September 2015 v2 working

&

WineChile

25 Years SEPTEMBER 2015

A TAS T E OF LI FE I N N EW MEX ICO

SANTA FE | ALBUQUERQUE | TAOS

Eloisa_LocalFlavorAd.pdf

J O HN

2

8/24/15

RI V ERA

12:28 PM

SEDL A R’ S

M O D E R N S O U T H W E S T C U I S I N E

TONY MALMED JEWELRY ART

2 2 8 E A S T PA L AC E AV E | S A N TA F E , N E W M E X I C O

F O R R E S E R VAT I O N S 5 0 5 . 9 8 2 .0 8 8 3

108 Don Gaspar • Santa Fe 505-988-9558 • info@spiritoftheearth.com

santa fe concorso local flavor half ad 01.qxp 8/24/15 12:13 PM Page 1

T H E S O U T H W E S T ’ S P R E M I E R A U TO M OT I V E G AT H E R I N G™ Friday, Sept. 25, 1:00–2:30 p.m.

Legends of Racing—Luigi Chinetti, Jr. presents Ferrari coming to America. Santa Fe Municipal Airport, Hangar K. $20 at the door

Friday, Sept. 25, 5:00–8:00 p.m.

Friday Night Gathering—Vintage cars and airplanes; music, food, and spirits. Santa Fe Municipal Airport, Hangar K. $150 vip

Saturday, Sept. 26, 8:00–10:00 a.m.

Mountain Tour for entrants, leaving from the Santa Fe Plaza to Canyon Road and beyond.

Free to the public

Sunday, Sept. 27, 10:00 a.m.–3:30 p.m.

World-class Cars, Motorcycles and Bicycles; Concept Cars; Ferraris; Coddington Hot Rod. Held on the grounds at The Club at Las Campanas.

$150 vip, $50 general admission, $25 youth, under 12 free

MICHAEL FURMAN

2

SEPTEMBER 2015

VISIT SANTAFECONCORSO.COM FOR INFORMATION, SCHEDULE, AND TICKETS. The Santa Fe Concorso is an all-volunteer 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization.

magazine.com

inside:

The Buzz

by Kelly Koepke 10 What’s new, what’s out, what’s hot, what’s not—not just another calendar!

The Art Buzz

by Kelly Koepke 12 Art happenings from Albuquerque to Taos carefully selected for Local Flavor readers.

The Big Buzz

by James Selby 14 You’re kidding? Another buzz? Ah, it’s the once-a-year-only restaurant buzz especially for the Wine and Chile folks...... that makes it okay.

The Culinary Farmer...... a Restaurant Revolution

by Gordon Bunker 21

The most significant trend on the American culinary scene today doesn’t start in the kitchen—it starts when the chef and his farmer put their heads together and plan a menu. Join us in the garden at Arroyo Vino to see how it’s being done right here in New Mexico.

On Stage at the Lensic

by Patty and Michelle 26

Join the chefs at their annual photo-shoot party, where Local Flavor is the lucky host.

Finding Your Creative Self

by Melyssa Holik 34

Each year, “...aspiring photographers, beginning hobbyists and emerging professionals from thousands of miles away make the pilgrimage to the [Santa Fe Photographic] Workshops.” Let’s sign up.

Still Roasting and Crushing .... 25 Years Later

by Greg O’Byrne 40

A nostalgic look back at the very first Wine and Chile Fiesta. Local Flavor toasts the visionaries who put Santa Fe’s culinary scene on the map!

Who’s Who on the Cover

by Michelle Moreland 42

Who do you know? Who do you love?

Tuesdays at the Park

by Emily Ruch 46

Neighbors around Hyder Park gravitate to this grassy oasis each Tuesday to enjoy a lazy summer night together. It’s an old-timey picnic supper, Albuquerque-style.

I Heard It On the Grapevine

by Erin Brooks 50

The inside scoop on what’s happening in the wine world, straight from Erin Brooks, one of Local Flavor’s favorite wine writers who’s now in Napa at Ad Lib. Stop in and say hi, but be sure to bring a few chiles along—you know how homesick New Mexicans get.

Still Hungry?

by Caitlin Richards 54 Four great wineries. Four great recipes. Four customized pairings. And one exhausted food writer—can you believe she tested each one in her own kitchen? Well, the pairings I can believe....

4

SEPTEMBER 2015

magazine.com

ON OUR COVER:

Chefs of the 2015 Wine & Chile Fiesta

A Taste of Life in New Mexico SEPTEMBER 2015 PUBLISHERS Patty & Peter Karlovitz

EDITOR Patty Karlovitz

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Michelle Moreland

ART DIRECTOR Jasmine Quinsier

WEB EDITOR Melyssa Holik

COPY EDITOR Mia Rose Poris

Your Albuquerque Source for Wine, Spirits, and Craft Beers 3512 Lomas Blvd NE • (505) 255-4404 • info@jubilationwines.com jubilationwines.com

Hard to believe, but this was my first time experiencing the Santa Fe Opera!

Here I am, front and center getting excited for Salome. I went to see the premier of Cold Mountain a week later. I’m hooked!

PREPRESS Scott Edwards

AD DESIGN Alex Hanna

ADVERTI S I NG SANTA FE Lianne Aponte 629.6544 Kate Collins 470.6012

ALBUQUERQUE Sheridan Johnson 917.975.4732

COVER PHOTO

International Nouvelle Cuisine inspired by Chef Mark Connell

Joy Godfrey

Husband, Farmer Jim, planted extra rows in our garden for the Food Depot. Now ready to deliver some of our bounty.

WRITERS

Reunited with my former student, and future all-star journalist! They grow up so fast!

Erin Brooks Gordon Bunker Melyssa Holik Kelly Koepke Greg O’Byrne Caitlin Richards Emily Ruch James Selby

PHOTOGRAPHERS

 Opening Soon  86 Old Las Vegas Highway • Santa Fe, New Mexico 87505 505.690.5977 • www.fablessantafe.com

6

SEPTEMBER 2015

magazine.com

Gaelen Casey Joy Godfrey Stephen Lang Gabriella Marks Kate Russell

223 North Guadalupe #442 | Santa Fe, NM 87501 Tel: 505.988.7560 | www.localflavormagazine.com Subscriptions $30 per year. Mail check to above address.

© Edible Adventure Co.‘96. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be used without the permission of Edible Adventure Co. Local Flavor accepts advertisements from advertisers believed to be reputable, but can’t guarantee it. All editorial information is gathered from sources understood to be reliable, but printed without responsibility for erroneous, incorrect, or omitted information.

Enkuan Bedehna Metachew

Authentic Flavors of Ethiopia in Santa Fe, NM

Welcome to Over 50 unique stores, restaurants and theater North Guadalupe & Paseo de Peralta • Free Parking! • Walking Distance from Railyard & Plaza 505-982-2655 • devargascenter.com

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2015

7

Letter Photo: Stephen Lang

On Stage at the Lensic!

tattoos, see who’s looking for a new job, take selfies and just hang out. No one works harder than these people. No one deserves a day in the sun more than these chefs—or in this case, an Celebrities from around the world grace afternoon in the limelight on the legendary stage of the Lensic. If there’s one party in the world I want to host, it’s this one....and if there’s one cover I love to share with our readers, it is positively this stage...but on a hot day in early this one.

August the Lensic was alive and teeming

Inside, you’ll find lots of party pictures, plus the always-popular Big Buzz where we cover with the energy of nearly 100 celebrities the entire year of culinary highlights—because of course, there’s never a dull moment (or year) in of a different kind—Santa Fe’s finest this town when it comes to restaurants. Of special note this year is the celebration of Wine and chefs. They gathered from downtown, Chile Fiesta’s 25th anniversary. Long-time Fiesta director, Greg O’Byrne, shares a poignant scene midtown, south of town and way out of from the very first Wine and Chile in the parking lot of Sanbusco Market Center. Greg worked town. A chance to see their tribe all in the Coyote Café booth that day, “flipping griddled corn cakes,” and witnessing the birth of what one place. A time to talk smack, compare would become one of the most celebrated food and wine festivals in the country.

Each year, Local Flavor also puts the spotlight on what we feel is a significant event or trend, or a change emerging in the culinary community. We look for something that we feel has the potential to be both transformative for our local restaurant scene as well fit in with what is happening elsewhere. This year, we highlight the increased interest that chefs have in being hands-on players in the food-growing process. It is, of course, the logical and natural next step to buying locally and thinking sustainably. Our Farmers’ Market is consistently rated in the top 10 in the nation, and for good reason. But that next step—from shopper and consumer to actually planning your own garden for your restaurant with your own dedicated farmer—is a giant step. And evidently, it is also an enormously satisfying one that changes the way a chef looks at everything, not just a menu. We focused on one chef, Colin Shane of Arroyo Vino, but there are many more, and the number climbs with every growing season.

Albuquerque brings us even further ‘down to earth’ as we share in a charming neighborhood tradition known as Tasty Tuesday. It’s a once-a-week happening at a sweet little park in the Southeast Heights—simple picnic suppers, a few local food trucks and lots of green grass for the dogs and the kids to run in. The simplicity of it all reminds us of the real reason we break bread together. It’s fun. And it nourishes us in every way.

I haven’t given it all away, there’s even more to enjoy. Now, no distractions, just sit back and savor the flavor.

| Patty with Al Lucero, The Grand Pooh-Bah of Wine and Chile

8

SEPTEMBER 2015

magazine.com

it’s closer than you think..

Local ingredients, served locally. We seek out the freshest, seasonal organic produce, meats and fish.

Then we serve it up with flair and attentive service right in your neighborhood. Join locals supporting locals. Deliciously.

OLD TOWN ALBUQUERQUE 505.766.5100 www.seasonsabq.com

HISTORIC NOB HILL

ALBUQUERQUE HEIGHTS

505.254.ZINC(9462)

505.294.WINE(9463)

www.zincabq.com

www.savoyabq.com

The Old Windmill Dairy in Estancia, NM.

ALBUQUERQUE, SANTA FE 505.850.2459 www.tasteabq.com

. .truly local.

ALBUQUERQUE Kudos to the 21 New Mexico restaurants, recognized for their extensive and representative wine lists, in Wine Spectator’s annual ratings. Albuquerque’s well represented by local favorites La Merienda at Los Poblanos Historic Inn and Organic Farm, Marcello’s Chophouse, The Artichoke Cafe, Blades’ Bistro and the Ranchers Club of New Mexico. Raise a glass and celebrate!

Labor Day may mark the unofficial end of summer, but that’s no reason to be sad. Head to the all-new New Mexico Wine & Jazz Festival at Isleta Resort and Hotel, where fine wines, delicious food and some of the best jazz artists around will celebrate in the air-conditioned comfort of the ballrooms. September 5–7, oenophiles and jazz lovers can sample a multitude of offerings from New Mexico top wineries, enjoy local culinary creations and incredible art, and purchase their favorites to take home, while hearing exquisite jazz artists like Bert Dalton Trio, Jackie Zamora’s Brazilian Quartet, Patty Stephens Quartet, Tropicalia, and Saudade (among others). Visit WineCountryNM. com.

the

The feel of fall is definitely in the air, sparked by the aroma of roasting chiles. Need another reason to head to Bookworks on September 15 than a signing of New Mexico Chiles: History Legend and Lore by local author and Santa Fe native Kelly Urig? Known as “Chile Chica,” Urig is an award-winning documentary filmmaker, too, and her new book is an enchanting history of the fruit we can’t live without. Head to bkwrks.com for details and to purchase the book.

photo: globalquerque.org

Another sure sign of fall is when ¡Globalquerque! takes over the whole campus of the National Hispanic Cultural Center on September 25 and 26 for the 11th time! A co-production of AMP Concerts and Avokado Artists, each night features three stages of artists from around the world. And don’t forget the free Global Fiesta on Saturday from 10:30 a.m. to 4 p.m.! There are workshops, movies, lectures, food and of course, music from around the globe. Highlights include artists from Honduras, Pakistan, Mali, Columbia, Estonia and New Mexico. Info on the complete line up (which includes Joy Harjo—yes, that Joy Harjo) and tickets at globalquerque. org.

| Joy Harjo (Mvskoke Nation) 10

SEPTEMBER 2015

And speaking of the National Hispanic Cultural Center, their restaurant has a familiar-sounding name. M’Tucci’s Cocina Grill features all cuisine from Peru, Argentina, Brazil, Mexico and the Caribbean, from the excellent team that brought us Italian done right with M’Tucci’s Kitchina and M’Tucci’s Market and Deli. It’s the perfect place to have dinner before a show, and enjoy a drink before or after you start your evening with, we hear, a great happy hour. The patio’s a pretty nice place to enjoy our New Mexico sky, too. Open Thursday through Saturday from 4 to 10; visit mtuccis.com for details.

Lee Liggett (they raise the alpacas, turn the fleece into a felted fabric.) Head to whispirit.net for more, and to support this local venture that’s making a splash on the national scene. Go Whispirit!

Mark your calendar for October 5, when Los Poblanos Historic Inn & Organic Farm prepares a cooking demo and lunch in celebration of Nancy Singleton Hashisu’s new book, Preserving the Japanese Way: Traditions of Salting, Fermenting, and Pickling for the Modern Kitchen, a road map for preserving fruits, vegetables, and fish through a farmer- and/ or fisherman-centric approach that is easy to integrate into any cooking repertoire.

The menu features selected recipes from the book. Hit lospoblanos.com for more on this event that’s sure to sell out.

A flourish of trumpets heralds the double bill of premieres that celebrate Twyla Tharp’s 50th Anniversary Tour, September 22 at the Lensic. John Zorn provides the show’s vibrant introductory Fanfare, followed by As you’d expect, Santa Fe is also Preludes well represented in the rankings and Fugues. of restaurants with amazing wine Radiating offerings, according to Wine Spectator. with Tharp’s Shall we meet for a drink at La Casa generous spirit Sena, Rio Chama Steakhouse, Dinner and humanity, for Two, Il Piatto, La Plazuela, the dance is set Luminaria, Pranzo, Red Sage at to J. S. Bach’s Buffalo Thunder, Restaurant Martín, Well-Tempered or The Compound? With so many Clavier. The choices, however will we decide where wild and raucous to go? But I’m ready when you are! humor that Tharp locates in We all love New Mexican food, right? the jazz of Henry But what we’ve looong needed in the Butler and City Different is Ethiopian, right?

Steve Bernstein Pine no more, fellow foodies. Rahel runs rampant Fikre-Selassie has opened Café Roha through Yowzie, in DeVargas Center. They are the first | Twyla Tharp’s 50th the second first café in Santa Fe serving Ethiopian new dance.

Anniversary Tour cuisine! “We selected Roha for our With their business name because it represents the abounding joy and immaculate technique, soul of Ethiopia’s ancient history and her Tharp’s fierce band of dancers brings her rich cultural heritage. We hope to echo choreography to life. In each premiere, Tharp the mystery of this ancient land with the turns her decades of experience—she has cuisine made from recipes handed down choreographed ballets and modern dances, from many generations. We look forward for Hollywood films, television and the to welcoming you all with a traditional Broadway stage—into living proof that time Ethiopian coffee ceremony very soon!” is her partner as she continues to deepen and I’m giddy with anticipation! The menu expand the singular imagination that makes includes traditional Ethiopian dishes (both her one of the century’s most treasured artists. vegetarian and with beef, chicken and fish) Visit lensic.org for tickets. injera made from teff, an Ethiopian grain, as well as burgers, sandwiches and salads September means it’s time for Zozobra, and with an African twist. The cardamom and this year, Kiwanis Club of Santa Fe and dates gelato sound divine as dessert. Open TCR Productions present the Inaugural every day except Monday, from 10-5, 6, or ZOZOB Run/Fitness Walk & Kids 1K on 7, call 505.485.7669 to be sure.

September 4. Start your Labor Day weekend

Haverland Carter LifeStyle Group, a mission-driven, faith-based New Mexico not-for-profit that runs La Vida Llena and will soon open The Neighborhood in Rio Rancho, has purchased Sommerset Assisted Living and Memory Care Center in Oklahoma City. Haverland was named One of the Top 10 Best Places to Work in New Mexico in 2014 by Albuquerque Business First and as Albuquerque’s best senior living community in 2015 in a survey of readers of The Albuquerque Journal.

than a special tequila dinner with former owner Al Lucero, on September 15. To help you soak up the tastings, Maria’s has a 4-course feast on tap, each paired with a specially chosen libation. September 1820, the Santa Fe institution offers a special anniversary menu (along with the regular choices), in which Chef Alvaro celebrates Maria’s past, present and future: Enjoy Maria Lopez’s original recipe since 1950 for enchiladas, sirloin tips with green chile (Pricilla Hoback’s popular favorite), Al and Laurie Lucero’s famous trio sampler, and the newest menu must, the grilled steak beef burrito. Call 505.983.7929 for reservations.

SANTA FE

photo: lensic.com

BUZZ

b y K E L LY K O E P K E

We’re thrilled that FUSION opens the 2015-16 theatrical season with the Pulitzer Prize/Obie Award-winning and 2015 Tony Award-nominated best play, Disgraced by Ayad Akhtar, directed by FUSION co-founder Jacqueline Reid.

Opening on September 10 at The Cell, the production will be the first, nationally, following the stellar Broadway run, in limited engagement through September 26. During the run, performances will be held on every day of the week, excepting Mondays. The rest of the season includes The Night Alive by Conor McPherson, Stupid F**ing Bird by Aaron Posner, The Country House by Donald Margulies and fan favorite The Seven Short Works Fest.

Go to fusionabq.com for dates, tickets, etc. and the complete skinny on the entire season.

The Placitas Artists Series kicks off its 2015-16 season on September 27 with a reception and concert at Las Placitas Presbyterian Church. Perennial favorite Willy Sucre & Friends present Beethoven’s String Quartet No. 11 Op. 95 in F minor (the Serioso) and Bartók’s String Quartet No. 1 in A minor. Before that, attend the visual artists reception featuring Robert Benjamin, oils on canvas; Julianna Kirwin, prints, collage and paper mache; Harriet Neal, photography; and Rebecca Nolda, mixed media. The works, which are for sale, are on display through October 2. Call 505.867.8080 or visit PlacitasArtistsSeries.org for times and tickets.

Congrats to the team at Whispirit for their nomination in the Martha Stewart American Made competition. This East Mountains’ maker of gorgeous, luxurious handmade-in-New Mexico alpaca fiber fabrics, clothing and accessories is a barn-to-closet venture from Sandy and

magazine.com

A hearty round of Happy Birthday to Rancho de Chimayo, celebrating 50 years of exceptional New Mexico hospitality, September 19 with a party! While there, pick up a copy of their Rancho De Chimayo Cookbook 50th Anniversary Edition, authored by Santa Fe residents and food mavens Bill (rest in peace) and Cheryl Alters Jamison, restaurant owner Florence Jaramillo, her daughter Laura Jaramillo Ross and granddaughter Lauren Belen Jaramillo Ross. You won’t find a prettier Northern New Mexico-style restaurant anywhere, nor warmer service and delicious food. Head out to Chimayo, enjoy your meal and pick up a cookbook so you can make your favorites at home.

Even more impressive is Maria’s 65th anniversary! What better way to celebrate

off by running or walking, and stay for the 91st burning of Will Shuster’s Zozobra at dusk. Come to the Zozob Run in costume, as prizes will be awarded for the most unique male, female and kids costumes. For complete race details and course map go to tcrproductions.com.

The Santa Fe School of Cooking serves up a delicious dinner with wines donated by local restaurants for Santa Fe NOW’s upcoming fundraiser on September 12. Author/feminist Katha Pollitt shares tidbits of her newest book PRO - Reclaiming Abortion Rights (and vows to try the chile), before heading over to the James A. Little Theater later that evening for a conversation with radio host Julia Goldberg. For information on both events call 505.660.2696 or visit nowsantafe. org.

photo: Bruce McIntosh

The 13th annual Madrid Gypsy Festival takes place September 12 with dancing, music, food and drink and family friendly activities, with lots of entertainment.

The Oscar Huber Memorial Ballpark’s | Gypsy Fest grandstand was recently updated, and performances will be under a tent so everyone can stay cool and dry regardless of the weather. This year’s performers are Clan Tynker, Four Winds Bellydance, Michelle Myers of Farfesha, Eliane and Azadeh, Zihna Kachina and Jade McLellan and special guests Ayah. Go to gypsyfestival.org for the complete breakdown.

Remember Nancy Singleton Hachisu’s new book from the Albuquerque section? She’ll read from and sign it at Collected Works on September 30 (bonus ingredient tasting!). Then on October 1, head to Izanami at Ten Thousand Waves for a special menu featuring recipes from the book.

The author will be at Izanami sharing stories, ingredients and signing copies of the book while Chef David Padberg creates dishes utilizing Nancy’s recipes and techniques. For lunch, Izanami will feature menu specials and at dinner, small and large chef ’s choice menus will highlight the book’s recipes. Reservations highly recommended. Call 505.428.6390 or visit izanami.com.

Be honest, you secretly want to peek inside the luxury homes Santa Fe is famous for. Here’s your chance: The Third Annual ShowHouse Santa Fe to benefit Dollars4Schools.org. Twenty-nine of Santa Fe s celebrated designers have added their creative touches to the historic Frank Applegate Estate (currently owned by Gerald Peters), embracing this year s theme of LUX NEW MEX:

Reinventing Western Classics.

They have each chosen a room within the estate and will furnish it, loosely or assiduously basing their look and feel on the theme.

Expect to see rustic denims, warm suedes, cool leathers, sparkly silver and a vibrant Southwest palette. The big reveal happens at the Fiesta Gala on October 2, and the home tour follows October 3-4 and 10-11. Tickets and details at showhousesantafe.com.

On September 19-20, NM School for the Arts Dance Department, as part of AHA Festival of Progressive Arts, will perform this year’s site-specific performance Blind Spot. This collaboratively choreographed production explores the history of cars, truths and secrets, and underground cultures at the Santa Fe Railyard underground parking garage. This is another in the Inside/Out series of sitespecific performances staged in Santa Fe’s communal spaces that connect student artists with our vibrant communities in innovative and public ways. Go to nmschoolforthearts. org for more.

More dance, this time by Arte Flamenco de Santa Fe, presenting the Mina Fajardo Flamenco Dance Student Showcase at Teatro Paraguas September 27. An exciting evening of flamenco featuring over 20 student dancers, choreography by master teacher/ choreographer Mina Fajardo, flamenco singer Fernando Barros Lirola and original music by critically acclaimed flamenco guitarist Jose Valle “Chuscales.” Visit arteflamencodesantafe.org for tickets and info.

Almost Adults: A Program of Five Short Plays about Sex Love and Immaturity by local playwright Aaron Leventman will be

at Warehouse 21 beginning September 17 for eight performances. These LGBTQthemed comedies and dramas explore the journeys of the young (and not so young) on the difficult road to maturity. Gay marriage and parenting, coming out and coming of age, caretaking and terminal illness, teen homelessness and disenfranchisement and the journey of self-awareness are explored.

Alaina Warren Zachary directs these highly regarded, award-winning shorts. Tickets and info at brownpapertickets.com.

Congrats to HVL Interiors for their recent update of the Santa Fe University of Art and Design’s Campus View Café.

The freshened contemporary and inviting space increases the capacity of the café to accommodate the growing student body. According to partners Steffany Hollingsworth and Heather Van Luchene of HVLI, “We wanted to create an invigorating place where students and staff want to be—a hub as well as a place to eat.

We provided varied height seating options, similar to a contemporary restaurant, in an array of juicy colors. The design has a contemporary, graphic quality and provides a maximum amount of seating while providing for circulation and ease of dining.”

TAOS

developing an expansive knowledge of many different regional flavors and ingredients.

Wilks and Colleen attended the Culinary Institute of America in New York as well as Johnson and Wales University in Rhode Island. Both chefs were born to small rural towns before hopping around major cities in and out of the U.S. honing their craft.

After living and working in Los Angeles, the couple decided to settle in the Taos area to pursue their passions of cooking and dining in a place they both love. The menus are inspired by all American cuisines as well as some of their favorites from abroad; all having a clear nod to both New Mexico and New England roots, including local, seasonal ingredients in dishes that bring a sense of the Taos community into the food. Sounds delish.

Visit medleyinelprado.com.

Angel Fire Resort, home to the No. 1 mountain bike park in the Southwest, presents its annual Gravity Games & Bikes, Blues and Brews Festival starting Friday, September 4. The Labor Day weekend event brings together music, a mountainside brewfest featuring New Mexico’s top brewers, scenic motorcycle riding and three days of mountain biking competition. For a complete schedule of Gravity Games & Bikes, Blues and Brews events or more information on Angel Fire Resort lodging call 800.633.7463 or visit the website at angelfireresort.com.

Taos has three restaurants on Wine Spectator’s annual ranking of restaurants with exceptional wine lists. Congrats to Doc Martin’s, Lamberts and Sabroso. We raise a glass to you all!

Remember the Old Blinking Light in El Prado? It’s now Medley, a restaurant and wine shop, owned and operated by chefs Wilks and Colleen Medley. The couple has lived and cooked all over the country,

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

| Gravity Games & Bikes

SEPTEMBER 2015

11

El Rito Studio Tour October 3rd & 4th 10 am – 5 pm

Between Abiquiu and Ojo Caliente on scenic Highway 554

the art buzz

ALBUQUERQUE

For the eighth year, the Albuquerque Art Business Association honors local artists who not only excel in the arts, but who have given back to their communities, sharing their time, talent and passion. This year’s eight Local Treasures will be feted at the Albuquerque Museum of Art and History, September 6: multi-media artist Marian Berg, painters Dahl Delu, Roger DiCamillo, Carla Forrest, potter Juanita Fragua, weaver and papermaker Karen Simmons, enamellist David Snow and multi-discipline artist Laura Wacha. This year’s President’s Award will go to the late Fermin Hernandez, Master Printmaker. Head to artscrawlabq.org for details on receptions for the artists at sponsoring galleries throughout the fall.

Calling all Tamarind graduates, artists, collectors and supporters to join JUBILEE on September 11-13, a celebration of Tamarind’s 55th anniversary. Tamarind’s celebrating the apex of an era as Marjorie Devon, Bill Lagattuta, and Rodney Hamon retire and a new era begins. September 11 opens with a public reception for Mementos, an exhibition in the Tamarind Gallery showcasing memorabilia from the Marge/Bill/Rodney era. Through January 29, 2016, Tamarind’s gallery becomes the Smithsonian of lithography, as you enjoy historical photographs, and lots more fun related to Tamarind’s history. On September 12, is the third Win/Win Art Lottery, an exclusive event of only 100 ticket holders who will choose a work, in the order of a random number received upon entry. The 100 lots are online for everyone to browse. Then dig out those glass slippers, resurrect that suit coat, and hide from your evil stepmother for the Prints Charming Ball, that evening at the magical Las Puertas, a large warehouse with a gorgeous dance floor. And don’t sleep in for the September 13 Breakfast of Champions with Garo Antreasian—a light continental breakfast and historical musing with Tamarind’s first technical director that’s free and open to the public. All the details at tamarind. unm.edu.

www.elritostudiotour.org (575) 581-4679 The El Rito Studio Tour is funded in part by the County of Rio Arriba Lodgers’ Tax and is fiscally sponsored by Luciente, Inc., a 501c3.

The Gallery ABQ presents LOVE2 & Whimmills

SANTA FE

12

SEPTEMBER 2015

magazine.com

Opening September 15, O’Keeffe in Process at the New Mexico Museum of Art focuses on 36 O’Keeffe oil paintings, 15 works on paper and supporting materials from the Museum’s collection, and works from the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum and private collections. The exhibition tells the story of the working technique of this 20th-century New Mexico master. Artworks span the artist’s career from early student portraits of family members created in 1905, to paintings executed during stays at Lake George in the late teens and first half of the ’20s, to her iconic depictions of flowers, bones and New Mexico landscapes, to her discovery of the view from the sky. Preliminary sketches and photographs hung alongside finished works will reveal both the steps in O’Keeffe’s creative process and her technical, art-making technique. Viewers will come to understand what makes an O’Keeffe artwork recognizable as an O’Keeffe. More at nmartmuseum.org.

If you haven’t already been to The Red That Colored The World exhibition at the Museum of International Folk Art, you’ve only got until September 13. And this show is dynamite! The exhibition translates the story of cochineal (an insect that is turned into varied shades of red dyes) into three dimensions, following the precious bug juice and its use in art from Mexico to Europe to the U.S. and beyond. Highlighting more than 130 objects—textiles, sculpture, paintings, manuscripts, decorative arts, clothing and more. Hie thee hence, and it’s free for everyone on Sundays, internationalfolkart.org

TAOS

October 3-4 is the 29th Annual El Rito Studio Tour. Hidden in plain sight is a small community embraced by the foothills of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains where residents have lived quietly for generations, cultivating lives that foster independence. Fifty miles north of Santa Fe, just 12 miles off Hwy 84, El Rito is bursting with creativity in both traditional and contemporary Amapola Gallery, media, including sculpture, pottery, located in Old weaving, welding, tin and iron work, Town’s historic paintings, drawings, printmaking, | Cristina Diaz-Arntzen at Amapola Gallery Romero House on photography and collage, jewelry, the Plaza, has been handmade books and note cards, delighting serious collectors, gift buyers and seekers of handmadefurniture and more. Eighteen stops, in-New Mexico goods for 35 years. In celebration of the anniversary, including one on the New Mexico 40 artist-members of Amapola Gallery team up to sponsor three Fiber Arts Trail and one on the New anniversary parties over a 35-day period ending September 13, with Mexico Potter’s Trail, will display the an anniversary ribbon-cutting ceremony. Amapola Gallery is an work of over 40 artisans in the setting artist cooperative where you always talk with an artist. The member in which it was created. Visitors to the gallery opened in 1980, and includes clay, cut paper, fabric arts, glass, tour will be delighted by the variety of jewelry, macramé, paintings, photography, paper, botanicals, wearable art, from local village arts and crafts to art, wood, mixed media and stone carving. There are more than 1,417 contemporary artwork. Artists include pieces of original art on exhibit in Amapola Gallery at any one time. renowned santero Nicholas Herrera, More info at AmapolaGallery.com. photographer David Michael Kennedy, musician Cipriano Vigil, photographer Tom Quinn Kumpf, as well as many other established artists, such as potter IAIA Museum of Contemporary Native Arts opened a new wing to Barbara Campbell, mixed-media artist Julie Wagner, Vanderbrook Studios, showcase its permanent collection. The new Kieve Family Gallery renovation honors Pauline and Rudolph Kieve and Ruth and David and micaceous potter Emmy Cheney.

John Brandi and Renée Gregorio will Hughes for their love of art. Inaugurating the Kieve Family Gallery is the exhibition Visions and Visionaries curated by MoCNA Chief be displaying their poetry broadsides.

Curator, Candice Hopkins. Drawing from the strength and diversity Visit elritostudiotour.org to explore the each artist’s web page with photos, of the permanent collection, Hopkins says, “the works enable us to biography, artist statement and more. see the world through different eyes and highlight the role of the

Photo: amapolagallery.com

September, 1–29, First Friday ARTScrawl, September 4, 5-8 pm Artist Insights: Watercolorists Tricia & Jerry Love discuss their aesthetics & techniques at 6 pm; Salon Exhibit: The Whimmills of My Mind - a collection of Surrealism, Romantic Realism & Still Life by award-winning artist-poet, Jeff Warren

Nineteen artists collaborate to present the 12th annual Sandia Heights Artists Studio Art Tour September 12-13. The artists, many of whom show throughout Albuquerque, represent at least 13 different mediums, including watercolor and acrylic, handcrafted books, sterling silver and beaded jewelry, oil painting, photography, wearables, ceramics, earthenware, gourds and fabric baskets, and wood turning. Preview night is September 4 at High Desert Art and Frame.

2015 participating artists include Chris Almeria, Patricia Apt, Lynda Burch, Marta Burckley, Eric Guenette, Linda Hayon, Toni Seidel, among others. Learn more and see a map at SandiaHeightsArtists. com.

visionaries in IAIA’s history, who forged new paths that we continue to follow.”

Collections tell particular stories—in this case the development of Native art in the American southwest in the 1960s and its evolution into a national movement today. The collection is a testament to the continual risk-taking and innovation that has shaped IAIA, and in turn, MoCNA. The exhibition is divided into different “chapters,” Abstraction; Ways of Seeing; Politics and Perception; and Realism and the Documentary Image. These different sections serve to frame the works, create new connections, and revise established artistic tropes and movements. Visit iaia. edu/museum for details.

SHA15_LocalFlavor_ad_Layout 1 8/10/15 9:05 AM Page 1

An oasis of casual elegance where delicious wines & sophisticated tapas-style cuisine will transport you to Old Spain...

12TH ANNUAL STUDIO TOUR

Sept 12&13, 2015

10 A.M. - 5 P.M.

19 Artists & One Good Time!

Map available at High Desert Art & Frame (Montgomery & Tramway)

sandiaheightsartists.com

With the best local microbrews on tap!

The Cellar Tapas Beer & Wine 1025 Lomas Blvd NW

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

Albuquerque

505.242.3117

SEPTEMBER 2015

13

hat’s the motif of our local palaver? Family-owned, independent businesses, right? Put your napkin where your mouth is at Andiamo! Opened in 1995 (so, let’s see? 20 years! Shut up!), this bungalow—convivially remodeled recently—at 322 Garfield Street, a stonefruit-throw from the Railyard, puts up classic Italian fare and a list of brilliant wines. Joan Gillcrist and husband Will Strong must be good bosses, because you’re welcomed by longtime manager Brenda Acosta and even longer-time executive chef Esteban Parra.

While we’re at it, we take our hats off to 315 Restaurant and Wine Bar and Matt Yohalem Italian Farmhouse Kitchen, also 20-somethings.

Here’s a tip about Modern General, Erin Wade’s newest venture: put on the feedbag! Modern General serves food all day, but the trick is to hit it between 8 and 11 a.m. or, say, 3 to 5 p.m. when the shared parking lot isn’t so crowded with folks eating at Wade’s Vinaigrette. Snag a breakfast sandwich, or their “daily” sandwich special, or my go-to sautéed greens in broth topped with a perfectly poached egg.

Sure, ogle fine garden tools, books, pitchers, kitchen towels; be hip and sip smoothies, coffees, teas; do a turmeric shot with fresh orange juice; or take home flour, ground weekly on their new mini stone mill.

But, if it gets hard to park during those off-hours, I’m going to wish I hadn’t told you.

The burger ambassadors at Santa Fe Bite probably bring as many visitors to town as our James Beard Award-winning and -nominated chefs. Thrillist, a lifestyle website featuring “eat, drink, and travel” articles, put the Bite green-chile cheeseburger ($12.35) on yet another list of “Best Burgers in America,” surviving the online voting of grill-seekers all the way to the final four. Congratulations!

But, I have a beef to pick about those lists: they discriminate against Beard Award chefs. Mark Kiffin features a burger at The Compound, on his lunch menu, using local Lone Mountain Wagyu beef from Golden, NM, served with avocado, grilled bulb onion, aioli, with options of roasted poblano peppers and cheddar; and it comes with fries and a white table cloth ($14). Try one and ask yourself why it isn’t on someone’s list of best burgers.

14

SEPTEMBER 2015

magazine.com

It’s time to take our noses out of the air and put them over the plates of some of Santa Fe’s top chefs—in hotels. Local Flavor has featured Anthony Smith at the Old House in the Eldorado Hotel, and Juan Jose Bochenski at the Inn of the Anasazi. But, besides clear talent (and, usually, good parking), diners are treated to three-square options of breakfast, lunch and dinner. Upbeat Marc Quiñones at Inn and Spa at Loretto creates an irresistible colorpalate of dishes that put a smile on your face. Todd Hall, himself a Beard honoree, distinguished kitchens in Boston and Aspen before bringing his craft to La Posada’s Julia. Amaya at the Hotel Santa Fe is a gem for accommodating whatever your mood dictates, whether a tasty, reasonable bar menu in the lounge, or a more formal dining eve from Executive Chef Walter Dominguez. Travel the short and scenic route to The Red Sage at the Hilton Buffalo Thunder where Chef Edgar Morales perpetuates the concept created by (yup, Beard winner) Mark Miller.

Quinn Stephenson is a triple threat: bartender, sommelier, owner/ partner at Geronimo, Coyote Cafe, Radish & Rye and also, as proprietor of The Den, a cocktail lounge nestled below Coyote.

The Den is being re-imagined and renamed as The High Note, 132 West Water St. “The Den got too far away from my vision,” says Stephenson. “We were busy on Friday and Saturday nights for three hours, and empty during the week. My dream is a lounge for grown-ups to sip classic cocktails, wine, enjoy espresso and desserts, and listen to acoustic jazz any night of the week,” he says.

Gone is the Vegas look of black and ivory, replaced by uptown hues of ganache and sage, gilded mirrors and sconces. The kind of place you’d go to in New York City for a nightcap and a chat. “I’d like it to be a venue where touring musicians feel they can stop in after a concert, hear a friend play, or sit in,” Stephenson says. As it happened, Esperanza Spalding was playing at the Lensic the night he shows me around. “That would be awesome,” he muses, “to have her jam next time she plays Santa Fe.”

Photo: Gabriella Marks

W

BIG BUZZ

During our beautiful fall, high-cocktail it up to Bar Alto on the top floor of the Drury Hotel and, as the lyric goes, “look down on this timeless town” from their patio with a view. (Your eye may spy a good six-pack or an itsy bitsy bikini at the adjoining outdoor pool.) Barman Joseph Haggard and crew are crafting imaginative libations like “La Palabra Ultima,” an interpretation of the classic Last Word, a gin-based prohibition cocktail—only Bar Alto does it with mezcal. Joe is setting them up every night from 4 until 10 p.m. Bar Alto is of course the baby sister to Chef John Sedlar’s ultra chic Eloisa.

Derailed, a new bar at the Sage Inn, will open in mid-September featuring a large horseshoe-shaped patio with fire places and a casual menu created by Chef John Bobrick. It seems a perfect spot to venture off the rails on a cool autumn night.

Of all the gin joints in all the towns in all the world, did you know the Arroyo Vino Restaurant, 218 Camino La Tierra, is now offering a limited selection of premium cocktails? Try the world’s most exquisite gin from Black Forest Distillers in Germany, Monkey 47, served with a small bottle of Fever Tree tonic.

Photo: Kitty Leaken

the

A pioneer of today’s Southwestern cuisine–Chef John Sedlar opens the trendy new Eloisa at the Drury. Welcome home, John.

Photo: Vladimir Chaloupka

Photo: ©Audrey Nadia Rubinstein

stor y by JAMES SELBY

James Beard honoree Todd Hall at the newly opened Julia at La Posada.

Chef Kiko Rodriquez brings the New World Flavors of the Americas to Taberna

Photo: © Douglas Merriam

Inn of the Anaszi and the Eldorado make a big splash with their stunning remodels!

Photo: Gabriella Marks

Erin Wade of Vinaigrette debuts Modern General where everything old is new again….

Photo: Stephen Lang

Radish & Rye––the new darling of Santa Fe! Partners Quinn Stephenson, Camille Bremer and Dru Ruebush hit it out of the ballpark with this one.

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

Here’s Juan Bochenski of Anaszi and Eldorado’s Tony Smith beaming at their new digs.

SEPTEMBER 2015

15

BIG BUZZ

Cats and restaurants at 221 Shelby Street have nine lives, as does Chef Fernando Olea, formerly of Epazote and Bert’s Burger Bowl. Going from the fire to the frying pan, Olea is taking over the space, which, in previous lives, has been Tanti Luce, Amavi, Julian’s, and the long-ago Periscope.

The white ceiling beams are being sanded back to the original wood and the separate bar area is being completely reconfigured. Olea’s incarnation will be called Sazón, serving a newworld cuisine with Aztec influences, featuring a bar full of mescal and tequila.

Solana Center,” as the website says.) Barrio products are starting to make guest appearances around town: Duel Brewery, Dr. Field Goods Butcher, Cheesemongers, even the Santa Fe Opera. They’re something to sing about.

As swift as a steak knife in the ribs, Roey Valim and Mario Girard were required to turn back the keys to Steaksmith at El Gancho last spring, leaving loyal fans and staff spinning like a rotisserie gone rogue. Out but not down, they’re retaining the name Steaksmith, pursuing other professional paths, while keeping tabs on future locations. Out of the ashes rises The Bourbon Grill at El Gancho at 104 Old Las Vegas Hwy, scheduled to open in the fall following an extensive remodel. The operators of the new restaurant (anonymous at deadline) will offer steaks, seafood and, yes, specialty bourbons. A package liquor store is part of the package with a large selection of wines, which can be purchased and served at your table for a small fee. As one local remarked, “Bourbon is the ‘it’ thing these days: The Bourbon Grill, Radish & Rye. What’s next, Santa Fe?”

“Have you been to Paper Dosa” is the second question you’ll get about another charmed newcomer to the culinary scene. Chef Paulraj Karuppasamy and his wife and business partner, Nellie Tischler serve South Indian cuisine. The tortilla of India, dosa, crisp, savory and crepelike, is made from rice batter and black lentils and is a delightful way of conveying multiple vegetarian and meat preparations to your watering mouth.

Yaks, the long-haired, horned bovid originally from the Tibetan plateau, are prized for their low-fat meat and woolly fibers. David Franklin of Santa Fe is proprietor of family-owned Guadalupita Grassfed Ruminants, a ranch south of Angel Fire, where his majestic herd grazes in bucolic pastures. Its meat, with a flavor sweeter than beef, can be purchased at La Montanita Coop and is a frequently a special at the Santa Fe Bar & Grill. We may soon be seeing the TV commercials. “Where’s the yak?”

Pickles are the new kale. Ask Patrick Block, owner of Barrio Brinery. He’ll fire off the facts as fast as a noir detective. Fermented pickles are alive and rich in probiotics that help the flora in our innards, much like yogurt or kimchi.

Beyond that, they’re good, crunchy fun. Stop by and taste at his double-barrel-sized shop/ kitchen, where he makes five classic styles of pickles, as well as escabeche and sauerkraut.

(1413-B West Alameda, “One-half mile west of

16

SEPTEMBER 2015

magazine.com

“Have you been to Cheesemongers” is the first thing out the mouth of any foodie in Santa Fe when talking shop, said with equal relish at the delights Cheesemongers offers and pride of having such a fine establishment here.

The store front, opened a year ago provides hundreds of cut-to-order domestic and imported cheeses, salumi, and sundry accompaniments.

Owner John Gutierrez has encyclopedic knowledge of his product and will, enthusiastically, share and taste with customers.

Photo: Gabriella Marks

the

Downtown’s Georgia restaurant next door to the O’Keeffe Museum, has selected young chef LeRoy Alvarado, who has worked his way up the ranks in numerous Santa Fe kitchens. “We’ll continue serving American contemporary cuisine as we always have, but we aren’t showcasing New Mexican cooking,” says Alvarado. “You’ll see its influence in dishes, but there’s enough green chile.” While all of Santa Fe’s guests are welcome, Alvarado says, “We’re here for the locals and maintain very reasonable prices to make it inviting any night of the week.” That would be seven nights. Asked if he’s had a day off since starting his first executive chef position, LeRoy smiles, and says, “Not yet.”

Mark Connell, the chef phenom who lit up Max’s in Santa Fe and, more recently, Arroyo Vino, has found a new home at Hillside on Old Las Vegas Highway, a gallery and cooperative retail space. Connell, never short on creativity, has begun serving—characteristically—imaginative and delicious quesadillas, salads and panini, accompanied by juice drinks and coffee in the casual Hillside Café, 7:30 a.m. until 3 p.m., Monday through Saturday, while he begins envisioning his new project, Fables, a full-on restaurant in the uniquely beautiful, high-ceilinged, terraced greenhouse and courtyard of Hillside.

Chef Martin Rios has had quite a year. The Restaurant Martin Cookbook: Sophisticated Cooking From the Celebrated Santa Fe Restaurant co-authored with Cheryl and Bill Jamison was released in August. Also, Rios was up for Best Chef of the Southwest.

Like Peter O’Toole, nominated eight times for an Oscar without a win, Rios, a finalist multiple times, is due his trophy. The real winners are those who dine at Restaurant Martin.

I’d like to salute one toque on the line whose food many of us won’t have an opportunity to try, though for many years he was second-in-command of the kitchen at The Compound. Andrew Nichols is a household name in one percent of Santa Fe homes. He’s the executive chef at The Club at Las Campanas and as far from a snob as any man I know, but also, as fine a chef. Beard and Oscar winners aren’t the only great ones, but the awards are forever attached to their name. Some great poetry comes from those we only know as “Anonymous.” I toast those anonymous chefs and cooks whose names we may never know, but whose craft stays ever in our sense memories.

Photo: Globe Pequot Press, an imprint of Rowman and Littlefield / Kate Russell

A best-selling cookbook and a Beard Award finalist--it’s been a stellar year at Restaurant Martín.

Say, cheese–the Cheesemonger is here!

John Gutierrez holds court in his bustling, brimming-with-cheese shop on Marcy.

Photo: Stephen Lang

Photo: Gaelen Casey

Photo: Gabriella Marks

Paper Dosa captures our hearts! And the South Indian cuisine of Chef Paul Karuppasamy and partner Nellie Tischler opens a new world of flavors for foodies.

Santa Fe eagerly awaits the unveiling of Fables––brought to you by the irrepressible Chef Mak Connell.

First-time Wine Spectator award winners–Andy Barnes of Dinner for Two (in red) and Edgar Morales and Thomas Hartwell of Red Sage.

Steve Lemon of Pranzo welcomes them to the elite club of oenophiles.

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2015

17

#lovelorettospa Pampering customized facials with clinical results

Locals enjoy 20% off every day 505.984.7997 | innatloretto.com/spa

Seventh Ray Skin Care Serving Santa Fe since 1992

2019 Galisteo St.N8

seventhrayskincare.com

505.982.9865

Fiesta! an interior designer home tour in conjunction with

“Lux New Mex” Preview Gala Music from Nacha Mendez and Food & Drink at The Frank Applegate Estate Friday, October 2nd - 6-9 pm Ticket: $100

Home Tour

Saturday & Sunday, October 3rd & 4th Saturday & Sunday, October 10th & 11th Ticket: $25

ShopHouse

Designer Rooms and Boutique working together to positively impact nearly 2,000 students in 18 Santa Fe Schools

DOLLARS DOLLARS SCHOOLS SCHOOLS

SAN TAFE FE SANTA

18

SEPTEMBER 2015

magazine.com

Visit

showhousesantafe.com for tickets

“

Most of the eyewear in the world is produced by a few companies.

We would like to show you something different!

Elevating New Mexico’s optical experience with refreshing & artistic independent eyewear.

NOW OPEN

125 Lincoln Avenue, Suite 114 Santa Fe, NM 505.988.4444 • ojooptique.com

3339 Central Avenue, Suite B Albuquerque, NM 505.232.9796 • ojooptique.comm

Opening Late September

Drink · Dine · Unwind O P E N 3 P M D A I LY

In the Heart of Santa Fe 505-982-5952 • WWW.SANTAFESAGEINN.COM/DERAILED • 725 CERRILLOS ROAD • SANTA FE, NM 87505

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2015

19

TERRA RESTAURANT Sourcing The Finest Local Ingredients

Now Featuring Weekly Sunday Brunch • 11:00 A.M. - 2:00 P.M $45 for buffet only | $65 with unlimited champagne For reservations please call 505.946.5800.

fourseasons.com/santafe • Follow Us @FSSantaFe • 505.946.5700

Harvest

a Row

This fall, harvest the abundance your garden has to offer to those who are hungry.

For more information,

ENDING HUNGER IN NORTHERN NEW MEXICO

Local Flavor Harvest a Row Ad Quarter Page.indd 1 20 SEPTEMBER 2015

1222 A Siler Road Santa Fe, NM 87507 505-471-1633 ext. 12 jgentry@thefooddepot.org www.thefooddepot.org 8/18/2015 4:35:21 PM

magazine.com

THE CULINARY FARMER…… stor y by GO RDON BUNKER photos by GABRIELLA MARKS

A Restaurant Revolution

T

he big business supply chain of food sells itself on convenience, and apparently will stop at nothing. It’s now an everyday occurrence that highly perishable fresh fruits and vegetables are airfreighted from farm to market, half way around the planet. C’mon folks, this is crazy.

Fortunately, a few sane voices in the restaurant world are calling out, and the trend | Chef Colin Shane and Owner Brian Bargsten to culinary farming is quickly evolving. Chefs started buying produce at farmer’s markets, some of them then formed direct business relationships with farmers, and now we see them growing their own gardens. Chef Colin Shane at Arroyo Vino in Santa Fe is doing just this.

Colin is a gentle and soft-spoken guy. Early in our conversation, I suggest that for a chef, having a garden specifically for his kitchen must be a big step in raising his craft. As he responds, his expression tells me we’ve gotten right to the heart of the matter. “I don’t have children or anything,” he says, “but, the first time we harvested the food and we got to put it on a plate, and hand it to a guest, I was like, beaming.” Colin is beaming still. “You know, so proud,” he says. “It was like, I saw this go into the dirt, I saw them pull it out, I cooked it, I prepared it, and here it is, the whole process—360 degrees. It was insanely satisfying.”

Arroyo Vino’s garden started with a few raised beds for herbs and tomatoes. “From that, it was a natural evolution.” Colin says he asked questions like, “What if we did our own salad greens? How much space would that take? If we’re going to do that, we might as well do our own squash and eggplant, and why not grow our own flowers for the tables?” He explains that all of the flowers featured in the restaurant are grown onsite. “That’s a huge part of it,” he says.

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2015

21

A Restaurant Revolution Since Colin took over as chef last winter, Arroyo Vino’s garden has roughly doubled in size. “Part of it is looking at what I would desire to have available to me at all times, and the other part is the freshness factor,” the chef says. “There’s the connection, you know, the connection’s really important—to see where the food’s coming from, for the cooks in the kitchen to understand it’s not just being dropped from a truck.”

Gardeners Lauren Kendall and Liza Froklis have been instrumental in the garden’s development. “It’s a lot more than throwing seeds in the soil,” Colin says. “The first step was to start composting all of our kitchen scraps, and not just dumping it in a pile out there. They really have the know-how of organic farming.” Colin’s made it clear to his staff that the garden is Lauren and Liza’s territory. “You don’t go out there and start plucking stuff. You can’t have six or seven cooks in there and just give them free reign—a little of this and a little of this, and they’re not going to harvest it [correctly].

Lauren and Liza really understand how to groom the plants, how to trim them properly. It’s stuff that takes a lifetime to learn. All the seeds are heirloom and organic.

There’s not a single chemical on the property.” Lauren, who brings an extensive background in beekeeping to the garden, has two hives at Arroyo Vino.

Industrial-scale agriculture has, at a cost, smoothed the edges of Mother Nature’s unpredictability. Colin, on the other hand, faces the ebb and flow of the garden. “It’s our first year doing it on this scale,” Chef Colin says. “For me, I’m learning to work my menu around [what’s available]. There’s a flux. You have to be very flexible. Sometimes you get used to being able to call someone [and say,] ‘I want this tomorrow.’ You want them to bring it to you, but it’s not ready tomorrow. You have to think on your feet.”

There have been times of mutual frustration for Colin and the gardeners. “We’ve had several bad hailstorms out here in the last month, to the point, literally, we went outside after and there’s like bullet holes in the leaves of all the plants. It set us back a couple weeks at least on squash and decimated a whole round of salad greens,” the chef laments. “It’s kind of devastating.” I tell Colin this is why, after a number of attempts, I am not a gardener. “Weather, nature—we come in and the mice have eaten all our beets. That’s happened a couple times,” he says. “We’re dedicated to the fact [that] we’re not going to use any poison or that stuff around the food. So, you have to get creative with how you’re going to keep them out.”

Colin says farm-to-table dining is not a gimmick; it’s something that makes sense and it’s the right thing to do. “In the US, I think people are losing touch with what they put in their bodies in a major way.” He says “there’s an awakening with people who are trying to get back in touch with that; you see the success now in the popularity of farmers’ markets and the farm-to-table-style restaurant. I would like to believe that any chef, if given the chance, would do this.” Still, Colin notes limitations like space and money can get in the way. “Maybe in Santa Fe we’re starting to pave a little bit of a new path, but by no means is it a new concept.”

And it’s true, Santa Fe is on the fruitful path from garden to table. Chef and restaurateur Erin Wade of Vinaigrette was featured in Local Flavor back in 2011 at her farm, Los Portales. And at Terra at the Four Seasons, Andrew Cooper started his onsite garden three years ago. “The first year, I had four boxes,” chef Andrew says. I was able to provide the restaurant with two-months worth of lettuce from those four boxes. After that, I was able to expand it.” Now with dozens of vegetables and herbs growing, the chef does it all himself, germinating seeds and keeping it going all year round. Tending the garden, “gives me time to think about the day. Everyone loves to walk by and smell the fresh herbs, it’s like a giant perfume coming up. A really fun time is doing the chef ’s table in the garden. People dine in the center of the garden. I’m cooking right there; it’s just an incredible experience.”

Martín Rios of Restaurant Martín is also forging the way in Santa Fe. The chef had flowerbeds in his patio and decided to plant them with herbs. “I had never done it before, so about three years ago started doing that,” Martín says. He lists off dozens of herbs and how he uses them for their potential at different times of the year. “Young sprouts, tops, edible flowers, etc. We’re making sauces, sorbets, ice cream. We try to utilize as much as we can—people love them.” Martin also has fruit trees at his house.

“About three years ago we had a beautiful spring. I had so much fruit I brought it over here. We use as much as we can.”

Since having the garden at Arroyo Vino, chef Colin has developed a deep appreciation for its produce. “There’s a beauty in the simplicity of fresh vegetables,” he

| Chef Colin Shane

| Farmer Liza Froklis

22

SEPTEMBER 2015

magazine.com

says. “I learned that where I might have been a little judgmental of people in the past who put out super simple dishes, once we started harvesting the garden, I found I don’t really want to do anything to this stuff. It’s so awesome and beautiful—like yeah, we should just shave it right on the salad and let it speak for itself.” Colin says the whole process of garden-to-restaurant cuisine has transformed the way he thinks about food. “Big time,” he says. “It’s opened my mind a lot. So I think the garden’s reined me back a little. For instance, he says, “This dish can be the complex sophisticated one. And then maybe this one’s just simple.”

We talk about the challenge of getting to, and sticking to, the essence of the work at hand. “The simple dishes are the hardest to get perfect,” Colin says. “You’re using two, three, four ingredients and you have to make them all shine. There’s an added sense of responsibility and a little bit of pressure using the stuff from the garden.”

I mention recent, sobering statistics from the USDA: In this country, “food waste is estimated at between 30 to 40 percent of the food supply.” The EPA adds, “about 95 percent of the food we throw away ends up in landfills or combustion facilities. In 2013, we disposed of more than 35 million tons of food waste. Once in landfills, food breaks down to produce methane, a potent greenhouse gas which contributes to climate change.”

Having seen first hand the hard work and resources that go into gardening, Colin is adamant about curbing waste, and responds: “I got the guy that runs the salad station. I’m like, ‘You understand the difference between all this nice mizuna and tatsoi from the garden and the salad greens we might buy from someone else?’ A national distributor or whatever. But like, treat everything with care. Really treat these with care and integrity. I don’t want to see any of it wasted. That’s a big part of it. Learning how the stuff is so delicate.”

And so, Colin and crew are finding ways to make the best use of their produce. “We were growing English peas and the vines weren’t fruiting the way we wanted so like, OK, we’re not going to get a lot of peas out of these, but the flowers are amazing. So let them go crazy and we’ll keep harvesting the flowers, and they taste just like a pea but are beautiful little purple and white flowers.” They are, he says, “one of my favorite things now. I’d never even seen them before. You can’t buy that, you know?”

But Colin and his crew are also finding other ways to use everything from the garden. “There’s a wave of top chefs in the world that are rejecting this idea of what an acceptable vegetable is,” he says. “Why does my carrot have to be straight to be served on a plate? How many carrots are grown that are misshapen or squiggly? Everyone who’s grown something at their house knows the uniformity is not there. Harvesting those little radishes and baby turnips….those greens are all really tender, why not throw them in the salad mix rather than throw them away? It makes you think differently about a lot of things.”

In growing gardens, these chefs are taking significant steps toward bringing some sanity back to how we eat. While they are putting in a lot of extra work, and assuming considerable risk, Erin, Andrew, Colin and Martín all speak of their gardens with love and enthusiasm. They know that there is nothing like the hands-on experience of growing a garden to gain a deeper appreciation of the complexities and beauty of nature, and the significance of our relationship with it. | Arroyo Vino is located at 218 Camino La Tierra in Santa Fe. For directions go to arroyovino.com or 505.983.2100.

| Farmer Lauren Kendall

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2015

23

NOW OPEN SUNDAYS

Thank You Santa Fe! Voted Best Chef 2015!

Voted Best Ethnic Restaurant for last 5 Years

Dinner Tuesday thru Sunday • 5pm 548 Agua Fria St • Downtown Santa Fe (505) 930-5325 • eat@radishandrye.com

Visit Jambo Imports (two doors down from

Jambo Cafe)

Your Source for All Thin gs Africa Spices, Baskets, Jewelry, Clothing, Fabric and More - 5% of all sales support Jambo Kids Foun dation

A Journey to India Pop-Up Dinner

Sat, Sept 19 6-9pm $45 prix fixe

www.jambokids.org 11 am - 9 pm Mon - Sat Closed Sun

(505) 473-1269 jambocafe.net 2010 Cerrillos Road (near Hobby lobby)

Food Photography: Richard White

24

SEPTEMBER 2015

magazine.com

a four-course tour of seasonallyinspired Indian cuisine prepared by Ayurvedic practitioner and Chef Shibana Singh RSVP required • call Guest Services to reserve your seating

333 W. Cordova Rd

BODY

(505) 986-0362

534C 1807C

235 Don Gaspar Suite 1 Santa Fe 505-992-1233 Open 7 Days

C.C. Filson Grayers Barbour Artifact Bag Co. Kuhl Jeremiah Blundstone Opinel

Best of Women’s Contemporary Clothing!

seventy west marcy steet • 505.982.1399 • wearaboutssf.com

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2015

25

ON STAGE AT THE photos by STEPHEN LANG and JOY GODFREY

Lensic

TRUE LOCAL FAVORITES– 25 YEARS AND Left to right: Mario Mendoza, Coyote Café; Preciliano Ruiz, Café Rigoberto Hidalgo, Zia Diner; Peter Walsh, Zia Diner; STILL COOKING Pasqual’s; Augustin Bencomo, Vanessie; Candelaria Gonzales, Maria’s;

NEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK (Top row) Todd Hall, Julia/La Posada de Santa Fe; Paulraj Karuppasamy, Paper Dosa. (Bottom row) Mark Connell, Fables; David Mora, Boxcar; Jose L. Rodriguez, Taberna/La Boca; Not Pictured: Derailed/Sage Inn; Radish & Rye

26

SEPTEMBER 2015

magazine.com

Joshua Ortiz, The Palace Restaurant; Fernando Ruiz, Santacafé; Felix E. Ramirez, Santacafé; Every Paz, El Farol; Alvaro Ramirez, Maria’s; Nelson H. Trujillo, El Farol; Eduardo Rodriguez, Coyote Café

™

featuring

Chef Lane Warner’s Inspired New Mexico Cuisine

The Wines of J. Lohr Estates Wednesday, September 23rd 6:00 pm La Terraza Room & Patio $125 per person inclusive More info & menu: www.lafondasantafe.com/la-plazuela

Reservations 505-995-2316 100 East San Francisco St. Santa Fe, NM 87501

Lunch M-F 11-2 · Dinner Nightly at 5 322 Garfield Street, Santa Fe 505.995.9595 • AndiamoSantaFe.com Established 1995

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2015

27

ON STAGE AT THE

Lensic

TEAM FLAVOR Left to right: Sheridan Johnson, Ashley Schutte, Michelle Moreland, Patty Karlovitz, Kate Collins, Lianne Aponte, Jasmine Quinsier

28

SEPTEMBER 2015

magazine.com

#loveluminaria Join us for Wine & Chile Fiesta Thursday, Sept 24th – Precept & Gruet | Friday, Sept 25th – Merryvale & Starmont Call 505-984-7915 for Reservations | Luminariarestaurant.com

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2015

29

ON STAGE AT THE

Michelle Moreland

Lensic

TOP TEN DISHES 2014

Left to Right: Colin Shane, Arroyo Vino; LeRoy Alvarado, Georgia; Joe Wrede, Joseph’s Culinary Pub; (back row) Santiago Ceja, L’Olivier; Xavier Grenet, L’Olivier; Victor Campos, Geronimo; (back row) Tony Smith, The Old House/Eldorado; Sllin Cruz, Geronimo; James Forbes, The Old House/Eldorado

DONT MESS WITH MY KITCHEN Left to right: Mary Loya, Julia/La Posada de Santa Fe; Reagan Nelson, La Boca; Elizabeth DeSantis, Terra/Four Seasons Rancho Encantado; Ericka Balderas, The Palace Restaurant, Jen Doughty, Agoyo Lounge/Inn on the Alameda; Ann Suthirat Ferragamo, Thai Café; Ericka Rodriguez, Geronimo & Coyote Café; Hyun Lee, Izmi Sushi; Hillary Ginepra, SF Culinary Academy (in front) Zach Stoltz, Agoyo Lounge/Inn on the Alameda

30

SEPTEMBER 2015

magazine.com

S ANTA F E’ S SO URCE FO R F INE F ERM E NTE D FOO DS www.barriobrinery.com

1413-B West Alameda 1/2 mile west of Solana Center

(505) 699-9812

© Daniel Quat Photography

Great food + Good times

2571 Cristos Rd, Santa Fe Across from the Auto Park near Kohls 505-424-8900 • theranchhousesantafe.com

L ik

o N e

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

e’s n O

ok o L

SEPTEMBER 2015

.. . g in

31

where the Craic is Mighty!

If you like the wines you taste at Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta...

You can get them at:

St Francis at Cerrillos ~ in the Crossroads Center, Santa Fe Monday – Saturday 10 am-8 pm ~ (505) 984-1582

Wendy McEahern

Shipping and delivery available!

Transport yourself across the pond at New Mexico’s most authentic Irish Pub!

19 beers of integrity and the Southwests’s most extensive selection of fine and rare scotch whiskies, served alongside our perfectly-executed traditional menu of fine pub fare. Featuring our Famous Fish and Chips.

Food Served Daily, 11am-11pm Fridays and Saturdays until 12am

last spaces for rent

A Tierra Concepts’ Creation

www.2foolstavern.com

505.265.7447 • 3211 Central Ave • In Historic Nob Hill

32

SEPTEMBER 2015

magazine.com

Contact Eric Faust 505.780.1159 Eric@TierraConceptsSantaFe.com www.pachecopark.com

• 130 sq' - 1,160 sq' available • ideal for office and retail • within walking distance to the Railrunner • boasts great amenities • restaurant on site • hi-speed internet • great landscaping • great neighbors • the owners are on site Visit Pacheco Park and see why this could be your best business decision ever.

Full Bloom Boutique

Komarov Dress Sale Biya Johnny Was 3J Workshop Komarov Comfy Not Your Daughter’s Jeans

70 W M a r c y S t r e e t • S a n t a F e 505-988-9648 • Open 7 Days a Week

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2015

33

SANTA FE PHOTOGRAPHIC WORKSHOPS

Lots of people come here and say they aren’t creative, and then during their workshop, they discover that part of themselves. That’s one of the wonderful things about photography, it’s really open to everybody.

Reid Callanan

T

here’s something exceptional hidden away in the foothills of Santa Fe—something that has drawn people to our city for almost three decades. Travelers have come from all over the world—Hong Kong, Singapore, Colombia, Israel, India—to work, to study and to teach at a modest little campus on Carmel Road. Some students come again and again to restore their creative vigor. And what is the mysterious allure that draws people from the four corners of the globe to a humble retreat center in the high desert? The quiet magnetism of Santa Fe Photographic Workshops. Aspiring photographers, beginning hobbyists and emerging professionals from thousands of miles away make the pilgrimage to the Workshops to refill their inspirational cup.

As a member of The Workshops fulltime staff, I’m often surprised by the many locals who are unaware of this invaluable resource. We have a cutting-edge printing studio and a lighting studio, and both overflow with a panoply of high-end gear that participants can practice on. There’s also a superb Nikon camera-lending library that would make any gadget geek weak in the knees. And yes, the workshops are taught by talented, world-renowned photographers. You have the chance to have a margarita with Joe McNally, to ask a National Geographic photo editor what she thinks of your work, or to get advice from Sam Abell. Instructors like Arthur Meyerson, Jock Sturges, Sam Abell, Nevada Wier, Kurt Markus, Marco Grob, Paul Mobley, Julieanne Kost, Joe McNally, Greg Gorman, Debbie Fleming Caffery, Gregory Heisler, Sylvia Plachy, Joyce Tenneson, Andrew Hetherington and Arno Minkkinen are carefully selected not only for their technical expertise and professional experience but also for their genuine willingness to nurture the craft of others and help them discover their own vision.

34

SEPTEMBER 2015

magazine.com

“

“

….finding your

| Katharine Egli

| Kelly James

st or y by MELYSSA HOLIK photos by WORKSHOP STUDENTS

creative self | Tapp Woodward

| Will Van Beckum

The Workshops also have Santa Fe’s timeless charm working in their favor. The campus is surrounded by stunning landscapes, rich culture and heritage, and is bolstered by a healthy dose of “good vibes”—Santa Fe’s trademark enchantment.

To get the most out of this location, most workshops photograph “on location” in areas that even longtime Santa Fe residents either don’t know about or can’t access. Past photo locales have included the Algodones Power Plant, The Scottish Rite Temple, secluded landscapes in Los Luceros and Plaza Blanca, Eaves Movie Ranch and even private residences and working ranches.

But ultimately, it’s not really about the gear or the location or even the information being taught. Fundamentally, what makes Santa Fe Workshops so special is something far less tangible. The crux of it is how a workshop can profoundly impact participants’ lives. The transcendent power of learning is at the heart of why Director Reid Callanan founded the workshops in 1990. He recalls, “In 1975, I went to Maine Photographic Workshops and I was exposed to a community and an environment—a whole world—that I had no idea existed. It was a revelation to me. I knew then and there I wanted to share that experience with as many people as possible.”

Over the past 26 years, he’s done just that for the tens of thousands of people who have passed through the doors of Santa Fe Workshops. With guidance and encouragement from their instructors, participants are supported, but also challenged. Over the course of five days, students learn about both sides of photography. As Reid points out, “Photography is a wonderful marriage of technical and creative. You can learn the technical aspects of photography pretty easily, and then you can learn to be creative with it.”

But more significantly, participants learn to see—really see—and to welcome creativity into their lives. As Reid observes, “Lots of people come here and say they aren’t creative, and then during their workshop, they discover that part of themselves. That’s one of the wonderful things about photography, it’s really open to everybody.”

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2015

35

SANTA FE PHOTOGRAPHIC WORKSHOPS When someone finds their inner creativity, an exquisite transformation happens. “I truly value the importance of having creativity in your life,” Reid muses. “Creativity sparks our curiosity and our imagination. It fuels our lives as humans. Imagination gives you hope. It lets you imagine a new life for yourself, a new world; it helps you try new things.”

For first-time workshop participants, the journey can be an intimidating process, often fraught with uncertainty and strong emotions. It’s not uncommon to see tears, frustration, self-doubt and soul-searching right alongside elation, laughter and epiphanies as students are pushed to see the world in a new way—to engage with the world more fully and, most importantly, to find their authentic point of view.

The intensity of the experience creates camaraderie and a strong bond between attendees.

A group of strangers spend five days together being creative and vulnerable, and they share in the journey as the brume of their fear gives way to newfound purpose and clarity.

People cry. People laugh. People get frustrated and tired. People have breakthroughs.

People are inspired. People find their voice. That’s the real secret of Santa Fe Workshops. It’s not really about photography or even about the workshops; it’s about the human experience that occurs here.

People connect. People grow.

People discover new parts of themselves. People learn to see and to let themselves be seen— truly seen.

Now that’s a secret worth sharing.

| Eduardo Rubiano

Santa Fe Photographic Workshops is a year-round photographic education facility that offers workshops for all skill levels, from beginner to professional. It is located at 50 Mt. Carmel Road in Santa Fe. 505.983.1400, ext. 111, santafeworkshops.com.

| Will Van Beckum

| Jake Rutherford

| Tania Vasallo

36

SEPTEMBER 2015

magazine.com

Dig this...

Take a little trip.

LODGING, DINING & LIVE MUSIC NIGHTLY at The HISTORIC TAOS INN

ON THE PATIO ON THE TAOS PLAZA

575.758-8866 www.thegorgebarandgrill.com

575.758.2233

taosinn.com

and 103.7 Albuquerque

Contemporary Jazz Chill - Latin Guitar Music You Won’t Hear Anywhere Else in New Mexico...

Relax and Unwind at The Oasis ...Your Escape from Ordinary Music Great fall fishing on the Rio Grande is here!

www.taosflyshop.com (575) 751-1312

1037theoasis.com

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2015

37

25Th aNNual

santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta Winery Dinner Sc heDule

Ad Compliments of Local Flavor Magazine

Wednesday, september 23 315 Restaurant Brunello 2010 (505) 986-9190 Bouche Bistro Hyde de Villaine & Domaine Anne Leflaive 982-6297 Dinner For Two Hand Picked Selections 820-2075 Galisteo Bistro Jackson Family 982-3700 La Plazuela J. Lohr 995-2316 Las Campanas Rombauer 995-3500 Rio Chama Michael David 955-0765 Santa Fe Bar & Grill Ca'Momi 982-3033 Sazón Galante 966-2670 thursday, september 24 Amaya Tour de France with Esprit du Vin Anasazi Restaurant Martinelli (with Regina Martinelli) Arroyo Vino Champagne & Burgundies of Frederick Wildman Bouche Bistro California Duet: Spottswoode/Ramey Café Pasqual's Susana Balbo and Ben Marco Club at Quail Run Merry Edwards Winery Compound Silver Oak (with Honorée of the Year Tim Duncan) Estevan Bodegas Ontañon Galisteo Bistro Craft and Estate Infierno Concha y Toro Joseph's of Santa Fe Ridge Vineyards Julia at La Posada Cakebread l'Olivier Elk Cove La Boca Spanish Wines of Folio La Casa Sena The Sorting Table Loyal Hound Vine Connections: Wines from Argentina Luminaria Gruet & Browne Family Old House Justin Vinyards Osteria d'Assisi Ferrari Carano Pranzo Cht Ste. Michelle Red Sage Plumpjack & Cade Restaurant Martin Duckhorn Vineyards The Tea House Fine Italian Wines of Empson USA Terra at Four Seasons Caymus

982-1200 946-4018 983-2100 982-6297 983-9340 986-2200 982-4353 930-5363 982-3700 466-1391 982-1272 986-0000 989-1919 982-3433 988-9232 471-0440 984-7915 995-4599 986-5858 984-2645 816-2056 820-0919 992-0972 946-5700

FrIday, september 25 315 Restaurant Arroyo Vino The Compound Restaurant Galisteo Bistro Las Campanas Luminaria l'Olivier Osteria d'Assisi

986-9190 983-2100 982-4353 982-3700 995-3500 984-7915 989-1919 986-5858

Schug Terry Theise Estate Collections Heitz Martha's Vineyard Cline Cellars Champagne Ruinart & Newton Merryvale Starmont Frog's Leap Antinori Italian Wines

2nD AnnuAl GrAn FonDo SunDAy SePTeMBer 27Th

Ride ThRu FouR hisToRic New Mexico Villages (45-Mile oR 70-Mile loop) New Mexico's pReMieR culiNaRy Bike Ride FouR guesT cheF RideRs wiTh Food sTops Matthew accarrino, spQR, san Francisco (Food & wine Magazine’s Best New chef 2014) andrew cooper, Four seasons Rancho encantado (James Beard Best chef of the southwest nominee) Mark Kiffin, The Compound Restaurant, Santa Fe (James Beard Best chef of the southwest) kevin Nashan, sidney street cafe, st. louis (James Beard Semifinalist Best Chef Midwest ) FouR seasoNs RaNcho eNcaNTado - 7:00 aM sTaRT To NaMBe, cuNdiyo, TRuchas & chiMayo - $75 chaMpagNe RuiNaRT RecepTioN aT The FiNish!

“Desert Light” by Dan Namingha, SFWC Featured Artist 2015 Acrylic on canvas 20” x 26”

Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta 2015

“desert light” by dan Namingha Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta Featured Artist 2015 Poster and Tee Shirt available online

50 5 - 43 8 - 80 60 w w w.sant af ew ine an dc h i l e. o r g LocalFlavorSWFC2015Sept.indd 1

8/26/15 12:43 P

ALBUQUERQUE 3403 Central NE • 266-7855 10701 Corrales Rd. NW • 899-7500 11225 Montgomery NE • 271-0882 321 West San Francisco, Santa Fe • 986-8700

great food deserves great photography W IN E BIS T R O

Join us for a special Prix-Fixe Dinner Menu and wine flights all week featuring Girard Wines of Napa during Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta

professional food photography & styling

Lunch & Dinner Monday–Saturday Sunday Supper 304 Johnson St, Santa Fe 505-989-1166 terracottawinebistro.com

holikdesign.com

melyssa@holikdesign.com

w w w. h o l i k d e s i g n . c o m A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2015

39

STILL ROASTING & CRUSHING

25 Years Later Photo: courtesy of Wine & Chile Fiesta

stor y by GREG O’BYRNE

+ For an insider’s rundown of the past 25 years of Fiesta---with an eye on the personalities who braved the perils and made Fiesta great go to localflavormagazine.com.

W

hile other national food and wine events focus on globetrotting celebrity guest chefs, national magazine advertisers or Food Network stars (some of whom have never worked in a restaurant), the identity of The Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta, since its inception in 1991, has always been and still is the Santa Fe restaurant community.

On a bright and slightly cool afternoon in the Santa Fe railyard on the last Saturday of September 1991, a one-day food and wine event took place where, for $10, you could buy a coupon book with 10 chits, each one redeemable for either a taste from one of the 20 participating Santa Fe restaurants or a sip from one of 20 California wineries. Forty tasting booths were lined along the perimeter of the L-shaped parking lot behind the Sanbusco Market Center. In the front corner, a street vendor slowly turned the handle on his chile roaster, blistering a fresh batch of Hatch green, the smoke wafting into the crisp fall air.

In a smallish tent on the opposite corner, three of the founders of modern Southwestern cuisine—Mark Miller of Coyote Café in Santa Fe, Rick Bayless of Topolobampo in Chicago and Stephan Pyles of Routh Street Cafe in Dallas—took turns demonstrating their chile-cooking techniques.

That day, I worked the Coyote Café booth, quickly flipping griddled corn cakes and seared shrimp, then plating each with a smidge of chipotle butter and a spoon of salsa fresca. My co-worker, Sarah, swapped our samples for coupons with the lively wine-supping crowd of 300. Looking up from my hot flattop under the clear high-desert sky, I had no way of knowing that I was witnessing the birth of the inaugural Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta, now going stronger than ever at age 25.

Josh Jensen, owner of Calera Wine Company and a California Pinot Noir pioneer, was one of the featured guests at that first event. “In 1991, Calera was newly available in New Mexico.” Jensen recalls, “So I happily agreed to be on a panel Saturday morning about harmonizing the flavors of fine wines and chiles, and to pour our wines at the Saturday afternoon tasting for consumers. Mark Miller, who I’d known from his Berkeley restaurant days before he moved 40

SEPTEMBER 2015

magazine.com

| Santa Fe Wine and Chile Board of Directors

to Santa Fe to open Coyote Café, was the moderator of the panel, which basically meant that the rest of us didn’t have to open our mouths; Mark has never met a microphone he didn’t like.”

Although Jensen was more than happy to participate, he doubted the event would be more than a one-off affair. “To the organizers of that initial Fiesta I shared my opinion that their event would never make the grade unless they moved it to a different time of year; the last week of September is absolutely smack in the middle of California’s—and much of the rest of the world’s—grape harvest,” Jensen explains. “Wineries, or at least winemakers, wouldn’t leave their wineries in any numbers at that time of year.”

Twenty-two years later, in 2013, and again in 2014, Jensen returned to the Fiesta—not only eating samples from the dozens of featured Fiesta restaurants, but a little bit of crow as well. “There was a cast of thousands, raising enormous sums every year for worthy New Mexican charities,” Jensen says. “All the hotels and fine restaurants in and around Santa Fe booked up months in advance. Foodies from across all spectrums were beating a path to Santa Fe every September. I guess that shows I’m not great at predicting the future. ” Still roasting and crushing 25 years later, the original one-day Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta has exploded into a five-day epicurean extravaganza.

The 25th rendition will feature eight cooking demonstrations at the Santa Fe School of Cooking, eight wine seminars hosted by four master sommeliers, six guest-chef winery luncheons, 40 wine-pairing dinners at Santa Fe restaurants, a reserve wine tasting, a live auction, a Ruinart champagne brunch at Four Seasons Resort Rancho Encantado, a Gran Fondo bike ride to Truchas and the pièce de résistance—still on the last Saturday in September—the Grand Tasting, with 100 world-class wineries serving tastes alongside 80 Santa Fe restaurants to 3,500 food and wine enthusiasts on the grounds of The Santa Fe Opera, overlooking the Sangre de Cristo Mountains in all their explosive, golden fall glory.

25th Annual Wine and Chile Fiesta, September 23-27, 505.438.8060. Visit santafechilefiesta.org for events, times, locations and tickets.

Vincent Price Dinner

50th Anniversary Cookbook signing with Victoria Price Thursday, September 24th 4 course meal with amazing selections from his newly re-printed, world famous cookbook $55–75 per person 231 Washington Ave Santa Fe • santacafe.com • Reservations: 505-984-1788 or

Coming mid September

The

GOOD OL’ ZIA has a

This Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta is your opportunity to experience Quail Run Club for an awe-inspiring food and wine pairing featuring wines from California’s pioneer woman winemaker, Merry Edwards. Dinner from Chef Evan Doughty and the culinary team will include pairings with beautiful Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast Pinot Noirs for a spectacular, festive event.

Make reservations now for this exclusive September 24th dinner. Call 986-2200 for reservations.

GREAT NEW MENU! Comfort Food Reinvented!

Bold New Flavors Fun New Cocktails Fresh New Desserts Follow us on Facebook and Instagram to see photos and watch our progress

Quail Run Club offers dining, health club & golf memberships.

Call today for more information or to schedule a tour.

3101 Old Pecos Trail quailrunsantafe.org *A credit card guarantee is required at time of reservation.

326 S. Guadalupe • 988-7008 • www.ziadiner.com

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2015

41

who’s

WHO

1 Andy Barnes

Chef

Dinner for Two

22 Augustin Bencomo

Chef de Cuisine

Vanessie

2 Steven Lemon

Chef/Owner

Pranzo Italian Grill

23 Joshua Ortiz

Exec. Chef

The Palace Restaurant

3 Rueben Reyes

Chef

The Ranch House

24 Erika Balderas

Sous Chef

The Palace Restaurant

4 Moises Garcia

Sous Chef

The Ranch House

25 Mark Connell Chef

Fables

5 Arnold Arvizo

Exec. Chef

Garbo’s/The Montecito

26 Nelson Edmonds

Exec. Chef

Casa Chimayo

6 Noe Sanchez

Chef de Cuisine

La Casa Sena

27 Francisco Aguilar

Chef

Pizzeria da Lino

7 Jeffrey Kaplan

Exec. Chef

The Bistro/Courtyard by Marriott

28 Ramon Torres

Sous Chef

Pizzeria da Lino

8 Alberto Leon

Sous Chef

The Bistro/Courtyard by Marriott

29 Johnnie Holley

Chef

Radish & Rye

9 Mary Loya

Sous Chef

Julia/La Posada de Santa Fe

30 Ahmed Obo

Chef/Owner

Jambo Café

Exec. Chef

Galisteo Bistro

31 Stephen Archuleta

Sous Chef

Hilton Buffalo Thunder

11 Dale Kester

Sous Chef

Joseph’s Culinary Pub

32 Ali Mzee

Line Cook

Jambo Café

12 Joe Wrede

Chef/Partner

Joseph’s Culinary Pub

33 Rodrigo Kelly

Culinary Supervisor

Hilton Buffalo Thunder

13 Andrew Cooper

Exec. Chef

Terra/Four Seasons Rancho Encantado

34 Adan Almanza

Culinary Supervisor

Iguana Café/Hilton Buffalo Thunder

14 Elizabeth DeSantis

Pastry Chef

Terra/Four Seasons Rancho Encantado

41 Hillary Ginepra

Exec. Pastry Chef

SF Culinary Academy

15 Marco Aguilar

Sous Chef

Terra/Four Seasons Rancho Encantado

42 David Gaspar de Alba

Exec. Chef

Radish & Rye

16 Sllin Cruz

Chef de Cuisine

Geronimo

43 Edward D. Melvin

Chef

Radish & Rye

17 Ericka Rodriguez

Exec. Pastry Chef

Geronimo & Coyote Café

44 David Mora Chef

Boxcar

18 Victor Campos

Sous Chef

Geronimo

45 Rigaberto Hidalgo

Cook

Zia Diner

19 Lane Warner

Exec. Chef

La Plazuela/La Fonda

46 Peter Walsh

Exec. Chef

Zia Diner

20 Peter P. Vigil

Banquet Chef

La Plazuela/La Fonda

47 Nelson H. Trujillo

Sous Chef

El Farol

21 Russ Thornton

Chef

Joe’s Dining

48 Every Paz

Exec. Chef

El Farol

10

Brian Muller

42

SEPTEMBER 2015

magazine.com

photo by STEPHEN LANG

49 Francisco Celote

Lead Cook

Restaurant Martín

50 Carlos Alvarado

Exec. Sous Chef

Restaurant Martín

51 Elio Licano

Sous Chef

Del Charro/Inn of the Governors

52 Brent Jung

Owner

Izmi Sushi

53 Hyun Lee

Owner

Izmi Sushi

54 Tony Smith

Exec. Chef

Old House/Eldorado

55 James Forbes

Sous Chef

Old House/Eldorado

56 Thomas Hartwell

Exec. Sous Chef

Hilton Buffalo Thunder

57 Alex Zamora

Chef de Cuisine

Painted Parrot/Hilton Buffalo Thunder

58 Edgar Morales

Chef de Cuisine

Red Sage/Hilton Buffalo Thunder

59 Luis Quezada

Exec. Chef

Hilton Buffalo Thunder

60 Candelaria Gonzales

Kitchen Manager

Maria’s

61 Alvaro Ramirez

Exec. Chef

Maria’s

63 Juan Bochenski

Exec. Chef

Anasazi Restaurant

64 Mariano Martinez

Chef

315 Restaurant & Wine Bar

65 Israel Celote

Chef

315 Restaurant & Wine Bar

66 Carlos ZoZaya

Banquet Chef

Luminaria/Inn at Loretto

67 Reagan Nelson

Exec. Sous Chef

La Boca

68 Jose L. Rodriguez

Exec. Chef

Taberna/La Boca

69 Josh Gerwin

Chef/Owner

Dr. Field Goods

70 Jose Guzman

Exec. Chef

Del Charro/Inn of the Governors

71 Ruben Tanuz

Sous Chef

Terra/Four Seasons Rancho Encantado

72 Todd Hall

Exec. Chef

Julia/ La Posada de Santa Fe

73 Marc Quiñones

Exec. Chef

74 Colin Shane

Chef

Luminaria/Inn at Loretto Arroyo Vino

75 Xavier Grenet Chef/Owner L’Olivier 76 Santiago Ceja

Sous Chef

L’Olivier

77 Saul Valtierra Padilla

Exec. Chef

Gabriel’s

78 Charles Dale

Chef/Owner

Bouche Bistro

79 Luis Almeida

Sous Chef

Midtown Bistro

80 Noe Cano

Chef de Cuisine

SF School of Cooking

81 Angel Estrada

Exec. Chef

Midtown Bistro

82 Tony Blankenship

Exec. Chef

Rio Chama Steakhouse

83 Rony Gutierrez

Sous Chef

Dinner for Two

84 Preciliano Ruiz

Chef

Café Pasqual’s

85 Jen Doughty

Chef

Agoyo Lounge/Inn on the Alameda

86 Deonte Jackson

Cook

Agoyo Lounge/Inn on the Alameda

87 Zach Stoltz

Sous Chef

Agoyo Lounge/Inn on the Alameda

88 Fernando Ruiz

Exec. Chef

Santacafé

89 Felix E. Ramirez

Sous Chef

Santacafé

90 Evan Doughty

Exec. Chef

Club at Quail Run

91 Paulraj Karuppasamy

Chef

Paper Dosa

92 Mario Mendoza

Sous Chef

Coyote Café

Wed, Sept 16: Una Vita Olive Oil 6 Course Dinner

93 Eduardo Rodriguez

Exec. Sous Chef

Coyote Café

Thurs, Sept 24: Ferrari Carano Dinner

94 Joe Saccoccia

Exec. Chef

Garduño’s

95 Edward Marquez

Sous Chef

Georgia

96 LeRoy Alvarado

Exec. Chef

Georgia

Sous Chef

Osteria D’Assisi

Exec. Chef

Osteria D’Assisi

97 Ismael Majera

98 Cristian Pontiggia

99 Paddy Rawal Chef/Owner Raaga 100 Ann Suthirat Ferragamo

Chef/Owner

Fri, Sept 25: Antinori Dinner Every Wed–Sun @7pm: Piano Lounge & Bar Menu For Reservations call: 505-986-5858 58 S. Federal Place • Santa Fe • osteriadassisi.com

Thai Café

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2015

43

44

SEPTEMBER 2015

magazine.com

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2015

45

TUESDAYS

at the park stor y by EMILY RUCH photos by JOY GODFREY

W

“

“

I like to imagine Albuquerque’s lovely Hyder Park as a desert oasis where life happens, all manner of creatures gather, and interesting patterns emerge.

ater means life in the desert, and the color of life in this sweltering, arid climate—painted subtly into our subtle landscape—is green. Here in the high desert, we can trace the course of rivers and acequias, and pinpoint watering holes from miles away just by following the color. A cool, silvery ripple of sage here, a deep, viridian dapple of juniper there, and where the water runs most abundantly, the bright cadmium of cottonwood. Every desert dweller knows that life happens in the green places. All manner of creatures gather at the oasis, and—like watercolors bleeding gracefully together—interesting patterns emerge when they interact. This is how I like to imagine Albuquerque’s lovely Hyder Park: as a desert oasis where life happens, all manner of creatures gather, and interesting patterns emerge. Let me paint it for you.

Growing at the confluence of several quiet streets just inside the western periphery of charming Southeast Heights, Hyder Park is shockingly lush and verdant. Deliciously and vibrantly green. A mature grove of cottonwood trees keeps the park luxuriously shady and cool, providing a pleasant respite from the intense Southwestern sun that feels as refreshing as a cup of cold water. Or a glass of lemonade on a hot summer day—which you can find at Hyder Park every Tuesday evening throughout the hottest months of the year. During Tasty Tuesdays, this sleepy little emerald of a park perks up as families and friends from every direction gather to drink in the sweet, refreshing water of life.

Burqueños flock to the park each week beginning around 4:30 in the afternoon. Cars line the streets for blocks all around. Bikes amass, leaning in great stacks against the trunks of trees or swimming like schools of fish in the grass. Many people walk, pushing strollers or leading dogs. Everyone seems, somehow, to know everyone else—their many playful and picnicking circles overlapping like ripples in a lake. “Like all of these blankets are Venn diagrams,” says my friend, Kate, who—along with her fiancé and their young son—invited me here to hang out. “I think you’re right.” As we sit sprawling casually on Kateand-family’s blanket, she tells me the story of how they met and came to be a couple.

And this seems like just exactly the right time and place—surrounded as we are by so many happy, young families—to hear such a story. The tale is interrupted again and again as Kate waves or ducks over to welcome friends she sees wandering through the crowd. “That’s our midwife,” she tells me, pointing out a woman on the far side of the park. “We love her.” Love is palpable here, one of the essential ingredients that make Tasty Tuesdays much more than a convergence of food trucks, live music and free yoga (although each of those 46

SEPTEMBER 2015

magazine.com

components contributes to the spirit of the event). Tuesdays at Hyder Park are, rather, a genuine expression of community. An unpretentious celebration of simply calling this place home.

An outpouring of life and love.

What will you find in Hyder Park on a typical Tuesday?

Dogs rolling in the grass. Kids rolling in the grass. Cartwheels, handstands, freestyle dancing.

Soccer, football, frisbee, games of tag. Bubble chasing. Herds of children skipping, crawling on all fours, holding hands. Hula hoops. “Ice cold lemonade!” at an old-time lemonade stand.

Tickling. Picnics pulled from grocery bags, baskets, red Radio Flyer wagons. Homemade sun tea. Tomboys. Billowy hot pink tutus. Blanket capes. Balloons. Slow motion play-fighting. Sometimes movies are projected onto sheets that are suspended between low-hanging branches. Sometimes people get haircuts at mobile salons. Sometimes they swing each other around until they all fall down laughing. Imagine a weekly backyard barbeque where everyone feels right at home—on a community scale. Anything that’s friendly and fun is welcome here.

Lest I fail to give our community-oriented food trucks the credit they deserve, however, let me point out that Tasty Tuesdays began two years ago as, well, a convergence of food trucks, live music, and free yoga. Inspiration for the event is attributed to The Supper Truck, one of Albuquerque’s gourmet food trucks, and The Boiler Monkey, the self-described “food truck that grew up,” and this year, Irrational Pie, a gourmet food truck specializing in authentic wood-fired pizza, has stepped up as the event’s primary organizer. Those who would rather not pack their own dinners can find The Supper Truck, Irrational Pie, Street Food Institute, and Pop Fizz at Hyder Park every week from four o’clock until it gets dark out.

Lines at the trucks are reasonable early in the evening, but they grow longer and longer the later it gets, so if you plan to give them a try (and you should—they’re scrumptious), show up early. What’s on their gourmet menus? Gluten-free shrimp and grits at The Supper Truck: grilled shrimp, bacon, white-wine cream sauce, roasted red pepper coulis, green onion and parsley over creamy, stoneground South Carolina grits. “Georgia on my mind pizza” at Irrational Pie: local, organic, grilled peaches and mascarpone on a hand-tossed crust. Korean barbeque pork shoulder A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2015

47

TUESDAYS

at the park tacos at Street Food Institute: barbecued pork shoulder, gochujang chile paste, homemade kimchi and cotija cheese, folded into soft corn tortillas. And for dessert, cucumber chile lime, pineapple habanero, or mango red-chile paletas at Pop Fizz.

Live music—featuring musicians and bands like Lilah Rose, Alex Maryol and Zoltan Orkestar—kicks off at 5:30, followed shortly thereafter, at 6, by free yoga. Yoga is taught by an instructor from one of several yoga studios around town—including Kalm, SWEAT and Lululemon/ABQ Uptown—to name a few, and the class is very popular. With the freedom to arrange themselves more organically than they otherwise might in the confines of a studio, yogis fan out around their instructor, a rainbow half-moon of mats beneath them as they practice Utkatasana, Chair Pose, while the sun begins to sink.

Compared to the relative chaos in the rest of the park, the yogis seem particularly serene. Not long after their lesson ends, the sun sets, the music stops, and the cicadas start to thrum.

As the last of the crowd trickles home—their thirst quenched once more after drinking deeply at the local oasis—Hyder Park drifts gently back into a deep, blue-green slumber. Waiting with quiet patience for another week to pass, waiting for the reemergence of the park’s most interesting patterns, waiting for the return of its richly varied creatures, waiting for the lovely viridescence of life to happen yet again.

For more information visit: facebook.com/TastyTuesdaysABQ for Tasty Tuesdays; boilermonkeybistro.com for The Boiler Monkey; ilovesupper. com for The Supper Truck; irrationalpies.com for Irrational Pie; streetfoodinstitute.org for Street Food Institute, pop-fizz.net for Pop Fizz; kalmyoganm.com for Kalm Yoga; sweatyogastudio.com for SWEAT Yoga Studio; and.lululemon.com/stores/us/albuquerque/abquptown for Lululemon/ABQ Uptown.

48

SEPTEMBER 2015

magazine.com

American Bistro & Wine Bar Locally Owned

Locally Sourced

Hand Picked Wines

Craft Beers on Tap

Happy Hour

Live Music

Validated Parking

Reservations

Hours of Operation (Lunch and Dinner)

Monday - Thursday : 11:30am - 9:00pm Friday - Saturday : 11:30am - 10:30pm 109 Gold Ave SW (505) 244-3344 Albuquerque, NM 87102 www.soulandvine.com

wine & chile isn’t just for september! prix fixe menu every sunday wine pairings with specials nightly open late 7 days a week italian fare with southwestern flare 500 Sandoval Street 505.466.1391 infiernosantafe.com

A t t e n t i o n Before you let any hair stylists touch your hair, read this!

With so many salons to choose from, how do you choose the right stylist for you?

Here are 5 reasons why you’ll never look for another salon after you give DIVA HAIR DESIGN a try: 1. We cater to an international diverse clientele which requires us

to stay on top of the latest cutting, styling and coloring techniques

2. We aren’t the cheapest or the most expensive.

You get a terrific haircut and color for a fair price.

3. We use the finest products: ABBA TRI, GOLDWELL, FRAMESI, MATRIX, SCHWARZKOPE, LANZA and more.

4. We’d be happy to do a FREE, no-obligation consultation to give you ideas about styles for you.

5. We don’t over-schedule because we know that your time is valuable. lash & brow tints • wedding styles • waxing

DIVA www.DIVASantaFe.com • 505-982-6816 125 e palace ave Suite 78 sena plaza (located in downtown Santa Fe)

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2015

49

Photo: Gabriella Marks

I HEARD IT ON THE | Erin Brooks

S

stor y by ERIN BROOKS

grapevine

eptember marks the most important milestone of the year (in the northern hemisphere) for winemakers, grape growers, oenophiles and anyone else whose career or pleasure depends on vitis vinifera—it’s harvest time. The

previous season’s pursuits hang in golden and purple clusters on rows of vines from California to France. Workers pick tons upon tons of grapes and winemakers endure sleepless nights monitoring the progress of fermenting juice. But for those lucky enough to live in Santa Fe, September promises a week full of great food, wine and general revelry with the annual Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta. With over 150 participating wineries, importers and distributors (not to mention the incredible lineup of local restaurants), and the celebration of the event’s 25th year, 2015 is shaping up to be one of the best Fiestas yet. This year’s participating wineries have a lot to report since last year’s festivities, including a slew of awards, new winemakers, the introduction of new wines and even a marriage or two.

Photo: Courtesy of Tablas Creek

| Tablas Creek Vineyard

Photo: Courtesy of CADE

| CADE

Photo: Courtesy of Crawford Malone

| Crawford Malone, Fess Parker Winery

Silver Oak Cellars, SFWC’s Honoree of the Year, acquired full ownership of a Missouri-based cooperage producing American oak barrels.

Founded in 1972 by Raymond T. Duncan and Justin Meyer, Silver Oak makes two Cabernets— one from Napa Valley and the other from Alexander Valley in Sonoma County. New winemaker Nate Weis (formerly of Antica Napa Valley) will have the opportunity not only to hand-select grapes, but to hand-select staves for the barrels in which his wines will age. Talk about quality control!

CADE, perched high up on Howell Mountain in Napa Valley, was created in 2005 by the founders of Plumpjack Winery as a compliment to that label’s valley-floor wines. CADE had reason to celebrate this year, as winemaker Danielle Cyrot released the first wines she nurtured all the way from vine to bottle. A graduate of UC Davis, Cyrot has worked harvests at Schramsberg and Artesa Vineyards in Napa and has worked for wineries in Alsace, France and South Australia. Danielle will continue to lead CADE in its commitment to sustainability— the winery was the first Leadership in Energy & Environmental Design Gold Certified in the Napa Valley.

One of my favorite wineries, Elk Cove in the Willamette Valley, got busy with bubbles and released its first-ever sparkling rosé. The 2011 “La Bohème” Sparkling Brut Rosé is made using the traditional Champagne method. The wine is composed of Pinot Noir grapes from the La Bohème vineyard, one of the highest elevation vineyard sites in the Willamette Valley. Aged on the lees for three years and disgorged in 2015, I don’t know who’s got more to celebrate, Elk Cove or those lucky enough to score a bottle!

Ramey Wine Cellars had an unexpected surprise when Decanter Magazine named their Platt Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, 2010 Chardonnay

50

SEPTEMBER 2015

magazine.com

Photo: Courtesy of Silver Oak Cellars

Photo: Courtesy of Black Mesa Winery

| Black Mesa Winery

| Silver Oak Fermentation Room

one of the best Chardonnays in the world outside Burgundy.

Winemaker David Ramey, who crafted wines at Dominus and Rudd before starting his own label, makes a classic California style of Chardonnay: oaked, rich, round and opulent, but with plenty of juicy acidity to whet any palate.

| Spottswoode Kraft Cellar Historic Building

Photo: Courtesy of Spottswoode

Speaking of awards, New Mexico’s own Black Mesa Winery brought home the bacon with an array of medals this year. The winery earned two silver medals from the 2015 Finger Lakes International Wine Competition for its 2012 Merlot and Malbec, beating over 3,000 other competitors. The 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon and Cosecha Ultima dessert wine were each awarded Jefferson Cups at the 2014 Jefferson Cup Invitational Wine Competition, which took place in November. Heavyweight winemaker Karl Johnsen brought home several other awards from the Indy International Wine Competition and also laid claim to a gold medal at the New Mexico State Fair for its 2010 Petite Sirah.

Cheers to Valerie Masten, vice president of national sales at Skurnik Wines, an importing and distributing company whose book includes some of the greatest producers in Germany and elsewhere great wine is to be found. Valerie tied the knot with wine writer Jon Bonné, author of The New California Wine: A Guide to the Producers and Wines Behind a Revolution in Taste, senior contributing editor at Punch Drink, U.S. columnist for Decanter Magazine and former wine editor of the San Francisco Chronicle. The two married at Bedrock Winery’s Bedrock Vineyard in Sonoma. The Bedrock wines will be featured in The New California Wine seminar on September 24, where Beth Novak Milliken of Spottswoode, Jason Haas of Tablas Creek and Sarah Harshaw of LIOCO Wine Company will talk about a new style of California wine that emphasizes restraint and transparency.

Photo: Courtesy of Skurnik Wines

Tablas Creek came out on top when the Daily Meal published its 101 Best Wineries in America. The Paso Robles winery, a leader in the use of both red and white Rhône varietals like Roussanne, Mourvèdre, Grenache and Viognier, was named No. 1. It’s nothing less than we’d expect from a property owned by Robert Haas, the prominent importer and founder of Vineyard Brands, and the Perrin Family of Château de Beaucastel in Chateauneuf-du-Pape.

| Nate and Michael Skurnik

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2015

51

I HEARD IT ON THE

grapevine

The Best Selections at the most competitive prices

2015 marked the 30th year of organic farming at Spottswoode Winery. Spottswoode was the first to pioneer this approach in 1985, and the Spottswoode Estate vineyard was certified organic in 1992, the second vineyard in the Napa Valley to earn California Certified Organic Farmers certification. The winery releases just four wines and has also introduced biodynamic farming principles in recent years.

LIOCO, a “new world négociant” producing wine from grapes grown in Sonoma, Mendocino and Santa Cruz counties, will be at SFWC showing its wines for the first time in New Mexico. Founders Matt Licklider and Kevin O’Connor met in Beverly Hills, when Kevin worked as wine director at Spago and Matt was the national sales director for North Berkeley Imports. The wines, vinified at a cooperative winery in Santa Rosa, emphasize a more restrained style.

Crawford Malone, founder of Crawford Malone Fine Wine & Spirits, will show off the amazing group of wines he represents including Frog’s Leap, Corison, Burgess, Fess Parker, Inglenook, Round Pound Estate, Wente and his own label, Billhook Wine. These are some of the gems of California and are worth a second (and third) sip. Frog’s Leap winemaker John Williams is committed to sustainable farming and all the winery’s vines are dry-farmed. 2015 marks the culmination of an exciting project with the “lost varieties of Napa Valley,” lesser-known grapes that were popular during prohibition but have since faded from view. Frog’s Leap has grafted varieties like Mourvèdre, Mondeuse and Charbono, and will harvest some of these unusual berries this year.

Ruinart makes some of my favorite bubbles, and I’m not the only one who enjoys these wines. The Champagne house has been named this year’s SFWC Champagne of the Year, but Ruinart is also celebrating another honor. UNESCO recently listed several “Champagne vineyards, houses, and cellars” as world heritage sites, and Ruinart is included in that list. It’s no surprise, considering Ruinart is the oldest established Champagne house, founded in 1729, with some of the most impressive underground chalk cellars of the region. The wines will be featured in the “Champagne 101” seminar on September 25. Megan Gordon, Champagne Ruinart Brand ambassador, will take sippers through several different styles of Ruinart, including non-vintage and vintage blanc de blancs and rosé.

Lucky attendees will also have the chance to taste some older vintages and experience the heavenly things that happen to a bottle of aged Champagne.

The wine world is constantly changing, but thankfully we can all depend on September for a fabulous Wine & Chile Fiesta.

Cheers to this year’s participating wineries.

Santa Fe’s got some great drinking to look forward to!

52

SEPTEMBER 2015

magazine.com

Competitive Prices Largest Selections Friendly Staff Something for every Taste Temperature Controlled Wine Cellar Wine Manager on Duty We also carry over 20 varieties of keg beer

Presently Stoc

Wine tasting every Saturday 4pm - 7pm

Over 3500 Wi

800 Beer Choi

105 Single Ma

220 Types of V 222 Tequilas FINE WINE & LIQUOR

136 Types of R

Est. 1981

Established 1981 Presently Stocking Over 3,500 Wines • 1,000 Beer Choices kokoman@cybermesa.com 105 Single Malt Scotches • 390 Types of Vodka 222 Tequilas • 157• Types of Rum Hwy 84/285 Pojoaque 12 miles North of Santa Fe

505.455.2219

check out our “best of” video on youtube https://youtu.be/z38Xt7KNSGs

Conveniently located 12 easy miles north of Santa Fe and on the way to all your favorite destinations in Northern New Mexico...

505-455-2219 • kokoman@cybermesa.com 34 Cities of Gold Road • Hwy 84/285 Pojoaque 87506

Es

CAKEBREAD CELLARS WINE DINNER Thursday, September 24th - $150 Wine Dinner Reservations: 505-954-9614 Reception – 6:30 pm Passed Hors d’Oeuvres with Cakebread Cellars Sauvignon Blanc

For reservations, please call 505-954-9614

Dinner – 7:30 pm Duck Liver Pate with Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay Julia’s Apricot Chutney, Vanilla Poached Pears, Pickled Ramps, Toasted Baguette Melange of Heirloom Beets with Cakebread Cellars Pinot Noir Roasted Heirloom Beets, Laura Chenel’s Chevre, Lollo Roas, Frisse, Potato Tuille, Red Wine Vinaigrette Spiced Colorado Lamb Rack with Cakebread Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Black Quinoa Tabbouleh, Marinated Yellow Watermelon, Pistachio Crumble Bourbon Vanilla Frozen Sabayon with Strawberry Fresno Consomme 330 East Palace Avenue • laposadadesantafe.com

INVISIBLE CITY DESIGNS brand strategies graphic design marketing solutions creative direction

Alex Hanna 505.9 8 6 .1453 invisiblecitydes igns.com

Thank you for a wonderful Summer Santa Fe! Join us for our Wine Dinner on Thursday, September 24, 2015 and enjoy our gorgeous patio one last time before the Autumn chill.

Daily Hours: Monday - Friday: Lunch 11am - 2:30pm | Dinner 5pm - 9pm Saturday: Brunch 10am - 2:30pm | Dinner 5pm - 9pm Sunday: Brunch 10am - 2:30pm

M

IDTOWN bistro

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2015

53

still HUNGRY?

story by CAITLIN RICHARDS

J. LOHR VINEYARDS AND WINERY Brie Baked Artichoke with Riverstone Chardonnay Cream paired with J. Lohr Estates Riverstone Chardonnay Serves 4 4 large artichokes, cooked 8 ounces Brie cheese, cut into small squares 1/2 cup shallots, chopped 1 Tablespoon olive oil 1/4 cup white wine vinegar 3/4 cup J. Lohr Estates Riverstone Chardonnay 1/2 cup heavy cream 8 ounces unsalted butter, diced 2 ounces mustard, whole grain 1 Tablespoon lemon juice 1/2 ounces horseradish, hot salt and pepper to taste

(Recipe created by Chef Tony Baker, of Montrio Restaurant, Monterey, Calif., reprinted courtesy of J. Lohr Vineyards and Winery) Chef ’s comment: “This is a banging share appetizer! Who said wine and artichokes don’t go together? While the sommeliers are weeping, I’m sipping a deliciously chilled glass of J. Lohr Estates Chardonnay while peeling leaf after leaf of rich, cheesy goodness!”

Artichoke Preparation Trim the stem from the artichoke so it can sit up; remove the furry choke from the heart if it hasn’t already been removed. Gently separate the leaves and place the cheese randomly throughout the artichoke (2 ounces per choke). Place in a 350-degree oven for 15 minutes, until the artichoke is hot and the Brie is nice and soft. Remove the artichoke from the oven and pour generous amounts of the Chardonnay cream sauce (recipe below) over the choke and serve with grilled bread.

Chardonnay Cream Sauce In a saucepan, sweat the shallots in the olive oil, add the vinegar and bring to a simmer. Add the wine and gently simmer for 3 minutes. Add the cream and bring to a simmer, then gradually whisk in the butter on low heat. When all of the butter is incorporated, add the mustard, lemon and horseradish.

Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Note: The sauce is intended to be served immediately after preparation.

CR’s notes: The most decadent of the dishes. Wow! Artichoke, cheese, cream sauce, what’s not to love? I never would have come up with this on my own. The wine pairing really does work, too. It’s very rich, as you can imagine—I wasn’t able to finish my artichoke. As an appetizer, you could probably get two servings out of one artichoke, though the presentation would suffer a bit.

See what La Plazuela does with J. Lohr wines at their wine dinner, Wednesday, September 23. 505.995.2316 for reservations.

54

SEPTEMBER 2015

magazine.com

CLINE CELLARS Grilled Portobello Mushrooms stuffed with Spinach and Dried Tomatoes paired with Cline Sonoma County Syrah Serves 4 Jim Caroompas of Cline Cellars says the Sonoma County Syrah “is a delicate, medium-bodied Syrah with supple tannins, making it an excellent fit for a complex but ‘quiet’ dish like stuffed Portobello mushrooms. “ Prep time: 30 minutes | Grilling time: 10-15 minutes Filling 10 ounces baby spinach leaves, rinsed Extra-virgin olive oil 1⁄2 cup finely chopped yellow onion 2 teaspoons finely chopped garlic 1 cup finely diced ripe tomato 1⁄4 cup oil-packed, sun-dried tomatoes, thinly sliced 1⁄4 cup pitted and coarsely chopped Kalamata olives Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper 4 large portobello mushrooms, 5-6 inches in diameter 1⁄4 cup fine, soft bread crumbs Preparation To make the filling: In a large saucepan over high heat, cook the spinach just until wilted, 1 to 2 minutes, stirring frequently.

Transfer the spinach to a sieve and drain until cooled. Squeeze out the remaining liquid with your hands, and then roughly chop the spinach. You should have about 1 cup.

Wipe out the saucepan and warm 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until golden, about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds. Add the diced tomatoes and cook for 1 minute, stirring occasionally. Add the spinach, sun-dried tomatoes, olives, 1⁄2 teaspoon salt, and 1⁄4 teaspoon pepper. Cook until all the moisture has evaporated, 1 to 2 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Remove the saucepan from the heat.

Remove and discard the mushroom stems. With a teaspoon, carefully scrape out the black gills from the mushroom caps and discard. Generously brush or spray the mushroom caps with oil and season them with 1⁄4 teaspoon salt. Grill, smooth sides up, over direct medium heat until well-marked, about 5 minutes.

Transfer to a work surface, smooth sides down. Spoon a thin layer of the filling onto the mushrooms, spreading it evenly to the edges.

In a small bowl toss the bread crumbs with 1 tablespoon of oil, and salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle each stuffed mushroom evenly with a thin layer of crumbs. Grill the mushrooms, smooth sides down, over direct medium heat until the crumbs are browned and the mushrooms are tender, 5 to 10 minutes more.

Serve warm.

T

he 25th annual Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta is coming up, so this month, “Still Hungry?” decided to go straight to the wineries to see what they were pairing with their favorite wines. The most difficult part of this assignment? Narrowing it down to only one recipe per winery. The other challenge I faced was that I decided to cook each of these and see if they really are as delicious as they sound. I am not a trained cook; for many years, people assumed I couldn’t cook at all. I’ve invited people over for dinner and had them cook for me, and the last time I invited a gentleman caller over for a home-cooked meal he told me he never wanted to see me again. And, I have been known to pair a dry rosé with Animal Crackers. My point is, if I can make these recipes, so can you, and boy, are they all worth the time! The wines paired here are all available in New Mexico.

MERRY EDWARDS WINERY Honey Lime Baked Wild Salmon with Mango and Black Bean Salsa paired with Merry Edwards Sauvignon Blanc

(Recipe reprinted courtesy of Cline Cellars) CR’s notes: My first try at stuffed mushrooms and I’ll be making this again. It wasn’t terribly laborintensive, as I feared it might be.

I should have cooked the filling a little longer, but I was getting impatient because I was starving. I opened a bottle of Cline Sonoma County Syrah and the combo was wonderful; there was a lovely smokiness in the wine that the mushrooms really brought out.

A great vegetarian dish. (I think it would also be good with the addition of bacon.)

Galisteo Bistro will be hosting a Cline Cellars wine dinner Friday, September 25. 505.982.3700 for reservations.

Serves 4 1 pound wild salmon 1 Tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 1 Tablespoon fresh lime juice 1 Tablespoon raw honey salt and pepper to taste Preparation: Preheat oven (or BBQ) to 400 degrees. Place salmon in a lightly greased shallow pan, just the size of the salmon. (To barbecue, place salmon in a pan lined with heavy-duty aluminum foil.)

Mix oil, lime juice and honey together in a small bowl and spoon over the salmon. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes until firm, but still moist and flaky.

Mango and Black Bean Salsa

(Recipe created by Joanne Williams, reprinted courtesy of Merry Edwards Winery)

Merry Edwards Winery Estate Sommelier Brendan Tierney says, “Merry Edwards’ 2013 Sauvignon Blanc pairs great with this salmon recipe because the ripe fruit flavors of the honey lime glaze and mangos are matched by ripe citrus and orchard fruit notes in the wine. The crisp finish of the 2013 Sauvignon Blanc helps cut through the richness of the salmon and avocado, encouraging another bite and another sip for the perfect pairing.”

CR’s notes: Salmon is my go-to fish and this recipe is delicious. I chose the baking option rather than the grill. In 20 minutes and with very little prep time, I had a wonderful piece of salmon. The Mango and Black Bean Salsa was a little more time consuming, but equally tasty and the leftover salsa went very well with grilled chicken.

1 cup diced mango 1 cup diced jicama 1 avocado, diced 1 can (15 ounces) organic black beans, rinsed and well-drained 1 jalapeño pepper, seeded & minced (optional) 3 Tablespoons fresh chopped cilantro, plus extra for garnish 2 Tablespoons minced red onions 2 Tablespoons fresh lime juice 1 teaspoon fresh minced garlic ½ teaspoon ground cumin salt and black pepper to taste Preparation: In a medium bowl, place mango, jicama, avocado, black beans, jalapeño, 3 tablespoons of the cilantro and red onions. In a small bowl, mix lime juice, salt, garlic, cumin and black pepper. Gently stir the lime dressing into the mango mixture and divide the salsa between four plates. Top each with a piece of Honey Lime Baked Wild Salmon, garnish with a bit more cilantro and serve.

Want to try these wines Santa Fe-style? The Club at Quail Run will be hosting a Merry Edwards dinner Thursday, September 24.

505.986.2200 for reservations.

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2015

55

still DUCKHORN VINEYARDS Blue Cheese, Fig and Parma Ham Flat Bread paired with Duckhorn Merlot

(Recipe created by Chef Bryant Cunningham via Duckhorn Vineyards, reprinted courtesy of Duckhorn Vineyards) CR’s notes: I used a ten-inch pizza crust and I would have stabbed someone with a fork if they had tried to take a slice away from me. If you want to serve six, either start with a larger crust or increase the recipe. I Serves 6 substituted prosciutto for the Parma ham Belinda Weber of Duckhorn Vineyards says of this and burnt my first pairing, “The combination of textures and the bunch of walnuts— juiciness of the fig harmonized with the saltiness of the Parma Ham, highlighting the condensed they don’t have to fruit in this merlot and matching the wine’s toast very long. This velvety finish. The sharpness of the blue cheese is is going into my matched with the structure and depth of the wine, repertoire. softening the young tannins.”

Try Santa Fe pairings with Duckhorn Vineyards wines at Restaurant Martín’s wine dinner, Thursday, September 24. Reservations: 505.820.0919.

4-6 ounces of your favorite pizza dough 1/2 cup cream 1/2 cup blue cheese 4-6 fresh figs 6 thin slices Parma ham 3 Tablespoons walnuts, toasted 1/2 cup arugula Preparation Preheat oven to 450 degrees and place a pizza stone in the oven. Place pizza dough on floured surface for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, scald cream, remove from heat and stir in blue cheese. Lumpy is okay. Roll out pizza dough to desired thickness.

Spread a thin layer of blue cheese mixture on the pizza dough. Cut figs in half and wrap with Parma ham. Place on pizza dough. Bake for 10-15 minutes or until pizza dough is golden and blue cheese is bubbling. Remove from oven, scatter walnuts and arugula on pizza.

GOOD FOOD & GOOD DRINKS AT GOOD PRICES ...OPEN LATE! 101 W. Alameda Inside Inn of the Governors Downtown Santa Fe 505-954-0320 • delcharro.com

56

SEPTEMBER 2015

magazine.com

october izanami LF ad 2015_Layout 1 8/23/15 2:23 PM Page 1

izanami celebrates the new cookbook

preserving the japanese way

with a special tasting menu meet author/organic farmer nancy singleton hachisu, sample hand-made ingredients

brought from japan, & taste dishes from the

book in our “chef’s choice” omakase menu.

author reading sept. 30th at 5:30 pm collected works bookstore

october 1st, 5–10 pm small omakase $39 / large omakase $59

izanami + takenotsuyu sake dinner welcome masao aisawa, owner, master brewer & organic rice farmer, for a 5-course sake pairing dinner. the rock star of sake makers will be pouring his sakes to compliment chef padberg’s special menu.

october 8th

THINK BUY STAY support

5 course dinner with sake pairings, $89 per person + tax & gratuity seatings any time 5–10 pm. reservations highly recommended.

izanami

reservations 428-6390 or tenthousandwaves.com

advertisers we’ve been celebrating and promoting local NM businesses since 1993 A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2015

57

LAURA SHEPPHERD ATELIER & STORE

Look fabulous this Fall!

photosantagto.com

with an amazing selection of new jackets, scarves & shawls

65 w. marcy street santa fe, nm 87501 505.986.1444 laurasheppherd.com •

Photos: David Marlow and Jock McDonald

Authentic French bistro fare in Santa Fe by award-winning Chef Charles Dale

451 W. Alameda St., Santa Fe, NM www.bouchebistro.com Open Tues to Sat 5:30–9:30 505-982-6297 for reservations

Food and Wine Magazine Best New Chef in America Multiple James Beard Award Nominee

58

SEPTEMBER 2015

magazine.com

Celebrating!

15 25 50

Years of Mark Kiffin’s Leadership

Years of Wine & Chile Fiesta

Years of The Compound!

LUNCH • DINNER • BAR Reservations 505.982.4353 653 Canyon Road compoundrestaurant.com

photo: Kate Russell

A Taste of Life in New Mexico

SEPTEMBER 2015

59