ARTITECTURE: PORTRAIT of PRIVATE ARTISTE TABU TALKS ABOUT LOVE LIFE & MEN by Lofficiel India

PORTRAIT OF A PRIVATE ARTISTE TABU TALKS ABOUT LOVE, LIFE & MEN

ARTITECTURE

ISSUE

MARCH 2017 • ` 150

THE L’OFFICIEL TREND REPORT Curated Looks for Spring/Summer '17

L’Officiel

Edit Note

L’EDITO One of the most beautiful pieces of art I own is a jasmine plant. Every time I look at the little bud open, its layers one by one, which by the way, you can actually hear, the tiny creaks, if you go close enough, I am amazed at the universal artist who made that tiny piece of flower with such scientific precision−yes, the flower has five to ten petals and always has two stamens. And you thought symmetry was boring! But of course, the artist signs off with a fragrance that is most coveted - be it in your garden or in a bottle of Hermès perfume. It is pretty much like when one looked at the clouds as a child and imagined them morphing into various shapes and animals. Or when the sun set over the sea and is at the horizon, you see a perfect piece of canvas splattered with an array of colours and the fishermen like dots against the fading light. If that isn’t art what is? And this month, as we move from the grey of winter to the brightness of Spring/Summer, we dedicate this issue to the greatest artists who have found beauty in the simplest of forms. As art, design and fashion merge together to become one organism, we look at designers−young and new−who have successfully managed the ménage à trois. Be it the glamour of a Little Black Dress by Coco Chanel, the complexity of Christian Dior’s New Look or the beauty of graffiti on a t-shirt, art has always been part of this world, and even more so now. And so, our cover girl Tabu plays the canvas for L’officiel as artist Rouble Nagi uses her abstract work to show how art can have different meanings to different people. For some, it is a piece to show off to their equally pretentious friends, to many the pieces are investments meant to be locked up in a vault and for the lesser mortals, like you and me, art is something that is just beautiful−be it a flower or a gown. So, is fashion art? I guess it is, if it sets an entire trend. What other way would you explain the mug of Che Guevara on every wannabe-rebel’s t-shirt? I don’t know. Is art fashion? Why not, if someone is willing to give their right arm for an opportunity to stand in front of the Mona Lisa and wonder what makes her so special while art experts across the world come up with new theories on her beauty almost every fortnight?

Photograph By: Boa Campbellv

I hope one day we will fully understand the true relationship with all that is beautiful, and that I guess will be art, known by whatever name we choose to define it. The runways have been inspired this season from art and architecture. From the simplicity of monotones, graphic detailing, pristine whites to sexy sheers there is enough and a lot more. Our fashion team, as always, has meticulously decoded the looks and curated the best from the runway in The L’officiel Trend Report. Yes, shoes, bags, beauty -- the entire paraphernalia. Whatever your vibe for the day might be, we have made it easy for you. My personal favourite? Go for those architectural shoes if you are looking to make a statement. Enjoy! Neena Haridas Editor-in-Chief neena@lofficiel.in @neenaharidas

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Editor’s pick

THINGS I LOVE Finding art in the mundane to the most creative can be rather cathartic. Here are a few that knock you out with their simplicity.

313 Canvas slippers, Sanayi.

Faux-hhagreen cone match striker, Aerin.

Black mini pendant light, MacKenzie-Childs.

Cotton blouse, Valentino.

3Jours Mini denim tote, Fendi.

Tools bracelet, Balenciaga.

Silk and delicate care set, The Laundress.

Janelle printed cotton trousers, Isabel Marant Étoile.

Yoga mat, Adidas By StellaMccartney.

L’Officiel

Contents

L’édito — page 4

PRELUDE

FASHION Tricks of the shade — page 111

Cover story - And tall she stands — page 60 “Gabrielle de chanel” — page 66 J’adior — page 68

Time for secrets — page 128

Arm candy — page 78

Needles made needless — page 130

Backdrop — page 86

What’s your angle? — Page 132

What’s your tone tonight? — Page 88

“Fancy moonlight” by Graff — page 133

Monoplay — page 96

Arms that impose — page 134

Mettle of metal — page 100 There’s an artist around your neck! — Page 108

Girl in the wind — page 18 The clothing architect — page 20 En route 100… — page 22 Trend report — page 23 Add to cart — page 43 News

— page 47

Rampant beauty — page 120 Asymmetric reflections — page 127

Runway artifex — page 74

Confessions of a child of this century — page 14

Blue bayou — page 112

Gosh it’s gold! — Page 135 Tried and tested — page 136

Sculpted Forms — page 52

L’Officiel

Contents

ANNEX Shape of things to come — page 146 Of frame and fame — page 148 The art of plating — page 154 Director’s cut — page 156 No chink in her armour — page 160 Morning kisses — page 162 Through the annals of history — page 164 Iran opens its doors to quench the thirst of Western curiosity — page 138

Glam Night — page 169 ISSUE

PORTRAIT OF A PRIVATE ARTISTE TABU TALKS ABOUT LOVE, LIFE & MEN

The Big Deal — page 176

MARCH 2017 • ` 150

ARTITECTURE

Horoscope — page 175

THE L’OFFICIEL TREND REPORT Curated Looks for Spring/Summer '17

Top, Isabel Marant@Le Mill. Photograph by: Hemant Khandelwal. Styling by: Sureena Dalal. Assistant styling by: Dhruv Aditya Davé. Artwork by: Rouble Nagi. Makeup by: Donald Simrock@TFM. Hair by: Meitei.

Western wind — page 168

INDIA

March 2017 Publisher & CEO NITIN AGARWAL Chief Operating Officer ALOK KATIYAR

Associate Publisher ARPIT AGARWAL Editor-In-Chief NEENA HARIDAS EDITORIAL

SALES & MARKETING

Art Director SURENDER KUMAR

President RAJU SARIN

Fashion DHRUV ADITYA DAVE SUREENA DALAL

Regional Head TABRIZ AHMED Manager AMIT TIWARI

Strategic Alliance SUJYOTI CHAKRAVORTY PRODUCTION/CIRCULATION Manager RAJESH BISHT

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Executive RAKESH PANDEY

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Letters

2017 FEBRUARY

ASS NO GLNG S CEILI

• ` 150

, IDENTITY M, GENDER FREEDO SEXUA L EMPIR ES... BUILDING ING THE OR THROW E WIND, TH BRA TO TAK ES ON Y FEMININIT DEFINITION A NEW

KABNALUET UNBKRANEGA ANA R A

THE

FAME FETALE Your latest anniversary issue (“L’Officiel “February 2017)) was really a fabulous read.. ..The incredible cover with the drop dead gorgeous Kangana Ranaut, gave an ethereal appeal to your cover.... Who could imagine that behind that porcelain faced fragile beauty lurks a femme fatale!!? Her vivaciousness added another dimension to your cover. I couldn’t wait to read her interview (“She Conquers”)& I wasn’t disappointed Aparna Bhattacharya, Mumbai (WO)MANS WORLD Who bowled me over completely were 4 Vivacious Divas – Tina, Divya, Sapna and Sohaya (ASSEMBLED AT ENSEMBLE) who have engraved a Unique Address Of Their Own AT The Gates Of Modern

Society and the 3 Super Personalities (WONDER WOMAN) who are Drawing Deep Hole In The Male Bastion through their sheer dedication & exuberance. I wonder why do we still say, “It’s A Man’s World”? Anjali R., New Delhi NEW LINES I just wanted to say that I love the new layout of your magazine. It’s clean and minimal. Done aesthetically and not over loaded with images. I also loved that Apsara Reddy was one of the women featured in the story ‘Wonder Woman’. Her story is incredible! Reema Chawla, Bhopal A SHOT OF LOVE I’m an aspiring photographer and I’ve

THE LETTER OF THE MONTH WILL WIN A BEAUTY HAMPER.

always loved Peter Lindberghs work. Honestly, until now I never really read too much about his personal self but the story ‘In All Honesty’ was a great insight into him and his work. Thank you for helping me fall in love with this genius all over again! Dhanush Prakash, New Delhi PINK INK I’m obsessed with the colour pink. I never grew out of it. I’m now 26 and everyone seems to have an opinion about my love for the colour in relation to my age. I’m so happy to have an issue dedicated to pink with so many cool clothes, shoes, bags and accessories in pastel shades of pink. I like that it’s subtle and not in your face. Naina Gupta, Bengaluru

Loved our stories? Have something refreshing to say? Write in to us at lofficiel@tcg.media. Remember to mention your full name, address and contact number. Incomplete letters will be considered inapplicable. The winning letter for February 2017 is by Naina Gupta, Bengaluru.

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Contributors After exploring different art forms such as music, sketching and sculpting, Hemant J Khendilwal finally found his calling in photography. He has two decades of experience in fashion, portraits and advertising. For our March issue, Hemant has thorugh his lens has beautifully captures Tabu for our cover story “And Tall She Stands.”

Photographer

HEMANT J KHENDILWAL

PING WANG

Ping Wang is a China-born visual artist currently in New York. A graduate from The School of Visual Arts with a Master’s Degree in Digital Photography, Ping specialises in combining fashion and fine art with his unique aesthetics and his love for surreal and metaphysical art. Ping brings home a mermaid in the shoot “Blue Bayou’’.

Architect / Urbanist

Visual Artist

Photographer

CHRIS

Chris is an Italian photographer, born in Rome in 1989, and grew up in the UK. Passionate about anything that is closely related to the arts, including music, design, architecture and painting. He graduated in Saxophone and Interior Design and then subsequently in Cinematography. After his experience in the film industry he decided to dedicate himself to fashion photography. Currently working between Milan and Rome, Chris has shot the fashion spread, “Sculpted Forms.”

After completeing his graduation in India, Noor Dasmesh Singh moved to London for work. Continuing his professional education, he attended executive education courses at the Harvard University, USA and the Architectural Association, London. In the past, he has worked on some projects combining strategy and design at an urban and architectural scale. His involvements included the NW Developmental Framework for the prestigious British Museum, London, Roath Basin Masterplan, Cardiff . In this issue Noor curates the India Art Fair 2017 exclusively for L’officiel India.

NOOR D SINGH

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Contributors

The celebrity makeup artist has worked with clients like Kim Kardashian, Lady Gaga, Britney Spears, Paris Hilton, Eva Mendes, Lindsay Lohan, Avril Lavigne, Cindy Crawford, Kate Upton, Nicki Minaj, Madonna among others. He says makeup differs depending on the kind of occasion. Donald has done a beautiful job on Tabu for our cover story “And Tall She Stands.”

ABHISHEK P. CHATTERJEE

Rouble Nagi is the founder of Rouble Nagi Art Foundation & Rouble Nagi Design Studio. She is an award winning artist with over 800 murals to her credit. With over 150 exhibitions worldwide. The art connoisseur, curator and collector, promotes young and talented artists from India and abroad. Rouble worked on the artwork that on our cover girl Tabu. .

Artist

Journalist

Makeup Artist

Stylist

DONALD SIMROCK

Abhishek, a Mumbai based fashion designer and stylist started his career at a young age, as an illustrator working in Kolkata. Using paper as his primary medium, he specialised in constructing dresses using origami techniques. Since then, Abhishek has worked as a stylist with a number of Bollywood celebrities, fashion magazines, luxury brands and more. His creative interests lie in sculpting, painting, interior, set designing and product styling. Abhishek has played with colours and accessories in the shoot “Arm Candy”

ROUBLE NAGI

ELENI PAPAIOANNOU Born in Portland, Oregon, Eleni Papaioannou, after spending all her pocket money on magazines and getting her degree in Political Science from the University of Athens, Greece, started writing for magazines. This zeal led her to become the Editor-in-Chief for titles such as L’Officiel Mykonos. Eleni has, as always, penned down interesting stories like “Runway Artifex” and “Fluid Architecture” for our Artitechture Issue.

CHAPTER 1

PRELUDE

L’Officiel

Breakfast with...

CONFESSIONS OF A CHILD OF THIS CENTURY

Everybody loves Glenn Martens. Within just a few seasons he has brought forward an architectural aesthetic inspired from the ’90s, which intends to defy “good taste”. A rendezvous with the incredibly romantic creative director of Y/Project.

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Photo DR

lenn Martens excuses himself for his not so perfect French; he offers us a coffee and we accept willingly. It’s a rather cold day in Paris. An icy wind blows through our overcoats all the way to our bones. In the artist’s showroom, amidst the orders from the women’s and men’s lines of Y/Project since 2013, the cast iron radiators burn. Light pours in through the large windows. A beautiful parquet floor and tailored curtains of an elegant tweed, all of immaculate workmanship. We are certainly inside an atelier of high fashion. With this most Parisian aesthetic, a reserve of fantasies, which maintains the reputation of the City of Lights. The ambience is serious yet relaxed. The young man, 33 years old and the oldest of his team – dishevelled blonde hair, pierced ears, an exquisite knight on his left ring finger, wearing a pair of black topstitched jeans, a rolled collar pullover with delicate yellow stripes, a well-worn leather belt accentuating his form, takes the time to welcome us with a smile. And yet, in one week, he is to present his next Autumn/Winter collection for men at the Globo, a Parisian club on Boulevard de Strasbourg, representative of the ’90s. A communicative and friendly rapport is established immediately. He is frank and sensitive and talks quickly and efficiently. We know that he was born in Bruges, therefore the Flemish accent and the sometimes-jumbled words. After his studies in interior design, he registered at the The Royal Academy of Fine Arts at Antwerp. We are in 2008, noticed by the house of Jean Paul Gaultier, he leaves for Paris. A little freelance work and some experience here and there and he could not resist opening a brand under his name. But it was in 2013 after the death of Yohan Serfaty (the founder of this label) that his adventure with Y/Project really began. The label only designed for men. Glenn takes his time, respects this difficult time of mourning. Puts together his aesthetic repertoire, gradually, like the Adamo chant, one of his compatriots, “gently and with intensity”. With the support of Gilles Elalouf, the president of Y/Project, he develops his ‘collection femme’. But certainly, puts unisex at the heart of his creative thought. A third line. A third sex. Because the strength of the label Y/Project lies in this manner of directing fashion, to blur the lines between boy and girl, without negating them but while picturing a freer, not necessarily tenderer, world between references to the past, which he swears to cherish, and anchoring in this very real present. Meeting a modern man on the 4th floor of a peaceful building in the 10th arrondissement.

BY ADRIENNE RIBES-TIPHAINE PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALEXANDRE SILBERSTEIN

Breakfast with...

Do you agree with the term‘unisex’? Isn’t it a bit unfashionable? Glenn Martens: I’m not sure if that word is suitable. I make some clothes for men and the others for women and, in this large dressing room, 40 per cent of my creations are for both. When I start sketching it is a single, large collection. “Unisex” is just a simple way of classifying the clothing. But, in truth, more than a man, a woman or a social group, an individual wears the clothes, which gives him/her significance. My clothes exist to let personalities reveal themselves. In short, you make absolutely no differentiation whether its a man or a woman? In my shows for men’s clothing I present pieces that I also propose for the women’s show. They are the same pieces without any alterations and retouches, identical. These pieces exist along extremely feminine silhouettes or very masculine outfits. Clothes are not defined by a body but by an idea. Yes, by notions, values and concepts of construction. The architecture of clothing is paramount to us. We can modify the clothes; a piece adapts to the person who wears it. For example, with the Zip series where there is an exaggerated use of stress, or when I lengthen, excessively, the sleeves of a shirt, of a blouse or the legs of a pair of jeans, that I slide the joints in velour or leather trousers. When I bring out an outrageous amount of accumulation at the base of a pair of trousers. Depending on how a person decides to wear a certain piece, the unusual look will be different every time. Clothes that you create, do they go through a mutation of sorts? Constantly, that is where a large part of the work, I put into my collections, goes. Versatility is a fundamental value for Y/Project. And for that, as per your references, you are inspired by everything? My freedom is absolute and fundamental. I look at the sub cultural aspect, ethnic trends, those of history. And I reinterpret. Consequently, my clothes are impregnated by these reinterpretations. When, for example, a bomber jacket is worn zipped up by a man, it can have a very hard and sub cultural impact, and when, a few months later, I put the same jacket on a woman, zip open with velour trimmings and knots, the piece becomes almost baroque. I love how one piece can have different lives and different personalities.

RTW, Spring/Summer 2017.

Isn’t this blurring of the lines natural in your time of gender definitions and boundaries? Does openness interest you? Freedom interests me, freedom over glory. We have the opportunity of living in big cities, Paris, London, New York, Berlin, which are supposed to celebrate the freedom of being, individuality. Our parents fought for it, our grandparents as well, today we should celebrate it, that is what I do with this brand. Should fashion play that role? Fashion has no specific role to play, It is only a mode of expression. It is a business, the way for a person, a designer, to express one’s feelings, it is an extension of one’s personality. In the end, it is simply about clothes.

It therefore has the function of clothing and aesthetic, also that of a dream? Yes, but it isn’t restricted by a social obligation. It is, nonetheless, protesting now! Yes, most certainly, and many designers do so very well. Personally, I love fashion for it allows me to be. Without being defined by one role. We are, you and me, several personalities. I could be a businessman, a lover, the worst of the clubbing youth, an uncle or a very loving godparent. I am all of these things during a week. And this opportunity, that is available to us, I like to affirm through my collections. There isn’t one single political statement; I play the card of emotion and aesthetic.

Breakfast with... Are you aware that your fashion resembles a puzzle constructed around several references, the ’90s, street wear, the Renaissance, Tupac, Napoleon—which gives it a radical expression, almost brutal, even if it comes across as extremely poetic? My fashion is diverse and complex but my goal is never to shock. I want to have a ball, amuse myself, celebrate this diversity that enriches our world. Moreover, my team is a reflection of who I am, We are 15 and there are, two French, a Turk, an American, a Canadian, Israelis, Belgians… many histories that intersect and different personalities. You are all very young! Yes, I am the oldest. (laughs) Also, very loyal, your team has followed you for a long time. Everything is very emotional. Fashion is on the brink of many things at the moment, it faces the past and the future, the trash and the bourgeois. Where do you put yourself in all of this? What is beautiful or ugly to you? I have no rules, all of it is relevant socioculturally. It is the balance and the proportions that are considered aesthetically pleasing. I grew up in Bruges, small museum like town, sublime, as pretty as it was boring, in a quaint and traditional family with judge for a father, a nurse for a mother and grandparents who were in the army. You have inherited a rather classic taste then? Very classic. I was in a catholic school and I learnt Latin. I was, for the longest time, obsessed by this uniform beauty. I remember my first vacation without my parents, I was disappointed that it wasn’t as aesthetically pleasing as Bruges. I looked hard for this balance. Accepting the ugly wasn’t easy. I rejected it for a long time, only relying on that beauty. After being driven by and integrating this classic elegance I was intrigued to look for the contrary. I was interested in everything that is scary and that hurts. And then I put them in the light, at the heart of my aesthetics. Which was what? I used fake fur, velour, looked for disproportion. My failure was in turning all of it pretty and accessible. And that’s where Y/Project is to introspect. Every day, with my team, we discuss if we have been able to surpass these limits.

16 What are they, these limits? I don’t know myself, it is something emotional. A lot of thoughts, a lot of sentiments. Every season I make mistakes, I go too far. Have you gone too far with this Spring/Summer collection? I have grown so I make fewer mistakes. It doesn’t have to be elegant, I use colours that don’t, from the start, go together but, in reality, work. My goal is to create the unexpected. What designs have been successes in this collection? Those which hurt to maintain one’s composure: the cow bustier, the velour outfit with pearl suspenders? They hurt, that’s true. The cow outfit was a big moment. It has been put together as a Renaissance bustier, without a bust which makes it flat, conceived to have the chest bursting through. It changes the silhouette of whoever wears it, it makes it flat. But that isn’t easy, one must want it. Or not. In every piece I love stumbling onto this second layer. But everyone is free to discover it or not. You aren’t for cliques and tribes? That is exactly what we don’t want. No tribes! Although we do live it, fashion houses do form gangs. It’s easier, for business. Brands produce armies, by wearing a certain piece we become part of a clan. We are against that. Even if our shows have a strong image, the collection is very diverse. Bombers, cocktail dresses, personalisation… cotton, nylon, velour, denim, Harris Tweed, there are always constructive concepts that we develop whether they are noticed or not. The brand of Y/Project displays different temperaments, far from regular proposals and the standard. But we also have very classic pieces. I like to titillate. On the contrary there aren’t any basic pieces but more those that work with everything. What do you think about the idea of day and night clothing? How to dress for the evening? Normally, we don’t dress ourselves, I believe we prefer to be naked. I love the idea of being casual in the evening. Just a pair of jeans or a dress, it depends on the night. I need to unwind in the evening. Like when I need to head off to Scotland, to go trekking with some friends, we don’t drink, we don’t eat, we walk in the rain with our rucksacks. All these extremes create a person, which I have a need of.

Photos DR

L’Officiel

Breakfast with... You know then, what it is to be extreme… I can be an ascetic staying shut up in my apartment for weeks and then I can be completely the opposite. I don’t believe in following a single path. Do you still feel this freedom in today’s violent world, with elected heads of state who do not propagate diversity and openness? I feel them both simultaneously, on the one hand a world which is becoming more closeminded and over conservative and then the people around me who have and enjoy this freedom. Who are not afraid. Judgement is perhaps less important, it is there but we don’t care. So much so that we are respectful, we can do what they’d like. One must, nevertheless, have roots, a culture, parents, people who give you a solid foundation, I can say that everyone born in western Europe this last 30 years have been lucky. Now it is a matter of what we do. I have a base and a clan but it was necessary for me to free myself and move away from the world of colonels and soldiers in which I grew up. I left for Paris to make chiffon. Was that difficult? Not that much, but it was a little revolutionary. I had decided on my dream, I followed it in a subtle manner. I was first in my class, I left fashion school at Anvers and I had a job waiting for me in Paris. My family played a role but I must admit that it was a bit of a discovery. No regrets? None at all, I am very happy.

“My fashion is diverse and complex but my goal is never to shock. I want to have a ball, amuse myself, celebrate this diversity that enriches our world.”

You’re starting to get nostalgic? I have an immense duality. I can be incredibly cold and then completely romantic. I’m obsessed with history and so have a nostalgic side. I have always had a bit of a backdrop of melancholia; I must say though that I love that! You maintain that? I enjoy living in misfortune, there is so much passion there. I feel alive when I cry. You watch yourself crying? It’s good! It is just that I don’t have time for that, I prefer having time for the melancholic moments, My dream is to live in Venice in the winter and do nothing but watch the grey sky over the canals.

17 And music, what do you listen to in the evening? Oh, that’s complicated, I have all sorts of evenings. Now for example? Since the new year, I have been on Ramadan mode, which is good during fashion shows. Tomorrow night, on the other hand, will be a late one. A big party at some friends’! Other genres for the evening, for melancholia, to dance to, to make love to? I have a very eclectic taste in music. When I’m out its more of electro and techno. For crying I listen to Barbara. At work its more classical or baroque. During the day, I’d say TLC, Massive Attack, Radiohead. In the morning, its FIP, I love FIP, and even in the evenings I can find myself drinking till 3 a.m. listening to the radio. Website: www.yproject.fr

L’Officiel

The Face

GIRL IN THE WIND She is a model and a musician, born in London in 1992. Meeting Staz Lindes, the daughter of the guitarist of Dire Straits and the new muse for Yves Saint Laurent Beauté. BY MÉLANIE MENDELEWITSCH

Your beauty tips and everyday makeup? I start with a Caudalie cleansing foam, then a serum and a Caudalie day cream. As for make up, I prefer to remain natural, I don’t like to modify my complexion or put on any effects that are obvious. Just some SPF 50, lipstick and mascara. Who takes care of your hair? I am a fan of the David Mallett salon in Paris, one finds the best colourists there. I try not to wash my hair too often to prevent them from becoming too sensitive. I use Oribe products or vinegar for the shine and eco-friendly products by Earth Science.

Do you have a fixed workout regime? I have a metabolism that helps me stay thin. It’s just in the family, my mother is like that, as is my father, my brothers and my sister. I am aware of how lucky I am! When I am abroad on tour I often look up fitness courses on YouTube, the abdominal exercises or the squats that I can practice anywhere. How do you maintain a healthy diet when you are on tour? It is quite complicated but fortunately there are more and more health food stores such as Whole Foods Market

in the United States, in Canada and Britain. I try and prepare most of my meals myself, eat avocados or oleaginous fruits. Before travelling for work, I go to organic stores and stock up on powders, proteins and chia grains which I slip into my luggage. Do you see yourself as part of this generation, ultra connected, who look at beauty through tutorials and Instagram clichés? I love make up but complex techniques, for the same, don’t interest me. I got my education by observing the women around me and those who inspired me, while perfecting my everyday mannerisms. During my years as a child model, I learnt by being in contact with makeup experts who taught me a few useful tips: for example, to lift my appearance during the day, I take a little lipstick from my lips and

put it on my cheeks, I tap it on for circulation and to let it blend in. What are your favourite Yves Saint Laurent products? I have a weakness for the new Kiss and Blush, the Vinyl Cream Lipstick and the Couture Kajal eyeliner. These are my unassailable three, I carry them wherever I go.

Rouge à lèvres Volupté Tint-in Balm, Yves Saint Laurent, €35.

Photos DR

Do you like to change your perfume regularly or do you prefer using the same? For many years, I changed my fragrance regularly. I like masculine olfactive notes, tobacco, amber, woody scents or a little intoxicating like patchouli. Of late, I enjoy the natural scent of my naked skin. One thing is for sure, I don’t care for the girly, sweet fragrances.

RAIT OF A PRIVATE ARTISTE TABU TALKS ABOUT LOVE, LIFE & MEN

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Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Officiel

The World of...

THE CLOTHING

The Spring/Summer RTW 2017. Below, Albert Kriemler.

A fashion designer with an exemplary track record, Albert Kriemler is also a great lover of art. The creative director of the house of Akris has opened, for us, the doors to his universe, two steps away from Lake Constance.

Photos DR

BY MATHILDE BERTHIER

ARCHITECT

L’Officiel

The World of...

“If I hadn’t become a fashion designer I would have studied architecture.” One needs to get into an Akris dress to understand that. Impeccable mastery of proportions, perfect harmony between cuttings and material. Albert Kriemler is self-made, in a career spanning 37 years with Akris, a subtle and disarming vocabulary, nourished by the architects Adolf Loos and Sou Fujimoto, by the painter Giorgio Morandi. “Fashion and architecture have a specific goal, they follow rules and require a craft. Not art. I see them as shells for people.” Educated in fashion by his family (the house of Akris was founded by his grandmother, Alice Kriemler-Schoch, in 1922). Albert is just about an adult when he joined the company. “I joined immediately after I finished high school because my father’s right hand ‘died’ after an accident. That young, one obeys. So, I tried to give some ideas.” The young man sketches frantically, explores the history of art and pushes himself to create a feeling, not just style: “To make fashion, before everything one is to create an impressive dress that takes you and makes you feel beautiful.”

Right: In the creative studio of Akris at Saint Gall. Below: Backstage and the ready to wear spring summer 2017 show in New York.

LOW PROFILE Discreet, pensive, Albert Kriemler preferred, from a very young age, to keep a low profile; “I don’t have time for a public life neither a social network. My motherland, Switzerland, has a culture of discretion which I appreciate a lot. Carmen Herrera, the New York artist, with whom I collaborated for the Spring/Summer 2017 collection, reaffirmed the idea that fame only distracts one from their work.” And even though Akris has been showing in Paris since 2004, the designer has never moved away from Saint Gall, the true turntable of textiles, nestled at the foot of the Glarus Alps: “Saint Gall is the epicentre of handicraft and technology. Teams from the largest fashion houses of Milan and Paris come every season to discover what’s new in the world of textiles. There is a tradition of embroidery in Saint Gall. We work hand in hand with all these innovators, Akris is capable of developing new techniques very quickly.” MUSIC LOVER AND CONNOISSEUR So, a homebody, Mr. Akris? “No, I love to travel. Alone, with my family or friends. Only recently I was in Kenya at the Maasai Mara reserve with family; I also went to the inauguration of the new Elbphilharmonie at Hamburg with my friends, the Swiss architects Jacques Herzog and Pierre de Meuron who created it.” An insatiable collector, he clears out contemporary art fairs – Art Basel, Frieze, Biennale di Venezia – he also regularly visits the Whitney Museum, the MoMA or the Galleria Palace, his fetish museums. His next destinations? Minneapolis, Bilbao and Miami, where he’d love to visit the Pérez Art Museum. We finish by asking him if he would care for time travel. And once again, he replies with art and logic; “I would probably choose the first ten years of the 20th century. The setting of a tremendous conversation between art, literature, science and music. That’s where modernism began. But for the most part, I’m not someone who looks backwards.”

ADDRESSES AT SAINT GALL The Textile museum, for his unique collection of embroideries and lacing. Vadianstrasse 2, Saint Gall, www. textilmuseum.ch The famous university with its solid architecture and open air sculptures. Dufourstrasse 50, Saint Gall. www. unisg.ch The library at the millenary abbey of Saint Gall, a UNESCO world heritage site. Klosterhof 6B, Saint Gall. www. st.gallen-bodensee.ch The Red Square, an urban space created by Pipilotti Rist, between Akris HQ and the town centre.

L’Officiel

Brand Watch

EN ROUTE 100… Furla, the Italian brand of bags and accessories, celebrates 90 years to begin an exciting journey.

Opening of their first boutique under Furla in the heart of the famous Red City, by Ugo Bassi. The store still exists today. Carlo, Paolo and Giovanna (opposite), the three Furlanetto children, take over from their father. The bags are now stamped with the logo of Furla leading to the first collection of the house. Their creations go beyond Europe and fly over the Atlantic all the way to the United States. Furla reaches China and Japan, and continues to play the card of daring. Always respectful to its original craftsmanship, the brand attempts the mixing of materials, marrying leather to nylon, or rubber and other such innovations. Giovanna Furlanetto throws herself into the patronage of contemporary art. The Furla per l’Arte prize becomes the most prestigious award in the peninsula for its field. Photo: talent/um tolerare by Joseph Kosuth, winner of the Furla prize in 2000.

Giovanna Furlanetto follows her work of patronage and established the Fondazione Furla, in Bologna, dedicated to young artists and contemporary art projects. The online boutique was inaugurated. Furla opens a large boutique next to the Dôme de Milan, a store in Venice and another in the centre of the Asian hotel, The Venetian Macao. Exclusive concept stores of a refined production. This is the year when sales of the ‘Metroplios’ skyrocket. This bag, inspired by a model of the 1990s, partners with a timeless sophistication and futuristic creativity. It reinvents itself season after season. The Palazzo Furla sees light of day in Milan, at the heart of a palace constructed in 1880, which receives a certificate awarding its ecological durability. Furla celebrates its 90 years spanning a collection of bags that find their roots in vitality and optimism. The concept? One decade, one hand bag. A true time machine, each bag is a blink of an eye in the nine decades of this house of creation. An homage to the path that has led them here. En route 100 years! Bags available in May: www.furla.com

Photos ADAGP, Paris 2017, DR

Creation of Furla by Aldo and Margherita Furlanetto. An accessories company of leather goods is seen as one of the principle historic, artistic houses of the north of Italy: Bologna, by Emilie-Romagne. Elegance and true Italian joie de vivre form the soul of this house.

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BY JULIA MACAREZ

THE Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;OFFICIEL

TREND REPORT Spring/Summer 2017 decoded! BY DHRUV ADITYA DAVE SUREENA DALAL

RESEARCH ASSISTANTS BHAVYA GARKEMUKHU NATASHA SRIVASTAVA SHIVANI DAHIYA

Trend Report

Off-White

Alexander Wang

Stella McCartney .

Fendi

Courrèges

DKNY

L’Officiel

GAME PLAN

It was DKNY that gave us a nod to preserve our athleisure and Fendi that rendered active wear couture. Luxury sportswear takes centre court with spandex leggings, ultra lightwear nylon anoraks and crystal studded tracksuit tops.

Miu Miu

Giambattista Valli

Altuzarra

Kenzo

Prada

Alexander Wang

Trend Report

Céline

L’Officiel

BARE ESSENTIALS

CLASSICS REIMAGINED

Who knew deconstructing our traditional button down shirt would result in haute couture. Crediting Monse for the inception of fractured tailoring, Alexander Wang, Victoria Beckham and Tome too had models strutting down the runway in eccentrically draped pieces.

Victoria Beckham

Alexander Wang

Tome

Self-Portrait

Hood By Air

Each X Other

Monse

Be it Giambattista Valli’s lacey delicates or Prada’s fine feather plumage, the runway paid homage to various renditions of risqué. We suggest you to take the boudoir trend out of the bedroom this season.

Michael Kors

Hermès

Bottega Veneta

Céline

Gucci

Blumarine

PINKVILLA

From loud and proud to blushed tones, a spectrum of pink reigned supreme on the catwalk. Take a cue from Balenciaga, Céline or Valentino, this is the colour you need on your radar this spring.

Valentino

METALMORPHOSIS

If Rousteing revelled in vintage ’70s glam, Saint Laurent donned ’80s luxurious lamé with a twist. We are swooning over this season’s most glamorous revival yet.

Marc Jacobs

Ralph Lauren

Saint Laurent

Carolina Herrera

Marchesa

Balmain

Trend Report

Kenzo

L’Officiel

Each X Other

Lacoste

Michael Kors

3.1 Philip Lim

Hellessy

Trend Report

Custo Barcelona

Anna Sui

L’Officiel

SLIT PERSONALITY

WORD ON THE STREET

‘You are what you wear’ was the motto that ran rampant as Maria Grazia Chiuri and Prabal Gurung unleashed political subtexts down the runway while Henry Holland rebooted his signature slogans to make a statement, literally!

Pyer Moss

Paco Rabbane

Jeremy Scott

House of Holland

Carven

Ashley Williams

Ashish

Michael Kors urges us all to have a slit up our sleeves as they get an update for the spring. Philip Lim’s zippered up version or Anna Sui’s peek-a-boo slash, this is the neatest trick to transform an otherwise boring outfit.

Stella McCartney

Sally LaPointe

Loewe

Balenciaga

Isabel Marant

Alberta Ferretti

Trend Report

Balmain

Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Officiel

WAIST AND WATCH

Akris

Nicole Miller

Lanvin

Kimora Lee Simmons

Bibhu Mohapatra

Libertine

Altuzarra

The cinched up waist received a refreshing makeover on the catwalk this Spring, courtesy Balenciaga, Alberta Ferretti and Stella McCartney to name a few. Celebrate this reunion of renaissance with the art of layering.

BLACK & WHITE SYMPHONY

Some things are way too glam to ever be damned. And when crafted with the deft hands of prodigies like Akris, Nicole Miller and Lanvin, these pieces are your one-way ticket to adopting the essence of style icons.

Trend Report

Antonio Marras

JEAN MACHINE

Blumarine

EXOTIC ESCAPE

Skipping town this summer to make your way to an unwinding retreat? These somber and versatile interpretations of vacation wear by designers like Sonia Rykiel, Loewe and Acne Studios fuse class and functionality to give you the perfect ensemble for your holiday getaway!

3.1 Phillip Lim

Acne Studios

Sonia Rykiel

Topshop Unique

Loewe

Les Copains

This season, the world stands gawking as style dictators like Carolina Herrera, Fausto Puglisi and Roberto Cavalli reinvent classic denims with all things fashionable. Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s your pick?

Fausto Puglisi

Alexis Mabille

Alexander McQueen

Adam Selman

Aalto

Carolina Herrera

Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Officiel

Trend Report

Dolce & Gabbana

Blumarine

Giambattista Valli

Zimmermann

Zac Posen

FLORAL REVIVAL

HOT PUR ‘SUIT’

The new era of Power Dressing aims to turn up the heat in the boardrooms, with Antonio Marras, Céline and Vionnet reinventing ordinary formals into fashionable, contemporary versions. Who says you can’t play at work?

Agnona

Vionnet

Céline

Monse

Escaping with the timeless charm of florals has always been inevitable, even more so, when the stunning pieces by Blumarine, Zac Posen and Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini shower down the runways in full bloom.

Kimora Lee Simmons

Antonio Marras

Akris

Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini

Victoria Beckham

L’Officiel

Trend Report

Tory Burch

Céline

Fendi

Chloé

Akris

Valentino

L’Officiel

SNEAK PEEK

Akris

RAGE OF ORANGE

As the runways of Balmain, Bibhu Mohapatra and Victoria Beckham bask in the glory of everything orange, right from tangerine and marmalade to rust and amber, unwind and unplug with sun kissed shades that make for a lively Spring/Summer wardrobe!

Tory Burch

Nicole Miller

Barbara Bui

Balmain

Creatures of The Wind

Bibhu Mohapatra

When maestros like Chloé, Tory Burch and Fendi flirt with cutouts and windows, you know it’s time to indulge in some gorgeous show and tell. So, this season go ahead, bare some and hide some as you play the demure damsel.

Loewe

Marni

DKNY

Isabel Marant

Jacquemus

Sportmax

Trend Report

3.1 Phillip Lim

L’Officiel

SPOT SOMETHING STRUNG

Rosie Assoulin

BEFOLD BASICS

Forget your belts, forget boring waistlines; for fold over waists are going to rule it all. It won’t be possible to wear belts with these outfits, but it’s for the fashion itself−chic up with these stylish pants

Tome

Isabel Marant

Diane von Furstenberg

Proenza Schouler

Monse

Casual style is a trend we’ve been eyeing for at least a couple of Spring/Summer seasons. The drawstring, that’s usually reserved for sweats is going cocktail hour, workday and beyond. It’s all about picking the right pieces to pair with your confidence.

Dolce & Gabbana

Marc Jacobs

Prada

Emilio Pucci

Michael Kors

Trend Report

Miu MIu

L’Officiel

HOT PANTS SASS

Self Portrait

Pyer Moss

Adam Selman

Aquilano Rimondi

PINSTRIPE REVIVAL

From the ultra-minimalist white, wide-leg pants updated with thin stripes, to all-new ways to wear a navy suit. There’s nothing dated about the way you’ll be pulling off pinstripe prints this season. This classic pattern is about to become your new sartorial go-to.

Rag & Bone

DKNY

Etro

These sultry shorts are definitely not for the faint hearted! Hot pants do certainly catch the eye. Yes ladies, legs are, without a doubt, hot this season and it is time for you to start showing them off!

Marques Almeida

Alexander Wang

Balmain

BARELY-THERE

When it comes to style, sometimes less really is more. As much as bright colours and vivid prints have their place in everyoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wardrobe, the power of taking a minimal approach should not be underestimated. This white-out-look is down to its clean, fresh and contemporary feel.

Self Portrait

Stella McCartney

SIMPLY WHITE

Rag & Bone

Lanvin

Louis Vuitton

From the runway to the red carpet and to the streets, sheer clothing has been dominating the fashion scene for a long time now and the runways took on playing it super-daring, with ultra-sheer fabrics and see-through silhouettes meant to reveal more and more, leaving little to imagination.

3.1 Phillip Lim

Christopher Kane DKNY

Marc Jacobs

Trend Report

Carolina Herrera

Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Officiel

Trend Report

Marc Jacobs Moschino

Saint Laurent

Elie Saab

Loewe

Christian Louboutin

Dolce & Gabbana

COLOUR BURST

If only chasing rainbows were as easy as the likes of Elie Saab, Marc Jacobs and Christian Louboutin have made it seem! Add that essential zing to your closet with myriad colours.

Loewe

Kate Spade New York

Paul Smith

Eugenia Kim

J.W.Anderson

Fendi

Bottega Veneta

Saint Laurent

Mark Cross

LOST IN WEAVES

This spring, let loose in the magic of tactile impressions. From threads and ropes, cords and straws to basket weaves, runway rulers such as the creations of Bottega Veneta, J.W.Anderson and Marc Cross, marvels of woven allure for every girlâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wardrobe.

Trend Report

Christian Dior

Kenzo

Balenciaga

Givenchy

Lanvin

Olympia Le-Tan

Prada

GO DOODLE

When the bandwagon is steered by legends such as Dior, Prada and Kenzo, one can’t possibly resist jumping in. The nostalgia’s just gonna drive us back to the drawing board with scribbled notes, quirky typography, cool illustrations and hand drawn sketches raining down the runway. Anya Hindmarch

Charlotte Olympia

Dolce & Gabbana

Sophie Anderson

Loewe

Moschino

UNUSUAL ANOMALY

Having correctly fathomed that fashionable times call for fashionable measures, mavens like Moschino, Kate Spade and Dolce and Gabbana are pulling no stops with their innovative approach to an Out of the ‘Bag’ array of designs.

Kate Spade New York

Thom Browne

Gianvito Rossi

Saint Laurent

Paul Andrew

Giuseppe Zanotti

Miu Miu

Marc Jacobs

GLITTERING GLAMOUR

Aquazzura

Marco De Vincenzo

Dolce & Gabbana

Gianvito Rossi

Jimmy Choo

Valentino

HANG IN THERE

Flaunt your chicest styles this season as Aquazurra, Marco De Vincenzo and Nicole Miller take the glam quotient a few notches high with fringe and tassel detailing in exotic colours and assorted textures.

Nicole Miller

Let sequins and glitter be your BFFs this season with the likes of Giuseppe Zanotti, Miu Miu and Paul Andrew heading the niche. Come, shine as you strut along, with all things sparkling.

Kate Spade New York

Blumarine

Elie Saab

Trend Report

Balmain

Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Officiel

Casadei

Christian Louboutin

Dolce & Gabbana

Giuseppe Zanotti

Miu Miu

Nicholas Kirkwood

Gucci

Trend Report

Tory Burch

Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Officiel

THE PEARL STORY

Alexandre Birman

Aquazzura

Gianvito Rossi

Jil Sander

Ralph Lauren

Sergio Rossi

WILD THINGS

Take a step into the wilderness and add some luxe to your waning wardrobe as Alexandre Birman, Jil Sander and Ralph Lauren tread along with rare and exotic snakeskin shoes. Let the scales catch the limelight!

Loius Vuitton

3.1 Phillip Lim

Rejoice in the spirit of the season as the elegance of the pearl flows from our jewellery boxes onto the runways of Tory Burch, Casadei and Nicholas Kirkwood. Immerse yourself in the timeless appeal of the most coveted sea treasure.

Alberto Guardiani

Alice + Olivia

Christian Louboutin

Gianvito Rossi

Malone Souliers

Salvatore Ferragamo

Fendi

Trend Report

Barbara Bui

Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Officiel

STEP INTO THE OCEAN

Alexander Mcqueen

Balenciaga

Fendi

Jimmy Choo

Isabel Marant

Gucci

SLAYING WITH STYLE

Step into the arena as the runways of Alexander McQueen, Gucci and Balenciaga gear up to wage war, clad in metal fittings, studs and spikes. Ladies, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time you put on your style armour.

No21

Bibhu Mohapatra

For every woman who has loved the idea of her feet in seafoam, Christian Louboutin, Malone Souliers and Salvatore Ferragamo have quite literally, solidified the ocean hues and reserved a special place in our closet.

L’Officiel

Trend Report

Chanel

Dolce & Gabbana

Marc Jacobs

Miu Miu

N°21

Givenchy

Prada

Christian Dior

Anya Hindmarch

SUMMER STAPLES

Lovers of flat-soled shoes rejoice! Slides have been hailed as the go-to shoe style and are having their moment in the fashion spotlight and certain designs are so beautiful you’ll want to store them away for the next few months before you can get yourself to wear them.

Aquazzura

Dolce & Gabbana

Gucci

Jimmy Choo

Michael Kors

Prada

Christian Dior

Sophia Webster

Salvatore Ferragamo

Céline

BACK IN STYLE

The kitten heel has been claimed by the fashion set and given a new−ultra elegant−lease of life. Offering a practical but still polished look, the mini heel can also be particularly flattering.

L’Officiel

Trend Report

Dior

Gucci

Guess

Laurence Dacade

Prada

Stuart Weitzman

Miu Miu

Chloé

Marc Jacobs

BLOCK ALERT

Valentino

Chiara Ferragni

Miu Miu

Golden Goose Deluxe Brand

N°21

Sergio Rossi

Tory Burch

DENIM DECONSTRUCTION

Denims are one of the most ubiquitous items of clothing around the world. For years, they’ve been a symbol of nonchalant laid back style. Denim isn’t just for jeans anymore, now responsible for sprucing up shoes and leader of the pack with these chic styles.

Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini

Stocking up on summer must-haves? Well then, focus your attention on the block heel sandals. The ’90s favourite finally making a comeback and giving your summer sandals a little lift. They. Go. With. Everything. The comfy heel will work with you all day, from the office to happy hour to dinner and finally to an ‘I-shouldn’t-be-doing-this-but-who-cares’ nightcap.

Trend Report

Coach 1941

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Alexander Wang

Ash

Stella McCartney

Dolce & Gabbana

Miu Miu

Paloma Barcelo

Céline

3.1 Phillip Lim

Opening Ceremony

Gucci

Guess

N°21

Malone Souliers

Balmain

FLAT OUT FABULOUS

Nothing says “hello spring!” quite like a pair of fun, traffic stopping flatforms. Style, comfort, and a little lift all rolled into one sandal.

Acne Studios

THE MULE AFFAIR

When the heat kicks in closed-toe shoes are not an option, but this year’s crop of sandals will make you forget what an ankle boot even looks like. Mules are the cutest springtime pair, so you can walk with comfort and ease this season—while still looking cute, of course.

Mulberry

Rag & Bone

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Anatomy of a Bag

Four creative dynamics offer you a list of their top picks showing the unison of art and design

Tapis, Patricia Urquiola.

GAURI MALHOTRA TEXTILE DESIGNER Art school graduate Gauri Malhotra’s love affair with textile weaving began as she travelled across the country. After having designed textiles for designers such as Manish Arora, Valentino and Topshop Boutique, Gauri lends her aesthetic to give us her top choices of fabrics for the hottest days of summer.

Cushion, Anna Badur

Dries Van Noten SS17

ADD TO CART

Bag, Proenza Schouler

Jacket, Faustine Steinmetz

Auping Lemited Edition Kelim, Mae Engelgeer.

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Anatomy of a Bag

Tasbih, Zarina Hashmi, Gallery Espace.

KAVERI ACHARYA Gallery Associate, TARQ

Night Prowl, Waswo X Waswo, Tasveer.

An art historian by training with a penchant for turbans, Delhi girl, Kaveri moved to Mumbai for love. She transitioned from academic to the world of art galleries and currently runs a cultural programme for TARQ, one of the young and upcoming galleries in contemporary art. This is her list of beautiful art to adorn your office space.

Tango Lamp, Paul Matter.

I Was You, Aisha Khalid, Nature Morte.

Shibori Throw, Ecru.

Cirque, C- type print, Ram Shergill, Tasveer.

The Holding Of Vigilence, Samode Palace, Karen Knorr, Tasveer.

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Anatomy of a Bag

KARUN AND MEGHNA MALIK Founders, The Lohasmith

Shakti Napkin, Kim Seybert

Louis Ghost Chair, Kartell.

The Lohasmith is a brand crafting metal home dĂŠcor, established in early 2016 by husband-wife duo Karun and Meghna Malik after leaving their stable jobs to build on their dream. They curate the perfect pieces to decorate your mid summer parties with!

Constellation Napkin Ring, Kim Seybert.

Test Tube Vase, The Lohasmith. Cushion, Missoni Home.

Orb Crystal Chandelier, Timothy Oulton.

Vega Rhine Wine Glass, Baccarat.

Twinkle Gold String Lights, Crate & Barrel.

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Anatomy of a Bag

Rubber - Dipped Dot Mug, Sight Unseen.

RAVI VAZIRANI Founder, Ravi Vazirani Design Studio Ravi Vazirani values aesthetics, practicality and that dash of je ne sais quoi. His studio has worked on projects like restaurants and cafes like The Stolen Coffee Room in New Mumbai and High Spirits in Pune, studio and office spaces for the likes of Himatsingka and the homes of design cognoscenti and producer Karan Johar and more. He gives us an insight into his top choices for an ideal home.

Notescape Notebook, Nendo for Moleskin.

Credenza, Patricia Urquiola And Frederico Pepe for Spazio Pontaccio

Corona Globe, Nendo.

Jean-Marie Massaud for Glas Italia, Don Cavalleto.

Office Cane Chair, Pierre Jeanneret.

My Beautiful Backside, Doshi Levien for Moroso.

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Et cetera

Your quick guide to all that’s new in lifestyle.

ABSTRACT INSIGHTS An assemblage of humane inklings in a compassionate exposition titled Surrealist Humanity, opening on March 7th at Delhi’s Open Palm Court, features three artists’ contemporary crusade of the Indian art world. Showcasing the Renaissance inspired works of Anitta Sethi embedded in earthly hues, Deepali Roongta’s paintings expressing interpretations of human life in natural forms and bright candid colours and Shashi Tripathi’s canvas that molds body parts to convey emotions through rare colours in primary shades; the exhibition endeavors to compel viewers to perceive the human form from different perspectives.

TAG ALONG American Street art star Alec Monopoly is now imparting his contagiously artistic touch at the TAG Heuer headquarters in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Having been appointed the brand’s Art Provocateur by CEO Jean-Claude Biver, the artist was seen infusing rich colours and the famous Alec Monopoly humour to the building with his graffiti wall, along with Tag Heuer employees and some privileged guests in a workshop.

LUXE LIVING

The crème-de-la-creme of Delhi gets a new destination to indulge in some superluxurious environs while getting thier beauty and hair treatments done. World renowned hair dresser Rossano Ferretti, has opened another salon at Zehen, The Manor Hotel in Friends Colony, New Delhi. Having stripped down beauty and hairdressing to its most natural, organic elements, Rossano Ferretti has done away with the staged perceptions of beauty in his Hair Spas, and has thus transformed the way people perceive hairdressing and hair salons.

WALL PLAY From the most exuberant motifs to the subtlest texture, wall covering makes a design statement like no other. Adorn your walls with the new collection of Clarke & Clarke wallpapers, available in nine different designs including mica and metallic highlights amongst patterns for the luxurious touch. Pineapple, harlequin, stripe and trellis designs feature in this lively range of non-woven wallpapers while paying homage to the Pantone Colour of 2017, Greenery.

Peace Corner

This Spring, Roche Bobois introduces dramatic pieces of furniture in edgy futuristic designs, for modern and contemporary living spaces. Designed by Antoine Fritsch and Vivien Durisotti, the armchairs are inspired by wide coastal spaces and boats. The highlight of the season is the Jean Nouvel table which is a dining table with a pivoting top and made entirely with Daquacryl veneer on a particle board.

Cream de la crème

Kiehl’s never ceases to deliver innovative skin care and their latest launch is no exception. Pure Vitality Skin Renewing Cream, is the first of its kind to get you the two most worldrenowned wellness ingredients – New Zealand Manuka Honey and Korean Red Ginseng Root. The moisturizer also helps skin resist loss of hydration while aiding in recovery from existing skin damage, cocooning the skin in a shell of nourishment.

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Et cetera

INDIA THROUGH THE

EYES OF BRESSON

Travel with Style

Rubin Museum of Art is all set to showcase the exhibit titled ‘Henri Cartier-Bresson: India in Full Frame’ opening on April 21. Renowned for his humanist street photography, framed around key instances, Cartier-Bresson first visited India in 1947. Through his photographs, he captured the massive political and cultural turmoil of the country, 69 of which will be featured in the exhibition covering political leaders and events, refugees, the general public as well as the final hours of Mahatma Gandhi along with the events following his assassination.

A City on the Cuffs

Vacheron Constantin is quite literally taking people places with their hand crafted, Caliber 2460 SC, Métiers d’Art Villes Lumières, a Hallmark of Geneva certified timepiece featuring miniature urban landscapes. enameled dials, strewn with gold dust, pearls, platinum and diamonds, artistically portraying, from a bird’s eye view, the nocturnal elegance and magical aura of Geneva, Paris and New York. So this season, let your eyes be dazzled by the city lights.

Venerating Van Gogh Jaeger-LeCoultre pays another tribute to the Dutch post-impressionist painter, Vincent Van Gogh, with its Master Grande Tradition À Répétition Minutes. Equipped with the brand’s Calibre 942, featuring an enamel miniature of the artist’s ageless masterpiece, Starry Night, in a delicate pink gold casing, these 18 covetous pieces are a lifelike rendition of art, heritage and superior craftsmanship woven together.

Resurrecting The Unusual

‘Border Crossing’, opened on February 17 at the National Museum of Women in the Arts, Washington, DC showcases 25 works of Albuquerque based artist, Jami Porter Lara. Reconceptualizing the modern day plastic bottles discarded at borders as a ‘contemporary artifact’, Lara crafted a visually arresting series of hybrid sculptural vessels. Composed of organic materials, using a millenniaold process, they convey the sculptor’s emotionally compelling ideology as she blurs the line separating natural and manufactured.

If you don’t have a good weekend getaway planned to a sunny beach, a lakeside cabin, or a bustling city then you really ought to start. And if you do, then your next priority is bagging the perfect piece of luggage to take with you. As a brand in motion, TUMI continues to redefine the travel experience for Spring 2017 by helping Global Citizens perfect their journeys every day. The full collection includes carry-ons, packing cases and accessories such as wireless headphones and earplugs, too.

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Et cetera

Lovestruck Lane

Timeless Elegance As Official Partner of the International Ski Federation (FIS), Longines has for many years established its expertise in sports timekeeping during the FIS World Cup and the Alpine World Ski Championships. Longines is launching two limited-edition watches, one for women and one for men from the Conquest Classic Collection. This watch, bears the colours of the FIS Alpine World Ski Championships St. Moritz 2017. It is specially designed for all alpine skiing enthusiasts who wish to wear a timelessly elegant watch, while experiencing the excitement of World Championship races.

On a range of handmade coasters, bowls and trinket boxes, crafted by the masters of Srinagar, picturesque landscapes capture the essence of the everlasting love of a runaway bride and her soulmate. Good Earth’s ‘Willow Naqashi’ collection inspired by the ancient Chinese fable, ‘The Willow’ renders Chinoiserie traditions with an Indian touch. Exquisitely crafted with Papier Mache or Naqashi, the pieces bear distinct jewel tones of jade and cinnabar.

A Taste of Future Bored of the typical wine and whiskey tastings? Anyone would be, when it’s usually the same information being thrown at you every time. Glenfiddich has upped the game by offering whisky drinkers the chance to experience its 3D tasting technology, which has already won two marketing awards, including one for Best Use Of Technology In Marketing. The entire experience includes projecting elements of the whisky on to the tasting table while you sip the corresponding dram. It’s a quick visual description of how the whisky is made and the flavours it is characterised by as you watch spicy cinnamon, marzipan, and pieces of ginger being added to the Solera Vat to combine and form the Glenfiddich 15 Year Old.

MYTHOS FUSION SINKS

Franke launches Mythos Fusion Sinks, an exclusive combination of opulence and health. The kitchen can be a critical place in spreading bacteria and so special attention to hygiene is always best. On unprotected material, bacteria can multiply every 20 minutes and so the integrated Sanitized hygiene function in Fragranite sinks helps to keep this area clean and provides the sink with lasting protection. The purity of steel meets the warmth of Fragranite for the very first time, bringing a unique and distinctive sink to life.

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Et cetera

Art in Town In a nine day affair beginning March 18, Hong Kong’s annual street art festival, HKwalls is all set to overwhelm the city with a wave of colour and creativity. With live mural paintings and a print exhibition in the industrial district of Wong Chuk Hang, it aims to facilitate the exchange ideas and techniques amongst local and international artists. Intending to broaden the horizons and bring to the forefront a fresh burst of talent, it offers an open call for all Hong Kong based artists looking for the right platform.

Taming The Untamed If you’ve been looking to revamp your interiors with a statement piece, Room Therapy has rolled out a series that will definitely give you a ‘love at first sight’ moment. Driven by the idea of creating big differences with small accents, the brand’s new collection of delicately structured, ceramic animal figurines including majestic horses and impressive bull heads add the perfect touch of rustic chic to your space.

India Acquires Exclusivity

PROJECT BLEND

Clinique’s new ‘Blend It Yourself Pigment Drops’ is an instant fix for uneven skin. Transform any moisturizer into a BB, CC, or fuller coverage foundation by simply adjusting the number of drops you mix in. These highly concentrated pure pigments are suspended in a super-lightweight, dual phase formula perfect for daytime to date-time and everything in-between.

NIGHT IN THE SHINING ARMOUR

With some of the world’s finest brands in India, Le Mill, in Spring Summer 2017, has announced the launch of Rosie Assoulin and Loewe. Rosie known for her strikingly feminine and sexy designs and Loewe - a luxury brand known for its design aesthetic can now be found at their Colaba store.

Luxury meets natural with this latest launch from Epique. The Intensive Regenerating Night cream comes with a super nourishing and restorative night formula that leaves the skin renewed, deeply nourished and revitalized. The combination of algae extracts, Shea butter extracts, Moringa seed oil, almond oil, vitamin E and C help smoothen the skin’s tone and texture leaving it hydrated.

CHAPTER 2

FASHION

Knitted jumpsuit, Missoni. Laminated sandals, Sergio Rossi.

SCULPTED FORMS We take a trip down “Gessi”, in the Bormida Valley, Italy, which houses original plaster casts of the famous sculptor Giulio Monteverde, whose agenglic works have influenced artists across the world. An homage to the genius and the protagnist of the art of his time.

STYLING & CONCEPT BY ALESSIA CALIENDO PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHRIS MILO

Leather tee and trousers, Todâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s.

Classic mansuit and ruffled shirt, Moschino. Bicolored derbies, Churchâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s.

Pleated block colored dress Luisa Beccaria.

Jean long dress Vivienne Westwood.

Embroidered dress Giovanna Nicolai.

Chenille cocktail dress Bottega Veneta.

Mua Sara del Re @Freelancer Artist Agency. Hair Maurizio Caruso Morreale @HM Battaglia. Styling Assistant: Alessandro Milzoni. Model: Kitti Mudele@TheLab. Location Gipsoteca Giulio Monteverde di Bistagno (AL).

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Cover Story

Top, Stylist’s own. Dress, Fendi. Shoes, Hermès.

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Cover Story

And

TALL She STANDS Private to a fault, lover of nature and nailpaints, she is cinema’s favourite muse. Actor Tabu tells us about her unconventional choices in life.

BY NEENA HARIDAS PHOTOGRAPHY BY HEMANT KHANDELWAL STYLING BY SUREENA DALAL ASSISTANT STYLING BY DHRUV ADITYA DAVÉ

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Cover Story

he thing about Tabu is that you don’t exactly get what you come prepared for with the usual expectations. For one, she has small feet compared to what you’d imagine a girl that tall and she treads softly with little realisation of the star that’s she is. She is not waiting for an entourage to escort her to the hotel room, she just walks in quietly on time in a black kurta-pajama and is ready to try on the looks for the shoot. And no there are no hangers-on to give their wee-bit opinions on what looks good on her and why she should “totally wear that.” Tabassum Fatima Hashmi knows what will work for her and what won’t. She needs no validation. Armed with a smile, she tries on the various clothes laid out for her. She needs no help there either. As far as she is concerned this is a job she must do, and she will do it without complaining about how tight the zippers or complicated the buttons are. “No ya, I am not fitting into this. Do you want me to try it on with something else?” We try more and she plays the mannequin (even as she quips, oh god, I feel like a scarecrow right now, but now tell me what is the next look you have in mind?). “I know my face is your canvas and you are going to use artwork, but would you be just careful as I have an extremely sensitive skin.” That’s when you know Tabu, the actor, is now in character.

“A professional must understand that if you are in the hands of another professional, they will do what is best for you, because it’s a symbiotic relationship.”

Later she says, “A professional must understand that if you are in the hands of another professional, they will do what is best for you, because it’s a symbiotic relationship. If I don’t look or fit into an outfit, why would they want me to squeeze me into something that will eventually make their work look shoddy. You leave some jobs to the ones who know it better than you, that’s all. What is the need to throw a tantrum over it. One must always learn to step back when needed and step in when required.” A philosophy that Tabu seemingly follows in life. “Honestly, it was my sister Farah who wanted to be in the glamour world. I guess it came from the holidays we used to have in Bombay with the Azmi family. I was very happy living with my grandparents in our ancestral home in Hyberabad studying at St Annes School, and after one such holiday Farah said she was moving to Bombay. I followed her soon enough with no intention of getting anywhere near a camera.” As much as she shied away from the camera, it eventually caught up with her. During one such holiday, at the age of 11, she played a cameo along with her aunt Shabana Azmi in Bazaar, a film that created ripples across box office and among critics for its woman-centric subject. “It was just a cameo but the film was so powerful.” With that, the shy, introvert, ‘you-mean-I-have-to make conversation’ Tabu had to come to terms with the fact that this may well be her future. “But then I did not fight what was to be, neither did I chase it. I came back to Hyderabad and completed my education hoping that it would all be forgotten.” she laughs. When she stopped at Bollywood, a few years later, she was no little girl. In a world used to damselsin-distress leaning on the strong shoulders of a macho hero, Tabu seemed a misfit at 5’11 with her swimmer-like body, who could pull the role of police officer with as much punch as her lead star Sunny Deol known for his power-packed “dhai-kilo-ka-haath.”

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Cover Story

Top, Urvashi Kaur. Skirt, Paul Smith. Ring & earrings, Dior.

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Cover Story

Jacket, Fendi. Trousers, Anuj Bhutani. Shoes, MICHAEL Michael Kors. Hair by: Meitei. Makeup by: Donald Simrock@TFM. Location Courtesy: Brook Bond Taj Mahal Tea House, Mumbai.

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Cover Story

“He (Gulzar sahab) loves me so much that he would always take personal interest in my growth. He is more than a mentor.”

hopping flights. That is not for me. But if it works for someone who am I to judge?”

Her first movie as a lead opposite Sanjay Kapoor in Prem (1995 directed by Satish Kaushik and produced by Boney Kapoor), which took eight years to complete, ended being the biggest flop of the year. So, Tabu’s first release as the “official” leading role was in Pehla Pelha Pyaar in 1994 opposite Rishi Kapoor, which went down the drain before you could say flush.

No, she does not write poetry. “I just write random stuff. You know, Gulzar sahab, who I met during the making of Maachis, told me never to stop writing. He has an enormous influence on my life. He loves me so much that he would always take personal interest in my growth. He is more than a mentor. Sometimes, I would go for a shoot and not inform him. He would call up and ask, “Bina Bataye Chali Gayi. Khanna Khaya Ki Nahi. Khyaal Rakhna” (You left without informing? Have you had your food. Take care of yourself. It is only the lucky few who are blessed to meet such people in life. They make you better person for nothing in return.”)

Even tough the films had flopped, the industry noticed Tabu, the only individual who dusted off the ashes of a debut flop to do Vijaypath, opposite Ajay Devgun, that eventually helped the audience and critics realise that here was a girl molded for bigger things. She won the Best Debut Actress Award and those who panned her for being too masculine with two left foot ate crow. Bollywood had literally met its match for its leading men who couldn’t quite stand tall enough beside Tabu without their heeled shoes. More films followed and so did awards including two National Film Award for Best Actress, six Filmfare Awards and a record four Critics Awards for Best Actress followed by the Padma Shri. The rest of her life was self- scripted. She chose and decided, be it movies or otherwise. Won some, lost few. “I don’t believe I have to follow everything that people do. I am not under any pressure to prove myself or stay relevant forever. I know today it is all about who-is wearing-what, selfies, airport stylists, being caught “unawares” by the paparazzi while

With a rather extended family, Tabu, says her hands are full of love and affection. “I have 17 cousins and their children and then of course my sister and her family. Spending time with them is more important to me. I love my private space and if you gave me a chance to live the life I really want to, I would just spend it in nature. I travel, I learn from that. There is so much beauty out there. I write a lot.”

So is there a book hiding between these random words? “Oh I am always being told to write a book. No, these are my private thoughts and experiences. It is like the marriage question. Why are you still single, Tabu? Don’t you want love? Don’t you seek stability? “Who says I don’t have love in my life? Who is more stable than a woman who can take her own decisions! In any case, who says marriage is about love. I am just happy, single, and there is enough and more love in my life. Marriage is just not my game.” As she gets ready for her next outing in the next edition of Golmaal, she says, “We all know it is a movie that will have least expectations. So I don’t really have to get all tense about it. Just play my role and hope for the best.” But that indeed may be the problem: with Tabu expectations come naturally.

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Anatomy of a Bag

“GABRIELLE DE CHANEL”

Out of place when it comes to being worn, but loyal to the ethics of its emblematic House. BY LÉA TRICHTER-PARIENTE PHOTOGRAPH BY MAXIME LEYVASTRE

Homage to Coco: The “Gabrielle de Chanel” bag, dreamt of by Karl Lagerfeld, reunites the futuristic ambiance of the 2017 spring/summer collection and the ingenious spirit of its founder, whose ambition was always to create an aesthetically pleasing and practical bag. A hard exterior and a supple and light body, inspiration for which came from the slung binocular cases that men wore during cross-country riding. Out of sync and innovative: Its particularity? It can be worn in three different ways thanks to its adjustable chain strap: slung over the shoulder, slung across,

it can also be worn as a combination of the two, for a desired nonchalant allure. The chain first passes over one shoulder and then diagonally across the other. Or we put our heads through it, as with a sweater. Everyday use: From the four models, the “Hobo”, in medium (it comes in three sizes), is the most suitable everyday bag, besides that we find the purse, available in two sizes, the backpack and the shopping bag. Their base is in smooth calfskin and the body in destressed calfskin. A version in embroidered tweed was commissioned for the “Métiers d’arts 2016/17 – Paris

Cosmopolite” and a luxury version in calfskin and python hide (in the purse form) finishes the series. For the first time in Chanel, a gilded metal and a silvery metal mix was used to create the chain so that the garnet coloured canvas linings resemble the first bags created by Gabrielle Chanel. The choice of colour is obvious: one’s attitude changes completely depending on the colour, unicoloured (white, black) or bicoloured (black/white, blue/black, beige/black) “Gabrielle de Chanel” bag in destressed calfskin, Chanel, € 2,980. Top and Skirt, Chanel. www.chanel.com

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Fashion

J’adior EXCLUSIVE

We take you behind the runway where models are just a few minutes away to walk in the collection designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri, the first woman to hold the creative reins at Dior.

PRODUCTION & DIRECTION BY BUREAU BETAK PHOTOGRAPHY BY MORGAN O’DONOVAN

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Fashion

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Fashion

Casting by: Michelle Lee Casting Makeup by: Peter Philips for Dior Hair by: Guido Palau Shoes by: Christian Dior

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Art

When art imitates life and fashion embraces art, a strange but sometimes magnificent fusion is born. We take a close look at our favourite times fashion became a blank canvas for artistic magic to unfold. BY ELENI PAPAIOANNOU

RUNWAY ARTIFEX

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Art

1. Maison Margiela Artisanal Collection. 2. YSL Fall Mondrian Collection. 3. Lobster Telephone by Salvador Dalí.

Probably the most re-posted look from the 2017 fashion week in Paris was at the Maison Margiela Artisanal show, where an all white trench coat by John Galliano was adorned by a ghostly portrait made of tulle, by multi-disciplinary artist Benjamin Shine. The dark mesh material that continues to wrap the model’s silhouette, even beyond the limits of the garment, creates a sculpture that apparently took more than 300 hours to make. Priceless. Who can put a price on art, you might say, especially when it turns into an everyday piece you can actually live in. The collaboration between the artist, who seems to be very hot at the moment, and Galliano, the once bad boy that has withdrawn to his work, avoiding public attention, after his drunk rant in 2011 cost him his job at Dior, has brought back to the spotlight one of the favorite themes of fashion writers: The fusion between art and fashion. Looking back, one must start by paying tribute to Elsa Schiaparelli, the woman who lived in both worlds, creating dresses that were sometimes un-wearable, due to their strong artistic vision. However, there was a moment when she moved beyond her inspiration, the artist Salvador Dalí allowed one of her dresses to become the canvas for his art. The Lobster Dress they co-created in 1937 is a simple, white dress with a giant lobster, painted by Dalí, as homage to his 1934 creation “New York Dream-Man Finds Lobster in Place of Phone.” Around the same time, another artist who crossed over to commercial fashion was the Dutch painter Piet Mondrian. His highly recognizable squares and lines featuring

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Art

1. Gianni Versace‘s 1991 Pop Art Collection. 2. Hermès The Winner is. 3. Alexander McQueen x Damien Hirst.

white backgrounds, grids of thick black lines and blocks of colours, created a neoplastic style influenced by cubism. The fashion world did not remain unimpressed. In the 1930’s, Hermès designer Lola Prusac looked to his famous works for inspiration, producing a range of luggage and bags with square inlays of red, yellow and blue leather. Even after he passed away, in 1944, Mondrian and his work continued to influence fashion. At the very heart of the mod fashion revolution, in 1965, Yves Saint Laurent saw huge success with his “Fall Mondrian Collection”. The six A-line cocktail dresses he designed, created the best form of display for Mondrian’s work. They were made up of many separate pieces of wool jersey and were hand-assembled to hide obvious seaming, creating one of the most iconic dresses in the history of fashion. It was around that time when a young man by the name of Andy Warhol had started out in fashion, creating illustrations for glossy magazines and designing for advertisements of products such as Elsa Schiaparelli’s gloves. In a lovely twist of fate, his rightful place in fashion came posthumously, with Gianni Versace‘s 1991 Pop Art collection that included a jewel-encrusted version of the artist’s iconic Marilyn Monroe prints. TRUE TO FORM Fast-forwarding to today, one of the best moments when art and fashion joined in aesthetic matrimony was in 2013. Three years after the passing of Alexander McQueen, one of the darkest minds in the history of

fashion, the house’s team decided to create an exclusive collaboration with another dark and peculiar mind, the artist Damien Hirst. Ethereal and haunting, McQueen took inspiration from Hirst’s Entomology series, with butterflies, spiders and other insects crawling across his collection of 30 chiffon scarfs, forming geometric patterns across their fabric. Very close to McQueen’s vision, two ridiculously talented sisters, Kate and Laura Mulleavy, of Rodarte took a leap of faith in each other when, only a year before the McQueen –Hirst merge, they touched the work of a genius. Their 2012 collection was a study on Vincent Van Gogh, whether by incorporating subtle references to the impressionist painter’s thick brush strokes within their light fabrics and color palette, or boldly displaying their tribute to Van Gogh’s Sunflowers in their iconic flower print chiffon dress. In a similar manner, one cannot forget Zac Posen’s 2010 Autumn/Winter collection, where he used textiles painted by Rosson Crow. The enigmatic American painter has been quoted as saying in an interview: “I got a call from a stylist friend, a boy I hadn’t talked to in years”. “He said, ‘My boyfriend wants to work with you.’ I said, ‘Who are you dating now?” And he said, ‘Zac Posen.’ I went, ‘Oh my God. I’d love to!” And sometimes, apparently, it is just as easy as saying “yes.” For some fashion houses being in a tight knit relationship with art is not just a temporary fling of inspiration but a lifetime commitment. Hermès uses their scarves as silk squares of artistic expression, housing incredible works of art that become collector’s items. Their latest collaboration came in the form

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Art

4. Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2013. 5. Rodarte Spring Summer 2017. 6. Zac Posen Fall 2010. 7. Elsa Schiaparelli’s Lobster Dress.

of a question, “And the winner is?”. In 2016, 315 Hermès boutiques around the world featured a scarf made by Elias Kafouros, their first ever men’s scarf since the inception of the House in 1937. Kafouros’ design is a tribute to the historic House itself, a gesture of acknowledgement to their life-long dedication in promoting the arts. Sometimes art is so powerful that it takes up a lot more space than a dress or a scarf…Taking inspiration to the next level, Marc Jacobs embraced conceptual artist Daniel Buren’s vision to create their unforgettable 2013 Louis Vuitton collaboration, a kaleidoscope of squares and bright yellows together with checkered blacks that didn’t just stay on the clothes but also adorned the whole runway he staged at the Louvre, causing a fashion frenzy. Apparently having a knack for art, Marc Jacobs had already discovered how well art can work for fashion, even back in 2003, when he invited Japanese contemporary artist Takashi Murakami to work on a, nowfamous, range of handbags for Louis Vuitton which re-invented the company’s signature LV emblem. According to the fashion designer, in a quote that ideally summarizes what art and fashion mean to each other, “this has been, and continues to be, a monumental marriage of art and commerce. The ultimate cross-over - one for both fashion, and art history books.”

ARM CANDY

A riot of colours and textures. Clutch on to your bag and put your fancy foot forward. PHOTOGRAPHY BY: VAISHNAV PRAVEEN@THE HOUSE OF PIXELS STYLIST: ABHISHEK P CHATTERJEE

This Page: Top, Roberto Cavalli@ Infinite Luxury Brands. Pants, Salvatore Ferragamo. Belt, Salvatore Ferragamo. Bag, Michael Kors. Scarf, Salvatore Ferragamo.

Opposite Page: Dress, Nikhil Thumpi. Bag, Coach.

Emerald green suit, Huemn. Satin shirt, Huemn. Clutch, Furla. Brooch, Zoya TATA Product. Ring, Zoya TATA Product.

Dress, Salvatore Ferragamo. Shoes, Olgana Paris. Bag, Furla.

Jumpsuit, Paul Smith. Bag, Coach. Glove, Huemn.

Shirt, Dhruv Kapoor. Dress, Dhruv Kapoor. Bag, Salvatore Ferragamo. Ring, Zoya TATA Product.

Trench dress, Burberry. Clutch, Judith Leiber. Rose Shaped Diamond Handcuff, Zoya TATA Product. Fishnet stockings, Hunkemรถller. Ankle Band, Hunkemรถller. Shoes , Salvatore Ferragamo.

Jacket, Dhruv Kapoor. Palazzo, Pankaj & Nidhi. Bag, Salvatore Ferragamo. Feather inspired diamond handcuff, Zoya TATA Product. Earrings, Zoya TATA Product. Hair and makeup by: Kamaldeep. Models: Ravyanshi@Anima Creatives. Francesca@Anima Creatives. Styling Assistant: Ankit Vengurlekar@Pearl Academy, Mumbai.

L’Officiel

Fashion

BACKDROP Maje is celebrating the onset of spring with a denim capsule collection off the beaten track, spearheaded by its founder, Judith Milgrom. Graphic, aerial and sophisticated, the cult fabric of the ’90s offers it an almost high fashion appearance. A conversation surrounding the jean. BY MATHILDE BERTHIER

You’re starting spring with an entirely denim collection. Was that a challenge or obvious? The idea had been turning in my head for a while. With Maje, we have always manipulated denim, without ever having pushed it into a corner. I wanted to make the most of this mini collection to work with denim, a ready to wear material, and have it flirt with high fashion. Exploring textures, patchwork and finishing touches was a must. This capsule is the unison of a rustic material and modern forms. What do you like about denim? Its light and neutrality. It has a beautiful

appearance while being able to work everywhere. So why dress completely in black? It is an ideal material to pass from winter to spring: jeans with a rolled neck? That works. A denim skirt with woollen collars? That works. A denim blouse under a coat? That works too. Originally, in the 1850s, denim was a rustic material reserved only for men. Today everyone wears it, all the time. Since its debut in women’s closets it has broken all the rules, it has revived classic silhouettes. Women wore oversized jeans, they would nick denim shirts off

of their partners. The jean brought about a difference, even in the ’30s. To leave nothing out, it lives to the rhythm of its washes and its use. It’s a bit like leather, we want to keep it because it only gets better with time. You gamble with a flare, a shape inherited from the ’70s. After ruling for ten years has the slim fit become a has been? The slim fit is a basic, it allows the wearer to be more daring with their choice of top or coat. Today, women don’t buy them as much but they don’t want to get rid of them either. The slim has become more of a habit. It’s the ‘501’ of 2017.

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Fashion

We often talk of the ’90s as the golden age for jeans. It is true that I was inspired by the denim look of Vanessa Paradis and the super models of the ’90s, who would never step out without their ‘mom’ jeans. I wanted to bring that out. With denim, we can attempt forms that no one has ever seen. I would have liked to go even further but one makes a choice. Are you thinking of a follow up? It was so pleasurable and it was so frustrating to decide between certain designs that I thought numbering this capsule would be best so that I could do another. How are you planning to accessorise this collection? Accessorising must stay at a minimum. If we have the choice of wearing flats, then the dress or the overalls would be sublime with ballerinas or sneakers. I also enjoy the idea of making these pieces a bit sophisticated with a pair of beautiful sandals. Jeans are about to crossover, do you approve? Being relevant to all is now the essence of denim: everyone can wear a pair of jeans and we can do everything in them.

Photos Lionel Gasperini, DR

Do you remember your first pair? When I was a teenager, we had a choice between Levi’s, Lee and Wrangler. It was terrible! They didn’t suit me at all, I didn’t have a body for jeans. My first pair was an oversized one which I myself had altered, customized, eliminated, cut. When my grandmother saw me she ordered my mother to tell her why I was wearing torn jeans! The first time I got onto the metro with them everyone was staring at me, I was happy in my skin, I felt different. Do you believe in the ideal jeans? There is a perfect pair for every woman. We chose it because it suits us, because it is comfortable, because it is seductive. For this capsule I looked for exclusivity. I wanted the client to say, “I have ten pairs in my closet but this one here I do not.” With our extravagant pant-skirt, we are far from gender norms, we take the jeans beyond.

Judith Milgrom

In “The Convergence of Consciousness” Pierre Rabhi talks of the jean as being part of a ‘uniform’. What do you think of that? He talks of a ‘uniform’ because he would like the world to be more minimalistic, and I admire him for that. There is a paradox between the brand that I have founded and what I wish to offer to women. I would love for his point of view to be adopted one day, but in a pacifist manner, not brutal. The jean is a part of freedom. It is important for diversity not creativity for the sake of creativity. More than a uniform I’d talk of it as being indispensable.

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Fashion

WHAT’S YOUR

PHOTOGRAPHS BY LAETITIA HOTTE

STYLING BY SHINO ITOI

TONE TONIGHT?

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Fashion

89 Hessian cotton coat, Marni. Leather python hide boots, Louis Vuitton.

Dress in pleated red leather, Valentino. Lurex top, Trussardi. Nylon stockings, Calzedonia, Leather python hide boots, Louis Vuitton.

Jacket in silk satin, Emporio Armani.

Jacket in velour suede, Wanda Nylon. Silk body, Nina Ricci. Nylon Stockings, Calzedonia. Calfskin velour shoes, Jimmy Choo.

Cotton and silk outfit, Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood. Jersey dress, MSGM. Vinyl boots, CourrĂ¨ges.

Jacquard weave shirt-dress with cut thread in cotton and silk, Hermès. Silk skirt, Gauchère. Goatskin mules, Céline.

Leather pants, Zadig & Voltaire. Buckskin mules, Mansur Gavriel.

Model: Marina Nery@Elite. Makeup by: Anthony Preel. Hair by: SĂŠbastien Le Corroller. Assistant photographer: SĂŠbastien Michelini. Numeric operator: Maxime Verret. Assistant stylist: Gabriela Cambero.

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How to Wear

MONOPLAY Pair up all the tints and shades of a colour and see yourself creating a statement this spring. BY SUREENA DALAL

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1. Pure white brass and enamel earrings, Stella McCartney. `17,920. 2. Off white shirt dress with self-tie details, Jacquemus. `31,260. 3. Crystal band loafers, Christopher Kane. `53,390.

1. Aloha gold-plated, straw and quartz necklace@Net-aPorter, Rosantica. `35,220. 2. CrĂŞpe dress, Balenciaga. `86,770. 3. Valentino Garavani Rockstud sandals, Valentino. `49,110. 4. Red leather bag embroidered with small mirrors, Moschino. `53,940.

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How to Wear

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1. 18K staggered baguette diamond studs, Suzanne Kalan `73,530. 2. Tropicale lattice-paneled printed silk-chiffon dress, Zimmermann. `93,310. 3. Intrecciato leather bucket bag, Bottega Veneta.`1,34,850. 4. Capri leather slippers, The Row.`74,740.

1. 18 K yellow gold and peridot stud earrings@Net-a-Porter. Pippa Small. `90,560. 2 . Olive green tunic dress with belt. Loewe. Price on request. 3. Mini hex bucket bag. Proenza Schouler.`72,353. 4. Hardy loafer, Pierre Hardy.`38, 900.

ALL PRICES MENTIONED ARE APPROXIMATE. THE PRICES MAY OR MAY NOT INCLUDE TAXES.

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How to Wear

1. Gabriel oxidized silver-plated Swarovski crystal earrings, Dannijo.`34,060. 2. Star Repeat midi dress, Self Portrait. `26,690. 3. The Ginny medium bag, Salvatore Ferragamo. `84,000. 4. Christy Flat suede ballerinas, Aquazzura. `28,740.

1. The Vee cotton T-shirt, Rag & Bone `5,270. 2. Obi track pants, 81 Hours. `13,910. 3. Embellished canvas gym bag, Vanessa Bruno. `11,590. 4. Super Star distressed leather-paneled mesh sneakers, Golden Goose Deluxe Brand. `30,390.

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How to Wear

1. Printed cotton T-shirt, Saint Laurent. `20,370. 2. Yéyé suede skirt, Stoules. `47,425. 3. Printed textured-leather wallet, Dolce & Gabbana. `47,890. 4. Ollie sneakers, Miu Miu. Price on request.

1. Bloom large studs, Fernando Jorge. `1,08,870. 2. Gabriela satin dress, Attico. `68,150. 3. Flamingo silver-tone crystal brooch, Marc Jacobs. `17,300. 4. Romy mirrored-leather pumps, Jimmy Choo. `50,560.

ALL PRICES MENTIONED ARE APPROXIMATE. THE PRICES MAY OR MAY NOT INCLUDE TAXES.

Fashion

METTLE OF ME TAL

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY THERESA MARX

STYLING BY VANESSA BELLUGEON

Shirt and trouser in silk Lurex, Gucci. Gilded metal earrings, Dsquared2.

Woollen jacket, Dior. Suit without sleeves, re-embroidered with sequin, Elie Saab. Premium jewellery earrings in white gold and diamonds, Messika. Leather mules with metallic heels, CĂŠline. Minaudiere in plexiglass, Weill.

Dress draped from gilded lame and â&#x20AC;&#x153;Loulouâ&#x20AC;? pompom earrings in brass and viscose, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. Nylon stockings, Calzedonia.

Metallic cotton shirt, Kenzo. Silk muslin and ostrich feather skirt, Prada. Embroidered nylon stockings, Calzedonia. Leather mules with metallic heels, CĂŠline.

Right: “Hotlips” ring in lacquered gold and scintillating silver, Solange Azagury-Partridge. Left: Ring in gilded metal and Plexiglass, Elie Saab. Sac “Dionysus” bag in “GG Suprême” canvas and embroidered python hide, Gucci. Embroidered nylon stockings, Calzedonia. Leather and rhinestone sandals, Kenzo.

Sequinned jacket, Redemption. Tulle top covered in rhinestones, Giorgio Armani. Bra in silk brocade, Fendi. Polyester trousers, Weill. Premium jewellery earrings in white gold and diamonds, Messika. Gold plated brass ring, Anissa Kermiche.

Model: Suzanne Knipper at Elite Hairstylist: Simone Prusso Make-up: Ai Cho Assistants Photographers: Kevin MacCarthy et RĂŠmi Procureur Assistant stylist : RĂŠmi Meunier

L’Officiel

Art

THERE’S AN ARTIST AROUND YOUR NECK! Who says expensive artwork is only for the collectors? Meesha Khanna and her friends have found a way to make it a part of your wardrobe. BY SUREENA DALAL

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L’Officiel The story when three friends, Meesha Khanna from India, Magali Charruyer and Catherine Gouin from France, decided to marry their love for art and passion for fashion. The idea was to merge two cultures with their incredible histories and rich artistic traditions, which gave birth to the Indo-French brand Meesha in 2011, a collection of luxury scarves in ultra fine merino wool, cashmere, silk and cotton. “Our passion lies is our prints, the heart and soul of Meesha Khanna. The collection made its debut at Paris Fashion Week (Fall/Winter 2012) and continues to be showcased in the city that takes its scarves rather seriously. Six years later ‘Meesha’ spread its wings over 80 stores globally, including Bloomingdales, New York, Los Angeles, Chicago; Saks Fifth Avenue Almaty, Astana; Isetan, Tokyo. “What started as an exploration and journey into the heart of India and France has today come to encapsulate thoughts, feelings and ideas about art, culture, travel and

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people. Each scarf, to us, is a canvas with a story to tell. Each print is designed with the intention of creating a unique identity,” says Meesha about the journey. The brand took a fresh turn last year with youngest member Trisha Khanna joining the team as she tapped a younger, hipper audience (or rather, the hash-tag generation). “As a company we wanted to be able to relate to this age group as well. We felt that we wanted Meesha to be that brand that is a wardrobe staple. When you think of a scarf or shawl you don’t think of a one-time purchase but an heirloom. It’s a collection you want to see every season when it does something new, you want to collect each piece, like you would the work of an artist you love. To us a scarf makes a statement about who you are, what you love and who you want to be,” says Trisha. The Spring/Summer 2017 collection takes their love of art literally. “The artists who inspired this collection are people whose work influence us greatly. Their sense of perspective, colour and form was our inspiration.” Says Meesha.

1. Meesha Khanna and Trisha Khanna . 2. Meesha SS17- Coco. 3. Meesha SS17- Vassily.

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The scarves this season explore various themes. The ‘collage’ format is one of them. Georges Braque and Pablo Picasso first coined the term collage in the beginning of the 20th century when collage became a distinctive part of modern art. The piece ‘Coco’ pays tribute to this tradition that continues to this day. ‘Samo’ is a graffiti inspired piece; the graffiti movement was first associated with artist Jean-Michel Basquiat and permeates both art and fashion. “Its influence on our work has been visible every season. ‘Chandini’ takes you to the by-lanes of Chandini Chowk, for us that is Indian street art in its truest form,” says Trisha, adding, “we turned to Tom Wesselman and the pop art movement for our piece ‘Nawab’. Mughal is his look but very dapper in his pocket square avatar for the metrosexual man, Jackson Pollock and his signature style were the idea behind ‘Jackson’. The play of colour and composition are all inspired by him and his art.

Vassily Kandinsky, the noted Russian painter and art theorist, credited for painting one of the first pure abstract works was the inspiration for ‘Vassily’. Valentin de Boulogne sometimes referred to as Le Valentin, was a French painter known for his dramatic illumination style of painting or the Tenebrist style. He was the inspiration for the ‘Black Panther’ and ‘Lion’ where the brand tried to capture the play of light. Meesha would not be complete without its Indian influence. “For Spring/Summer 2017, we looked at ‘Banjara’ art. The banjars or nomadic tribes gave to India the art of tattooing, rangoli, embroidery in addition to folk dance and music. The pieces ‘Attay’ and ‘Churi’ are our interpretations of their work and the vibrance and colours of their culture,” says Meesha. 5 1. Meesha SS17 - Lion. 2. Meesha- SS17-Samo. 3. Meesha- SS17- Banjara. 4. Meesha-SS17- Chandni - Merinos. 5. Meesha-SS’17- Nawab-Pocket Square Silk.

Trisha adds, “This collection was also a turning point for us because it took us to our roots. We traveled to the interiors of West Bengal to develop fabrics like jamdani and handloom cotton and cotton silk. We worked with handloom weavers, in their homes, to create pieces that make us, in textile craft, so proud.” Who says scarves are your winter gear. Next time you might just have dear old Vassily warming you up.

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Accessory

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TRICKS OF THE SHADE Venture out of your comfort zone and try a pair of funky, tricked-out geometric sunglasses.

Black ‘Exclusive Collection’ squared sunglasses, Prada. ` 29,230

Dark Turtle, Cutler and Gross. ` 33,600

Edge glasses in acetate and metal, Marni. ` 28,560

Emmanuel gold w crazy tort, Karen Walker. ` 18,480

Exclusive ‘Rihanna’ sunglasses, Dior. ` 56,450

Eyeline pink gold metal sunglasses, Fendi. ` 33,940

Houndstooth oversized frame sunglasses, Dolce & Gabbana. ` 41,130

Sunglasses metal, Giorgio Armani. ` 18,020

Sunglasses, Moschino. ` 13,440

ALL PRICES MENTIONED ARE APPROXIMATE. THE PRICES MAY OR MAY NOT INCLUDE TAXES.

BY BHAVYA GARKEMUKHU

BLUE BAYOU

Submerge yourself in the depths of the ocean as we dive deeper into the sheer trends of this scorching summer.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY PING WANG PRODUCED BY ROXIE HSIEH STYLING BY TIFFANI WILLIAMS

Dress, Bibhu Mohapatra. Shoe, Pierre Hardy. Earrings, Masaaki Takahashi with Chrysmela backs. Rings, Mimi Prober.

This Page: Coat, Daniel Silverstain. Dress, Bibhu Mohapatra.

Opposite Page: Dress, Tadashi. Corset, Breelayne. Earring, (diamond drop earring) Masaaki. Takahashi, (silver) Meiyi Yang with Chrysmela backs.

This Page: Romper, Christian Siriano. Shoe, Pierre Hardy. Ring in the Glass Ball, Meiyi Yang.

Opposite Page: Dress, Christian Siriano. Harness, Bibhu Mohapatra. Earrings, Dolce & Gabbana.

This Page: Dress, Tadashi Shoji. Jacket, Dolce & Gabbana. Shoes, Christian Dior. Necklace, Mimi Prober.

Opposite Page: Dress, Christian Dior. Earrings, Victoria Hayes. Shoes, Dolce & Gabbana. Ring, Meiyi Yang.

Set Designer: Qieer Wang (qieerwang.com) Stylist Assistant: Michael Blaine Stylist Coordinator: Marcus Elliott Makeup by: Takashi Ashizawa Hair by: Yumiko Sensui. Manicurist: Akane Awaji. Photo Assistant: Shaoyi Zhang. Model: Alyona Subbotina @ Trump Model Management.

L’Officiel

Fashion

RAMPANT BEAUTY We take you behind the runway struts as we show you the top beauty looks from Lakmé Fashion Week. Choose your vibe and paint the town red. COMPILED BY DHRUV ADITYA DAVÉ PHOTOGRAPHS BY SAGAR AHUJA

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FALGUNI AND SHANE PEACOCK Take major style inspiration from this beauty of the dark. Keep those eyes smoky and those lips dark. Send chills down everyone’s spine this hot summer.

TARUN TAHILIANI The winged eyeliner makes a swift return thanks to Tarun Tahiliani. Keeping everything else to minimal and bare, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll never go wrong. Add floral elements to your braids for au naturale accessorising.

SAVIO JON Ready for that Mediteranean cruise? Savioâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s take on the braided hair with nude makeup keeps you looking fresh and chic while your mane stays in control.

AM.IT Tie your hair tightly into a pony and wrap it with a gold wire. Add to that a sliver of gold right above the eyebrows and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got yourself a stellar celebration look! Did someone say jewellery is boring?

LABEL RITU KUMAR How to reinvent the red lip? Turn to Label Ritu Kumar to show you how. A layer of glitter over the shade and let your lips do all the talking.

KOTWARA Keeping it minimal with that punch of sparkle was Kotwara with starry sequins over the eyelids. Your way to shine bright like a diamond.

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Talk Point

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LOVE TRUMPS HATE

As protests break out across the world against American President Donald Trump for his political views, the fashion industry has begun to raise its voice. UK-based beauty brand Illamasqua’s has announced that they will “never knowingly sell their products to the those who support his values.” BY MERIAM AHARI

Left: People out to protest Donald Trump’s win. Right: The Anti-Fascism Pledge, Illamasqua .

One of the biggest trends we saw at NYFW was the fashion industry’s need to voice their opinion on America’s current administration. Indonesian designer Anniesa Hasibuan casted immigrant (or immigrant-born) models wearing hijabs. LRS Studio designer Raul Solis, sent his models down the runway wearing underwear with slogans like “F*** Your Wall” written on them. Founders of the global Women’s March movement opened Mara Hoffman’s show with a recitation of their mission statement. The list goes on. The need for brands to publicly condemn President Trump’s policies has seeped into the beauty industry as well. UK-based makeup brand Illamasqua created quite a stir by releasing an “AntiFascism Pledge” on their website, stating that the brand will never “knowingly sell our products to people who support President Trump’s values.” What values specifically? Basically anything that “discriminates against race, colour, nationality, ethnicity, gender, age, disability, sexual orientation or religion.” The brand goes on to proclaim they “are horrified by President Trump’s actions to date. We refuse to remain silent while extreme right-wing populism

gains momentum.” The brand condemns Trump’s methods so much so, that in order to purchase Illamasqua products, one must first “sign” their pledge to oppose Trump and his policies that challenge these fundamental morals. Now, there is no actual step throughout the purchasing process in which the buyer must click to confirm their compliance with the “Illamasqua Anti-Fascism Pledge.” Instead, this metaphorical agreement intends to make the brand’s political stance be heard loud and clear— if you voted for Trump, they don’t want

Powder eyeshadow in Jubilance Pale Pink Shimmer, Illamasqua.

your business. “We know we can’t stop anyone buying our products. But we also know that no matter how hard some people work to make themselves beautiful on the outside, make-up can never hide the ugliness inside. So please, if you don’t agree with the above DON’T BUY US.” Of course, no political stance comes without its critics. Since there is nothing to prevent a buyer from purchasing Illamasqua’s Hydra Veil or Gel Sculpt if they do in fact agree with Trump’s immigration policies, many have speculated whether this pledge without reinforcement is just a strategic marketing move from yet another brand jumping on the political bandwagon to publicly challenge Trump. On Twitter, @RyeHolly tweeted, “@Illamasqua You just gained a new customer to replace one whose heart is filled with hate.” Illasmasqua founder Julian Kynaston’s response to those who found the brand’s strong statement hypocritical for discriminating against people’s political views: “Extreme right-wing views extend beyond day-to-day politics. Chants of ‘Build that wall’ are not political. They are fanatical.”

L’Officiel

Jewellery

TIME FOR SECRETS

At the intersection of watch making and premium ‘joaillerie’, the jewels that dissimilate and tell time continue to exert their irresistible seduction. BY HERVÉ DEWINTRE

Last January, in Paris and Geneva, at the time of the presentations of high end jewellery and during the Salon International de Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva, the largest houses proved their fondness for the venerable figure of style, the secret watch, making it the star of their new collection. It must be said that these incredible objects of fantasy, in vogue during the ’30s, admirably lend themselves to the demonstration of this most incredible craftsmanship, to the service of allure, to a specific body language and emotion. Inspired by the beauty of the seas Just as dance, chance or fashion, the secret watches are a dear tradition at Van Cleef & Arpels. This year, it is to be the focal point of the new collection of premium watchmaking unveiled by the French house at the SIHH. The dials of these unique pieces were unveiled under complete discretion, here on the top of a bracelet, inspired by the beauty

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Jewellery of the seas, at the heart of creation that reproduces the fluidity of a ribbon delicately enveloping the wrist. The masterpiece of this collection, a long chain develops with links of onyx towards a most precious casing: a box ornate with onyx, mother of pearl and a kite in a mysterious setting. Slight pressure on the head allows the ruby to lower the lid; a mirror then reveals itself. This mirror is indispensable because the dial of this watch doesn’t show itself directly, it is visible only through an exciting play of reflections. The prestigious manufacturers make 4 it possible for us to witness it.

Always at the SIHH, Audemars Piguet made a splash with a watch rightfully baptised “Outrage”. A spectacular creation: it starts with a strap in white gold on which rise pointy peaks, cones of different heights, all covered with diamonds placed there by the snow setting technic. These stalactites are inspired by pine forests with snowcapped mountains that we can marvel at in the heart of the Vallée de Joux. The area has not been chosen at random, since it is in the Swiss Jura massive, nicknamed ‘Waldensian Siberia’, that rises above the construction of Brassus. A bucolic punk of sorts. A guipure face of diamonds perforated by the sun Place Vendôme, the large houses seem to have given the word, to bring to light their own personal interpretation of the secret watch. Boucheron is inspired, to make the watch vibrate, in the literal sense of the word, by a triumphant nature, proud and unbroken. That sentiment is passionately incarnated in the motif of a diamond ivy on white gold, which, at the heart of a superb cuff, wraps itself around the wrist to better conceal a hidden dial. Chopard also gives birth to an astonishing secret watch which seems to weave itself around a lace jewellery, like a diamond guipure perforated by the sun. Chanel jewellery pays homage to Coco’s ‘Années folles’, during which time the mythical creator exercised millinery, transforming, as light as a

fabric animated by the sea breeze of Deauville, waves of diamonds on an abundant but graceful band, and lies the secret watch precious yet nonchalant. Victoire de Castellane, as for her, composes an ode to opal – her favourite stone – making it shine at the centre of the new ‘haute joaillerie’ collection by Dior. We aren’t talking about secret watches but bracelets that tell time. Eight bracelets to be more precise, Christian Dior’s lucky number. And in the end, Giampiero Bodino reaffirms his status of maestro with his presentation, during fashion week, of three creations, extraordinary from every point of view: bracelets of ‘haute joaillerie’ that are hidden beneath a shell of precious stones of the secret watches, to remind us, the master says,” that time is, for us, the most precious.” Rather pointless now to specify how unique these three watches are, that they will be sold to three connoisseurs and will 5 never be produced again. 6

Photos Chanel Joaillerie, DR

1 — ‘Gabrielle Chanel’ ring in white gold set with a pear-shaped diamond of 3.03 carats, a circular diamond of 0.35 carats and 122 brilliant cut diamonds, Chanel. ‘Gabrielle Chanel’ secret watch in white gold set with three circular diamonds and 629 brilliant cut diamonds, Chanel. 2 — ‘Cerf Volant’ ribbon watch in white gold, circular diamonds, asscher and baguette cut, circular rubies of a baguette cut and head with black, round spinels, circular onyx, white pearls: encased in white gold, red gold, circular diamonds, squared and baguette cut, cut rubies and a head of onyx, white and grey mother of pearl; a unique piece, Van Cleef & Arpels.

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3 — ‘Exquise Opale’ watch in white gold, platinum, diamonds, black opals, emeralds, turquoises, sapphires, Paraiba tourmalines, Dior ‘haute joaillerie’.

4 — ‘Lierre de Lumière’ watch, ‘haute joaillerie’ cuff in white gold, brilliant cut diamonds, Boucheron. 5 — One of the three secret watches presented at the Ritz, on the 26th of last January: ‘Rosa del Venti Emeraude’, Emerald of Zambia, rubies, emeralds, sapphires, diamonds and white gold, Giampiero Bodino. 6— ‘Outrage’ secret watch in white gold, 9,923 brilliant cut diamonds, 354 baguette cut diamonds, Audemars Piguet. 7 — ‘Fairmined’ secret watch in white gold, two D flawless diamonds pear-shaped in brilliant cut, pear-shaped diamonds in brilliant cut. Premium watch making movement L.U.C 96.17-L, platinum micro-rotor, set in diamonds, Chopard.

L’Officiel

Fashion

NEEDLES MADE NEEDLESS

Design : Shard Concept : When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life; for there is in London all that life can afford.

Bid farewell to the permanence and pain you’ve been associating with getting inked. An imaginative range of temporary tattoos by Inkbox is the answer to all your tattoo woes. BY NATASHA SRIVASTAVA

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to the epidermis instead of the dermis and therefore fades gradually with biological regeneration and natural exfoliation of the skin.

Design : Quab Concept : The measure of who we are is what we do with what we have.

Design : Memento Mori Concept : The life of the dead is placed in the memory of the living.

Completely dissociating themselves from conventional painful needles and time consuming manual labour, all Inkbox tattoos come equipped with an application kit with a simple five step process that does the job in 15 minutes. (Yes, unbelievable but delightfully true). All you need to do is moisten the towelette from the kit and use it to firmly press the tattoo stencil on the skin. It takes upto 12-24 hours to darken and develop. And voila! You have a tattoo that is as good as true. So for instance, should you change your political views or meet a new special someone, you’ll be just as ready for the next tattoo.

Design : Precioso Concept : A kiss is a lovely trick designed by nature to stop speech when words become superfluous.

A tattoo isn’t just fashion or art, it is a style statement that encompasses self-expression. From flaunting their rebellious side to proudly carrying a significant memory, people often reveal their real shades and deepest emotions, through tattoos. Which is why getting a tattoo is impulsive for some (especially those who are newly in love) and sensitive to many who see it as a statement for their life. Perhaps, the Power Rangers emblem we wanted to tattoo on our ankles when we were eight, would spark regret for some or a reminiscent reminder of the easier days, as they grow older. As we mature, so do our ideals, ideas and idols. Life in the time of Now calls for a medium of selfexpression that is quick to adapt to our ever-changing whims. Tattoo artists Braden and Tyler Handley set out to answer the question. “Why isn’t there an option for wearing a true

Design : Uvito Concept : If everyone is moving forward together, then success takes care of itself.

“Tattoos in themselves are a visual language. They transcend all that divides us. We wanted to embody this cultural transcendence,” says Tyler. Itching to ink your present Facebook status? Go right ahead. Because, when your status changes, your tattoo can too.

temporary tattoo – one that gave you the look and feel of a traditional one, without the everlasting commitment that comes with it?” And thus, Inkbox was born. The duo simplified the process of getting inked to an extent that one can now live in the present, proudly express their ideologies and all that without the fear of regret. Bonus? It is painless! Whoever said ‘no pain no gain’ may well turn in their grave with that permanent tattoo on their unmentionables. Taking cue from the indigenous tribes from the wilderness of Panama, who use Genipapo or Huito, extracted from fruit pulp to ink their skin who have been using this technique for thousands of years. The Inkbox team modified their technique and created the patented Inkbox formula which is completely organic. This formula is absorbed by the top layer of the skin and reacts with organic compounds to darken the skin colour. Unlike permanent tattoos, it adheres

Design : Shambolic Concept : Life is chaotic, a jumble of accidents, ambitions, misconceptions, bold intentions, lazy happenstances and unintended consequences, yet there are connections that illuminate our world, revealing its endless mystery and wonder.

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WHAT’S YOUR ANGLE? Design meets precision, in an eccentric play of geometry. Consider this your summer class in math.

3D Earring in yellow gold, Shihara. ` 70,650

Back to school bracelet, Eshvi. ` 14,725

Abstract Shaped Earring, Stella McCartney. ` 27,635

Brass and plexiglass Seven earring, Sylvio Giardina. ` 46,950

Erin earring, Contour Studio. ` 15,300

Bianca long necklace, Aurélie Bidermann. ` 42,280

Rigore Inverted Necklace, Avril8790. ` 37,000

Robin cuff, Uribe. ` 29,500

Facet Spike Ring, Monies. ` 6,410

Etro SS17 RTW.

ALL PRICES MENTIONED ARE APPROXIMATE. THE PRICES MAY OR MAY NOT INCLUDE TAXES.

BY NATASHA SRIVASTAVA

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Anatomy of a Watch

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Reconciling between a rare finesse of jewellery heritage and watch making expertise, this London house signals with its new, unique timepiece, a scintillating homage to the mystery of the night. BY HERVÉ DEWINTRE

Myth: It is difficult to list the strokes of brilliance of the one called the Emperor of Diamonds. Two dates, nonetheless, stand out: in 1973, he became the first jeweller to be awarded the Queen’s Award for International Trade and, forty years later, the art of time as seen by Graff, became at its pace a legend with the presentation of “Hallucination”, which, as far we know, remains the most expensive watch in the world with its 110 carats of multi-coloured diamonds. Its price: € 40 million.

Craftsmanship: Released in 2008, the Graff watch makers express, once again, the magnitude of their expertise and the richness of their aesthetic vocabulary with a unique piece, inspired by the moon, each phase of which, in constant evolution, symbolises the double nature, sometimes ephemeral or eternal, of our loyal satellite. The 101 sapphires of marvellous intensity represent the celestial vault, while the 345 diamonds – baguette and brilliant cut, incarnate the different states of the silvery celestial bodies. “Fancy Moonlight” Watch, Casing: 24mm, 345 diamonds (13.23 carats), 101 sapphires (5.30 carats), unique piece, Graff. www.graffdiamonds.com

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Origin: The story begins in the east of London, where Laurence Graff was an apprentice in the Schindler atelier. His talent for beautiful stones manifested itself rather early; his ability let him create his own pieces. He was only 24 when he opens his own boutique.

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“Python” cuff in black gold and diamonds, Akillis.

Jewellery

“Force 10” cuff in rose gold and white diamonds, Fred.

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“Collier de chien” bracelet in white gold and diamonds, Hermès.

ARMS THAT IMPOSE

“Giunco” bracelet in white gold and diamonds, Vhernier.

REALISATION EMILY MINCHELLA

Manchette “Escapade” cuff in yellow gold and diamonds, Chaumet.

“Adonis rose” bracelet in white gold set with white diamonds in brilliant and marquise cuts, De Beers.

Bracelet in white gold set with grey mother of pearl and brilliant cut diamonds, Bulgari.

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“Haute couture” cuff in two sorts of engraved gold and diamonds, unique piece, Buccellati.

Eye-catching bracelets of gold and diamonds clasping the most resolute of wrists.

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“Reflet Small” watch in yellow gold and diamonds, gadroon dial, bracelet in yellow gold, Boucheron.

Watches

“Royal Oak” watch, double plated yellow gold, champagne dial, Audemars Piguet.

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“Boy.Friend” watch, medium model, in beige gold and diamonds, bracelet in beige gold, Chanel Horlogerie.

GOSH IT’S GOLD! The most beautiful metals, from clear yellow to beige, the rhythm of night to the breaking of dawn.

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“Cadenas” watch in yellow gold and pearl, Van Cleef & Arpels.

“G-Timeless” watch, casing and bracelet in clear yellow gold, Gucci.

REALISATION EMILY MINCHELLA

“Ballon bleu de Cartier” watch in yellow gold, opal dial silvery, engraved and lacquered, Cartier.

Cuff watch in two sorts of engraved gold and diamonds, “Bellis” collection, Buccellati.

“La Mini D de Dior Satine” watch in yellow gold and diamonds, sunlit gilded dial, Dior Horlogerie.

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Beauty

TRIED AND TESTED

What: True Color Eyeshadow Quad in Emerald Cut, Avon. Why we recommend: Because it features four diverse shades that beautifully complement each other. Despite the sparkle, they are ideal choice for daywear because of the light pigmentation. Its saturated colours work well for all skin tones and can create both neutral and subtly glam looks. As the clock ticks: Crease proof and lightweight, they stay set for 4-6 hours and give better colours on a well done base. Price: 5 gms, `800.

What: Glitter primer, NYX Cosmetics. Why we recommend: Anyone who’s fond of glitter eye makeup knows that fallout particles cascading onto your cheekbones is inevitable. With the NYX glitter primer make it stay all night and forget fading and fallouts. It makes eyeshadows more intense and even in texture. As the clock ticks: After about eight hours of wear, it is devoid of creases but leaves some patchiness and fading at the end of the day. Price: 10 ml, `600.

What: True Color Lipstick – Oxford Wine, Avon. Why we recommend it: The new improved Avon True Color Lipstick is rich in pigmentation and the texture is so glossy, it glides on the lips easily giving it a perfect wine shade for warm to dark skin tones and pinkish magenta shade for brighter skin tones. It feels satin soft on the lips and the consistency is like that of lip butters, the formula being non-sticky and moisturising which is perfect for a night out. As the clock ticks: It stays on for about four hours leaving a hint behind since it does transfer a lot while eating and drinking, so reapplication is required. Price: 3.8 gms, `350.

What: Soft Matte Lip Crème in Prague, NYX Cosmetics. Why we recommend: Because this one has a super buttery texture that hydrates with a shot of instant moisturisation and then dries up for an absolute matte finish. Lightweight and intensely pigmented, this pink-purple blend works well for fair to wheatish skin tones, brightening up the entire look without looking outright bold. As the clock ticks: A single swipe offers an average lasting of upto six hours but may highlight fine lines as it wears off. Price: 8 ml, `600.

What: Ombre Blush Fard Ombré in Strictly Chic, NYX Cosmetics. Why we recommend: This highly pigmented pretty blush features a gradient of colours, blush to highlighter all in the one! A muted peach-orange on warmer tones, it can be used for subtle contouring or natural flush. It evens out the skin leaving a matte finish. The brighter portion is ideal as a nose bridge highlighter. As the clock ticks: Longlasting colour that stays for upto seven hours. Price: 8 gms, `1200.

What: True Color Glimmersticks Kajal in Burnt Olive, Avon. Why we recommend: Perfect with fuss-free application, a soft kajal suitable for all skin tones, it glides on smoothly. Owing to high pigmentation, 1-2 swipes give dense shimmery olive colour. Though smudge and water proof it is easy to remove and great if you want to create smokey effects. As the clock ticks: A great choice to avoid raccoon eyes, on the eyelids it lasts till removed and six hours on the waterline. Price: 0.28 gms, `300.

ALL PRICES MENTIONED ARE APPROXIMATE. THE PRICES MAY OR MAY NOT INCLUDE TAXES.

What: Avant Pop! Shadow Palette in Surreal My Heart, NYX Cosmetics. Why we recommend: Offering an ideal combination of vivid hues, metallic magnetism and everyday neutrals, this versatile collection imparts a rich and intense finish. Easy to blend, powdery and light, they can be flawlessly layered for darker looks. Going easy or going pop? As the clock ticks: The colours retain intensity and texture for a long time. To avoid fallouts, apply over primers and blend to perfection. Price: 1.5 gms, `1500.

CHAPTER 3

ANNEX

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Iran opens its doors to quench the thirst of Western curiosity Between a sandy desert, irrigated gardens, palaces and rose flavoured ice cream, a journey into original Persia, the cradle of Godianism, land of mystical poetry and ancient architecture. TEXT & PHOTOS JEAN-FRANÇOIS GUGGENHEIM

Isfahan. Do you like Iran? How many times have they asked me that question since this morning, imprinting as much curiosity as sincerity? - Yes, Iran is fascinating. - And the Iranians? - Just as much! Warm and… so welcoming. - We wanted to invite you to come have some ice cream with us. Would that be okay? They are four, five even, now that I can see the youngest, who jumps in the middle of the group, to have so kindly invited me. Young

girls, students without a doubt, all smiles, under their headscarves printed with flowers, birds or horsemen. - Come! It’s this way, right next door. And to find myself prettily surrounded, the air filled with laughter, a myriad questions: Who are you? Where do you come from? What is your name? Are you married? What do you do for a living? It’s rose flavoured ice cream. Do you think of love? All of them with an odd bit of sticking plaster on the tips of their noses. In Tehran, a few days before, I had noticed, when the border forces were passing through,

the faces of a few customs officers done up the same way. They have their noses redone, is what I was told. To resemble the leading ladies of television. On exiting the airport one finds giant posters of religious heads, they aren’t as gentile. Beards of sorcerers, crooked profiles and dark eyes. Perfect for children’s fairy tales. Of a theocracy, unconcerned with detours. Tehran, despite its greyness, traffic and pollution, represents accurately, the Iran of today: with one eye looking towards the West and the other firmly rooted in a religious and conservative past. Quite an ocular gap.

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1. Magnificence of the Royal Isfahan Mosque. 2. Mysterious rooms of the Royal Mosque. 3. The Forty Column Palace and its breathtaking gardens. 4. Turquoise, enamel and lapis lazuli of the Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque.)

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Now to Tehran, where prohibitions are cleverly circumvented all day long. This new Iran was of concern to the one that we kept talking about, since the advent of ‘the moderate’ Hassan Rohani, when the country started to open up. The sky cleared and I find myself headed to La Maison des Artiste. A young woman is seated in the shade of a tree decorated with little pieces of fabric, those tied for a prayer, reading a book. The house has just opened and I stroll through the photo exhibit: images covering the Islamic revolution, the Iraq-Iran war, in colour and black and white, the terror, the death and the blood. I discover these Iranian photographers, their reckless, audacious photographs. I leave overwhelmed. The young woman in the shade notices me. - Do you like Iran? I admit to her that I had only just arrived in search of the artistic currents of Tehran. - My name is Shéhérazade. I am a guide, a storyteller and a writer in my free time. Come. There are so many things to be seen. She was dark haired and beautiful, a whiff of a fruity fragrance. By her side, I discover the most recent painters at the Saless Gallery, the name of the oldest publishing house of the country, contemporary creations at the W01 Gallery then at the Aum Gallery. These new born places seem to have grown with the coming of spring.

3 1. Tower of silence where the dead were delivered to the vultures. 2. Zoroastrian villages in the Cham Valley. 3. A little glimpse of The Wages of Fear.)

- There are several discreet galleries here. The many art students need spaces where they can express themselves. And then there are the expats, artists who live in Paris, London or New York, whose work and expression we would like to show. We brew a tea at the Gramophone, a hip bar where students mingle and flirt with one other, with the improbability of any boyfriends being declared. Time flies by. The sun sets over Tehran, Shéhérazade sips an orangeade. I thank her for this day. She does as well. I insist, I feel indebted. No, she says she is indebted. Then Shéhérazade explains the meaning of Taarof to me, this Persian etiquette, the foundation of the rules of Iranian hospitality, social behaviours in general, when the host is to offer, to his guest, all that is in his possession. Which the guest has every right to refuse and the other… well, to insist. A tireless discussion where everyone expresses their generosity as much as their devotion. So, we get on with it and exchange emails, I take a picture of her. The next day I returned to Kashan, 250 kilometres from where I was, in the south, south west. The desert road took me to a scene from a movie from the ’50s, a snippet of Taxi to Tobruk, a thriller on the Wages of Fear. The

“My host, Shéhérazade says, there are several discreet galleries here. The many art students need spaces where they can express themselves.”

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“In Yazd and in this region the Zoroastrians live peacefully, practicing their ancient, monotheistic religion of Iran which inspired philisopher Nietzsche immensely.”

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lorries around me transport all sorts of food products, petrol, chairs, carbon and sheep. We brush past the city of Qom, its 7,000 year old ruins, the most important theological centre of Godianism in the world today where the mullah’s train, from everywhere to Kashan, the unavoidable oasis on the silk and Isfahan route. The ancient odyssey leaves me speechless. The gigantic skylights, the kilometres long bazaar, leading to the mosques and the public baths, mysterious arcades unexpected tearooms. Finally, I was in Iran, I felt as if I was in a child’s dream. Return to Isfahan. This rose ice cream is soft and subtly flavoured. The students have finally scattered, after a multitude of questions: life in Paris, sorbets at Berthillon’s, not without them telling me that in Iran they have the sigheh, with the possibility of being married for only a few hours. An oral contract, which, it would seem, should preferably be validated by a mullah. I explain to them what it’s like to be engaged at my end and they swoon and ‘fly away’, half in earnest and half in jest, nonetheless happy, like a handful of canaries. I felt them dreaming of a life possible elsewhere, a visa for a foreign land. The domes of the Royal square, a tremendous esplanade in the heart of Isfahan, shimmering in the strong and direct midday sun. Isfahan, nicknamed “the half of the world”, is a concentration of the fantasies of the Orient. Resplendent palaces and mosques of yellow gold faience and blue peacock, the yellow acacias and the blue pansies in these gardens, irrigated by streams and fountains, over this square, larger than the Place de la Concorde, just as Shah Abbas wanted it. One would want to travel across the world just to see the Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque. The gigantic domes of turquoise and enamel, arcades of lapis-lazuli. Abbas the first was a man who left nothing out. In 1588, he demanded that his father leave him the power and doesn’t hesitate in assassinating his two brothers, constructing the foundation of modern Iran, supporting commerce and the arts, gets closer to the Europeans, establishes Isfahan as his capital. More than 16,000 monuments are built during this golden century of Persia. I climb up to the top of the Ali Qapu Palace to discover the music room, a skilfully built and graceful alcove, designed to master the echo, the lane towards the 40 Column Palace is reflected in its basin, I rejoice before these scenes unable to hide what I feel, where the wine and the dancers of the court of the 17th century intermingled in ancient bacchanal . Then I am, by mistake, lost in the souk, as if guided by the singing of nightingales, locked up in their little gilded cages in the front of shops. In search of a tea room, I enquire thus from a cloth merchant, who then offers me his own infusion, black and sweet. - Do you like Iran? I am an Afghani, there are a few of us in this bazaar. You will find people of all nationalities in Isfahan. But if you would like to be entertained, then go to the Armenian quarter, you will enjoy it. They drink wine, but no, I must not speak of it. I make a mental note of this, I thank him, I am thanked, salam aleykoum, aleykoum salam, then I make my way to the Khadju bridge, built across the Zayadeh-Rud river. Under its arches, little groups of people, women, men, children, talking and laughing. The elders start with enchanting songs, which talk of the disillusionment of love, the changing of seasons, chanting Saadi’s poems: “If a person is nothing more than an eye, mouth, ear and nose then how is mankind different from a painting on a wall.”. A song finishes in the middle of an applause, then begins again, further away, a few arches down. Vocal harmony, Persian polyphony, cadenced by the flow of the water. The sun drowns itself below the flow, it is beautiful without compare. “The intoxication of youth is much stronger than the intoxication of wine”, a Persian philosopher said. And in truth, of that wine promised to me I find no shortage of, in this Armenian

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1. Kashan Dome fitted with ancient baths, those mentioned in “One Thousand and One Nights”. 2. Rich decorations of the golden age of Persia. 3. Promenade at the Royal Isfahan square, ancient polo grounds. 4. The veils become headscarves, the hair takes some liberties. 5. Tea rooms like lecture rooms, dedicated to poetry.)

4 3

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“Youth, I see, sometimes brush past the tips of my fingers, the boys with hipster hair, checked jeans and shirt, wooing all the pretty girls who let themselves be courted.”

quarter. Youth, I see, sometimes brush past the tips of my fingers, the boys with hipster hair, checked jeans and shirt, wooing all the pretty girls who let themselves be courted, not without flirtatiousness, incomparable to the taste of the forbidden fruit. Rules a slight air of bohemia, the carefreeness and the gaiety. At vesper, the fifteen churches in the quarter assume their office. The trendy restaurants where they have their singing exercises accompanied by a flute and a tambourine, pay homage to the great, mystical poets of old, welcoming the tourists and residents, western businessmen accompanied by locals, future business partners if they’d like. Then, this morning, leaving Isfahan, and again a new desert, its extreme temperatures, its brutal light drying out the high plateaus on which we drive, amidst many lorries. The air oscillates, ready for all sorts of mirages. However, where we stop, there is a little cabin filled with samovars where we decide to drink a tea. The enormous speakers are chanting music, which I can only imagine, must be a war hymn. Curious contrast with the charming smile of our host. Further away is Yazd, the city of dried mud, with a mineral cover over the buildings, allowing them to be resistant to temperatures as high as 45 °C. It must have required an ancient genius engineer to bring water here, through underground canals running for tens of kilometres, from the neighbouring mountains as high as 4,000 metres. The brilliance of the architects, to have constructed these wind catchers, sometimes as high as 30 metres, that catch the gentlest breeze. In Yazd and in this region the Zoroastrians live peacefully, practicing their ancient, monotheistic religion of Iran from which Nietzsche took immense inspiration. In the Cham desert are the Towers of Silence where the dead were delivered, in good faith, to the vultures, entrusted with taking the souls to heaven. Here they cultivate saffron and pomegranates, we savour a soft local nougat named Gaz. Three hundred kilometres on the road, in the middle of the mountains and Shiraz appears. Dedicated to wine (The syrah/shiraz grape grows well in these parts and they grow it still, in spite of everything.) and to love, its curves and bends praised by its poets, the happy Shiraz was not permitted to exist following the days after the Islamic revolution. But times have changed in Iran. Everywhere one can now taste the joy of the city of the South. It’s a lot freer here it seems, for women, on customs, for happiness. Hafez and Saadi are among the poets who belong to Shiraz. Do the Persian poets not praise intoxication and love as paths to a superior truth, a world of thought? Does the south of Iran then bring up people who are out of their minds? One hour from here is Persepolis, a place that everyone from the world comes to visit. An extraordinary bas-relief terrace, griffons and columns placed on the mountains itself. This is where the Shah dazzled and shocked the world with the splendour of Iran. This is where Alexander the Great came to live in excess, to consume and devour the flavours of the East, before burning down the city. It seems that in Iran, time and events weave themselves very differently from other places. The traveller perceives more of this world than he can understand.

TRAVEL BOOK To get here: Asia proposes a 12 night/14 day individual trip leaving from Paris. Driving through the historical sites of Persia: Tehran, Kashan, Yazd, Isfahan, Shiraz and Persepolis with a guide, stays in 4 and 5 star hotels and a flight back to Paris with Turkish Airlines. Starting at € 4,466 Telephone. +33 1 44 41 50 10. www.asia.fr Flights: Turkish Airlines fly to Tehran 5 times a day via Istanbul, departures from Paris, Lyon, Nice, Marseille, Bordeaux and Toulouse. Daily connections to Isfahan and Shiraz. Flights from Paris CDG to Tehran, economy class, starting at € 359. www.thy.com To see: Known the world over as ‘The’ photographer of Isfahan, Isabelle Eshragi exhibits “Isfahan, the spirit of Iran” at the Espace Asia Paris from the 1st of December, 2016 to the 20th of May, 2017. A must see: Espace Asia Paris: 1, rue Dante, Paris 5e.

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(photos: 1. 2. et 3. The ruins of the city of Persepolis, where Alexander the Great consumed Oriental delicacies.)

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SHAPE OF THINGS TO COME Shoes have always flirted with architectural forms. What happens however when architects hit the designing tables to create miniature scaled, walking constructions? BY ELENI PAPAIOANNOU

Architectural shoe by Tea Petrovic.

The notion that shoes are small-scale pieces of architectural design has been around, contrary to what you might think, for a very long time. Architectural trends influenced our feet fetishes even back in the 15th century, a time when the poulaine, an extremely pointy shoe was in fashion. The style that came back in a more sensible manner around the 1950’s is said to have followed the pointy forms of Gothic structures, creating an interesting mash up between the arts, wearable or not. One can imagine the allure shoes might have for architects, as they resemble smallscale buildings and can be treated as such on paper, whether they are completely unwearable, like the extra-long and pointy poulaine, or extremely comfortable and round, like the trainers designed by the late

3D printed mojito shoe by architect Julian Hakes.

Oscar Niemeyer for Converse. Let’s take a closer look at this very interesting bond and the times it resulted in masterpieces. BEAUTIFULLY STRUCTURED The year of his passing, having reached the incredible age of 104, the genius Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer decided he should design trainers, and so he left us with a collection of five sneakers and slip-ons he created for Converse. The “sensual curve”, for which his architectural style is famous, appears in the form of a handwritten poem on one of the designs. Another poem by the architect celebrates his version of the Chuck Taylor high sneaker that also features a red tongue, in reference to his Ibirapuera Auditorium building in São Paulo. All of his designs for Converse have a clear and strong reference

to his architecture, making this his farewell note, his final nod to the world of impressive buildings through an easy, lifestyle infused move. Anarchistic? Sarcastic? Who knows? The point is the object he used to make his statement: shoes! Around the beginning of the century, the shoe industry managed to steal away a brilliant architect that had a lot to offer, since a famous namesake existed: Architect Rem D Koolhaas, the nephew of the esteemed Rem Koolhaas of OMA, came up with a shoe he named “Möbius”, back in 1999 while still studying architecture. The shoe, perfectly fusing fashion with classic architectural forms, was inspired by Ludwig Mies van der Rohe’s Barcelona chair, created in 1929. This design was unlike anything else out there, and

L’Officiel Koolhaas found it very hard to persuade any of the fashion houses to invest in it, so he was persuaded to start his own brand, called United Nude. Koolhaas had to develop new industrial production techniques to make his shoe, which he described as “the first high heel to cross the border between industrial design and fashion”. Using his name and impact on the design world, the young architect began collaborations with the Dutch fashion designer Iris van Herpen, as well as the Late Zaha Hadid. The Iraqiborn British architect, who passed away a year ago, in March 2016, always had a very interesting and vibrant relationship with fashion. She often stood out for wearing dramatic jewellery and fascinating designs by Comme des Garçons, Issey Miyake and Prada and made a regular appearance at industry events. The fashion world loved her for her sculptural and futuristic designs, ranging from an art project for Chanel in 2007, the unique flagship store she designed for Neil Barrett in Tokyo to jewellery and, of course, footwear. She didn’t only design for United Nude, but also for brands such as Georg Jensen, Lacoste (where she applied building techniques such as Direct Metal Laser Sintering, a method for precision cutting and etching metal), and all-rubber gladiator-style, ballet pump-cum-wedges for the brand Melissa. Her characteristic, flowing forms have made the latter e-bay treasures, but it is her Nova shoe for Koolhaas’ brand that stands out as a beautiful experiment in design, a miniature, magnificent edifice. The shoe is based on complex structural principles that make the 16 cm heel appear completely unsupported. Through molding, vacuum casting, and use of metallic chromed vinyl rubber and fiberglass, the shoe appears seamless and smooth. MODERNIST CONVENTIONS Frank Gehry is probably the first name that comes to mind when one thinks of contemporary architecture, and according to the 2010 World Architecture Survey, that is also a fact, a claim that led Vanity Fair magazine to name him “the most important architect of our age”. The Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao and the Walt Disney Concert Hall in Los Angeles, are merely a couple of his iconic designs that we can think of. The Vanity Fair foundation he built in Paris, became the talk of the fashion world in 2014, a cooperation that flourished when the Canadian-born architect became one of the six “iconoclasts” selected by the French fashion house to design a piece using their iconic monogram pattern as part of their “Celebrating Monogram” campaign. The 87-year-old genius is so restless that he

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1. Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. 2. Frank Gehry and wife Berta Gehry at the Walt Disney Concert Hall 10th Anniversary Celebration, Walt Disney Concert Hall, Los Angeles.

even designed his first yacht in 2015, but it was back in 2009 when he presented us with a collection of six buttoned, black-andwhite woman’s leather boots for JM Weston. “You shouldn’t have to differentiate between disciplines, shoes are very architectural and always have been, and even more recently there are new shoes (that are) buildings” he said back then and the secret to his brilliance probably lies in the conventional styles he chose for the shoes, in contradiction to his flashy, amorphous architectural structures. It is true that we live in a time where, to quote Gehry once again, “Architects create brand names”. Closer to a Rainessance way of creating than ever before, designers are free from the constraints of their work’s medium, left to create by using technology to their advantage and our surprise. When you design, it is pretty much irrelevant whether your creation will come to life through wood, concrete or leather. Or even rubber, for that matter, as did French architect Jean Nouvel, when he created a pair of leather and rubber boots for Italian shoe brand Ruco Line at the Interni Hybrid Architecture and Design exhibition in Milan, in 2013. The footwear, called “Pure”, reduced the concept of the shoe in its purest form, according to the architect. What more evidence do we need to understand this

fascinating fusion of creativity, than this elementary and simple approach, stripped of any reference? On the same playing field, on the other side, sits the Mojito shoe by architect Julian Hakes, a pair of swirling stilettos he designed for Spring/Summer 2011 that is more about form than function, more about architecture than fashion, even though it made its debut on the runway of two shows of the London Fashion Week. When these two worlds blend together perfectly we get the Tea Petrovic, the ideal hybrid of a shoe designer, strictly influenced by architecture. The Sarajevoborn designer and artist creates shoes that look like buildings with thin, fragile and detailed shapes, paying tribute to her architecture gods, such as Santiago Calatrava, whose characteristic arches are captured flawlessly in a series of cuttingedge shoes she created for a project at the Academy of Fine Arts in Sarajevo. Her words perfectly summarise the perfect, simple and natural matrimony between the two: “I have created a shoe collection that is centered around the idea that each shoe is a sculptured, architecturally structured form. To highlight their sculptural aspect the shoes are kept white, which also lays emphasis on the artistic language present in the entire collection.” Did anyone say “blank canvas”?

Installation image of Kanu Gandhiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s booth by PHOTOINK at the India Art Fair 2017 Photograph courtesy Randhir Singh

Of FRAME and FAME

Architect and urbanist Noor Dasmesh Singh picks the best from the India Art Fair that brought together artists and collectors from over 24 countries to create an exclusive gallery for us.

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Left Top: Mahatma Gandhi visiting marble rocks at Jabalpur, Madhya Pradesh, 1941 Photograph courtesy Kanu Gandhi and PHOTOINK Left Bottom: Mahatma Gandhi at Juhu beach, Bombay, June 1944 Photograph courtesy Kanu Gandhi and PHOTOINK

KANU’S GANDHI KANU GANDHI Kanu’s Gandhi showcased a unique collection of archival photographs that Kanu Gandhi, the grandnephew of Mahatma Gandhi, took over the span of 4 years from 1944 to 1948. The photographs, beautifully presented on gelatin silver prints with sepia tones, offered a rare insight into the private life of an iconic public figure, Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi. Kanu was a self-taught photographer, perhaps thanks to his interaction with photographers and journalists who visited Gandhi and constantly gifted him their pictures and prints. His family moved to Sabarmati Ashram where his father worked as a manager. At first Gandhi turned down Kanu’s request of shooting him, saying there were not enough funds, but later relented and requested industrialist Ghanshyam Das Birla, to help Kanu. GD Birla gifted Kanu a hundred rupees, enough to buy a Rolleiflex camera and a roll of film back in the day. Gandhi imposed three conditions on Kanu so as to let him take photographs: to begin with, he was to never use the flash; he could never ask Gandhi to pose and that the Ashram would not fund his work. Kanu began selling his photographs to newspapers. Being the only one allowed to take photographs of Gandhi at any time, he was, however, forbidden at certain times from clicking any. One such time was when Kasturba lay dying in his lap at the Aga Khan Palace in Pune. At the time of Gandhi’s assassination in 1948, Kanu was in East Bengal where he had been ordered, by the Mahatma, to stay back and continue his work. Gandhi’s death had a profound impact on Kanu and his wife, Abha. For Kanu, photography was no longer as important as the need to convey the Gandhian message. They continued to travel around India promoting Khadi, teaching the use of the spinning wheel and handicrafts. Kanu Gandhi did continue with photography in the interim, even if sporadically. In 1956 Kanu and Abha moved to Rajkot where they ran the Kasturbadham and Rashtriyashala Institutes. Kanu Gandhi died of a heart attack on 20 February 1986 while on pilgrimage in Madhya Pradesh. Kanu’s Gandhi is supported by Photoink.

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TAJ MAHAL SUDARSHAN SHETTY One of India’s most acclaimed artists showcases his gleaming artwork composed of 250 miniature stainless steel reproductions of the monument of love – Taj Mahal. This repeating module is bolted together in an array to create a box volume that instantly draws attention. Shetty’s work is an attempt at bringing out the disconnect between the way the legacy of the Taj is being preserved and conserved and the manner in which rather tacky souvenirs and memorabilia ‘robbed of potency’ are mass reproduced and sold. It could also be a case of the subversion of a sterling monument, by throwing countless cheap copies in this age of easy replication, in a world seeped in proliferating images; where it is no longer possible to remain centre stage for long, something will come and replace you sooner than your expect. “The multiple copies reflect its commodification, forcing us to think of how an icon representing immortal love is abused and manufactured as mindless reproductions”, the artist suggests. Sudarshan explores material and medium to examine history, memory, and desire. Therefore, his choice of steel as a medium is also intentional, to allude to the current nature of society, its economy and so called ‘modernisation’. On the inside of this ‘walk-in sculpture’ is a video installation showing the central dome of the Taj Mahal being symbolically consumed by flames. The video loop strategically placed in the dome area of the inside evokes a spatial dimension to the art-work. Sudarshan’s Taj Mahal draws an audience close to discover and unravel the planes of each miniature that sits happily over the other. Taj Mahal is supported by the Kiran Nadar Museum of Art.

Caption: .... In the salon, a photo of Kate Moss by Nan Goldin.

WHEN THE DAY BELONGS TO THE NIGHT JOEL ANDRIANOMEARISOA Joel, born and raised in Madagascar, is an architect by training, and shuttles between his birth place and Paris. His project had been envisioned specifically for this edition of the India Art Fair. The art work is a triptych with each part 3m x 2m; an attempt to draw parallels between

Madagascar and India’s complex landscape of ‘shared experiences’, fused with the artist’s interest in memory and nostalgia. The scale of the work hits you instantly with its rich textures and layering in fields of black, perforated by longitudinal, mineral veins of gold. Joel feels that the combination of these two elements suggests a contradiction, “it is both a formidable boundary and an invitation. It forbids our desire to enter, indicating an end to exploration and freedom; yet at the same time, we are drawn to the wall of shimmering black and gold, attracted by the play of reflected and absorbed light” he says.

The connection between Madagascar and India is translated into a tangible affair by the artist. Joel sourced the fabric – the black cotton cloth from Madagascar, which was cut into 3 cm x 3cm pieces and fixed to each of the three sections. The part that appears in gold is from varied sources – fifty scarves, from second hand markets in Madagascar, were shredded, along with a few sarees from Jodhpur. These are meant to weave the histories and lives of their previous owners apart from lending the aesthetics of textures and shimmer to the triptych. Finally, he uses a colourful fabric that is synonymous with ‘funeral shrouds’ in Madagascar that Joel weaves into a narrative of life and death. Andrianomearisoa’s work has recently being acquired by the National Museum of African Art – a Smithsonian Institution. ‘When the day belongs to the night’ comes with the collaboration of Madrid based Sabrina Amrani and Thibault Poutrel Contemporary Art.

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A TALE OF TWO CITIES VARIOUS: SIX ARTISTS FROM INDIA AND FIVE FROM SRI LANKA Lending a South Asian appeal to the fair, A Tale of Two Cities is an interesting crosscultural collaborative art project comprising of 11 contemporary artists from India and Sri Lanka. The project originally mooted by Renu Modi and curated by Colombo based Ruhanie Parera, is an investigative research based inquiry into the historical and sociocultural dynamics of two medieval cities Varanasi (Banaras) in India and Anuradhapura in Sri Lanka. The project brought together an eclectic collective of artists Riyas Komu, Manisha Parekh, Ram Rahman, Paula Sengupta, Chintan Upadhyay and Manjunath Kamath from

India and Jagath Weerasinghe, Anoli Perera, Pala Pothupitiye, Pradeep Chandrasiri and Bandu Manamperi from Sri Lanka. Initiated in 2015, it started out as a series of conversations between the artists and later on extended to exploring cultures, religions and shared histories within the sub-continent. Both the cities of Anuradhapura and

Varanasi have a rich past associated with their existence and both are bearing witness to the dynamics of the rapidly changing digital world. The project showed a video loop documenting the interactions and engagements of the artists traversing the physical spaces of the two cities. The project intends to engage through questions and reaffirm the importance of analysing spaces qualitatively.

LOTUS BROOKHART JONQUIL California based Brookhart has a keen interest in working with geometry and reflections which he seems to relate to utopian ideas of perfection. This rather simple looking installation draws our interest within itself with its reflective surfaces, folded geometry, linear fluorescent tubes and crisp uncluttered reading. The multiple reflections evoke a mirage of sorts for the audience. The experience at night is quite different from the one during the day since the light tubes draw most of one’s attention towards one’s reflections on folded surfaces. It is part of Brookhart’s continuing series of work that uses fluorescent lights reflected in mirrors to create geometric forms. He made the first in 2011, “out of a desire to make something that physically existed as little as possible- just lines of light, joining with their own reflections”, he says. The title ‘Lotus’ came about incidentally, when a flowerwala watching him intently do his work asked if it was a lotus. Brookhart thought to himself and smiled. The artist believes that ‘the idea of perfection has nothing to do with well measured lines or polished edges.’ His work requires a degree of precision but some error is inescapable. Lotus is commissioned by the Floodlight Foundation for the public program of 2017 edition of India Art Fair.

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THE ART OF PLATING We shift focus from the usual styling to a more unique alternative. Food stylist Sujata Sadr talks to us about what it means to curate a plateful of art. BY DHRUV ADITYA DAVÉ

L’Officiel India: When did you become aware of the need of food stylists? Sujata Sadr: I started this chapter of my life with a food page for a magazine. It was all very exciting and so began formal training under my mentor, Indranie Dasgupta. It was then that I realised the potential in a career of food styling and the personal possibilities it offered. L.I.: Was it a risky idea, doing something so niche? S.S.: It being so niche was a plus. For the longest time Indranie and I were the only two professional food stylists in Delhi, that certainly gave us an edge. L.I.: What stood out in your initial days as a food stylist? S.S.: Learning from and assisting an established stylist opens many doors, and helps you put that first foot forward. But it’s an uphill battle from there, with new challenges on every shoot.

L.I.: With more international chains coming in and many local chains expanding, food styling is here to stay. But what do you suppose the future holds? S.S.: The trend might shift completely, from todays’ carefully orchestrated photographs to more natural ones. L.I.: Is there a lot of good food to be had as a stylist? Tell us the perks and the downside of it. S.S.: Unfortunately, none, most of the food is handled far too much for me to want to eat it. For me it’s about the satisfaction I get from working with some of the most creative people in the business and, obviously, the joy of always being surrounded by food. L.I.: Tell us about your favourite project. We know how fashion and hair stylists work, we’re curious to know your process. S.S.: It’s pretty much the same. We are given a brief, in terms of setting the scene for the shot. It starts with a lot of research on the cuisine, recipes for the dishes that we are shooting and then the running around to procure the right props, from

traditional textiles, painted backgrounds, crockery to cutlery. One can spend an entire day just looking for the right spoons. So, there are many layers of carefully thought out elements that come together to create the photograph. One of my favourite projects is the Kohinoor shoot which was on different rice dishes of the world. L.I.: How would you style your favourite dish and which is the one that you would love to style some day? S.S.: It’s more about working with really beautiful and fresh ingredients; humble ingredients from someone’s garden or really exotic ones that aren’t seen every day. That is really exciting for me.

L.I.: A typical meal at home- a gourmet presentation or no? S.S.: Not at all! But it’s hard to not tweak things with a flower or a garnish, before it gets to the table. L.I.: As a fashion stylist, the last thing one wants is to shop for oneself since that is done all the time for other people. Does that happen with you? Is there an ingredient or dish that has put you off completely as a result? S.S.: None. I love shopping for food. Going to the sabzi mandi is a treat! It’s difficult to stay away from good food thanks to my fully gourmet family!

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Annex

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DIRECTOR’S CUT

In Christophe Robin’s salon, the colourist to the stars.

BY AURÉLIA HERMANGE-HODIN PHOTOGRAPHS BY SÉBASTIEN MICHELINI

This is high-end Parisian hairstyling! The hotspots of hairdressers and colourists are always the largest and the most beautiful.

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Christophe Robin, salon Christophe Robin

The professional profile of Christophe Robin has him swimming in colour from his childhood. At 14, he started his education and discovered the colourists discipline. A revelation, he immediately entered Jean Louis David’s as an assistant trainee then climbed till he became the artistic director of the label, during which he created new colouring techniques. All this before, opening his first salon at 24. And with what care he creates his colours. In 1999, he created a classic range which led to a cult following for the Crème lavante au Citron. Him and Her The mythical blonde of Catherine

Deneuve? Him. The magnetic brown of Isabelle Adjani? Also, him. Without forgetting, Tilda Swinton, Kristin Scott Thomas, Kylie Minogue or Chiara Mastroianni. And the innumerable heads transformed over the course of his carrier. His new playground is the little hair salon of Bar-sur-Aube, the talented artist has quickly moved on to a suite at The Meurice Hotel, perfect to welcome his loyal VIP clientele. Since last summer he has been working out of this specific hotel, with a theatrical décor, in the heart of the Montorgueil quarter. Between pink leather sofas, heavy velour curtains and rococo mirrors, the furniture follows in line till it reaches super confidential

cabin reserved for his most well-known clients. The night… “For me, a simple bun is always elegant and easy to create. My trick is to use, as a final touch, the intense regenerating Baume of the oil of a rare wild fig, to discourage any frizzing, also applying a light touch of it on the top of the head to give the effect of a healthy glow and of naturally reflecting light.” His bestsellers: Crème lavante au Citron, Christophe Robin, € 36. Lavender Oil, Christophe Robin, € 34.

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David Mallet, Salon David Mallett at the Ritz

Obsessed with hair since his most formative years, baby David decided to become a coiffeur at the tender age of 4. Twenty-three years later, he moves away from his motherland, Australia, to Paris and finds himself noticed rather quickly by Jean-Baptiste Mondino. Thrown into the big leagues now and starts work on shoots with Bettina Rheims, Patrick Demarchelier, David LaChapelle or Terry Richardson and ad companies for Givenchy, Sonia Rykiel, Chanel or Rolex. In 2003, he opens his first salon and rapidly becomes one of the most covered Parisian coiffeurs. The success of his line of beauty care products, launched in 2012 doesn’t slow him down…

His new playground, The Ritz! Love in the luxurious basement of the Parisian palace, behind a secret door, David Mallett’s new space is considered an intimate extension of his immense apartment in the 2nd arrondissement. Moreover, the excellent team of the Rue Notre Dame des Victoires is present, in turn, as the five hairdressers of the salon, ready to cut, brush, colour and care for hair in a cosy environment with a strippeddown decor of a muted elegance. Him and Her Natalie Portman, Diane Kruger, Marion Cotillard, Léa Seydoux and Penélope Cruz are his regulars. As for Clémence Poésy, his blond and his scruffy do are in good hands…

The night… “We want to be noticed, and so we try the most demented colours! My favourites are, indigo blue, cyclamen pink, emerald green and fuchsia. The only one I refuse my clients is the canary yellow: impossible, no matter what the situation! We find a colour that is important to you in some way: the year of your birth, your zodiac, your favourite flower…. And opt for natural roots and a smashing colour through the length of the hair. Just for a party or longer. His bestseller Spray coiffant Elnett, L’Oréal Paris, € 9,90. Straightener “Styler Gold Classic”, GHD, € 196. Volume Powder, David Mallett, € 30.

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Frédéric Mennetrier, L’Atelier Blanc The expert of customised colouring came to us from the east of France and, on finishing his training, he travelled extensively and effortlessly covered fashions weeks in Paris and Milan. In 1999, L’Oréal Professionnel offered him an opportunity to create a collection of colours: that was the beginning of a long collaboration filled with innumerable perfume and beauty campaigns. In 2011, he opened the first Atelier Blanc, where anonymous interactions occur between young actresses and top models, who we always find in his large and, always immaculate, new space. His new playground Between an intriguing cabinet, a rococo boudoir and an artist’s atelier, the space set

up by the alchemist colourist follows the trends of all that is dear to him: Chinese furniture, stark white figurines and statuettes, mouldings, ancient mirrors and gentle lighting. With 280 square metres, 10 people on the floor, a VIP cabin and a photo studio. The sublime craft of the maestro has, for itself, a tailored casing. A bonus, the banal capes have, here, been embellished with lace. SO CHIC!! Him and Her To start with, Kim Kardashian, whose blonde he worked on during her platinum phase (he insisted though, that starlet come to him at the salon), the renowned dancer, Dorothée Gilbert, and her deep brunette, and then to Eva Green,

Lou Doillon and Lara Stone, including his comrades of the catwalk. The night “We have fun, trying a very straight forward yet ephemeral colour on the hair, from a red to a green going past pink. With light coloured hair, we play with direct pigments, which come off after two washes. On dark hair, we use a bomb of colour so that the tinge remains till the next wash. To maintain fresh hair, we apply a little bit of dry shampoo on the base of the hair, around the face, to avoid the little flattened strands.” His bestseller: Color Corrector, L’Oréal Professionnel, € 20,70. Shampooing ShP1 for thin, coloured and sensitive hair, Atelier Blanc, € 31. Hydrating Crème de coiffage, Moroccanoil, € 33.

Welcome to the club! To those, adept with gentle colouring and warm ambiences, we will not present Romain, one of the most talented colourists of his generation. Today, to respond more loyally to the expectations of his clientele, the master of natural opens a new

confidential concept in the Madeleine quarter of Paris (don’t bother looking for the address in the yellow pages, we will put you through to them over the telephone). Open to all, this “club du cheveu” offers, more than ever before, natural colours

and vegan products and also more time with each client, spaced out appointments for a truly VIP welcome and care and pigments that respect the hair and the environment. In short, a philosophy which is slowly being embraced by all for an enchanting interlude for hair

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NO CHINK IN HER ARMOUR Ditching old school nuances of the Indian fashion scenario, fashion designer Isha Rajpal is on a war footing to change the face of couture in the country. BY NATASHA SRIVASTAVA

turning those dreams into reality. Her determination has paid off so far. The journey began with a trunk show, ‘A Summer Affair’ in 2015 at the Dorchester, Mayfair in London, hosted by Indian high fashion, multi-brand store Aashni + Co. and led to her making the rounds of Lakme Fashion Week. The brand now retails at premium stores such as Carma, Rock’n’shop, Pitaraah, and Kitsch in Delhi and London.

In a culture where the six-yard sari and the delicate anarkali have reigned supreme for the longest time we have for you, this breath of fresh air. A rebel with a cause, crusading for the other side so that people notice and understand the wonders existing beyond the closely drawn confines of tradition. With a creative zeal that represents the woman of today, Isha Rajpal is unbound by norms and mores. She creates impressions of the ever changing and undying force of selfexpression and art in its truest form. All set to leave behind the restrictive ideas of traditional Indian fashion, she offers a new line with leather and embellishments, tassels and frills and an elegance that will endure. To make all that a reality, Isha along with her sister-in-law Namrata Rajpal, brings to you, Rose Room Couture. Don’t let the name mislead you, the warm, floral and soft image that comes to the mind is far from what Isha has done with this line. Accentuating the right curves almost like putting on a pair of gloves. The designs might be far out but they are still able to maintain a dainty and womanly allure. The theme, in a way, is a sartorial representation of a new, innovative interpretation of the flamboyance and magnificence of the Victorian era. The Rose Room woman, for Isha, is one who has seen and embraced her true self and is not afraid to express it. She follows no limitations and yet she moves with undercurrents of subliminal femininity. She is a woman who knows her mind, ”You can be refined. You can be sensual. But to be both, at the same time, is a lot more difficult than it sounds,” says Isha. After a master’s degree in Garment Manufacturing Technology from NIFT,

Isha Rajpal.

New Delhi and summer school at the FIT, New York, Isha has developed an assertive control over her use of colour and an in-depth knowledge of what it means to manufacture one’s designs along with the technical awareness. Her sense of design though, is something that she has worked on by herself, for herself and her passion for clothing. But for someone who uses so much black and heavy embellishments, bringing out the theatre in her designs, Isha happens to be pretty simplistic at heart. She starts her day with a healthy dose of yoga, followed by a lot of deep breathing and Buddhist chants, which keeps her calm and centered. It prepares her for the hardships of the day. “This gives me the strength and rhythm to go through my day with a smile. Spirituality opens the mind and broadens one’s horizons .” A strong believer of the divine plan over defining moments, Isha isn’t much of a planner herself. She has always been a dreamer but one who works towards

Like most designers, she lives by the motto ‘Work is Life’ and encourages every aspiring designer to create their unique and individual identity. With every milestone she crosses she aims higher and works even harder. “Faith is the answer and perseverance is the key. Nothing comes easy in life,” she says, all geared up for the new notch in her belt, a men’s line titled, Rose & Thorns. Innate femininity being the very essence of an Isha Rajpal design, one is bound to think of how the men’s line is going to work or if the challenges can be anticipated. Though Isha claims otherwise, “Men’s fashion is dynamic and ever changing. It has evolved to a stage where men do not cringe at shades of pink and purple anymore. It is open to new perspectives. A subtle essence of our dressing sense into theirs, sounds quite witty and fun actually.” She adds with a smile curling up in the corner of her mouth, “In any case, what are men without women!” If that wasn’t enough, Isha is soon to launch her pret collection which has come together as a result of a collaboration with Pernia’s Pop-Up Shop and their experiments with fun. A designer, an innovator and a firm believer, Isha Rajpal is making a mark in the industry with her progressive vision and her knack for fusing the radical with the sublime.

«It’s Time for Timelessness.»

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MORNING KISSES Converted ex-artisan, Mathias Kiss mixes the decorative and contemporary arts, rigour and eccentricity, mirrors and gold decorations. Meeting at his ‘Kiss Room’ at La Perle cafe in Paris. BY LÉA TRICHTER PARTIENTE

PHOTOGRAPHS BY MAXIME LEYVASTRE

of the Season restaurant and the Café de la Poste in the Marais, and more recently, an installation on site at the Alain Guthrac gallery, first presented in Brussels’s, during the Yia Art Fair (where I was laureate in 2016), which consisted of covering the ground with gold paper to interrogate the spectators by having them advance and participate in the wear and tear of this precious metal.

Are you a morning person? Not really, I wake up when I want, normally around 10. Your favourite places? La Perle cafe (78, rue VieilleduTemple), the Café de la Poste (124, rue de Turenne) and the Taxi Jaune (13, rue Chapon), in Paris. What do you have for breakfast? A café crème without foam and an orange juice.

What is your artistic method? Complete immersion in my work.

Do you sleep late? Yes, but I am not a party animal. I love the night because that is when I can spend time with my accomplices.

How was the ‘Kiss Room’ born? My friend, Jean Philippe, the owner of La Perle café, gave me a free pass to redo this space. I created a room, isolated from noise and composed of a thousand mirrors, of a thousand reflections and an unedited band created by Nicolas Godin, of the group Air.

What are your hobbies? I do Thai Boxing. Where did you study? I was placed in a correctional facility of the CM2 in the 4th arrondissement. At the age of 14 they oriented me towards a study of glass decoration and installation. After three years of training, I joined the ‘Compagnons’ with the hope to change the future that I had been condemned to. For 15 years, I lived and worked as a labourer and spent time with older people. What are the ‘Compagnons du devoir’? It is an association for labourers, as strict as the clergy or the army! I worked in areas full of history, like the Louvre and I perfected my technique, even though it was rigid and academic. I quit in 2002 to join as an associate at Attilalou, a decorative arts studio.

What changed most for you then? Saying ‘I’ instead of ‘we’. Which work caused the fallout? Unquestionably, Le Miroir Froissé in 2008, the completion of a work on the absence of a right angle. Some of your more recent works? The ‘Double Je’ exposition at the Palais de Tokyo where we put up Golden Snake, a labyrinth of decorated gold paper ridges, the Radio Room installation for the house of Boucheron, Place Vendôme, decoration

What are your upcoming projects? A production for the next shoe collection by Hermès, two expositions at the Elle Gallery in Zurich, from next March to June, and at Mudac in Lausanne from May to October. I am going to try and live a life of retirement in the ‘Kiss Room’ from the 1st to the 31st of March. I am also writing a book, at the moment, on brutal ornamentation. What is your motto? Less blah blah blah and more results. What moves you? Freedom. I am learning to unlearn.

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THROUGH THE

Umang Hutheesing.

ANNALS OF HISTORY Collector of vintage royal clothing, Umang Hatheesingh, is on a fashion misson. But, wait! that’s not where this story begins. BY PALLAVI REBBAPRAGADA

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Ever heard of Lockwood de Forest? This New Yorker, from an era that Twain referred to as America’s ‘Gilded Age’ (late 19th century), made efforts to preserve certain Indian artisanal skills and indigenous motifs largely associated with wood carving. It wasn’t coincidental that this art lover, swimming against the tide of the industrial revolution, washed up on the shores of Muggunbhai Hutheesing’s court in Gujarat. The latter was the son of Kesreesing Hutheesing, who held the title of ‘Seth’, usually conferred on mill-owners and merchants. But business wasn’t the only reason why Magganbhai wanted to reach out to de Forest. Ahmedabad’s heart bled for its weavers, craftsmen and local arts that were being crushed by the machines of industry. American Art History philosopher, Roberta Mayer mentions, “Through Hutheesing, de Forest was able to have access to the services of the hereditary workmen of his family, including the mistri sub-caste within the Vaisyas (traders). The mistris were skilled wood- and stoneworkers, capable of creating designs, executing fine carvings, and overseeing constructions as both architects and engineers. De Forest first invested ₹10,000 (approximately $4,000 at that time) to purchase materials and secure the services of an accountant and several workmen. The bulk of this initial investment was for carved teakwood squares and tracery panels, paper patterns, pierced-brass panels, brass chains and wooden planks for the making of hanging seats, Malbari teak beams, panels of Valsadi teakwood, and some horse trappings, that he found quite fascinating. By September 1882, de Forest had invested approximately ₹35,020.” The Hutheesing Design Company (HDC) was established in 1881. Today, Umang Hutheesing manages operations. The 52-year-old doesn’t want to call himself a ‘fashion designer’ because that limits his family’s centuries-old association with craft and reduces him to a mass-market setter of trends. “Fashion is a fraction of what I do. I would like the world to understand my creations in a larger context of the global scale that I have been taking India towards,” he says. He isn’t exaggerating, the first Indian to have put an American president (Bill Clinton)

Brocade sarees with marodi embroidered velvet pallav.

in a bandhgala, Hutheesing showcased his collection at Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation festival at the Buckingham Palace in 2013. Prior to that, in 2010, he did his first show in Paris, ‘The Last Maharajas Costumes: From the Great Durbar to Independence (1911–1947)’ that showcased more than five thousand pieces: achkans, chogas, shervanis, saris, abhas in gold, silver, silk and brocade and eventually moving to khadi and white cotton. The show lasted five months and on one night there was a sit-down dinner at Versailles where Carla Bruni and Princess Chantelle, among others, sat behind an arrangement of fine silverware and a sea of crystal flutes that stilled candle flames. It is no coincidence that only after Hutheesing’s exhibit in Paris, Karl Lagerfeld presented his Paris-Mumbai collection, Hermès their

saris, Canali their bandhgalas and Louis Vuitton his India collection. Over three hundred pieces of royal costume created by him, are currently being warmed by focus-bulbs at the Baroque International Museum in Mexico, National Museum of Bahrain and Miho Museum in Japan. “I want to showcase Indian heritage and cultivate pride and curiosity in it. In the first month of my exhibit in Mexico, there were more than 1,60,000 visitors. What does that do to brand India?” he asks, and feels every Indian designer will benefit from such splendour. Precisely 116 years ago, from spring to autumn, ran the World Exposition for which the Grand Palais was erected. It was here that Hutheesing’s design firm won

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nine gold medals. Tying up with Tiffany and Co. to do the interiors of the East Wing of the White House and Kensington Palace. Has any other design firm in Asia done that? “People, even the richest people in the country and abroad, think my clothes are hideously expensive. When I offer to design for them, they tell me that if they buy my clothes, they won’t be able to afford the wedding,” he recounts. The truth is far from that. All one has to do is seek an appointment to visit the Hutheesing Haveli in Jesingbhai Vadi in Ahmedabad and inform the creative team about theme and budget. If a brocade sari with a marodi embroidered velvet palla is for 1.35 lakhs, a royal blue velvet lehenga with a well-rounded fall can be bought for 4.5 lakhs. Shervanis, that cost between 1.55 to 1.75 lakhs, are in velvet and silk with delicate gold thread-work and semiprecious stones. The warp, weft and wonder may invoke royalty but the clothes are as affordable and, in some cases, cheaper than other wedding season favourites, such as Sabyasachi, Anita Dongre, or even Tarun Tahiliani.

Silk Velvet Choga.

Rich red and coloured jaipuri ghera with velvet blouses and tissue odhna.

Just because the collections are placed next to swords and brooches and crowns from Mughal history, doesn’t mean they were designed only to be displayed in glass cases in museums. “People are intimidated by history in India, when actually they should be celebrating it,” explains the seasoned collector of historic goods with a recorded family history of 1,200 years. His experience with the Indian press, he says, has been vague. He’s usually faced with questions like “Did you study design at NIFT?” “How many years have you spent designing?” “Which fashion weeks will you showcase in?” “Will you tie up with celebrities in India?” He doesn’t know how to deconstruct his unusual journey for them. Hutheesing has been around the world 22 times, in search of experience. He worked as a chef in Mexico, worked with anthropologists of pre-colonial excavation sites in the Amazon, assisted filmmakers in Los Angeles, worked on a nature farm in Hawaii, and has been an apprentice with American painter Robert Rauschenberg. “Money can buy experiences, but it cannot buy the dedication to learn. One can snatch your wealth and power away from you but your education will never fail you,” he believes. Hutheesing also serves as a spiritual icon for Bhrama Kumaris, Osho, Dalai Lama

and the BAPS Swaminarayan Sanstha. When Diana Eck and Dorothy Austin, faculty deans at Harvard, brought their students to study the sacred geography of the Kumbh Mela, it was Hutheesing who accompanied them, explaining the big and small symbolism behind the sanctioned volatility of ash-smeared nakedness. “I consider myself a cultural reformer. Each class has a role to play in Make-In-India. Doesn’t it?” says the man whose family built the Ahmedabad Civil Hospital, the largest charitable hospital in the world (4,700 beds). His family financed Shanti Niketan and started its sister concern Leila & Purushottam Hutheesing Visual Art Centre, in 1978. Umang Hutheesing is its managing trustee. “I want to save what’s brilliant in our country. Narendra Bhai Modi has been a chief guest at our cultural events and supports the efforts our foundation makes toward reviving history,” says the man who happens to be related to Nehru and Tagore. Today, the Indian economy is a large and vibrant promise of entrepreneurship and entire empires are being erected around ideas and inventions which are being fortified by large investments. Has young money overtaken old forts and the histories crumbling away with them? If meritocracy is indeed the opposite of inheritance, then is there no evolution left to be made in inheritance? If you don’t move forward, you move backward.

L’Officiel

MEETINGS WITH REMARKABLE MANUSCRIPTS Art and history are undoubtedly fascinating. Even more so, when we see unseen, unheard concepts for a book, on a subject like manuscripts. One of the world’s most celebrated palaeographers, expert at deciphering cryptic works of art and ancient artifacts, Hamel takes his readers on an eloquent journey. Exploring twelve medieval manuscripts, he renders them in ways simple enough to be universally understood, decoding them for individuals less well versed with such impressions. The author traces the origin and maps the creation, history and survival of these valuable wonders, across space and time. The magnetism of fascinating pictures, seeped in culture and Hamel’s conversational approach make it an intriguing yet comfortable read, which is also intellectually stimulating and highly enriching. by Christopher de Hamel

Books

DIOR

LE MONDE D’HERMÈS Beginning with a ‘modest glossary’ familiarising readers with the Hermès lingo before they let loose in the world of Hermès, the 2017 edition of the brand’s biannual issue is woven around the theme of ‘Object Sense’. While Oliver Wickers imponders over Wabi Sabi and ‘significance of origin’, in conversation with Yu magazine founder, Seigo Matsuoka; Joseph Ghosn, sheds light on safety pin’s evolution from a mere household efficacy to the lure of our wardrobes. Mesmerizing pictures narrate a story of their own in ‘Sur La Route’ and ensnared amidst literary marvels, Hermès products spring to life through the lens of photographer Frederik Vercruysse, in the library of Amsterdam’s Rijksmuseum. A compilation charting the brand’s explorations of the sense of style and sophistication, the sense of fun and vision with every page rendered in diverse shades, it the one thing that all fashion fanatics will find themselves lusting after.

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FREEKS Weaving fantasies and creating the aura of mystery with mere words has always been the forte of Hocking. With captivating characters ranging from werewolves to wizards, Freeks is the intriguing and intense story of Mara, who has spent all her life in the realm of the supernatural and paranormal, being a part of a freak show, on the move. In a new city, she meets a new boy and a new story begins. While Mara is relishing in her unexpected escape from the usual humdrum of her life, a sinister evil is unleashed. As the carnival crew falls prey to it, a distraught Mara and her undiscovered powers remain the only ray of hope. A struggle for survival ensues. Will Mara find out who is terrorizing their world before they get to her? by Amanda Hocking

“My dresses are fantasies, but they are tamed fantasies that have passed from the realm of dreams into the world of everyday items that are meant to be worn.” When a book starts on such a note, putting it down isn’t something one will even consider. Written by Farid Chenoune, featuring photographs by Laziz Hamani, it illustrates the story of how one man and his passion, fashioned an empire that we know as the ‘House of Dior’. From Dior’s feminine elegance to Saint Laurent’s androgynic interpretations, from Marc Bohan’s ‘designs for the real woman’ to Gianfranco Ferré’s ‘Doing some Dior’ and from John Galliano’s dramatic flair to the ‘rare pearl’ Raf Simons, diligently “restoring the old aristocracy in the Dior hierarchy” with his touch of poetic modernity; seven decades and six creative directors down the line, the brand’s had an eventful journey, establishing itself as the world’s most celebrated luxury brand, time and again. In an elaborate and detailed account, it includes rare images from runways, studio and events, with a compelling assemblage of Dior collections and its editorial features.

A DOG’S PURPOSE The engaging tale of a dog determined to understand the purpose of his existence, this book offers a hilarious insight into the doggy perspective. Cameron charts the protagonist’s journey across several reincarnations, on his quest to unravel a mystery even humankind hasn’t solved yet. The author’s moving portrait of the hero, adorable and compassionate as all dogs are meant to be, makes for a delightful and amusing read with very strong emotive accents to it. Throughout various walks of his furry life, from being a rescued stray Toby to Ethan’s best friend Bailey and from search-andrescue star Ellie to being Buddy, a pet abandoned on the street, this furball sincerely fulfills the duties of all his lives but keeps up the search for his ‘purpose’. It is not until his last life that he fully understands it. He’s found it but can he fulfill it? by W. Bruce Cameron

L’Officiel

Decor

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WESTERN WIND

Forget all that you know about the 16th arrondissement: La Rotonde de la Muette, a beautiful house reviewed and refurbished this summer by a duo of the most well-known architects from New York, bringing back cool to a neighbourhood that all of Paris had forgotten.

Area: A deliciously bourgeois institution, at the end of the Rue de Passy. Opened thirty years ago by the Bénézet family and completely redone this summer, this brasserie is the starting point of the beautiful fauna of the 16th Parisian arrondissement, which serves a cocktail to start an evening, a late dinner or breakfast after an all-nighter in the expensive spots the golden triangle. Menu: An upgraded bistro, taken on by the young Sebastien Carabeux, trained at Alan Ducasse’s restaurant, worked at Spoon, Rech or Goumard. Having perfectly mastered social foods

bettered by a special attention to seasonal produce. The delectable: Sunday lamb leg, traditional beef stew or steamed organic salmon to order with a green juice for a healthy touch. A good reference for the everything from home, the sauce of the cheeseburger and the Aubrac beef come from their family farm. Décor: An event on its own. Conceived by the New York firm of Roman and Williams, who completed their first French project here. To their credit, the Ace and Standard restaurants or, more recently, The Row boutique on the Upper East side and the private apartment of Gwyneth Paltrow,

also other works in several cities such as Istanbul and Milan. This time the duo comprising Robin Standefer and Stephen Alesch revisited, without a misstep, the flavour of a French brasserie from an Art deco inspiration, with its muted spaces hidden behind the audience, its bar drowned in the backlighting, its traditional high ceilings and its game of mirrors between softened lighting and daylight very skilfully angled. La Rotonde de la Muette, 12 chaussée de la Muette, Paris 16th . www.rotondemuette.paris

Photos Matthieu Salvaing

BY EUGÉNIE ADDA

L’Officiel

Glam Nights

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CHIVAS-TICATED AFFAIR Dressed in all black were some of Delhis’ finest celebrating a collaboration between Chivas and five pioneers of the fashion and lifestyle community. Sunil Sethi, Vinod Nair, Kalyani Saha, Ashish Soni and Susanne Khan. Each of whom displayed elaborate installations expressing their foray into their respective fields. The highlight of the evening was that each of the five curators were inventors of their own flavours of Chivas cocktails. 3

1. Tanisha Mohan and Varun Bahl. 2. Vijay Arora, Sheetal Mafatlal, Riddhima Kapoor Sahani, Rohit Bal and Gunita Sodhi.. 3. Saba Ali, Suneet Varma and friend. 4. AD Singh. 5. Vinod Nair, Ashish Soni, Sussanne Khan, Kalyani Saha and Sunil Sethi. 6. Suhel Seth. 7. Rajiv Makhni and friends.

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THE RAJA OF ART

The Capital saw a night of elegance with a Sothebyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s exhibit of South Asiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s finest artistes.Grace and beauty ran through the paintings and on to the guests as they came dressed in outfits reminiscing the Raja Ravi Varma muse.The event saw many art connoisseurs, collectors, designers in attendance at the Leela Palace New Delhi, home to the temporary exhibit showcasing artworks by other prominent artists such as M. F. Husain, Paresh Maity as well as Francis Newton Souza. 4

1. Abha Dalmia & Gauri Agarwal. 2. Amit Burman, Annie Kanwar & Raaja Kanwar. 3. Lekha Poddar. 4. Gaurav Bhatia & Aveek Sarkar. 5. Nasreen Qureshi & Edward Gibbs. 6. Pooja Singhal, Tarun Tahiliani, Samir Saran, Samrath Bedi. 7. Paresh Maity & Jayasri Burman. 8. Javed Abdullah, Yamini Mehta & Anupam Poddar.

L’Officiel

Glam Nights

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ATHLETIC AESTHETIC

Athleisure took on a new arena at the launch party for The Masaba for Koovs collection at Luna Nudo at the St. Regis, Mumbai. The event saw a street dance performance and a lot of the seriously cool ones from the city’s social circle. Liquor flowing, people dancing, the mood was set just right for that night!

7 5 6

1.Nishka Lulla. 2. Shibani Dandekar. 3. Kanika Kapoor. 4. Masaba Gupta. 5. Zaheer Khan. 6. Amyra Dastur. 7. Mandana Karimi. 8. Akshara Haasan.

L’Officiel

Addresses AERIN www.aerin.com

BOTANIFIQUE www.botanifique.com

ARKISH JEWELS BY VIBHA GUPTA www.arkishjewels.com

BOTTEGA VENETA 111A, DLF Emporio Mall, Nelson Mandela Marg, New Delhi, 011-4609 8262.

ALDO Select Citywalk, Saket, New Delhi, 011-42658363.

BUCCELLATI www.buccellati.com

ANISSA KERMICHE www.anissakermiche.com

BURBERRY 241, First Floor, DLF Emporio, Vasant Kunj, New Delhi, 011-46529850.

AUDEMARS PIGUET www.audemarspiguet.com AURELIE BIDERMANN www.aureliebidermann.com AVON M.40, Outer Circle, Connaught Circus, Block M, Connaught Place, New Delhi, 011-4753 5040.

CONTOUR STUDIO www.contour-studio.com

BOUCHERON www.boucheron.com

ALICE + OLIVIA www.aliceandolivia.com

AQUAZZURA www.aquazzura.com

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BYREDO www.byredo.eu CALZEDONIA www.calzedonia.com CARTIER Ground Floor, DLF Emporio, Vasant Kunj, New Delhi, 011-46788888.

COURREGES www.courreges.com Cutler and Gross www.cutlerandgross.com DANNIJO www.dannijo.com DAVID MALLETT AT THE RITZ PARIS www.ritzparis.com DECLÉOR www.decleor.com DÉJÀ VU www.dejavu-cosmetics.com DIOR HORLOGERIE 3/40, Mohan Mansion, Shahid Bhagat Singh Road, Ballard Estate, Mumbai, 022 2270 2770.

BALENCIAGA www.balenciaga.com

DJULA www.djula.fr Dolce & Gabbana www.dolcegabbana.com ELLERY www.ellery.com EMPORIO ARMANI 202A, DLF Emporio Mall, 4 Nelson Mandela Marg, Vasant Kunj, New Delhi, 011 4160 1888. ERMANNO SCERVINO www.ermannoscervino.it CAUDALIE www.caudalie.com CÉLINE www.celine.com CHANEL HORLOGERIE E/62, Jay Apartment, Opposite Santoshi Mata Temple, Kandivali West, Shivaji Road, Off Mahatma Gandhi Road, Kandivali West, Mumbai, 022-2801 7909. CHRISTOPHER KANE www.christopherkane.com COACH Palladium, 462, High Street Phoenix, Senapati Bapat Marg, Level 1, Lower Parel, Mumbai, 090041 06341.

ESHVI www.eshvi.co.uk FENDI 143, Ground Floor, DLF Emporio Mall, Nelson Mandela Marg, Vasant Kunj Phase 2, New Delhi, 011-4604077. FERNANDO JORGE www.fernandojorge.co.uk FURLA 7C& 8A, Ground Floor, Select City Walk, Saket, New Delhi, 011-4132 1483. GAUCHÈRE www.gauchere-paris.com GAURI AND NAINIKA 560, Lado Sarai, New Delhi, 011-41055416.

L’Officiel

Addresses

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GERARD DAREL www.gerarddarel.com

JOSHUA SANDERS www.joshua-sanders.com

MONIES www.monies.dk

GIORGIO ARMANI 124 Ground Floor, DLF Emporio, Nelson Mandela Marg, Vasant Vihar, New Delhi, 011-41027122.

JUDITH LEIBER 425, III Floor, DLF Emporio, Vasant Kunj II, New Delhi, 011-46098269.

MOSCHINO www.moschino.com

GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI www.giuseppezanottidesign.com GOLDEN GOOSE DELUXE BRAND www.goldengoosedeluxebrand.com GUCCI 105 & 106 DLF Emporio, Vasant Kunj Phase II, New Delhi, 011-46471111. HARRY WINSTON 244, First Floor, DLF Emporio, Vasant Kunj II, New Delhi. HERMÈS 201, First Floor, DLF Emporio Mall, Nelson Mandela road, Vasant Kunj, New Delhi, 011 4360 7780.

KAREN WALKER www.karenwalker.com KENZO www.kenzo.com KRISTALS COSMETICS www.kristals.com LA MER www.cremedelamer.com LAI DESIGNS Ring Road, Siddhartha Enclave, Sunlight Colony, New Delhi. LANCER www.lancerskincare.com

HUEMN STUDIO Saiyad ul Ajaib, Sainik Farm, New Delhi, 011-65000173.

LANCÔME 112B, DLF Promenade, Nelson Mandela Road, Vasant Kunj II, New Delhi, 011-41677741.

HUNKEMÖLLER Ground Floor, Mall of India, Sector 18, Noida, 012 06714858.

LOEWE Lane No. V-40, Ambience Island, DLF Phase 3, Sector 24, Gurugram, Haryana.

ISABEL MARANT www.isabelmarant.com

LONGCHAMP 244, First Floor, DLF Emporio, Vasant Kunj II, New Delhi.

JACQUEMUS www.jacquemus.com JAY STRONGWATER 202, First Floor, DLF Emporio, Nelson Mandela Marg, Vasant Kunj II, New Delhi, 011-40501974. JIMMY CHOO Shop No 144, Ground Floor, DLF Emporio, Vasant Vihar, New Delhi, 011-46609069.

LORO PIANA www.loropiana.com LOUIS VUITTON No. 101& 102, DLF Emporio, Nelson Mandela Road, DLF Place, Vasant Kunj, New Delhi, 011-46690000. MAISON MARGEILA www.maisonmargeila.com MALONE SOULIERS www.malonesouliers.com MANSUR GAVRIEL www.mansurgavriel.com MARC JACOBS www.marcjacobs.com MARNI www.marni.com MICHAEL KORS Palladium, Ground Floor, 462, Tulsi Pipre Road, Lower Parel, Mumbai, 022-40048040. MIU MIU www.miumiu.com

MSGM www.msgm.it NARS COSMETICS www.narscosmetics.com NIKHIL THAMPI Off Nehru Road, Nr Domestic Airport, Vileparle East, Mumbai. NIMAI 416 Shahpurjat Village, Gora Lane -1, Near Dada Jungi House Lane, New Delhi, 011-64300113. NINA RICCI www.ninaricci.com NIRAV MODI D-33, Varun Marg, Defence Colony, New Delhi, 011-40047000. NYX COSMETICS A-3 District Centre, Saket, New Delhi, 011-42114200. OF RARE ORIGIN www.ofrareorigin.com OLGANA PARIS www.olganaparis.com OSCAR TIYE www.oscartiye.com PANKAJ & NIDHI Kila, Seven Style Mile, Kalka Das Marg, Near Qutub Minar, Mehrauli, 011-65455585.

Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Officiel

Addresses

PAUL SMITH Shop No.212, 1st Floor, DLF Emporio, Vasant Vihar, New Delhi, 011-46040734. PIAGET DLF Emporio, Vasant Kunj, New Delhi, 011-46662811.

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ROMAIN COLORS www.romaincolors.fr

SUZANNE KALAN www.suzannekalan.com

ROSANTICA www.rosantica.com

SYLVIO GIARDINA www.sylviogiardina.com THALGO www.thalgo.in

PRADA www.prada.com

THE ATELIER BLANC www.latelierblanc.com THE ROW www.therow.com TOM FORD DLF Emporio, Nelson Mandela Marg, Vasant Kunj II, New Delhi, 011-41033059. TRUSSARDI www.trussardi.com URIBE www.studiouribe.co.uk VALENTINO www.valentino.com VAN CLEEF & ARPELS www.vancleefarpels.com WANDA NYLON www.wandanylon.fr ZADIG & VOLTAIRE www.zadig-et-voltaire.com SAINT LAURENT www.ysl.com SALON CHRISTOPHE ROBIN www.christophe-robin.com

PROENZA SCHOULER www.proenzaschouler.com RAG & BONE www.rag-bone.com REBECCA MINKOFF www.rebeccaminkoff.com REPOSSI www.repossi.com RICK OWENS www.rickowens.eu ROBERT CLERGERIE www.robertclergerie.com

Salvatore Ferragamo Shop No. 121&221, DLF Emporio, 4 Nelson Mandela Road, New Delhi, 011-46609084. SANTONI www.santonishoes.com SELF-PORTRAIT www.self-portrait-studio.com SHIHARA www.shihara.com SOLANGE AZAGURY-PARTRIDGE www.solange.co.uk SONIA RYKIEL www.soniarykiel.com

ROBERTO CAVALLI 132, DLF Emporio, Vasant Kunj, New Delhi, 011-46960000.

STELLA MCCARTNEY www.stellamccartney.com

ROHIT GANDHI + RAHUL KHANNA D-15, Ground Floor, Defence Colony, New Delhi, 011-46632636.

STUART WEITZMAN Palladium Social, Palladium, High Street Phoenix, Mumbai, 022-43475111.

ZIMMERMANN www.zimmermannwear.com

L’Officiel ARIES (March 21 - April 19) March is a good period to focus on your work and implement any new growth plans. Your career house is very powerful this month. Success would follow you if you work hard enough. It’s time to focus on your inner strength and carry out your work. This month will be a time to build greater and deeper relationships with your family.

TAURUS (April 20 - May 20) You’ll feel frustrated this month, and it’ll affect both your physical and mental health. When these things happen, it is important to give yourself some loving attention and not be too hard on yourself. Your financial outlook is great, and now would be a great time to take a financial risk if you can afford to do so. Things will be good for you in the health sector.

GEMINI (May 21 - June 20) Now is a good time to make any major financial decisions. Things will go great at work, and you may find that any issues you have been working through will resolve themselves in a positive way this month. This month might pose a few problems for you as far as your health is concerned. Daily exercise will improve your health and keep diseases at bay.

CANCER (June 21 - July 22) While February is likely to have been crazy busy, things do scale back a little this month, though expect to have your work hat on 24/7. This month will offer you a bevy of glorious aspects to take action on romantic and creative goals. It will be good for you to take proper care of your health and don’t avoid it for your work, because health is wealth.

LEO (July 23 - August 22) You’ll be very self-sufficient and independent this month. You’ll

Horoscope have a very strong intuition about what to do next in a tricky situation. Earnings will be high this month, which will please you, though you may be tempted to spend more on frivolities that you don’t really need. Your health will be at its best and your energy levels at a premium.

VIRGO (August 23 - September 22) Financially, this month will be average for you. You’ll struggle with some financial issues, but worrying about them will not solve the problem. Working through your problems is the only way to solve them. Pretending that everything is okay will only cause more distress. Keep your ego under control and things will continue to be positive for you.

LIBRA (September 23 - October 22) Compared to previous months the planetary activity in your income sector this month is fairly tame but also mundane. If you are looking for ways to make extra money, find ways to incorporate something from your past. This month is a time for new possibilities in your relationships with your loved ones. Mental expansion and great intellectual growth comes to you now.

SCORPIO (October 23 - November 21) Group activities and joint efforts are the best way to accomplish your goals this month. You’ll feel positive and upbeat about facing the future. Skin problems and allergy may trouble you this month. If you are looking for a new job, it is just around the corner. Keep your eyes open.

SAGITTARIUS (November 22 - December 21) You must take extra effort to balance your personal and professional life, because the tendency to abandon one for the other is an obvious feature on the map of this month. Your professional life looks good this month.

175 Something good will happen, whether it is your promotion, new responsibilities, or just recognition for the hard work you do.

CAPRICORN (December 22 - January 19) There is a very real chance that March is going to feel very different and you will notice it from the very early days. Prepare for many things in your life to be heightened, enhanced and made better. Your marital life will be little bit disturbed this month. Tensions and misunderstandings will make your relation sour with your partner.

AQUARIUS (January 20 - February 18) Things will ease up on the career front this month but will definitely not be going off the boil. Your family has been there for you in the past, but you may not be able to count upon them this month. A family situation may become the source of high drama in your home, but don’t take it too seriously.

PISCES (February 19 - March 20) This month things will become confusing at work. Ask questions if you need things cleared up, but understand that you may just have to be patient. Things will clear up after this month, so stay calm and keep doing what you need to do. Your monetary income will remain steady and predictable and you will be able to see how your past financial planning has paid dividends.

BY JAI MADAAN

L’Officiel

Big Deal

176

BIG DEAL There is no doubt that retro trends in furniture are back in a big way! When faith, worship and style meet, the rooms exude one-of-a-kind charm. In Kolkata-based Scarlet Splendour’s latest collection Mandala, luxury continues to be the focus. A mandala encapsulates the soul of the world. It enhances the living spaces and connects the ordinary to the extraordinary. Matteo Cibic’s Mandala collection stuns the senses with its opulent forms and riot of colours. The debut product, a cabinet Lotus Sanctum, is inspired by the “purity of the lotus” with use of burnished brass walls on the inside and resin inlay on the outside. It is crowned by a layered dome and adorned with prints and patterns you would find on a mandala that impart a sense of spirituality to the design. This piece roughly about 140 cm in height and 90 cm in width is reminiscent of movies of the silent era, classic yet fun and a pleasure to return to. Collecting things that you love and are authentic to you, helps your house become your story. Product: Lotus Sanctum cabinet by Scarlet Splendour. Price: `9,80,000/-

TEXT BY BHAVYA GARKEMUKHU

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