East Capers Issue 66 by christine courtright

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Free / Gratis

he Asociaci贸n de Artes del Mar de Cortez "Holiday Art Festival" at Colina del Sol on December 8th was another successful event benefiting local school children. Over 50 artists displayed their creations to the public. The artists pay a minimal fee of $130 pesos to participate. Smokeys and Baja Biscuits provided food for the many visitors. There was a complete bar and music the entire day as art enthusiasts strolled through the picturesque grounds enjoying and purchasing art.

Sam Tedesco won a holiday basket with over $500 USD in gift items thanks to donations from Sabaidee Thai Restaurant in Los Barriles, Flora Farms in San Jose, Baja Beach Company, Salon de Cortez, Elizabeth Perkins Jewelry, Sally de la Vos Painting and Annette Kaiser Chutney along with many artist contributions. Proceeds from the event were used to purchase and distribute over $22,000 pesos worth of school supplies for the East Cape schools. For more information about the Asociaci贸n de Artes programs visit their website at www.eastcapearts.com.

Feb/Mar 2014

Issue No. 66

Colina del Sol Art Festival

Photo courtesy of Frank Haurwitz

Feb/Mar

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Advertising in East Capers Advertising in the East Capers gets the word out about your business AND your ad money supports the 3 week 'Cursos de Verano' summer school, for over 120 local children and provides art supplies for 18 East Cape public schools. In addition to space in the printed version, your color ad appears in the online version at no additional cost. You can download the 2014/15 Advertising K it by visit ing our website at: www.eastcapearts.com.

Tax-deductable Contributions to the Asociación de Artes The Asociación de Artes del Mar de Cortez A.C., Los Barriles, B.C. Sur, Mexico is a legal non-profit Mexican corporation not affiliated with any other organization, association, club or business. The Asociación is in full compliance with the terms of the NAFTA agreement of January 1, 1994. As such, contributions made to the Asociación de Artes are tax-deductable in the United States, Mexico and Canada. For more information visit: www.eastcapearts.com.

Asociación de Artes Calendar of Events for 2014  February 13 - Artist’s Studio Tour  April 13 - Festival de Artes at Palmas de Cor-

tez (Sunday before Easter)  July - Three-week Cursos de Verano  December - Colina del Sol Art Festival

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East Capers Periódico Publisher Asociación de Artes del Mar de Cortez A.C., Los Barriles, BCS, Mexico

Editor Walter S. Zapotoczny Jr.

Copy Editor Pako Ford

Circulation Brian Cummings

Advertising Kathy Obenshain Dennis Linnet

Contributors Jorge Bergin John David Lionel Brooke Holly Burgin Hank Darlington Cherie Epstein Larry Epstein Bob Farmer Don Giottonini Gary Graham Adam Greenberg Connie M. Heinen Sefi Held JoAnn Hyslop Russ Hyslop Urmas Kaldveer, PhD Megan O’Leary Pablo Ponce John O. West Ted White Walter S. Zapotoczny Jr.

Printer Imprenta Ciudad Los Niños, La Paz, BCS, Mexico This publication is possible with the help of the board members of the Asociación de Artes and community members. The opinions expressed within the articles in East Capers are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Asociación de Artes del Mar de Cortez A.C.

Volunteers Needed!

The Asociación de Artes is looking for volunteers to help support their programs that bring the arts to the local communities and the schools. To learn more about these programs, visit: www.eastcapearts.com. If you would like to volunteer, send an email to: eastcapearts@gmail.com. Feb/Mar

Feb/Mar

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LBKiteboarding Kids

Mexican Proverbs

By Megan O'Leary

From “Mexican-American Folklore” by John O. West

BKiteboarding Kids is a not for profit, afterschool program in Los Barriles started by the owners of ExotiKite Kiteboarding in 2012. Ian Sanders and Megan O’Leary had talked for a number of years about creating an inexpensive and successful way to get local kids into kiteboarding. When a young member of the community tragically passed away as a result of drug use, they put their dream into reality. “We not only want to share our love of kiteboarding but also desired to give local students a positive, healthy, outlet during the afternoon when they are not in school” said Ian.

El árbol que crece torcido nunca se enderza. (The tree that grows crooked can never be straightened out). Nona en seda pero nona queda. (A monkey [dressed] in silk is still a monkey). No compres caballo de muchas fieras ni te cases con muchacha de muchos novios. (Don’t buy a wild horse, nor marry a girl with many boyfriends). Dinero mal prestado, en la loma se un venado. (Money loaned unwisely [is like putting it] on the back of a deer).

Wanting to make it a free program the first thing Megan needed to do was find sponsorship and creates programs through ExotiKite Kiteboarding to encourage donations. A portion of ExotiKite’s lessons proceeds and 100% of her SUP Yoga classes went directly to the program. “Once people heard what we were doing, the response was humbling.”, said Megan.. “We have had people not only donate monetarily, but also their time, old gear, and even putting on classes and events with a portion of their earning going directly to our kids.”

En boca cerrada no entran moscas. (A closed mouth catches no flies). El que adelante no mira, atrás se queda. (He who doesn’t look ahead stays behind).

Getting the kids to participate was the easy part. “The first class we only had about 4 kids show up, and we were very proud of that. But the next week, we had 16 kids show up, out of the blue! Our instructors were teaching groups of 4 kids at a time. It was crazy to organize and still conduct quality lessons, but absolutely doable and so, incredibly, fulfilling,” recalled Ian.

Feb/Mar

Ian has been teaching kiteboarding since 1998 in Los Barriles. He and Megan officially opened own ExotiKite Kiteboarding in 2004 and are passionate about giving everyone the opportunity to learn to kiteboard. Megan has also created a local women’s Kiteboarding group through the global non-profit KB4Girls. “It is awesome to see young girls in the community become interested in our LBKiteboarding Kids program,” said Megan, “I am so passionate about encouraging women to get into Kiteboarding. It isn’t a “power” sport; you need more finesse than strength, making it perfect for women. I hope that some of the girls we have in the program now, continue, and become ambassadors for women’s sports themselves.” Students will learn from professional, certified instructors. Emphasis on safety and competence before progression is required. Lessons are conducted in Spanish and are completed in a safe and enjoyable manner. They encourage and support responsible, local students to join LBKiteboarding Kids. This afterschool program is completely free to the student and their family. When the students complete the program they will also have the opportunity to assist with daily operations at the school. “We have a couple of kids from last year helping out at the school, earning a little money, and, in return, also able to use our gear to go out and kiteboard on their own. It’s win, win as far as I can see,” says Ian. For more information please contact Ian or Megan at losbarrileskiteboarding@gmail.com.

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Donna Shares Some History By Bob Farmer onna Ryan’s [Roadrunner Café & Bakery] desire to own and operate a restaurant may be in her blood. Her cousin William Bovee, who was born in 1823, owned a coffee and spice business in Manhattan, New York. William was smitten with gold fever in 1849 and set sail for San Francisco to try his luck in the gold fields near Sutter’s Mill. After spending all his money on provisions and failing to get rich, he returned to the business of coffee which he knew. In 1850, he opened the first coffee roasting plant in San Francisco located at Broadway and DuPont. He called the business “Pioneer Steam Coffee and Spice Mill.” The company sold roasted, ground and packaged coffee in labeled tins. William knew that “ready to brew” coffee was what the busy miners would want. A 27 year old employee named Jim Folger, purchased the company around 1860 from William. The company became Folger’s Coffee.

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Bakery. The photo below that shows the deli was taken around 1899. They operated the deli until about 1915 when they moved to Texas to start a business making ice cream cones. Donna’s grandfather who was a son-in-law to the Keeley’s became a partner. They eventually had a chain of candy stores in 3 states called “Keeley’s Kandies.”

Donna’s Great Grandparents, Samuel and Clara Keeley, owned a deli-style store on SE Main Street in Portland Oregon called Keeley’s 4

Feb/Mar

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Sulfur in Mexican Diesel: An Update for Owners of 2007.5 - 2014 Pickups By Ted White

Live Stronger Longer: Functional Training Elixir for Preserving Youth By Sefi Held he fact is everyone ages! However, we can to a great extent influence our ageing by the choices we make every day. What we put in our bodies, how many hours a day we just sit and how we move those bodies contribute to how slowly or quickly we age. Research has proven that we need to move more, sit less, and eat less in order to manage our weight and achieve health and fitness. A lifestyle inclusive of regular exercise and movement (aerobic, resistance, stretching, relaxation) and sensible eating will help prevent high blood pressure, heart disease, certain types of cancer, type II diabetes, osteoporosis and obesity. There are over 10,000 North Americans turning 65 every single day and this will continue for the next 17 years! A minimum of four hours of moderate intensity activity each week can dramatically improve the chances of living longer. Just think what would happen if you incorporated some activity into your life on a daily basis – almost a way of turning back the clock so you can feel stronger, look healthier and live independently!! It’s all about “fun-ctional” activities. Functional exercise has been described as exercise programs that mimic the activities and movements we use everyday. These are multi-planar movements that require coordination of muscle groups and joints of two or more limbs of the body. 32

Included are the six primal movements of pushing, pulling, bending, squatting, lunging and twisting. These motions are all patterns of movement that you will find in your everyday activities. Throw in some balance training to keep from falling over and injuring yourself and you’ll be on top of the world. When we perform functional activities that mirror everyday life, we enhance our ability to move and perform by increasing overall strength, stamina, movement skills and confidence. This is really, really important as we age. When we no longer are able to move and do activities we once were able to do, we start to feel older in both the body and the mind. Functional exercise is life-enhancing, convenient, time and cost-effective. You are investing in yourself!! As I mentioned above, there are literally hundreds of benefits associated with regular activity as it relates to aging and it is vitally important to preserve your brain, heart and lean muscle mass, hormones, bone density, metabolism and body composition. All of these help contribute to feeling and looking better, and to moving independently with efficiency and ease into our seventies, eighties, nineties and that second century!

or those not familiar with this topic, Mexican diesel fuel contains up to 500 ppm of sulfur, while the ultra low sulfur fuel in Canada and the USA is restricted to 15 ppm. Unfortunately, the higher sulfur levels in Mexican diesel can cause temporary “sulfur poisoning” on pickup trucks with diesel particulate filters (DPF) and selective catalytic reducers (SCR). DPFs were introduced in the 2007.5 model year, SCRs were added by Ford and GM in 2011, and Dodge introduced SCRs in 2014. Your pickup truck has SCR technology if you have to add Diesel Exhaust Fluid (DEF) to a separate on-board tank. THE GOOD NEWS Despite the potential for emissions system problems on DPF and SCR equipped pickups, laboratory testing prior to 2007 suggested that 2007.5 through 2010 model year diesels, whether Ford, GM, or Dodge, would tolerate well the higher sulfur Mexican diesel. This has indeed turned out to be the “real world” situation. There can be occasional bluish exhaust smoke during regeneration cycles, when soot is being burned out of the DPF, but no serious fault conditions are triggered. In addition, testing prior to the release of DPF equipped pickups confirmed that there would be no permanent damage to the emissions system, as long as higher sulfur fuels were not used for more than 40,000 continuous miles. For 2011 and 2012 model years, some owners

have experienced occasional engine light illumination, and “DEF QUALITY POOR” warnings. Those warnings typically disappear, however, following a 15 minute high speed run, OR during subsequent heavy trailer towing, OR after the next regeneration. All of these situations usually raise exhaust gas temperatures high enough to purge sulfur compounds from the system. DEF QUALITY POOR warnings tend to occur after a fifth wheel or other heavy trailer has been disconnected, and the truck has been driven around locally in Mexico for several weeks. Lower exhaust temperatures while unloaded permit the buildup of sulfur compounds, reducing the efficiency of the emissions system until an error code is triggered. The Diesel Exhaust Fluid is NOT the culprit in these cases, even though that is the message displayed. It is simply a matter of the engine computer interpreting higher than expected NOX (oxides of nitrogen) in the exhaust as evidence that the DEF is not doing its job. THE “NOT-SO-GOOD” NEWS In 2013, Environmental Protection Agency monitoring requirements for NOX in the exhaust became much stricter. Monitoring is more frequent, and NOX must remain within a tighter tolerance level. In addition, regenerations to burn off the soot and sulfur compounds are less frequent. As a result, 2013 and later model year diesel pickups are more likely to register fault codes while in Mexico, and clearing the codes is more complex. Continued on page 8

~ Sefi Held is certified in A.C.E. fitness, personal training, Canfitpro, Yoga and Pilates. She is an older adult fitness specialist and Zumba Gold Certified and Licensed. She can be reached at sefi@heldinmotion.com.

Feb/Mar

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Brazilian Dorado Stew From the U.K. Food Channel Ingredients  400g dorado, chopped into large pieces  2 tsp crushed garlic  4 Tbsp lime juice (Careful, don’t overdo – maybe add less and taste as you go!)  Salt and pepper  Olive oil  1 onion, finely chopped  1/2 yellow bell pepper, chopped  2 pimento peppers, chopped  2c chopped tomatoes  1 Tbsp Spanish paprika  Pinch or two of chili flakes  1 large bunch of coriander, chopped (keep a little for garnishing)  400 ml coconut milk

Blown Away By John David Lionel Brooke Festive confetti colored wings pepper blue skies over Palmas Bay In the salty sea below wave-warriors skid o’er angry choppy surf Airborne off the rolling waves tumbling above the foaming spray From the raging seas beneath that are the valiant kiteboaders turf

Instructions 1. Marinate the chopped up fish pieces in the lime juice, garlic and some salt and pepper. Leave in the fridge while you prepare the rest. 2. In a large pan sauté the onions in the oil until translucent. Add the peppers, paprika and chili flakes and season with salt and pepper. 3. Cook for a few minutes until the peppers begin to soften. 4. Stir in the chopped tomatoes and simmer for 5 minutes, uncovered. Add the coriander. 5. Remove about half of the veggies and set aside. Spread the remaining veggies over the bottom of the pan and add the fish on top of the vegetables. 6. Return the other veggies to the pan covering the fish. Add the coconut milk and simmer for 15 minutes. Season to taste.

Aerobatic clowns on taut piano strings make new wave music Paeans worship Lord of the Wind in gale force 6 January breeze Provides spectators and themselves a spectacular adrenalin kick Shoot high and higher into turbulent winds fly to blue to please Windsurfers crisscross waves further out on their butterfly wings Shark finning slicing their way through walls of watery troughs Know when to tack then head downwind masters of skittish zings Steadfast in their artful task steady as she blows skilled showoffs As the strong winds fade to gentle zephyrs fleets of SUPS appear Stately standup paddlers stroke boards smoothly over glassy brine Dauntless their artful balancing ballet slide neatly showing no fear Skilled wind players all will come again to worship at our shrine.

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Serve with crusty bread. Given its resemblance to bouillabaisse, pair with a rosé wine.

Feb/Mar

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Reasons Why Writing is Awesome (Excerpt from the Asociación de Artes Writer’s Workshop)

By Walter S. Zapotoczny Jr. he freedom to do exactly what you want. Writing for you has no limitations. You can make up whatever you want. Ignore the censor hidden somewhere within the back of your mind. There are no limitations on what, or how you write. The only limitations you operate under are the ones you set yourself. Writing is fun. Regardless of how much joy was sucked out of you through your English teachers in school, I promise you that writing can be fun. It does not matter who you are in real life. Once you start writing, you can do whatever you want. You can dream up fantasies that you could not act out normally, like climbing Mt. Everest or exploring Mars. You can change history – have the Russians land on the moon first. You can make up your own worlds and hide in them until your hand cramps. Nobody can tell you that you are wrong. Do you remember the last time someone told you that you were wrong? It felt horrible, did it not? That feeling leads many people to withdraw from being adventuresome and experimental. Writing can be a surprising and liberating experience. Every blank page is a canvas, waiting for your directions. You are the architect of this world, the controller of the content. Having fun writing is what it is all about. A caution: If you show other people your work when you first start, expect the unenlightened to try to correct you. Some of them are doing it out of a misguided sense of helpfulness – they have to find something. Others are correcting you because of their own panicky reaction to your demonstration of freedom. Thank them and then go find someone with a sense of fun. Creative writing makes your other writing better. Writing is an art form, like music and dance. It is a skill, like driving a car or painting a house. As with both arts and skills, the more you practice, the better you get. In her book, The Right to Write, Julia Cameron suggests that in order to practice and get better, you write what she calls 30

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“Morning Papers.” She does it in the morning, before her thoughts are crowded from the activities of the day. It is like practicing with a musical instrument. You can write about whatever comes to mind at the time. Even if you only have a few minutes - just write. Writers are born approximately one every three seconds. Great writers are not made; they make themselves, by writing, as much as their heart tells them they need to, by revising their work, and by seeking out new ideas and sketching them out. Even if you are only writing for your own amusement, you will find that over time writing in the other areas of your life improves. The process of writing, and especially of revision, teaches you to spot gaps in your writing technique. Good technical writing will come instinctively as you write more and more. You will notice what works and what does not work. Sentences that seemed fine in your head will seem awkward on the page. A few chops and changes later, you will have a little gem that you will be rightfully proud of. The fundamentals of good writing are universal. You can write about cool things. This is where writers get to really have fun, splash around, and enjoy themselves. Make a list of 10 things you have done in your life. Pick a couple and write about them. You can share your work easily, if you choose. Submit an article to East Capers. East Capers is looking for fiction and stories about our region and items that affect our residents. If you are interested in submitting articles, recipes, stories or your personal experiences in Baja, email your 1,000-word or less article to kaojaa@gmail.com.

Libelula Art Studio By Cherie Epstein reativity abounds in the Libelula Art Studio! Located in the Healing Winds Holistic Center, Libelula is a gathering place for those seeking artistic expression and connection with others in a relaxed and friendly atmosphere. The art studio opened two months ago thanks to the incredible vision of Tehroma Lask, architect and artist, who conceived and designed Healing Winds. From the central courtyard, the Libelula Art Studio draws you in with abundant natural lighting from five skylights, bright white walls and a myriad of art materials and media. The offerings at Libelula include scheduled classes and open drop-in times for making art. ArtPlay: Creativity Workshop, based on the book The Artist’s Way, was offered in the fall. Participants experimented with liquid watercolors, mixed media sculptures, collage, and oil pastels. Lively discussions resulted from using art materials in new and unexpected ways. The SoulCollage Workshop focuses on selfreflection. Although the technique of creating small, collaged cards from magazine pictures is simple, the resulting images are rich with imagery and meaning. The cards are an excellent way to check in with yourself and others, similar to using a tarot deck or inspiration cards. The most popular workshop is Altered Books, also known as “Amazing Magical Books”. Starting with a hardcover book, the artist re-creates

it by adding paint, collage, ribbons, folds, pockets, niches, and more. The possibilities are unlimited for creative expression. There are two classes available for making these books. Libelula also offers an Open Drop-In time on Tuesdays (noon-2pm) for those wanting to work on their own projects. So, we invite you to come and check out the offerings at Libelula Art Studio. It’s a special place full of amazing energy and creative passion! For more information, please contact Tehroma at romalask@prodigy.net.mx or Cheri at cherart.mx@gmail.com or look us up on Facebook at Healing Winds Holistic Center.

~ Walter S. Zapotoczny Jr. is an award-winning writer and editor, with over 25 years experience producing many different types of copy. He is the author of over 150 published articles and three books. You can read some of his writing at www.wzaponline.com.

Feb/Mar

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Continued from page 5 Also for 2013 and later model years, the distance which can be travelled after a DEF fault is triggered, and before “limp mode” (maximum speed 4mph) is initiated, gets accelerated with time. This means that the available non-limpmode miles often disappear more quickly than warranted by the distance travelled, creating a stressful experience for owners. Luckily, not every owner will experience a sulfur -in-fuel fault condition, but when it happens, the key is to get the truck to do a regeneration as soon as possible. Once the emissions system is cleared of sulfur compounds by the heat of a regeneration cycle, the engine computer stops thinking that there is a problem with the DEF, and the fault condition disappears. It is critical that a regeneration be initiated well before limp mode occurs, because the vehicle must be driven at highway speeds for about 35 minutes while the regeneration takes place. FORCING A REGENERATION CYCLE Unfortunately, there is no direct method for an owner to force a regeneration, but there is a very workable indirect method based on EPA requirements that regenerations must occur approximately twice as often if there is a problem with the DPF pressure sensors. So, disconnecting the DPF pressure sensors can force a regeneration, provided that more than half the normal distance between regenerations has already been travelled.

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sulfur compounds, and clears the DEF warning. Detailed instructions can be made available to owners experiencing a fault condition, although it is more complicated when limp mode has already occurred. Please note though that the information provided in this article, and to owners who need assistance, should not be interpreted as an endorsement or encouragement by the author for owners of 2007.5 and later pickup trucks to drive them into Mexico. Hopefully, Pemex will soon begin producing ulsd diesel, and this annual complication for many Snowbirds will be eliminated for good, but irrespective of the manufacturer of your pickup, if it requires Diesel Exhaust Fluid, be sure to take at least 5 gallons with you into Mexico. The only confirmed source in Mexico at this time is Napa Auto Parts, which will special order DEF from the USA at around twice the normal price.

~ Owners needing more specific information, or with a personal experience to share, can contact me at whitetmp@aol.com. I would particularly welcome data about the 2014 Dodge vehicles which use DEF, as there is not yet any “real world” data available.

Typically, immediately after disconnecting the DPF pressure sensors, the driver will see a message that soot filter cleaning has started and to keep driving at highway speeds until it is finished. If half the normal distance between regenerations has not yet been travelled, it could be up to 200 hundred miles before a regeneration is triggered, but odds are, for a fault to have been triggered by excess sulfur buildup, it is likely that more than half the normal distance since the last regeneration has already been travelledKnowing how to unplug the DPF pressure sensors on 2013 and later model years will usually allow an owner to trigger a regeneration, which in turn purges the SCR of 8

Feb/Mar

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Safari Club Members Rescue Endangered Sea Life By Don Giottonini n a resent fishing trip on Senor Don in the Sea of Cortez, Baja California Sur. Sacramento Safari Club president Don Giottonini and member Rick Cirillo found a endangered sea turtle helplessly tangled in a shark buoy line. Upon seeing the turtle was in life threatening distress, fishing came to a sc r e e c h i n g halt. All fishing line were reeled in and stowed. We backed the boat up to the trapped turtle. Javi, Poncho and Lee Cota hoisted the sea turtle on

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the swim step. These young men are sons and nephews of the famed East Cape fishing family, Javier, Alberto, Chui (sandwich) and Mario Cota. Ten minutes later we had the line cut free from the turtle's front fin. We turned the turtle back on his belly and slid him off the swim step. Sea turtles may move slow on land but this turtle was off like a rocket without a thank you, much to our joy.

~ Don Giottonini is the Sacramento California Safari Club president, hunter, fisherman and above all a conservationist. He is a resident of Buena Vista, BCS.

Answer to riddle on page 22:

Spinning Wheel

Feb/Mar

The Intimate and True Adventures of “El Ballenero” Episode 4: Discovering the Whales of Baja California Sur By Urmas Kaldveer, PhD y interest in whales, at least from the research perspective, had waned so I resigned my position and assumed that any chance of my REALLY becoming involved with “The Whale People” on the level I wanted to was slim at best and my connection to them was over.

the event was if I returned to the water, made myself open to another encounter and wait until whatever fear and trepidation I had, totally dissipated. I rolled back in, dove down, scanned the area and then returned to the surface. I then turned on my back and lay spread eagled until the fear was gone. It looked like my trip around the cape had gotten off to a good start!

In 1999 my wife and I took a trip to Baja California Sur, to visit friends who had bought property and built a house in a small fishing village called El Cardonal on The East Cape. We bought a small lot and placed a trailer on it. At this point I decided to offer some Eco-Tours to El Cardonal for students and residents of my then “hometown” of Ukiah, California. On my first six month stay in El Cardonal in 2004, now divorced and semi-retired from college teaching, I decided to do a solo kayaking and SCUBA diving tour around the Cape Region (driving).

I drove to Loreto and set up camp on Juncalito Beach just south of the town. The next day I went in and I asked around to see if anyone knew where “the Canadian whale guy” might be. We met and his enthusiasm, intelligence and respect for the whales touched that “unfulfilled” spot in me, and my fantasy to see into the “eye of the whale” took fire once more. The next morning I awoke to what was a beautiful Baja day. Isla del Carmen is just four miles distant from Juncalito Beach and without a second thought I grabbed my gear, some food and launched off the beach in Haldjas, my trusty kayak. As I approached the island I saw some blows ahead of me and they were definitely blue whale blows. I stayed with them for an hour or more and then I slowly began paddling back to Juncalito beach.

My first venture was to the reef at Cabo Pulmo where I spotted a school of barracuda under me so I rolled out of my kayak to get a better look. Suddenly they darted away and I “felt” the presence of something bigger nearby. I turned to my right and there, not more than four feet away was a 7’ shark. The shark was clearly aware of me and as it swam next to me and I got a good look in it’s eye. I “felt” such a primal energy in him that I became a bit, but only a bit, frightened. As I was running out of air (I was free diving) I slowly began to rise to the surface and inadvertently came up right under my kayak, banging my head. This is when I got my second “hit” of primal energy as I saw the shark take off like, well, I don’t know what to say but like only a shark can. I don’t remember lifting myself into my kayak, I think I must have shot out of the water as if catapulted and found myself sitting on it a bit out of breath and my heart pounding. As I sat in my kayak and “chilled out” I began to feel ashamed. What to do? I decided that the only way that I could feel good about

As I was about half way across I saw to my right (North) that there was a single whale about a mile off and moving at a cruising speed parallel to the mainland and might, just might, be in the right position for a “close encounter.” By the time I was about one mile from shore I could see it was a big blue whale. At a distance that I would estimate as perhaps 100 yards it fluked and went down. I paddled a bit further and then all MY SENSES told me I was in the exact right position for the moment it would resurface. It rose out of the water on my right and not more than 75’ away. The whale, now appearing ENORMOUS, came to within 30’ of my kayak, arched, passing directly under me at about ten feet below. I went to see Richard the next day and told him of my experience. He then asked me if I might consider ID'ing any blue whales that passed close to El Cardonal the following season (2005). I replied “of course,” and without knowing it, this was to be the real beginning of a now ten year long journey with “The Whale People.”

Feb/Mar

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Bikes for Orphans By Adam Greenberg ue to the generosity of many people in this community and abroad, the gifts of exercise, fun and independence were given to the 30 children currently residing at El Albergue Infantil Nueva Creación orphanage in La Paz this Christmas. Each child received a brand new bicycle complete with a helmet, water bottle, water bottle holder and lock. I became aware of this orphanage in December of 2011 during my family's visit to our casa in Los Barriles. I was sitting at what used to be Loco Rico’s bar on the beach one afternoon when a man with a few children showed up. They had some ornate wooden boxes with them. The man introduced himself as Roberto Osuna Tello. He explained that he was in charge of an orphanage in La Paz. Each child introduced himself and shook my hand. I was impressed with their interactions with me. He asked if I wanted to buy a box from them to support the orphanage. His face lit up with extreme gratitude when I purchased one. He told me how much the kids loved visitors and asked me to visit the orphanage and children. I soon went for a visit with my wife Tracey and our daughter Eliana. When we arrived, the children flocked to us and took turns shaking our hands. They seemed elated to have visitors. Before going there, we weren't sure what we were going to encounter and were worried that our visit could prove to be depressing. It was, however, otherwise. The children were happy, the people working there were happy, the grounds were nicely manicured, the rooms were clean, the children were clean, the buildings were painted...it was an uplifting place to be. Everyone seemed proud of their home and the love was definitely palpable. We learned that there aren't any state run orphanages and that the Mexican government gives little to no funding for orphanages. Many orphans end up in jails because there is nowhere for them. Roberto himself had come from hard times growing up. Since Roberto had been 10

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saved from his troubled youth, he decided that he needed to give back and help children in his community. The orphanage he began is sustained mainly by the community, local church and through the sales of items made in the orphanage’s workshop such as clocks, pens and boxes. The idea of getting bicycles for the orphans came to me after attending a team building event where I work, where we built bicycles for low-income, inner-city kids. When we presented the children with their new bicycles it was very moving to see the joy it brought them. It was at this moment that I decided the kids at Nueva Creación orphanage would all get a new bike for Christmas. To do this we needed to raise money. Tracey created a webpage using the free online fundraising site www.YouCaring.com and the fundraiser was born. We advertised in the Baja Pony Express, on Facebook, Twitter and by word of mouth and in the end, 48 friends, colleagues, family members and strangers from Canada and the US generously donated a total of $5,724 CDN. I contacted Menifee Bicycles in San Diego (the same bicycle company that was involved in the team building event) and they generously donated their profits by providing all the bikes and accessories at cost. They even threw in the water bottles for free! The next hurdle was to figure out how to get them to the Baja and into storage until we could come down, assemble and deliver them. That whole situation was facilitated by Pam Gray of Homes and Land of Baja, Blake Gage of Desert Rose Development, and Josefina Ruiz of Seven Seas Property Management. We were introduced to Paul de Smit of Plum-Loco who arranged the shipping and even managed to get some of the bikes shipped for free by way of a donation from the shipping company. Our friends in Los Barriles, Steve and Deb Bianchini, then stored everything in their bodega for several months. Continued on page 27 Feb/Mar

Continued from page 10 When we arrived in the Baja in December we moved everything from Steve and Deb’s bodega over to our casa and then stared at the 32 boxes of unassembled bikes. Hmmm…another hurdle. We needed help, so we put an ad in the BPE to recruit volunteers who could help us assemble them. What a response we received with about 20 enthusiastic volunteers from the community joining us at our Casa on a sunny December 23rd for an assembly party. Special mention goes to my sister in law Valerie and her husband Rob for their generosity and support; to Brad Leary who brought his professional bike tools; and, an extra special mention goes to Dieter Bulin who put in overtime going over each bike to make sure it was safe. Lunch for all assemblers was generously catered and donated by Lupe Cota.

a bicycle before and we helped them ride around. Do you remember your first bike? It was a very joyful experience for everyone present including Mike and Cathy Perkins who wanted to witness it for themselves after having helped assemble the bikes the day before. Thank you to everyone who donated money, time, expertise, resources and to those who helped spread the word about the fundraiser. I’m sorry if there was anyone I forgot to mention specifically. It was definitely a team effort. I encourage everyone to visit El Albergue Infantil Nueva Creación Orphanage in La Paz. They do need support to help keep the children fed, clothed, schooled, etc.; however, Roberto told me that what they want most is visitors. Like any of us, they want to feel loved and cared about. Any generosity shown to them will help them to become more caring adults…it’s the “Ripple Effect.” For more information you can contact Alma or Roberto Osuna Cel. 612 1515632 or 6121056052. Roberto speaks some English.

On Christmas Eve all of the bikes and accessories were loaded into two huge vans and driven to the orphanage. When we arrived, the children were hiking in the mountains. They had no idea what they were about to receive. When they arrived back to the orphanage they spotted the vans and ran towards them with much excitement. Some of them peeked in the windows and saw the bikes. They all started cheering, hugging and giving high-fives. The helmets and bikes were distributed according to each child’s size. We even got two bikes for the adults so they could go for rides with the children.

To see more pictures and videos please visit: http://www.flickr.com/photos/61640635@N07/ sets/72157639030379284/

Most of the children already knew how to ride and raced all around the orphanage grounds. There were also a few who had never been on Feb/Mar

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The Mexican Kitchen: An Adventure in

Continued from page 11

Vibrant Flavors and Rich Tradition

By Holly Burgin

Now that we can identify these dried chiles and their flavors and characteristics, how do we prepare them? Grinding the chiles produces one flavor, toasting before grinding produces another, and soaking the chiles in water produces yet another. In the next issue we will learn all about preparing, blending and using dried chiles to make delicious seasoning and sauces.

must admit that I avoided cooking with dried chiles for years. They were so dark and wrinkled and mysterious. With the guidance provided in the cookbooks of chef Rick Bayless and Diana Kennedy, the depth, flavor and nuance of these wonderful seasonings began to reveal themselves. Like most adventures in the kitchen, the extra time and effort to appreciate the traditions of preparation and the combination with other ingredients pays a wonderful reward of rich complex flavors and aromas of authentic, and let me add “gourmet,” Mexican cuisine.

Remember, even the mildest chiles can be irritating to skin (and worse, eyes). Avoid direct contact with the chiles by wearing disposable gloves or putting your hands in food grade plastic bags when handling fresh or dried chiles.

Although dried chiles have other uses, most often they are prepared as flavoring for sauces, salsas in Spanish. But how do you know which to choose? How spicy are they? What are their flavors? Like wine tasting, with experience you learn to appreciate the subtleties of dried chiles. As you are developing your palette, this article will help you learn to identify dried chiles and their varied flavors and characteristics. The dried chiles described here are readily available in our local markets.

See earlier articles to learn more about the history and scientific information about chiles, http:// iss uu.com / wa lters . za poto c znyj r. /doc s/ issue_63_april-may_2013_color), as well as the chile heat index and other characteristics of fresh c h ile s , ht t p : / / is s u u. c o m / lo s b a r r ile s / d o c s / issue_65_dec-jan_2013_color_final_.

Ancho & Mulato Chiles These are two different varieties of dried Poblano chiles and tend to be significantly hotter than either of the fresh green Poblano varieties. Both are wideshouldered, Ancho being a very dark cranberry color, Mulatos being almost black. Anchos are mild to medium hot with a deep, rich, dark cherry/raisin sweetness. They have a high yield of flesh to skin, which makes them a great choice for Mexican sauces, especially in mole. Mole is the generic name for a number of Mexican sauces, but often refers to mole poblano, made from chiles, nuts, seeds and chocolate and served over chicken or meat. Weight: 2 chiles per ounce. Beware: In Michoacán and in California, Ancho chiles are sometimes labeled "Pasilla chiles," but Ancho chiles are much wider at the stem and milder than true Pasillas.

Chipotle Chiles Chipotles are ripe (red) Jalapeños slowly smoked over a natural wood fire until they are infused with layers of smoky flavor and are completely dried, wrinkled and either black-red 26

Feb/Mar

(mora/morita) or light-brown (meco) in color. Both can be very spicy. The former is spicier and is available packed in adobo sauce in cans. Chipotle chiles are used to season chili sauce, salsas, soups and stews, slow-cooked meat dishes, and bean dishes. Chipotles are sometimes combined with other peppers to make a chili paste for rubbing on meats or vegetables, and they’re ground and combined with other spices to flavor adobo (meat marinade or rub). Weight: 4 to 10 chiles per ounce. Gaujillo Chiles These "little gourds" are dried Mirasol chiles. Fresh, these chiles may be difficult to find, but dried are readily available. They have long, shiny, tapered pods with deep orange to cranberry-red skins and measure about 4 to 6 inches long and 1 to 1 1/2 inches across. The skins are tough and, to make them pliable, they will require soaking longer than other varieties of chiles. Gaujillo chiles are used to make traditional red sauces. They are “spicy” and “dynamic,” with a tangy complex flavor and undertones of citrus. This bright chile, with moderate smokiness, makes a deliciously complex Adobo sauce or Chile colorado sauce. Weight: 4 chiles per ounce. Pasilla Chiles Pasillas are long and thin and almost black in color with wrinkled skins. A true Pasilla chile is a dried Chilaca chile pepper. Dr. Jean Andrews, chile researcher and writer, reports that Chilaca chiles never lose their chlorophyll when they ripen and that is the reason these "chile negros" have a dark chocolate brown color. Pasilla chiles add a subtle, prune-like flavor, with a hint of licorice, to sauces. They can be very hot and add a distinctly complex, slightly astringent flavor to dishes, making them well suited to richer meats like lamb and duck and balancing out heavy stews and rich sauces. The dark flesh of these "chile negros" yields a dark red- brown puree that is often blended with cream. Weight: 3 chiles per ounce. For photos of these dried chiles and descriptions of additional dried chiles (and fresh chiles too), The Cook’s Thesaurus is a great resource. http:// w ww. f o o d s ub s . c o m / C hi le d r y. ht m l ( ht t p : / / www.foodsubs.com/Chilefre.html )

Continued on page 26 11

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Another Good Day for Radio Fishing

tion and how I sound when it’s for real.

By Jorge Bergin

“Hornet, Hornet, Christy B 1 here. Just how far out are you? We’re almost 3 off the lighthouse north north east and I don’t see boat one. You in a panga?”

ot a little bit of flack for Radio Fishing here in Palmas Bay. So to set that straight all I can say is that I only use the gringo radio channel and if there’s traffic I just don’t do it. I’ve never transmitted on the emergency channel and it’s futile for me to try to communicate with the resorts’ cruiser fishing fleet captains because I usually only get one word in ten when they are chatting back and forth just to kill time. Just having a little fun and adding some electronic vicarious stimulation to gringos trolling for hours without much action or adventure. I do my Radio fishing usually when I’m busy on the computer writing or researching; I have all the time in the world to do what I’m doing, leave the radio ocean for short breaks for snacks and or libation from the kitchen. Good fishing day yesterday when I caught the Christy B out of our marina heading into the sun way too late for bait. He was talking to his house in Buena Vista when I busted in. “Christy B 1, you got the Green Hornet here. Did you get gas at the marina?” “Hornet, no gas there --- had to haul it from the Pemex like always. What’s your 20?” “I’m about 6 off the lighthouse. I’m draggin’ dead mackerela from Pepe. Slim pickins’ on the bait right now and I, hold on, hold on, Dave, no pressure, no pressure, let him have it…..”

“Christy, I don’t have my GPS hooked up. I can’t see the sand on the beach and around here that means about 7 miles. We got a nice dorado aboard and the better news is we’re in a trash filled scum line, draggin’ more strips and we’ve got chunk bait and hooks all ready to go if we hook up, see followers.” Half a page of fiction, a quick trip to the baño, answered a call from wife on the cell, looked up a phone number for her and got back on the radio. “Christy, can you see the birds? Man I’ve never seen so many birds feeding out here. We’re runnin’ hard to get to the bait ball. Have no idea what’s feeding on what but it must be huge numbers. I’ll get back to you---Dave has a problem with his reel.” Now really breathless “Christy B, a whale, a dead whale, wooo ha, look for the birds, look for the birds, man what a day, we, whoa Dave, can you see em, can you see em there, no, further out, further out wha…” All that drama wore me out so I turned off the radio and made a nice egg salad sandwich. Goes so well with a cold Pacifico there should be law against it.

I wrote a couple of paragraphs, looked up the legal definition of “Entrapment” for the story, got some more coffee. “Christy, sorry, had a double on marlin. Lost one way out and released the other at the boat. While we were fighting them we saw two other jumpers so this is the area I guess. We don’t have any more dead bait so we’re just draggin’ skip bait from big barilette we caught on the way out. I guess we’re gonna go more toward, Dave, Dave, whoa, nice fish, nice fish, gotta go, nice dorado, Dave don’t, he’s got it, don’t pu….” The real trick on this thing is when to get breathless, raise your voice. I just think of ac12

Feb/Mar

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The Muses of México By Cheri and Larry Epstein he dictionary defines muse as “somebody who inspires an artist.” In turn art means “creation by humans.” So a muse is one who inspires us to create. Saint Bartholomew said, “Spend time every day listening to what your muse is trying to tell you.” Twenty centuries later it is still good advice, especially in Baja. Here what inspires us most is Nature --- dawn, tides, wind, surf, sun, clouds, and dusk. Ralph Waldo Emerson said, “Health is the first muse, and sleep is the condition to produce it.” Sleep comes pretty easy here. We are serenaded by gentle waves lapping the shore, rays slapping the water, and palm fronds and flying creatures wafting on ocean breezes. Perhaps we learn to nap and wake refreshed whenever that muse calls at midday. But rest is a vessel that can be filled to overflowing and that holds little more than dreams. Other muses call. Stephen Nachmanovich, American educator and musician, said, “The most potent muse of all is our own inner child.” Here that child can run free. If we get out of our child’s way by being open to the moment and to our natural spontaneity, we enjoy a resurgence of energy, a release of the unconscious, and an invitation to explore something new. Many of us first take a muse home. That is, we design and build or find a casa here, a setting that feels relaxed and secure. Maybe it is a structure of block, glass, concrete and rebar; maybe a palapa and bodega. Perhaps it takes only a trailer or a tent in a community of likeminded people to feel at home. The act of making a place is inherently creative. Even if only temporarily, we make it ours. John Updike once said, “I would especially like to court the muse of poetry, who ran off with the mailman four years ago, and drops me only a scribbled postcard from time to time.” Perhaps we are that postal carrier or his or her lover, escaping to Baja. Here some of us journal, writing to ourselves and our posterity. Some of us pen words to friends and family. 24

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Some of us assemble our experiences into neat travelogues and photo journals.

The Beaufort Wind Scale

Poet and filmmaker James Broughton said, “The most astonishing joy is to receive from the muses the gift of a whole lyric.” Such a gift can come at any moment. Some of us wake at odd hours, hearing our unconscious call out in the night. Unable to return to sleep, we rise to the challenge of our muse and write. Sometimes we produce poems or short ditties, quaint or funny. Once from my dreams I rose to write a whole play in rhyming iambic verse. Now the muse of drama will nurse this play to fruition.

ost mariners are familiar with the World Meteorological Organization (WMO) classification as it relates to wind conditions at sea, e.g., fresh breeze, gale, storm, etc. Some of us may not be familiar with the sea conditions that correspond to the classifications. This is where the Beaufort Wind Scale comes in.

But as the Buddha said, “The virtues, like the Muses, are always seen in groups. A good principle was never found solitary in any breast.” So the muses have an affinity for each other. There are muses all around us: in fishing, kiting, sailing the wind, surfing the waves, cooking and baking, creating and recreating, building and rebuilding, preserving and protecting, loving and being loved, writing prose and reading, making art, designing, tiling, singing, making mayhem, writing and playing music, sewing, knitting and crocheting, weaving, throwing pots, fusing glass, tilling the soil and tending earth’s bounty, giving of ourselves to others, teaching and learning… and the list goes on without end. We hear and follow those muses if our minds remain open to them. American artist Jill Badonsky once wrote, “Often the muse will not respond to direct and logical requests. She must be lured in with the playful and gentle.” So we must be gentle with our selves or else the muse may not appear. If we stay open to the subtle influence of the muses and vulnerable in spite of our doubt and fear, we can nurture the tender turf of unrealized ideas and make them grow. The Greek poet Hesiod, writing in the 7 th century B.C. said, “Happy is the man whom the muses love. Sweet speech flows from his mouth.” Who am I to argue with the wisdom of the ages? Listen quietly for your muse and, welcoming him or her into your life, drink of the sweetness of the creative life.

From the U.K. National Meteorological Library

Its full name is the Beaufort Wind Force Scale. The scale is an empirical measure that relates wind speed to observed conditions at sea or on land. The scale was devised in 1805 by Francis Beaufort (later Rear Admiral Sir Francis Beaufort), an Irish Royal Navy officer, while serving on HMS Woolwich. Below is the “On Water” section... Force

Wind (Knots)

WMO Classification

Calm

Sea surface smooth and mirror-like

1-3

Light Air

Scaly ripples, no foam crests

4-6

Light Breeze

Small wavelets, crests glassy, no breaking

7-10

Gentle Breeze

Large wavelets, crests begin to break, scattered whitecaps

11-16

Moderate Breeze Small waves 1-4 ft. becoming longer, numerous whitecaps

17-21

Fresh Breeze

Moderate waves 4-8 ft. taking longer form, many whitecaps, some spray

22-27

Strong Breeze

Larger waves 8-13 ft., whitecaps common, more spray

28-33

Near Gale

34-40

Gale

41-47

Strong Gale

Sea heaps up, waves 13-19 ft., white foam streaks off breakers Moderate high 18-25 ft. waves of greater length, edges of crests begin to break into spindrift, foam blown in streaks High waves 23-32 ft., sea begins to roll, dense streaks of foam, spray may reduce visibility

48-55

Storm

56-63

Violent Storm

64>

Hurricane

On Water

Very high waves 29-41 ft. with overhanging crests, sea white with densely blown foam, heavy rolling, lowered visibility Exceptionally high 37-52 ft. waves, foam patches cover sea, visibility more reduced Air filled with foam, waves over 45 ft., sea completely white with driving spray, visibility greatly reduced

For more information about the scale, go to: http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/media/pdf/4/4/Fact_Sheet_No._6_-_Beaufort_Scale.pdf

Feb/Mar

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East Cape’s Founding Families By JoAnn Hyslop fter Hernan Cortez conquered Mexico in 1521, the King of Spain assigned representatives of the “Society of Jesus”, now known as the Jesuit Order of the Catholic Church, to travel to “New Spain” and build missions, bringing in members of the local population as neophytes. The Jesuits began building missions along the eastern shore of the Gulf of California in Sonora, Sinaloa. The effort proved to be a success so the King ordered the Jesuits to explore the territory west of the Gulf, which was thought at the time to be an island and is now known as the “Baja Peninsula” The Jesuits came over and established the first Mission at Loreto in 1697. They sent for stonemasons, caulkers, carpenters and blacksmiths from the mainland who had worked to build the missions there. Enlisted soldiers were also sent over to protect the new missions here. Most of these soldiers began their service at the Presidio de Loreto. 14

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along the peninsula, establishing permanent homes for their families. You have probably come across this familiar collection of surnames here in East Cape….Gonzáles, Ceseña, Manriquez and Ruiz, to name a few. Anastasio Verduzco established one of East Cape’s most notable Founding Families. Sr. Verduzco, who had enlisted as a soldier, was stationed on the Baja peninsula before 1765. He served as the supervisor of the Mission in Todos Santos and at La Pasión at the Mission de los Dolores north of La Paz. He retired in 1787 and moved to the East Cape of BCS where he founded Rancho Caduaño south of Santiago in the 1790s. Anastasio Verduzco died in Caduaño in 1818. Many of his descendents live in and around the La Ribera area today. JH

Feb/Mar

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Those Nasty Wrinkles! By Connie M. Heinen rinkles can be a result of two different kinds of aging: Intrinsic and Extrinsic. Intrinsic aging is due to genetics. Blame it on your parents! Signs to make note of are skin becoming thinner and drier, collagen becoming less flexible and holding less water, and the number of elastin fibers decreasing. These events can lead to wrinkle development, extrinsic aging or photo-aging or environmental aging. This is caused by years of skin exposure to sunlight. Typically, the skin will look thick and leathery, and you will notice irregular skin pigmentation. The sun is the skin`s number 1 enemy. Although the cells in the dermis, or middle layer of the skin increase in size with age, their functional activity production of the collagen and elastin decreases by one percent per year after the age of 20. The elastin fibers also decrease and fragment with age. Aging is inevitable. Fortunately, its effects on the skin can be minimized and, in some cases prevented.

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As the body ages, new cells are produced more slowly. Therefore, the goal of a good skin care routine is cell regeneration. By speeding the rate of skin cell renewal and removal, the skin appears more youthful, fresh and healthy. Exfoliating treatments such as enzymes, alpha hydroxy acids, ultrasonic micro-exfoliation will help to generate new cell growth. Alternate treatments that will help to encourage collagen production and strengthen elastin fibers include LED Photo Rejuvenation treatment which uses infrared wavelengths to stimulate collagen production, reduce fine lines, and lighten pigmentation. A cutting edge treatment relatively new to the skin industry is Collagen Induction Therapy (CIT) also called skin needling, dry needling, or micro-needling. The latest alternative to laser resurfacing. Far more cost effective and delivers very similar results. This non-invasive procedure preserves the integrity of the skin as it stimulates the body's natural wound healing reaction to produce collagen and elastin, making the skin feel tighter and smoother. No "down time" is required since the healing time is rapid. Results: thicker, tighter, smoother skin, increased blood flow to areas of poor healing. Minimum appearance of scars (acne) fine lines, wrinkles. Increased penetration of serums and moisturizers. CIT can stimulate collagen and elastin for up to a year after treatments.

~ Connie M. Heinen is the owner of Solutions Clinica de Belleza. She can be reached at: 141-0422 or email: permsolutions@aol.com.

A Mexican Riddle My mother went over to your mother’s house To borrow a wim babble, wam babble, A hind body, fore body, Whirl-a kin nibble. To what item does this riddle refer? See the answer on page 28

Feb/Mar

Resting Place

it he would love it.

By Pablo Ponce

Oddly enough, and I’m seriously trying to tie this all together, this subject came up over dinner with my parents the other night. My dad came up with a suggestion in addition to my now twenty-something-year-old sand idea. He said that there had to be a way, and a place, to do the commemorative brick thing down in Baja. His subtle hint regarding a location was around the fountain at the entrance to Los Barriles. And not completely copying the USMC brick, but something along those lines.

friend sent me a message today, informing me that her boss from a previous job had just passed away. This man was very well known and respected in the fishing industry and I’m glad I had the chance to meet and fish with him on one of his charter trips. His love for the sport allowed him, through books, videos and on hand instruction, to leave a legacy that will be around for generations. Wouldn’t it be great if we could all somehow leave our own little mark so people could remember us? I remember back when I was 19 and I said to my parents, “If something happens to me, here’s what I want you to do. First have me cremated, then take the ashes down to the East Cape. Next you need to wait for low tide so you can write in the sand, Pablo was here. As soon as you do that, sprinkle the ashes on top then wait for the tide to rise. When the water rises it will smooth out the sand and take my ashes with it. Can you do that?” My mom said no. She said she would need closure and that would involve more than dumping me into the sea.

My dad’s idea sounded intriguing but he went further, saying each “brick” could be purchased and the income could go into a special fund for scholarships or children’s programs. This would who has spent several years living and loving Baja. Now this is just an idea that I’m throwing out there on behalf of my dad. If someone wants to pick up the ball and run with it, by all means go for it. If it ends up coming to fruition, I want my brick to say, Pablo was here.

Now I know that some of you might be wondering why at age 19 I’d be thinking about things like this, but truth be told I was kinda crazy back then. I took a lot of risks and somehow I made it this far with only a few minor bumps and bruises. Still though, there is always that chance that anyone’s life can end in an untimely fashion. So what would I do now that I’m 44? Would I want that same name-in-the-sand send off? That would be pretty awesome, but what about leaving my mark? My grandpa was in the Marine Corps, and when he passed I was in Los Barriles. I flew home and attended the funeral where he was buried next to my grandma. It was a nice ceremony and I’m sure he is happy in his final resting place. Wanting to do something extra special, a cousin from the east coast had a brick engraved with our grandpa’s name and rank on it. The brick was then placed at/in a USMCmuseum in Washington D.C. Now that was a great tribute, and I’m sure if he could see Feb/Mar

Mexican Proverbs From “Mexican-American Folklore” by John O. West

No hay rosas sin espinas. (There are no roses without thorns). Del dicho al hecho hay mucho trecho. (From the word to the deed is a long way). 15

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Update: Baja Shakespeare 2014 By Larry Epstein s reported in our last edition, the brave and talented cast and crew of Baja Shakespeare is presenting a world premier this year, its 14th year of productions. Set in the American West, A Puppets’ Ire or How I Learned To Love Barbed Wire is a modern comedic send-up of classic themes of good and evil written by one of our actors. This ain’t no Shakespeare! Evil in this case is an unscrupulous real estate scam artist and his shyster lawyer from the Chicago firm of “Breakem, Destroyer and Bannisher” who try to cheat our heroine, the feisty widow Sally Starr, out of her ranch. Sally’s three magic puppets, a Buddhist monk cowboy and the old town sheriff try to trip up the villain with hilarious results. Add to the mix one jealous husband, an ambitious barmaid, a live band and a town of dancing fools, and the result is a good time for all. A live bluegrass band will entertain our audience and accompany our dancers and singer. The surprise ending will … well, if I tell you, it wouldn’t be a surprise. This year we are presenting the show on two consecutive weekends: Friday, Saturday and Sunday, March 21, 22 and 23, and Thursday, Friday and Saturday, March 27, 28 and 29. Doors open at 6:00 PM for general admission. The curtain rises at 7:00 PM each night. Tickets are available at Homes & Land of Baja and Galleria Los Angeles in Los Barriles and at Hotel Buenavista Beach Resort in Spa Buena Vista. You also can arrange to pick up tickets at the show venue (“will call”) by contacting Anne Trefethen at nanatembden@ymail.com or 624-1410593. Tickets are 250 pesos or $20 (USD). UPDATE --- WE HAVE CHANGED OUR LOCATION: This year’s show will be presented in the conference center at Hotel Buenavista Beach Resort in Spa BV (MP 104). No longer outdoors, we can ensure our audience will be comfortable and can see and hear everything. There is even a bar attached to the theater where patrons can comfortably relax with their favorite beverage before the show and between acts. And the hotel is offering meal specials before each show and an incredible $149 overnight special for two with dinner, deluxe room and breakfast during the show’s run. To get the special $149 rate, you must call directly at 624-142-0099. (Show tickets are extra.) So get your out-of-town friends to come see the show and take advantage of

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the special rates, top-flight service and superb meals by the hotel’s talented chef, Elmo Ruffo. Using only the freshest local ingredients, the hotel will serve a garden-side dinner at 5:30 each show night for $25/pp. For folks who dine at the hotel, you can reserve your seats in the theater before you go to dinner. Book early; availability limited. For dinner reservations, contact care of info@hotelbuenavista.com For more information contact producer/playwright Larry Epstein at lepc.mx@gmail.com or 624-1323028 (Mx cell). See you there!

A Foreign Correspondent in LA

The Earth Under Our Feet By Russ Hyslop e reported previously about TAMU, a huge volcanic province located in the Northwest Pacific about 1,000 miles east of Japan . It is now being reported the nuclear wastes from the FUKUSHIMA disaster have reached this vicinity near TAMU. The Japanese are saying that they and possibly the rest of the world may be sitting on a time bomb if the wastes and volcanic materials from the TAMU formation commingle. Stay tuned for more info on this situation.

By JoAnn Hyslop

Now, back to Baja! The geological formation of the Baja California peninsula is relatively young.

When I moved back to Los Angeles after a delightful 20 years living in Los Barriles and spending my days writing and doing research about the history of Mexico for East Capers , I promised that I would send stories about what was going on in the “Big City” to the north. It was my intention to focus on the unusual and the serendipity of life in the largest city in the nation. Believe me, there has been lots to write about.

The oldest chapter that can be reliably read dates back to the middle of the Age of the Dinosaur’s, the Mesozoic Era. At that time, about 150 million years ago, Baja California did not appear at all as it does today; in fact, all of western North America was very different. A chain of volcanic islands bearing a resemblance to the Japan of today extended from the site of the modern northern Sierra Nevada mountains of California Alta (upper) south to almost to

Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. This eastern Pacific archipelago had a deep sea ocean trench on the Pacific side to the west and a shallow sea on the eastern, continental side. This general configuration continued in Baja California for some 50 million years, with sediments accumulating in the deep trench to the west while volcanic rocks were building up great thickness in the island archipelago. East of the volcanic chain, limestone and shale accumulated in a shallow sea. More on the formation of Baja in the next issue. Stay tuned!

When I arrived I subscribed to the LA Times and spent my days scouring the pages for information that might appeal to the funny bone of East Capers local readers. One of the first articles I came across was about the “Hollywood Forever Cemetery” where well-known old time movie stars were buried. As an added attraction, monthly movies were shown on Mausoleum walls. …”bring a picnic and enjoy!” was the motto. Then when it was announced that the 405 freeway would be closed down for repairs panic ensued! “Carmageddon” was declared and drivers scrambled to find surface streets that would get them to work on time. Most recently, the Times January 13 th edition featured a one-page ad sponsored by TARGET (better known as “Targe”). The CEO was apologizing for the news that “criminals had forced their way into our systems and had gained access to credit and debit card information.” His statement was titled…“Dear Target Guests”! In other words, it appears that “Targe” doesn’t have customers...only Guests! Not for long, I would imagine. JH Feb/Mar

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Pemex and Plastic By Gary Graham hile waiting out the third storm of the season, a question popped up regarding the use of credit cards while driving in Baja and mainland Mexico. "With the recent increases in fuel costs in Baja, instead of withdrawing pesos at one of the Cambio de Casas, is using a credit card at Pemex stations an option? Has anyone been doing this and do you feel it is safe and secure? Also, which Pemex stations on the way to LA Bay accept credit cards? I'm assuming the bank exchange rates would apply?” Hmm … quite honestly, as I read the question, it occurred to me that I had never even given the idea of using plastic consideration; I’d never inquired at a Pemex station whether credit cards were accepted. Exchanging dollars for pesos had simply been part of my routine since I began driving Mex 1 back when the road first opened. The responses that were posted to the question along with some helpful tips surprised me and are worth sharing: “Both credit and debit cards are accepted at Pemex Stations in Ensenada, Tecate, San Quintin and El Rosario. It is important to call the bank or credit card company at least 48 hours before departing from home so the bank can approve activity outside of

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the U.S. as a safeguard. Some banks actually ask for the locations the card will be used. Neglecting this step may cause the card to be rejected at the gas station." "I have used a credit card at Pemex – not an ATM. It's important to notify the bank of pending transactions, where, and amounts in general, when traveling in a foreign country. I also have data roaming on my cell thru AT&T. Whenever a CC transaction occurs, I get an email, usually before I leave the station. It's a good idea to dedicate one card for use in Baja; one with a low line of credit and alert capabilities." "Pemex is secure … I've never had any issues. The Pemex at LA Bay does not take credit cards. The one in El Rosario is the last one that does. The exchange rates apply at all the Pemex Stations. Also, FYI: Pesos can be purchased at the Costco in San Ysidro or Ensenada at bank rates." While there is some question about the Pemex in Guerrero Negro, one report is that the station just before the monument north of town may have the same hand-held system as the El Rosario station. Farther south, the Pemexes in Santa Rosalia, Loreto and La Paz reportedly accept credit cards and the newest Pemex station in Los Barriles is also accepting credit cards. Moving across to mainland Mexico, Murray Ruehlen commented that he had been dubious about using a credit card at Pemex. He said, "Tried it last year for the first time at the new Pemex in Guayabitos, Mexico and it worked great. Attendant brought a mobile reader right to the truck – the card never left my possession. So, on the way home in March, I used it every time – absolutely no problems – it always was a mobile reader at the truck." Stan Binns also volunteered that usually the mobile reader is brought out to his truck when he fueled except at the big Pemex in Sonoyta where he had to take the card into the office with a slipfrom the at-

tendant with the amount on it. If exchanging dollars for pesos is a nuisance or inconvenience, with pre-planning and precaution, using your credit card for gasoline purchases is an available option. I like the idea of using an isolated card with a low credit limit to prevent overcharges. Remember, if you plan to use a card you must notify your bank or credit card company prior to leaving the country. Then use some discretion; ask if they accept a credit card before you fill, and don’t let the card out of your sight when presenting for payment.

Now, let's get back to fishing. ~

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Continued from page 18 Roberto and his crew were great. Mexicans are real artists with concrete and block. I always looked forward to my “progress” visits and seeing the gang at work. Roberto prided himself in being a bit of an artist so he made a number of good aesthetic suggestions on how to improve the house. We did make quite a few changes on the fly that truly enhanced the finished product.

“God and Mr. Gomez” Revisited! By Hank Darlington n January of 1995 Carol and I and four friends made our first trip to Los Barriles. It was very different then than it is now. On the plane flying down two of our friends said they loved the Baja…and when they retired wanted to live down there. Yours truly had just finished his second margarita and said “that’s the dumbest thing I’ve ever heard. Mexico’s not a place I’d ever want to live”. By the end of our week vacation the Darlingtons had purchased a beach front lot in Costa de Serenaded – a new development about three miles north of town. You had to drive through two arroyos and down a very bumpy, dusty road to get there. But hey, the price was right. So much for putting the idea of living in Mexico down! Carol suggested building a casita in the back corner of the property – and then spending a few months in residence to see if we really liked it. Plans were drawn and we were ready to sign a contract when she announced that if she had to live part of the year in a desert environment that there was no way she was going to hang out in a 900 sq. ft. casita. She wanted a real house. No argument from this guy! I flew an architect/builder friend of ours down the following month. We rented an open air jeep; I bought him a couple of 6 packs of Pacifico and left him alone at the lot. In four or five hours he had sketched out our new casa. Real plans were drawn and I went looking for 18

Mr. Gomez! If you haven’t read the book “God and Mr. Gomez” you must! It tells the story of a “gringo” building a home in Mexico and many of you “original residents” will identify with the experience detailed in the book. Good friends, Jim and Marilyn Cunningham suggested we talk with Roberto Montano – a relatively new builder recently arrived from the mainland. I didn’t know anything about his building skills – but he spoke good English! So after a bit of “negotiating” a deal was struck. This would be Roberto’s first “big” house and would launch him on his way to riches! I was savvy enough to only give Roberto about $2500 at a time. We agreed on what would need to be purchased and what work would be completed. With Airfares a whole lot less than they are today I arranged to fly down from Sacramento every 4-6 weeks and check on the progress. If materials had been bought and work completed I would hand over another stipend for the next month or two. Roberto had hired about 20 “construction workers” (many from the mainland). They all lived at the job site. They had a fulltime cook. My architect/builder friend that had designed the house flew down a couple of times to check measurements (inches to centimeters) and make sure that my “Mr. Gomez” was doing a good job. (Actually, my friend was more interested in the free vacation and the good beer that I offered as payment for his services of designing the casa). Continued on page 19 Feb/Mar

When it was time to do the concrete roof I loaded up a 24 foot rental truck – full of kitchen and bath products and did the 1500 mile trek to Los Barriles. The day after we arrived 30 workers put in a 15 hour day and completed the roof…one 5 gallon bucket of concrete at a time. The cook did a terrific spare rib dinner and I supplied the well-earned beer for the team. I supplied some new tee shirts and some extra dinero for each of the workers too. There were a number of ups and downs throughout the two year process – but space will only allow me to share one of the bigger “Mr. Gomez” moments. I had made my regular monthly visits for about 20 months. Carol and I, along with Roberto, had flown to Guadalajara and purchased furniture, rugs, wall art etc. for the house. The house was in the final stages and we were very pleased…albeit the progress was slow! We started making plans to fly the whole Darlington gang down (15 of us) to celebrate moving into the house.

and anticipation. You guessed it! The place wasn’t even close to finished. No bathrooms, no kitchen, no running water. And…being Easter…no hotel rooms. We passed Marilyn and Jim on the dirt road… and they graciously came to our rescue. They housed 8 of us and the rest squeezed into 2 rooms at Verdugo’s motel! The Cunningham’s hosted a dinner that night with mucho margaritas. I not only got buzzed from Jims “specially made” margaritas…but he also shaved my head that night! For years I had pretended that 15 long hairs combed over 3 or 4 times would cover up all the skin on the top of my head! Everyone agreed that it was the best thing that ever happened! (Just shows that good things can come from bad situations). Roberto eventually did show up. He admitted that he had overextended himself taking on a couple of other jobs. I reluctantly dismissed him, found another builder to finish the job and we moved in around the first of June. I’m sad to say that Roberto “skipped” town shortly after this and hasn’t been heard from or seen since then. I was lucky he didn’t leave with any of my money, and my memories of building in Mexico are almost all good. It was a great experience. I learned so much…and I would love to see Roberto again. I hope things turned out good for my Mr. Gomez!

In January I asked Roberto when the house would be done. “Completely done” I said. He said mid to end of February. Having learned a little about Mexican time frames we scheduled to come down over Easter which was early April. I wanted to leave lots of extra time in case Roberto needed it. In March, Roberto said “Come ahead – she’s all done”. Hurray! Our suitcases were full of bedding, kitchen items and everything else you need to set up housekeeping. We arrived at the airport, rented several cars, drove to the house full of excitement Feb/Mar

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Now, let's get back to fishing. ~

Feb/Mar

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A Foreign Correspondent in LA

By JoAnn Hyslop

Now, back to Baja! The geological formation of the Baja California peninsula is relatively young.

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~ Connie M. Heinen is the owner of Solutions Clinica de Belleza. She can be reached at: 141-0422 or email: permsolutions@aol.com.

Feb/Mar

Resting Place

it he would love it.

By Pablo Ponce

Mexican Proverbs From “Mexican-American Folklore” by John O. West

No hay rosas sin espinas. (There are no roses without thorns). Del dicho al hecho hay mucho trecho. (From the word to the deed is a long way). 15

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Some of us assemble our experiences into neat travelogues and photo journals.

The Beaufort Wind Scale

From the U.K. National Meteorological Library

Wind (Knots)

WMO Classification

Calm

Sea surface smooth and mirror-like

1-3

Light Air

Scaly ripples, no foam crests

4-6

Light Breeze

Small wavelets, crests glassy, no breaking

7-10

Gentle Breeze

Large wavelets, crests begin to break, scattered whitecaps

11-16

Moderate Breeze Small waves 1-4 ft. becoming longer, numerous whitecaps

17-21

Fresh Breeze

Moderate waves 4-8 ft. taking longer form, many whitecaps, some spray

22-27

Strong Breeze

Larger waves 8-13 ft., whitecaps common, more spray

28-33

Near Gale

34-40

Gale

41-47

Strong Gale

48-55

Storm

56-63

Violent Storm

64>

Hurricane

On Water

For more information about the scale, go to: http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/media/pdf/4/4/Fact_Sheet_No._6_-_Beaufort_Scale.pdf

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Another Good Day for Radio Fishing

tion and how I sound when it’s for real.

By Jorge Bergin

“Hornet, Hornet, Christy B 1 here. Just how far out are you? We’re almost 3 off the lighthouse north north east and I don’t see boat one. You in a panga?”

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The Mexican Kitchen: An Adventure in

Continued from page 11

Vibrant Flavors and Rich Tradition

By Holly Burgin

Feb/Mar

Continued on page 26 11

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To see more pictures and videos please visit: http://www.flickr.com/photos/61640635@N07/ sets/72157639030379284/

Most of the children already knew how to ride and raced all around the orphanage grounds. There were also a few who had never been on Feb/Mar

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~ Don Giottonini is the Sacramento California Safari Club president, hunter, fisherman and above all a conservationist. He is a resident of Buena Vista, BCS.

Answer to riddle on page 22:

Spinning Wheel

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Reasons Why Writing is Awesome (Excerpt from the Asociación de Artes Writer’s Workshop)

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###

Serve with crusty bread. Given its resemblance to bouillabaisse, pair with a rosé wine.

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Sulfur in Mexican Diesel: An Update for Owners of 2007.5 - 2014 Pickups By Ted White

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Donna’s Great Grandparents, Samuel and Clara Keeley, owned a deli-style store on SE Main Street in Portland Oregon called Keeley’s 4

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LBKiteboarding Kids

Mexican Proverbs

By Megan O'Leary

From “Mexican-American Folklore” by John O. West

En boca cerrada no entran moscas. (A closed mouth catches no flies). El que adelante no mira, atrás se queda. (He who doesn’t look ahead stays behind).

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Asociación de Artes Calendar of Events for 2014  February 13 - Artist’s Studio Tour  April 13 - Festival de Artes at Palmas de Cor-

tez (Sunday before Easter)  July - Three-week Cursos de Verano  December - Colina del Sol Art Festival

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East Capers Periódico Publisher Asociación de Artes del Mar de Cortez A.C., Los Barriles, BCS, Mexico

Editor Walter S. Zapotoczny Jr.

Copy Editor Pako Ford

Circulation Brian Cummings

Advertising Kathy Obenshain Dennis Linnet

Volunteers Needed!

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Free / Gratis

Feb/Mar 2014

Issue No. 66

Colina del Sol Art Festival

Photo courtesy of Frank Haurwitz

Feb/Mar