexico wineries to receive accolades. The acclaimed sparkling wines of Gruet have taken top national prizes, and small vineyards like Black Mesa in Velarde, Ponderosa Valley in the Jemez, and Guadalupe Vineyards near Grants have also been recognized in national competitions.

They’re all among the 50-plus wineries that participate in the Wine Trails. Because wineries are clustered in corridors throughout the state, New Mexico is “perfect” for wine trails, Steel says.

Visitors can stop at vineyards within a few miles of each other in Albuquerque or Las Cruces, or link visits on longer scenic routes, like those in the Tularosa area.

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New Mexico Wine Trails The program started ten years ago, when the organization started providing free maps for visitors. Since then it has added a magazine and passport program. At each winery, guests receive a stamp after making a minimum purchase. Then they win prizes based on the number of wineries visited. Steel explains that the prizes are intended to entice new visitors. “At first they don’t know what’s here,” he says. “It becomes intriguing to them, and when they hit four or five wineries, they get hooked.”

Whether you’re a newbie wine enthusiast or hard-core oenophile, you can’t get much better than the intimate reception at a small vineyard. Hobson’s Corrales winery is vibrant with color and character. The tasting room doors are painted bright blue; head-high sunflowers and cosmos crowd the garden benches outside; and two little dogs nose up to greet you in the driveway. The Milagro label features a pig with a monocle, in homage to the winery’s pot-bellied mascot, Wilbur who made his home with the Hobsons. On a recent trip, Hobson tours us past stacked oak casks, then pours a sampling that ranges from a bright white wine to a collection of silky reds. After the tasting and a stop in the lush garden, I’m already dreaming of an autumn bike tour connecting Milagro, Corrales Winery and Acequia Vineyards and Winery, all of which are within a few miles of each other.

The Corrales wineries developed their own bike-friendly trail, which later was added to the statewide list. They’re great examples of the appeal of small vineyards, Steel says. “They bend over backwards to host you. You really have a great time.”

These young vineyards connect to a deep heritage of winemaking in the state. Catholic priests brought grapevines to the Rio Grande Valley in the 1600s for sacramental wine, flouting an official ban put in place after the cost of shipping wine from Spain became prohibitive. Despite floods, frosts and freezes, the wine industry grew steadily. By the late 1800s New Mexico was ranked fifth in the nation for wine production. Albuquerque’s Old Town was home to ten wineries, and production peaked at nearly a million gallons. Yet by 1910 barely 1700 gallons were produced, as flooding and competition from California wines decimated the wine industry. When the “flood of the century” hit the state in 1943, many historic vineyards were destroyed. It was only in the late 1970s that the industry began a rebirth.

At Milagro, Hobson says that an old Corrales family showed him a hand-drawn map of cultivated land labeled with vineyards, proof of their historic presence. His nephew David Hobson chimes in, “People say that during Prohibition, if you wanted wine you came to Corrales.” They’ve even found remnants of stills above the historic village.

Steel’s own Rio Grande Winery is in Las Cruces, near the historic production center of the Mesilla Valley. I ask him to tell me about the Las Cruces–El Paso area, which I have yet to visit. He extols the often-underappreciated beauty of the southern tier of the state. “We have huge pecan orchards. You drive through a forest for miles under a canopy. It’s so peaceful and tranquil, and people don’t realize it’s there.” East of Las Cruces, the peaks of the Organ Mountains rise steeply to nearly 9000 feet. To Steel, “they make the backdrop of Mesilla gorgeous, more spectacular than the Sandias.”

And, he tells me, each region has its own particular customs when it comes to celebrating.

“We’re just getting into rodeo season down south, and people also come out to do wine tasting.”

Steel says it’s all part of the “Southwest flavor” of enjoying the fullness of life.

I’ve found those flavors change with every season, storm and sip. It’s the sweet celebrations and unexpected challenges that make life in New Mexico so unpredictable—and so exhilarating.

Go to the website www.nmwines.com for information on New Mexico’s wonderful wineries and plan your own tour!

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Explore New Mexico’s Wine Trails VISITORS ARE WELCOME

Call ahead for tasting room hours & tour times.

New Mexico Wineries Antonito

Grants

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3

Paja

Centr Carrizozo

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10

19

25

12

Lordsburg 10

5

Ruidoso

13 Cloudcroft 17 Mtn Park 14

Fort Seldon

Mesilla

Deming

22

Hachita

2 1 La Union Sunland Park Ciudad Juarez

al

les

25

eda

Del N

Los Ranchos

orte

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30

suna

Albuquerque

Menaul

29

Lomas Central

27

Bridge

26

Roswell

Artesia

24 Hobbs

Riv er

Carlsbad 23

Las Cruces (see inset)

4

448

31

35

s Peco

Tularosa 18 8 Alamogordo

San Lorenzo

20

o

25

21

Truth or Consequences Silver City

Montano

40

Gr an de

ro

Las Cruces

Vaughn

San Antonio

ain

28

528

Paseo

40

Socorro

25

S. M

15 6 Mesilla

33 36 34

Rio Gran d e

Ave .

7

Estancia

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Alam

Clines Corners

16

University

10 9

Las Vegas 25

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Belen Mountainair

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silla Me

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Pa

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Southern

42

Albuquerque

Ra

32 Rio Rio Rancho Corrales

Santa Fe

Placitas

Los Lunas

hman

11

or mad

San Fidel 28

Northern

Mora

San Mateo

40

45 40 Ponderosa 41 39 38 37

Dixon

43 44

Los Alamos

Algodones Corrales Rio Rancho Los Ranchos

49

Clayton Springer

Angel Fire

rra

Gallup

46

Española

48 Velarde

Taos

Co

47

Embudo Cuba

50

Capulin

4th 2nd

Tres Piedras

Red River Cimarron

Golf Course

Questa

Coo

Tierra Amarilla

Blanco

Farmington

Raton

Chama

51

Rio rs Gr an de

Aztec

52

Trinidad

Unser

Shiprock

El

22. Willmon Vineyards 2801 Sudderth Dr. Ruidoso, NM 88345 (575) 630-WINE Endofthevine.com 23. Balzano Winery Trinity Hotel, 201 S Canal Carlsbad, NM 88220 (575) 234-9891 Thetrinityhotel.com 24. Cottonwood Winery 1 East Cottonwood Rd. Artesia, NM 88210 (575) 365-3141 Cottonwoodwineryllc.com 25. Pecos Flavors 305 N. Main St. Roswell, NM 88201 (575) 627-6265 Pecosflavorswinery.com 26. *Bee’s Brothers Meadery 27. Tierra Encantada Winery 1872 Five Points Rd. SW Albuquerque, NM 87105 (505) 764-9463 Tierra-encantada.com 28. Guadalupe Vineyards 188 San Jose Loop San Fidel, NM 87049 (505) 552-0082 Guadelupevineyards.com 29. St. Clair Bistro 901 Rio Grande NW Albuquerque, NM 87104 (505) 243-9916 Stclairwinery.com 30. Gruet Winery 8400 Pan American Fwy NE Albuquerque, NM 87113 (505) 821-0055 Gruetwinery.com 31. Casa Rondena 733 Chavez Rd. NW Los Ranchos Albuquerque, NM 87107 (505) 344-5911 32. Matheson Wine Co. 103 Rio Rancho Blvd. B3 Rio Rancho, NM 87124 (505) 350-6557 Mathesonwines.com 33. *Pasando El Tiempo 34. Milagro Winery 985 W. Ella Corrales, NM 87048 (505) 898-3998 Milagrowine.com 35. Corrales Winery 6273 Corrales Rd. Corrales, NM 87048 (505) 898-5165 Corraleswinery.com 36. Acequia Vineyards and Winery 240 Reclining Acres Corrales, NM 87048 (505) 264-1656 37. Anasazi Fields Winery 26 Camino de los Pueblitos Placitas, NM 87943 (505) 867-3062 Anasazifieldswinery.com 38. Casa Abril 01 Camino Abril Algodones, NM 87001 (505) 771-0208 Casaabrilvineyards.com 39. Ponderosa Valley 3171 Hwy 290 Ponderosa, NM 87044 (505) 834-7487 Ponderosawinery.com 40. *Jacona Valley 41. *Falcon Meadery 42. Vino del Corazon 235 Don Gaspar Ave., Ste 6 Santa Fe, NM 87501 (505) 216-9469 vinodelcorazon.com 43. Santa Fe Vineyards 106 N. Shining Sun Santa Fe, NM 87506 (505) 455-2826 Estrelladelnortevineyard.com 44. Estrella del Norte Vineyard 106 N. Shining Sun Santa Fe, NM 87506 (505) 455-2826 Estrelladelnortevineyard.com

Valley

1. Sunland Winery 1769 Victory Lane Sunland Park, NM, 88063 (575) 589-1214 2. La Vina Winery 4201 S Hwy 28 La Union, NM 88021 (575) 882-3987 Lavinawinery.com 3. Rio Grande Winery 5321 Hwy 28, Mile Marker 25 Las Cruces, NM 88005 (575) 524-3985 Riograndewinery.com 4. St. Clair Winery 1325 De Baca Rd. Deming, NM 88030 (575) 842-8689 Stclairwinery.com 5. Luna Rossa 3710 W. Pine St. Deming, NM 88030 (575) 544-1160 Lunarossawinery.com 6. Black Range/Vintage Wines 2461 Calle de Principal Mesilla, NM 88046 (575) 523-9463 Blackrangevineyards.com 7. Josefina’s Old Gate Cellars 2261 Calle de Guadelupe Mesilla, NM 88046 (575) 525-2620 Josephinasoldgate.com 8. Heart of the Desert 7288 Hwy 54/70 Alamogordo, NM 88310 (575) 434-0035 Heartofthedesert.com 9. St. Clair Bistro 1800 Avenida de Mesilla Las Cruces, NM 88005 (575) 524-2408 Stclairwinery.com 10. Luna Rossa 1321 Avenida de Mesilla Las Cruces, NM 88005 (575) 526-2484 Lunarossawinery.com 11. Amaro Winery 402 S. Melendres St. Las Cruces, NM 88001 (575) 527-5310 Amarowinerynm.com 12. Fort Seldon Winery 1233 Fort Seldon Rd. Las Cruces, NM 88007 (575) 647-9585 13. Arena Blanca Winery 7320 US Hwy 54/70 North Alamogordo, NM 88301 (575) 437-0602 Pistachiotreeranch.com 14. Arena Blanca Tasting Room 37 Hwy 82 Alamogordo, NM 88301 (575) 437-0602 Pistachiotreeranch.com 15. Heart of the Desert 2355 Calle de Guadelupe Mesilla, NM 88046 (575) 647-2115 Heartofthedesert.com 16. Heart of the Desert 4100 Dripping Springs Rd. Las Cruces, NM 88001 (575) 522-4100 Heartofthedesert.com 17. *Draney Orchard 18. Dos Viejos 69 Pecos Rd. Tularosa, NM 88352 (575) 585-2647 Dosviejoswines.com 19. La Esperanza 100 De La O San Lorenzo, NM 88041 (505) 259-9523 20. Tularosa Vineyards #23 Coyote Canyon Rd. Tularosa, NM 88352 (575) 585-2260 Tularosavineyards.com 21. Noisy Water 2372 Sudderth Dr. Ruidoso, NM 88345 (575) 257-9335 Rellenobros.com

El Paso

Map by Jan Underwood, Information Illustrated, 2011

10

Legend Interstate Highway Federal Highway State Highway

45. Don Quixote Winery State Road 4 Los Alamos, NM 87544 (505) 695-0817 Dqdistillery.com 46. Black Mesa Winery 1502 State Hwy 68 Velarde, NM 87582 (800) 852-6372 Blackmesawinery.com 47. Vivac Winery 2075 State HWY 68 Dixon, NM 87531 (505) 579-4441 Vivacwinery.com 48. La Chiripada Winery Hwy 75 Dixon, NM 87527 (505) 579-4437 Lachiripada.com

International Boundary State Line

Wine Trail

52 Wineries See list on opposite page

0

5

Scale in Miles 10 25 15

50

49. *Ritchie-Slater 50. La Chiripada Tasting Room 103 Bent St. Taos, NM 87571 (575) 751-1311 Lachirpada.com 51. Wines of the San Juan 233 Hwy 551 @Turley Blanco, NM 87412 (505) 632-0879 Winesofthesanjuan.com 52. St. Clair Bistro 5150 E. Main St. Farmington, NM 87491 (505) 325-0711 Stclairwinery.com *Non-Members

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1-TAMALE PIE

1-Quart of Beans CASSEROLE (pork, chicken or cheese) 1-Quart of Rice 3538 Zafarano Dr Four Tamales 8-Flautas 473-3454 (roast beef or chicken) Mon-Sat 7am-9pm Six Tortillas Sun 8am-8pm Either 1-Quart of Beans Your One, 1-Two Liter Choice Pepsi or ONLY 1-Quart of Rice Diet Pepsi 1-Two Liter Pepsi or Diet Pepsi www.santafetamales.com $

25.99 27.99

$

(a 15.00 Savings!)

RESTAURANT

COUPON

70 WEST MARCY STREET SANTA FE 505.982.1399 www.wearaboutssf.com wearaboutssf@yahoo.com

One coupon per person, per order.

Cannot be used with any other discounts or promotion. Must present coupon when ordering. Excludes tamale or catering purchases. Expires 09/30/12 8/31/11

15% OFF On total order of $6 or more.

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

CATERING

COUPON

One coupon per person, per order.

Cannot be used with any other discounts or promotion. Must present coupon when ordering. Expires Expires 09/30/12 8/31/11

15% OFF

Any catering order of $45 or more.

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Who’s who

Photo: Kate Russell

Wine & Chile 2012

1 Preciliano Ruiz Chef Acting Chef 2 Miqueas Cehote 3 Aaron Roth Kitchen Mgr. 4 Ryan Gabel Exec. Chef 5 Amaury B. Torres Chef, owner 6 Pat Shaughnessy Chef 7 Miguel Gutierres Sous Chef 8 Estevan Garcia Exec. Chef Sous Chef 9 Edisson Delgado* 10 Leonard Trejo Exec. Chef 11 Germán Rivera Sous Chef 12 Lane Warner Exec. Chef 13 Peter P. Vigil Banquet Chef 14 Joshua Ortiz PM Sous Chef 15 Eduardo Rodriguez Exec. Sous Chef 16 Javier Alejandro Ibarra Sous Chef 17 Jose L. Rodriguez Exec. Sous Chef ** Head Cook 18 Carlos Alvarado *** 19 Juan Antonio Rovalcaba Head Cook 20 Jeffrey Kaplan Exec. Chef 21 Candelario Gonzalez Chef

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Café Pasqual’s 23 Mariano Martinez Café Café 24 Israel Celote Palace Restaurant 25 Christopher McLean Palace Restaurant 26 John Fleming Babaluu’s Cucina Cubana 27 Agusto “Titin” Delprado Babaluu’s Cucina Cubana 28 Marco Aguilar Tabla de los Santos 29 Joelle Hopwood Tabla de los Santos 30 Santiago Caja Campos Tabla de los Santos 31 Ruben Terrazas Garbos at RainbowVision 32 Xavier Grenet Garbos at RainbowVision 33 Pablo Perez La Fonda 34 Carlos Gonzales La Fonda 35 Fernando Flores La Fonda 36 Alejandro Hernandez Coyote Café 37 Julio Cabrera La Boca 38 Juan Bochenski La Boca 39 Tom Kerpon Restaurant Martin 40 Carmen Rodriguez Restaurant Martin 41 Mary Loya Castle Ranch Steak House 42 Alexander Cuffee Marias NM Kitchen 43 Angela Ortiz

magazine.com

Sous Chef Pastry Chef Exec. Chef Sous Chef Chef d’Cuisine PM Chef PM Chef Sous Chef Sous Chef Chef Line cook Line cook Kitchen Mgr. Sous Chef Sous Chef Exec. Chef Chef Exec. Chef Sous Chef Line Chef Sous Chef

Bistro 315 Bistro 315 Las Fuentes at Bishops Lodge Las Fuentes at Bishops Lodge Bistro 315 La Posada La Posada Azur Ristra Ristra, Azur Jinja Jinja Jinja Inn of the Anasazi Inn of the Anasazi Inn of the Anasazi Tanti Luce 221 La Posada de Santa Fe La Posada de Santa Fe Rooftop Pizzeria Rooftop Pizzeria

44 Rueben Reyes Exec. Chef Rooftop Pizzeria 45 Marcos Herrera Line Chef Rooftop Pizzeria 46 Chuy Torres**** Sous Chef Ore House at Milagro Exec. Chef Ore House at Milagro 47 Carlos Hernandez† 48 Brett Sparman Exec. Chef Luminaria 49 Mike Grover Sous Chef Luminaria 50 Jose Chavez PM Line Chef Rooftop Pizzeria 51 Jaime Villalobos Sous Chef Geronimo 52 Steven Lemon Chef, owner O Eating House Exec. Chef Quail Run 53 Deena Chafetz 54 Noè Cano Kitchen Mgr. SF School of Cooking 55 Hyunsook Lee Owner Izmi Sushi 56 Omar Hamid Sous Chef Izmi Sushi 57 Brent Jung Owner Izmi Sushi 58 Mario Mendoza Sous Chef Coyote Café 59 Kim Müller Chef de Cuisine Compound Chef The Lodge at Santa Fe 60 Jen Doughty†† 61 Genovevo Rivera Chef El Farol 62 Gus Macias‡ Chef Tortilla Flats 63 Ahmed Obo Chef, Owner Jambo Café 64 Rene Guerra Line Chef Tortilla Flats 65 Tracy Ritter Culinary Director SF School of Cooking Exec. Chef Osteria d’Assisi 66 Cristian Pontiggia 67 Francisco Aguilar, Jr. Exec. Chef Pizzeria da Lino 68 Ramon Torres Sous Chef Osteria d’Assisi Sous Chef Las Fuentes at Bishops Lodge 69 Zachary Perron 70 Ever Paz Sous Chef El Farol Exec. Pastry Chef Luminaria 71 Andrea Clover†* Chef SF Bar & Grill 72 Carlos Rivas 73 Andy Barnes Chef, Owner Dinner 4 2 74 Ricardo Rodriguez Cook Steaksmith 75 Saúl Valtierra Padilla Exec. Chef Gabriel’s Restaurant Chef de Cuisine Old House 76 Evan Doughty 77 Tony Smith Exec. Chef Old House Exec. Chef The Ranch House 78 Alex Christensen Sous Chef The Ranch House 79 Veronica Bonnelly Kitchen Mgr. Steaksmith 80 Alfredo Pichardo Line cook Pizzeria da Lino 86 Edgar B Mgr. - Chef SF Capitol Grill 90 David Reyes Sous Chef Coyote Café 91 Benjamin Ruiz

excellence. elegance. generosity.

meet me at 221...

221 Shelby St. • Santa Fe 505.988.2355 • www.tantiluce221.com

house of ancestors ANTIQUES & INTERIORS

Not pictured: Russell Johnson Victor Medina Christina Guerra Ruben Tanuz

Banquet Chef Chef Asst. Pastry Chef Sous Chef

Row 2, center, number not visible Row 4, 4th from left; number not visible *** Row 3, 7th from left; number not visible **** Row 4, 3rd from left; number not visible † Row 3, 8th from left; number not visible †† Row 4, in front of 31; number not visible ‡ Row 4, behind #35; number not visible †* Row 4; number not visible *

Terra at Four Seasons San Fran. St. Bar & Grill Terra at Four Seasons Terra at Four Seasons

Antique Furnishings, Folk Art, Ceramics & Devotional Art from All of the Americas

**

307 Pino Road, Santa Fe Directly behind Kaune’s Market on Old Santa Fe Trail 505.490.2653 • houseofancestors @ gmail.com Monday through Saturday 10:30 – 5:30 pm or by Appointment

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& Blue Corn Brewery is hosting their Second Annual BIG OL’ COOKOUT September 15, 2012 from 1 – 5 PM TICKETS ON SALE AT BLUE CORN BREWERY 4056 CERRILLOS RD | 505.438.1800 or at http://www.ticketssantafe.org/tsf Tickets are $25 per adult and $5 per child all proceeds benefit: Esperanza Shelter FAMILY FUN FOR ALL RAFFLE TICKETS FOR A BIG OL’ GAS GRILL !

DOOR PRIZES LIVE MUSIC FOOD Thank you to all of our generous sponsors and donors!

The Perfect Place For Any Occasion!

Let us host your next dinner, business meeting or reception.

Our intimate dining spaces can accommodate 15 to over 100 guests.

10 Vintage

$ FOR EVERYONE

The BIGGEST Used Boot Store Around!

cowboy/cowgirl

Shirts

Home of the $99 boots!

Home the Find the perfectof pair for $99 Wineboots & Chile Fiesta.

5000 Pairs of new & happily used boots for men, women and kids.

Plus hats, skirts and lots more.

VOT

TOP ED 3!

KOWBOYZ KOWBOYZ

“A First-Class Second-Hand Western Store” Open Daily from 11am till closing 414 Old Santa Fe Trail, Santa Fe, NM 87501 (505)955-0765 | RioChamaSteakhouse.com

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345 W. Manhattan | Santa Fe, NM | (505) 984-1256 Across from the Train Station | Open Every Day kowboybootz@hotmail.com | www.kowboyz.com

Lunas Co s o L & & r

Corral e

s p Pum kin Patch

CORN MAZE • PETTING ZOO • OBSERVATION BRIDGE

Wagner’s Far m land Experience

aze nM

PUMPKIN PATCH • HAY RIDE • PONY RIDES • FARM FUN

& Pumpkin Patch

Sept. 15 - October 31, 2012

Open Daily 9-6, Saturdays open till 10:00 pm for night maze Admission: $5.50 ( ages 3-11) $7.50 (12 and up) pumpkins purchased separately

505-459-0719

wagnersfarmlandexperience.com

Two locations:

6445 Corrales Rd. Corrales • 1420 Desert Willow Rd. Los Lunas

Premier Office & Retail Park Pacheco Park is home to some of Santa Fe’s most creative businesses who are leaders in design.

Santa Fe Modern Home Santa Fe By Design Annie O’Carroll Accessory Annex Victoria Price FOUR Form + Function Dragon Rising - Yoga Studio Ritual Hair Skin & Nails Momentum Physical Therapy TKO Advertising Local Flavor Floorscapes Design Connection New Water Innovations United Stoneworks Trattel Court Reporting Tierra Concepts, Inc. D Maahs Construction Southwest Spanish Craftsmen Ernest Thompson Furniture

Contemporary Jazz Chill - Latin Guitar Music You Won’t Find Anywhere Else in New Mexico!!

Listen on-line: 1037theoasis.com or on your radio: FM 103.7 and join us on

Call Us to View Spaces •Cutting Edge Design •Flexible Floor Plans •Sm. & Lg. Spaces Avail.

1512 Pacheco Street . Suite D206 . Santa Fe . New Mexico . 87505 Contact: Eric Faust | Eric@TierraConceptsSantaFe.com | 505.780.1159

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2012

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A

Still

Hungry? s t o r y b y M E LY S S A H O L I K

h, New Mexican food! It’s a shared culture, a source of state pride and sometimes a test of gastronomic fortitude. Former residents hanker for it, and current residents savor it. All New Mexicans cherish it. In Tasting New Mexico: Recipes Celebrating One Hundred Years of Distinctive Home Cooking, Cheryl and Bill Jamison beautifully capture this fondness for New Mexican cuisine. The superbly selected recipes honor the traditions, methods, ingredients and—most importantly—the people that have formed our food heritage. Whether it’s the familiar intoxicating aroma of carnitas on the Santa Fe Plaza or a nearly forgotten slice of culinary history, the book easily captures the qualities that make New Mexican fare beloved by so many.

Roque’s Beef Carnitas © Greenfire

Pork is the most common meat for carnitas in New Mexico and the rest of the borderlands, but many cooks also make a stellar rendition with beef. This is the popular version that Roque Garcia and his wife, Mona Cavalli, have served for decades from their street cart on the Santa Fe Plaza. The couple credits Roque’s mother for the original home recipe, which Roque recommends duplicating in other home kitchens in the following manner. He calls for an overnight marinating for the meat, but we have had good results with as little as a half-hour soak when rushed.

Serves 4 1 ½ pounds boneless sirloin or top round steak, cut across the grain into 1/8-inch strips 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 1 large onion, sliced thin 5 fresh mild New Mexican green chiles, sliced into very thin rounds 4 thick flour tortillas, warmed Marinade 6 tablespoons vegetable oil 6 tablespoons soy sauce 1 tablespoon crumbled dried Mexican oregano 4 garlic cloves, minced © Christopher Meder

Mona’s Salsa 2 medium tomatoes, diced 1 small onion, chopped 2 to 6 fresh jalapeños, chopped fine 2 tablespoons minced cilantro, optional 2 garlic cloves, minced salt, optional For marinade 1. The night before you plan to cook, place the beef strips in a gallon Ziplock bag. Combine the marinade ingredients in a bowl and pour it over the beef.

Refrigerate covered for as long as you can manage, up to 24 hours.

For salsa 1. The day you plan to cook, stir together the salsa ingredients in a bowl. Add salt if you wish, keeping in mind that the soy sauce in the meat marinade gives a good bit of salty tang to the dish. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Assembly 1. Drain the beef strips, discarding the marinade.

2. In a large heavy wok or cast-iron skillet, warm half of the oil over high heat until it just begins to smoke. Add half of the beef and stir-fry, tossing almost constantly, until browned well, about 2 minutes. Repeat with the remaining oil and meat. Transfer the meat to a plate as the strips get deeply colored.

3. Reduce the heat under the skillet to medium and add the onion and chile. Cook until softened and charred in a few spots, stirring almost constantly. Return the meat to the skillet and toss with the vegetables.

4. Using tongs, lift about ¼ of the meat mixture from the skillet, getting a balanced mix of meat and vegetables. Allow excess juices to drip back into the skillet.

Fill a tortilla. Repeat with remaining beef mixture and tortillas. Top with salsa and serve right away. Pick the tortilla up and fold it upward like a taco to devour.

Working ahead: In addition to marinating the beef a day ahead, you can slice the onions and chiles and wrap them tightly to store overnight in the refrigerator.

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Chicos

Usually made with young “green” field corn, chicos are typically slowroasted in outdoor horno ovens and then dried on rooftops. Farmers start a wood fire in the horno, and when the oven walls reach the right temperature, they rake out the embers with a hoe, place moistened corn in its husks inside, seal the door and vent hole, and leave the corn to roast overnight. The ears emerge the next morning with a prized light smokiness. In many areas chicos have become a nearly lost classic, only available at some farmers’ markets, old-fashioned general stores, and specialty shops like the Santa Fe School of Cooking, but they are definitely worth a major search effort. When dried, they keep well for months, and when cooked the chicos burst with smoky, slightly chewy goodness, offering a quite different taste and texture than posole.

Serves 8 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 medium onions, minced 4 garlic cloves, minced 1 ¾ to 2 cups chicos 1 teaspoon salt, or more to taste 2 bay leaves, optional 6 cups chicken stock ½ cup chopped roasted mild green New Mexican chile, fresh or thawed frozen

1. In a large saucepan or Dutch oven, warm the oil over medium heat. Stir in the onions and garlic and sauté until soft, 8 to 10 minutes.

2. Add the chicos, salt, optional bay leaves, and stock, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook uncovered for 1 ½ to 2 hours, or until the chicos are well softened and have lost their raw, starchy flavor. They will remain a little chewy and crunchy. Add water if the chicos begin to dry out. Add the chile and a little more salt if needed and cook for another 15 to 20 minutes. The chicos should have some liquid but should not be extremely soupy.

3. Serve hot in small bowls with some of the liquid or drain with a slotted spoon and serve plated beside other dishes.

Variations: We tend to like the subtle corn flavor without meat, but beef short ribs or cubed lamb stew meat are not uncommon additions.

Cooked chicos can be mixed half and half with pinto beans or other varieties of beans, or added to soups or stews.

Fresh Goat Cheese with Green Chile Chutney

This chutney evolved from a recipe in Lucy Delgado’s important 1979 book Comidas de New Mexico. She like the relish, as she called it, with hamburgers, hot dogs, and meat loaf, but it also makes a splendid accompaniment to the simple cheeses once made regularly at home.

Serves 6 or more Green Chile Chutney ¾ cup cider or white vinegar ¾ cup sugar ½ medium onion, minced ½ teaspoon yellow mustard seed ¼ teaspoon salt pinch of ground cumin 1 ½ cups chopped roasted New Mexican green chile, fresh or defrosted frozen 10 to 12 ounces creamy fresh goat cheese, preferably New Mexican, softened crackers For the chutney 1. Combine the vinegar, sugar, onion, mustard seed, salt, and cumin in a saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes. Stir in the green chile and continue cooking for about 10 minutes longer, until thickened and jammy. Cool.

Assembly 1. Either pour the chutney over the cheese or serve it in a bowl on a platter with the cheese. Accompany with the crackers.

Working ahead: The chutney can be made up to 2 weeks ahead if spooned into a sterilized jar and refrigerated.

Chimayó Cocktail

Apples thrive as a crop through the north-central area of the state, from Velarde and Dixon down through Peña Blanca. Farmers lost many trees in 1971 when temperatures sank well below zero, but growers replanted and have managed to produce crisp refreshing fruit in spite of drought, wind, and other travails.

When the Rancho de Chimayó Restaurante opened in the 1960s, the Jaramillo family owners wanted to create a cocktail flavored with the cherished local apples. They paired it with tequila, the state’s favorite spirit, and produced this wonderful result. It’s still the restaurant’s signature drink and popular in plenty of other establishments and at home parties as well.

© Junkgirl

Serves 1 Ice cubes 1 ½ ounces premium gold tequila 1 ½ ounces apple cider, preferably unfiltered ¼ ounce fresh lemon juice ¼ ounce créme de cassis unpeeled apple slice, for garnish

1. Half fill an 8-ounce glass with ice cubes. Pour all of the ingredients over the ice and stir to blend. Garnish the rim of the glass with the apple slice and serve.

Tasting New Mexico: Recipes Celebrating One Hundred Years of Distinctive Home Cooking (Museum of New Mexico Press) is currently available at local bookstores.

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

JUNE 2012

65

22nd AnnuAl

Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta september 26—30, 2012

Grand Tasting 70 Fabulous Santa Fe Restaurants & 95 World-Class Wineries Saturday September 29th

res tAurAnt & Winery dinner schedule Wednesday, september 26 315 Restaurant & Wine Bar & Drouhin (Burgundy/Oregon) (505) 986-9190 Andiamo & Wines of Tuscany-Empson 995-9595 Joe’s Dining & Galante 471-3800 Restaurant Martin & Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 820-0919 Rooftop Pizzeria & Freemark Abbey 984-0008 Santa Fe Bar & Grill & Ferrari Carano 982-3030 thursday, september 27 Café Café & King Estate Winery 989-1730 Castle Ranch Steak House & Irony 473-2800 Dinner for Two & Banfi 820-2075 El Farol & Gonzalez Byass & Beronia 983-9912 Fuego at La Posada & J. Lohr 986-0000 Inn of the Anasazi & Hess Family Estates 988-3030 La Casa Sena & Elk Cove 988-9232 La Plazuela at La Fonda & Merryvale 995-2316 Las Fuentes at Bishop’s Lodge & Justin 983-6377 Luminaria at Inn at Loretto & Calera 984-7915 O Eating House & Thomas Fogarty 455-2000 Old House at Eldorado Hotel & Mumm Napa 988-4455

thursday, september 27 Osteria d’Assisi & Antinori 986-5858 Red Sage at Buffalo Thunder & Frog’s Leap 819-2056 Restaurant Martin & Cakebread 820-0919 Taberna La Boca & Tikal, La Posta, Reginato 982-3433 Tanti Luce 221& Wines of Northern Italy-Winebow 988-2355 The Club at Quail Run & Stonestreet 986-2200 The Compound & Jordan 982-4353 The Palace Tapas & Wine & San Francisco Wine Exchange 428-0690 Tomme & Tangent 820-2253 Friday, september 28 315 Restaurant & Wine Bar & Grgich Hills Estate 986-9190 Café Pasqual’s & Alma Rosa 983-9340 Izmi Sushi & Van Duzer 424-1311 Old House at Eldorado Hotel & Robert Mondavi Reserves 995-4530 Osteria d’Assisi & Barolo-Empson 986-5858 Pranzo Italian Grill & Francis Ford Coppola 984-2645 Tabla de los Santos & Wines of Spain 992-5863 The Palace & Zaca Mesa 428-0690

Schedule & Tickets www.santafewineandchile.or g 505-438-8060

“The Compound Restaurant’s contemporary American cuisine is derived from Santa Fe’s rich heritage of regional and Mediterranean influences. Zacatecas is an extension of culinary traditions from central Mexico. Offering something authentic and new has always been my vision.”

— Chef Mark Kiffin, James Beard Award Best Chef of the Southwest

ONE AWARD WINNING CHEF TWO RESTAURANTS

A Santa Fe Landmark on Canyon Road

An authentic Mexican Taqueria in Nob Hill, Albuquerque

The Compound Restaurant features seasonal contemporary American cuisine with impeccable service in an historic adobe building designed by Alexander Girard. Offering an extensive list of world class wine, a full bar, picturesque garden patios, elegant dining spaces and private dining rooms for special events, The Compound Restaurant is a destination for a memorable Santa Fe experience.

Chef Kiffin’s latest culinary concept, Zacatecas, is named for a region in central Mexico known for its classic, cross cultural blend of foods and recipes.

Zacatecas offers a selection of Mexican specialties with fresh, organic ingredients and a Margarita bar featuring Tequilas, Mezcal, and beer exclusively from Mexico.

Lunch: Monday through Saturday 11:30 AM to 2 PM Dinner Daily: 5:30 PM – close Bar Daily: 5 PM to close • Bar menu available

Zacatecas offers all day dining daily Lunch: Monday through Saturday 11:30 AM to 4 PM Sunday Noon to 4 PM Dinner: Monday through Saturday 4 PM to 10 PM Sunday 4 PM to 9 PM

653 Canyon Road, Santa Fe 505.982.4353 www.compoundrestaurant.com

3423 Central Avenue (Amherst & Central Avenues) 505.255.TACO (8226) www.zacatecastacos.com

C E L E B R AT E S OU R

25t h

ANNIVERSARY JOIN US FOR A THREE NIGHT CELEBRATION OCTOBER 12-14 CALL FOR DETAILS

132 W WATER ST

(505) 983-1615