France 9th Ed. by Lonely Planet

“ All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

PAGE

PLAN YOUR TRIP

PAGE

Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions

to help you put together your perfect trip

4 13 14 16 17 20 23 29 34

18 TOP

ON THE ROAD

TOP EXPERIENCES MAP Lille, Flanders & the Somme p153 p134

Need to Know

BELGIUM GERMANY

LUXEMBOURG

_ # PARIS

estivities d, it’s time nnies wds on out once but this onth. On ean, mild wonderful part of ad busy year.

Michel • # Chambord

LIECHTENSTEIN

# Chenonceau •

SWITZERLAND ATLANTIC OCEAN ITALY • #

Bordeaux Pont du Gard • # Nîmes • #

SPAIN

• #

_ # MONACO

• #

Carcassonne ANDORRA

Nice

St-Tropez

Mediterranean Sea

Corsica (France)

ki! skis or e slopes. ps, Pyreen mid- to ut January French nest

Currency

Language

» Euro (€)

» French

The Loire Valley

he latest buzzword in the capital is néo-bistro (new bistro), a small, casual address serving utstanding cuisine under the tutelage of a talented (and often ‘name’) chef. Take Christian ant’s Les Cocottes (p112), a stone’s throw from the EiՖel Tower, or Jadis (p111), hidden on a known street in middle-of-nowhere 15e. Tables are jammed as tight as ever, dishes of the day ill h lk d th bl kb Budget d d up i i toi j t i l tf i di t

Your Daily Budget

» Double room in a budget hotel: €50–€70

22/11/2010 9:34:20 AM

# French Alps GO late Dec–early Apr (skiing) or Jun & Jul (hiking)

February

March

Crisp cold weather in the mountains – lots of China-blue skies now – translates as the ski season in top gear. Alpine resorts get mobbed by families during the February school holidays and accommodation is at its priciest; don’t turn up without a reservation.

The tail end Warm to hot summers, mild winters Warm to hot summers, cold winters season stay Mild year-round Mild summers, cold winters thanks to oPolar climate holidaysHigh (un Season Shoulder (Jul & Aug) (Apr-Jun & Sep) March) and » Accommodation » Queues at big rates drop in sights and on the that no road, long southern France and especially other hot spots August purple. Dow » Spring: warm » Christmas, New weather, flowers, Year and Easter the firstequally bubusy local produce » The vendange to » Late December herald the s March is high season (grape harvest) is reason to visit in in French Alpine ski bullfighting Autumn resorts depending o Pâques (Eas

While northern France shivers, Nice makes the most of its mild Mediterranean climate with this

French Riviera GO Apr–Jun, Sep & Oct

p594

Corsica # GO Apr–Jun, Sep & Oct

Low Season (Oct-Mar) » Prices up to 50% less than high season » Sights, attractions and restaurants open fewer days and shorter hours

» Double room in a midrange hotel: €70–€175 » Lunch menus (set meals) in gourmet restaurants: €20–€40

Top end over

» Lower weekend rates in business hotels

p632

No fe sions in Fran blazing more

p681

p434

p704

Provence p752

The French Riviera & Monaco p817

p659

No place screams ‘France!’ more than Paris. Spend two days in the capital, allowing for plenty of time between iconic sights to lounge on café terraces, dine in Parisian bistros and take romantic strolls along the Seine and Canal St-Martin (see Paris in Two Days, p###). Day three, enjoy Renaissance royalty at Château de Chambord and Château de Chenonceau in the Loire. Or skip this fabled valley, which gives such a fabulous nod to French architecture, and spend two days in Normandy instead, marvelling at Rouen’s Notre Dame cathedral, the Bayeux Tapestry, sea-splashed Mont St-Michel and – should modern history be your love – the D-Day landing beaches. Day Àve venture south through the Bordeaux wine region, staying overnight in an ecofriendly chambre d’hôte in Bordeaux’s old wine-merchant quarter and perhaps enrolling perhaps in a wine-tasting course at the Maison du Vin de Bordeaux. Then it’s a three-hour drive to the walled city of Carcassonne, Roman Nîmes and the Pont du Gard. Finish on the French Riviera with a casino Áutter in Grace Kelly’s Monaco, a portside aperitif in Brigitte Bardot’s St-Tropez and a stroll around Matisse’s Nice.

Corsica p867

8/11/2010 3:06:45 PM

UNDERSTAND 897 FRANCE PAGE

05-month-by-month-fra9.indd 20

France Today .................. History ............................. The French ...................... Bon Appétit ..................... French Wine .................... The Arts........................... Architecture .................... Lyrical Landscapes ........

p461

Lyon & the Rhône Valley

The Pyrenees

10 Days

Essential France

06-itineraries-fra9.indd 23

French Alps & the Jura Mountains

French Basque LanguedocCountry Toulouse Area Roussillon

8/11/2010 2:57:57 PM

Féri

p521

p546

€200

» Double room in a top-end hotel: €70–€175

» Top restaurant dinner: menu €50, à la carte €100–€150

02-need-to-know-fra9.indd 14

Limousin, the Dordogne & the Lot

€100€200

p390

Massif Central

» Set lunches: €10–€15

Midrange

Burgundy

p349

Atlantic Coast

» Dorm bed: €15–€40

Paris GO May & Jun

» Free admission to many attractions first Sunday of month

z Nice Carnival

p42

p232 tro Dining, Paris

Whether you’ve got five days or 50, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet. com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.

Bay of Biscay

p191

Brittany

00-top-experience-fran9.indd 4

• # Mont St-

_ Champagne Alsace & # Lorraine Paris p278 p301

Normandy

€100

English Channel (La Manche) D-Day Landing Beaches • # • # Rouen • # Golfe de Bayeux St-Malo

and insider tips

Around Paris

Brittany & Normandy GO Apr–Sep

ENGLAND

In-depth reviews, detailed listings

EXPERIENCES

When to Go

itineraries

YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE

OLIVER KNIGHT/ALAMY

18 Top Experiences ........ Welcome to France ........ Need to Know ................. What’s New ..................... If You Like... ..................... Month by Month ............. Itineraries ........................ Travel with Children ....... Regions at a Glance .......

YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT

898 901 918 924 931 935 942 947

GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP

Learn about the big picture, so you 8/11/2010 3:02:06 PM

can make sense of what you see

if France were 100 people tri es e y Celtic Arverni tribe chief Vercing resent-day Clermont-Ferrand. For the next the so-called Gallic Wars, the Gauls houn e i a warfare and stood up to them in severa

c 30,000 BC During the Middle Palaeolithic Period, Cro-Magnon people start decorating their homes in the Vézère Valley of the Dordogne with colourful scenes of animals, human Àgures and geometric

SURVIVAL 953 GUIDE PAGE

Directory A–Z ................. Transport ........................ Language ........................ Index ................................ Map Legend ....................

954 971 984 994 1013

77 would live in cities 23 would live in rural areas

YOUR AT-A-GLANCE REFERENCE

How to get around, get a room, stay safe, say hello

Transport GETTING THERE & AWAY

Flights, tours and rail tickets can be booked online at lonelyplanet.com/bookings.

Entering the Country Entering France from other

Tillé), Bergerac, Béziers, Biarritz, Brest, Brive-Vallée de la Dordogne, Caen, Carcassonne, Deauville, Dinard, Grenoble, La Rochelle, Le Touquet, Limoges, Montpellier, Nîmes, Pau, Perpignan, Poitiers, Rennes, Rodez, StÉtienne, Toulon and Tours. Relevant local airports, including those on Corsica, are listed in destination

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Nicola Williams, 32-history-fra9.indd 901

8/11/2010 3:19:30 PM

Alexis Averbuck, Oliver Berry, Stuart Butler, Jean-Bernard Carillet, Kerry Christiani, Steve Fallon, Emilie Filou, Catherine Le Nevez, Tom Masters, Daniel Robinson, Miles Roddis, John A Vlahides

^ #

Plymouth

150 km 100 miles

LONDON

_ #

# Dover ^ # \ # \

Cassel

· /

Reims & Épernay Taste bubbly in ancient cellars (p280 & p289)

# Cologne ]

Paris Ascend the iconic Eiffel Tower (p75)

GERMANY

100m

200m

500m

1000m

1500m

2000m

2500m

3000m

ELEVATION

Top Experiences ›

Paris Dine well at the best bistros (p105)

BRUSSELS # _

The Hague ^ #

# _

Lille ] # BoulogneBELGIUM sur-Mer Arras Au # \ th i e So mm \ # St-Quentin e Amiens # \ A28

# \

Calais

# \

Dunkirk

NORTH SEA

Chartres See Chartres blue in a fine cathedral (p149)

The Loire Valley Relive the Renaissance at royal châteaux (p349)

ENGLAND

33 33 33

100 km Vitoria 50 miles

\ #

Corsica

°E 9°E 9°

\ Propriano # Proprian \ # Sartène Sartèn èn

\ Ajacc Ajaccio #

42°N

Aléria

PortoVecchio \ Bonifacio 10°E #

\ #

CORSICA

\ #

Corte

33 3

Porto Les # \ \# Ca ala lan # Calanques \ Car Ca rg Cargèse

‚

Île Cap Corse Rousse # \ Bastia ^ #

· /

A11 · /

Le Mans

# ]

A28 / ·

^ # Alençon

# \

Blois

# \

A10 / ·

# Orléans ]

# \

A10 / ·

# \

\ Poitiers #

# Limoges \

A20 · /

# \

Guéret

· /

# \

Épernay

· /

# ]

# \

· /

# \

· /

Vichy

# ]

Dijon

Châtillonsur-Seine

# \

Beaune

# \

Sélestat

# \

# ]

# Mulhouse \ Basel # Belfort \

# \

^ #

Obernai

Strasbourg

# \

Colmar

Baccarat

# \

Nancy

# # \ \

Yvoire

# Métabief \

Dole

å #

Évian-les-Bains Thonon-les-Bains

Lausanne

] #

# \

Les Portes Chamonix du Soleil \ Annecy \ # # # R \ Rhône Aix-lesMegève Mont Blanc # Lyon ^ # Bains \ (4810m)

Roanne

# \

Mâcon

A6 · /

Le Creusot

# \

Cluny\ #

# \

Autun

A31 · /

# ]

Alsace Tour through vines Metz and villages (p316)

# LUXEMBOURG _

Chamonix Besançon Ski, bike and hike # ] A86 · this Alpine resort (p467) /

Chaumont

# Verdun \

CÔTE D'OR

Avallon

# Bibracte \

# \

Chablis

# \

Tonnerre

# \

Reims

Troyes] #

Vézelay \ #

A71

# \

# ]

Laon

A4 · / rne

Auxerre

A6 · /

S ei n

A5 · /

#PARIS _

Versailles

# \

Chambord # Cheverny # \ Tours Vouvray \ # \ # Amboise Loi Langeais \ #\ ] re ## \ # \ Chenonceaux # \ Villandry Saumur \ # # \ Chinon Loches

Zaragoza ^ #

# \

SPAIN

· /

Cognac

Vignemale (3298m)

^ # Pamplona

d d e t da este ’s p U s t orld ts p w ee ma the str t on kies c tri

\ Calvi # Piana

0 0

44°N

# \

Metz View modern art at the Centre Pompidou (p339)

# _

Perpignan

MEDITERRANEAN SEA

42°N

To Corsica (50km, see inset)

LIGURIAN SEA

The Three Corniches Drive a trio of coastal cliff-hangers (p856)

Pont du Gard See the highest aqueduct in the Roman Empire (p712)

Lyon Feast in France’s gastronomic capital (p435)

# Collioure R\ Puig Neulós

# ]

A9 · /

^ # Barcelona

Carcassonne Linger in the spectacular walled city (p727)

ANDORRA LA VELLA

Monte Perdido (3355m)

· /

Thiers # A72 # \ Aubusson Riom \ # Puy de Dôme R ] (1465m) Clermont# # \ Soulac- \ Angoulème # Ambert R Ferrand \ # Vienne \ Chambéry sur-Mer Puy de Sancy Uzerche \ # \ # A48 La Chaise(1885m) St-Étienne Brantôme ITALY N10 # \ \ # Dieu Brive-laAlpe# Grenoble ] # Périgueux \ Murat # Gaillarde \ Is \ # \ # d'Huez Lacanau- \ R A49 re # è # \ z Sarlat-la Océan # Sestriere ] Puy Mary St-Émilion c Vé # \ Le Puy# D ra \ # D ordogne \ # \ (1787m) # Canéda \ # \ ^ # Briançon en-Velay e Valence r Bay of Les EyziesArcachon Bordeaux è Bergerac y # \ Tru # \ Figeac Biscay # de-Tayac \ Provence A7 D921 # \ Dune Mont Lozère Monpazier Explore medieval # (1699m) Mende \ du Pilat Mont # \ R hilltop villages (p752) Vaison-la- Ventoux Cahors # \ A70 # Florac \ (1909m) Romaine \ # Villefranche de R Moissac # D933 Rouergue # Orange \ Dune du Pilat # \ Carpentras Alès \ #Millau \ Castellane # \ # Montauban \ Climb Europe’s largest # Nice de Vaucluse # Condom \ # Fontaine ] Pont du Gard \ St-Paul # \ A75 # Albi \ # \ # \ r # Menton \ n sand dune (p630) Apt # Avignon de Vence _ Nîmes ] ## # ] \ # # Salon de Provence Grasse \ Arles \ # MONACO # \ Castres Bayonne # Auch \ #] # ] # Biarritz\ # \ Montpellier ] # A64 Pa Cannes] # \ #\ # \ Antibes Les StesAix-en# \ Toulouse St-Jean \ # # \ Aigues \ Fréjus # Maries # \ # Ainhoa \ Provence Béziers de Luz St-Raphaël A64 Mortes # Pau \ # \ # \ # Sète \ A61 ^ # de la Mer #Tarbes \ #\ St-Étienne \ # St-Jean St-Tropez # \ Agde # \ Marseille # \ ] # # Lourdes \ de Baïgorry Pied de Hyères Carcassonne Narbonne Toulon Port 43°N Cauterets ^ #

La Rochelle

# \

A83 / ·

2°E

A d o ur

3°E

45°N

^ #

A11 / · Nantes

N137 · /

Angers

^ # Rennes

# Montaigu \

Vannes

Carnac Cycle past mysterious megaliths (p263)

# ]

Dinan

Chartres

# Dreux ]

Ar iège

5°E

4°E

èr

46°N

ATLANTIC OCEAN

Belle Île

# Carnac ]

# Josselin \

CarhaixPlouguer

# ]

Bernay

Andelys Vernon ] ## ] Giverny

‚

47°N

# ]

Concarneau

Quimper ^ #

# ]

Caen Lisieux

# ]

Ch e

6°E

Presqu'île de Crozon

# ]

Morlaix

A84 · /

^ #

A ll

‚

# Brest ]

# Coutances \

# ]

A1 · / Le Havre Rouen # ] Honfleur^ Compiègne # # # ] Bayeux Beauvais \ A13 # ] · \# Les Chantilly \# # Ouistreham / ]

Cancale # St-Malo ] # ] Ü # #] Dinard Mont St-Michel

# \

Paimpol

Fécamp # \ # Étretat \

7°E

Île d'Ouessant

# \

Roscoff

# ]

Cherbourg

1°E

English Channel (La Manche) Dieppe

n Yon

‚

49°N

Mont St-Michel Stroll the sand at this island abbey (p227)

ine

D-Day Beaches Ponder the price of war (p209)

‚

50°N

3 33 3 3 33 33 3 333 3 33 33 33 33 33 333 33 33 3 333 33 33 33 333 333333 333 333333 3 33 33 3 33 333 3 33 33 33 3 33 3 3 33 3 33 33 33 33 33 3333 3 33 3 33 33 33 33 33 33 33 3 3 33 33 33 3 33 33 3333333 33 33 33 333 33 33 3333 333 3 333 33 333333 33 33

51°N

5°W

0 0

4°W

52°N

3°W

e #

2°W

33 › France 33

ine

V ila

V ie nne

oselle

Sa ône

Rhine

r Ma

Oliver Knight/Alamy

Seven million people visit it annually but few disagree each visit is unique. From an evening ascent amid twinkling lights to lunch at 58 Tour Eiffel (p112) in the company of a staggering city panorama, there are 101 ways to ‘do’ it. Pedal beneath it, skip the lift and hike up, buy a crêpe from a stand here or a key ring from the street, snap yourself in front of it, visit it at night or – our favourite – on the odd special occasion when all 324m of the tower glows a different colour.

Jan Stromme

18 Top

Eiffel Tower

Experiences

Bistro Dining, Paris

The latest buzzword in the capital is néo-bistro (new bistro), a small, casual address serving outstanding cuisine under the tutelage of a talented (and often ‘name’) chef. Take Christian Constant’s Les Cocottes (p112), a stone’s throw from the Eiffel Tower, or Jadis (p111), hidden on a little-known street in middle-of-nowhere 15e. Tables are jammed as tight as ever, dishes of the day are still chalked on the blackboard, and cuisine is just as simple except for one new ingredient – a creative twist. Bistro Le Comptoir du Relais (p110), above

s p To nce n rie pla e p ex help to

Neil Setchfield

Mont St-Michel

The dramatic play of tides on this abbey-island in Normandy is magical and mysterious. Said by Celtic mythology to be a sea tomb to which souls of the dead were sent, Mont St-Michel (p227) is rich in legend and history, keenly felt as you make your way barefoot across rippled sand to the stunning architectural ensemble. Walk around it alone or, better still, hook up with a guide in nearby Genêts for a dramatic day hike across the bay.

Loire Valley Châteaux

5 Greg Elms

If it’s aristocratic pomp and architectural splendour you’re after, this regal valley is the place to linger. Flowing for over 1000km into the Atlantic Ocean, the Loire is one of France’s last fleuves sauvages (wild rivers) and its banks are a 1000year snapshot of French high society. The valley is riddled with beautiful châteaux sporting glittering turrets and ballrooms, lavish cupolas and chapels. If you’re a hopeless romantic seeking the perfect fairy-tale castle, head for moat-ringed Azay-le-Rideau (p376), Villandry and its gardens (left; p374), and lessvisited Beauregard (p364).

Christian Aslund

Elliot Daniel

Champagne

Name-brand Champagne houses like Mumm, Mercier and Moët & Chandon in the main towns of Reims and Épernay, are known the world over. But – our tip – much of Champagne’s best liquid gold is made by almost 5000 smallscale vignerons (winegrowers) in 320-odd villages. Dozens of maisons (Champagne houses) welcome visitors for a taste, tipple and shopping at producer prices, rendering the region’s scenic driving routes (p286) the best way to taste fine bubbly amid rolling vineyards and drop-dead-gorgeous villages. Our favourite: tasting in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and lunch at Le Mesnil (p289).

Adrenalin Kick, Chamonix

Sure, 007 did it, but so can you: the Vallée Blanche (p469) is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. You won’t regret the €70-odd it costs to do the more than 20km off-piste descent from the spike of the Aiguille du Midi to mountaineering mecca Chamonix – every minute of the five hours it takes to get down will pump more adrenalin in your body than anything else you’ve ever done. Craving more? Hurl yourself down Europe’s longest black run, La Sarenne, at Alpe d’Huez (p504).

Need to Know

Currency

Language

»»Euro (€)

»»French

When to Go

Your Daily Budget Budget up to

Brittany & Normandy GO Apr–Sep

€100

»»Dorm bed: €15–€40

Paris GO May & Jun

»»Double room in a budget hotel: €50–€70 »»Free admission to many attractions first Sunday of month

# French Alps GO late Dec–early Apr (skiing) or Jun & Jul (hiking)

French Riviera GO Apr–Jun, Sep & Oct Warm to hot summers, mild winters Warm to hot summers, cold winters Mild year-round Mild summers, cold winters Polar climate

Corsica # GO Apr–Jun, Sep & Oct

High Season (Jul & Aug)

Shoulder (Apr-Jun & Sep)

Low Season (Oct-Mar)

»»Queues at big sights and on the road, especially August

»»Accommodation rates drop in southern France and other hot spots

»»Prices up to 50% less than high season

»»Christmas, New Year and Easter equally busy

»»Spring: warm weather, flowers, local produce

»»Late December to March is high season in French Alpine ski resorts

»»The vendange (grape harvest) is reason to visit in Autumn

»»Sights, attractions and restaurants open fewer days and shorter hours

»»Set lunches: €10–€15

Midrange

€100€200

»»Double room in a midrange hotel: €70–€175

Money

Visas

»»ATMs at every airport, most train stations and every second street corner in towns and cities. Visa, MasterCard and Amex widely accepted.

»»Generally not required for stays of up to 90 days (or at all for EU nationals); some nationalities need a Schengen visa (p969).

Websites

Exchange Rates

»»France Guide (www. franceguide.com) French government tourist office website »»French Word-a-Day (http://french-word -a-day.typepad.com) Fun language learning »»Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet. com/france) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more »»Voyages SNCF (www.voyages-sncf. com) French railways »»France.fr (www. france.fr) The definitive portal on France

Mobile Phones »»European and Australian phones work. Slip in a French SIM card to call with a cheaper French number.

Australia

A$1

0.71

Canada

C$1

0.72

Japan

100

0.88

NZ$1

0.55

UK1

1.17

US$1

0.75

For current exchange rates see www.xe.com

Important Numbers France country code

%33

International access code

%00

Europe-wide emergency

%112

Ambulance (SAMU)

%15

Police

%17

Driving »»Drive on the right; steering wheel is on the left side of the car. Be aware of the potentially hazardous ‘priority to the right’ rule (p979).

Arriving in France

»»Aéroport Roissy Charles de Gaulle (p130) Trains, buses and RER – to Paris centre every 15 to 30 minutes, 5.30am to midnight. Night bus – hourly, 12.30am to 5.30am. Taxis – €45–€60; 30 minutes to Paris centre. »»Aéroport d’Orly (p130) Buses and Orlyval rail – at least every 15 minutes, 6am to 11.30pm. Night bus – hourly, 12.30am to 5.30am. Taxis – €35–€50; 25 minutes to Paris centre.

»»Lunch menus (set meals) in gourmet restaurants: €20–€40

Top end over

€200

»»Double room in a top-end hotel: €70–€175 »»Lower weekend rates in business hotels »»Top restaurant dinner: menu €50, à la carte €100–€150

In France to Shop!

OK, so Paris is the bees knees for luxury goods like haute-couture, high-quality fashion accessories (a Hermès silk scarf, Madame?), lingerie, perfume and cosmetics. Lovely as they are, they most probably aren’t any cheaper to buy in France than at home. Time your trip right and pick up designer and street fashion for a snip of the usual price at France’s sales (soldes), by law held twice a year for three weeks in January and again in July. Other times look for the words degriffés (name-brand products with the labels cut out), bonnes affaires (cut-price deals) and dépôt-vente (secondhand). Find fab factory-outlet shops in Troyes (p298) and Calais (p167).

what’s new Supper Clubs The trend of dining à la maison (at home) has swept Paris gourmets and socialites off their feet – the crème de la crème take you out to dinner at the latest ‘in’ addresses (p42).

Canal St-Martin, Paris The shaded towpaths of this tranquil canal in Paris’ eastern suburbs have undergone a real urban renaissance – enter one of the capital’s hippest areas to drink, dine, stroll and picnic (p88 and p115)

Jadis, L’Agrume & Derrière, Paris This hot trio is among a flurry of top-drawer, casually understated dining spaces to recently woo the capital. Even big-name chefs like Christian Constant and William Ledeuil are at it (p105).

Centre Pompidou-Metz The space-age curves of Metz’ gleaming white modern-art museum, sudden architectural star of the provincial north, is as much a show-stopper as its Parisian big brother (p339).

L’Aventure Michelin, ClermontFerrand Now this is apt: the French tyre company that does so much more than rings of rubber finally tells its tale at this museum – travel has always been a big theme (p524).

Rue Le Bec, Lyon Lyon’s most creative chef proves he’s still on top with his latest groundbreaking venture – a wholly affordable, market-style dining space on the Confluence aka rejuvenated industrial wasteland (p447).

For this new edition of France, our authors have hunted down the fresh, the revamped, the transformed, the hot and the happening. Here are a few of our favourites. For up-to-the-minute reviews and recommendations, see lonelyplanet.com/france.

Brive-Vallée de la Dordogne Airport Our authors have all bases covered, including France’s latest regional airport to open with budget flights between the Dordogne, Paris and London (p560).

Jean Nouvel in Sarlat-la-Canéda Architect of Paris’ Arab World Institute and Musée du Quai Branly is at it again, this time with a panoramic lift inside a village-church-turned-market in the Dordogne (p569).

Gorge Floating Squeeze into a wetsuit, strap a buoyancy bag to your back and float between rocks on green water – this is the new big thrill of Provence’s Gorges du Verdon (p814).

if you like... Fabulous Food

Gourmet appetites know no bounds in France, paradise for food lovers with its varied cuisine, markets and local gusto for dining well. Go to Burgundy for hearty wine-based cooking, Brittany and the Atlantic Coast for seafood and Basque Country for a slice of Spanish spice. Parisian bistros Capital dining embraces everything from checked-tablecloth tradition to contemporary minimalism (p105)

French Riviera Glamour Hôtel Ermitage is the latest hip hotel to swing onto the scene in St-Tropez. It’s hot, it’s edgy, it’s a 1950sdesign must-stay that the celebs love (p850).

Lyon Eating local in France’s gastronomic heart means piggy cuisine in a bouchon (p448)

Mesdames Messieurs, Montpellier Natural and organic wines are increasingly popular in France, as are Languedoc’s sun-blessed vintages. Taste both at this brand new wine bar in the south’s snappiest student city (p720).

Oyster farms Sink oysters fresh from their beds around Arcachon (p628) and Bordeaux (p621) or Breton oyster capital Cancale (p242)

Cité Internationale de la Dentelle et de la Mode, Calais Victorian-era machinery clatters and clanks in Calais to turn thread into lace at this port city’s newest museum – lace is what made Calais a big name in textiles (p165).

Truffles Go to Provence (p753) and the Dordogne (p568) to try this earthy, ink-black delicacy

Basque tapas Proof of just how wildly varied French cuisine is – taste it in Bayonne (p640) or on the seashore (p648) Bouillabaisse Marseille’s mighty meal of fish stew (p767) Munster Tasting, dairy tours and farmstays around this pungent, creamy cheese (p329)

Gorgeous Villages

There is no simpler French pleasure than meandering around quaint villages of gold stone, pink granite, or whitewashed Basque-style. Cobbled lanes twist and turn to sculpted fountains, hidden squares and shuttered houses strung with purple wisteria, vines or drying peppers. Pérouges Day trip it from Lyon for cider and sugar-crusted galettes between yellow-gold medieval stone (p456) St-Émilion A medieval village perched dramatically above a sea of vines in Bordeaux (p624) St-Jean Pied de Port An ancient pilgrim outpost en route to Santiago de Compostela, Spain (p655) Yvoire Château-clad on the southern shore of Lake Geneva, this flowery Savoy village is a privileged address (p480)

Wine Tasting

Be it by tasting in cellars, watching grape harvests or sleeping au château, France’s wine culture requires immediate roadtesting. Bistrot du Sommelier Food and wine are matched by one of the world’s foremost sommeliers at this Parisian bistro (p113) Bordeaux The Medoc, StÉmilion and Cognac set connoisseurs’ hearts a-flutter in this wine-rich region (p619) Burgundy Sample renowned vintages in Beaune (p404) and the Côte d’Or (p401) Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vines planted by 14th-century popes yield southern France’s most illustrious red (p796) Alsace wine route Driving trails in northern France (p316) Vin Jaune Something different: liquid gold in the Jura (p515 and p514)

ing ing n Bandol Wine tasting lanandlaCassis nn villages The Luberon This part of t inpthese two Rivieras p e Medis as Provence is lavishly strewn with ew much r r about the majestic e n o f asinthet wonderful wine drop-dead gorgeous hilltop A onsetting , p771) villages (p805) i (p855 ion g ct time and e e Èze Fuses a stunning hilltop r la Vigne et du Vin de s y Musée village with a sweeping Riviera b aChampagne-making nd traditions panorama – wow! (p857) are the focus of this essentialThe Dordogne Beautiful bastides (fortified towns) at every turn (p563)

stop museum (and great lunch address) in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger (p289)

January

With New Year festivities done and dusted, it’s time to play snow bunnies in the Alps. Crowds on the slopes thin out once school’s back, but this is still a busy month. On the Mediterranean, mild winters cast a wonderful serenity over a part of France that’s mad busy the rest of the year.

2 Vive le Ski!

Grab your skis or board and hit the slopes. Resorts in the Alps, Pyrenees and Jura open mid- to late December, but January is the start of the French ski season in earnest. Whether a vast purposebuilt station or a lost Alpine village, France has a resort to match every mood and moment. Pick from our pick of the pistes on p466.

Hunting Black Diamonds

No culinary product is more aromatic or decadent than black truffles. Snout them out in the Dordogne (southeastern France; see p568) and Provence (southwestern France; see p753) – the truffle-hunting

Festival d’Avignon, July Fête du Citron, February Fête des Lumières, December Fêtes d’Arvor, August Cannes Film Festival, May

season runs late December to March but January is the prime month.

zillion and one lemons from Spain to sculpt into gargantuan carnival characters.

February

March

Crisp cold weather in the mountains – lots of china-blue skies now – translates as the ski season in top gear. Alpine resorts get mobbed by families during the February school holidays and accommodation is at its priciest; don’t turn up without a reservation.

Nice Carnival

While northern France shivers, Nice makes the most of its mild Mediterranean climate with this crazy street carnival (www. nicecarnaval.com), France’s largest. As well as the usual parade and costume shenanigans, merrymakers pelt each other with blooms during Carnaval de Nice’s legendary flower battles.

Citrus Celebrations

No surprise that Menton on the French Riviera was once Europe’s biggest lemon producer, given its exotic Fête du Citron (p858). These days it ships in a

The tail end of the ski season stays busy thanks to ongoing school holidays (until midMarch) and temperatures that no longer turn lips purple. Down south, the first buds of spring herald the start of the bullfighting season and, depending on the year, Pâques (Easter).

Féria Pascale

No fest sets passions in France’s hot south blazing more than this, held each Easter in Arles to open the bullfighting season (www.feriaarles.com, in French). Four days of street dancing, music, concerts al fresco and bullfighting is what this exuberant event is all about. Not all bulls die (see p782).

April

Dedicated ski fiends can carve glaciers in the highest French ski

resorts until mid-April. Otherwise, it’s off with the ski boots, and on with the hiking gear as peach and almond trees flower pink against a backdrop of snow-capped peaks.

z Counting Sheep

During the centuries-old Fête de la Transhumance in late April or May, shepherds across France walk their flocks of sheep up to lush green summer pastures; St-Rémy de Provence’s fest is among the best known. Or head to villages in the Pyrenees (p670) and Massif Central (p536) to see this transit.

May

As the first melons ripen in Provence and outdoor markets burst forth with new-found colour, there is no lovelier month to travel. Spring is in.

z May Day

No one works on 1 May, a national holiday that incites a real summer buzz with its muguets (lilies of the valley) sold at roadside stalls and given to friends as good-luck charms. In Arles, Camargue cowboys show off their bull-herding and equestrian skills at the Fête des Gardians (p782).

des z Pèlerinage Gitans

Roma from all over Europe flock to the Camargue on 24 and 25 May and again in October (nearest Sunday to 22 October) for a flamboyant fiesta of street music, dancing and dipping their toes in the sea (p786; www. gitans.fr, in French).

at z Starring Cannes

In mid-May film stars and celebrities walk the red carpet at Cannes, the biggest of Europe’s cinema extravaganzas (p839; www. festival-cannes.com).

Grand z Monaco Prix How fitting that the most glamorous race of the Formula One season rips around the streets of one of the world’s most glam countries (p861; www.for mula1monaco.com).

June

With the onset of midsummer, France’s festival pace quickens alongside a rising temperature gauge, which tempts the first bathers into the sea. Looking north, nesting white storks shower bags of good luck on farmsteads in Alsace.

de la z Fête Musique

Orchestras, crooners, buskers and bands fill streets and squares with music during France’s vibrant nationwide celebration of music on 21 June (www. fetedelamusique.culture. fr, in French). Free and fab concerts are particularly abundant in Paris, Lyon, Marseille and other big towns and cities.

July

If lavender’s your French love, this is the month to catch it in flower in Provence. But you won’t be the only one. School’s out for the summer, showering the country with teems of tourists, traffic and too many complet (full) signs strung in hotel windows.

z Tour de France

The world’s most prestigious cycling race ends on av des Champs- Élysées in Paris on the third or fourth Sunday of July, but you can catch it for two weeks before all over France – the route changes each year but the French Alps are a hot spot (www.letour.fr).

z Bastille Day

You can join the French in celebrating the storming of the Bastille, 14 July 1789, anywhere really – countrywide there are firework displays, balls, processions, parades and lots of hoo-ha all round.

z Festival d’Avignon

Rouse your inner thespian with Avignon’s legendary performing-arts festivals (p791; www.festival-avi gnon.com). Street acts in its fringe fest are as inspired as those on official stages.

g nin ning n pla plan st ew r tere A n on fo , iNice n Jazz i z Festival e ion g ct tiJive m between ruins e e rcats atRoman s y to jazz this soulful b amusic nd fest in Nice (www. nicejazzfest.fr).

Pl an your Trip M o n t h b y m o n t h

month by month

Top Events

August

Pl an your Trip M o n t h b y m o n t h

It’s that mad summer month when the French join everyone else on holiday. Paris, Lyon and other big cities empty; traffic jams at motorway toll booths test the patience of a saint; and temperatures soar. Avoid. Or don your party hat and join the mad crowd!

to be z Proud Breton

The Fêtes d’Arvor is a passionate celebration of Breton culture. Think street parades, concerts and dozens of authentic festoù-noz (night festivals) spilling across the halftimbered, cobbled Vannes (p269; www.fetes-arvor.org, in French).

Celts Unite!

Celtic culture is the focus of the Festival Interceltique de Lorient (p265; www.festival -interceltique.com), when hundreds of thousands of Celts from Brittany and abroad flock to Lorient to celebrate just that.

September

As sun-plump grapes hang heavy on darkened vines and that August madness drops off as abruptly as it began, a welcome tranquillity falls

across autumnal France. This is the start of France’s vendange (grape harvest).

The Rutting Season

Nothing beats getting up at dawn to watch mating stags, boar and red deer at play. Observatory towers are hidden in woods around Château de Chambord (p361) but when a valley like the Loire is so choc-a-bloc with Renaissance hunting pads, who cares which one?

Braderie de Lille

The mountains of empty mussel shells engulfing the streets after three days of mussel-munching have to be seen to be believed. Then there’s the real reason for visiting Lille the first weekend in September – its huge flea market (p159) is Europe’s largest.

z Beaujolais Nouveau

At precisely the stroke of midnight on the third Thursday in November the first bottles of cherry-red Beaujolais nouveau wine are cracked open – and what a party it can be in Beaujolais, Lyon and other places nearby!

December

It’s nippy now, especially in northern France, where winter is well under way. Toussaint (All Saints’ Day) on 1 November ushers in the switch to shorter, winter opening hours for many sights and monuments. Lots of restaurants close two nights a week now, making dining out on Monday a real challenge in some towns.

Fête des Lumières

France’s biggest and best light show, on 8 December, transforms the streets and squares of Lyon into an open stage (p444; www. lumieres.lyon.fr).

BELGIUM

English Channel (La Manche) D-Day Landing Beaches • # • # Rouen • # Golfe de Bayeux St-Malo

GERMANY

LUXEMBOURG

_ # PARIS

• # Mont St-

Michel

• # Chambord # Chenonceau •

LIECHTENSTEIN SWITZERLAND

ATLANTIC OCEAN ITALY

Alsatian Christ mas Markets

Meandering between fairylight-lit craft stalls, mug of vin chaud (warm mulled wine) in gloved hand, at Alsace’s traditional preChristmas markets, exudes cinematic romance.

ENGLAND

Days are short and it is cold everywhere bar the south of France. But there are Christmas school holidays and festive celebrations to bolster sun-deprived souls, not to mention some season-opening winter skiing in the highest-altitude Alpine resorts from midDecember.

7 November

itineraries

• #

Bordeaux

Pont du Gard • # Nîmes • #

Bay of Biscay

SPAIN

• #

_ # MONACO

• #

Carcassonne ANDORRA

Nice

St-Tropez

Mediterranean Sea

Corsica (France)

10 Days

Essential France No place screams ‘France!’ more than Paris. Spend two days in the capital, allowing for plenty of time between iconic sights to lounge on café terraces, dine in Parisian bistros and take romantic strolls along the Seine and Canal St-Martin (see Paris in Two Days, p46). Day three, enjoy Renaissance royalty at Château de Chambord and Château de Chenonceau in the Loire. Or skip this fabled valley, which gives such a fabulous nod to French architecture, and spend two days in Normandy instead, marvelling at Rouen’s Notre Dame cathedral, the Bayeux Tapestry, sea-splashed Mont St-Michel and – should modern history be your love – the D-Day landing beaches. Day five venture south through the Bordeaux wine region, staying overnight in an ecofriendly chambre d’hôte in Bordeaux’s old wine-merchant quarter and perhaps enrolling in a wine-tasting course at the Maison du Vin de Bordeaux. Then it’s a three-hour drive to the walled city of Carcassonne, Roman Nîmes and the Pont du Gard. Finish on the French Riviera with a casino flutter in Grace Kelly’s Monaco, a portside aperitif in Brigitte Bardot’s St-Tropez and a stroll around Matisse’s Nice.

g g nin nin n pla plan est w e for ter n A ion e, in on gi ct se y tim d re b an

Around Paris

Lille, Flanders & the Somme

Normandy

Brittany

Alsace & Champagne Lorraine

Châteaux PPP Cathedrals PP Green Spaces P

Architecture PP History PPP Coastline PPP

Food PP Coastline PPP Battlefields PPP

Food PP Walking PPP Islands PP

Champagne PPP Walking PP Drives PPP

Battlefields PPP City Life PP Villages PPP

A Taste of Royalty Château de Versailles – vast, opulent and very shimmery – has to be seen to be believed. Fontainebleau, Chantilly and Vauxle-Vicomte are other fabled addresses in French royalty’s little black book.

Flemish Style Breaking for a glass of strong local beer between old-town meanders around extravagant Flemish Renaissance buildings is a highlight of northern France. Lille and Arras are the cities to target.

Calvados & Camembert This coastal chunk of northern France is a pastoral land of butter and soft cheeses. Its exotic fruits: camembert, cider, fiery apple brandy and superfresh seafood.

Crêpes & Cider These two Breton culinary staples are no secret but who cares? Devouring caramel-doused buckwheat pancakes in the company of homemade cider is a big reason to visit Brittany.

Bubbly Tasting Gawp at a Champagne panorama from atop Rheims’ cathedral then zoom in close with serious tasting at the world’s most prestigious Champagne houses in Rheims and Épernay.

Emotional Journeys Surveying the dazzling symmetry of crosses on the Verdun battlefields is painful. Memorials, museums, cemeteries, forts and an ossuary mark out the emotional journey.

Cliffs & Coves Chalk-white cliff to dune-lined beach, rock spire to pebble cove, coastal path to tide-splashed island-abbey Mont St-Michel: few coastlines are as inspiring.

Wild Hikes With its wild dramatic coastline, islands, medieval towns and thick Celtic forests laced in local lore and legend, this proud and fiercely independent region promises exhilarating walks.

Vineyard Trails Nothing quite fulfils the French dream like easy day hikes through neat rows of vineyards, exquisite picture-postcard villages bedecked in flowers and a gold-stone riverside hamlet right out of a Renoir painting.

Urban Icons With the sublime (Strasbourg’s cathedral) to the spaceage (the new Centre Pompidou in Metz), this northeast chunk of France steals urbanite hearts with its city squares, architecture, museums and Alsatian dining.

_ #

Paris Food PPP Art PPP Shopping PPP Gourmet Paradise Monsieur A Boulanger opened the city’s first restaurant, near rue Rivoli, in 1765. Contemporary Parisian dining is an exuberant feast of neighbourhood bistros, old-time brasseries, zinc-bar cafés and starred restaurants. Museums & Galleries All the great masters star in Paris’ extraordinary portfolio of museums. Not all the booty is stashed inside: buildings, metro stations, parks and other public art give Mona a good run for her money. Fashion & Flea Markets Luxury fashion houses, edgy boutiques, Left Bank designer-vintage and Europe’s largest flea market: Paris really is the last word in fabulous shopping.

p42

Sacred Architecture The other heavyweight near Paris is Chartres cathedral, one of Western architecture’s greatest achievements, with stained glass in awesome blue. Paris’ Lungs Parisians take air in thick forests outside the city: Forêt de Fontainebleau, old royal hunting ground, is a hot spot for rock climbing and family walks. Chantilly means manicured French gardens and upperclass horse racing. p134

Gothic to WWI Amiens evokes serene contemplation inside one of France’s most aweinspiring Gothic cathedrals, and emotional encounters in WWI cemeteries. Coastal Capers Hiking along the Côte d’Opale – a wind-buffeted area of white cliff, gold sand and everchanging sea and sky – is dramatic and beautiful, as is a Baie de Somme bicycle ride past lounging seals. p153

D-Day Beaches Normandy has long played a pivotal role in European history. But it was during WWII’s D-Day landings that Normandy leaped to global importance. Museums, memorials, cemeteries and endless stretches of soft golden sand evoke that dramatic day in 1944. p191

Breton Beauties Brittany’s muchloved islands, dotted in black sheep and crossed with craggy coastal paths and windswept cycling tracks, are big draws. Don’t miss dramatic Île d’Ouessant or the very aptly named Belle Île. p232

Majestic Motoring No routes are more geared to motorists and cyclists than the Champagne Routes, fabulously picturesque and wellsignposted driving itineraries taking in the region’s wealthy winemaking villages, hillside vines and traditional cellars.

Chocolate-box ing ing n Villages n nn notlovelier pla pThere la ofisacquainting s w r way e e r e n o oneself with this t f A on , ipart n of France ion fromthan ti me travelling hillg c i e e s y t d rtop castles to storkb an nest-blessed farms,

p278

to half-timbered villages framed by vines.

p301

Pl an your Trip r eg i o n s at a g l a n c e

regions at a glance

See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

Look out for these icons: author’s A green or No payment oOur recommendation Ssustainable option Frequired

On the Road PARIS . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42

PARC NATUREL RÉGIONAL DU MORVAN . . .421

LOWER ATLANTIC COAST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .615

AROUND PARIS . . . . 134

SAÔNE-ET-LOIRE . . . . . . . . 427

LILLE, FLANDERS & THE SOMME . . . . . . . 153

LYON & THE RHÔNE VALLEY . . . . . . . . . . 434

FRENCH BASQUE COUNTRY . . . . . . . . .632

NORMANDY. . . . . . . . 191 EURE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .204

FRENCH ALPS & THE JURA MOUNTAINS . . . . . . . 461

CALVADOS . . . . . . . . . . . . .206

SAVOY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .466

LANGUEDOCROUSSILLON . . . . . .704

MANCHE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225

DAUPHINÉ . . . . . . . . . . . . .496

BAS-LANGUEDOC . . . . . . . 705

SEINE-MARITIME . . . . . . . 194

BRITTANY . . . . . . . . .232

THE JURA MOUNTAINS . . .507

NORTH COAST . . . . . . . . . . 234

MASSIF CENTRAL . . 521

FINISTÈRE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247

CLERMONT-FERRAND & AROUND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 523

MORBIHAN COAST . . . . . . 263

THE PYRENEES . . . .659 TOULOUSE AREA . . . 681

HAUT-LANGUEDOC . . . . . 732 ROUSSILLON . . . . . . . . . . . 742

PROVENCE . . . . . . . . 752 MARSEILLE REGION . . . . . 756

EASTERN & CENTRAL BRITTANY . . . . 271

PARC NATUREL RÉGIONAL DES VOLCANS D’AUVERGNE . . . . . . . . . . . . 531

ARLES & THE CAMARGUE . . . . . . . . 778

CHAMPAGNE. . . . . . . 278

PARC NATUREL RÉGIONAL LIVRADOIS-FOREZ. . . . . . . 538

THE LUBERON . . . . . . . . . .805

ALSACE & LORRAINE . . . . . . . . . 301

LE PUY-EN-VELAY & AROUND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 539

ALSACE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .303 LORRAINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333

THE LOIRE VALLEY 349 ORLÉANAIS . . . . . . . . . . . . 351 BLÉSOIS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 358 TOURAINE. . . . . . . . . . . . . .364 ANJOU . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 379

BURGUNDY . . . . . . . 390 CÔTE-D’OR . . . . . . . . . . . . . 392 YONNE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 411

LIMOUSIN, THE DORDOGNE & THE LOT . . . . . . . . . . 546

THE VAUCLUSE . . . . . . . . . 787 NORTHEASTERN PROVENCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . 811

THE FRENCH RIVIERA & MONACO . . . . . . . . 817

to r ie age s p s Ea CORSICA d t ea you. . . . . . . . . .867 r ATLANTIC COAST. . 594 la LIMOUSIN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 549

THE DORDOGNE . . . . . . . . 563

NICE TO TOULON . . . . . . .820 NICE TO MENTON . . . . . . . 856 MONACO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 859

THE LOT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 585

BASTIA & CAP CORSE . . . 870 70 0

UPPER ATLANTIC COAST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .597 CENTRAL ATLANTIC COAST . . . . . . .602

75 LA BALAGNE . . . . . . . . . . . 8 875 ACCI CIO O . . . . . 879 PORTO TO AJACCIO OUTH UTH TH . . . . . . . . . . . . 887 THE SOUTH COR RTE AREA . . . . . . . . . . . 893 CORTE

Supper Clubs

_ #

Paris

POP: 2.2 MILLION

FOR FIRST TIMERS

Why Go Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47 Activities. . . . . . . . . . . . . .89 Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 Festivals & Events . . . . . . 91 Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . . . .93 Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .105 Drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 Entertainment . . . . . . . . 119 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . .123

Best Places to Eat » Chez Janou (p106) » La Gazzetta (p106) » Chez Michel (p114)

Paris has all but exhausted the superlatives that can reasonably be applied to any city. Notre Dame, the Eiffel Tower, the Seine – at sunrise, sunset, at night – and Left–Right Bank differences have been described countless times. But what writers haven’t quite captured is the grandness and magic of strolling the city’s broad avenues past impressive public buildings and exceptional museums to parks, gardens and esplanades. With more famous landmarks than any other city, the French capital evokes all sorts of expectations: of grand vistas, of intellectuals discussing weighty matters in cafés, of Seine-side romance, of naughty nightclub revues. Look hard enough and you’ll find them all. Or set aside those preconceptions of Paris that are so much a part of Englishspeaking culture, and explore the city’s avenues and backstreets as though the tip of the Eiffel Tower or the spire of Notre Dame weren’t about to pop into view at any moment.

» L’Office (p114) » Café Constant (p111)

Best Places to Stay

Paris °C/°F Temp

Rainfall Inches/mm

40/104

6/150

» Le Relais du Louvre (p94)

30/86

5/125

» Hôtel du Petit Moulin (p94)

20/68

» Hôtel Eldorado (p101)

10/50

4/100 3/75 2/50

0/32

» L’Apostrophe (p99)

-10/14

1/25 0 J

June Music ushers in the summer solstice with France’s Fête de la Musique.

Top 5 Signature Splurges » Sip a cocktail – ideally a Bloody Mary, its own invention – at Harry’s New York Bar (p118)

When to Go

» Hôtel Amour (p104)

You can’t say you’ve been to Paris until you have at least gazed at Madame Eiffel, aka the Eiffel Tower, and strutted the length of av des Champs-Élysées: for an alternative perspective stand below the Arc de Triomphe, in front of the eternal fl ame, as night falls and watch the traffi c surreally rush past. Notre Dame, Christendom’s most beautiful house of worship, can be a mob of picture-snapping infi dels much of the time but attending Mass or a Sunday-afternoon organ concert ensures a moment of peace. Monet’s Water Lilies and Decorations des Nymphéas in the Musée de l’Orangerie provide a great alternative to the busy Louvre. And then there’s the city’s food markets (p107 ), all fabulous (although our favourite is Marché Bastille).

Mid-July to midAugust The Seine riverbank is a sandy beach with sunbeds, parasols and palm trees.

October Nuit Blanche when the city and its museums, bars etc stay awake all night.

» Tuck into a slice of baiser Ladurée (layered almond cake with strawberries and cream) at Ladurée (p113), Paris’ most famous pâtisserie on the Champs-Élysées » Select your open CD compilations at the musically renowned Buddha Bar (p118)

Paris is spit into 20 arrondissements (districts) and addresses always include the arrondissement number – 1er for premier (1st), 2e for deuxième (2nd), 3e for troisième (3rd) etc.

Need to Know » Most Paris museums close Monday, but a dozen-odd including the Louvre and Centre Pompidou close Tuesday instead.

Advance Planning » Book accommodation and reserve tables at fine-dines, modish gastrobistros and supper clubs » Surf Fnac and Virgin Megastore (p119) for bigticket concerts, musicals and theatrical performances » Buy e-tickets for the Eiffel Tower, Louvre and blockbuster exhibitions at the Grand Palais and Centre Pompidou

Resources

to r ie age s Ea d p ts reaayou l

» Have your own personal scent mixed at the renowned parfumerie Fragonard (p112)

» Cruise around town on a vintage Vespa from Left Bank Scooters (p131)

» Mairie de Paris: www. paris.fr » Paris by Mouth: www. parisbymouth.com » Paris Convention & Visitors Bureau: www. parisinfo.com » My Little Paris: www. ww. mylittleparis.com om

PARIS

Jim Haynes’ Sunday dinner in a belle époque atelier in the 14e is the original, but these days, as in so many other world-class cities, supper clubs are popping up like toadstools after rain in the French capital. While dîner chez Jim is less about the food and more about socialising and perhaps even pulling, many of the newer clubs focus on multicourse gastronomic meals or visiting the ‘in’ adresse (restaurant) of the moment with a local foodie – meaning an excellent meal alongside the chance to meet people. Expect to pay from €80 per person and book well in advance. If you don’t snag a spot, check Twitter a few days before your visit: many clubs tweet cancellations and last-minute available places. For our favourite five, see p110.

ARRONDISSEMENTS

If you just want to venerate the Louvre’s most famous lady, use the Porte des Lions entrance, from where it's a Àveminute walk. Go up one Áight of stairs and through rooms 26, 14 and 13 to the Grande Galerie and adjoining room 6.

A HALF-DAY TOUR

Venus de Milo

L'Esprit d'Escalier

Escalier Lefuel, Richelieu Discover the ‘Spirit of the Staircase’ through François Morellet’s contemporary stained glass, which casts new light on old stone. DETOUR» Napoleon III’s gorgeous gilt apartments.

Room 7, Ground Floor, Sully No one knows who sculpted this seductively realistic goddess from Greek antiquity. Naked to the hips, she is a Hellenistic masterpiece.

The Ceiling

U L

Co Cou C o ou our urr u Cour Pu Pug ug uge geet get g et Puget

our Carrée Cour

Cour Marly

Room 32, 1st Floor, Sully Admire the blue shock of Cy Twombly’s 400-sqmetre contemporary cceiling fresco – the Louvre’s latest, daring commiss commission. DETOUR» The Braque Ceiling, room 33.

Cou Cour Khorsabad

Jardin du Carrousel

Cour Napoléon

Rue de Rivoli Entrance

Pyramid Main Entrance Inverted Pyramid

Cour Visconti

du Gaale Galerie a Carrousel Car C Ca arro arrouse ar rrou ell Entrances Ent En ntrances tra rancces Pont des Arts

G NG I IN W W N ON O N N DE DE Porte ttee des des es Lions ions ions ion Entrance t anc trance an e

Pont du Carrousel

Liberty Leading the People

TOP TIPS

Room 77, 1st Floor, Denon Decipher the politics behind French romanticism in Eugène Delacroix’s rousing early 19th-century canvas and Théodore Géricault’s The Raft of the Medusa.

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Virgin & Child d

Room 5, Grande Galerie, 1st Floor, Denon stic devotion save the Louvre’s In the spirit of artistic ry for last: a feast of Virginmost famous gallery and-child paintingss by Raphael, Domenico Ghirlandaio, Giovanni Bellini and Francesco Botticini.

Mona Lisa

Room 6, 1st Floor, Denon No smile is as enigmatic or bewitching as hers. Da Vinci’s diminutive La Joconde hangs opposite the largest painting in the Louvre – sumptuous, fellow Italian Renaissance artwork The Wedding at Cana.

TERRY SMITH/ALAMY

BILL BACHMANN/ALAMY

» Cent saver Visit after 3pm or in the evening when tickets are cheaper » Crowd dodgers The Denon Wing is always packed; visit on late nights Wednesday or Friday or trade Denon in for the notably quieter Richelieu Wing » 2nd floor Not for first-timers: save its more specialist works for subsequent visits » Multimedia guide Worth it, if only to press the ‘Where am I?’ button when lost

Ground Floor, Richelieu Time travel with a pair of winged humanheaded bulls to view some of the world’s oldest Mesopotamian art. DETOUR» Night-lit statues in Cour Puget.

Successfully visiting the Louvre is a Àne art. Its complex labyrinth of galleries and staircases spiralling three wings and four Áoors renders discovery a snakes-andladders experience. Initiate yourself with this three-hour itinerary – a playful mix of Mona Lisa obvious and up-to-the-minute unexpected. Arriving by the stunning main entrance, pick up colour-coded Áoor plans at the lower-ground-Áoor information desk beneath IM Pei’s glass pyramid, ride the escalator up to the Sully Wing and swap passport for multimedia guide (there are limited descriptions in the galleries) at the wing entrance. The Louvre is as much about spectacular architecture as masterly art. To appreciate this zip up and down Sully’s Escalier Henri II to admire Venus de Milo , then up parallel Escalier Henri IV to the palatial displays in Cour Khorsabad . Cross room 1 to Ànd the escalator up to the 1st Áoor and staircaseas-art L’Esprit d’Escalier . Next traverse 25 consecutive galleries (thank you, Áoor plan!) to Áip conventional contemplation on its head with Cy Twombly’s The Ceiling , and the hypnotic Winged Victory of Samothrace sculpture – just two rooms away – which brazenly insists on being admired from all angles. End with the impossibly famous Liberty Leading the People , Mona Lisa and Virgin & Child .

WITOLD SKRYPCZAK

The Louvre

Cour Khorsabad

ANTOINE MONGODIN/MUSÉE DU LOUVRE

Mission Mona Lisa

handless Hellenistic Hellenis DETOUR» goddess. DETOUR The razzle-dazzle of Gallery the Apollo Gallery’s crown jewels jewels.

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Louvre & Les Halles æ Top Sights Église St-Eustache ......................................... G4 Forum des Halles ........................................... G5 Musée du Louvre............................................ D6 Palais Royal .................................................... D4

ú Eating 11 Café Marly .............................................. D5 12 Chez La Vieille.........................................F6 13 Franprix Les Halles................................ G5 14 Hidden Kitchen ...................................... D3 15 Joe Allen ................................................. H4 16 L'Ardoise ................................................ A3

History

In the 3rd century BC a tribe of Celtic Gauls known as the Parisii settled on what is now the Île de la Cité. Centuries of conflict between the Gauls and Romans ended in 52 BC, and in 508 Frankish king Clovis I made Paris seat of his united Gaul kingdom. In the 9th century France was beset by Scandinavian Vikings; within three centuries these ‘Norsemen’ started pushing towards Paris, which had risen so rapidly in importance that construction had begun on the cathedral of Notre Dame in the 12th century, the Louvre was built as a riverside fortress around 1200, the beautiful SteChapelle was consecrated in 1248 and the Sorbonne opened its doors in 1253. Many of the city’s most famous buildings and monuments were erected during the Renaissance at the end of the 15th century. But in less than a century Paris was again in turmoil, as clashes between Huguenot (Protestant) and Catholic groups increased. The worst such incident was the so-called St Bartholomew’s Day massacre in 1572, in which 3000 Huguenots who had gathered

20 Saveurs Végét'halles ............................ G6

û Drinking 21 Le Cochon à l'Oreille ............................. G4 22 Le Fumoir................................................E6 23 Legrand Filles & Fils ...............................E3 24 Ô Château ............................................... F5 ý Entertainment 25 Comédie Française ................................D4 26 Comédie Française Discount Ticket Window .....................................D4 27 Fnac Forum des Halles ..........................G5 28 Le Baiser Salé........................................ H6 29 Social Club...............................................F1 30 Théâtre du Châtelet ..............................G7 31 Virgin Megastore....................................C5 þ Shopping 32 Anna Joliet .............................................. E3 33 Colette.....................................................B3 34 E Dehillerin.............................................. F4 35 Kiliwatch .................................................G3 36 Lavinia ..................................................... A1

in Paris to celebrate the wedding of Henri of Navarre (later King Henri IV) were slaughtered. Louis XIV, also known as the Sun King, ascended the throne in 1643 at the age of five and ruled until 1715, virtually emptying the national coﬀers with his ambitious building and battling. His greatest legacy is the palace at Versailles. The excesses of Louis XVI and his queen, MarieAntoinette, in part led to an uprising of Parisians on 14 July 1789 and the storming of the Bastille prison – kick-starting the French Revolution. France struggled under a string of mostly inept rulers until a coup d’état in 1851 brought Emperor Napoleon III to power. He oversaw the construction of a more modern Paris, with wide boulevards, sculpted parks and modern sewer system. Like his pugnacious uncle, however, Napoleon had a taste for blood, which led to his costly and unsuccessful war with Prussia in 1870. When the masses in Paris heard of their emperor’s capture by the enemy, they took to the streets, demanding that a republic

1 Sights

Paris’ major sights are distributed more or less equally on the Right and Left Banks of the Seine. We start in the heart of the Right Bank in the area around the Louvre and Les Halles, which largely takes in the 1er and follows, more or less, the order of the arrondissements. LOUVRE & LES HALLES

The area around the Louvre in the 1er contains some of the most important sights for visitors in Paris. To the northeast, the mostly pedestrian zone between the Centre Pompidou and the Forum des Halles, with rue Étienne Marcel to the north and rue de Rivoli to the south, is filled with people by day and by night, just as it was for the 850-odd years when part of it served as Paris’ main marketplace, known as Les Halles. Musée du Louvre ART MUSEUM (Map p50; www.louvre.fr; permanent collections/ permanent collections & temporary exhibitions €9.50/14, after 6pm Wed & Fri €6/12; h9am6pm Mon, Thu, Sat & Sun, 9am-10pm Wed & Fri;

MUSEUM PASS The Paris Museum Pass (www.paris museumpass.fr; 2/4/6 days €32/48/64) is valid for entry to some 38 venues in Paris – including the Louvre, Centre Pompidou, Musée d’Orsay and new Musée du Quai Branly and Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine. Outside the city limits but still within the Île de France region, it will get you into another 22 places, including the basilica at St-Denis (p143) and parts of the châteaux at Versailles (p145) and Fontainebleau (p147 ). Buy the pass online, at participating venues, branches of the Paris Convention & Visitors Bureau (p129), Fnac outlets utle tle ets ts (p119), RATP (Régie Autonome nom ome me d des Transports Parisians)) in information nfo formation for desks and major me metro etr tro stations.

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SIGHTS

ÿ Sleeping 8 BVJ Paris–Louvre...................................F5 9 Hôtel de Lille ...........................................E5 10 Le Relais du Louvre ................................F6

18 Le Petit Mâchon ..................................... E5 19 Rue Montorgueil Market....................... H3

mPalais Royal-Musée du Louvre) The vast Palais du Louvre was constructed as a fortress by Philippe-Auguste in the early 13th century and rebuilt in the mid-16th century for use as a royal residence. In 1793 the Revolutionary Convention turned it into the nation’s first national museum. The paintings, sculptures and artefacts on display in the Louvre Museum have been assembled by French governments over the past five centuries. Among them are works of art and artisanship from all over Europe and important collections of Assyrian, Etruscan, Greek, Coptic and Islamic art and antiquities. Traditionally the Louvre’s raison d’être is to present Western art from the Middle Ages to about the year 1848 (at which point the Musée d’Orsay takes over), as well as the works of ancient civilisations that informed Western art. When the museum opened in the late 18th century, it contained 2500 paintings and objets d’art; today some 35,000 are on display. The ‘Grand Louvre’ project, inaugurated by the late President Mitterrand in 1989, doubled the museum’s exhibition space, and new and renovated galleries have opened in recent years devoted to objets d’art such as Sèvres porcelain and the crown jewels of Louis XV (room 66, 1st floor, Apollo Gallery, Denon Wing). The Louvre may be the most actively avoided museum in the world. Daunted by the richness and sheer size of the place (the

PARIS

æ Sights 1 Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel............. C5 2 Colonne Vendôme................................. B2 3 Conseil d'État......................................... D4 4 Fontaine des Innocents......................... H6 5 Inverted Pyramid................................... C5 6 Maison Roue Libre................................. H5 7 Pyramide du Louvre .............................. D5

17 Le Grand Colbert.................................... E2

be declared. Despite its bloody beginnings, the Third Republic ushered in the glittering and very creative period known as the belle époque (beautiful age), celebrated for its graceful art nouveau architecture and advances in the arts and sciences. By the 1930s, Paris was a centre for the artistic avant-garde and had established its reputation among free-thinking intellectuals. This was all cut short by the Nazi occupation of 1940; Paris remained under direct German rule until 25 August 1944. After the war, Paris regained its position as a creative centre and nurtured a revitalised liberalism that reached a climax in the student-led uprisings of 1968. The Sorbonne was occupied, barricades were set up in the Latin Quarter and some nine million people nationwide were inspired to join in a general strike that paralysed the country. During the 1980s President François Mitterrand initiated several costly grands projets, a series of building projects that garnered widespread approval even when the results were popular failures. In 2001, Bertrand Delanoë, a socialist with support from the Green Party, became Paris’ – and a European capital’s – first openly gay mayor. He was returned to power in the second round of voting in the 2008 elections.

population per sq km

898

FRANCE

USA

≈ 30 people

belief systems

A New Breed of President »»Population: 64.4 million »»Area: 551,000 sq km »»GDP: US$2.10 trillion »»GDP growth: -2.2% »»Inflation: 0.1% »»Unemployment: 9.1%

Presidential elections in 2007 ushered out old-school Jacques Chirac (in his 70s with two terms under his belt) and brought in Nicolas Sarkozy (b 1955). Dynamic, ambitious and far from media-shy, the former interior minister and chairman of centre-right party UMP (Union pour un Mouvement Populaire) wooed voters with big talk about job creation, lower taxes, crime crackdown and help for France’s substantial immigrant population – something that had particular pulling power coming from the son of a Hungarian immigrant father and Greek Jewish-French mother. Female Socialist Party candidate Ségolène Royal (b 1953) put up a grand fight. But the majority of French, fed up with an economically stagnant, socially discontented France, appeared to be looking for change. And this personality-driven, silky-tongued politician seemed to be the man to do it. A new breed of French president was born. Yet rather than the work of knuckling down to implement his rigorous economic reform platform, it was Sarkozy’s personal affairs that got the attention in his first months in office – falling out of love with wife Cecilia, divorcing, falling in love with Italian multimillionaire singer Carla Bruni and remarrying, all in a few hasty months. His popularity plummeted and it seemed the honeymoon was over.

Economic Woes

Sarkozy pledged to reduce unemployment and income tax (between 5.5% and 40%), create jobs and boost growth in a economy that nonetheless ranks as the world’s eighth largest. Unemployment frog-leaped from 8.7% in 2007, to 7.6% during the global banking crisis in 2008 (when the government injected €10.5 billion into France’s six major banks), to 9.1% in 2010 – all to the horror of the French, who traditionally

Faux Pas

»» Splitting the bill is deemed

the height of unsophistication. The person who invites pays, although close friends often go Dutch. »» Fondle fruit, veg, flowers or clothing in shops and you’ll be greeted with a killer glare from the shop assistant

»» Take flowers (not

chrysanthemums, which are only brought to cemeteries) or Champagne when invited to someone’s home »» Never ever discuss money over dinner

899

87 2 Roman Catholic

France Today

if France were 100 people

(% of population)

Jewish 77 would live in cities 23 would live in rural areas

Protestant

Muslim

have great expectations of their economy: France is a country accustomed to receiving free education and health care (employees pay 8% of their salary in social-security contributions, deducted at source), statesubsidised child care, travel concessions for families, ample leisure time and a 35-hour working week. In June 2009 economic growth shrank by 1.3% and for a few fleeting months France joined much of the rest of Europe in recession. Hard-line attempts to reform a pension system, unchanged since 1982, which entitles 1.6 million workers in the rail, metro, energy-supply and fishing industries to draw a full state pension after 37.5 working years (and everyone else after 40), only provoked widespread dismay and a series of national strikes and protests. So too have suggestions that the retirement age, currently 60, should be extended to at least 62 (it is much higher in almost every other European country). In June 2010 when the French government unveiled concrete plans to push the retirement age back to 62 by 2018, much of the country went on strike.

Helter-Skelter Downhill

If the results of the 2010 regional elections are anything to go by, Sarkozy could be out of a job after the next presidential elections in 2012. His party got a real battering, the left scooping 54% of votes and control of 21 out of 22 regions on mainland France and Corsica – Alsace in northeast France was the only region the centre-right UMP held on to. By spring 2010 unemployment was hovering at a disconcerting 10% and government popularity at an all-time low. Inciting further disillusionment with the government, scandal erupted in July over allegations by investigative news service Mediapart that France’s richest woman and L’Oréal heir, 87-year-old Liliane Bettencourt, had made illegal cash

France maintains a rigid distinction between Church and State. Indeed, the country is a secular republic, meaning no mention of religion – any religion – on national school syllabuses.

to r e ie Films g s Top a Ea d p ts reaayou l

Top Books

Top Surfs

Top Albums

The Death of French Culture (Donald Morrison) Thoughtprovoking look at France’s past and present Me Talk Pretty One Day (David Sedaris) Caustic take on moving to France and learning the lingo

Paris by Mouth (http://parisby mouth.com) Resource for capital dining and drinking Wine Travel Guide (www.wine travelguides.com) France 24 (www.france24. com/en/france) French news in English

Histoire de Melody Nelson (Serge Gainsbourg, 1971) France’s most-loved crooner Moon Safari (AIR; 1998) Electronic Made in Medina (Rachid Taha, 2002) Rai Dante (Abd al Malik, 2008) Rap

Code Inconnu (Code Unknown; 2001) Art-house film Les Choristes (The Chorus; 2004) Stunning soundtrack! La Môme (La Vie en Rose; 2007) Story of singer Edith Piaf Lucky Luke (2009) France’s most famous cowboy

John Elk III

Christian Aslund

Mountain Highs

You’re tearing down the Alps on your mountain bike, the wind whipping your hair; you’re skipping through flowery pastures tinkling with cowbells; you’re schussing in Mont Blanc’s shadow in Chamonix. Everywhere the scenery makes you feel glad to be alive.

Downhill Skiing

Glide to off-piste heaven on the Vallée Blanche (p469), zigzag like an Olympic pro down black pistes in Val d’Isère (p492), or take your pick of Les Portes du Soleil’s 650km of runs (p478).

Magical Views

The sky is blue, the mountain air sweet – it’s a zip-a-dee-doo-dah kind of wonderful day. Just the day to go paragliding or hanggliding above glistening Lake Annecy (p482).

Alpine Hiking

There’s nothing like donning a backpack and hitting the trails in the region’s national parks. The rugged wilderness of Parc National des Écrins (p502) and the snowcapped majesty of Parc National de la Vanoise (p495) will leave you breathless.

On the Edge

For a buzz, little beats racing down Morzine’s heart-pumping mountain-bike track (p478). Not enough of a challenge? Take your intrepid self to Chamonix (p471) for adventure among the four-thousanders.

Clockwise from top left

1. Off-piste skiing at the Vallée Blanche 2. Breathtaking views, Aiguille du Midi 3. Hang-gliding over Lake Annecy 4. Hiking in Parc National de la Vanoise.

John Elk III

Sky High

John Elk III

Get close-ups of the shimmering Mont Blanc from Aiguille du Midi (p467) or contemplate the ethereal loveliness of the Cascades du Hérisson from the misty waterfall trail (p516). Lake Annecy spreads out like a liquid mirror before the fairest castle of them all: Château de Menthon-St-Bernard (p486).

»» Grotte de Lascaux (p579) Breathtaking re-creations of the Vézère’s most ornate cave art »» Grotte de Rouffignac (p578) Renowned for its frieze of mammoths, one of the largest cave paintings ever discovered »» Grotte de Font de Gaume (p575) The only original polychrome (multicolour) paintings still open »» Abri du Cap Blanc (p578) Flint-carved sculptures Clockwise from top left

1. Painting at the Grotte de Lascaux 2. Mammoths of the Grotte de Rouffignac 3. Detail of bull’s head, Grotte de Lascaux.

Marie-Odile et Jean Plassard

Top Caves for Viewing Art

Chris Howes/Wild Places Photography/Alamy

France is renowned for its art – including some of the earliest in European history. Deep in the Vézère Valley, prehistoric Cro-Magnon artists worked by the light of primitive oil torches, using flint tools for engraving, natural fibre brushes, pads or sponges for painting, and paints derived from minerals like magnesium and charcoal (black), ochre (red/yellow) and iron (red). Usually they painted the animals they hunted, though occasionally left handtracings or depicted abstract figures and scenes such as the picture of an injured hunter and bull at Lascaux. But the CroMagnon artists’ motives remain a mystery. Some clues come from what they didn’t draw. There are no landscapes, trees, rivers, skies or rocks in any of the Vézère’s caves – only animals, suggesting that the paintings had some kind of ritual or shamanic significance, possibly indicating shrines or sanctuaries. Most mysterious of all are the geometric shapes common to all the caves. Theories range from primitive writing to magic markers, though no one actually knows what they signified. Head to some of the valley’s extra ordinary art sites and ponder these theories yourself.

Robert Harding Picture Library Ltd/Alamy

Vézère Valley Cave Art

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Published Mar 2011 First Published Apr 1994

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22/11/2010 10:13:37 AM

9TH EDITION

Coastal Capers Hiking along the Côte d’Opale – a wind-buﬀeted area of white cliﬀ, gold sand and everchanging sea and sky – is dramatic and beautiful, as is a Baie de Somme bicycle ride past lounging seals.

p000

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Paris’ Lungs Parisians take air in thick forests outside the city: Forêt de Fontainebleau, old royal hunting ground, is a hot spot for rock climbing and family walks. Chantilly means manicured French gardens and upperclass horse racing.

Fashion & Flea Markets Luxury fashion houses, edgy boutiques, Left Bank designer-vintage and Europe’s largest ea market: Paris really is the last word in fabulous shopping.

¡ #

Sights Basilique du Sacré Cœur E3 Bateau Lavoir C3 Cimetière de Montmartre B3 Cimetière de Montmartre Entrance & Conservation Office B3 Clos Montmartre D2 Église St-Pierre de Montmartre E3 Moulin de la Galette C3 Musée de la Vie Romantique B5

Metro Stations Abbesses D4 Anvers E4 Barbès Rochechouart G4

IS THIS THE RIGHT GUIDE FOR YOU? CHECK INSIDE BACK COVER

Museums & Galleries All the great masters star in Paris’ extraordinary portfolio of museums. Not all the booty is stashed inside: buildings, metro stations, parks and other public art give Mona a good run for her money.

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Blanche B4 Château Rouge G3 Gare du Nord H5 Jules Joffrin E1 Lamarck Caulaincourt D2 Marcadet Poissonniers G2 Pigalle C5 Place de Clichy A4

Neighbourhoods 9E B5 18E E2 Montmartre F3

Plazas Abbesses, Pl des C4 Blanche, Pl B4 Constantin Pecqueur, Pl C2 Émile Goudeau, Pl C3 Roubaix, Pl de G5 Tertre, Pl du D3

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Gothic to WWI Amiens evokes serene contemplation inside one of France’s most aweinspiring Gothic cathedrals, and emotional encounters in WWI cemeteries.

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Sacred Architecture The other heavyweight near Paris is Chartres cathedral, one of Western architecture’s greatest achievements, with stained glass in awesome blue.

of northern France. Lille and Arras are the cities to target.

Square Léon Serpollet

R Mar cadet

Rodier, R E5 Ronsard, R E4 Ruisseau, R du D1 Seveste, R E4 Simart, R F2 Sofia, R de F4 St-Bruno, R H3 Steinkerque, R de E4 Steinlen, R B2 Stephenson, R H2 St-Mathieu, R H3 St-Ouen, Av de A2 St-Pierre, Pl E4 St-Vincent, R D2 Trois Frères, R des D3 Trudaine, Av E5 Turgot, R E5 Véron, R C4 Victor Massé, R C5 Vintimille, R de A5 Yvonne Le Tac, R D4

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Gourmet Paradise Monsieur A Boulanger opened the city’s rst restaurant, near rue Rivoli, in 1765. Contemporary Parisian dining is an exuberant feast of neighbourhood bistros, old-time brasseries, zinc-bar cafés and starred restaurants.

le-Vicomte are other fabled addresses in French royalty’s little black book.

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Cottin, Passage E3 Coysevox, R A1 Custine, R E2 Damrémont, R B2 Dancourt, R D4 Delta, R du F5 Douai, R de B4 Doudeauville, R G2 Duc, R E1 Duhesme, R C2-D1 Dunkerque, R de F5 Duperré, R C5 Durantin, R B3 Ernestine, R H2 Etex, R A2 Eugène Carrière, R B2 Eugène Sue, R F2 Faubourg Poissonnière, R du G5 Foyatier, R E3 Francœur, R D2 Frochot, R C5 Gabrielle, R D3 Ganneron, R A2 Gérando, R E5 Germain Pilon, R C4 Goutte d’Or, R la G4 Guy Patin, R G5 Hermel, R E1 Houdon, R D4 Jean Baptiste Pigalle, R C5 Joseph de Maistre, R B1

Streets Abbesses, R des C3 Affre, R H3 Ambroise Paré, R G5 Amsterdam, R d’ A5 André del Sarte, R E3 Azas, R Baigneur, R du E2 Ballu, R A5 Barbès, Bd G2 Baudelique, R F1 Becquerel, R E2 Berthe, R D3 Blanche, R B5 Boinod, R G1 Bruxelles, R de B4 Burq, R C3 Calais, R de A4 Capron, R A4 Carpeaux, R B1 Cauchois, R B4 Caulaincourt, R C2 Cavé, R H3 Chapelle, Bd de la H4 Chappe, R D4 Chaptal, R B5 Charbonnière, R de la G4 Christiani, R F3 Clichy, Bd de A4-C4 Clichy, R de A5 Clignancourt, R F3

R Froc

MONTMARTRE INDEX

R Dancourt

ADINA TOVY AMSEL

DIANA MAYFIELD

R Lep

Opéra Bastille S9 Palais de Chaillot A6 Palais de la Découverte F5 Palais de l’Élysée G4 Palais de Tokyo C5 Palais Garnier K3 Palais Royal L6 Panthéon N11 Paris à Vélo, C’est Sympa! S6 Passage des Panoramas M3 Passage Jouffroy M3 Passage Verdeau M3 Petit Palais G5 Pl Maubert Market O10 Pl Monge O12 Place de la Bastille S9 Place de la Concorde H5 Place de la Madeline J4 Place des Vosges R8 Pletzel Q8 Point Zéro O9 Pont Neuf M8 Pyramide du Louvre L6 Sorbonne N10 Ste-Chapelle N8 Tour de l’Horloge N8 Tour Montparnasse H12

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Lille, Flanders & the Somme

Sights 13th-Century House P5 15th-Century House P6 16th-Century HalfTimbered House P8 Alliance Française K11 Arc de Triomphe C3 Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel K6 Atelier Brancusi O6 Bateaux Mouches E5 Canal St-Martin R2 Cathédrale de Notre Dame de Paris O9 Cathédrale de Notre Dame de Paris North Tower O9 Centre Pompidou P6 Cineaqua B6 Cité de I’Architecture et du Patrimoine A6 Colonne de Juillet S9 Colonne Vendôme K5 Conciergerie N8 Conseil d’État L6 Église de Ste-Marie Madeleine J4 Église du Dôme F8 Église St-Eustache N6 Église St-Germain des Prés L9 Église St-Germain l’Auxerrois M7 Église St-Louis des Invalides F8 Église St-Louis en l’Île Q9 Église St-Sulpice L9 Eiffel Tower B7 Fat Tire Bike Tours Departure Point C7 Flamme de la Liberté D5 Fontaine des Innocents O7 Forum des Halles N6 Galerie de Minéralogie et de Géologie P12 Galeries du Panthéon Bouddhique du Japon et de la Chine B5

oin

Mosquée de Paris P12 Musée Carnavalet R8 Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaïsme P7 Musée de l’Armée F8 Musée de l’Orangerie H6 Musée des Arts et Métiers P5 Musée des BeauxArts de la Ville de Paris G5 Musée des Égouts de Paris D6 Musée d’Orsay J7 Musée du Louvre L7 Musée du Quai Branly C6 Musée Grévin M3 Musée Guimet des Arts Asiatiques B5 Musée National d’Art Moderne O7 Musée National d’Histoire Naturelle P12 Musée National du Moyen Âge N10 Musée National Eugène Delacroix L8 Musée Picasso R7 Musée Rodin G8

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Around Paris

Neighbourhoods 1ER M6 2E M4 3E Q6 4E Q8 5E O11 6E K11 7E F8 8E F3 9E L2 10E Q3 11E S6 12E S11 13E R12 14E J12 15E C11 16E B5 17E B1 19E S1 Faubourg StGermain H8 Left Bank H9 Marais Q8 Triangle D’or E4

Gepetto et Vélos O11 Grand Palais F5 Grande Galerie de l’Évolution P12 Hôtel de Sully R9 Hôtel de Ville P8 Hôtel des Invalides F8 House Where Jim Morrison Died R9 Institut du Monde Arabe P10 Inverted Pyramid L6 Jardin Alpin Q12 Jardin des Plantes Q11 Jardin des Plantes Entrance P12 Jardin des Tuileries J6 Jardin d’Hiver (Serres Tropicales) Q12 Jardin du Luxembourg L11 L’Open Tour K3 Maison de Victor Hugo R8 Maison Européenne de la Photographie Q8 Maison Roue Libre O6 Mechanical Fountains O7 Mémorial de la Shoah P8

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regions at a glance

JOHN BANAGAN

Châteaux of the Loire Valley

St-Augustin H2 St-François Xavier G9 St-Georges L1 St-Germain des Prés L9 St-Lazare J2 St-Michel M9; N9 St-Michel – Notre Dame N9 St-Paul Q8 St-Philippe du Roule F3 St-Placide J11 Strasbourg St-Denis P4 St-Sébastien Froissart S6 St-Sulpice K9 Sully Morland R9 Temple Q5 Ternes C1 Trinité K2 Trocadéro A6 Tuileries K5 Vaneau H10 Varenne G8 Vavin K12 Victor Hugo A4 Volontaires E12

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Arts et Métiers P5 Assemblée Nationale H6 Auber K3 Bastille S9 Bir Hakeim A8 Boissière B5 Bonne Nouvelle O4 Bourse M4 Bréguet Sabin S8 Cadet N2 Cambronne D10 Cardinal Lemoine O11 Champ de Mars– Tour Eiffel B8 Champs-Élysées Clemenceau F4 Charles de Gaulle– Étoile B2; C2; C3 Charles Michels A11 Château d’Eau P3 Château Landon R1 Châtelet N7 Châtelet – Les Halles O6 Chaussée d’Antin L3 Chemin Vert S8 Cité N8 Cluny–La Sorbonne N9 Colonel Fabien S2 Commerce B11 Concorde H5 Courcelles D1 Dupleix B10 Duroc G11 École Militaire E8 Edgar Quinet J12 Émile Zola, Av A11-B11 Étienne Marcel O6 Europe H1 Falguière G11 Félix Faure B12 Filles du Calvaire R6 Franklin D Roosevelt E4; F4 Gare Austerlitz R12 Gare de l’Est Q2 Gare du Nord P1 Gare Montparnasse G12 Gare St-Lazare J2 George V D3 Goncourt S4 Grands Boulevards N3 Havre Caumartin K3 Hôtel de Ville O8 Iéna B5 Invalides G6 Jacques Bonsergent Q4 Jussieu P11 Kléber B3 La Motte Picquet Grenelle C10 La Tour Maubourg F7 Le Peletier M2 Les Halles N6 Liège J1 Louvre-Rivoli M7 Luxembourg M11 Mabillon L9 Madeleine J4 Maubert Mutualité O10 Miromesnil G3 Monceau F1 Montparnasse Bienvenüe J12; H11; H12 Musée d’Orsay J6 Notre Dame de Lorette M2 Notre Dame des Champs K11 Oberkampf S5 Odéon M9 Opéra K4 Palais Royal – Musée du Louvre L6 Passy A7 Pasteur F12 Place Monge O11; O12 Poissonnière O2 Pont de l’Alma D6 Pont Marie Q9 Pont Neuf M7 Pyramides L5 Quai de la Rapée R11 Quatre Septembre L4 Rambuteau P6 Réaumur Sébastopol P5 Rennes J10 République R4; R5 Richelieu Drouot M3 Rue du Bac J8 Ségur E11 Sentier N5 Sèvres Lecourbe F11 Sèvres-Babylone J9 Solférino H7

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DENNIS JOHNSON

ANDREW BAIN

representing the Virgin NEUILLYMary. Pilgrims have MONTMARTRE SUR-SEINE revered the pearlycream sculpture of her PUTEAUX This is one of France’s most A TIMELINE in the sanctuary since 9E 1160 Maurice de Sully becomes bishop journeys. The broad emotional the 14th century. Light 10E a devotional candle of Paris. Mission: to grace growing SURESNES stretches of ne sand and breeze- 8E and2E write some words Paris with a lofty newblown cathedral. bluﬀs are quiet now, but early to the Livre de Vie TRIANGLE D'OR (Book of Life). RIGHT 1182–90 The choir with on 6double June 1944 the beaches of north3E 1ER BANK 16E ambulatory is finished and work 7E ern Normandy (p209 and p000) were MARAIS FAUBOURG starts on the nave and side chapels. a cacophony of gunre and explo- ST-GERMAIN 4E

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Virgin & Child Spot all 37 artworks18E Montmartre

17E

NOTRE DAME PARIS/ALAMY

BILL BACHMANN

LA DEFENSE

Réaumur, R de O5 St-Sébastien, R S7 Y Récollets, R des Q2 St-Simon, R de H8 Yves Toudic, R R4 Regard, R du J10 St-Sulpice, R L9 Reihac, Passage P3 St-Victor, R O10 Plazas Reine, Cours la Ste-Anne, R L5 18 Juin 1940, Pl du E5-F5 Ste-Apolline, R P4 LE PRÉ ST Oberkampf, R S6 H12 GERVAIS Ste-Cécile, R N3 Observatoire, Av de Renard, R du O7 Abbé Basset, Pl de Renaudes, R des C1 Ste-Croix de la LES l’ L12 LILAS l’ N11 René Boulanger, R P4 Bretonnerie, R P7 Odéon, Carrefour Adrien Oudin, Pl L3 Rennes, R de J11 Ste-Foy, R O4 de l’ L9 BAGNOLET BELLEVILLE Alma, Pl de l’ D5 République, Av de Strasbourg, Bd de P4 Odéon, R de l’ M10 Amiral de Grasse, Sueur, R la A2 Odessa, R d’Great J12 Bell la R5 Pl C5 Richard Lenoir, Suffren, Av de B8 Opéra, Av de l’ L4 Navigate an elf-sized 20E Treasury Beauvau, Pl G3 Bd S9 Suger, R M9 and 22 wooden 11E Orfèvres, Q door des M8 MONTREUIL This was the cash steps to reachRichelieu, the bell R de L5 Bourdonnais, Port Sully, Pont de P10 Orléans, Q d’Emmanuel: P9 reserve of French its peal Spire de la B6 Richer, R N3 Sully, R de R10 1200–50 The west facade , with rose kings, who ordered sions, the bodies of Allied soldiers LEFT Orsay, Q d’ E6 6E LATIN is so pure thanks to chalices, cruciÀxes, Cambronne, Pl D10 Riverin, Cité Q4 Surcouf, R F6 window, three portalslying and two soaring QUARTER the precious gems Ortolan, R O12 in the sand as their comrades- BANK Chimera Gallery baptism fonts and Carrée, Cour L7 and jewels Parisian Rivoli, R de J5-L6Surène, deaH3 towers, goes up. Everyone is stunned. Oudinot, Scale the north towerRfor Paris panorama other sacred gems to R G10 in-arms charged inland. Just up the Central Paris (see reverse) women threw into the 5E Carrefour de l’Odéon O7-P8 North Rose Window T dragons, grimacing gargoyles admired by birds, in the Ouessant, Rpot d’ C10 STbe melted down when it was recast 1345 Some 180 years hill after the Omaha Beach, 15E L9 Seethe prophets, judges, kings and from long rows and grotesque chimera. Nod to celebrity chimera Mint during times of R aux from Robert Schuman, BOULOGNEMANDÉ Taitbout, R L2 Ours, O6 copper and 12E R du priests venerate Mary in vivid blue Stryga, who has wings, horns, a humanCarrousel, body BILLANCOURT Ànancial strife – war, foundation stone was of laid, the 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 00 0 0 0 Pl du K7 bronze in 1631. Av E6 symmetrical gravestones the 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 00 0 0 Col R le A7 P Pl0 des and violet at glass, one of three beautig Tasse, and sticking-out tongue. This bestial lot warns 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 oneCathédrale de Notre Dame is complete. famine and so on. 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 00 0 0 0 Ch Garnier, Pl K3 Conseil l Dria Rochefoucauld, R 14E Pyramides 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 ful rose blooms & (1225–1270), Palais Royal oՖ demons. demons æ0 # Taylor, R Q4 Normandy American Cemetery Me- each nt æ0 # Paix, R de la K4 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 d'État 13E 0 0 0 00 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Charles de Gaulle, It is dedicated to notre dame (our lady), de la L2 almost 10m in diameter. 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 00 0 0 0 0 0 0 Pl du Téhéran, R de F1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Palais, Bd du N8 morial bear solemn, silent testimony 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 00 0 0 0 0 0 0 Pl B3 Palais the Virgin Rocher, R du H2 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 00 0Mary. CHARENTONVANVES Jardin du000000 0 Temple, Bd du R5 ISSY-LES¡ # 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Palatine, R K10 Royal CHINATOWN 0 0 0 0 0 00 00 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 to the horrible price paid for France’s LE-PONT Carrousel Rocroy, R de O1 MOULINEAUX 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Palais Royal –0 Temple, R du O8-Q6 Charles Michels, 1ER 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1789 Revolutionaries smash the Palestro, R de O5 R Ber 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 R0 Pl A11 Musée du Louvre Rodier, R M1 de 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 liberation from Nazi tyranny. g Ternes, Av des B1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Riv Rd Papillon, R N2 , pillage the original MONTROUGE North Nort th 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 á # u Fa Gallery of Kings oli Châtelet, Pl du N8 Flying Roi de Sicile, IVRY-SUR0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Inverted MALAKOFF S oTerrage, R du R2 South ubou GENTILLY 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Towe er R du P8 So Tower bunker, Omaha Beach, left Buttresses MEUDON Paradis, Cité O2 ALFORTVILLE Arc de cathedral and melt allGun its bells except æ # rg St0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Pyramid SEINE Jardin de Clemenceau, Pl G4 T To oThéâtre, R du B10 Tower 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Rollin, R O11 CLAMART Hon Triomphe du 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 00 00 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Pl0 du Pyramide l'Oratoire Paradis, R de O2 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 the great 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 R Bai bell Emmanuel. The cathedral æ # Concorde, Pl de la H5 Carrousel 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Rome, R de H1-J2 du Louvre l Carrousel l e ul Théodule Ribot, 00000000000000 0 0 0 0 0 0 00 0 0 0 0 0 0 Parc Royal, R du Q7 Cour 0 0 0 00 00 00 00 0 0 0 0 00 00 00 0 0 00 0 0 0 00 00 0 00 0 becomes ¡ a Temple of Reason then a # Louvre-Rivoli Contrescarpe, Pl de 0 0 0 00 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Rond Point Champsâ # 0 0 00 00 00 00 0 0 00 0 00 00 00 0 0 00 00 00 00 0 0 0 00 0 0 Napoléon R D1 Cour 0 0 00 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 warehouse. Charenton, R de S9 Danton, R M9 Faubourg St-Martin, Gracieuse, R O12 Marché St-Honoré, R Pas de la Mule, R la N12 0 00 00 00 00 0 0 00 0 00 00 00 0 0 00 00 00 00 0 0 0 00 0 0 0 Élysées Marcel Musée L 0 0 0 00 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Carrée Théophraste du R8 00 00 00 00 0 0 00 0 00 00 00 0 00 00 00 00 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 00 Q0 a du0 Louvre Daru, R D1 R du P4-Q2 du K5 Gramme, R B11 Diaghilev, Pl K3 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 du Dassault F4 Pl0 du Victor Hugo’s Charlemagne, 00 0 00 00 00 00 00 00 0Jardin 00 00 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 00 00 1831 novel The R Q9 Renaudot, R B12 Lou L la Grand, R K4 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 vre Daunou, R K4 00 0 0 0 0Louvre 0 0 0 00 00 00 Charles de Gaulle, Favart, R L4 Maréchal Gallieni, Av Pasquier, R H3 École Militaire D9 Gramont, R de L4 Roquépine, R G3 Ü # 0 0 0 0 0 de l'Infante 0 Thérèse, R L5 Hunchback of Notre Dame inspires La Fayette, R L3-Q1 Pasteur, Bd F11 0 0 0 00 0 0 0 00 00 00 00 00-top-experience-fran9.indd 9 22/11/2010 9:36:32 0 0 0 0 0 0 Dauphine, R M8 École Supérieure de Pont S12 Fédération, R deAM Grande Armée, Av du F7 Q Vo Église Rosiers, R des Q8 0 0 00 0St-Germain 0 0 0interest in the half-ruined Thomy Thierry, new Labie, R A1 0 0 e Pastourelle, R Q6 l'Auxerrois Sein lta 00 00 00 00 0 00 0 Guerre D9 Charles Floquet,GothicDébarcadère, R la B8 Margueritte, R D1 de la A2 Rossini, R M3 e ¡ ire Allée C9 Laborde, R de G2 cathedral.# Paul Baudry, R E3 du A1 Edmond Rostand, Av B8 Félix Faure, Av A12 Marie, Pont P9 Grande Truanderie, R Roule, R du N7 GreatThorel, R O4 Pont Neuf Q de Lacépède, R O12 Gallery Paul Deschanel, Delambre, R J12 M11 Pl Charlot, R R6 Férou, R L10 Marie Pape de la N6 Rousselet, R G10 1845–50 Architect Viollet-le-Duc QM Thorigny, R de R7 Allée B7 alaq Square Delecourt, Av B11 Édouard VIII, Pl K4 Château d’Eau, R Feuillantines, R des Carpantier, R K9 Grange aux Belles, R Lacuée, R S10 Roy, R G2 u ais undertakes its restoration. Twenty-eight 00 0Pl 0de 00 0 R de Thouin, R N11 0 0 0 Laferrière, R L1 du Vert Paul Lelong, R M5 0 0 0 0 Ve Estienne d’Orves, Pl du Q3 M12 Marignan, R de E4 de la R3 Royal, Pont K7 l'Institut 00 0 00 00 0 Q Galant new kings are sculpted for the west Départ, R du H12 rne Tilsitt, R de B2 0 Paul Valéry, R A3 000 000 0 d’ K2 de L2 Desaix, R B9 Feydeau, R M4 Marigny, Av de G4 Gravilliers, R des P5 Laffitte, R L3 Royale, R H4 facade. The heavily Châteaudun, decoratedRportals Tiphaine, West RWindow C10Rose Lagrange, R O9 Pavée, R Q8 Éurope, Pl de l’ H1 Chauchat, R M3 The Descartes, R O11 Fidélité, R de la P3 Mario Nikis, R D10 Grenelle, Bd de Royer-Collard, R are reconstructed. and spire Tiquetonne, R O5 Lakanal, R B11 Payenne, R Q8 d’Antin, R Diderot, Bd S11 Filles du Calvaire, Bd Marivaux, R de L4 A9-C10 M11 is built. neo-Gothic treasuryChaussée Tour d’ Auvergne, R Finlande, Pl de F6 Lamartine, R M2 Péclet, R C12 Dieu, R R4 François 1er, Pl E5 de la K2 des R6 Marot, R la D4 Grenelle, Q de A9 Rude, R B3 de la M1 Lamennais, R D2 Pelée, R S7 PHRASES TELEPHONE 1860 The area in front of Notre Franz Liszt, Pl O2 Chauveau Lagarde,DameDocteur Finlay, R Filles du Calvaire, R Marseille, R de R3 Grenelle, R de E8Ruelle, R A10 Tour Maubourg, Bd Landrieu, Passage Transept Peletier, R le M3 Hello. Bonjour. Ambulance %15 du A9 is cleared to create the G Guillaumin, Pl D2 R H3parvis, an des R6 Martel, R P3 G8-J8 S de la F7 D6 Penthièvre, R de F3 Goodbye. Au revoir. Docteur Lancereaux, Fils, R des Q7 G Péri, Pl J2 Chazelles,Parisians R de D1 Martignac, R de G8 alfresco classroom where Greneta, R O5 Country code %33 Tournefort, R O12 Laos, R du D10 Pépinière, R de la H2 Saintonge, R de R6 Please. S’il vous plaît. Gal Patton, Pl du A2 Chemin Vert, R on R du E2 Fleurus, R de J11 Martyrs, R des M1 Guénégaud, R L8 can learn a catechism illustrated Saints Pères, R des International Tournelle, Q de la %00 Las Cases, R H7 Percier, Av G2 Dr Roux, R du F12 Georges Pompidou, du S8 Foch, Av B3 Masseran, R F10 Thank you (very much). Merci (beaucoup). Guisarde, R L9 sculpted stone portals. K8-K9 dialling code O10 Dragon, R du K9 Pl O7 Cherche Midi, R du Foin, R du R8 Mathurins, R des J3 Pereire (Sud), Bd A1 Saulnier, R N2 Gustave Eiffel, Av B8 Laugier, R C1 I (don’t) understand. Je (ne) comprends Tournelles, R des S8 Lauriston, R B3 1935(€3Aperrooster bearing Pérignon, R E10 Directory assistance %3212 call) H Mondor, Pl M9 H10part of the Drouot, R M3Choir Screen Fondary, R B10 Matignon, Av F4 North Tower Guynemer, R K11 (pas). Saxe, Av de E10 Tournon, R de L9 R de la Q7 (international) relics of the Crown Chevert, of Thorns, Staircase Dulac, R G12No part of theFossés Havre, Pl du J2 R E8 St Denis St-Bernard, R Htales more evocatively Lavoisier, R H3 Maubeuge, R de N1 Perle, cathedral weaves biblical Do you speak English? Parlez-vous anglais? Scribe, R K3 Tourville, Av de E9 Lecourbe, R D12 Pérouse, R la B4 and(English St Geneviève isChoiseul, put onPassage top ofL5the Dumont d’Urville, than these ornate in the 14th century Hôtel de Ville, Pl de deswooden P11 panels, carved Mayet, R G11 EU-wide central spoken) %112 How much is it? C’est combien? Sébastopol, Bd Halévy,population. R K3 Tracy, R de O4 after the Black Death killed half the country’s The Ledru Rollin, Av S11 Perrée Forez, R Q5 cathedral spire to protect l’ O8 Chomel, Rthose J9 who R B4 Fossés St-Jacques, R Hamelin, Mazarine, R L8 emergency de O6 faintly gaudy colours were restored in the 1960s.R B4 Treilhard, R F2 Lentonnet,The R N1'Mays' Pétel, R C12 pray inside. Dunkerque, R de P1 ays' Mazas, Voie R11 Iéna, Pl d’ B5 Choron, R M2 des M11 TRANSPORT Hanovre, R de L4 Fire brigade %18 Trémoille, R de la D5 Igor Stravinsky, Pl O7 Léo Delibes, Petit Musc, R du R9 Sédillot, R D7 OnR1 A5 May 1630, Médicis, city Dupetit Thouars, Cimarose, R A4 Four, R du K9 R de M10 Metro/bus ticket €1.60 (€11.60 for 10) Ségur, Av de E10 Haussmann, Bd 1991 The architectural masterpiece of Portal of Trévise, R N3 goldsmiths oՖered a Police Léon Bourgeois, Petites Écuries, R %17 R Q5 Institut, Pl de l’ L8 Cirque, R du G4 Fourcy, R de Q9 Megisserie, Q de St-Anne Taxi Flagfall €2.20 Seine, R de L8 F2-H2 3m-high painting to Notre Dame and its Seine-side riverbanks Tronchet, R J3 Allée B7the des O3 Duphot, R J4 Invalides, Pl des F7 Portal of Claridge, Galerie Française, R N6 la M7 cathedral – a traTravel €0.89-1.33 Entrance Sentier, R du N4 Hauteville, R d’ O3 Troyon,the R C2 become a Unesco World Heritage Site. Dupin, R J10 Léon Jouhaux, R R4 Petits Champs, R Last dition they continued J Rouché, Pl K3 du E4 Franco Russe, Av C7 Havre, R du J2 Meslay, R P4 per kilometre Servandoni, R L10 Judgement every 1 May until 1707 Léon Lhermitte, des L5 Portal of Tuileries, Q des J6 Dupleix, Pl C9 J Strauss, Pl Q4 Claude Vellefaux, François 1er, R E4 Messageries, R Sévigné, R de Helder, R du L3 Three Portals theQ8 Virgin Turbigo, R de P5-Q5 R C12 when their bankrupt Petits Hôtels, R Dupleix, R C9 Jussieu, Pl P11 Av S3 François 1et, R E5 guild folded. Viewdes 13 ofO2 Play I spy (Greed, Cowardice et al) beneath these R de F11Sèvres, Henri Barbusse, R Turenne, R de R7 Parvis Exit Leonardo de Vinci, deswhich O2 illustrate the seasons, Duquesne, Av E9 these huge artworks in Avsculpted Bellart, R E11 Archives, R des Q7 Brantôme, R P6 Clauzel, R L1 François Bonvin, Messine, de F2 doorways, PARIS INDEX NotreKossuth, Dame Pl M2 M12 Turgot, R N1 R A3 the side chapels.Metz, R de life Picardie, R de R6alongside theH10-J9 and virtues Bible. Duret, R A2 Louis Lépin, Pl N8 Bellechasse, R de H8 Bréa, R K12 Arcole, Pont d’ O8 Clément, R L9 R E11 P4 and the 12 vices Henri IV, Bd R9 U Léopold Bellan, R N5 Mézières, R de K10 Pierre 1er de Serbie, Sevrien, Galerie le Duroc, R F10 Louis XIII, Square R8 Bellefond, R de N1 Argenson, R d’ G2 Breteuil, Av de F10 Cler, R E8 François Miron, R P8 Henri IV, Q R10 Streets H10 Ulm, R d’ N12 Av C5 Dutuit, Av G5 M Quentin, Pl N6 Belloy, R de B4 Argenteuil, R d’ L5 Brey, R C2 Cléry, R de N5 Francs Bourgeois, R Henry Monnier, R L1 Leroux, R A3 Michel le Comte, R P6 A Letellier, R C10 Pierre Charron, R D4 Sextius Michel, R A10 Université, R de l’ Duvivier, R E8 Madeleine, Pl de Belzunce, R O1 Argentine, R d’ A2 Brissac, R de R10 Clichy, R de K1 des Q8 Michelet, R L12 Sèze, R de J4 Héricart, R A10 C7-H7-J8 Lhomond, R N11 Pierre Leroux, R G10 Abbé de l’Epée, R de Argout, R d’ N5 illustrated-highlights-fra9.indd 62-63 26/11/2010 la J4 3:10:09 PM Benjamin Franklin, E Brunel, R A1 Clodion, R B9 Franklin D Roosevelt, Hérold, R M5 Milan, R de J1 Sibour, R Q2 Uzès, R d’ N4 Lido, Arcades du D3 Milton, R M2 Pierre Levée, R de l’ M12 Marché SteR A7 Aristide Briand, Buci, R de L9 Cloître Notre Dame, Eblé, R F10 Av F4 Solférino, Q de G6 Hippolyte Lebas, Liège, R de J1 la S4 V Abbé Groult, R de Catherine, Pl Béranger, R R5 R H7 Budapest, R de J2 R du O9 Frédéric le Play, Minimes, R des R8 Echelle, R de l’ L6 Solférino, R de H7 R M2 Pierre Semard, Lille, R de J7 l’ B12 du Q8 Bercy, R de S10 Armaillé, R d’ B1 Buffault, R M2 Clotilde, R N11 Av D8 Miollis, R D11 Échiquier, R de l’ O3 Sommerard, R du N10 Val de Grâce, R du L12 Hittorff, R Q3 R N1 Lincoln, R D4 Abbeville, R d’ O1 Martyrs Juifs du Berger, R N6 Armand Moisant, Buffon, R Q12 Clouet, R D11 Miromesnil, R de Écluses St-Martin, R Frémicourt, R C11 Sorbonne, R de la M10 Valmy, Q de R4 Hoche, Av C2 Pillet Will, R L3 Linné, R P11 Aboukir, R d’ M5 Valois, R de M6 Vélodrome d’Hiver, Bergère, Cité N3 R G12 C Clovis, R N11 Frères Morane, R G1-G3 des R2 Soufflot, R M11 Hôpital, Bd de l’ R12 Lions St-Paul, R Plâtre, R du P7 Acacias, R des B2 Pl des A9 Arrivée, R de l’ H12 Bergère, R N3 Cochin, R O10 des B12 Molière, R L5 École, R de l’ N10 C Caire, Av H2 Sourdière, R de la K5 Van Dyck, Av D2 Horloge, Q de l’ M8 Poirier, Villa D11 des Q9 Adrienne Vaneau, R H10 Napoléon, Cour L7 Bernardins, R des Artois, R d’ E3 Coëtlogon, R J10 Monceau, R de F1 École de Médecine, R Fresnel, R B6 Cadet, R N2 Hôtel de Ville, Q de Poissonnière, Bd N3 Staël, R de F12 Lisbonne, R de Lecouvreur, Allée Arts, Pont des L7 Varenne, Cité de H9 Napoléon III, Pl P1 O10 Cognacq Jay, R D6 Freycinet, R C5 Monge, R O11 de l’ M9 Caire, Passage du St-André des Arts, l’ O8 Poissonnière, R O4 E1-G1 D8 Opéra, Pl de l’ K4 Varenne, R de Berri, R de E3 Assas, R d’ K12 Colbert, R M4 Friedland, Av de C2 Hôtel de Ville, R de Monsieur, R G9 Écoles, R des N10 O4 R M9 Poissy, R de O10 Littré, R H11 Aguesseau, R d’ H4 Astorg, R d’ H3 Palais Bourbon, Pl G8-H8 Béthune, Q de P10 Colisée, R du E4-F3 Froissart, R R6 Monsieur-le-Prince, Edgar Faure, R B9 Caire, R du O5 Stanislas, R J12 l’ P8 Poitiers, R de J7 Lobau, R de P8 Aix, R d’ S4 du G7 Vaugirard, Bd de G12 Bichat, R R3-S4 Athènes, R d’ J1 Colonel Driant, R R M10 G Edimbourg, R d’ H1 Cambacérès, R G3 St-Antoine, R R9 Humblot, R B9 Poitou, R de Q6 Lobineau, R L9 Alasseur, R C9 Bienfaisance, R de Vaugirard, R de F12- Palais Royal, Pl du L6 Auber, R K3 du M6 Monsigny, R L4 Elisée Reclus, Av C7 Gabriel, Av F4-G4 Cambon, R J4 St-Augustin, R L4 Huysmans, R J11 French history is written across Poncelet, R C1 Londres, R de J1 Albert 1er, Cours G5 Panthéon, Pl du N11 la G2 Augereau, R D7 H11-K10 Colonel Moll, R Mont Thabor, R Élysée, R de l’ G4 Cambronne, R 34 Gabriel Laumain, St-Benoît, R K8 I the landscape Pondichéry, R de Albert de Mun, Longchamp,of R dethe A5Loire.duEvery Petits Pères, Pl des Bièvre, R de O10 Auguste Comte, Vavin, R K12 du A1 J5 Elzévir, R Q7 D11-D12 R N3 St-Bernard, Q Q10 traces won Iéna, Av d’ C3- castle C10 Av B6 Lord Byron,aRtale: D3 of wars M5 Bixio, R F9 R K11 Velasquez, Av F1 Comète, R de la E7 Montaigne, Av D5 Émeriau, R A9 Capucines, Bd Gaillon, R L4 St-Charles, R A10 and Louis lost, Blanc, romances upon B5-B6 Albert Thomas, R Q4 Auguste Vacquerie, Blanche, R K1 R S1 embarked Pont Neuf, Pl du M8 Velpeau, R J9 Commerce, R du B11 Emile Acollas, Av C9 Galande, R N9 Montebello, Q de N9 Pont de l’ Alma D6 des K4 St-Claude, R R7 or destroyed, alliances forged and Alexandre III, Pont Louis Codet, R E8 Puits de l’Ermite, Pl Blancs Manteaux, R Capucines, R des J4 Concorde, Pont de R B4 Verdun, Av de Q2 Montenotte, R de C2 Pont Marie P9 Émile Duclaux, R E12 Galerie des Champs Iéna, Pont d’ B7 enemies St-Denis, Bd P4 vanquished. From the Innocents, R des N7 Pont Neuf M8 F6 Louis-Philippe, P12 du des P7 Aumale, R d’ L1 Vernet, R C3 la H6 Montmartre, Bd M3 Émile Zola, Av Cardinal Lemoine, R shockingly grand to the quietly D3 St-Denis, R O5 Invalides, Bd des G8subdued, Pont Neuf, R du N7 Alexandre Parodi, Pontthere P9 should beMontmartre, Pyramides, Pl des K6 Bleue, R N2 Austerlitz, Pont Verneuil, R de K7 Condé, R de L10 A11-B11 a castle R du O11 Galerie du Claridge St-Didier, R A5 Invalides, Pont to match Ponthieu, R de E3 R R1 Louvre,your Q du own L7 mood. N4-N5 Raoul Follereau, Blomet, R D12 d’ R11 Condorcet, R M1 Enghien, R d’ O3 Carmes, R des N10 E4 St-Dominique, R G7 Verrerie, R de la P7 des F6 Alexandrie, R d’ O4 Avre, R de l’ C10 Pontoise, R de O10 Louvre, R du M6 Pl R2 Blondel, R P4 Verrier, R le K12 Montmorency, R Conférence, Port de Entrepreneurs, R des Galerie le Sevrien Carnot, Av B2 St-Ferdinand, R A1 Italiens, Bd des L3 Chambord Alger, R d’ K5 Portalis, R H2 Lowendal, Av de E9 René Cassin, Pl N6 Boccador, R du D5 Vertbois, R du Q5 B de P6 la E5 B11-B12 Carrousel, Pont H10 St-Fiacre, R N4 The Château deB5 Chambord gets all the J Alibert, R R4 Portefoin, R Q6 Lübeck, R de République, Pl de Boétie, R la E4-G2 Verte, Allée S7 Constantine, R de G7 Erasme Brossolette, Galilée, R B4 Montorgueil, R N6 du K7 Babylone, R de G9 St-Florentin, R J5 hype for a reason: it’s stunning. Visit in Alma, Pont de l’ D6 Bac, R du J7-J8 Poulletier, R Q10 Lucien Sampaix, Jacob, R L8 Boissière, R A4 la Q5 Vézelay, R de F1 Montparnasse, R N12 the early morning to see it rise, all towers and Bd Casimir Périer, R H8 Constantinople, R Garancière, R L10 St-Georges, R L2 Alsace, R d’ Q1 Pré aux Clercs, R turrets, R from Q4 the mist – making it possible Boissy d’Anglas, Jarry, R P3 République Viala, R B10 de H1 du G11 to Ernest Psichari, R E7 Garibaldi, Bd E11 Cassette, R K10 Bachaumont, R N5 St-Germain, Bd K8 imagine it inRthe I (p361). Amélie, R E7 du K8 Lune, dedays la O4of FrançoisMontparnasse, R H4 Dominicaine, Pl Jean Baptiste Vicq d’Azir, R S2 Conti, Q de M8 R Ernest Renan, R E12 Gay Lussac, Castex, R R9 Bailleul, R M6 St-Gilles, R R7 Amelot, R R5 Presbourg, R de B3 Lutèce, R de N8 Bonaparte, R de la E1 Pigalle, R K1 Chenonceau Victoire, R de la L2 du J12 Estrapade, R de Castiglione, R de J5 Copernic, R A4 Balzac, R D2-D3 R M12 St-Guillaume, R J9 Amiral d’Estaing, R Banque, R de la M5 Président Wilson, Av St-Jacques, R N10 Luynes, R de J8lady, Chenonceau L8-K9-K10 Résistance, Pl de la D6 Like an elegant Victor Hugo, Av B3 Copreaux, R E12 Montpensier, R l’ N11 Caumartin, R de Général Bertrand, R Jean Bart, R K11 ortlessly its beautiful surde l’ B4 du A6-C5 Lyon, R deoccupies S9 Rond Point ChampsJean Daudin, R E11 eﬀ Vieille du Temple, Coquillière, R M5 de L6 Estrées, R d’ F9 J4-K2 Barbet de Jouy, R G9 Bonne Nouvelle, Bd du F10 St-Joseph, R N4 roundings. The impressive arches that span Amiral Roussin, R de Barbette, R Q7 de O4 Élysées Marcel Jean Ferrandi, R H11the calm M Cher River draw you in,Monttessuy, R Q7 Corse, Q de la N8 R de C7 Presles, R de C9 Étienne Marcel, R N5 Général Denain, Célestins, Q des Q9 while the St-Laurent, R P2 l’ C11 Provence, R de K3 Borromée, R D12 Dassault F4 exquisite decor and the fascinating history Jean Giraudoux, R C4 Vienne, R de H2 Courcelles, Bd Morland, Bd R10 Etoile, R de l’ C2 Cépré, R D11 Bassano, R de C4 Mac Mahon, Av B2 Allée du B9 St-Lazare, R K2-L2 captivated (p369). Amsterdam, R d’ J2 Bastille, Bd de la Pyramides, R des K5 St-Louis, Pont O9 Bosquet, Av D7 Roubaix, Pl de O1 ChâteauxEugène Jean Goujon, R E5 keep you  Vignon, R J4 de D1 Morland, Pont R11 Varlin, R R1 Architecture César Franck, R E11 Madame, R K9 Général Détrie, Av Amyot, R N12 Q Bosquet, R E8 St-Augustin, Pl H2 Jean Lantier, R N7 Azay-le-Rideau Courcelles, Mornay, R R10 Euler, R C3 Chabrol, R de P2 S10 Madâme, R K10 du C9 St-Louis en I’Île, R P9 Vigny, Av de E1 Cathedrals History  Anatole France, Bouchardon, R P4 St-Charles, Pl A10 Quatre Septembre, cypress-lined to this R de J1 Villars, Av de F9 R de E2 Exposition, R du Chaillot, R de C5 Baume, R de la F2 Bddrive de leads Moscou, Général Eisenhower, Jean Mermoz, R F4 AMadeleine, St-Marc, R M4 Av C7 (comparatively) discreet and (certainly) Bouquet de St-Georges, Pl L1 Jean Nicot, R E6 Spaces Coastline R du L4 Ville l’Evêque, R de   Crillon,Green R R10 Motte-Picquet, Av l’ D7 Chaise, R de la J9 Bayard, R E4 la J4 Av du F5 St-Martin, Bd P4 romantic castle beautifully reected in its still, Anatole France, Q J7 Bayen, R C1 Longchamp, R St-Gervais, Pl P8 Quentin Bauchart, la H3 Croissant, R du N4 la D9 Eylau, Av d’ A5 Champ de Mars, R moat. Fantastic views of thede château Général Foy, R du G1 Jean Rey, R B8 broadMademoiselle, St-Martin, Cité P3 Anjou, Q d’ Q9 du B5 St-Michel, Pl N9 from theRlush (p376 R C4 Villedo, R L5 Croix des Petits Moussy, R).de P8 du D8 Beauce, R de Q6 F C12park are lit up at night Général Lemonnier, Jean–Pierre St-Martin, R O7-P6 Anjou, R d’ H3-H4 Bourdon, Bd R11 St-Sulpice, Pl K10 Timbaud, R R5 Langeais Quinault, R C12 Villersexel, R de H7 Champs, R M6 Murillo, R E1 Champaubert, Av Beaucour, Av D2 Madrid, R de H1 Av du K6 St-Médard, R O12 Fabert, R F7 Antoine Bourdelle, Bourbon, Q de P9 Ternes, Pl des C1 Jemmapes, Q de R3 Over Quincampoix, R O7 Villette, Bd de la S1 Croix Nivert, R de de C10 Beaujolais, R de L5 Magenta, Bd de châteauxN change Geoffroy St-Hilaire, St-Michel, Bd M10 Falguière, R G12 the centuries R G12 Bourdonnais, Av de Champollion, R M10 Jeûneurs, R des N4 hands, A Taste of Flemish Style Vinaigriers, R des Q3 Tristan Bernard, R la C11 alterations are made… but in Beaujon, R C2 P2-Q4 Nancy, R the de Q3 R P12 St-Michel, Q N9 Fallempin, R B10 Aqueduc, R de l’ Q1 Beaumarchais, of Langeais, the details are intact. The la C7 Pl B1 Visconti, R L8 Croix Nivert, Villa Champs, Galerie Mail, R du M5 Rabelais, R F3 Naples, R de G1 St-Paul, R Q9 George V, Av D4 for aJoseph Bara, R K12 case Faubourg du Royalty Breaking 10th-century keep and the intricate medieval Arbre Sec, R de l’ M7 Valenciennes, Pl de P1 Bourdonnais, Port Joseph Bouvard, interior Vivienne, R M5 C11 des D3 Bd S8 Maine, Av H12 Racine, R M10 Nations Unies, Av St-Pierre Amelot, Georges Friedrich Temple, R du S4 take you to a time of valiant knights Arc de Triomphe, R Varsovie, Pl de A6 Château deFaubourg Verglass strong Av C8 de la B6 Volney, R K4 and mysterious R de R6 Champs-Élysées, Av Crussol, Beaune, R de K7 Malaquais,ladies Q L7(p375). des A7 Rambuteau, R Passage S6 Haendel,ofR S1 de l’ B1 Vendôme, Pl K4 Bourdonnais, R Joubert, R K2 Volontaires, R des des C3-G5 Cujas,sailles R N11 Beauregard, R O4 Malar, R E7 N6-P7 Navarin, R M1 St-Placide, R J10 Georges Pompidou, Montmartre, – vast, opu- R local beer between Angers Arcade, R de l’ J3 Victoires, Pl des M5 des N7 Juge, R B10 E12 Change, Pont au N8 Cuvier, R Q11 Beaurepaire, R R4 Malesherbes, Bd Rameau, R L4 Nélaton, St-Quentin, R de P1 Voie A8 du M2 Whether for its distinctive black stoneR A9 Archevêché, Pont de Beautreillis, R R9 and very shimold-town Victor Hugo, Pl A4 Bourgogne, R de G8 Chapon, R P6 Jules César, R S10 Voltaire, Bd R5 Cygne,lent R du O6 andG1-H3 watchtowers or for its mind-blowing Rapp, Av D7 Neuf, Pont M8 St-Roch, R K5 Gesvres, Q des O8meanFaubourg l’ O10 Violet, Pl B11 Branly, Q C6 tapestry, the Château d’Angers Jules Ferry, Bd S4 medieval Voltaire, Q K7 Chardin, R A7 Belidor, R A1 Cygnes, Allée des–A8 Malher, R Q8 mery has to be R du ders exRaspail, Bd J9Néva, R de la D2 St-Romain, R H10 Poissonnière, Ginoux, Raround A10 stands out from the crowd. The forbidding Y et C Morandat, Pl A2 Juliette Dodu, R S2 exterior W D Mandar, N5 J10-K12 St-Sabin, R S7 Nevers, O1-O3 Gluck, R K3 hides aRjewel-box of riches (p384R).de M8 seen to be Faubourg believed. travagant Flemish Jussieu, R P11 Marbœuf, R D4 Wagram, Av de C2 Rataud, R N12 St-Saëns, R B9 Dalou, R F12 New York, Av de St-Denis, Godot de Mauroy, Transport K Fontainebleau, Renaissance buildMarceau, Av C3 Washington, R D3 Raymond Poincaré, St-Sauveur, R O5 Danielle Casanova, A7-C6 R du P3 R J4 Clockwise from top left Marché Neuf, 2.Q Château de Newton, Keppler, R C4 St-Sébastien, Winston Churchill, Av A5 R K4Chantilly and Faubourg St-Honoré, ings Alma Marceau D5 Goethe, is R C5a highlight 1. Château de Chambord ChenonceauR C3 Many thanks to the following for the use of their content: Paris Metro map © 2010 RATP Vaux3. Château d’Azay-le-Rideau Passage S6 du N8 R du D2-F3-J5-M6 Goff, R le M11 Av F5 Kléber, Av B4 Réaumur, R Q5 Dante, R N10 Argentine A2 Niel, Av B1

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Carcassonne at Dusk

That rst glimpse of La Cité’s sturdy, stone, witch’s-hat turrets above Carcassonne (p727) in the Languedoc is enough to make your hair stand on end. To properly savour this fairy-tale walled city, linger at dusk after the crowds have left, when the old town belongs to its 100 or so inhabitants and the few visitors staying at the handful of lovely hotels within its ramparts. Don’t forget to look back when you leave to view the old city, beautifully illuminated, glowing in the warm night.

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It is impossible to drive this dramatic trio of coastal roads (p856), each one higher and more hairpin bend–riddled than the next, without conjuring up cinematic images of Grace Kelly, Hitchcock, the glitz of Monaco high life, and scandalous royals – all to the standing ovation of big view after big view of sweeping blue sea fringing Europe’s most mythical coastline. To make a perfect day out of it, before leaving Nice, shop for a picnic at the morning market on Cours Saleya (p000). Roquebrune, left

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USA $26.99 UK £17.99