FRAGRANCE NOTEBOOK LO PITCAIRN
Workshop #1 01/26/2016
1. Essence Lemon -at first smell I am reminded of the candy warheads -happy, clean, sparkling, fresh, sour, slightly like candy -emotion: happy, secure, at home 2. Bergamot -warm, smokey, at first glance its homey and reminds me of male scents -spiced, peppery, if i were to give it a color it would be in the green family, earth tones -has properties of grapefruit smelling bergamot and lemon together are the base of oud de cologne which was the first popular fragrance and was created by and Italian gentleman who moved to Germany and he created it because he missed the groves of Italy. 4.Essence of lavender -herbal, fresh, aromatic, relaxing, warm, I see my bathtub and candles, i see spa robes -cut grass, fresh 1,2, and 4 combined makes me thing of the opera Carmen by Bizet 3. absolute orange flower -hermes verte orange, earthy, warm, intense, creamy, citrus warmth -would have long staying power, it kind of bridges fruit and flower 7. essence rose bulgare -intense, almost spoiled roses, i want to vomit, i can imagine it combining to be nice -as it dries down less of the gross rose and you can small the more conventional rose scent underneath, but theres still a bite that is off putting
8.essence néroli* -sweet, honeysuckle-like, earthy, light citrus, summer, bright 10. essence ylang-ylang -floral, powdery, mint-like, old, Shalimar, green 11. absolute tubéreuse -seafood, dirt, smokey, warm, heavy, oily, buttery, egg 12. absolute jasmine egypte -fresh, reminds me of ylang-ylang, spice, earthy, fresh cut off the tree, heavy would live on the skin long, body odor, red warm color 13. clove* -thanksgiving, warm, spicy, dirt, brown, comforting reminds me of making all my food during the holiday or stews i make throughout the year 14. cinnamon -fireball whisky, warm, spicy 15. nutmeg -gross at first, fresh, woody, nutty, heady, sap from a pine tree, warm 16. essence ceadarwood -smokey, woody, reminds me of a cedar closet or a trunk we have at my house, wood chips, dirty, musky, wet, damp, animalistic, reminds me of going hunting and leather 17. essence vétiver -warm, dirty, light smokey, smells how velvet feels, 18. sandalwood -warm, woody but a fresh wood or light wood, reminds me of the beach, i see neutral shades
19. pachouli -sour, sharp, warm, herbal, makes me wanna roll a joint 20. oakmoss -smells like the backstage of the metropolitan opera, damp, wet, darkness, sultry masculine 22. absolute tonka bean -warm, almond, marzipan, cherry, sweet 23. butter iris -waxy, white, and pasty, burlap, hint of leather, a powdery, its for old ladies 5. retinoid labdanum -sharp, floral, i see black, leather, cigars, there’s a warm spiciness to it that makes it seem masculine but i could see it combining with softer scents to make a strong female fragrance 24. vanilla -sweet, baking, I am now hungry, sugar rush, reminds me of creme brûlée, glitter, baby prostitute 21. galbanum -earthy, GREEN, i feel like I’m running through a field, freshly snapped green twig, wet paint at a second smell 28. Undécalactone -peach skin, powdery, smells like a hair finishing spray or blini, sparkly, white peach, light, fun 29. Hédione Firmenich -i don't smell anything, very light smell, pure, what water smells like 25. Héliotrpine -powdery almond, not like a sweet almond syrup and not very similar to tonic bean, more similar to an almond croissant than amaretto which is what the tonka bean was like, confectionary almond 26. Méthylionone -floral, powdery, fizzy, smells like it would be in a very young girls perfume
6. Dihydromyrcénol IFF -A janitor’s closet, smells like windex, comet, ammonia, ultra clean, off putting in its “too clan smell" 27. Aldéhyde C12 MNA -car wash, metallic, citrus, aggressive, sharp and really hits the back of the throat 30. Vanilline -sweet, light, sugar cookies, the real vanilla gives you warmth, while this one sits at the front of the nose, feminine 31. repo lily of the valley* -powdery, strong floral, innocent, not too sweet and extremely floral and fresh 32. repo rosessence Firmenich -fresh, what i would expect rose to smell like, reminds me of rosewater ice cream, waxy, more petal than nectar 33. Repro Pear -smells plasticy, fake and overdone, it’s there then gone and doesn’t last long, waxy, brightness 34. citrus facet -lemon, sharp, sparkling, smells kind of like gin and lemon or lime, summer day 35. facet aromatic - rainforest, menthol, sharp on the nostril, more green on dry down, light turpentine 36. Facet Marine - fresh, melon, that fades into something fresher and sparkling 37. fresh floral -smells like Meyers gardenia dish soap 38. Facet green -herbal, kale, leafy greens, sort of the sour green apple smell
39. facet fruity -first reactions that it's too sweet, grapefruit, juicy fruit, powdery sugar fruit, 40. facet spicy* -woody, sandy, smells like a “beach” candle, peppery, fresh ground pepper 41. facet woody* -so nice, masculine, comforting, it smells like the dinning hall at my summer camp, my ideal man would probably wear a cologne with this in it 42. leather -liquid smoke, smells less like leather and more like products you use to treat leather 43. Chypreé -powdery, generic, old lady, drug store scent 44. fougére -nice and fresh, tea qualities, smells like the world after it rains 45. oriental -generic shalimar, vanilla is coming through, it seems old 46. gourmand -fresh bakery, sweet, smells like disney world and funnel cakes 47. powdery -powdery with a slight almond scent, sweeter than i expected 48. musky -general cologne, masculine, kind of smells like Axe, clean fur, aftershave
Workshop #2 3/1/16
1. Essence Coriander- spicy -warm on dry down , very fruity, some citrus lemon notes, I’m getting lemongrass chicken (thai food), kind of smells like a cleaner, on dry down becomes more dynamic and less like cleaner 51.Essence Geranium -minty and sweet, light rose scent, powdery at the end, smells like valentines day, I’m seeing the color pink, smells like some cosmetic products i’ve used in the anti aging relm, at the dry down it goes straight into rose 2. Orange citrus Aurantium -smells straight up like an orange peel and orange juice, smells very generically what you think of orange, bright, very light and disappears, sits at the front of the nose 3. Benzoin Styrax Tonkinensis bubblegum, very sweet, creamy and buttery, creamier and floral on the dry down, really makes me think of double bubble which powdery and elastic, its for a very girly fragrance, 7. Basil -minty edge, smells just like the basil i grow in my apartment, makes me think of a caprese salad, i can almost smell tomato, really clean and 10. Birch Bark -BBQ, smoke, warm, leathery, smells just like a campfire, hits the back of your throat very hard, musky, the dry down lets go of some of the smokiness, smells like a hunting lodge i’ve been to, mesquite wood 11. Jasmine absolute -very floral, i love this scent, comforting, after kate said “public bathroom” it reminded me of public bathroom soap, honey suckle scent at the end, hits right above the nostrils 12. Floralozone -fresh, honeydew, definitely getting that marine facet, sake, pleasant licorice, i would want this in a bubble bath, rootbeer, sits right in the nostrils, very rounded and pleasant, clear and fresh
13. Iso E Super -i LOVE this, so fresh, very woody and floral, reminds me me of super light wood, sits at the front of the nose and doesn’t last long, the initial sniff is so pleasant, has an icy-hot feel (not the product) 14. Linalyle Acetate -i get the acetate, herbal, hits on the tongue, bergamot, spicy, sharpie markers, ink, mosquito repellant, would be very nice in something, but on its own not something i would want, it would just add something really nice to a fragrance 61. Lilial -extremely light, and aldehydic, floral, just super light at first, watermelon, wet and marine, it would go in a watermelon body wash, hair spritz, 15. Helional -licorice, aldehydic, super light and just sits at the front of the nose, I’m getting that marine salty edge, smells like bubbly perrier and sparkly, stronger as it dries 16. Aurantiol -GRAPE ROBOTUSSIN, throw some sprite in there, very fruity, has that medical scent, would be nice watered down in like a plum, smells japanese inspired candies, the medical scent goes away on the dry down, ink, gluey hairspray smell, hits in the middle of the nose 17. Cashmeran -floral at first, warm old library, spicy, softens up close, mint fresh hit and calms down, wet wood, the dry down really changes it into a wet wood, from far away i get a green tea scent, powdery, mulch, fresh water, lake house, fresh shower, i think its in silver birch by molten brown 19. triplal -green, smells like sour green apple, with an edge though because its not overly sweet, gasoline, hits in the back of the throat, its a super interesting scent that is on the side of fragrant gasoline
20. Calone -I LOVE THIS, super water, soft, misty, smells a little like Island Water by creed, mellon, oyster is definitely there with a little musk, in a diffuser at your beach house it would be wonderful, on the dry down it loses the misty and warms down to the musky salty oyster 22. Eugenol -CLOVE, holidays, the dentist thing is light, so warm and spicy, its nice but not really for me, hits high up in the nose 23. sandalore -men’s cologne, woody, very fragrant, makes me want to sneeze slightly, gets creamier, not as deep as some sandalwoods with a chemical edge to it, shoe polish mitt 5. evernyl -super fresh, smells very manly, i could see it in a woman’s fragrance with some floral, its what i would want a boyfriend to smell like, watery with a warmness to it, its a sport fragrance, new car smell 24. vertofix -damp, woody, hits the top of the nose, herbaceous, menthol, very cool, not a strong scent, gets stronger on the dry down, very fresh 21. veltol -burnt caramel, very sweet with a musk not too girly, smells like a warm kitchen, at the end theres a hint of floral and boozy, as it dries it becomes warmer and muskier 28. coumarine -powdery, the tonkabean really comes through, its warm and musky but also sweet, detergent, would be very good in a mens cologne
REPRODUCTIONS 29. osmanthus -very fruity tea, snapple, theres some floral in there too, maybe hibiscus, very peachy, little bit of the aldehyde sparkle 25. cassis base -smells like cat pee, tart, black and ripe, blackberries, little bit of green sits in the back of your throat, i like it more on the dry down 26. chocovan -chocolate cake, ganache, really really yummy chocolate, a tart creaminess, flavored lip smackers, khlua and creme 6. animalis - very musky, dark, drakkar noir, little bit of pine tree in there, old world, horses, goats, fur, very much a horse it smells just like a stable, powdery spicy farm
PERFUMES 27. Declaration Cartier -very citrusy, cloves, nutmeg, metallic, its grey, not too strong subtle, ginger, aldehydes, moves toward a woody scent, elegant, sophisticated, harmonious, the dry down is very nice its a successful man, very handsome, the dry down is very nice and smells like what a man would smell like 30. Eau Sauvage Dior -chypre, sharp, citrus, smells like mustard grey poupon, powdery, vetiver, softens on the dry down, sits above the nostrils, sour, smells like a Lush store, the citrus really comes up in the dry down 31. Paris YSL -sweet, powdery, women’s, aldehyde, very frothy and sparkly, definitely has florals coming through, its not overly feminine, hits the back of the nose, a mature older woman, purple, grapey, smells very sexy as it matures 32. No. 5 Chanel -very classic, it smells warm, powdery and creamy somehow, definitely for an older woman, not extremely sparkly, not overly feminine, honey, rose and jasmine, caramelized, citrus notes, 33. L’Air du Temps Nina Ricci - i don’t like this one, its so old lady, just not nice, bitter, eggy, sweet, jasmine, custard, i just want it to be over 34. Pour un Homme Caron -not super masculine, minty, aromatherapy, lavender is very much there, i smell the vanilla with a little sweetness, a dandy, it smells green 35. CKOne Calvin Klein -very minimal, fresh and clean, smells like fresh laundry, aldyhidic, citrus notes, metallic, wouldn’t last long on the skin, the citrus and clean notes are very strong
36. Opium YSL -very oriental, very close to a guerlian fragrance, deep, spicy, super sexy, she’s a little masculine but sexy, incense, decadence, powder, lightly floral the floral doesn’t show up too much 37. Mitsouko Guerlian -green, mossy, very bright, powdery, citrus, a sophisticated woman, spicy, hits your throat, could be unisex now 38. Angel Theirry Mugler -so gross, sweet, if the sweetness weren’t there, the citrus is nice, just a hard no, vanilla, salt, metallic, I’m seeing blue 39. Shalimar Guerlian -this is one of my favorite fragrances, burnt caramel, not too sweet, lemon, tonka bean, powdery, pleasant, a lot more citrus on the dry down 40. Flower Kenzo -sparkles, very floral, hits up in your sinuses, gentle, light musk, the person who wears this is a very nice person 41. J’Adore Dior -smells cheap, smells like drugstore perfume, mass market, smells to young, its way too aldehydey, smells like soap coming out of the dispenser, too sweet, its pink 42. Azzara pour Homme Azzaro -New Jersey, guido with an open shirt and gold chains, everyone in the mafia wears this fragrance, slicked back hair, musk on the dry down 43. Kouros YSL -tobacco, leather, spicy, very masculine and woody, i really like this one, icy, feels very fresh, its aggressive but still has a freshness to it 44. Le Male JP Gaultier -I like it, don’t love it, tonika, marine, salty, creamy, sits in the middle of the nose
Tom ford grey vetiver -very fresh, i like it, slight mustard, the bottle is amazing with the texturized glass, very smooth and fresh, its clean smelling tom ford black orchid -very sexy, strong, hits hard in the back of the head, the bottle is so well designed, its very sweet, marker-y smell Tabac original -ew, ew, ew, ew the packaging is awful it looks like hot sauce, very powdery, it grows on me, but its old man, smokey, burns my nose, its fine then its gross anaise anaise cacharel -packaging is antiquated, sweet powdery, very floral, very fresh, leafy, not a lot of musk, warm and gentle Paris YSL -i really like the bottle and the packaging is super cute smells like st. germain, sweet and floral with musk first van clef arpels -the bottle is nice the font could use some updating, i like to spritz you don’t have to take off the cap, warm and oriental, definitely for an older woman, its boozy and slightly powdery, becomes more powdery on the dry down joy -not my favorite, powdery, and extremely floral
Workshop #3 3/10/16
Facets
1. Citrus- super fresh, sparkly and warm in places, kind of makes me need to sneeze, lemon drop shot, transparent, the dry down it fades. 2. new freshness- soapy, car wash, definitely some citrus in there, sits 3. aromatic- lavender is strong, its very herbal, smells like it would be in one of those fragrance vaporizers, hippie, i want a massage with it 4. green- fresh snap twig, earthy, dirt, vegetable, stems, tomato vine, 5. fresh floral- light floral, the neroli really comes through, the lily as well is very strong, on the dry down kind of disappears 6. heavy floral- i really like this, Guerlian smelling, its a little sickly, reminds me of root beer candies, dry down latex balloons 7. fruity- oh no, so sweet, so girly, not good, artificial fruit, pink bubblegum, the antibiotic i used to drink 8. marine- super fresh, melon, reminds me of melon and prosciutto 9. spicy- very warm, reminds me of Spain, I’m hungry, ginger, chai tea, cardamom , theres a little bit of a woody sense in there 10.
gourmand- chocolate, I’m hungry, its very pastry smelling
11. woody- love this, the vetiver really comes through, masculine but could deepen a womans perfume, smokey, could be worn on its own 12.
leather- smokey, the birch isn’t overpowering, ink, smelled it too long now i can taste it
13.
powdery- its very powdery, smells like makeup, almonds, super light
14.
musky- i love this, very light and pleasant, not as strong as i expected, mellow
15. fougere- gentle and pleasant, very light, very green, minty, soapy, reminds me of a car wash and a lot of soap 16.
oriental- punches you in the face, vanilla is very strong and probably 85% of what I’m smelling
17.
amber- vanilla is super strong, play dough, sugar cookies,
18. classic chypre- feels a little oriental, fresh compared to modern chypre, sits just above nostrils, definitely very floral, dark feminine
19. modern chypre- very oriental, smells kind of like most of the “old lady” scents.madculine on the dry down, hits in the back of the nose, light male
TRIALS
-Equal parts Vetiver, animalis, facet woody, iso e super, sandalore, evenly, calone, jasmine absolute
-v. feminine, the jasmine is strong, with green notes
-when combined it actually smells exactly the same as when all the blotters with just the individual oils are dipped. Which i found did not happen on other combinations.
-on the skin really warms up into a feminine, yet bold scent
-its for a strong willed woman. someone brash but also very classy
-gives me some guerlian vibes, which probably comes from the jasmine
Trail for Prabal
-Mixing it in equal parts on the first test was very successful.
-added more green notes on the second, but it was not where we wanted it.
-landed on just using the first because of its minimalism and nice smell. its unisex and v. unique which is appropriate for our customer
Trials for facets
- trials with facets went quickly. most of them in their facet form were not very good so we moved onto working on our prabal scent
Fragrance trials 4/13/2016
Trial 1- taking some of the base notes and experimenting with variations on our original scent
-again we did even drops of eight each to compare a new mis with our old one to see how the scent ages.
-we found that the greens lifted a bit from the old and the heavy woody notes sat. the fragrance is much stronger now
-cedar wood and tonka bean
Fragrance Trials four Oudulin 5/11/2016
We experimented with different variations of a fragrance for Thom Browne.
-It used elements of sandalwood, nutmeg, oakwood,
and other warm, masculine scents to create something that reflected the brand
WORKSHOP #3
-For workshop 3 we mainly concentrated on helping Pan and Nicole further evolve their fragrance for lexus. By adding more ingredients such as vanilla we helped evolve their scent into a modern gentleman’s fragrance.