Travel 15 October 2013

1

Western Daily Press, Tuesday, October 15, 2013 WDP-E01-S3

Travel Go West, go East

2 TRAVEL TUESDAY OCTOBER 15 2013 WESTERN DAILY PRESS

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East meets West with visits to the USA and China East or West, whichever direction you select, we have some grand and great trips to savour in China or the United States. China has fascinated the western world for centuries, courtesy of its vast lands and almost unimaginable wealth, and today is in the middle of an astonishing transfor mation.

But that makes it no less fascinating for the traveller and our trip ensures you see just what it is which ensures this country is one of the world’s “must-see” destinations.

Travel with us to Beijing, with the spectacular Imperial Palace at its heart. Collectively called the ‘Forbidden City’, it contains a staggering 9,999 rooms. Tiananmen Square, the world’s largest plaza and final resting

Sandstone pillars in Monument Valley place of Chairman Mao, holds a staggering 600,000 people.

The immense Summer Palace and Temple of Heaven are stunning in their simplicity and laden with symbolism. Beyond the city lies the 4,000mile Great Wall, the largest structure ever built by man.

Travel to Xian, already a worldclass city before even the Roman Empire was founded. It houses the extraordinary 6,000-strong Terracotta Army. First discovered in 1974 by farmers digging a well, the life-size and remarkably preserved warriors

all have their own individual features. They’ve guarded the tomb of the first Qin Emperor for more than two millennia.

Guilin has some of China’s most breathtaking scenery. Beautifully set around four lakes and two rivers, it’s surrounded by stunning views.

And in Chengdu, you’ll see some of the world’s most endangered and enchanting animals – pandas.

Add a relaxing three-day cruise on the Yangtze and a trip to Shanghai, China’s wealthiest city, and you will have enjoyed a remarkable journey of discovery of one of the world’s most ancient cultures.

Fly West with us and we will whisk you off to California and the Golden West from London Heathrow.

Visit the sophisticated metropolis of San Francisco and the iconic Grand Canyon. See Monument Valley, whose towering sandstone pillars are immortalised in countless Westerns; the Painted Desert; Yosemite; the astonishing national parks of Bryce Canyon and Zion; and the lofty snow-capped peaks of the Sierra Nevada. Put world renowned destination cities such as San Francisco, Los Angeles, San Diego and Las Vegas into the mix and you have a destination that simply cannot be matched.

And if it’s inspiration you’re seeking then India’s Exotic South and Kerala will do the trick.

Journey to India’s far south, to explore the extraordinary corner of the world its inhabitants call ‘God’s Own Country’. It’s an idyllic, tropical land of ancient trading ports, labyrinthine backwaters and traditional ‘houseboats‘, forested uplands dotted with churches, temples and tea and spice plantations, plus some of the country’s finest beaches.

There’s even the chance to overnight in a traditional, thatchroofed ‘Kettuvallam’ houseboat on a full-board basis

The Temple of Heaven in the ‘Forbidden City’ is one of many fascinating places to explore on our trip to China

Grand and Great RHINE & MOSELLE CRUISE

8 days from

£1199 per person

Departures May to September 2014

6 days from

£769 per person

Departures May to October 2014

There are many vessels cruising European rivers but few ships can match the luxury and elegance of the four-star superior Serenade 2, the five-star Lord Byron, Swiss Tiara or William Shakespeare. Boasting superb cuisine and the most comfortable surroundings possible. On offer are these fascinating cruises visiting some of the most wonderful sights throughout Europe.

Many people think they know Germany but on a closer examination are delightfully surprised by its iconic historic cities, expansive rolling countryside, fairytale castles and magnificent buildings, delightful and perfectly preserved medieval villages plus the warmth and vivacity of its people. On this tour we explore one of its most fascinating regions and one which displays these qualities in abundance.

Return scheduled flights from London Heathrow or Birmingham, other airports also available

*Standard class reserved seat on Eurostar from London St. Pancras or flight from a choice of regional airports (at a supplement)

Call us on 0844 472 4605

HEIDELBERG, MAIN VALLEY AND THE ROMANTIC ROAD

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BRI

Or visit us www.bririviera.co.uk

Request a brochure online: www.rivieratravel.co.uk/brochures

Calls cost 5ppm from a BT landline. You may also be charged a connection fee. Mobile and other providers’ charges may vary. Prices are from, per person, based on two people sharing a twin room./cabin unless stated otherwise, and are applicable to selected departure dates. These holidays and included excursions are subject to availability. Single rooms/cabins available at a supplement. Some visa costs and local departure taxes may not be included. Prices and holidays are subject to availability and change, some holidays are subject to minimum passenger numbers. Images used in conjunction with Riviera Travel. *Supplements applicable for certain regional stations. Holidays organised by and are subject to the booking conditions of Riviera Travel, New Manor, 328 Wetmore Road, Burton upon Trent, Staffs DE14 1SP ABTA V4744 and ATOL 3430 protected, a company wholly independent of Local World. When you respond, the holiday supplier and Local World may contact you with offers/services that may be of interest. Please give your mobile or email details if you wish to receive such offers by SMS or email. We will not give your details to other companies without your permission.

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WESTERN DAILY PRESS TUESDAY OCTOBER 15 2013 TRAVEL 3

An ice sculpture at the Hyde Park Winter Wonderland, and the picturesque harbours at St Ives, left, and Padstow

Enjoy the magical atmosphere of a winter wonderland Home is where the heart is and we have a hat-trick of specially selected British-based breaks this week.

Head for London for the first one – the glittering Hyde Park Winter Wonderland.

Located in one of the greatest city parks in the world, it is transformed into the city’s most spectacular Christmas destination – complete with fairground rides, a world-class circus, a Christmas Market, the UK’s largest outdoor ice rink and an exclusive snow and ice exhibition.

There is so much to enjoy even if you just walk around the park to enjoy the magical atmosphere.

We also visit London where you can enjoy some sightseeing or take advantage of your time in one of the

shopping capitals of the world and start ticking off the Christmas list.

If nostalgia’s your thing, then join our trip for a Haworth 1940s weekend.

Step back in time to experience Britain in the 1940s.

Your holiday begins with coach travel to York. Next day you travel to Haworth where, for more than 10 years, locals and visitors have dressed up in 1940s clothing to enjoy a wide range of nostalgic events in this Yorkshire village, sited on the edge of the Pennine moors.

You could well be forgiven for believing you’ve stepped onto the set of Dad’s Army. Military and civilian vehicles will be driving around, sandbags will be scattered about and the

streets will be thronged with forces personnel, tradesmen, civilians and members of the Home Guard.

Don’t be surprised if the drone of an engine belonging to a Spitfire or Lancaster draws your attention to the skies; the RAF have previously carried out a flypast at this annual event.

Or why not stay closer to home and head west down the M5 for our Cornish Tea, St Ives, Padstow & Falmouth four-day break.

The small fishing town of Padstow retains much of its old-world charm and tradition and is a great place to explore, whether you want to browse the narrow streets or walk out to the headland for magnificent views.

Our stay also takes in Falmouth and Lizard Point. Located at the entrance to the third largest harbour in the world, this attractive town has many attractions.

As well as streets full of shops, galleries, restaurants and pubs, the water is never far away and boats of every size can be seen along the waterfront.

St Ives and Penzance are also on the tour agenda, the former being, arguably the most popular Cornish resort, with its golden sand, clear ocean and variety of attractions.

Its wonderful pure light has attracted artists since the 19th century and there are many well-known names associated with the town.

Home Grown Holidays 4 days from

£225 per person

WALKING FOR SOFTIES IN NORTH DEVON

Departing 28 March & 11 July 2014 from Bristol

£95 per person

WINCHESTER & SALISBURY CHRISTMAS MARKETS

Departing 14 December 2013 from Bristol

Enjoy two full day walks in the company of our professional guides as we follow sections of the Tarka Trail, a beautiful area made famous by Henry Williamson’s poetic novel ‘Tarka The Otter’.

Enjoy the magical atmosphere of these medieval cities when they are alive with festivities! This is a wonderful opportunity to shop in beautiful surroundings and really get into the Christmas spirit!

Price includes:

Price includes:

• Private coach travel from your local area • Three nights’ stay with three course evening meal & cooked breakfast • Two fully guided walks in North Devon • Visit to Barnstaple

Call us on 0844 472 4545

2 days from

Quote BS

• Private coach travel from your local area • One night stay with three course evening meal & cooked breakfast • Visits to Winchester & Salisbury Christmas Markets

Or visit us www.bristolep.diamondhols.co.uk

Calls cost 5ppm from a BT landline. You may also be charged a connection fee. Mobile and other providers’ charges may vary. Prices are from, per person, based on two people sharing, are applicable to selected departure dates and may have been rounded up or down to the nearest pound. Any applicable discounts have already been deducted. These holidays and included excursions are subject to availability. Single rooms and regional departures are also subject to availability and a supplement may apply. Prices and holidays are subject to availability and change, some holidays are subject to minimum passenger numbers. Terms and conditions apply. Holidays are operated by various suppliers which are ABTA and/or ATOL bonded where applicable. These suppliers are independent of Local World. When you respond, the holiday supplier and Local World may contact you with offers/services that may be of interest. Please give your mobile or email details if you wish to receive such offers by SMS or email. We will not give your details to other companies without your permission.

4 TRAVEL TUESDAY OCTOBER 15 2013 WESTERN DAILY PRESS

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I for Inspiration 11 days now from

£1574

INDIA’S BEAUTIFUL SOUTH Departing January, March, May, October and Novmber 2014 Journey to India’s far southwest, to discover and explore an extraordinary corner of the world, called - with some justification ‘God’s Own Country’ by its inhabitants, and an idyllic, tropical land of ancient trading ports, labyrinthine backwaters plied by traditional ‘houseboats’, forested uplands dotted with churches, temples and tea and spice plantations.

Our exceptional value holiday begins in old Kochi - formerly Cochin - set between the Arabian Sea and the languid Keralan backwaters.

Here you’ll enjoy a tour of the historic, distinctly European quarters of the city, see first hand the famous Chinese fishing nets that are one of Southern India’s most iconic images, and have the chance to experience a traditional Kathakali dance performance.

Moving inland, you’ll then enjoy a night on a traditional thatched kettuvallam houseboat – another unique experience – before you head into the misty mountains and the protected Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary, home to elephants and rarely glimpsed tigers and leopards.

Visits to the sacred city of Madurai, with its astounding temples and Hindu ceremonials, and to the idyllic, verdant tea-growing hill station of Munnar are full of memorable highlights, before this wonderful tour of one of India’s most enthralling corners is completed with a final night in back in colonial Cochin.

Price includes:

CLASSIC ITALY

IRELAND’S BEAUTIFUL SOUTH WEST

THE ISLE OF MAN

Departing May to October 2014

Departing April to July, September and October 2014

Departing 18 April 2014

per person

Save

£50 per couple

*

t Book by 31 Oc

For further information visit: www.newmarket.travel/wdp16704

2013

Save

£50

8 days now from

£744 per person

* per couple

Book

• Return scheduled flights from Manchester and London Heathrow, via Dubai, to Kochi • Air-conditioned coach travel throughout • Eight nights’ half-board accommodation in good standard hotels • One night’s full-board accommodation on a traditional thatch-roof ‘Kettuvallam’ houseboat • A traditional Kathakali dance performance • Guided tours of Kochi and Madurai • Lunch in a traditional rubber plantation • Lunch in Periyar • Guided walk through Periyar spice plantation • Visit to a working tea plantation and the Tata Tea Museum, Munnar • Services of a friendly, professional tour manager

£50

£504

£329

per person

per person

*

Book

This wonderful, week-long touring holiday combines a three-night stay overlooking the glorious Bay of Naples with four nights in the Tuscan Hills. Included guided tours to some of Italy’s greatest sights and renowned cities, including Vesuvius, ancient Pompeii, The Amalfi Drive, Florence, Orvieto and Rome, all make for a memorable holiday.

• Return flights to Italy direct from Bristol • Three nights’ dinner, bed and breakfast at the three-star Hotel Villa Serena in Castellammare di Stabia • Four nights’ dinner, bed and breakfast at the three-star Hotel Santa Chiara in Chianciano Terme • Visits to Pompeii and a journey along the Amalfi Coast • Tour to Montecassino • A trip to Assisi • Visit to Florence • A day in Rome • Return airport to hotel transfers • One suitcase allowance per person • The services of a tour manager in resort

Call us on 0844 472 4655 Quote WDP Or visit us www.newmarket.travel/wdp

Save

4 days from

per couple

by 31 Oct 2013

Price includes:

6 days now from

by 31 Oct 2013

This tour, based in an excellent four star, includes a host of highlights, all set against the lakes, mountains and stunning coastline of this breathtakingly beautiful corner of Ireland.

Enjoy the spectacular scenery of the Killarney National Park in a jaunting car and by boat, tour the fabled ‘Ring of Kerry’ and stunning ‘Dingle Peninsular’, and gain a fascinating insight into rural Irish life with a visit to Bunratty Castle and Folk Park.

Price includes:

• Return flights to Cork from Bristol • Five nights’ dinner, bed and Irish breakfast accommodation at the four star Meadowlands Hotel, Tralee • A jaunting car trip and cruise on Loch Leane • A tour of the Dingle Peninsular and entrance to the Blasket Island Heritage Centre • A visit to Adare • A visit to Bunratty Castle and Folk Park (entrance payable locally) • A tour of the Ring of Kerry • Coach travel throughout your time in Ireland • One suitcase allowance per person • The services of a tour manager

Alternatively, for your free brochure, tick brochure(s) required, complete the coupon and send to: Newmarket Holidays, FREEPOST KT2720, Worcester Park, KT4 8BR (NO STAMP REQUIRED)

India’s Beautiful South – INK Classic Italy – ICK Ireland’s Beautiful South West – FJC The Isle of Man – IMA

Here’s your chance to visit this magical, unspoilt part of Britain with its crystal clear air, breathtaking scenery, stunning beaches and a pace of life that’s unique. Enjoy a full sightseeing programme in the company of a local guide who knows and loves the Island and have a break to remember.

Price includes:

• Return coach travel and ferry crossings • Three nights’ dinner, bed and English breakfast accommodation in one of the three star Sleepwell Hotels in Douglas • Entertainment on one evening • Two round the island tours (one full-day, one half-day) accompanied by a local guide • Entrances to Cregneash Folk Village, Grove House and the Laxey Wheel

Name ..................................................................

WDP

Address .......................................................................... .......................................................................................

Telephone.......................................................................

Email ..............................................................................

Calls cost 5ppm from a BT landline. You may also be charged a connection fee. Mobile and other providers’ charges may vary. Operated by Newmarket Promotions/Air Holidays Ltd. ABTA V787X/V7812, ATOL protected 2325. Prices are per person, based on two sharing. Subject to availability. Single supplements apply. Terms and conditions apply. These suppliers are independent of Local World. When you respond, the holiday supplier and Local World may contact you with offers/services that may be of interest. Please give your mobile or email details if you wish to receive such offers by SMS or email. We will not give your details to other companies without your permission. *Book by 31 Oct 2013 for a £25pp discount on 2014 Air holidays. Quote promotional code 7P9TX5. Offer subject to availability & may be withdrawn at any time. Prices shown include savings.

4 TRAVEL TUESDAY OCTOBER 15 2013 WESTERN DAILY PRESS

WDP-E01-S3

I for Inspiration 11 days now from

£1574

INDIA’S BEAUTIFUL SOUTH Departing January, March, May, October and Novmber 2014 Journey to India’s far southwest, to discover and explore an extraordinary corner of the world, called - with some justification ‘God’s Own Country’ by its inhabitants, and an idyllic, tropical land of ancient trading ports, labyrinthine backwaters plied by traditional ‘houseboats’, forested uplands dotted with churches, temples and tea and spice plantations.

Our exceptional value holiday begins in old Kochi - formerly Cochin - set between the Arabian Sea and the languid Keralan backwaters.

Here you’ll enjoy a tour of the historic, distinctly European quarters of the city, see first hand the famous Chinese fishing nets that are one of Southern India’s most iconic images, and have the chance to experience a traditional Kathakali dance performance.

Moving inland, you’ll then enjoy a night on a traditional thatched kettuvallam houseboat – another unique experience – before you head into the misty mountains and the protected Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary, home to elephants and rarely glimpsed tigers and leopards.

Visits to the sacred city of Madurai, with its astounding temples and Hindu ceremonials, and to the idyllic, verdant tea-growing hill station of Munnar are full of memorable highlights, before this wonderful tour of one of India’s most enthralling corners is completed with a final night in back in colonial Cochin.

Price includes:

CLASSIC ITALY

IRELAND’S BEAUTIFUL SOUTH WEST

THE ISLE OF MAN

Departing May to October 2014

Departing April to July, September and October 2014

Departing 18 April 2014

per person

Save

£50 per couple

*

t Book by 31 Oc

For further information visit: www.newmarket.travel/wdp16704

2013

Save

£50

8 days now from

£744 per person

* per couple

Book

• Return scheduled flights from Manchester and London Heathrow, via Dubai, to Kochi • Air-conditioned coach travel throughout • Eight nights’ half-board accommodation in good standard hotels • One night’s full-board accommodation on a traditional thatch-roof ‘Kettuvallam’ houseboat • A traditional Kathakali dance performance • Guided tours of Kochi and Madurai • Lunch in a traditional rubber plantation • Lunch in Periyar • Guided walk through Periyar spice plantation • Visit to a working tea plantation and the Tata Tea Museum, Munnar • Services of a friendly, professional tour manager

£50

£504

£329

per person

per person

*

Book

This wonderful, week-long touring holiday combines a three-night stay overlooking the glorious Bay of Naples with four nights in the Tuscan Hills. Included guided tours to some of Italy’s greatest sights and renowned cities, including Vesuvius, ancient Pompeii, The Amalfi Drive, Florence, Orvieto and Rome, all make for a memorable holiday.

• Return flights to Italy direct from Bristol • Three nights’ dinner, bed and breakfast at the three-star Hotel Villa Serena in Castellammare di Stabia • Four nights’ dinner, bed and breakfast at the three-star Hotel Santa Chiara in Chianciano Terme • Visits to Pompeii and a journey along the Amalfi Coast • Tour to Montecassino • A trip to Assisi • Visit to Florence • A day in Rome • Return airport to hotel transfers • One suitcase allowance per person • The services of a tour manager in resort

Call us on 0844 472 4655 Quote WDP Or visit us www.newmarket.travel/wdp

Save

4 days from

per couple

by 31 Oct 2013

Price includes:

6 days now from

by 31 Oct 2013

This tour, based in an excellent four star, includes a host of highlights, all set against the lakes, mountains and stunning coastline of this breathtakingly beautiful corner of Ireland.

Enjoy the spectacular scenery of the Killarney National Park in a jaunting car and by boat, tour the fabled ‘Ring of Kerry’ and stunning ‘Dingle Peninsular’, and gain a fascinating insight into rural Irish life with a visit to Bunratty Castle and Folk Park.

Price includes:

• Return flights to Cork from Bristol • Five nights’ dinner, bed and Irish breakfast accommodation at the four star Meadowlands Hotel, Tralee • A jaunting car trip and cruise on Loch Leane • A tour of the Dingle Peninsular and entrance to the Blasket Island Heritage Centre • A visit to Adare • A visit to Bunratty Castle and Folk Park (entrance payable locally) • A tour of the Ring of Kerry • Coach travel throughout your time in Ireland • One suitcase allowance per person • The services of a tour manager

Alternatively, for your free brochure, tick brochure(s) required, complete the coupon and send to: Newmarket Holidays, FREEPOST KT2720, Worcester Park, KT4 8BR (NO STAMP REQUIRED)

India’s Beautiful South – INK Classic Italy – ICK Ireland’s Beautiful South West – FJC The Isle of Man – IMA

Here’s your chance to visit this magical, unspoilt part of Britain with its crystal clear air, breathtaking scenery, stunning beaches and a pace of life that’s unique. Enjoy a full sightseeing programme in the company of a local guide who knows and loves the Island and have a break to remember.

Price includes:

• Return coach travel and ferry crossings • Three nights’ dinner, bed and English breakfast accommodation in one of the three star Sleepwell Hotels in Douglas • Entertainment on one evening • Two round the island tours (one full-day, one half-day) accompanied by a local guide • Entrances to Cregneash Folk Village, Grove House and the Laxey Wheel

Name ..................................................................

WDP

Address .......................................................................... .......................................................................................

Telephone.......................................................................

Email ..............................................................................

Calls cost 5ppm from a BT landline. You may also be charged a connection fee. Mobile and other providers’ charges may vary. Operated by Newmarket Promotions/Air Holidays Ltd. ABTA V787X/V7812, ATOL protected 2325. Prices are per person, based on two sharing. Subject to availability. Single supplements apply. Terms and conditions apply. These suppliers are independent of Local World. When you respond, the holiday supplier and Local World may contact you with offers/services that may be of interest. Please give your mobile or email details if you wish to receive such offers by SMS or email. We will not give your details to other companies without your permission. *Book by 31 Oct 2013 for a £25pp discount on 2014 Air holidays. Quote promotional code 7P9TX5. Offer subject to availability & may be withdrawn at any time. Prices shown include savings.

WDP-E01-S3

WESTERN DAILY PRESS TUESDAY OCTOBER 15 2013 TRAVEL 5

There’s a lot to like about the town of Lulea Once home to traditional reindeer herders, the northern Swedish town of Lulea is now the nerve centre for social networking site Facebook, making it one of the most connected destinations in the world. Sarah Marshall discovers why this winter wonderland is deserving of so many ‘likes’ It doesn’t take much persuasion for Lars Erikkson to burst into song.

Lowering his chin, until it almost reaches the curled-up tips of his reindeer-skin boots, he bellows out a gruff melody with full gusto.

The closest neighbours in the village of Flakaberg may be 17km away, but he’s making a good attempt to reach them.

Given that it wasn’t until the Sixties that Sweden’s indigenous Sami people were even allowed to speak their own language, let alone sing traditional songs, it’s not surprising he’s relishing the opportunity to share his culture.

I, his audience of one, am huddled next to a coal-burning heater, surrounded by an eclectic display of porcelain dolls, miniature tea sets, and

Husky dogs can run up to 90km in a day

6km Distance that Sweden’s indigenous Sami people are said to be able to shout garlands of dry flowers draped over a Welsh dresser.

“Sami people had loud voices before they had mobile phones,” he says from beneath a thick, wiry beard. “They could shout for five to six kilometres.”

Lars makes no attempt to hide the fact he dislikes technology and the inevitable change that comes with it.

He nostalgically recalls a time when he would spend up to three weeks alone in the forest herding reindeer, carrying with him only a knife and a needle and thread to repair any damage to his traditional Sami costume.

“I used to make a living from 200 reindeer, but now I need a thousand,” he laments. “My herd would roam two mountains, but now they’re spread across three.”

Lars has been looking after reindeer for 50 years, working and

living on a simple estate owned by his family since the mid-19th century.

But to keep up with demanding times he’s had to abandon a traditional way of life and switch to using a snowmobile to round up his animals.

“I preferred it the old way,” he frowns.

In reality, Swedish Lapland has been embracing innovation for some time. Earlier this year, when Facebook set up a 27,000sqm server farm in the region’s largest town, Lulea, the irony was noted the world over: a relatively remote coastal destination, 60km south of the Arctic Circle, would become one of the world’s most important communication hubs.

Cool temperatures, which prevent computers from overheating, and a cheap hydroelectricity supply are now incentivising other software companies to move into the area.

Although there are currently no direct flights from the UK, Lulea has been touted as an up-and-coming destination for some time. And while Lars doesn’t have any plans to set up a Facebook page just yet, he too is happy to welcome tourists into his home.

The most obvious attraction in Lulea is the Unesco World Heritage Site of Gammelstad, where 400 wooden houses surround a 15th century stone church. But it’s the natural surroundings that really impress me when I first arrive.

The Baltic Sea, which normally laps the town harbour, has frozen, creating an icy parkland on which locals can ski, skate and enjoy a leisurely stroll. A wide snow road has been carved through the middle, carrying cars and trucks with loads of up to four tonnes.

Inspired by Lars, I prefer to take a more natural mode of transport: a dog sled. Caisa Ohlsson keeps 60 Alaskan huskies at her Svedjekojan husky farm, just outside the town, near the village Tranutrask.

Harnessed to a sled, the dogs are barking wildly; like eight loaded springs, they’re almost ready to explode. I make myself comfortable on a cushion of reindeer skin, while Caisa prepares to steer from the back.

Once they start to run, the dogs fall silent, their wailing replaced by a steady panting and the rhythmic sound of nimble paws digging furrows in the snow.

As we turn a corner, grinding over ice, the low-hanging winter sun dazzles like a torch light, beaming through the toothpick trunks of birch and fir trees, and making the snow shimmer as if laced with diamonds.

The dogs can run up to 90km in a day, but I suspect that unless someone stopped them they’d probably just keep going.

Back in a warm wooden teepee, where homemade lingonberry cake is served, Caisa says I should come back to try one of her moonlight dog rides.

“With a bit of luck you might see the Northern Lights,” she says.

Fortune is obviously shining on me that night when I head out on a snowmobile ride to the Brandon peninsula. As I zoom across the frozen

sea, the light show has already started.

While my local guide Roger builds a bonfire, I strap tennis racket-like snowshoes to my feet and walk out to what would normally be open water, to watch the display. I imagine Gustav Holst’s Mars, from the Planets Suite, being played by a symphony orchestra, as the beams of green light begin to crescendo.

I sit down to a barbecue of smoky reindeer meat and potatoes, on a sofa carved from ice and draped with animal skin.

In the summer, this would be a beach, Roger tells me, where the water can reach 21C. He inhales deeply, sniffing the night air. “Right now, it’s almost minus 10.”

But the landscape of wild beauty is enough to distract me from the cold.

Nature’s architecture may take some beating, but Kent Lindvall, owner of the Treehotel in Harads (an hour from Lulea), is doing his best to compete.

Inspired by Swedish short film The Tree Lover, the boutique hotel has attracted attention from some of the world’s top architects, who are queuing up to offer their services for free. At present, there are six ecofriendly tree pods, all built without placing any stress on surrounding trees, although Kent is considering plans for more.

My room for the night is the Blue Cone, which – in keeping with the oblique Swedish sense of humour I’m beginning to grow fond of – is painted red.

The next morning, I awake to a view of snow-capped trees, resembling the silver whiskers on an old man’s beard. As I walk towards the main building, a former Thirties old people’s home now run as a retrothemed pensionat by Kent’s wife Britta, only the sound of my feet trudging through thick, fresh snow breaks the silence.

I meet a couple who have checked in for six nights. Their aim is to sleep in every tree room – from the gleaming Mirrorcube, to the branchcovered Bird’s Nest, and a grand finale spent in the UFO, a flying saucer filled with games consoles and duvets decorated with constellations.

I have an other-worldly experience of my own in store when I take a hovercraft ride across the Baltic Sea, exploring Lulea’s archipelago of 1,312 islands. Riding on a cushion of air, we glide over ice so smooth I imagine someone has levelled it with a large palette knife. In the distance, a lighthouse appears stranded in the deep freeze – the only reminder we’re theoretically still at sea.

When we reach the pack ice, where floating blocks have piled up to create mountains of frozen rubble, it’s as if we’ve travelled to the moon. I climb to the top of one mound and through the hazy winter mist I can just about see open water on the horizon.

Mobile phones do work here, but I decide to switch mine off. In a place with so many communication links, I realise it’s still surprisingly easy to disconnect.

TRAVEL FACTS

Snow shoeing over frozen Baltic Sea in Lulea, Sweden, with the Northern Lights in the background, main picture; Lars Erikkson’s closest neighbours in the village of Flakaberg are 17km away; the Mirrorcube room at the Treehotel in Harads

Sarah Marshall was a guest of Taber Holidays (01274 875 199; www.taberhols.co.uk) who offer the four-night Lulea and the Treehotel package from £1,186pp (based on two sharing). Price includes flights, transfers, accommodation at the Elite Stadshotellet in Lulea and a night at the Treehotel, with breakfast. Daily departures from January 6 to April 7, 2014.

Optional activities include Northern Lights Snowshoe tour (from £153pp), hovercraft tour (from £237pp) and dog sledding (from £260pp).

6 TRAVEL TUESDAY OCTOBER 15 2013 WESTERN DAILY PRESS

WDP-E01-S3

Grand and Great 17 days from

GRAND TOUR OF CHINA £2399 Selected departures March to October 2014 per person

This tour is a remarkable journey of discovery of one of the world’s most ancient cultures, aspects of which are almost beyond our comprehension, blended with a remarkably stunning topography and a staggering pace of modernisation.

Price includes: • A comprehensive tour of China visiting its greatest cultural legacies, iconic monuments, astounding palaces and astonishing scenery • Staying in hand-picked four-star hotels • Return scheduled flights from London Heathrow • Enjoy our five-star Yangtze River Cruise through the breathtaking Three Gorges, including full-board • Travel through the world’s largest ship locks of the Three Gorges Dam • Visit the amazing Forbidden City, the seat of Imperial power for 500 years and the world’s largest concentration of preserved ancient wooden buildings • Marvel at the exquisite symmetry of the Temple of Heaven and the imperial gardens at the Summer Palace in Beijing • Tour old Beijing’s historic quarters by cycle rickshaw • Visit the astonishing Great Wall of China, the only man-made monument visible from space • See the world-famous Terracotta Warriors and the less well known underground museum • Watch baby pandas at play at the Chengdu Panda Research Centre • Enjoy the bright lights and shopping of Shanghai • See the man-made wonder of the Longshen Rice Terraces • Cruise the world-famous Li River surrounded by thousands of limestone peaks • Option to visit one of China’s unspoilt water villages in the Yangtze River delta • Daily breakfast and thirteen meals included plus a Peking Duck banquet • Escorted by an experienced tour manager

CALIFORNIA & THE GOLDEN WEST

Selected departures March to November 2014

15 days from

£1599 per person

An outstanding tour exploring Western USA’s world-famous National Parks, intriguing native Indian history, amazing desert landscapes, lush forests, the lofty peaks of the Sierra Nevada and including its pulsating and unique cities.

Price includes: • Return direct scheduled flights from London Heathrow • Stay in hand-picked three and four-star hotels • Stay three nights in cosmopolitan San Francisco, America’s favourite city, dominated by the instantly recognisable Golden Gate Bridge • Guided tours of Los Angeles, San Diego and San Francisco • Visit and stay in glitzy Las Vegas – the ‘Entertainment Capital of the World’ • Experience the stunning beauty of the Grand Canyon, Bryce Canyon, Zion National Park and Yosemite National Park. Our overnight stays and visits are carefully timed to see these awe-inspiring sights when the light displays them at their most beautiful • Visit timeless Monument Valley, immortalised in so many classic ‘westerns’ • Enjoy a superb optional helicopter flight over the Grand Canyon • Escorted by an experienced tour manager

Call us on 0844 472 4605

Quote

BRI

Or visit us www.bririviera.co.uk

Request a brochure online: www.rivieratravel.co.uk/brochures

Calls cost 5ppm from a BT landline. You may also be charged a connection fee. Mobile and other providers’ charges may vary. Prices are from, per person, based on two people sharing a twin room unless stated otherwise, and are applicable to selected departure dates. These holidays and included excursions are subject to availability. Single rooms available at a supplement. Some visa costs and local departure taxes may not be included. Prices and holidays are subject to availability and change, some holidays are subject to minimum passenger numbers. Images used in conjunction with Riviera Travel. Holidays organised by and are subject to the booking conditions of Riviera Travel, New Manor, 328 Wetmore Road, Burton upon Trent, Staffs DE14 1SP. ABTA V4744 and ATOL 3430 protected, a company wholly independent of Local World. When you respond, the holiday supplier and Local World may contact you with offers/services that may be of interest. Please give your mobile or email details if you wish to receive such offers by SMS or email. We will not give your details to other companies without your permission.

WESTERN DAILY PRESS TUESDAY OCTOBER 15 2013 TRAVEL 7

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Go Holidaying in...

5 days from

£749 per person

GREAT LITTLE TRAINS OF THE HARZ MOUNTAINS Departing 12 May, 2 June, 22 September & 20 October 2014 Rail travel from your local area for just £39pp The Harz Mountain range is a secret landscape of pretty villages, romantic towns and graceful castles, surrounded by outstanding natural scenery. Enjoy the views from the windows of little trains, as we travel along narrow gauge railways and experience the formidable power of steam.

The price includes: • Return Eurostar from London St Pancras International to Brussels • Return high speed rail journeys from Brussels to Hanover • Return coach transfers to hotel • Four nights’ half board accommodation in the Harz Mountains • Use of hotel leisure facilities • Visit to Goslar and Quedlinburg • Journey on the Brocken Steam Railway to the peak of the Harz Mountains • Journey on the Selketal Steam Railway

HAWORTH 1940S WEEKEND

HYDE PARK WINTER WONDERLAND

Departing 17 May 2014 Coach travel from Bristol 2 days from

Departing 30 November 2013 Coach travel from Bristol 2 days from

£90

£90

per person

per person

Step back in time to experience Britain in the 1940s. In the Yorkshire village of Haworth we will be on the Home Front where air-raid sirens herald the throb of hostile enemy aircraft and the rationing of food, clothing and provisions is an accepted part of everyday living. Wartime memories don’t always centre on hardship and personal loss and as; the British spirit was renowned for its strength in the face of adversity, don’t be surprised to witness scenes of laughter, singing and dancing to those old wartime favourite tunes.

Hyde Park, in the heart of London, is one of the greatest city parks in the world and in the run up to Christmas it draws even more visitors with its Winter Wonderland event – the city’s most spectacular Christmas destination.

Complete with fairground rides, a world-class circus, a Christmas Market, the UK’s largest outdoor ice rink and an exclusive snow and ice exhibition, there is so much to enjoy making this a festive favourite for all the family!

The price includes:

• • • •

• Private coach travel from your local area • One-nights’ stay with three course evening meal & cooked breakfast • Visits to York and Haworth

HIGHLIGHTS OF PARIS BY EUROSTAR

The price includes:

Private coach travel from your local area One nights’ stay with three course evening meal and cooked breakfast Visit to London’s Hyde Park Winter Wonderland Free time in London

CORNISH TEA, ST IVES, PADSTOW & FALMOUTH

Departing 14 March 2014 from Bristol

Departing 25 April 2014 Coach travel from Bristol 4 days from

4 days from

£289

£269

per person

Join our escorted tour by rail to one of the most fascinating and romantic cities in Europe known as the ‘City of Light’.

The price includes:

• • • • • • • •

Return rail travel from your chosen station to London St Pancras International Return Eurostar from London St Pancras International to Paris Coach transfers Three nights’ bed and breakfast in the Ibis Hotel La Defence Centre Coach sightseeing tour of the main sights of Paris Excursion to Versailles Excursion to Montmartre area of Paris Services of a Tour Manager from London St Pancras International

Call us on

0844 472 4545

Quote

BS

per person

Cornwall is the ideal holiday destination, renowned for its spectacular coastal scenery, delicious local food and award-winning attractions. It is also a place of fascinating myths and legends, which are deeply woven into the Cornish history. Join us as we uncover some of these highlights and visit places featured on the ITV series ‘Cornwall with Caroline Quentin’.

The price includes: • • • •

Private coach travel from your local area Three night stay with three course evening meals and cooked breakfasts Visits to Padstow, Falmouth, Lizard Point, St Ives and Penzance Garden Tour and View Tea Plantation at Tregothnan Estate

For more information on Great Little Trains or Highlights of Paris visit

For all other holidays visit

www.diamondrailholidays.co.uk

www.bristolep.diamondhols.co.uk

Calls cost 5ppm from a BT landline. You may also be charged a connection fee. Mobile and other providers’ charges may vary. Prices are from, per person, based on two people sharing, are applicable to selected departure dates and may have been rounded up or down to the nearest pound. Any applicable discounts have already been deducted. These holidays and included excursions are subject to availability. Single rooms and regional departures are also subject to availability and a supplement may apply. Prices and holidays are subject to availability and change, some holidays are subject to minimum passenger numbers. Terms and conditions apply.

Holidays are operated by various suppliers which are ABTA and/or ATOL bonded where applicable. These suppliers are independent of Local World. When you respond, the holiday supplier and Local World may contact you with offers/services that may be of interest. Please give your mobile or email details if you wish to receive such offers by SMS or email. We will not give your details to other companies without your permission.

8 TRAVEL TUESDAY OCTOBER 15 2013 WESTERN DAILY PRESS

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Boats at Le Guilvinec where, every evening, crowds of all ages gather along the quayside or climb aloft to the specially constructed viewing platform to watch the trawlers return to port

Caught up in the excitement of trawlers’ return Tim Davey travels to the glorious west coast of Brittany and discovers something very fishy going on As tourist rituals go this was a curious one. Every evening, around teatime, crowds of all ages would gather along the quayside, or for a seagull’s eye view, climb aloft to the specially constructed viewing platform.

These many hundreds of pairs of eyes would then all look out to sea and, soon, a cry would go up to signal the start of what is a daily phenomenon. For there, homing in from the Bay of Biscay or further outreaches of the Atlantic, would be a trawler.

And another. And another.

The boats, their holds laden with vast quantities of everything from langoustine to crabs to cod, were coming back to their home port, Le Guilvinec on the west coast of Brittany. It’s down the road a bit from the major naval city of Brest, but you do

have to look for this place on the map.

Which is odd, really, as it is one of the major fishing ports of France.

Anything which swims in the ocean waters is fair game for being scoured by this town’s massive trawler fleet and the entire community seems to enjoy gainful employment off the back of it.

Add to that the fact that the trawlers’ early evening arrivals have become a major tourist draw. Their nightly sailing home really is something to see and gets more intriguing as each one instantly begins unloading its haul on the quayside.

Such is its reputation that there’s even a museum about the fishing industry here. Name of what it has in it.

My wife and I first stumbled upon it by chance many years ago when taking an hotel break booked through Brittany Ferries.

We loved the feel of the place and never forgot it. So, this year, seeking

Tim Davey stayed in the Cap Ouest B&B, top, in Le Guilvinec. He also visited nearby Benodet, centre

somewhere to stay awhile in the vast coastal area that is Brittany, we headed again to Le Guilvinec.

It didn’t disappoint, either, during our near week-long stay. And if you go you’ll quickly see why. Because on either side of this exceedingly busy fishing port lie vast sandy beaches which seem to stretch endlessly into the horizon.

The sand is golden, the sort that dazzles with those glinting silvery bits in, and the water is as clear as it gets.

You can forget about crowds, too.

Because even in August when we went you be very hard pushed not to stake out a vast chunk of sand for yourself, towels, umbrella and so forth.

Better still, car parks are abundant – and free – and lie just behind the dunes. There are copious cycle paths, too, and even a vast (but tasteful) pedestrian-only wooden boardwalk which runs for a few miles along the top of the beach.

Because Le Guilvinec is a proper working town it produces a refreshing mix of bars and restaurants aimed just as much at the locals as those coming to stay.

Most bars do meals, and that Breton favourite, the crêpe. Most of the restaurant will have crêpes on the menu somewhere, too.

But you would be a fool to pass up on any of the seafood offered here.

On various nights out we tried seafood tapas, assiettes of fruits de mer (oysters, whelks, clams, mussels, giant shrimps, langoustine all topped off with half a huge crab for 15 euros), fresh monkfish and cod.

All bought dockside not too long before.

The hotel we had stayed in all those

years before had, sadly, long gone, but its loss was our gain in a way as we discovered Cap Ouest, a wonderful bed and breakfast, housed in an 18thcentury manor house slap bang in the middle of the town, right opposite the church.

Our hosts Martine and Guy were charming, their rooms delightful and the breakfasts always came with a nice little twist inasmuch as Martine would serve up crêpes with the Breton caramel butter, or a Breton tart, in addition to the familiar croissants, bread, fruit and yoghurts.

The place had a wonderfully informal feel and 65 euros a night for our room and two breakfasts was great value.

Hills and cliffs like rollers coasters don’t feature much in the landscape in this part of Brittany, so walking is easy on the calf muscles. The weather was wonderful so we walked every day out along the coast paths.

One trip took us to Kerrity, a little port, not too far from Le Guilvinec.

These days it’s a quiet, attractive place, but once it would have given Le Guilvinec a run for its money. For Kerrity was one of the best known trading ports on the west coast of France.

There’s a hint of its importance still remaining, as the place has not one but three lighthouses. , each replacing the previous one.

Head south out of Le Guilvinec, though, and some more familiar names quickly crop up on the road signs. Benodet and Concarneau.

The former has always been a big favourite with British holidaymakers and has a somewhat sophisticated air about itself. Concarneau, too, is well known but much, much bigger.

We visited both, retracing old times, but our much preferred favourites were two closer to where we were staying. One was Loctudy, the other, Ile Tudy. They face each other across the water and can be reached by passenger ferry.

The beaches at both are superb but Ile Tudy probably wins because just behind its golden sands is a vast, treeshaded area full of picnic tables, playgrounds, football pitches and so forth – and loads of car parking.

Most nights, though, we made it back to Le Guilvinec to join the vast hordes all craning their necks to spot the first of the fishing boats on the horizon and when we came to leave we did so with a tinge of regret, so enjoyable had our stay been.

But we still had an appointment with a boat to come.

Two hours or so up on the north coast we headed back to Roscoff, the picturesque ferry port used by Brittany Ferries for its services out of Plymouth.

We arrived on the early morning crossing, giving us an extra day in France, and going home we did so at a leisurely pace, too, taking the early afternoon crossing which got us in around 7pm and home to Bristol comfortably before midnight.

TRAVEL FACTS

Brittany Ferries sails direct from the convenient ports of Portsmouth, Poole and Plymouth to the popular holiday regions of western France saving miles of driving, fuel costs, tolls and overnight stops. You can choose to cruise across by day or overnight, or take a highspeed service arriving in France in as little as three hours.

Tim travelled from Plymouth to Roscoff, where fares start from around £50 per person each way, based on a family of four taking their car. For more information or to book, visit www.brittanyferries.com or call 0871 244 1400.

For the B&B accommodation in Le Guilvinec check out the website on www.cap-ouest.com.