THE tomorrow people
XX XY vs
The tomorrow people XXvsXY The changing consumer: How can the high street evolve to stay relevant in an increasingly online world? Charlotte Louise Cooper N0371288 FASH30001 Word Count: 8637 (without quotes)
XXvsXY
XXvsXY
“The UK is undergoing the biggest generational change in consumers since the 1960s� (see Clarke in Ruddick, 2013: online)
XXvsXY
XXvsXY
Declaration Module: Negotiated Project Stage 1 Module Leader: Tim Rundle Ref. no: FASH3001 I confirm that this work has gained ethical approval and that I have faithfully observed the terms of the approval in the conduct of this project. This submission is the result of my own work. All help and advice other than that recieved from tutors has been acknowledged and primary and secondary soursces of information have been properly attributed. Should this statment prove to be untrue I recognise the right and duty of the board of examiners to recommend what action should be taken in line with the University’s regulations on assesment contained in its handbook.
XXvsXY
XXvsXY
TABLE OF
1.
Introduction: 5-8
3. CONTENTS
2.
Introduction: 1-8
5. XXvsXY
4.
The Changing Consumer: 15-32 Generation Y – The Who: 19-22 The Rise of Consumption: 23-26 Online vs Offline: 27-28 The Tipping Point: 29-32
Understand The Consumer: 43-52
Step Into Their Shoes: 47-48 West vs East: 49-52
6.
XXvsXY
Methodology : 9-14
Methodology: 13-14
Step into the future: 33-42 The Future of Brands: 37-38 Urban Outfitters – Where Edge Meets The Street: 39-40 Next – Would You Like A Cake With That Shirt: 41-42
X and Y of Buy: 53-64
X and Y of Buy: 57-58 Gender Retail: 59-64
7. 9.
What Makes Her Tick?: 65-76
The Women: 69-72 What Makes Her Tick?: 73-76
What Makes Him Tock?: 85-94
What Make Him Tock?: 89-90 The Changing Man: 91-94
11.
Conclusion: 105-112
The Big Problem: 109-112
8. 10. 12. XXvsXY
Meet The Tomorrow Women: 77-84
Fitness Guru: 81-82 The Existentialist: 83-84
Meet The Tomorrow Man: 95-104
The Intrepid Explorer: 99-100 The Sophisticate: 101-102 To Summarise: 103-104
13. 14.
References: 137-158
Bibliography: 139-144 References: 145-150 Illustrations: 151-158
Appendix: 159-263 Appendix 1: Next Interview: 161-168 Appendix 2: Urban Outfitters Interview: 169176 Appendix 3: Primark Interview: 177-182 Appendix 4: Future of the High Street Survey: 183-192 Appendix 5: Male Shopping Survey: 193-198 Appendix 6: Female Shopping Survey: 199-204 Appendix 7: Female Hobbies: 205-208 Appendix 8: Consumer Interviews: 209-228 Appendix 9: Internet Observations: 229-232 Appendix 10: Investigation: 233-236 Appendix 11: Pinterest: 237-240 Appendix 12: Tutorial Record Sheets: 241-250 Appendix 13: Ethical Checklist: 251-254
Implementation: 113-136 The Big Idea: 117-118 Think With Your Head – Not Your Heart: 199-122 Celebrate The Past: 123-124 Make A Place Like Home: 125-128 Community and Collaboration: 129-130 Berlin: 131-132 Collaborate: 133-134 To Summarise: 135-136
XXvsXY
1. Fig 1: SONICWATER, 2013
introduction 1.
4. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
INtroduction ‘Nobody told me they’d be days like this, nobody told me they’d be days like this, strange days indeed, strange days indeed’ Founder of the Future Laboratory, Martin Raymond expressed that John Lennon’s song ‘Nobody Told Me’ (Lennon, 1984), was an early sign that the world was going to change at a rapid pace, and that society was on the edge of a ‘dramatic transformation and technological revolution’ (Raymond, 2013c). No one could have predicted the accuracy or depth of change we have seen over the past decade, and it has arguably surpassed what most people could have ever imagined. What was once considered a concept of science fiction is now our living reality, as can been seen in figure 2 and 3, where laboratory Sonic Water visualise sounds and vibrations through water and sand, thus showing the movements through technology that are taking place. As a consequence of what has changed around us, Tesco boss Phillip Clarke recently underpinned the point by declaring ‘the UK is undergoing the biggest generational change in consumers since the 1960’s’ (See Clarke in Ruddick, 2013a: online). This statement also highlights the gap that has been found in relation to understanding how to target the new consumer. Consequently, there is a need to research it further and provide an insight into the changing customer market we face. We live in a highly digital world with an abundance of technological advances. Indeed, now having access to the world at the click of a button. As a result of this, it would appear we have seemed to have lost touch with what was so key to our everyday lifestyle; The British high street.
For generations the high street has been more than simply a row of shops selling different wares. It has become a core to society; it’s a community, a neighbourhood and a place where people congregate, meet, socialize and of course, shop. However, the UK high street is now undergoing the biggest shake up ever in its history, with ‘one in seven shops now being boarded up’ (Lewis, 2012: online). But the question is; why is this happening? This is a multi-faceted answer as there is no one single cause behind it. Grimsey (2014) a retail specialist explained that, according to Company Watch, 46% of high street retailers are now on a dangerous list and could go bust at anytime. Mary Portas is of the opinion that this is due to the 21st century phenomenon known as ‘Clone Town Britain’, whereby every high street store looks the same. Portas goes on to say ‘the information lies stagnating and festering somewhere, and whilst there has been an awful lot of thinking about the high street, most of it has been done in isolation, rarely backed by any kind of creative vision’ (Portas, 2011: online). This now leaves retailers facing the biggest challenge of all – how can the future of the high street move forward and where can the creative vision that Ms Portas refers, be found? In an attempt to explore this, it is first important to explore the underlying reasons behind the changing nature of the high street.
Fig 2: SONICWATER, 2013
Fig 3: SONICWATER, 2013
Firstly, with the online phenomenon came a change in shopping habits and consumers, not only could people now be more careful on where or how they spent, but they also had access to more detail than they ever would in the hustle of the typical high-street environment. Secondly, the recession is unquestionably playing a big part in the decline of the high street. However, history will tell us, the recession simply exposed frailties that were built-up over many years before 2008 and hidden beneath the years of big profits and bonuses. The reasons stated above are thought to be behind the remarkable surge in online sales, which has seen a ‘152% increase over the past 5 years’ (Mintel, 2011: online). Quite critically this demonstrates that consumers are still spending, but through different avenues of the high street.
5.
6. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
‘The New Consumers are in a position to become better informed about companies, products and services than at any time in commercial history.’ (Lewis and Bridger, 2001: pxiii)
These behavioural changes of the consumer cannot be under-estimated. Indeed, the recession has changed the ways consumers think, buy and behave. Consumers are constantly targeted with direct sales, advertisements, emails and pushy shop assistants on a daily basis, with more subliminal coercing on a completely unmeasured basis, as Martin Lindstrom puts it ‘snow-blindness’ (Lindstrom, 2009: p46). However, whilst the high street retailers have taken the full force of the economic downturn and suffered accordingly, those who have emerged from it now have a greater understanding of the needs of the consumer and can adjust and tailor their offerings with this newfound knowledge.
Fig 4: High Street Nostalgia, 1970
British fashion journalist, Colin McDowell recently said ‘the high street was becoming stereotypical in the way we purchase’ (McDowell, 2013) – a point many believe to be valid as it is apparent no shops now show any creativity and simply just seem to follow the ‘Pied-Piper’ trend of others. There appears to be no uniqueness and the high street seems to be one sector that appears to be struggling with the concept of not keeping up within this digital world. In support of this, Richard Danks (2013), head of strategy at Portas Agency noted that the problem remains with retailers lacking imagination, great retail, is about people.
To revive the high street and all the positives associated with the high street, companies need to understand better the changing customer needs, alluded to above. For this reason, this report aims to investigate the requirements of the ‘new consumer’ that is present today on the high street. To provide more specificity, this study also explores the way in which different genders now shop with the predominant focus on Generation Y (aged 18-33), as they are more ‘impulsive, more entrepreneurial and are experience seekers looking for individuality’ (Raymond, 2013d). Although these are challenging consumers to understand, they are ultimately the future of the high street.
8.
7. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
2. Fig 5: Razor Blades, 2012
Methodology 9.
12. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
Industry interviews and consumer research
Methodology
MEGAN PRICE
GENERAL PUBLIC
Who? Merchandiser for Next
Who? A random sample of the general public aged 18-30
How? Face-to-face interview TASHA TULLY Who? Department Manager Urban Outfitters
for
How? Face-to-face interview When? 6th December 2013 at 9:00am. Fig 6: Barber Brush, 2012
‘Consumer behaviour is a by-product of the unconscious mind, whereas research is inherently a conscious process’ (Graves, 2010: p10) In order to obtain accurate information, the research was focused on ‘the tomorrow people’, through various ways of collating data. The principal aim for primary research was to capture the data creatively, by delving into the unconscious mind of the consumer. This was achievable by consumer observation and innovative investigations, as well as conducting various consumer interviews and surveys. Furthermore, with a view to understand ‘the tomorrow people’ from an industry prospective, interviews were orchestrated with three main and different high street retailers; Urban Outfitters, Primark and Next. All primary research was carried out on Generation Y as they are the modern day buyers and are the continuation for the high street success. Various talks furthered the understanding on the New Consumer, the difference between genders today and of what was happening in the cultural calendar - such talks being LS:N Global - “XX vs XY” briefing, gaining further insight into the gender shifts we are currently seeing. The “Online vs Offline” talk offered an understanding into how retail and media landscapes are being defined today, with leading experts talking, such as Portas Agency. Other talks included Bill Grimsey’s “Preparing Town Centres and High Streets for the 21st Century” on how the high street should develop, as well as innovative luxury brand Burberry talk, speaking on who the future consumer will be. Secondary researched included a collection of information gathered from various books, online and newspaper articles, documentaries, and marketing report. The aim being to collect industry professional’s opinions, on the ones that matter, helping lead to a strategic outcome.
Why? Urban Outfitters is currently at the forefront leading experience in store. Speaking to Tasha explained why this was so important and what keeps them unique compared to other high street stores. Giving insight into what their current consumer is like and how they attract them. Successful? Speaking to Tasha was extremely helpful in order to identify future consumers and why their store concept is so successful, also giving insight into the future of Urban Outfitters, as well as describing her thoughts on the online vs offline debate. (See Appendix 2)
When? 17th November 11:30am.
GERRI CASSIDY 2013
at
Why? As a person who is part of a successful high street chain, Megan has insight into current knowledge of the industry on why they were currently successful in the current economic climate. Giving detailed answers into what the future holds for Next as well as their current customer and how to track the ‘tomorrow people’.
Who? Assistant buyer for jewellery at Primark How? Thirteen questions via email When? 19th January 2014 at 16:00am.
How? Survey sent via Survey Monkey to gain quick and fascinating statistics from the general public, also more in-depth one-on-one interviews with consumers to understand the consumer more. Consumer observations took place too, gaining more insight on how consumers interact online. Lastly, an investigation to identify research findings, in which participants had to answer a question regarding what recent TV adverts they could remember.
Why? Primark being one of the biggest high street retailers in recent years, Gerri explained the reason for this, as well as When? Primark reasons for success 3rd November 2013 to 24th without having an online Successful? January 2014. Interviewing Megan gave platform. incredible insight into why Why? their brand was currently so Successful? The purpose being to pinpoint successful and ways in which Though Gerri’s responses to the key problems that the other brands could go forward. the questions identified their high street offers and what the Megan explained a key point reason for their success, it was ‘tomorrow consumer’ wants. about where the high street clear they target a different The investigation offered an will go in the future and what consumer to other high innovative and fun way for high street stores should do in street retailers – such as the consumers to recall data that recession not affecting their order to have a future. they remembered. sales whereas most retailers have suffered accordingly. (See Appendix 1) Successful? Therefore, although important All primary research provided to understand their success, an honest and greater Primark couldn’t be used understanding on what the as a way of discovering the tomorrow people want, tomorrow people. providing a different view on research findings and helping (See Appendix 3) confirm and steer toward the research outcomes on what the future consumer wants. (See Appendix 4-10)
13.
14 XXvsXY
XXvsXY
3. 15.
18. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
Fig 8: Strangers Passing, 1970
The Changing Consumer
Generation Y – the who?
It is important for the high street to recognise which demographic is at the forefront of the ‘tomorrow people’ in order to understand the changes that need to happen. In today’s world there are an abundance of terms used to differentiate one generation from another, such as the post World War Two Baby Boomers - born between the years 1946 and 1964. Unlike any other cohort, the generation currently at the forefront is the digital natives, a term coined by Mark Prensky (2001), who explained that it is a person who was born fresh from a decade of digital technologies, who now has a better understanding of concepts more so than any other generation. These digital natives are otherwise known as Generation Y or the New Millennials - the generation born between the mid 1980’s to the early 2000’s, placing them at an age today of 18-33. These are the people who are ‘up and coming’ and as Raymond (2013d) discovered - this demographic is the largest generation alive globally. ‘The future belongs to Generation Y’ (Mukherjee, 2013: online). Brands in particular want to target this age the most. As can be seen in figure 9, the perceptual map shows a strong focus on the age bracket of 18-30 of high street stores target consumer.
Higher Price Point
age 18+ Whilst change is something Millennials are seeking, this era of Generation Y are challenging their role to society with ‘84 per cent believe their generation has a duty to change the world, and 82 per cent are convinced they have the power to do so’ (Troni, 2011: p15). Choosing this diverse age group is important for brands to target, as Saunter (2013a) points out that Millennials are expected to accelerate over the next decade. If brands were able to understand this generation of consumers, the hope would be that a trickle down effect would occur for previous generations. Fig 9: Perceptual Map, 2014
lower Price Point
19.
20. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
84 per cent believe their
generation has a duty to change the world, and 82 per cent are convinced they have the power to do so. (Troni, 2011: p15).
Fig 10: Kooples Advert Venus and Jonas, 2011
21.
22. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
The Rise of consumption
“We are cash rich and time poor” (Lewis and Bridger, 2001:pi)
‘New Consumers have been shaped by the seismic economic and social changes that began transforming industrialised societies from the late 1960’s onwards.’ (Lewis and Bridger, 2001: pi)
It is interesting to note that ‘what distinguishes New Consumers from those who came before us is not chronological age but attitudes towards consumption’ (Lewis and Bridger, 2001: pi). Thus it is important for retailers to understand the historical aspect of the social shifts that changed the consumer, which all started in the 1960’s and 1970’s, where Grimsey (2014) explained that consumer change became apparent within the fresh food revolution, where consumers could challenge brands with de-seasonalising our food choice. Secondly, then came the barcode where big data took control in finding out what the consumer wanted; thirdly it was the World Wide Web, which changed all industries by way of facilitating online shopping and fourthly, the mobile device. These changes we started to see in consumerism in the early 60’s to 70’s were facilitated by retailers gaining control over the manufacturers at the time, which led us, as consumers, to have the power, which was once not possible. This has led to customers becoming demanding as shown in figure 11, with retailers not knowing how to keep up.
The echoing words of Prime Minister Harold Macmillan “you’ve never had it so good” (Macmillan, 1960) (figure 13), was the era in which consumers realised the power they had. In the era following immediate post-war, where scarcity of disposable income was rife, came a rush of affluent wealth, that was once considered to them as prerogative wealth. Consumers were now able to afford goods – something that was not possible in the pre-war and post-war period. Tesco Boss Phillip Clarke explained that just like in the 60’s, where the “you’ve never had it so good” attitude came from, we are reliving this in modern times, with us now undergoing the biggest generation change since the 60’s. Thus, the importance now is for the retail sector to understand the need to evolve in order to adapt to the new consumer.
Fig 11: Student Protests, 2011
23.
24. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
Fig 12: London Transport Woolwich, 1970
‘Within a few short decades, society rearranges itself ’ (Drucker, 1994: p2)
Fig 13: Harold MacMillan, [n.d.]
The echoing words of Prime Minister Harold Macmillan “you’ve never had it so good” (Macmillan, 1960) (figure 13), was the era in which consumers realised the power they had. In the era following immediate post-war, where scarcity of disposable income was rife, came a rush of affluent wealth, that was once considered to them as prerogative wealth. Consumers were now able to afford goods – something that was not possible in the pre-war and post-war period. Tesco Boss Phillip Clarke explained that just like in the 60’s, where the ‘you’ve never had it so good’ attitude came from, we are reliving this in modern times, with us now undergoing the biggest generation change since the 60’s. Thus, the importance now is for the retail sector to understand the need to evolve in order to adapt to the new consumer.
“You’vE neveR had it so good”
25.
26. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
only 34% of women shop online 63% of men prefer shopping online
online vs offline
As first witnessed and alluded to by Grimsey, one of the first shifts witnessed in the changing demographics of consumers was the ‘www.’ in 1991, where the transition from ‘offline’ consumer, went to ‘online’, which resulted in the revolution of prosumers. These are the consumers that Weiss (2013) identified as being smart and enthusiastic shoppers, who adopt new technologies proactively. They enjoy having digital tools available to them in order to gain ‘an advantage’ with this being the reason why they shop more online than on the high street. Whilst the power of online remains a concern to retailers, the challenge for them is to embrace the concept of online marketing. For many consumers, the Internet has become an integral part of their shopping experience, with 63% of 72 males saying they prefer shopping online to offline (see app 5) shown in figure 14. Today, shoppers are able to have the freedom, choice and convenience right at the click of a button, with the Internet now accounting for ‘43% of all orders, with that expected to rise to 75% by 2015’ (Jobling, 2013a: online). This demonstrates the significance online has to retail and with the addition and convenience of tablets and smart phones, as Ruddick (2013b) explains sparked a second digital revolution in retail.
It can be fairly argued that the main problem retailers face is having an insufficient online platform. This is a necessity for the 21st century and ultimately critical for the prosumers. Next, Price (2013: see app 1) explained that online websites should have a greater presence to reflect this habitual change. However, Primark, Cassidy (2013: see app 3) explained that Primark not having an Internet platform means more focus goes on the customer experience in store. What retailers are failing to understand are the different types of prosumers, with this being said is there now more of a need to focus on experience in-store rather than needing online? What is it that people want to go online for, is it to browse? is it buy? The primary research showed how people interact online by consumer observations (2013: see app 9). This allowed the ability to track the habitual activity and the method of browsing. Furthermore, it identified a trend of different shoppers personality types, which are as follows:-
Fig 14: Inforgraphics, 2014
The Disjointed Shopper: These shoppers demonstrated an inability to stick to one website within a 5 minute period. They would continually flit from one website to another and would only dwell when something interesting and specific caught their attention, such as a promotional collection video. The Impatient Shopper: These individuals showed intolerance to pop ups and sign up requests – something which was extremely prevalent on the Urban Outfitters’ website, as an example. This very quickly became the catalyst to switch websites. Mintel recently reported that ‘23% of consumers say they find video adverts that target them that reflects their internet activity off-putting’ with a further ‘59% of consumers agree that online advertising that is based on their browsing history makes them feel uncomfortable’ (Mintel, 2014b: online). This highlights that retailers need to be fully aware of this when consumers are shopping online, so as not to make them feel uncomfortable. Perhaps the cookies used to track consumers shouldn’t be so blatant, but instead sub-conscious. The Wishful Shopper: There is evidence of a group of online shoppers who wanted to make a wish list or build a ‘basket’. They are drawn to the dream element of purchasing items without actually completing the shipment, with money or credit being the likely reason for abandoning the transaction. This is an area that retailers could focus on more, promoting them with incentives relating to their wish list. To Summarise: This study demonstrated a lack of loyalty to brands, a dislike of pop-ups and the inability to convert Internet traffic and interest in products into firm orders. What retailers need to focus on is to simplify the process, as WGSN explained ‘making it easy for consumers is vital for those looking to boost their success rates online’ (Jobling, 2013b: online) - this is a fundamental prerequisite in winning customers over in the future.
27.
28. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
the tipping point ‘Those days of reckless consumption are over’ (Lindstrom, 2009: p208)
Before the recession, there was a running theme that consumers had become obsessed with a designer lifestyle. As Sally Denton (2013), a trend forecaster explained, the recession put us in a world of austerity, before consumers were passive and not bothered about bad service. Retailers had become accustomed to this archetypal consumer and had found a formula that worked for them, therefore fostering a climate of complacency and lack of imagination for looking into the future. Consequently, consumers would become even more creative with what was quickly developing - technology.
What became apparent is that the recession demonstrated the ineptitude of retailers on how to target the consumer, finding overdrive with persistent bombardments of advertisements and sales. Martin Lindstrom, a branding expert explained that ‘these days, we’re yanked, tugged, pelted, pushed, prodded, reminded, cajoled, whispered at, overloaded, and overwhelmed by a constant stream of in-your-face product placement. The result? Snow-blindness’ (Lindstrom, 2009: p46) or, ‘brand fatigue’ (Raymond, 2003a: p8). This fundamentally shows that brands are out-oftouch with their consumer. The recession has changed the way we think and buy and instead of high street stores being afraid of it, they should in fact embrace it. Lindstrom (2009) later explained that the recession shouldn’t be seen as a bad thing, but instead a silver lining for retailers to start afresh in understanding the new consumer. With the aforementioned stance of retailers showering the market with pushy in-your-face advertisements, it has been noted that ‘people in mature markets have grown sick of excess, tired of the constant push to accumulate more’ (Havas, 2010a: p4). Lindstrom (2009) points out that studies have shown the more choice we have, the less money we spend. Thus, this pushy culture is contrary to the consumer’s needs who are proving to be more selective with their purchases – this point is confirmed by Lewis and Bridger (2001) who explains that consumers have largely exhausted the things they need to purchase and are focusing instead on what they want to buy.
Fig 15: Material World, 2010
With the transition of consumerism and onset of the online phenomenon came a new threat: the economic downturn. The recession in 2008 became the forefront of peoples’ buying decisions and has ultimately changed the way in which people shop and consume (fig 15). Lewis and Bridger (2001) explained that the cld consumers (those who came before us) were once forces of mass production, marketing and consumption, however, what has since emerged from the recession is the new consumer, which ‘gave people the opportunity to stop and think, to consider and reassess their lifestyle choices’ (Havas, 2010a: pg7). This is what ultimately changed the consumer, with consumers now having to reconsider their buying habits, which has ultimately led to retailers failing to understand what to do next.
‘There are two ways to get enough. One is to continue to accumulate more and more. The other is to desire less.’ (see Chesterton in Havas, 2010a)
29.
30. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
Fig 16: Inside & Other Stories’ Regent Street Store, 2013
This has now led to consumerism being defined differently with ‘experience seekers looking for individuality’ (Raymond, 2013d). Consumers are wanting more meaningful and sentimental products Raymond (2013d) at LS:N Global spoke of the recurring trend of women who are now preferring boutiques and markets instead of malls, as shown in figure 16 of & Other Stories. Havas (2010a) explains that now people are looking to live life in a way that offers longer-lasting satisfactions and pleasures that cannot be found at the mall. Today, consumers are demanding greater privacy and time for greater deliberation; Denton (2013) explained that instead of buying too much and over consuming, we are now living and seeing what possibilities the future holds for us.
31.
32. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
4.
Fig 17: All Saints Flag Ship Store London, 2011
Step into the future
36. 33.
XXvsXY XXvsXY
The Future of Brands
It is important to note, however, that whilst the high street is currently under scrutiny over its future, there are brands that are doing exceptionally well and expanding their stores and market shares across the UK. Surely this asks the question, if they can do it, why can’t others? On this latter theme, the following brands are arguably prime examples of understanding consumers at different ends of generation Y, the retail environment and more importantly, as Phillip Clarke described above ‘to be ready for what consumers want’.
Fig 19: Interactive Window Shopping, 2012
What retailers must understand is there is still a need for high street stores, with 66% of 77 female consumers saying they prefer to shop on the high street (see app 6), even with online being prevalent in the consumers’ lives. Whilst the internet changed the retailing world, online is now simply not enough for them anymore, as Jobling (2013a) reported that consumers are now wanting to bridge the gap between online and the physical retail space, with brands needing to reassess the power of their store. As can be seen in figure 18 and 19, Addidas now offers a mélange of online and offline services, therefore making it a 24 hour store offering the connected customer or prosumers, a digital experience, is this a way of bridging the gap for the high street, as Jobling previously mentioned?. This represents the retailers’ biggest challenge, as Phillip Clarke Tesco boss explained that ‘adapting a business to profound change is a difficult job made easier if we stay close to the change’, explaining that ‘as a business, we need to know them before they know us, so we can build the right business for them when they are ready’ (See Clarke in Ruddick, 2013a: online). This signifies basic market principles, but clearly this concept seems to be beyond some retailers.
Fig 18: Interactive Window Shopping, 2012
As a consequence of the tipping point and the challenges brought on by the recession, it became crucial for retailers to understand the needs of their consumers; without this, they would simply not survive. Deloitte (n.d.) explains shoppers are now becoming savvier and therefore taking control of their shopping experience. The challenge for the stores is to evolve into a complex relationship between retailer and consumer, offering them new inspirational and emotional engagement, whilst experiencing the breadth and depth of a range.
37.
38. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
Urban outfitters - where edge meets the street ‘The emphasis is on creativity. Our goal is to offer a product assortment and an environment so compelling and distinctive that the customer feels an empathetic connection to the brand and is persuaded to buy’. (URBN, 2014: online)
The ability to understand the consumer can be evidenced at the launch of the Urban Outfitters store in Nottingham, which emphasised the involvement of the consumer journey from start to finish. Before the launch, their social media sites released unseen photos of the interior of the store, as well as their wall art (figure 20), which simply served to keep the consumer informed and to heighten the interest around the launch. This reinforces Jobling’s comment on the need to bridge the gap between online and retail, by way of using their online platforms to discuss their physical space in store. The launch night itself included local DJ’s, free beer, photo booths and a temporary tattoo parlour (figure 21) with Tully (2013) explaining that the reason behind the extravagance of the night was so that everyone could connect with the community and everyone could get really involved.
Moreover, this “clone town Britain” that has been previously mentioned, does not apply to Urban Outfitters. What Urban Outfitters have created is a store unlike any other, as Tully explains ‘because of our brand we get that different experience of coming into store, it’s obviously a lifestyle, it’s quite a cool concept of the store and because of that, people are more interested in coming in and seeing what we are doing. We are not like anything on the high street’ (Tully, 2013: see app 2). The in-store experience found in Urban Outfitters was the main reason why people wanted to use the high street over online. It would seem this concept of an ‘experience’ overrides the convenience of online shopping. It can be thus argued that shopping becomes an experience, rather than a mere function.
Fig 20: Work in Progress, 2013
Whilst competitive retailers are struggling on the high street, Urban Outfitters are going from strength to strength. Tully (2013: see app 2), Urban Outfitters Department Manager in Nottingham, underpinned this point by declaring plans of opening up another three stores a year. The reason for Urban Outfitters to expand is stated in their ethos “the ability to understand our customers and connect with them on an emotional level is the reason for our success” (URBN, 2014: online). Their philosophy shows that their importance lies with understanding the consumer, thus showing that they have successfully grasped what Phillip Clarke spoke of above: the need to understand the consumer, before the consumer knows them.
Fig 21: Urban Outfitters Launch, 2013
39.
40. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
next - would you like a cake with that shirt?
Next, a retailer who targets the higher age range of Generation Y has also understood how their new consumer works, with Next currently being one of the first high street stores to introduce the ‘coffee revolution’ that has evolved over recent years. With the coffee shop boom currently being the biggest player on the high street, now having ‘15,000 coffee outlets and is about to get thousands more’ (Neate, 2012: online), Next have spotted the opportunity of pairing the retail experience with the ‘coffee revolution’ together, in order to entice customers to use the store more often.
Fig 23: Next Home Garden, 2013
Next merchandiser Price, (2013: see app 1) explained that the reason Next is doing so well, unlike other high street stores, is because they are one step ahead. A policy of refitting their stores to make them more appealing is core, with architects helping them with the lighting and utilisation of space within a given area. This is another example of being focused more on the shopping experience. Price (2013) also explains plans afoot of introducing more garden centres to future stores with recent success of Next West Sussex store as shown in figure 22 and 23 – all of these measures are clear evidence of attracting the consumer for longer and to make retail therapy an experience.
Fig 22: Next Home Garden, 2013
41.
42. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
5.
46. XXvsXY XXvsXY
Fig 24: The Shanghai Collection Autumn /Winter, 2013
understanding the consumer 43.
step into their shoes
Generation Y are the people that are going to shape the future of retail and brands cannot ignore this fact. As Saunter (2013a) points out they ‘have an annual global purchasing power of $200 billion and are poised to overtake Boomers in population and spending by 2015’ (Saunter, 2013a: online); this proves the power that Generation Y hold over the current dynamic market. With the divide of consumers and prosumers, it is important to understand how this generation has developed in an ultra-connected world. Generation Y are now the ‘most highly educated and social generation in history’. Sorenson explained ‘they are clever and know want they want. As a brand, you need to be authentic and transparent when communicating with this younger generation’ (see Sorenson in Conniff, 2013: online). With access to material through the Internet, the new consumer is more aware socially and economically now than ever, ‘largely as a result of the growth of the internet, New Consumers are in a position to become better informed about companies, products and services than at any time in commercial history’. (Lewis and Bridger, 2001: xiii). This isn’t something for retailers should ignore but yet retailers should embrace and understand in order to survive.
The importance of understanding consumers can be clearly shown through Richard Greenbury’s mistakes with high street store Marks and Spencer’s in 1999. As Raymond (2003a) explains, the reason being because Greenbury stopped looking at the future and stopped listening to his customers. However, we now live in a world where brands are not in control, but instead, the consumers are. David Sprangler (2001), the director of market research for the Levi brand expresses the importance that New Consumers have in the 21st century, ‘They are going to take over the country.’ (see Sprangler in Lewis and Bridger, 2001: xiv). The importance of understanding the New Consumer can be seen in recent Bionic mannequins ‘EyeSee’ that high street stores are now introducing, with the ability to spy on shoppers to calculate their gender, age and race. This surely supports the fact that high street stores are not recognising their customer and therefore now have to use technology to understand them more clearly. Fig 25: Women Style, 2012
“The retail industry has reached a tipping point. Tough economic times have brought into rapid focus the reality of changing consumers behaviours” (Deloitte, n.d.: pg 2).
47.
48. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
Fig 26: The Shanghai Collection Autumn /Winter, 2013
WEST VS EAST It is important to point out what other countries are doing in terms of discovering their consumer and namely to look at the West vs East divide. Denton (2013) commented that the West believe they have understood that the new consumer’s life is not going to be focused so much on shopping, but more on experiencing and connecting with each other. This is why ‘emerging markets are becoming increasingly attractive to multinational corporations wishing to expand by taking advantage of fast-changing economic dynamics around the world’ (Tata, n.d.: online). Elsewhere, The Middle East is currently at the forefront of defining themselves, such as the ‘Dubai Mall’ featuring an Aquarium. This simply serves to show that The Middle East and Dubai, in particular, are strongly embracing this concept of offering the consumer an experience.
49.
50. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
Fig 27: Russian Pavilion QR Codes, 2012
With these new emerging markets, the UK high street should take comfort in the fact that retail is moving forward. In fact, recent QR codes (figure 27) are now being taken over by image recognition in these emerging markets, therefore we will in the future be able to purchase a similar product by scanning, with Denton (2013) predicting that retailers could earn up to one billion more sales with this new technology. This indicates that if retailers were to understand the importance of key trends shown through these emerging markets, the more it could help the high street. In addition, it is sensible to argue that the UK should look at other countries’ cultures in the hope that it boosts the UK high street: ‘in 2014 it will be time for British consumers to look onwards at other countries’ (Mintel, 2013b: online). Mintel (2013b) explain that Brazil World Cup, as well as new immigration legislations, will lead to Brits becoming more open, curious and savvy when it comes to buying into new, engaging or better value products from abroad. Hence, the British High street needs to learn to not be so western centric and instead embrace these other cultures.
51.
52. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
6.
56. XXvsXY XXvsXY
Fig 28: Juliett Kuczynska Stockholm Street Style, 2014
x and y of buy 53.
x and y of buy
What it means for someone to be a
women or a man Fig 29: Kooples Advert, 2012
is different depending on the historical period in which they live� (Holmes, 2009: p7)
57.
58. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
GENDER retail
Whilst recognising the identity of the new consumer, the issue of gender also needs to be addressed due to the significant shifts in consumer behaviour over time. Lewis and Bridger (2001) stated that what was once a predominately maleorientated world regarding shopping is now equal. However, with the increasing economic power of women, both as wealth producers and consumer decision makers, this suggests that women have overtaken men.
Fig 30: BOY London Advert, 2014
Fig 31: The Kooples Magazine, 2012
It is interesting to note that this historical shift is now apparent in the retail sector in knowing how to target the different sexes. Brands who are currently at the forefront of doing so successfully are BOY London (figure 30) Levis and Kooples as seen in (figure 31) - all of which have successfully achieved this by creating a unisex clothing, which is becoming ever increasingly popular within British street wear.
59.
60. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
Fig 32: Mahani: Fashion Concept Store, Dubai, 2013
Elsewhere, Mahani fashion store in Dubai has adopted a rather different approach to gender, as seen in figure 32. Harsh architecture in-store is used to represent the male sex whereas feminine, flirty clothes decorate such harsh architecture in order to represent the female sex. The parallel pairing of the two extremes works well, so as not to make it a conscious specific experience. With current UK retail stores, Gloria Moss in Bignell (2013), who has been researching gender habits for more than 18 years, stated her work highlights that many shops are designed by men, who don’t give enough thought to women.
61.
62. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
key
- Female - male
Do you find there is too much choice in retail?
81% of male and females thought there wasn’t enough choice
Whilst on the high street, what do you usually do?
Fig 33: Street Style My Showroom, 2013
- 61% Browse - 38 % Browse This equality that Lewis previously spoke of has now changed significantly as Moss explains that 83% of all shopping purchases are made from women, with Farndale (2011) further reporting that the average 30 year old woman in the UK owns 21 handbags and adds a new one every three months. This suggests how this equality is no more - women are the drivers behind shopping purchases and brands need to focus on this, given that women are evidentially more powerful shoppers than men.
63.
64. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
7.
Fig 34: Simona Stockholm Street Style, 2014
What makes her tick ?
68. 65.
XXvsXY XXvsXY
“This is the female century. It has been a long wait, but women are taking control of their destiny� (Seabright (2012), see Raymond, 2013d)
Fig 35: Sui He for Mercedes-Benz Spring/Summer 2014, 2013
69.
70. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
Fig 36: Women Model, 2013
71.
72. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
WHAT MAKES HER TICK? Fig 39: Whipit Campaign, 2013
The equality that was spoken of in Lewis’ book shows the shifts and power that women have overcome (figure 38), what was once ‘a world built by their mothers’ (Havas, 2010: p2) is now a world of freedom to them. Raymond (2013d) explains that women are now filling the world’s universities, starting businesses and taking up positions of power.
Fig 40: Real Beauty Campaign, 2014
Women are now taking on ‘gender specific’ role jobs. In a recent Pantene advert #Whipit – Pantene have successfully achieved the double standard stereotype of women and men equality in the workforce. The controversial advert focuses on the difference in gender and that while a man is seen as a ‘boss’ in the workforce a woman is seen as ‘bossy’, as seen in figure 39. This advert shows the boundaries women are crossing to mark their role in society today and, with it, new confidence is being shown. Once considered a dirty word, now ‘feminism is back on the rise, and it’s all thanks for the internet’ (Rivlin, 2013: online), mixed with having the power of social media, it allows women the opportunity to talk about their personal experiences, Collyn Ahart (2013) explained ‘social media allows women to be feminists without saying, ‘I’m a feminist’ (see Ahart in Raymond, 2013d). For instance, the ‘Everyday Sexism Project’, now has one hundred and twenty thousand followers on Twitter, in which women share their personal stories.
Fig 38: Elle Rebrands Feminism, n.d.
Now that brands are successfully grasping this new woman, the new woman is ‘not wanting things associated with celebrities anymore’ (Raymond, 2013d), instead we are now wanting to ‘identify with people who look more like us and less like Scarlett Johansson’ (Lindstrom, 2009: p187). This idea can be fully supported by witnessing the Dove campaign ‘Real Beauty’, seen in figure 40. Dove fully understood the consumer and focused on promoting self-esteem, which saw a ‘600 per cent surge in sales’ (Pace, 2009: p45). Tom Peters in Pace (2009), a best-selling author, upholds this view by stating that ‘women really are the number one marketing opportunity for brands becoming successful’ (Pace, 2009: p6). This acts as proof that if the retailer targets the woman successfully, the more loyal the consumer will be to the retailer.
73.
74. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
Marks and Spencer’s Leading Women Campaign, as seen in figure 41, features many influential women, such as Dame Helen Mirren, Grace Coddington and Katie Piper, therefore it is promoting this new self-assured and confident woman that Martin Raymond spoke of in his talk. Marks and Spencer have therefore created a campaign to help re-establish their brand in order to appeal to the new woman. However ‘despite the £5 million ad investment, the shop’s experienced a further fall of around 1.5 per cent in sales of clothing and homeware, over the same period that campaigns been running. And running. And running’ (Fairley, 2013: online). Is this not the evidence of ‘snow-blindness’ and ‘brand fatigue’, as mentioned by Lindstrom and Raymond? In order to establish the new consumer identity, a series of consumer interviews took place, along with consumer observation surveys. Additionally, the LS:N Global talk identified who the new consumers were, however, the investigation set out to see if these assumptions were valid.
Fig 41: Britains Leading Ladies, 2013
75.
76. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
8.
XXvsXY XXvsXY
Fig 42: Sweaty Betty Joey S/S campaign, 2014
meet the tomorrow women
80.
77.
Fitness guru Archetype: The Jester Traits: Enjoyment and Freedom Fig 44: The Plank, 2013
‘Consumers are embracing self-analysis, with 9% of health-conscious consumers having used online health trackers to help them stay on track’ (Mintel, 2014b: online) Labelled as the ‘Athena Women’ by The Future Laboratory, it was important to understand if these fitness consumers that were spoken about at the XXvsXY talk were real. Incredibly, research showed that 62% out of 98 people in Generation Y stated fitness is a daily hobby for women (see appendix 7). This is also shown in the feministic women we are now seeing (figure 43), as Varga (2014) reported that through the use of exercise, it has now redefined what femininity means through strength and breaking what used to be gender-allocated sport activities. Research has shown further that ‘we are currently in a 21st-century fitness revolution’ (Sinclair, 2013: p4), this can be visibly shown in the attention to Instagram #nikewomen now having more than twenty five thousand posts, allowing consumers to follow their fitness progress, as well as blogging on healthy meals and tips. One participant stated that ‘I really enjoy having time out at the gym, usually running and also try to fit in swimming once a week, which is really relaxing after a hard day at the office’ (McArthur, 2013: see app 8) further stating that working out was an integral part of their weekly fix which all stemmed from the Olympics which served as an inspiration to her. Now with fitness currently being at the front of women’s minds, and with looking at the cultural calendar of the Brazil World Cup 2014 and the Olympics in 2016, it is natural to expect a cultural frenzy around this time of everything Brazilian. This will be evidenced most especially surrounding health and fitness, as this is where cultures will collide over a 2-year period.
How would you describe your personal style? Casual, versatile and authentic What are you top three fashion brands? H&M, Zara and Topshop In your wardrobe, what are your favourite items? My Topshop heels, Moncler Puffer Jacket & MK bag Which celebrity style would you wish to steal? Beyoncé What magazines and blogs do you like to read? Vogue, Glamour & Harpars Bazar – Also I follow a lot of my favourite retailers and sports blogs on social media so I can a quick update / snap of new trends If your house was burning down, what three items would you take with you? My phone, pictures and jewellery
Fig 43: Sweaty Betty – fit is the new it S/S campaign, 2014
81.
82. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
The Existentialist
At a recent ‘Online vs Offline’ talk, Ant Waller (2013), a fashion PR, spoke of the importance of blogging, by stating that the blogging revolution has now made the fashion industry more inclusive and less exclusive. In the 1990’s, no one knew what was going on inside the fashion shows. Today there are queues of street style bloggers lining up outside Somerset house, watching the live stream shows of the catwalk, with the roles now being reversed on bloggers becoming the news breakers, rather than fashion journalists.
Fig 49: Windswept, 2013
Archetype: The Creative Traits: Individuality and Philosophical
How would you describe your personal style? Electric, modern, hippy grunge (a real mixture, often depending on my mood)
Furthermore, with high street store Topshop being the first to enter London Fashion Week, quickly followed by River Island, it does beg the question that should more high street stores now listen to the public’s opinion, as these bloggers are now hugely influential on consumers’ purchasing decisions?
What are you top three fashion brands? Asos, Zara, One Teaspoon
Primary research revealed that 39% out of 98 women in Generation Y were interested in blogging (see appendix 7), with the idea of keeping up with trends, with one participant stating that ‘I like to allow my followers to try out new products I’ve used that I do reviews on’ (Simms, 2013: see app 8), this is no doubt fuelled by the accessibility of social media.
In your wardrobe, what are your favourite items? Leather skirt, big jumpers, SHOES and statement coats. Which celebrity style would you wish to steal? Kate Foley (buyer for opening ceremony) and Suki Waterhouse
However, Waller (2013) explained that although bloggers are becoming increasingly popular within the fashion world, they are the trickiest group to target, this is due to them having no guidelines, meaning they can be ruthless – explaining that there is simply no control. This is something that increasingly concerns retailers, however, rather than simply dismissing it as a threat, this is surely an opportunity for the high street industry to target them, as can be seen through the success of Asos and Urban Outfitters targeting bloggers.
What magazines and blogs do you like to read? Oracle Fox, Stockholm Street Style, Love Aesthetics
Fig 48: Shiruetto, 2014
If your house was burning down, what three items would you take with you? House hold stuff – Acne boots, Louis Vuitton Bag, Alexander Wang dress.
83.
84. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
9.
Fig 51: Domenico Lovine Stockholm Street Style, 2014
what makes him tock?
88. 85.
XXvsXY XXvsXY
whats make him tock
Fig 53: Smart Wear, 2013
Fig 52: Hello Mr Issue 1, 2013
Although there is evidence of a significant increase in women purchasing, males too will be undergoing change and must not be overlooked. As Seabright, (2012) points out, the people we really have to look out for and take care of in this century are the men, as they are going to have much more difficulty adjusting. However, is this point leading to crisis or change?
89.
Fig 54: Elias Petrakis, 2012
90. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
the changing man
Fig 55: Luca Calvani, 2004
Primary research has shown that unlike men, 61% of 77 women prefer to browse when shopping on the high street (see app 6) compared to 63% of 72 males preferring to buy (see app 5), this showing males only shop when there is a specific item in mind. Tansley further reported; ‘according to a 2012 study by digital marketing agency iProspect, 70% of affluent men prefer to do their shopping research and purchases online. Moreover, over a quarter of those who participated in iProspect’s study made weekly purchases’ (Tansley, 2013: online), however interestingly primary research showed that 40% of men shopped once a month (see app 5). These statistics clearly shown there is a significant difference in the way sexes shop, however what Pace (2009) points out is that although men are more predictable buyers than women, it still does not make them an easy sale or an easy target on the high street.
Fig 56: Teo van den Broeke, 2014
91.
92. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
Fig 57: Chris Brown, 2013
Fig 58: Interiors, n.d.
93.
94. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
10. 95.
98. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
Fig 59: Young Professional, 2013
meet the tomorrow MAN
Fig 62: Adventure Man Calle Strand, 2013
The Intrepid Explorer Archetype: The Hero Traits shown: Courage and Discipline
‘Men are drawn to advertising, products and solutions that tell the traditional hero’s story’ (Pace, 2009: p7) Whilst attending the LS:N Global talk, Raymond (2013) explained that Millennial men now look upon peers and entrepreneurs as heroes. It is interesting to point out that interviews pointed out that men favoured X Box games such as Fifa 14, COD and Graft Theft Auto, as well as films like James Bond, Mission Impossible Fast and Furious and Gladiator, all of which encompass the ‘hero story’. This is further evidenced by the respondent answering: ‘I want to be part of the whole saving the world aspect, especially when I play Call of Duty and killing the Zombies – I like that I’m in control and I’m able to do to something about it’ (Streeter, 2013: see app 8). To expand on this, ‘The Hero’ consumer was in fact placed at the higher end of the Generation Y shown in interviews (see app 8), thus this supports Dr Dan Kiley’s (1983) theory of the ‘Peter Pan Syndrome’, whereby men are forever young and never really grow up. Advertisements further uphold this view, as seen with Timberland ‘This is Your Podium Advert’ shown in figure 60, by way of heralding that being a hero is a sign of masculinity.
How would you describe your personal style? I’d say casual - American Jock What are you top three fashion brands? Nike, Cow and Levi’s. In your wardrobe, what are your favourite items? My Levis vintage denim jacket and my Nike Air trainers Which celebrity style would you wish to steal? I used to love James Deans, so probably his. What magazines and blogs do you like to read? I read a lot of GQ magazine and sports magazine. In terms of blogs, I follow people like Laird Hamilton and Julian Wilson on their surfing. If your house was burning down, what three items would you take with you? My iPhone, my Canon camera and my backpack.
Fig 60: This is Your Podium Advert, 2013
99.
100. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
the sophisticate Archetype: The Lover Traits shown: Passion and Commitment When asking what masculinity means to males, one participant explained, ‘masculinity is about accepting a male’s role in life, so being a protector, provider, leader and role model’ (Griffiths, 2013: see app 8). In fact, Raymond (2013d) described men as now being ‘Rec-Con Man’, ‘Re-Con’ meaning reformed, explaining that men in their mid-twenties and early thirties are undergoing a revolution in their personal and professional lives. It is a man who embraces simplicity and who is more comfortable with home life and fatherhood. However, with the aforementioned rise in feminism, this seems to be pushing men to become more ambitious. Whilst there are facts to show the ‘number of employment for women has grown by a quarter of a million while the number of men in work has dropped by 70,000’ males are still dominating the market: ‘there are currently 29.7m people in work; 15.9m men employed compared to 13.8m women’ (Peacock, 2013: online). Further research shows that 37% of 72 men think that being successful is the most important thing in their life (see app 5), compared to 13% of women (see app 6). This implies that although gender roles are becoming equal, males are still dominant in the working world, and as Sally Denton (2013) explained, men earn £400,000 more in a lifetime than women. Retailers are picking up on this sophisticate man being seen, as shown in figure 66 of Ralph Lauren Spring/Summer 2013 campaign, portraying a tailored gentleman.
How would you describe your personal style? I would say smart and tailored, a very British look.
Fig 67: Chris Brown Working, 2013
What are you top three fashion brands? Reiss, Gant and Ralph Lauren. In your wardrobe, what are your favourite items? My big knit from Reiss and my lightweight spring jacket from Ralph Lauren. Which celebrity style would you wish to steal? David Gandy What magazines and blogs do you like to read? Golfing magazines If your house was burning down, what three items would you take with you? My phone, laptop and TV
Fig 66: Spring/Summer, 2013
101.
102. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
to summarise It can be said that the LS:N Global talk clearly set out the various types of new consumers that we are now seeing on the high street. It was interesting to see how the cultural calendar has had a massive impact on women and how ‘the hero story’ plays a massive part in men’s buying decisions. However, it is questionable as to whether some of the assumptions over the new consumer, as set out by Raymond, are valid. One consumer, in particular, labelled as the ‘Re-Con Man’ depicts that men now want the simple things in life, however, primary research into male ambitions have told a different story. This can be evidenced by one participant wanting to become ‘the Football Director of a PLC because I want to run a company that has influences across the world and to be able to shape its culture with my beliefs.’ (Santana, 2013: see app 8). Therefore, this somewhat contradicts Raymond’s assertion that men want to embrace simplicity, when in fact they want to embrace ambition. What became apparent through research is that new consumers all possess different archetypes – an archetype is ‘often referred to as stereotypes’ (Hughes, 2012). The twelve different archetypes can be shown in figure 73, all of which have different traits and characteristics. In fact, these archetypes are often used in branding, as Hughes (2012) explained ration leads to reason, emotion leads to action, which ultimately helps customers connect on an emotional level. To expand on this, an investigation was carried out, which aimed to test a hypothesis: consumers are associated with archetypes. The investigation-involved consumers being tested on how many brands they could remember from adverts seen on the TV. Interestingly, those adverts remember were: Marks and Spencer’s and John Lewis Christmas advert as well as Ceaser’s ‘Love Me Back’ (see app 10), all of which told a story. This is proof that the hypothesis is correct, in that the use of archetypes helps the consumer to remember the brand, but most importantly, they are able to connect to the brand emotionally.
Archetype:
Archetype:
Archetype:
Archetype:
Archetype:
Caregiver
ruler
Regular guy
Outlaw
Magician
Traits: order, control
Traits: Belonging
Traits: Challenging
Traits: Transformation
Traits: Safety, optimism Traits: helping, caring
Archetype:
Archetype:
Archetype:
Archetype:
Archetype:
Archetype:
Explorer
Lover
Sage
hero
Creator
Jester
Traits: freedom
Traits: Passion
Traits: Individuality
Traits: enjoyment, joy
Traits: Truth, wisdom Traits: winning, courage
Fig 74: Kooples Advert Johan and Mikaela, 2012
Archetype:
Innocent
Fig 73: Archetypes, 2014
103.
104. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
11.
108. XXvsXY XXvsXY
Fig 75: Marco Stockholm Street Style, 2014
conclusion
105.
the big problem ‘The Future belongs to those who prepare for it today’ (see Malcolm X in Raymond, M, 2010b: pg 172) Initial researched has focused a lot on the future of the high street. What was clearly apparent is that the future has been overdramatized with assumption titles such as ‘can anyone save our high street?’ Retailers were focusing too much on the future of superstores and how it would impact them, which seems to have masked the underlying issue that it stopped the high street developing creatively. The underlying theme throughout demonstrates there is a future; the determining factor being how brands will respond to it. As exemplified superbly by Urban Outfitters and Next – brands leading the forefront of understanding what the new consumer wants. The problem that retail is facing is that they are assuming that the consumers are the same as in the 1990’s; no consumer is the same as shown in different archetypes found, they all want different experiences, and are the ones that are exuberant of consumerism. What became apparent through research is that it is easy for retailers to fall into the trap of assuming it is ‘online versus offline’. The sooner the market understands that neither will ‘win’ this battle and recognise that they need to work in harmony and embrace the advantages each brings to consumption. WGSN remarked that e-commerce should be about this debate as take a ‘best of both worlds approach’ (Jobling, 2013a: online). As Richard Danks (2013) commented that nothing beats a store for creating a memorable brand experience.
Fig 76: High Street Empty Shops, 2013
However, now neither online or offline retail is insufficient to satisfying demanding customers, retailers now need to offer a lifestyle and experience ‘high streets and town centres that are fit for the 21st century need to be multifunctional social centres, not simply competitors for stretched consumers. They must offer irresistible opportunity and experiences that do not exist elsewhere, they are rooted in the interests and needs of local people, and will meet the demands of a rapidly changing world’ (Dobson, 2001: p2). As Megan Price, from Next explained the key to being successful is offering an experience; “I don’t think the high street is dying off, I think it’s more if you can offer the shopping experience the customers want then you will survive. I think the stores that haven’t lasted throughout the recession haven’t kept up with how modern day shoppers shop.” (Price, 2013: see app 1)
Fig 77: Sales Fall, 2011
109.
110. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
Whereas the modern day shoppers now remain ignorant to retailers, they are fundamentally the ‘company’s prosperity that’s it’s very survival will depend on, for they possess the power to make or break any business, of any size, at any time.’ (Lewis and Bridger 2001: pxiv). What retailers need to understand is the importance of the need to reassert and regain the control over consumers once more, ‘rather than tell something they know already, tell them something they don’t know’ (Mintel, 2014b: online). What was key in order to achieve this was the word ‘experience’ which was a running theme that became apparent during research, which is going to be key for the next twenty years of retail. As Bill Grimsey (2014) suggested that there will soon be stockless stores, this change process that we have seen since the 70’s is simply not going to slow down, but in fact accelerate. However, what was astonishing is that the retail world is undergoing such a dramatic change, one in which consumers won’t be able to recognise in twenty years time yet there is no authority behind helping us as consumers go through this change. As Grimsey (2014) explains ‘the retail sector has a total network of £135 billion pounds, this being compared to the education budget which only has £43 billion and the health budget at £110 billion pounds’ (Grimsey, 2014) – yet there is no authority solely responsible for the high street?
Fig 78: Lisa Olsson, 2014
111.
112. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
12.
116. XXvsXY XXvsXY
Fig 79: Bear and the Hare Christmas Advert, 2013
Implementation
113.
the big idea
Fig 80: David Gandy Christmas Advert, 2013
In an attempt to bring change, it is important to understand the starting position. In this respect, as established during research, there are no key differentiators that identify one store from another and one proposal contained within this thesis is to bring back originality. One exception to this norm has been Urban Outfitters who have adopted themes that encourage the shopper to remain in the shop for as long as possible. In-store time must ultimately equate to increase in sales and this remains a core theme in the suggestions made herein. The implementation will consist of three distinct areas but each contributing to increasing instore time. These areas are to re-discover the art storytelling as seen in Marks and Spencer’s Christmas advert (figure 80 and 81), the need to embrace technology and the blogging culture and finally to connect the retail mundane into real and memorable experiences.
Fig 81: Rosie Huntington-Whitely Christmas Advert, 2013
once upon a time....
117.
118. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
think with your heart - not your head ‘Products become much more meaningful and appealing to the consumer once they are invested in the story and heritage behind the brand’ (Berry, 2013: online) The art of storytelling has been present for decade’s even centuries, but it is one thing that has been lost with brand uniqueness. As Saunter (2013b) explains that just like great story tellers Charles Dickens and Ernest Hemingway were game-changers in their respective eras, their legacy still lives on, as Andrew Robertson, president of BBDO explained that Dickens ‘invented the concept of the cliff hanger to keep bringing readers back week after week to read his stories’ later explaining ‘if you don’t appeal to a lot of people then you can’t build a big brand’. (see Robertson in Saunter, 2013b: online). This fundamentally shows the importance that storytelling has on a brand, using Dickens concept and influential ideas to retail will not only help drive emotional purchase but develop more connection to a brand. What became evident in research is there is simply not one consumer. Each wants his or her own individual experience, as seen in the different archetypes mentioned earlier. Interestingly, when reading Lewis’s book, is that what every consumer does associate and connect with is storytelling, the psychology to consumption, ‘If you are going to persuade consumers, especially New Consumers, to buy something, you must weave around the product or service a story that not only has emotional appeal but also communicates an authentic message’ (Lewis and Bridger 2001: p. 39). Hugo Boss, ‘Love Story’ campaign as seen in figure 82, successfully picks up on this concept of having emotional appeal.
Along the same storytelling theme, brands need to target the heart more than the head. Each consumer feels connected with stories and at a recent talk ‘Online vs Offline’, Paul Sheehy, co-founder of Folk Magazine stated that ‘people buy stories not product’ (Sheehy, 2013). Consumers have such an emotional attachment to this, which can be seen in the ever-popular adverts such as recently John Lewis, Chanel, and BT, where the watcher is following the journey.
Fig 82: Hugo Boss Love Story, 2012
‘Anthropologists have stated that 70% of what we learn is through stories’ (Fels, 2013: online). This represents an important disconnect in that high street stores simply do not use this medium. Consequently, individuality is lost, yet the consumer is caught choosing between a selection of mimicked or cloned stores with little or zero differentiator? This point is not lost on Mary Portas who spoke of ‘clone town Britain’ where it is showing no individuality, which is what consumers demand. This storytelling, as Sheehy (2013) describes, is a key element in the way to make people connect emotionally and become regular customers of that brand.
119.
120. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
Fig 84: 430 Kings Road, 1971
But, having established the need, what makes great stories? Steve Levitt an economist and author of Freakonomics explained, ‘authenticity and relevance are crucial’ (see Levitt in Jobling, 2013c) with Lewis agreeing ‘authenticity is a function of the story woven around a product or service. Those with powerful, relevant and compelling story to tell will win big in the New economy, while companies whose stories are either non-existent, uninteresting or irrelevant are set to fail.’ (Lewis and Bridger, 2001: p44). The LS:N Global talk stated that the New Consumers are now ‘experience seekers looking for individuality’ (Raymond, 2013d) which is further proof that consumers are attracted to this authenticity and, perhaps, storytelling telling could offer this.
Fig 85: Anglomania A/W, 1993
This view is reinforced by luxury designer Vivienne Westwood in Jobling (2013c) who explained that the reason to her success comes down to the fact that stories are ingrained into her products giving them life and identity of their own (figure 84 and 85), she continued ‘one of the reason’s some things I designed 30 years ago are still seen as edgy, they tell stories’ explaining that in retail ‘everything has to tell a story. Somehow the clothes have this story integral to them. And for everybody that tries the clothes on it becomes a different story. But because it’s had the story to begin with, it adds character to the person’ (see Westwood in Jobling, 2013c). This further suggests the power of stories on the success of Westwood. Furthermore, Lewis and Bridger (2001) explains an irony that we have in today’s society, an age of unprecedented technological advances, and yet the human emotions still continue to play a paramount role in the commercial success of products and services. This point is echoed by Rolf Jenson in Lewis and Bridger; ‘Profit will be generated by the emotional content of the product itself. Companies will become story owners rather than product owners and they will be able to graft new products on to existing stories’ (see Lewis and Bridger, 2001: 39).
121.
122. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
Fig 88: Go Forth Campaign Now Is Our Time, 2012
Fig 86: Go Forth Campaign Tough As Your Spirit, 2012
One method of linking story telling with brand strategy is to reconnect with heritage; what is it about their brand that makes them who they are. A prime example of such is Levi’s, a successful denim brand, founded by Levi Strauss. The business was founded upon the realisation miners, during the Gold Rush, were complaining about their cotton pants, claiming they were too fragile. This resulted in Strauss pairing up with tailor Jacob Davis in 1873 where they would invent the first blue jean. This demonstrates a great heritage story shown through the medium of advertising shown in figure 86, 87 and 88), all of which has resulted in Levi becoming so successful, consumers are wanting to associate with Levi’s archetype, the explorer. This can be further demonstrated in their recent campaign ‘you want to go forth’ - the campaign speaking volumes in itself. What was key is that they let the customer become part of the retailer’s brand journey, an arguably risky move but an obvious success nonetheless.
Fig 87: Go Forth Campaign We Are All Workers, 2012
Celebrate the past
123.
124. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
make a place like home
An obvious tactic to encourage the in-store time is to create an environment and atmosphere that makes the customer feel comfortable. As Urban Outfitters explained ‘we feel that the atmosphere that they get when they come here is really important on making them stay in the store and getting them to come back, which is why we have the book tables, the game consoles, they can listen to music on the iPads’ (Tully, 2013: see app 2). This opinion is repeated by WGSN who explained that you should ‘encourage customers to linger in-store by creating a homely, welcoming environment’ (Berry, 2013: online). This will be the key for high street stores to create this experience in store and a great chance for the story to recreate the heritage of their brand. Shops are picking up on the concept of creating a lifestyle in store to attract customers, as can be seen in the ‘Folklore’ shop, a design boutique in London’s Islington (fig 89), with the owners putting their design on the store down to better living, shown through carefully selected and crafted furniture. This should offer inspiration to other high street stores. The concept of remaining in store is key, even if it is not to purchase, the customer being part of the brand journey and lifestyle of the brand is essential.
Fig 89: Folklore Store London, 2013
125.
126. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
Fig 90: Jack Wills Bath, 2011
127.
128. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
Community and Collaboration
Stories should be personal, they don’t have to be literal, now, according to innovative luxury brand Burberry, Chipperfield (2013) explained that a key future trend that is going to be ever prevalent is this idea of personalisation. There is nothing more personal than a community and WGSN have reported that community is currently a start-up trend to watch, explaining ‘community building is proving increasingly beneficial to commerce, spawning a whole generation of companies dedicated to the concept.’ (WGSN, 2014b: online). The word community was the key message that the high street possessed, but what actually makes a community anymore? Community should be about bringing people together as Mary Portas stated ‘high streets are a really important part of building communities and pulling people together in a way that a supermarket or shopping mall, however convenient, however entertaining and however slick, just never can.’ (Portas, 2011: online). This furthermore demonstrates the importance that the high street has over online and shopping malls – you simply can’t create a community like you can on the high street, this therefore is surely offering this personalisation that Chipperfield spoke of.
The New Millennials as suggested by WGSN (2013a) are also passionate about creating new communities: bringing brands, designers and consumers together to collaborate. The word that is key here is, collaboration. We’ve seen this numerous times on the high street, for instance, Lipsy collaborating with the Kardashians, River Island with Rihanna. However, what was interesting is that consumers no longer associate with celebrities, as evidenced in research, the Dove campaign, prefer to associate with real people, we are now wanting to ‘identify with people who look more like us and less like Scarlett Johansson’ (Lindstrom, 2009: 187). Collaboration with local talent should focus at creating personalisation, as at the 2012 Design Summit government officials, business leaders and world leading designers, addressed how they could design ways to help turn national characteristics into economic growth, the clear themes were ‘the importance of community, history, recognising what was special’ later explaining ‘how local characteristics become national assets’ (see Melius, 2012: online). This further demonstrates how using locals in the community will help distinguish Britain’s community further.
Fig 91: Arkwright Building Nottingham, 2010
Attracting local talent will become a key factor in order to create collaboration and as WGSN expressed that ‘community involvement is a core element of design success’ (Melius: 2012: online). For instant, using Nottingham City would be a great place to kick-start collaboration, with Nottingham currently being the ‘worst performing big centre with more than 30% of its sites empty’ (Cripps, 2012: online). However Macaskill (2014) also reported that Nottingham is known to have the highest creativity. Nottingham would represent a great opportunity to bring local talent in.
129.
130. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
Berlin An excellent example of fluid community and personalisation can be shown in Berlin. This authentic city can be shown through their use of art and architecture, which differs from east and west shown in figure 92, from Mitte’s fashion boutiques to Kreutsberg colorful district, each area expressing its own style, individuality and personality. As WGSN explain, ‘creative intervention is everywhere in Berlin, a city which is alive, pulsating and constantly evolving, making it one of the most inspiring style cities in the world.’ (Hankinson and Otero, 2013: online). Berlins unique attribute towards creativity, offers a natural marketing platform to attract new consumers.
Fig 92: Berlin, 2013
131.
132. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
collabORATE
This removes the need for consumers to relate to celebrities, instead real people; the consumers now prefer the idea of following a ‘real person’ style, as it makes it more achievable for them. This would also allow the opportunity for retailers to regain control over the consumer. Evidence of this can be seen by Elin Kling, a Swedish blogger who set up a blog ‘Style by Kling’ in 2007. King was to attract a cult of followers simply by posting daily photos of her outfits. Her successful blog led her to her in 2011 becoming the first blogger to collaborate with the world’s second largest high street brand H&M (figure 93) and was regarded by the New York financial times as ‘one of the best collaborative fast fashion collections in recent memory’ (Odell, 2011: online). As Alexander (2013) expressed that this successful venture marked a fashion innovation for H&M, with them already having a huge global profile of previous collaborations such as Comme des Garcon and Karl Lagerfield. This simply serves to demonstrate that having a successful collection doesn’t come down to who it is, yet in fact what it is that ultimately sells. Could it be from Kling’s collection success that H&M decided to create the store & Other Stories?
Fig 93: H&M Collection, 2011
Whilst research findings demonstrated that blogging is increasingly popular with today’s consumer culture, this represents a superb opportunity to embrace and adopt an inclusive stance on this new media. As Waller (2013) previously pointed out, the fashion industry is becoming more mainstream, the high street should now collaborate with bloggers, as can be shown through the success of & Other Stories, H&M’s sister brand a store that encompasses both blogging and stories. Rickey (2013) explains it focuses on female attitude to shopping influenced by social media and blogging offering the women a chance to create personal stories tailored around their individual nuances.
Emily Johnston of fashion news blog Fashion Foie Gras spoke on the importance of bloggers collaborating with retailers explaining ‘I think designers are asking blogs to collaborate because they find certain bloggers are aligned with their aesthetic and bring something new to the table’. She continued ‘It also helps that some bloggers have more readers than most print magazines these days. It’s a mutually beneficial project that results in exposure for both the blogger and the brand.’ (see Johnston in Luu,, 2012: online). This further demonstrates the importance the influence bloggers have over brands, surely retailers should identify the opportunity cost of using bloggers as seen from the obvious success of Kling.
133.
134. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
to Summarise In summary, it was Sir Clive Woodward who explained ‘difference is not made by doing one thing 100% better but by doing 100 things 1% better’ (Woodward, 2003: online). By introducing storytelling, it represents a way of retailers expressing individuality – this implementation will by no means ‘save’ the high street, but yet a introduce a small step to making a difference. As research would suggest that making the mundane act of shopping ‘an experience’ is also key for helping the future of retail, which is what stories would be able to provide. As Lindstrom explains; ‘I believe that our national obsession with buying and consuming is just going to escalate, as marketers become better and better at targeting our subconscious wishes and desires’ (Lindstrom, 2009: p. 199). The link with the bloggers is also a small but so essential part in adopting Woodwards philosophy of ‘100 things’. It is so desperately important that retailers realise is not to be scared of the change that faces them. As Bill Grimsey pointed out ‘if you’re going to embrace change you’re going to like irrelevance even less’ (Grimsey 2014). Once retailers understand their consumer for their store, they will then cater for there needs and desires for the ‘tomorrow people’. Fig 94: Kooples Advert Celyn and Bjoern, 2011
135.
136. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
13. Refernces 137.
138.. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
DOBSON, J., 2012. The High Street: From Shopping Centre to Social Centre. [Report]. UK: Urban Pollinators.
Bibliography ALEXANDER, H., 2011. H&M teams up with fashion blogger. Fashion Telegraph [online]. 10 January. Available at: http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/ news-features/TMG8250351/HandM-teams-up-with-fashion-blogger.html [Accessed 5 January 2014] ANDERSON, H. and Ritter, T., 2008. Inside the Customer Universe: How to Build Unique Customer Insight for Profitable Growth and Market – Leadership. Chichester: John Wiley & Sons. BAIRD, N., 2013. Brand Storytelling and Retail: The Setting [online]. London: RSR Research. Available at: http://www.rsrresearch. com/2013/11/05/brand-storytelling-and-retail-the-setting/ [Accessed November 10 2013]
DRUCKER, P.F., 1994. Post-Capitalist Society. London: Butterworth-Heineman FAIRLEY, J., 2013. Dear M&S, women are a tough nut to crack. The Telegraph [online]. 4 November. Avilable at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/ women/womens-business/10425525/Dear-MandS-women-are-a-tough-nut-to-crack.html [Accessed 6 December 2013] FAIRLEY, J., 2013. ‘Wardrobing’ is a disgusting habit – unless retailers can cash in. The Telegraph [online]. 11 November. Available at: http://www. telegraph.co.uk/women/womens-business/10440554/Wardrobing-is-a-disgusting-habit-unless-retailers-can-cash-in.html [Accessed 12 November 2013] FARNDALE, N., 2011. Michael Barrymore and the eternal mystery of a woman’s handbag. The Telegraph [online]. 19 February. Available at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/comment/columnists/nigelfarndale/8335484/Michael-Barrymore-and-the-eternal-mystery-of-a-womans-handbag. html [Accessed 6 December 2013]
BERRY, K., 2013. Brand storytelling: retail best practice. [online]. Available via: WGSN [Accessed 3 January 2014].
FELS, A., 2013. The Power of Story [online]. Thornbury: Bounce Books. Available at: http://www.bouncebooks.com/what-we-do [Accessed 25 November 2013]
BIGNELl, P., 2013. Shopping? It’s all in the gender. The Independent [online]. 24 March. Available at: http://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/thisbritain/shopping-its-all-in-the-gender-8547059.html [Accessed 2 October 2013]
GILLIAM, D. A., and Zablah, A. R., 2013. Storytelling during retail sales encounters. Journal of Retailing and Consumer Service, 20 (5), pp 488494.
BOURNE, L., 2010. The Rise Of The Style Blogger [online]. London: Forbes. Available at: http://www.forbes.com/2010/02/12/fashion-bloggerclothes-forbes-woman-style-shopping.html [Accessed 5 January 2014]
GLENNIE, A., 2012. The spying mannequin: Store dummies fitted with cameras to note customers’ age, race and buying habits. Daily Mail [online]. 26 November. Available at: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2238461/The-spying-mannequin-Store-dummies-fitted-cameras-notecustomers-age-race-buying-habits.html [Accessed 27 November 2013].
BUSH, G., 1993. George H.W. Bush Quotes [online]. America: Examiner. Available at: http://www.examiner.com/article/george-h-w-bush-quotes [Accessed 7 December 2013] CALLANDER, R., 2013. ‘Pop-up shops can save the high street,’ says Boxpark entrepreneur. The Telegraph [online]. 11 November. Available at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/finance/businessclub/10441261/Pop-up-shops-can-save-the-high-street-says-Boxpark-entrepreneur.html [Accessed 11 November 2013] CARTER, N., 2013. Multi-sensory retail: why stores must appeal to all five senses. The Guardian [online]. 21 August. Available at: http://www. theguardian.com/media-network/media-network-blog/2013/aug/21/multi-sensory-retail-high-street [Accessed 25 August 2013] CHIPPERFIELD, C., 2013. Burberry at NTU [Lecture to Nottingham Trent Art and Design School, Nottingham Trent University]. 29 November 2013. CONNIFF, M., 2013. Millennials and the new value of shopper marketing. Smart Blogs. [online blog]. 12 November. Available at: http:// smartblogs.com/leadership/2013/11/12/millennials-and-the-new-value-of-shopper-marketing/ [Accessed 27 November 2013] CONSUMER FUTURES., 2013. Consumer conditions in the UK 2012 – Analysis of the EU Market Monitoring Survey Results [online]. London: Consumer Future. Available at: http://www.consumerfutures.org.uk/reports/consumer-conditions-in-the-uk-2012-analysis-of-the-eu-marketmonitoring-survey-results [Accessed 30 September 2013] CREATIVE NOTTINGHAM, [n.d.]. Art Creative Nottingham [online]. Nottingham: Creative Nottingham. Available at: http://www. creativenottingham.com/category/art-craft/art/ [Accessed 9 January 2014] CRIPPS, P., 2012. Number of vacant high street shops continues to rise. The Independent [online]. 4 September. Avilabale at: http://www. independent.co.uk/news/uk/home-news/number-of-vacant-high-street-shops-continues-to-rise-8103912.html [Accessed 23 November 2013] DAILY MAIL REPORTER., 2012. The bionic mannequins using hidden police surveillance technology to track shoppers’ age, gender and race. Daily Mail [online]. 21 November. Available at: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2236540/The-bionic-mannequins-using-hidden-policesurveillance-technology-track-shoppers-age-gender-race.html [Accessed 21 November 2013]. DANKS, R., 2013. Trend Boutique -Online vs Offline. [Lecture to Trend Briefing audience, Nottingham Broadway Cinema]. 27 November 2013. DELOITTE., n.d. The changing face of retail. The store of the future: the new role of the store in a multichannel environment [online]. London: Deloitte. Available at: https://www.deloitte.com/assets/Dcom-UnitedKingdom/Local%20Assets/Documents/Industries/Consumer%20Business/ uk-cb-store-of-the-future-report.pdf [Accessed 25 November 2013] DENTON, S., 2013. Trend Boutique -Online vs Offline. [Lecture to Trend Briefing audience, Nottingham Broadway Cinema]. 27 November 2013. DMQ GROUP, 2013. Retail 2013: Current and future trends in consumer shopping behaviour [online]. London: Data IQ Retail Masterclass. Available at: http://www.dataiq.co.uk/reports/201307/retail2013-current-and-future-trends-consumer-shopping-behaviour [Accessed 15 October 2013]
GRAVES, P., 2010. Consumer.ology: The Truth about Consumers and the Psychology of Shopping. London: Nicholas Brealey Publishing. GREEN, E. and ADAM, A., 2001. Virtual Gender: Technology Consumption and Identity. London: Routledge. GRIMSEY, B. 2014. Preparing Town Centres and High Streets for the 21st Century. [Lecture to Nottingham Business School, Nottingham Trent University]. 16 January 2014. HANKINSON, E. and OTERO, R., 2013. Berlin. [online]. Available via: WGSN [Accessed 3 January 2014]. HARRIS, S., 2013. Debenhams drops ‘sexist’ toy labels. Parents don’t want children to feel pressurised into picking gender-specific options. Daily Mail [online] 2 November. Available at: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2483939/Debenhams-drops-sexist-toy-labels-Parents-dont-wantchildren-feel-pressurised-picking-gender-specific-options.html [Accessed 3 November 2013]. HAVAS, W., 2010. The New Consumer in the Era of Mindful Spending. Prosumer Report [online], 8. Available at: http://www.prosumer-report.com/ blog/wp-content/uploads/downloads/2012/09/new-consumer.pdf [Accessed 17 October 2013]. HAVAS, W., 2010. GENDER SHIFT: Are Women the New Men?. Prosumer Report [online], 9 Available at: http://www.prosumer-report.com/blog/ gender.pdf [Accessed 17 October 2013]. HAWKES, S., 2013. Shoppers’ faces to be scanned in advertising push at Tesco petrol stations across the UK. The Telegraph [online]. 3 November. Available at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/technology/10423400/Shoppers-faces-to-be-scanned-in-advertising-push-at-Tesco-petrol-stationsacross-the-UK.html [Accessed 5 November 2013] HAWKES, S., 2013. John Lewis launches nationwide contest to find new voice for its Christmas ad. The Telegraph [online]. 20 November. Available at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/finance/newsbysector/retailandconsumer/10460348/bear-and-hare-best-Christmas-ads-Lily-Allen-John-LewisChristmas-adverts-Xmas-ads-Steve-Hawkes.html [Accessed 26 November 2013]. HILTON, A., 2013. Anthony Hilton: It’s not just high streets but shopping centres that are on the retreat. The Independent [online]. 12 October. Available at: http://www.independent.co.uk/news/business/comment/anthony-hilton-its-not-just-high-streets-but-shopping-centres-that-are-onthe-retreat-8875341.html?origin=internalSearch [Accessed 15 October 2013] HOLMES, M., 2007. What is Gender?: Sociological Approaches. London: SAGE Publications HUGHES, M., 2012. Archetypes – The Future of Brands and Advertising. [Lecture to Fashion Communication and Promotion, Nottingham Trent University]. 30 November 2012 JOBLING, A., 2013a. E-commerce: three key strategies for 2014. [online]. Available via: WGSN [Accessed 3 January 2014]. JOBLING, A., 2013b. Retail technology: ways to get ahead in 2014. [online]. Available via: WGSN [Accessed 5 January 2014]. JOBLING, A., 2013c. Storytelling: making it work for your brand. [online]. Available via: WGSN [Accessed 3 January 2014].
139.
140. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
JOBLING, A., 2014. Technology in 2014: what you need to know. [online]. Available via: WGSN [Accessed 8 January 2014]. JHA, R., 2013. The Powerful Campaign Calls Out The Double Standards That Women Face At Work [online]. New York: Buzz Feed. Available at: http://www.buzzfeed.com/regajha/this-powerful-campaign-calls-out-the-double-standards-that-w [Accessed 6 December 2013] JOSEPH, J., 2013. Esquire Ushers in the New Male Consumer. Huffington Post [online blog]. 9 March. Available at: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/ jim-joseph/esquire-ushers-in-the-new_b_3858874.html [Accessed 9 November 2013] KASPER, J. and TYSON, E., 2013. Actionable Art: Hello My Name Is Paul Smith. [online]. Available via: WGSN [Accessed 5 January 2014]. KILEY, D., 1983. Puer aeternus. Wikipedia [online]. Available at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Puer_aeternus [Accessed 4 October 2013]. KING, T., [n.d.]. Retail Marketing/Consumer Behaviour [online]. Beford: Cranfield University. Available at: http://www.som.cranfield.ac.uk/som/ p16761/Programmes-and-Executive-Development/Doctorates/The-PhD-Programme/Doctoral-Opportunities/Retail-Marketing-ConsumerBehaviour [Accessed 4 October 2013] LANIER, J., 2013. Who Owns The Future? [online]. London: School of Life. Available at: http://www.theschooloflife.com/blog/2013/02/who-ownsthe-future/ [Accessed 16 October 2013]
MOORHOUSE, J., 2013. Would you like an eclair with that shirt? Next welcomes Patisserie Valerie into its stores. . Fashion Telegraph [online]. 6 November. Available at: http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/article/TMG10430894/Next-welcomes-Patisserie-Valerie-cafes-into-its-stores.html [Accessed 20 November 2013] MUKHERJEE, A., 2013. Make IT Better: How to keep Generation Y staff motivated and on side [online]. London: V3. Available at: http://www. v3.co.uk/v3-uk/opinion/2288568/make-it-better-how-to-keep-generation-y-staff-motivated-and-on-side [Accessed 5 December 2013]. NEATE, R., 2012. Coffee shop revolution continues to stimulate the high street. The Guardian [online]. 22 June. Available at: http://www. theguardian.com/business/2012/jun/22/coffee-shop-revolution-continues [Accessed 23 November 2013] ODELL. A., 2011. Swedish Fashion Blogger Elin Kling Designed a Collection for H&M. NY Mag [online]. 1 October. Available at: http://nymag. com/thecut/2011/01/swedish_fashion_blogger_elin_k.html [Accessed 3 January, 2014] O’REILLY, L., 2012. Every brand has a story to tell – don’t fluff your lines [online]. London: Marketing Week. Available at: http://www. marketingweek.co.uk/opinion/every-brand-has-a-story-to-tell-dont-fluff-your-lines/4002593.article [Accessed 7 January 2014] PACE, E., 2009. The X and Y of Buy: Sell More and Market Better by Knowing How the Sexes Shop. Nashville: Thomas Nelson Inc.
LENNON, J., 1970. Nobody Told Me. Milk and Honey (CD). Hollywood: Capitol Records.
PATEL, D., 2013. Luxury retailers leading the way with in-store technology. The Guardian [online]. 15 January. Available at: http://www. theguardian.com/media-network/media-network-blog/2013/jan/15/luxury-retailers-in-store-tech [Accessed 2 October 2013]
LEWIS, C. and BRIDGER, D., 2001. The Soul of the New Consumer: Authenticity – What We Buy and Why in the New Economy. London: Nicholas Brealey Publishing.
PEACOCK, L., 2013. Women ‘fared better than men’ in jobs since recession. The Telegraph [online]. 10 June. Available at: http://www.telegraph. co.uk/women/womens-business/10106807/Women-fared-better-than-men-in-jobs-since-recession.html [Accessed 27 November 2013]
LEWIS, T., 2012. Can anyone save our high street?. The Independent [online]. 28 April. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/society/2012/ apr/28/high-streets [Accessed 22 September 2013]
PITCHERS, E., 2012. Who’s that girl? Elin Kling. Fashion Telegraph [online]. 6 August. Available at: http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/ TMG9432968/Whos-that-girl-Elin-Kling.html [Accessed 6 January 2014]
LINDSTROM, M. and Kotler, P., 2005. Brand Senses: How to build powerful brands through touch, taste, smell, sight & sound. London: Kogan Page Limited.
PORTAS, M., 2011. The Portas Review. [Report]. London: Mary Portas 2011.
LINDSTROM, M., 2009. Buyology: How Everything We Believe About Why We Buy Is Wrong. London: Random House Business.
PRENSKY, M., 2001. Digital Native. Wikipedia [online]. Available at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_native [Accessed 5 December 2013].
LINDSTROM, M., 2011. Brandwashed: Tricks Companies Use to Manipulate Our Minds and Persuade Us to Buy. New York: Crown Business.
QUINTESSENTIALLY EXHIBITIONS, [n.d.] Organising and Building Exhibitions Across the Globe. London: Quintessentially Exhibitions. Available at: http://www.quintessentiallyexhibitions.com/contact [Accessed 27 December 2013]
LOCKE, L.F., SILVERMAN, S.J., and SPIRDUSO, W., 1998. Reading and Understanding Research. London: Sage Publications.
RAVETZ, J., 2000. City – Region 2020: Integrated Planning for a Sustainable Environment. London: Earthscan Publications.
LUU, P., 2012. The rise of the blogger designer. Fashion Telegraph [online]. 22 August. Available at: http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/ tmg9489637/The-rise-of-the-blogger-designer.html [Accessed 5 January 2014]
RAYMOND, M., 2003a. Tomorrow People: Future Consumers and How to Read Them. London: Financial Times Prentice Hall.
MA, K., 2013. The Business Of Blogging Archives [online]. London: The Business of Fashion. Available at: http://www.businessoffashion.com/ category/people/the-business-of-blogging-2 [Accessed 6 January 2014] MACASKILL, S., 2014. The Road Less Travelled. [Lecture to Fashion Communication and Promotion, Nottingham Trent University]. 9 January 2014 MACMILLAN, H., 1960. Harold Macmillan. Wikipedia [online]. Available at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harold_Macmillan [Assessed 7 December 2013]. MCDOWELL, C., 2013. Colin McDowell at NTU. [Lecture to Nottingham Trent Art and Design School, Nottingham Trent University]. 19 March 2013. MELIUS, L., 2012. How local characteristics become national assets: Design Summit 2012. [online] Available via: WGSN [Accessed 20 December 2014]. Mena Trott: Meet the founder of the blog revolution, 2006. TED Talks. February 2006. MINTEL., 2011a. Online fashion clicks with Brits as market increases 152% over past five years. [online]. Available via: Mintel [Accessed 3 September 2013]. MINTEL., 2013. Department Store Retailing – UK – May 2013. [online]. Available via: Mintel [Accessed 3 September 2013]. MINTEL., 2013. E-Commerce – Europe – July 2013. [online]. Available via: Mintel [Accessed 15 September 2013] MINTEL., 2014b. UK consumer trends for 2014. [online]. Available via: Mintel [Accessed 3 January 2014].
RAYMOND, M., 2010b. The Trend Forecaster’s Handbook. London: Laurence King Publishing. RAYMOND, M., 2013c. LS:N Global Strange Days. [Lecture to Trend Briefing audience, Nottingham Broadway Cinema]. 24 April 2013. RAYMOND. M., 2013d. LS:N Global XX vs XY. [Lecture to Trend Briefing audience, Nottingham Broadway Cinema]. 23 October 2013. RICE, C., 1997. Understanding Consumers. 2nd ed. Oxford: Butterworth-Heinemann. RICKEY, M., 2013. High-concept outlet from H&M influenced by fashion bloggers. The Guardian [online]. 8 March. Available at: http://www. theguardian.com/fashion/2013/mar/08/regent-street-retail-other-stories [Accessed 3 January 2014] RIVLIN, J., 2013. Warning: If you upset today’s ferocious online feminists, prepare for a flood of abuse. The Telegraph Blog. [online blog]. 30 August. Available at: http://blogs.telegraph.co.uk/technology/jackrivlin/100010138/warning-if-you-upset-todays-ferocious-online-feministsprepare-for-a-flood-of-abuse/ [Accessed 27 November 2013] ROGERS, R. and Gumuchdjian, P., 1997. Cities for a Small Planet. London: Faber & Faber. RUDDICK, G., 2013a. UK undergoing biggest generational change in consumers since the 1960s, Tesco boss says. The Telegraph [online]. 22 September. Available at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/finance/newsbysector/retailandconsumer/10326982/UK-undergoing-biggest-generationalchange-in-consumers-since-the-1960s-Tesco-boss-says.html [Accessed 4 October 2013] RUDDICK, G., 2013b. What Marks & Spencer could learn from Primark. The Telegraph [online]. 5 November. Available at: http://www.telegraph. co.uk/finance/newsbysector/retailandconsumer/10426968/What-Marks-and-Spencer-could-learn-from-Primark.html [Accessed 10 November 2013] RUDDICK, G., 2013. Tablets and smartphones have changed Christmas shopping forever. The Telegraph [online]. 6 November. Available at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/finance/newsbysector/retailandconsumer/10434370/Tablets-and-smartphones-have-changed-Christmas-shoppingforever.html [Accessed 10 November 2013]
141.
142.. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
RUDDICK, G., 2013. New Look heads for China as sales grow. The Telegraph [online]. 12 November. Available at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/ finance/newsbysector/retailandconsumer/10445054/New-Look-heads-for-China-as-sales-grow.html [Accessed 25 November 2013] RUMSEY, A., 2014. Retail trends 2014: top 10. [online]. Available via: WGSN [Accessed 11 January 2014]. ] RUSSELL, J., 2012. Embattled British high street will struggle with effects of recession until 2020. The Telegraph [online]. 28 May. Available at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/finance/economics/9293652/Embattled-British-high-street-will-struggle-with-effects-of-recession-until-2020.html [ Accessed 20 September 2013] SANGHANI, R., 2013. How the British shop – top 30 facts. The Telegraph [online]. 31 October. Available at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/finance/ newsbysector/retailandconsumer/10416827/How-the-British-shop-top-30-facts.html [Accessed November 2013] SAUNTER, L., 2013a. Millenials: a trader generation. [online]. Available via: WGSN [Accessed 3 January 2014]. SAUNTER, L., 2013b. Learning from the greats: storytelling inspiration. [online]. Available via: WGSN [Accessed 28 December 2013] SEABRIGHT, P., 2012. The War of the Sexes: How conflict and Cooperation Have Shared Men and Women from Prehistory to the Present. New Jersey: Princeton University Press. SCHWARTZ, B., 2005. The Paradox of Choice: Why More Is Less. New York: HarperCollins.
WGSN, 2013. Aeropostale launches collection with blogger Bethany Mota. [online]. Available via: WGSN [Accessed 5 January 2014]. WGSN, 2013. Futuristic Fables: A/W 14/15 intimates. [online]. Available via: WGSN [Accessed 2 January 2014]. WGSN, 2013. Major Oxford Street retailers join forces to promote London Fashion Week. [online]. Available via: WGSN [Accessed 7 January 2014]. WGSN, 2013a. Store for Millenials: retail best practice. [online]. Available via: WGSN [Accessed 5 January 2014]. WGSN, 2014b. Start-up trend watch: community. [online]. Available via: WGSN [Accessed 5 January 2014]. WGSN, 2013. 70% of shoppers face stock shortages – study. [online]. Available via: WGSN [Accessed 5 January 2014]. WILLIAMS, J. C., 2013. Meet the New Face of Diversity. The “Slacker” Millennial Guy. Harvard Business Review [online blog]. October 14. Available at: http://blogs.hbr.org/2013/10/meet-the-new-face-of-diversity-the-slacker-millennial-guy/ [Accessed October 25 2013] WOODWARD, C., 2003. Marginal gains can give big results. Truth About Exercise [online blog]. August 18 Available at: http://truthaboutexercise. wordpress.com/2012/08/18/marginal-gains-can-give-big-results/ [Accessed 15 January 2014] ZUKIN, S., 2010. Naked City: The Death and Life of Authentic Urban Places. Oxford: Oxford University Press.
SHEEHY. P., 2013. Trend Boutique -Online vs Offline. [Lecture to Trend Briefing audience, Nottingham Broadway Cinema]. 27 November 2013. SIMPSON, E., 2012. Tesco try out virtual grocery Gatwick Airport. BBC News [online]. 7 August. Available at: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/ technology-19148154 [Accessed 17 December 2013] SINCLAIR, C., 2013. The shape we’re in. Stella [online]. 13 November. Available at: http://bodybychristina.com/ShapeWeAreIn.pdf [Accessed 15 November, 2013] STANFORD, P., 2013. It’s the end of this road for the high street. The Telegraph [online]. 18 June. Available at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/lifestyle/ reinvent-the-high-street/10127724/Its-the-end-of-this-road-for-the-high-street.html [Accessed 10 September 2013]. TATA, n.d. Establishing a Presence in Emerging Markets [online]. India: Tata Communications. Available at: http://www.tatacommunications.com/ downloads/providers/ GCS_WhitePaper-EmergingMarket_1211_US-WEBREADY-size_ v1.4.pdf [Accessed 28 November 2013] TANSLEY, I., 2013. 8 Reasons Why Men Are Trading In-Person Shopping for Online Retail [online]. America: Forbes. Available at: http://www.forbes. com/sites/iantansley/2013/10/24/8-reasons-why-men-are-trading-in-in-person-shopping-for-online-retail/ [Accessed 3 November 2013] TAYLOR, J., 2013. Panel on Millennials Aims to Teach Millennials About Millennials. The New York Observer [online]. 27 September. Available at: http://observer.com/2013/09/panel-on-millennials-aims-to-teach-millennials-about-millennials/ [Accessed 2 October 2013] TRONI, N., 2011. MILLENIALS: The Challenger Generation. Prosumer Report [online], 11. Available at: http://www.prosumer-report.com/blog/ wp-content/uploads/2011/04/MGv16no%20crops.pdf . [Accessed 17 October 2013]. URBN, 2014. Company Profile [online]. Calofornia: Urban Outfitters. Available at: http://urbn.com/profile/ [Accessed 3 December 2013] Underhill, P., 2009. Why We Buy: The Science of Shopping. New York: Simon and Schuster. Ungerleider, N., 2013. The Future Of Shopping: Shelves That Track The Age And Gender Of Passing Customers [online]. America: Fast Company. Available at: http://www.fastcompany.com/3020041/fast-feed/the-future-of-shopping-shelves-that-track-the-age-and-gender-of-passingcustomers [Accessed November 20 2013] VARGA, C and HENDRY, V., 2014. Motivational slogans: sport trend analysis. [online]. Available via: WGSN [Accessed 8 January 2014]. VARGA, C., 2014. New workouts: sport emerging trend analysis. [online]. Available via: WSGN [Accessed 27 January 2014] VERDE GROUP, [n.d.]. He Buys, She Shops: A Study Of Gender Differences In The Retail Expierence Executive Summary [online]. Toronoto: Verde Group. Available at: http://www.verdegroup.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/He-Buys-She-Shops.pdf [Accessed 15 October 2013]. VERNON, M., 2011. Mark Vernon on Consumerism [online]. London: School of Life. Available at: http://www.theschooloflife.com/blog/2011/05/ mark-vernon-on-consumerism/ [Accessed 16 October 2013] WALLER, A., 2013. Trend Boutique -Online vs Offline. [Lecture to Trend Briefing audience, Nottingham Broadway Cinema]. 27 November 2013. WEISS, M., 2013. DIGITAL AND THE NEW CONSUMER. Prosumer Report [online] 16. Available at: http://www.prosumer-report.com/blog/ category/digital-and-the-new-consumer/ [Accessed 17 October 2013].
143.
144. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
Refernces 145.
146. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
JOBLING, A., 2013a. E-commerce: three key strategies for 2014. [online]. Available via: WGSN [Accessed 3 January 2014].
References ALEXANDER, H., 2011. H&M teams up with fashion blogger. Fashion Telegraph [online]. 10 January. Available at: http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/ news-features/TMG8250351/HandM-teams-up-with-fashion-blogger.html [Accessed 5 January 2014] BERRY, K., 2013. Brand storytelling: retail best practice. [online]. Available via: WGSN [Accessed 3 January 2014]. BIGNELL, P., 2013. Shopping? It’s all in the gender. The Independent [online]. 24 March. Available at: http://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/thisbritain/shopping-its-all-in-the-gender-8547059.html [Accessed 2 October 2013] BUSH, G., 1993. George H.W. Bush Quotes [online]. America: Examiner. Available at: http://www.examiner.com/article/george-h-w-bush-quotes [Accessed 7 December 2013] CHIPPERFIELD, C., 2013. Burberry at NTU [Lecture to Nottingham Trent Art and Design School, Nottingham Trent University]. 29 November 2013. CONNIFF, M., 2013. Millennials and the new value of shopper marketing. Smart Blogs. [online blog]. 12 November. Available at: http://smartblogs. com/leadership/2013/11/12/millennials-and-the-new-value-of-shopper-marketing/ [Accessed 27 November 2013] CRIPPS, P., 2012. Number of vacant high street shops continues to rise. The Independent [online]. 4 September. Avilabale at: http://www.independent. co.uk/news/uk/home-news/number-of-vacant-high-street-shops-continues-to-rise-8103912.html [Accessed 23 November 2013] DANKS, R., 2013. Trend Boutique -Online vs Offline. [Lecture to Trend Briefing audience, Nottingham Broadway Cinema]. 27 November 2013. DELOITTE., n.d. The changing face of retail. The store of the future: the new role of the store in a multichannel environment [online]. London: Deloitte. Available at: https://www.deloitte.com/assets/Dcom-UnitedKingdom/Local%20Assets/Documents/Industries/Consumer%20Business/ uk-cb-store-of-the-future-report.pdf [Accessed 25 November 2013] DENTON, S., 2013. Trend Boutique -Online vs Offline. [Lecture to Trend Briefing audience, Nottingham Broadway Cinema]. 27 November 2013.
JOBLING, A., 2013b. Retail technology: ways to get ahead in 2014. [online]. Available via: WGSN [Accessed 5 January 2014]. JOBLING, A., 2013c. Storytelling: making it work for your brand. [online]. Available via: WGSN [Accessed 3 January 2014]. KILEY, D., 1983. Puer aeternus. Wikipedia [online]. Available at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Puer_aeternus [Accessed 4 October 2013]. LENNON, J., 1970. Nobody Told Me. Milk and Honey (CD). Hollywood: Capitol Records. LEWIS, C. and BRIDGER, D., 2001. The Soul of the New Consumer: Authenticity – What We Buy and Why in the New Economy. London: Nicholas Brealey Publishing. LEWIS, T., 2012. Can anyone save our high street?. The Independent [online]. 28 April. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/society/2012/ apr/28/high-streets [Accessed 22 September 2013] LINDSTROM, M., 2009. Buyology: How Everything We Believe About Why We Buy Is Wrong. London: Random House Business. LUU, P., 2012. The rise of the blogger designer. Fashion Telegraph [online]. 22 August. Available at: http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/ tmg9489637/The-rise-of-the-blogger-designer.html [Accessed 5 January 2014] MACASKILL, S., 2014. The Road Less Travelled. [Lecture to Fashion Communication and Promotion, Nottingham Trent University]. 9 January 2014 MACMILLAN, H., 1960. Harold Macmillan. Wikipedia [online]. Available at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harold_Macmillan [Assessed 7 December 2013]. MCDOWELL, C., 2013. Colin McDowell at NTU. [Lecture to Nottingham Trent Art and Design School, Nottingham Trent University]. 19 March 2013. MELIUS, L., 2012. How local characteristics become national assets: Design Summit 2012. [online] Available via: WGSN [Accessed 20 December 2014].
DOBSON, J., 2012. The High Street: From Shopping Centre to Social Centre. [Report]. UK: Urban Pollinators.
MINTEL., 2011a. Online fashion clicks with Brits as market increases 152% over past five years. [online]. Available via: Mintel [Accessed 3 September 2013].
DRUCKER, P.F., 1994. Post-Capitalist Society. London: Butterworth-Heineman
MINTEL., 2014b. UK consumer trends for 2014. [online]. Available via: Mintel [Accessed 3 January 2014].
FAIRLEY, J., 2013. Dear M&S, women are a tough nut to crack. The Telegraph [online]. 4 November. Avilable at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/ women/womens-business/10425525/Dear-MandS-women-are-a-tough-nut-to-crack.html [Accessed 6 December 2013]
MUKHERJEE, A., 2013. Make IT Better: How to keep Generation Y staff motivated and on side [online]. London: V3. Available at: http://www.v3.co. uk/v3-uk/opinion/2288568/make-it-better-how-to-keep-generation-y-staff-motivated-and-on-side [Accessed 5 December 2013].
FARNDALE, N., 2011. Michael Barrymore and the eternal mystery of a woman’s handbag. The Telegraph [online]. 19 February. Available at: http:// www.telegraph.co.uk/comment/columnists/nigelfarndale/8335484/Michael-Barrymore-and-the-eternal-mystery-of-a-womans-handbag.html [Accessed 6 December 2013]
NEATE, R., 2012. Coffee shop revolution continues to stimulate the high street. The Guardian [online]. 22 June. Available at: http://www.theguardian. com/business/2012/jun/22/coffee-shop-revolution-continues [Accessed 23 November 2013]
FELS, A., 2013. The Power of Story [online]. Thornbury: Bounce Books. Available at: http://www.bouncebooks.com/what-we-do [Accessed 25 November 2013] GRAVES, P., 2010. Consumer.ology: The Truth about Consumers and the Psychology of Shopping. London: Nicholas Brealey Publishing. GRIMSEY, B. 2014. Preparing Town Centres and High Streets for the 21st Century. [Lecture to Nottingham Business School, Nottingham Trent University]. 16 January 2014. HANKINSON, E. and OTERO, R., 2013. Berlin. [online]. Available via: WGSN [Accessed 3 January 2014]. HAVAS, W., 2010a. The New Consumer in the Era of Mindful Spending. Prosumer Report [online], 8. Available at: http://www.prosumer-report.com/ blog/wp-content/uploads/downloads/2012/09/new-consumer.pdf [Accessed 17 October 2013]. HAVAS, W., 2010b. GENDER SHIFT: Are Women the New Men?. Prosumer Report [online], 9 Available at: http://www.prosumer-report.com/blog/ gender.pdf [Accessed 17 October 2013]. HOLMES, M., 2007. What is Gender?: Sociological Approaches. London: SAGE Publications HUGHES, M., 2012. Archetypes – The Future of Brands and Advertising. [Lecture to Fashion Communication and Promotion, Nottingham Trent University]. 30 November 2012
ODELL. A., 2011. Swedish Fashion Blogger Elin Kling Designed a Collection for H&M. NY Mag [online]. 1 October. Available at: http://nymag. com/thecut/2011/01/swedish_fashion_blogger_elin_k.html [Accessed 3 January, 2014] PACE, E., 2009. The X and Y of Buy: Sell More and Market Better by Knowing How the Sexes Shop. Nashville: Thomas Nelson Inc. PEACOCK, L., 2013. Women ‘fared better than men’ in jobs since recession. The Telegraph [online]. 10 June. Available at: http://www.telegraph. co.uk/women/womens-business/10106807/Women-fared-better-than-men-in-jobs-since-recession.html [Accessed 27 November 2013] PORTAS, M., 2011. The Portas Review. [Report]. London: Mary Portas 2011. PRENSKY, M., 2001. Digital Native. Wikipedia [online]. Available at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_native [Accessed 5 December 2013]. RAYMOND, M., 2003a. Tomorrow People: Future Consumers and How to Read Them. London: Financial Times Prentice Hall. RAYMOND, M., 2010b. The Trend Forecaster’s Handbook. London: Laurence King Publishing. RAYMOND, M., 2013c. LS:N Global Strange Days. [Lecture to Trend Briefing audience, Nottingham Broadway Cinema]. 24 April 2013. RAYMOND. M., 2013d. LS:N Global XX vs XY. [Lecture to Trend Briefing audience, Nottingham Broadway Cinema]. 23 October 2013. RICKEY, M., 2013. High-concept outlet from H&M influenced by fashion bloggers. The Guardian [online]. 8 March. Available at: http://www. theguardian.com/fashion/2013/mar/08/regent-street-retail-other-stories [Accessed 3 January 2014]
147.
148. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
RIVLIN, J., 2013. Warning: If you upset today’s ferocious online feminists, prepare for a flood of abuse. The Telegraph Blog. [online blog]. 30 August. Available at: http://blogs.telegraph.co.uk/technology/jackrivlin/100010138/warning-if-you-upset-todays-ferocious-online-feminists-prepare-fora-flood-of-abuse/ [Accessed 27 November 2013] RUDDICK, G., 2013a. UK undergoing biggest generational change in consumers since the 1960s, Tesco boss says. The Telegraph [online]. 22 September. Available at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/finance/newsbysector/retailandconsumer/10326982/UK-undergoing-biggest-generationalchange-in-consumers-since-the-1960s-Tesco-boss-says.html [Accessed 4 October 2013] RUDDICK, G., 2013b. Tablets and smartphones have changed Christmas shopping forever. The Telegraph [online]. 6 November. Available at: http:// www.telegraph.co.uk/finance/newsbysector/retailandconsumer/10434370/Tablets-and-smartphones-have-changed-Christmas-shopping-forever. html [Accessed 10 November 2013] SAUNTER, L., 2013a. Millenials: a trader generation. [online]. Available via: WGSN [Accessed 3 January 2014]. SAUNTER, L., 2013b. Learning from the greats: storytelling inspiration. [online]. Available via: WGSN [Accessed 28 December 2013] SEABRIGHT, P., 2012. The War of the Sexes: How conflict and Cooperation Have Shared Men and Women from Prehistory to the Present. New Jersey: Princeton University Press. SHEEHY. P., 2013. Trend Boutique -Online vs Offline. [Lecture to Trend Briefing audience, Nottingham Broadway Cinema]. 27 November 2013. SINCLAIR, C., 2013. The shape we’re in. Stella [online]. 13 November. Available at: http://bodybychristina.com/ShapeWeAreIn.pdf [Accessed 15 November, 2013] TATA, n.d. Establishing a Presence in Emerging Markets [online]. India: Tata Communications. Available at: http://www.tatacommunications.com/ downloads/providers/ GCS_WhitePaper-EmergingMarket_1211_US-WEBREADY-size_ v1.4.pdf [Accessed 28 November 2013] TANSLEY, I., 2013. 8 Reasons Why Men Are Trading In-Person Shopping for Online Retail [online]. America: Forbes. Available at: http://www.forbes. com/sites/iantansley/2013/10/24/8-reasons-why-men-are-trading-in-in-person-shopping-for-online-retail/ [Accessed 3 November 2013] TRONI, N., 2011. MILLENIALS: The Challenger Generation. Prosumer Report [online], 11. Available at: http://www.prosumer-report.com/blog/ wp-content/uploads/2011/04/MGv16no%20crops.pdf . [Accessed 17 October 2013]. . URBN, 2014. Company Profile [online]. Calofornia: Urban Outfitters. Available at: http://urbn.com/profile/ [Accessed 3 December 2013] VARGA, C., 2014. New workouts: sport emerging trend analysis. [online]. Available via: WSGN [Accessed 27 January 2014] WALLER, A., 2013. Trend Boutique -Online vs Offline. [Lecture to Trend Briefing audience, Nottingham Broadway Cinema]. 27 November 2013. WEISS, M., 2013. DIGITAL AND THE NEW CONSUMER. Prosumer Report [online] 16. Available at: http://www.prosumer-report.com/blog/ category/digital-and-the-new-consumer/ [Accessed 17 October 2013]. WGSN, 2013a. Store for Millenials: retail best practice. [online]. Available via: WGSN [Accessed 5 January 2014]. WGSN, 2014b. Start-up trend watch: community. [online]. Available via: WGSN [Accessed 5 January 2014]. WOODWARD, C., 2003. Marginal gains can give big results. Truth About Exercise [online blog]. August 18 Available at: http://truthaboutexercise. wordpress.com/2012/08/18/marginal-gains-can-give-big-results/ [Accessed 15 January 2014]
149.
150. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
Illustrations 151.
152. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
Figure 21: COOPER, C. 2013, Urban Outfitters Launch. [own image]
Illustrations Figure 1: SONICWATER, 2013, Laboratory for water sound images. [image online] Available at: http://www.themethodcase.com/video-sonicwater/ [Accessed 12 November 2013] Figure 2: SONICWATER, 2013, Laboratory for water sound images. [image online] Available at: http://www.sonicwater.org/sonicwater.html [Accessed 12 November 2013] Figure 3: SONICWATER, 2013, Laboratory for water sound images. [image online] Available at: http://www.sonicwater.org/sonicwater.html [Accessed 12 November 2013] Figure 4: Castella, T. 1970. High Street Nostalgia. [image online] Available at: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-16583070 [Accessed 3 January 2014] Figure 5: VOYATZIS, C. 2012, Razor Blades. [image online] Available at: http://www.yatzer.com/Yatzer-1900-The-Barber-Shop-Kiehls-Greece [Accessed 15 November 2013] Figure 6: VOYATZIS, C. 2012, Barber Brush. [image online] Available at: http://www.yatzer.com/Yatzer-1900-The-Barber-Shop-Kiehls-Greece [Accessed 15 November 2013] Figure 7: COOPER, C. 2013. Methodology [own image] Figure 8: STERNFELD, J, 1970. Strangers Passing. [image online] Available at: http://bintphotobooks.blogspot.co.uk/2011/12/who-looks-atsternfelds-work-distrusts.html [Accessed 3 January 2013] Figure 9: COOPER. C. 2014. Perceptual Map [own image] Figure 10: KOOPLES. 2011. Kooples Advert Venus and Jonas. [image online] Available at: http://www.thefashionisto.com/alexandre-cunha-jonaskesseler-for-the-kooples-fall-2011-campaign/ [Accessed 7 December 2013] Figure 11: STOCKDALE, J. 2011. Student Protests. [image online] Available at: http://www.janestockdale.co.uk/portfolio/documentary/#slide-1254 [Accessed 29 December 2013] Figure 12: ANONYMOUS. 1970. London Transport Woolwich. [image online] Available at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/23875695@ N06/6840779925/in/photolist-bquMxt-35GEFx-asdSBg-9Z75FM-5UrGYo-4gFMoD-hMXy1-hBBg3R-bK5hqZ-earmbR-aCtJkY-9N15uxbE4Dd4-7KVygg-iudheu-a5yimK-9RXyuW-anx4WE-5GFKfQ-gEgAth-bHnRWi-bmuW2s-ane8KR-bMpry8-dFfbAh-dEK8eo-9RanMz-j7LhCfdmcvtX-9RdEfA-fpUQZ5-dLFCPu-ibbBwR-eSzxZB-a5vaRj-bJeiPP-FntSj-dHzZ7B-h5SQJ7-9gXnMb-3g3bLk-3g7yFq-3g7ybC-5KbcwN-fJ57kv9io2LD-4k2So1-dPbv5q-afbsa7-pedFa-52jTQ3 [Accessed 28 December 2013] Figure 13: ANONYMOUS. [n.d.]. Harold MacMillan. [image online] Available at: http://www.pinterest.com/pin/439312138621179096/ [Accessed 28 December 2013]
Figure 22: KAT. 2013, Next Home Garden. [image online] Available at: http://www.apocketfullofdreams.co.uk/2013/06/event-next-home-garden. html [Accessed 16 November 2013] Figure 23: ANONYMOUS. 2013, Next Garden Centre. [image online] Available at: http://www.amateurgardening.com/home/fashion-chain-nextopens-first-garden-centre/ [Accessed 16 November 2013] Figure 24: HALLE, O, V. 2013. The Shanghai Collection Autumn /Winter 2013. [image online] Available at: http://oliviavonhalle.com/lookbook/ autumn-winter-2013 [Accessed 18 December 2013] Figure 25: ANONYMOUS. 2012. Women Style. [image online] Available at: http://styletrove.tumblr.com/post/18242335094/her-style-is-perfection [Accessed 7 October 2013] Figure 26: HALLE, O, V. 2013. The Shanghai Collection Autumn /Winter 2013. [image online] Available at: http://oliviavonhalle.com/lookbook/ autumn-winter-2013 [Accessed 18 December 2013] Figure 27: KEMPLEN, T. 2012, Russian Pavilion QR Codes. [image online] Available at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/tony_kemplen/7983173798/ in/photostream/ [Accessed 13 December 2013] Figure 28: MODE,C. 2014, Juliett Kuczynska Stockholm Street Style. [image online] Available at: http://carolinesmode.com/stockholmstreetstyle/ art/292276/juliett_kuczynska/ [Accessed 28 January 2014] Figure 29: KOOPLES. 2012. Kooples Advert. [image online] Available at: http://www.thegoldtigerblog.com/2011/09/nouvelle-campagne-kooplesf-w-2012.html Figure 30: BOY LONDON. 2014. BOY London Advert 2014. [image online] Available at: http://boy-london.com/ [Accessed 5 January 2014] Figure 31: THE KOOPLES. 2012. The Kooples Magazine. [image online] Available at: http://www.thekooples.co.uk/ [Accessed 7 November 2013] Figure 32: ANONYMOUS. 2013. Mahani: Fashion Concept Store, Dubai. [image online] Available at: http://trendvm.blogspot.co.uk/2013/05/ mahani-fashion-concept-store-dubai.html [Accessed 25 November 2013] Figure 33: KENDRA. 2013, Street Style My Showroom. [image online] Available at: http://kendaatlarge.tumblr.com/post/40336303585/myshowroom-friday [Accessed 3 December 2013] Figure 34: MODE, C. 2014. Simona Stockholm Street Style. [image online]. Available at: http://carolinesmode.com/stockholmstreetstyle/?p=3 [Accessed 28 January 2014] Figure 35: KARMALI, S. 2013. Sui He for Mercedes-Benz Spring/Summer 2014. [image online] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/ news/2013/06/20/carine-roitfeld-sui-he-mercedes-benz-advert-campaign [Accessed 20 December 2013] Figure 36: ANONYMOUS. 2013. Women Model. [image online]. Available at: http://habitualbliss.tumblr.com/post/27435155404 [Accessed 18 December 2013]
Figure 14: COOPER, C. 2014. Infographics. [own image]
Figure 37: DAIKANYAMA. [n.d.]. Toujours. [image online]. Available at: http://www.notsohardwork.com/store/photo_toujours.html [Accessed 8 December 2013]
Figure 15: WELCH, D. 2010, Material World. [image online] Available at: http://designspiration.net/image/28063632702/ [Accessed 7 December 2013]
Figure 38: GHETTY. [N.D.]. Elle Rebrands Feminism. [image online] Available at: http://www.elleuk.com/star-style/news/elle-rebrandsfeminism#image=1 [Accessed 16 December 2013]
Figure 16: ALEXANDER, E. 2013, Inside & Other Stories’ Regent Street Store. [image online] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2013/03/08/other-stories-opens---regent-street-store-opening--clothing-pictures [Accessed 29 October 2013]
Figure 39: PANTENE. 2013. Whipit Campaign. [image online] Available at: http://www.pantene.co.uk/pages/index.aspx [Accessed 7 January 2014]
Figure 17: ALL SAINTS. 2011. All Saints Flag Ship Store London. [image online]. Available at: http://scw-parlezvousfrancais.blogspot.co.uk/ [Accessed 15 January 2014] Figure 18: ADDIDAS. 2012. Interactive Window Shopping. [image online]. Available at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ZXucLUfh0U [Accessed 7 December 2013] Figure 19: ADDIDAS. 2012. Interactive Window Shopping. [image online]. Available at: http://www.soleobsessed.com/adidas-pilots-new-windowshopping-experience-of-the-future-at-nurnberg-neo-store/ [Accessed 7 December 2013] Figure 20: URBAN OUTFFITERS. 2013. Work in Progress. [image online] Available at: https://www.facebook.com/photo. php?fbid=389654224498672&set=a.389653447832083.1073741835.294037934060302&type=3&theater [Accessed 11 November 2013]
Figure 40: DOVE. 2014. Real Beauty Campaign. [image online] Available at: http://realbeauty2010.wordpress.com/ [Accessed 8 December] Figure 41: M&S. 2013. Britains Leading Ladies. [image online] Available at: http://niamhkelly.wordpress.com/2013/08/20/ms-introduce-britainsleading-ladies/ [Accessed 8 November 2013] Figure 42: SWEATY BETTY, 2014. Sweaty Betty Joey S/S 2014 campaign . [image online]. Available at: http://www.sweatybetty.com/meet-themodels-artlmeetthemodels/?slider=2 [Accessed 8 January 2014] Figure 43: SWEATY BETTY, 2014. Sweaty Betty – fit is the new it S/S 2014 campaign . [image online]. Available at: http://www.sweatybetty.com/ [Accessed 8 January 2014] Figure 44: ANONYMOUS, 2013. The Plank. . [image online]. Available at: http://weheartit.com/entry/96387524/dashboard?context_ user=tatjanaprincess [Accessed 8 January 2014]
153.
154. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
Middle left: Figure 45: RAGNHILD. [n.d.] Strawberry. [image online]. Available at: http://weheartit.com/entry/96526535/via/Ragnhild97 [Accessed 7 January 2014] Bottom left: Figure 46: JULKA. 2013. Nike Free Trainers. [image online]. Available at: http://xbe-strongx.tumblr.com/post/73959406326 [Accessed 7 January 2014] Bottom right: Figure 47: NIKE, 2013. Nike Women. [image online]. Available at: http://www.tumblr.com/search/nike+women [Accessed 7 January 2014] Figure 48: ROSE, I. 2014. Shiruetto. [image online]. Available at: http://indiaroseblog.blogspot.co.uk/2014/01/shiruetto.html [Accessed 18 January 2014]
Figure 66: RALPH LAUREN. 2013. Spring/Summer 2013. [image online]. Available at: http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/ralph-lauren-springsummer-2013/ [Accessed 3 January 2014] Figure 67: ANONYMOUS. 2013. Chris Brown Working. [image online]. Available at: http://kuchenbaeckerin.tumblr.com/post/70421303520/chrisbrown [Accessed 3 January 2014] Middle top: Figure 68: ANONYMOUS. 2012. Male Cycling. [image online]. Available at: http://thisideaofsurrender.tumblr.com/post/23249083371 [Accessed 23 December 2013] Top right: Figure 69: COOPER,C. Young Professional. [own image]
Figure 49: DEAN, A. 2013. Windswept. [image online]. Available at: http://wise-rabbit-says.blogspot.co.uk/2013/08/windswept.html [Accessed 28 December 2013]
Middle right: Figure 70: WANTFUL. 2013. Male Belongings. [image online]. Available at: http://www.pinterest.com/pin/334392341053958471/ [Accessed 30 December 2013]
Bottom page Figure 50: DEAN, A. 2013. 3rd Year. [image online]. Available at: http://wise-rabbit-says.blogspot.co.uk/2013/12/3rd-year.html [Accessed 28 December 2013]
Bottom left: Figure 71: ANONYMOUS. 2013. Hudson Whiskey. [image online]. Available at: http://www.southernspirits.com/the-long-wait-it-over-hudsonwhiskey-is-at-southern-spirits [Accessed 3 January 2014]
Figure 51: MODE, C. 2014. Domenico Lovine Stockholm Street Style. [image online]. Available at: http://carolinesmode.com/stockholmstreetstyle/?p=3 [Accessed 28 January 2014]
Bottom right: Figure 72: COOPER,C. 2014, Young Professional. [own image]
Figure 52: HELLO MR. 2013. Hello Mr Issue 1. [image online] Available at: http://www.gratefulgrapefruit.com/2013/08/12/printed-matters-6hello-mr/ [Accessed 17 November 2013].
Figure 73: COOPER, C. 2014, Archetypes. [own image]
Figure 53: GRANT, P. 2013, Smart Wear. [image online]. Available at: http://menstyle1.com/post/74720948308 [Accessed 7 January 2014] Figure 54: ALAP, E. 2012. Elias Petrakis. [image online]. Available at: http://kuchenbaeckerin.tumblr.com/post/26617412334/elias-petrakis [Accessed 8 December 2013] Figure 55: BRUCCOLER, G. 2004, Luca Calvani. [image online] Available at: http://kuchenbaeckerin.tumblr.com/post/36747088904/luca-calvani [Accessed 8 December 2013] Figure 56: DVORA. 2014. Teo van den Broeke. [image online] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/spy/street-chic/2014/london-collections-men/ gallery/1088522 [Accessed 20 January 2014] Figure 57: ANONYMOUS . 2013, Chris Brown. [image online]. Available at: http://kuchenbaeckerin.tumblr.com/post/61766619910/chris-brown [Accessed 28 December 2013]. Figure 58: BINDEL, P. [n.d.] Interiors. [image online]. Available at: http://www.linkdeco.se/artists/131/albums/469 [Accessed 28 December 2013] Figure 59: COOPER, C. 2013. Young Professional. [own image] Figure 60: TIMBERLAND. 2013. This is Your Podium Advert. [image online] Available at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xPqpcfTNmbc [Accessed 16 December 2013] Figure 61: ANONYMOUS. 2013. Man Adventure Camper. [image online] Available at: http://www.pinterest.com/equipntrip/ [Accessed 16 December 2013] Figure 62: ANONYMOUS. 2013. Adventure Man Calle Strand. [image online] Available at: http://kuchenbaeckerin.tumblr.com/image/63264340935 [Accessed 16 December 2013] Middle left: Figure 63: ANONYMOUS. [n.d.]. Hiking Man. [image online] Available at: http://www.pinterest.com/pin/334392341053957727/ [Accessed 18 December 2013] Bottom left: Figure 64: BURCH, B. [n.d.]. Playing Xbox Together. [image online] Available at: http://www.pinterest.com/pin/334392341053957719/ [Accessed 4 January 2014] Bottom right: Figure 65: ANONYMOUS. [n.d.]. Male Belongings. [image online] Available at: http://www.pinterest.com/pin/138133913543727574/ [Accessed 18 December 2013]
155.
Figure 74: KOOPLES. 2012. Kooples Advert Johan and Mikaela. [image online] Available at: http://misterhall.wordpress.com/ Figure 75: MODE, C. 2014. Marco Stockholm Street Style. [image online] Available at: http://carolinesmode.com/stockholmstreetstyle/art/291566/ marco/ [Accessed 17 December 2013] Figure 76: ATHERTON, J. 2013. High Street Empty Shops. [image online] Available at: http://metro.co.uk/2013/08/19/high-street-show-smallsigns-of-recovery-as-empty-shops-rate-falls-3929320/ [Accessed 6 January 2014] Figure 77: BISHOP, K. 2011. Sales Fall. [image online] Available at: http://www.professionaljeweller.com/article-10239-sales-fall-predicted-forhigh-street-retailers/ [Accessed 6 January 2014] Figure 78: MODE, C. 2014. Lisa Olsson. [image online] Available at: http://carolinesmode.com/stockholmstreetstyle/art/292379/lisa_olsson/ [Accessed 17 December 2013] Figure 79: JOHN LEWIS. 2013. Bear and the Hare 2013 Christmas Advert. [image online] Available at: http://www.parlophone.co.uk/releases/ somewhere-only-we-know/ [Accessed 3 January 2013] Figure 80: MARKS AND SPENCERS. 2013. David Gandy Christmas Advert 2013. [image online] Available at: http://people.co.uk/marks-andspencer-john-lewis-christmas-advert-2013/ [Accessed 7 January 2014] Figure 81: MARKS AND SPENCERS. 2013. Rosie Huntington-Whitely Christmas Advert 2013. [image online] Available at: http://people.co.uk/ marks-and-spencer-john-lewis-christmas-advert-2013/ [Accessed 7 January 2014] Figure 82: CORRONS, A. 2012. Hugo Boss Love Story. [image online] Available at: http://mesvitrinesnyc.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/hugo-boss-lovestory.html [Accessed 15 January 2014] Fig 79: Hugo Boss Love Story, 2012 Figure 83: UNENO, A. 2012. Hugo Boss Love Story. [image online] Available at: http://annwrittennotes.com/tag/the-louvre/ [Accessed 15 January 2014] Figure 84: WESTWOOD, V and McLaren, M. 1971. 430 Kings Road. [image online] Available at: http://www.viviennewestwood.co.uk/w/the-story/ kings-road [Accessed 8 January 2014] Figure 85: WESTWOOD, V. A. 1993. Anglomania A/W. [image online] Available at: http://www.viviennewestwood.co.uk/w/the-story/anglomania [Accessed 8 January 2014] Figure 86: LEVI. 2012. Go Forth Campaign Tough As Your Spirit 2012. [image online] Available at: http://auroramag.wordpress.com/2012/07/11/ levis-time-to-go-forth/ [Accessed 5 January 2014] Figure 87: LEVI. 2012. Go Forth Campaign We Are All Workers 2012. [image online] Available at: http://www.tomorrowstarted.com/category/ design/page/8 [Accessed 5 January 2014]
156.
XXvsXY
XXvsXY
Figure 88: LEVI. 2012. Go Forth Campaign Now Is Our Time 2012. [image online] Available at: http://www.tomorrowstarted.com/category/design/ page/8 [Accessed 5 January 2014] Figure 89: REID, D. 2013. Folklore Store London. [image online] Available at: http://thisispaper.com/Folklore-Store [Accessed 7 January 2014] Figure 90: UNKOWN. 2011. Jack Wills Bath [image online] Available at: http://www.myretailmedia.com/blog/4941/jack_wills_to_double_us_ stores_in_supersize_expansion.php [Accessed 7 January 2014] Figure 91: HOLL, J. 2010, Arkwright Building Nottingham. [image online] Available at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/75827322@N00/5110705782/ [Accessed 3 December 2013] Figure 92: COOPER,C. 2013. Berlin. [own image] Figure 93: KLING, E. 2011. H&M Collection. [image online] Available at: http://www.elin-kling.com/projects/hm/ [Accessed 5 January 2014] Figure 94: KOOPLES. 2011. Kooples Advert Celyn and Bjoern. [image online] Available at: http://d1models.blogspot.co.uk/2011/03/celyn-smythin-kooples-springsummer.html [Accessed 7 December 2013]
157.
158. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
1. appendix 1 159.
160. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
Next interview Your Questions Answered: Project Title: FCP Research Report What is the project about? This project is being undertaken as part of the Fashion Communication and Promotion degree at Nottingham Trent with results of this research actively being used to gain understanding on the new consumer is on the high street, looking into different gender types. Who is running this study? As a third year student I, Charlotte Cooper, have been briefed on ethical guidelines for research activities and am undertaking the project with the guidance of University tutors. Why have I been chosen to take part? I want to gain industry opinions on the high street stores on whether you have noticed a difference in the way people now shop, as well identifying whether you believe that there is a new consumer. Having an industry opinion will help me have a better understanding on the consumers we are seeing today. What do you want me to do? The purpose of this study is to just ask interview questions to you on the industry you are involved in. This interview should take no longer than thirty minutes of your time. Do I have to take part? Your participation is entirely voluntary. No one else will be informed of your participation or non-participation.At any subsequent point, you can withdraw from the project and if you wish, withdraw any of the information that you have given so far (through interview or other). You do not have to give any reason for withdrawing. What will happen to the information I provide? In order to keep a record of the interviews we would like to tape the discussion and have transcribed into text. We will then analyse the information and feed it into our results. At the end of the study all the tapes, transcripts and any other information collected will be destroyed. How will you protect my confidentiality and anonymity. The tape and transcript will only be handled by me, in line with data protection principles and our approved research protocol. Hard copies of research notes are kept in locked cabinets, and electronic files are kept on password protected computers which are not accessible to any other person. You will not be named or otherwise identified in any document or medium that is available to anyone. All evidence used in subsequent publications will be anonymised – I will use a pseudonym or a descriptor’. I will exercise all possible care to ensure that you cannot be identified by the way I write up my findings. What are the possible disadvantages and risks in taking part? The main cost to you will be the time needed to be interviewed .We are confident that the arrangements described above will prevent any of your information being shared with anyone. For this reason, we believe that the risk of detriment is very low. What are the possible benefits? We hope that you will find participation interesting, and enjoyable – gaining interesting perspectives on questions that you might have never thought of. What will happen to the results? The results will be used as part of my university assessed work, in my FCP Research Report. It will be read by my tutors and be made available to the external examiner, who is an academic from another university. How can I find out more about this project and its results? By contacting: charlottelouisecooper@outlook.com
161.
162. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
Next interview questions 1. What is your job title and what does the role entail? 2. Who would you say are you current competitors? 3. Who is your main age range of people that you target? How does this translate to people that populate your stores? 4. Would you want to target younger consumer? Or do you want to target just that age range? 5. Who is your current consumer/ what are they like? What’s the percentage between male and female? 6. Next is obviously doing really well in the current market considering a lot of high street stores are closing, compared to your competitors - why do you think this is?
Next interview Transcript Location: Date: Time: Duration: C.C: M.P:
London, Next 17/11/2013 11.30am 35 minutes Charlotte Cooper Megan Price
C.C: What is your job title and what does the role entail? M.P: I’m a merchandiser and my job is to ensure that the stock is in the right place, at the right time, in the right quantities. C.C: Who would you say are you current competitors?
7. How important is it to have your Next website?
M.P: Urm (pause), I guess it’s different because you have a competitor and then you have people that you look up to for inspiration. Competitors that I think would be is supermarkets, as they taking a lot of our sales, especially like on the basis clothing, like Tesco and Sainsbury’s. People tend to think they are cheaper but I think we are relatively well priced compared to them.
8. Could you do more with engaging online and offline consumers? E.g. click and collect
C.C: Would you say Marks and Spencer’s are competitors?
9. Are most of your sales through in-store or online?
M.P: Well you would think so but we don’t like to think that Mark’s and Spencer are competitors, but in reality they are. Places like Zara, I’d also say Mango and again they probably wouldn’t want me to say this but H&M, especially for workwear.
10. Would you ever think of introducing technology more in store? For example, iPads, moving imagery, sensory smells 11. As for the visual merchandising of the store, how much do you think this influences your consumer to buy? 12. There has been much debate on the size on mannequins, is this something Next would consider? 13. Do you design the store in a certain way for your consumer? Is it a standard layout or does it differentiate from store to store? 14. Is there a difference in the way males and females shop in-store? For instant do you know if females or male shop more offline or online? 15. Do the female changing rooms get used more frequently rather than the males? 16. What do you think makes the customer buy? 17. In what ways do you feel consumers demand for product has changed since starting Next? For example do you think fast fashion is due to consumer demand? 18. Do you think your consumers are now more ethically aware now when they buy? 19. What marketing tactics do you adopt to ensure the products on your racks will satisfy customer demand at that time? for example how do you track what your current consumer wants? 20. What ways in which you promote works best with your consumer in terms of marketing? 21. Have you seen any effect with your consumers now you are using social media? 22. Would you say you have loyal customers?
C.C: Who is your main age range of people that you target? How does this translate to people that populate your stores? M.P: So are you saying if you target 35-year-olds but actually 55-year-old come in to store? C.C: Yes M.P: So I think the target range is probably early 30’s up to mid 40’s. C.C: Would you want to target younger consumer? Or do you want to target just that age range? M.P: I think we are trying to become more appealing to the younger age group by bringing in higher end fashion items and pieces but we’ve got to be careful and tailor it to the next customer, we’ve basically got to find a trend and translate the trend into something that she would understand – she being the next customer. But if you want to know, I think it’s called the demographics, then most of our customers are young working families. C.C: This was my next question actually on who is your current consumer/ what are they like? What’s the percentage between male and female? M.P: We’ve actually got all this information at work, as we do a lot of market research. Definitely more women than men I would say its 70 / 30 ratio – definitely more women. Young families and young professional I would also say. C.C: Why do you think men don’t come into store? M.P: Urm (pause) I think with Next if the women is shopping with her baby, the women is usually buy something for the man. Men come in if they need something but not actually to look around, if they need a suit. Men don’t really like to go shopping. C.C: Next is obviously doing really well in the current market considering a lot of high street stores are closing, compared to your competitors - why do you think this is? I know Marks and Spencer’s aren’t doing very well currently, so why do you think next is doing well?
24. How do you see Next evolving in the future?
M.P: Urm, well one thing is that we are refitting our stores to make them more appealing to customers, so that is a nicer shopping experience when they walk through the store. That is our target at the moment to get all the stores refitted and updated really, its now more about the shopping experience rather than the environment; this is what we are trying to do. They are also including coffee shops in stores, like costa.
25. What do you think of the future of the high street?
C.C: So you are obviously refitting stores to make them more appealing, what exactly is being done?
23. How do you track the loyalty? Would you ever consider a loyalty card e.g. a Nectar card?
M.P: It’s all to do with the lighting and space of the store to make it feel more open and light. The CEO was like telling us all about it, giving us an example of one of the stores and how they design the architecture so that you felt like there was more lights coming into the store, you know in some stores it gives you a headache with the lighting, I guess we want it to be open and light. And also making the store looks smarter with chandeliers and lights.
163.
164. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
C.C: How important is it to have your Next website? Obviously places like Primark don’t have a website, yet they do so well.
C.C: Is there a difference in the way males and females shop in-store? For instant do you know if females or male shop more offline or online?
M.P: Yes, so basically we’ve got the directory which includes the website, so directory is what we refer to online as well as the book. They we have retail sales and retail sales are growing because of the new space because of new stores that we are opening. But retail is growing at a slower rate than directory. I think directory we are +8% on last year sales. You can find all this information on the website, if you go onto next corporate. I think in retail we are +1.2% on retail sales from last year. Most of this comes from new space. So I guess we see growth from new space and growth from online sales.
M.P: I’m not completely sure however like I said women usually buy for the men. I do believe that men shop online more.
C.C: Could you do more with engaging online and offline consumers? E.g. click and collect
C.C: Do the female changing rooms get used more frequently rather than the males?
M.P: We encourage customers to collect online order from the store, as they will be more likely to purchase something when they are in store.
M.P: I would say yes
C.C: So there is a click and collect option?
C.C: What do you think makes the customer buy?
M.P: Yes and they also have free next delivery from store if you order from 10pm.
M.P: Urm (pause) we have excellent quality value for money, urm, yeah and predictable we know the customer well. They expect everything to be there when they go into store, don’t expect a new thing.
C.C: So that’s you influence your customers then? M.P: Yes we prefer them to us this, so that they don’t have to pay for delivery. C.C: Are most of your sales through in-store or online? M.P: Online, I don’t know proportionately though. Online is definitely growing, wait let me just check my sheets. Sorry, most of sales come from retail, however directory is growing at a faster rate so that’s the book and online as whatever is in the book is online. C.C: Are you worried that the directory might take over the sales from in store with the way it is increasing? M.P: Yeah I feel like this could take over. C.C: Would you ever think of introducing technology more in store? For example, iPads, moving imagery, sensory smells. I’ve actually just been researching into sensory smells and apparently if vanillas is used it increases the sale. M.P: I think, this is just for display reasons I know they have the scented fragrances around, I don’t know whether they actively make the store smell nice but it is a good idea to maybe include this. And also including IPAD would also be good idea, could quickly order things in store when you see something, or check if things are in stock. Even in the home department you could have an iPad where you could somehow design a room or something. C.C: As for the visual merchandising of the store, how much do you think this influences your consumer to buy? M.P: I’m not necessary involved in the visual merchandising side. However in-store when we design a range we have different stories in which we have to fit the clothes into. So then when you go into store we have these different stories set up in different areas of the shop, so for instant you might work in and on the left hand-side, like at the moment we have a story called moody darks at the moment all about purples and blues and deeper dark warm colours. I guess by grouping colours together helps customers to pick outfits out easier, as then everything goes together.
M.P: Also going back to that point when you said that most people turn left when they go into store. We also look at which story is going to take the most money, and make the most money so then will position that accordingly. They tend to put this story at the front of the store, as it’s the first thing you see, you’re more likely to pick something up.
C.C: In what ways do you feel consumers demand for product has changed since starting Next? For example do you think fast fashion is due to consumer demand, have you noticed any changes since starting? M.P: We are changing the way we operate the directory as we feel like customers are becoming more volatile and shopping more at the spur of the moment, impulsively. So because the weather is so unpredictable, it has a massive influence. For example, if the weather is rubbish, sales fall and vice versa. You see massive peaks of demand depending on the weather. But because customers are becoming more impulsive we are now launching mini mailers, so we have the directory. So we normally launch two big directories per season and now we are going to be launching two mini mailers to catch the peaks in demand when the customers buy more impulsively. C.C: Do you think your consumers are now more ethically aware now when they buy? M.P: Yes I would say so. C.C: What marketing tactics do you adopt to ensure the products on your racks will satisfy customer demand at that time? For example how do you track what your current consumer wants at that time? What kind of primary research to you use to know who your current consumer is? M.P: I guess they look at what people are searching for online, if you see something is selling well we will try and get back on it and get some more stock in. C.C: What ways in which you promote works best with your consumer in terms of marketing? Is it more build boards ect? What marketing helps reach the consumer? M.P: I think they need to start doing some more mailing to help reach the consumer. I don’t think Next tend to do much advertising, they don’t’ do much TV adverts. I’ve seen that they’ve got a double-sided spread in the Newspaper. I guess with the Next consumer, they know what they are getting, so advertising to them isn’t something we consider a priority.
C.C: There has been much debate on the size on mannequins, is this something Next would consider? Debenhams have recently introduced this concept in their stores.
C.C: Have you seen any effect with your consumers now you are using social media? I notice you have a Twitter; does it help engage your consumer?
M.P: Yeah, I was thinking about this as in directory and online when we send samples off for photo-shoots, all the models used aren’t exactly sized 0 which you can see on the website, I mean they are slim but not size zero, compared to other stores. I’m not sure Next would want to make a really big thing about using size fourteen mannequins; I don’t think that they would. I think M&S are trying these things at the moment, like the real women campaign really isn’t working. I don’t really think we need to change that.
M.P: You think it should, but the Next customer is not really that way inclined. I think definitely emailing would help increase demand, but not sure whether Twitter appeals to the customer.
C.C: I know we have briefly touched upon this but do you design the store in a certain way for your consumer? As apparently when you go into a store you usually turn left. So is it a standard layout or does it differentiate from store to store?
M.P: I think they do on Facebook.
M.P: Basically we grade our stores from A- E grade basically depending on how profitable they are, so then obviously the A grade stores are the biggest stores, offering the full range, down to E grade stores, like they the Leamington store, they offer the smallest range. But within that we have stories, like I mention earlier, so every store will have the same stories, but they will have less. So the A grade stores will have absolutely everything, whereas the E grade stores will only have a couple of pieces from each story. It’s not like Topshop which look at shoppers in the area and they tailor what they put in store depending on the people within the area, its very geographically in the way they do it. C.C: Why don’t Next do this? M.P: I think it’s because the Next customer is quite predictable to be honest and they are quite safe. They like to know they can go into another store and see the same thing. They wouldn’t like it if they went in every week and there was something different.
C.C: Do you launch competitions on your social media for customers?
C.C: Would you say you have loyal customers? So like you said they are always returning M.P: Yes, definitely. That’s why we should target younger customers, because the customers are loyal but if we can attract them at a younger age then you can hook them in earlier on and they will keep coming back. But it’s quite hard you can’t appeal to everyone can you? C.C: How do you track the loyalty? Would you ever consider a loyalty card e.g. a Nectar card? M.P: No, I don’t know why they don’t do it. I think Next aren’t very good at offering promotions, so we only ever have mid season sale and end of season sale. I don’t think its something Next would do to offer insensitive such as a loyalty card.
165.
166. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
C.C: Is that because your target consumer has a lot of disposable income? M.P: Yeah, customer usually has quite a lot of money so don’t need to have incentives. I think they are currently offering £10 promotion online. They like people to sign up to have a directory account. C.C: How do you see Next evolving in the future? M.P: They are opening more out of town stores; they are calling them destination stores where they will offer home, womenswear, menswear and kidswear. They are trialling a garden centre up north; the plan is to open these superstores with a coffee shop in there as well. C.C: Do you think Next will want to stay on the high-street or will they move to more superstores? M.P: I think they will definitely keep their high street stores, but when they think of expanding they think of out of town stores but they will keep their high street stores. More opportunity to have both, especially with superstores, as there is more space there and customers will probably spend longer there. C.C: What do you think of the future of the high street? M.P: Definitely online sales are growing more, I think most people will be seeing that across the board that online sales are growing more than retail sales. This being said, online website should be really on top. So I think that’s why we are doing so well as you can have free next day delivery. I think the customers will also want more flexibility, so more click and collect services. Collection hubs will probably be the future, where you can order something from any store and collect your good’s from these hubs. I don’t think the high street is dying off, I think its more if you can offer the shopping experience the customers want then you will survive. I think the stores that haven’t lasted throughout the recession haven’t kept up with how modern day shoppers shop. People don’t want to go into a run down old stores, do they? It becomes more a day out; you want to go into a nice environment. C.C: Do you think the modern shopper now is more aware? As from the recession customers seem so much more aware of what they are buying. M.P: It is easier to now compare prices isn’t it now online; you can now shop around easier online. To draw them into store you need to have a good in store environment, more about the experience.
167.
168. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
2. appendix 2 169.
170. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
urban Outfitters questions 1. Who is your target consumer in terms of age, gender and style? 2. Are you aware of the links between footfall and purchase, and have you noticed any changes since the launch of the online site? 3. Currently, you are expanding your stores, but how do your online and in-store sales compare currently? And why? 4. Do you get a lot of repeat custom, and how do you track this? 5. How does Urban Outfitters try to differentiate itself from its competitors on the high street in terms of visuals, marketing and experience? 6. Which stores inspire Urban Outfitters? Are there any ‘innovators’ within retail that the company aspires to emulate? 7. How do you try to engage the consumer in store? How do you try to create an experience? 8. For the launch party of this store, you created such an event with the tattoo parlour, drinks, music and photo booth etcetera – why did UO think this was important? 9. UO used social media to track the development of the store, was this a way of creating a buzz around its launch? 10. What would you say are the most effective tools you use to attract and engage the consumer? 11. How do you track what your consumer wants? 12.What plans do UO’s have for the future, and can you foresee the increased digitalisation of the retail landscape changing UO’s stores and method of interacting with the consumer?
171.
172. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
C.C: How does Urban Outfitters try to differentiate itself from its competitors on the high street in terms of visuals, marketing and experience?
Urban outfitters Transcript Location: Date: Time: Duration: C.C: T.T:
Nottingham, Urban Outfitters 06/12/2013 9.00am 19 minutes Charlotte Cooper Tasha Tully
C.C: Who is your target consumer in terms of age, gender and style? T.T: I think we are probably like (pause), I say its 18-35 but because of the broad sort of stuff we sell we hit a really wide range of customers. The Urban group as a whole, Urban Outfitters is the 18-35 but then you’ve got Anthropologie, which is for your 35 year old plus. So within the Urban Group they say our target age range is 18-35 but I reckon we hit a lot broader than that because of what we sell. C.C: And what kind of style does the typical consumer? T.T: I want to say hipsters, I don’t know if that’s the correct term to use, this is a lot of our influence on the style from other decades, which is where I guess our heritage started from in store. I’d also say young, I don’t even want to say on-trend, because I feel like we are not necessary on-trend. I feel that the people that come here don’t need to be told what to wear, they know about fashion, they’re are bloggers, they’re in to that that more quirky fashion C.C: Do you feel a lot of customers are blogger? T.T: I used to work for Urban in East London and we were really big on the blogging community and Urban Outfitters promotes that sort of thing quite a lot. We get that a lot of that sort of customer, the young fashion students, the bloggers.
T.T: Look around, I feel like we are so different from everyone else. Firstly of all we sell a lifestyle, we sell the home wares and medias as well as apparel. One of the main things about Urban is that they like to have their stores in old buildings. They’ve only just started probably over the past year or so, putting shops inside of centres, Stratford being the first. They like the character features of the building; they like to use old buildings as they can do more with it. But that’s basically why they ripped this store to its basic; you’ve got the beams and pipes on show. They don’t like it to look clean and white, they like it to be rustic. Which I think that makes us stand out. People come in and ask, “Are you not finished building? and I’m like “no this is how we want it look” with the concrete floors and concrete beams and stuff. Think that sets us aside, we don’t want to be like everyone else, we want to stand out. Even the clothing we sell, we are on trend but then we’re not on trend, we don’t sell the same stuff like you see in Topshop and River Island, we do have a different customer, people know what to wear, we don’t merchandise we outfit build. Before I came here, I worked at River Island working in visual merchandising for 18 months and there its very much you have to merchandise how someone would wear it, so if someone came in and saw a top and bottom that’s how they would wear it. Whereas here, you walk around and pick something where you wouldn’t necessary have to merchandise a pattern next to a plain top for instant, you could put a pattern next to a pattern. There is no set rules so there is a lot freedom in the merchandising, because we feel like people will come in and they will know what to wear, they know how to dress themselves, other than us telling them how to dress. C.C: Which stores inspire Urban Outfitters? Are there any ‘innovators’ within retail that the company aspires to emulate? T.T: It’s hard to tell, as we are obviously an American brand. I just feel like there is nothing like us on the high street. I think people feel that people inspire to be Urban Outfitters, rather than us inspiring to be anyone else. The only other store I can think which is vaguely similar to Urban Outfitters is called ‘Joy’, is based more in London – I’ve only every seen it London. Its similar to Urban in the instinct it sells a lifestyle, it sells the housewares items. I feel like we are unique on the high street, there is no one like us on the high street. C.C: How do you try to engage the consumer in store? How do you try to create an experience? T.T: We have got a whole Urban Concept its called the ‘Four Guiding Principles ‘ its basically about the customer journey through the store. So when we do the store set up and when doing merchandising we’ve got to think of the customer’s journeys and when they walk through the store, if there is any point in which they might stop and consider their purchase. So like we do a lot of merchandising on fixtures that are 360 so every angle you look there would be clothing, homeware of accessories. Our concept on the ‘Four Guiding Principles” that’s the first thing we train out staff on, its just talking us through the customer journey and how we want the customer to view us, basically from when they walk towards us on the street to when they leave the store. C.C: For the launch party of this store, you created such an event with the tattoo parlour, drinks, music and photo booth etcetera – why did UO think this was important?
C.C: As Urban Outfitters have a blog as well, don’t they? T.T: Yeah we’ve got an Urban Outfitters blog. C.C: Are you aware of the links between footfall and purchase, and have you noticed any changes since the launch of the online site? I understand you haven’t worked here for long T.T: Obviously as I worked for Urban in London, I don’t feel like our customers necessary uses the website a lot, we don’t do the customer net thing so its not like they shop online instead of in store, they come in store. Because of our brand we get that different experience of coming into store, its obviously a lifestyle, its quite a cool concept of the store and because of that people are more interested in coming in and seeing what we are doing. We are not like anything on the high street, we’ve obviously ripped it apart, we’ve got beams on show, not like River Island or Topshop as it’s a clean white store, but because of the way we merchandise and our brand concept, people come in store and don’t necessary need to shop online. The web store, definitely doesn’t affect footfall, people come here, as they are interested to see what we are done. C.C: Currently, you are expanding your stores, but how do your online and in-store sales compare currently? And why? I know you have touched upon this T.T: A lot of people are purchasing online in Nottingham, as there wasn’t a store as Birmingham was the nearest one. Over the next six months they’ve got Leicester opening and now because Nottingham has now opened, we’ve now got a biggest present in the midlands. Now we’ve got them locally, its going to be more accessible, for people to come into store, so customers will be less likely to shop online. Whereas before, you could only really go when to Urban Outfitters when you were in London or Birmingham, now its going to be more accessible, so footfall will get higher form this.
T.T: We like to connect with the community and get people really involved. Obviously we haven’t been opened very long and once we are we want to do a in store event every month and get local DJ’s and local artists just to create loads of hype around the brand, obviously its new to the area, we want people to talk about us and know we are here, I think personally it was for get people to talk about us. We had a massive queue for the store opening, which started at 5 in the afternoon, people were already here at 3pm, just because people were not just intrigued to see what was going to be inside the store but also to see what we were putting on, like the DJ’s - people are into following the DJ sort scene, people come to listen to that and get temporary tattoos. I can’t think of anywhere that would have have a temporary tattoo parlour and photo booth; we just want to get everyone and the community involved. C.C: You also have a gaming station downstairs? T.T: Yeah, we like people to come here and spend time here, if someone was in the store for half an hour we would never be like “can you go”. If someone wants to come in here and spend two hours here, we are happy. If they want to sit on the sofa and read a book, or if they want to go on games console then they can, we want people to stay in the store, hopefully it will end up in a purchase. We feel that the atmosphere that they get when they come here is really important on making them stay in the store and getting them to come back, which is why we’ve got the book tables, the games consoles, they can listen to vinyl’s, listen to music on the iPads. We just want people to get people involved in what we are doing and what we are selling. C.C: UO used social media to track the development of the store, was this a way of creating a buzz around its launch?
C.C: Do you have a loyalty card to help track customers?
T.T: Yeah, so people could basically see what was going on. Also Amsterdam opened at a similar time to us here, opening about a month before and they already had about 6000 likes on Facebook after their store opening, so we were just trying to drum up as many likes as we could before we opened. And basically just for people to see what’s going on as obviously the windows were blacked out and people wanted to know what was going on inside. We had the graffiti party, I’m not sure if you saw that? People were painting on the wall downstairs, just to get everyone involved and get people talking about us, get people coming in. Facebook is something that’s really big within the company at the moment, they are wanting us to reach out to people with it, so we try and update it everyday, just the merchandising we are doing in store, any new lines we are getting in just to get people more involved. I’ve got some promos that have gone live and posted them on Facebook yesterday so people know what is going on in the store.
T.T: No we don’t have a loyalty card
C.C: What would you say are the most effective tools you use to attract and engage the consumer?
C.C: Do you get a lot of repeat custom, and how do you track this? T.T: We will get repeat customers the longer we are open, I feel like at the moment it’s a lot of curiosity, people look through the door and they are trying to figure out who we are, so people just come in out of curiosity. Time will tell, we probably will get the same repeat customers over a certain time, I have noticed some already. I cant even judge this question on when I worked in London as it was so tourist base, so its hard to tell.
T.T: I just feel like it’s our brand concept in general. I just think from the outside of the store and people looking up to it looks different, the fact that we are painting our windows, it interests people. The fact that we also sell a real diverse range of products.
173.
174.
XXvsXY
XXvsXY
C.C: How do you track what your consumer wants? T.T: I guess from a department managers point of view, I would track mine with what’s been selling for me. So obviously I get my reports every week so if I’m selling loads of casual blouse that’s how I know what the customer wants, so then I talk to my head office and tell them that we need more casual blouse as that what has been buying. From that point of view, it’s more of a report point of view that we track what customers want rather than anything else. C.C: Who do you think your consumer is? I know we have touched upon this with being the blogger, but do you think its more male of female? T.T: I think its more female; women’s wear always has bigger footage just because it takes more money. I do feel like we have a lot of male customers, it depends on the area. Just because it’s new here, its hard to say what we are going to get. Because most of the men’s wear is mainly based around brands, it’s about getting the brand mix right. In London what might have worked might not work in Nottingham – so its hard for me say to what men want. With womenswear you’ll get the same package per store, you’ll get some designers brands but with men its mainly designer brands so at the moment is mainly women, as we might not have our men’s brand mix right. It’s so hard at the moment as we are obviously new, and people are coming out of curiosity. As they haven’t had an Urban Outfitters in Nottingham, they didn’t know what was going to work for us. We quickly realised that our streetwear brand are doing really well, so then we go to head office and tell them that we need more streetwear brands as they are selling, whereas the heritage brands might not be selling very well. It’s just about figuring out your customer. C.C: What plans do UO’s have for the future, and can you foresee the increased digitalisation of the retail landscape changing UO’s stores and method of interacting with the consumer? So obviously you have a lot of technology as we have spoken about, what do you think the future is? T.T: They are going to continue to grow; they have a plan of opening three stores a year, which shows they are obviously going forward. C.C: Obviously there is a lot of talk about the high street going into decline, but you obviously aren’t the typical retailer and are opening more stores T.T: I think we are going to keep growing, obviously it is a really big positive for us as it is a recession that we are opening new stores rather than closing stores down. I feel like In our stores we have iMacs and iPads and you can buy stuff online in store so we are still getting footfall, so they might be in store and buy something while they are here. So I feel like the way we make our stores, we are using the technology within our stores so its not determining people because they can still come into store and buy online. Obviously in America its so massive, there are hundred and hundred of stores and there is so much backing behind it that its obviously going to grow. When I first started working here we were the third London store to open, and now there are seven stores in London and that was three years ago. They are growing and growing and doing so well.
175.
176. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
3. appendix 3 177.
178. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
Primark consent
179.
180. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
C.C: A recent article in the Telegraph stated that Marks and Spencer’s should learn off Primark’s success, why do you think this is?
Primark questions
G.C: ????? C.C: You’ve not long moved Primark into a concession as Selfridges, moving in to a higher end department store, would you say it has attracted a different type of customer?
1.
What is your job role and what does the role entail?
2.
As someone who works at Primark, what do you think makes Primark so successful compared to other high street stores?
3.
A recent article in the Telegraph stated that Marks and Spencer’s should learn off Primark’s success, why do you think this is?
4.
You’ve not long moved Primark into a concession as Selfridges, moving in to a higher end department store, would you say it has attracted a different type of customer?
5.
With Primark not having an online store, why do you think you are still so successful? Do you feel this sets you back in terms of sales?
G.C: Yes & no, of course we are potentially losing out on online sales, however we are improving our customer experience & have launched Primania which is a way of showcasing our ‘new in’ products alongside our Facebook and twitter social media. We have no current plans to launch an online site however this still stands as a future possibility.
6.
Do you design stores in a certain for your male and female customers?
C.C: Do you design stores in a certain for your male and female customers?
7.
Who would you say Primark’s emerging markets are in the future?
G.C: Our menswear floor is displayed in outfits so the male customer can shop as easy & efficiently as possible. Our womenswear floor is displayed by department with mannequins displaying daily newness to push sales.
8.
Would you say consumers now shop differently after the recession or the same?
9.
Describe who you think your current consumer is – what are they like?
10.
When buying, how do you track what your consumer wants?
G.C: We have just opened in Northern Europe (Belgium Austria Germany Netherlands) and France, I would imagine we will emerge into Poland in the next year. Apart from that there is always America or the Far East but who knows?
11.
Currently blogging is becoming increasingly popular on the Internet, would you encourage people to blog more at Primark?
C.C: Would you say consumers now shop differently after the recession or the same?
12.
Have you considered alternative methods of attracting business, for instants Next recently opening coffee shops or other attractions in store?
G.C: No, I would say consumers are still shopping the same our sales have rocketed year on year which I can only imagine is down to our amazing value and constant new & exciting product!
13.
What do you think the future of Primark will be like?
C.C: Describe who you think your current consumer is – what are they like?
primark transcript
G.C: This has attracted the customer that may not necessarily shop in our standalone stores, we aim to send top grade products to selfridges so the styles aren’t your usual styling you would find in a primark store, this also sets the concession apart from the other stores, otherwise this would be a duplication.(Birmingham stores & Selfridges concession ) C.C: With Primark not having an online store, why do you think you are still so successful? Do you feel this sets you back in terms of sales?
C.C: Who would you say Primark’s emerging markets are in the future?
G.C: Our primark consumer is extremely varied from all different ages and backgrounds. However one thing they all have in common is our customer is in search of a bargain! We aim to provide up to date fashion pieces eg. £8 limited edition necklace as well as great value core items such as our £2 long pearl necklace. C.C: When buying, how do you track what your consumer wants?
Location: Date: Time: Duration: C.C: G.C:
G.C: We carry out store visits enabling us to have 1 to 1 feedback with our department managers who can update us on customer requests and any questions or concerns they have regarding the range.
Reading, Next 19th January 2014 at 16:00am 16:00am N/A Charlotte Cooper Gerri Cassidy
C.C: Currently blogging is becoming increasingly popular on the Internet, would you encourage people to blog more at Primark? G.C: From the launch of Primania we have been encouraged to blog at work & outside of work. Primania is primark’s new blogging website for public to upload looks & tag items on!
C.C: What is your job role and what does the role entail? G.C: My role is Assistant Buyer on the jewellery department. Our UK office buys for the UK and Northern Europe stores. My role is very intense at Primark, I report into a buyer and manage a trainee buyer, and there are three of us in the buying team. My day to role involves supporting my buyer 247, supplier development meetings, range planning, daily sample approving, attending buying trips to the Far East - twice a year. I have been lucky enough to attend an Inspiration trip to Ibiza. The not so exciting part to my role is authorising each individual purchase order to ship - this is very time consuming, house keeping such as tidying the samples/ amending orders & email communication takes up a lot of our time on the jewellery dept. However each day is different with challenges arising at all times making my role very interesting! C.C: As someone who works at Primark, what do you think makes Primark so successful compared to other high street stores?
C.C: Have you considered alternative methods of attracting business, for instants Next recently opening coffee shops or other attractions in store? G.C: No that I am aware of, however I have heard talk of a men’s chill out zone to be trialed in a store giving men the chance to have a break from shopping in our hectic stores! C.C: What do you think the future of Primark will be like? G.C: I think the future of primark be global expansion whilst trying to remain ethically responsible.
G.C:Our competitive retail price attracts consumers knowing they can get a necklace for example at the 3rd of the price compared to other retailers. Primark product is becoming increasingly competitive in design , quality and newness! Our stores are experiencing refits eg. Oxford street East & West (look at Leeds trinity) making the shopping experience much more enjoyable.
181.
182. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
4. appendix 4 183.
184. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
the future of the uk high street survey Your Questions Answered: I am researching into the future of the high street and as part of this project I am interested in your views and opinions. The information you provide will be collated with others and analysed so that I can understand the difference in generational buying, that will eventually help lead me understand ways in which will help the high street. The information provided will be treated in strictest confidence and you will not be individually identified in any presentations of the results. All questionnaires will be kept in accordance with the Data Protection Act and destroyed at the end of the project. Please email me if you have any questions: charlottelouisecooper@outlook.com 1. Are you male or female? Male Female 2. Which category below includes your age? 17 or younger 18-20 21-29 30-39 40-49 50-59 60 or older 3. Do you prefer to shop on the high street or online? High street Online Why? 4. Do you have any reservations about online shopping? Yes No If yes, why? 5. Does parking charges in town put you off going shopping? Yes No 6. Have you noticed a decrease in shops on the high street over the past few years? Yes No Haven’t noticed 7. Do you find there is too much choice in retail? Yes No 8. What affects you repurchasing from a brand? (you can choose more than one) Quality Price Style Brand Values Ethical reasons Loyalty 9. In a short sentence, how would you describe the future of the UK high street?
185.
186. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
187.
188. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
189.
190. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
Online shopping will soon take over because it is more convenient whereas the UK high street doesn’t have everything you need.
The high street will need to focus on quality of experience
191.
192. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
5. appendix 5 193.
194. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
Male Shopping Habits Survey I am researching into the new consumer that we are seeing on the high street and as part of that project I am interested in your shopping habits. The information you provide will be collated with others and analysed so that I can understand buying habits more, that will eventually help lead me to a strategic outcome on helping the help street. The information provided will be treated in strictest confidence and you will not be individually identified in any presentations of the results. All questionnaires will be kept in accordance with the Data Protection Act and destroyed at the end of the project. Please email me if you have any questions: charlottelouisecooper@outlook.com
8. What for you out of the following is a good in store environment? Music Technology in store Lifestyle Personalisation 9.
What is the most important thing for you in your life? Being successful Being healthy Being loved Being ambitious Being happy
1. Which category below includes your age? 18-20 21-23 24-26 27-29 30-33 2. How often do you shop clothes? Once a week Once every two weeks Once every three weeks Once a month Once every couple of months Rarely 3.
Do you shop more on the high street or online?
4.
Whilst on the high street, what do you usually do? I buy I browse
5.
What do you use online shopping websites for?
Buying Clothes Finding the best deals Checking if an items in stock
6. Would you say you are loyal to the high street? Yes No 7. Do you follow brands via social media? Yes No
195.
196. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
197.
198. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
6. appendix 6 199.
200. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
FEMale Shopping Habits Survey I am researching into the new consumer that we are seeing on the high street and as part of that project I am interested in your shopping habits. The information you provide will be collated with others and analysed so that I can understand buying habits more, that will eventually help lead me to a strategic outcome on helping the help street. The information provided will be treated in strictest confidence and you will not be individually identified in any presentations of the results. All questionnaires will be kept in accordance with the Data Protection Act and destroyed at the end of the project. Please email me if you have any questions: charlottelouisecooper@outlook.com
8. What for you out of the following is a good in store environment? Music Technology in store Lifestyle Personalisation 9.
What is the most important thing for you in your life? Being successful Being healthy Being loved Being ambitious Being happy
1. Which category below includes your age? 18-20 21-23 24-26 27-29 30-33 2. How often do you shop for clothes? Once a week Once every two weeks Once every three weeks Once a month Once every couple of months Rarely 3. Do you shop more on the high street or online? High Street Online 4.
Whilst on the high street, what do you usually do? I buy I browse
5.
What do you use online shopping websites for? Buying Clothes Finding the best deals Checking if an items in stock
6. Would you say you are loyal to the high street? Yes No 7. Do you follow brands via social media? Yes No 201.
202. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
203.
204. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
7. appendix 7 205.
206.. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
FEMALE HOBBIES I am researching into the new consumer that we are seeing on the high street and as part of that project I am interested in your hobbies to understand who the new consumer is. The information you provide will be collated with others and analysed so that I can understand the difference in gender, that will eventually help lead me to a strategic outcome on helping the help street. The information provided will be treated in strictest confidence and you will not be individually identified in any presentations of the results. All questionnaires will be kept in accordance with the Data Protection Act and destroyed at the end of the project. Please email me if you have any questions: charlottelouisecooper@outlook.com 1. In the past 6 months, which of the following hobbies have you participated in? (Please select all that apply.) Baking / Cooking Fitness Gardening Photography Blogging None of these
207.
208. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
8. appendix 8 209
210 XXvsXY
XXvsXY
12.
What do you think the high street could offer more?
13.
What for you has been a really memorable shopping experience? And why was this so memorable? For example was it the music, technology the shop had?
In order to gain more knowledge of the new consumer, individual interviews were conducted to understand consumers everyday lifestyle, their style as well as their views and opinions on the high street. All participants were briefed and signed ethical forms on behalf of Nottingham Trent University to agree to take part in these interviews.
14.
Do you follow any brands on social media (facebook, instagram, twitter) and if so why?
15.
Do you think it is important for brands to have social networking sites for you to engage with the brand?
Preview Questions
16.
How do you follow current fashion trends?
consumer interviews
Name: Gender: Age: On You 1. Describe to me your every-day routine: 2.
What would you say are your hobbies? What do you enjoy doing?
3.
What would you say are your ambitions in life?
4.
If I could grant you any job, what would it be and why?
5.
What do you feel masculinity/ femininity means to you?
6.
What technological devices do you own?
7.
How many apps do you currently have on your phone? Do you always use them all?
On Style 8. How would you describe your personal style? 9.
What are you top three fashion brands?
10.
In your wardrobe, what are your favourite items?
11.
Which celebrity style would you wish to steal?
12.
What magazines and blogs do you like to read?
13.
If your house was burning down, what three items would you take with you?
On The Market 1. What are your thoughts that the high street is going into decline? 2.
What high street stores do you shop in? (this doesn’t just have to be related to clothes)
3.
On the in store environment in high street stores – what are you feelings on them?
4.
Would you say you are a loyal customer to high street stores?
5.
Would you say you usually purchase something when going in store?
6.
How often to you go clothes shopping?
7.
Would you say you are ethical aware when you are shopping?
8.
Do you ever use online shopping?
9.
What do you use online shopping for? Is it to buy clothes, find the best deals? Check if things are in stock?
10.
Would you say you spend more online or offline?
11.
Do you prefer shopping online or offline? And if so why?
211.
212. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
Participant 1 Name: Fred Bloor Gender: Male Age: 30
C.C: Would you say you usually purchase something when going in store? F.B: As I don’t go in that much, I only really go in if I need to get something so yes I would say so.
On You C.C: Describe to me your every-day routine: F. B: It’s really quite boring, I wake up, go to the gym, go to work, and have dinner then go to bed. If I have enough time I’ll watch the tv in the evening. C.C: What TV would you watch if you did have enough time? F.B: I’m really into Homeland and Breaking Bad at the moment. C.C: What would you say are your hobbies? What do you enjoy doing? F.B: Urm, I enjoy gardening, it relaxes me at the weekend. I’m starting to sound old now. I also enjoy going out for dinner with my wife. Oh, I also like going to watch the football, an Aston Villa fan. C.C: What would you say are your ambitions in life? F.B: Just to be successful in anything I do C.C: If I could grant you any job, what would it be and why? F.B: This is a tough one, think it would have to be a professional golfer, you get to travel the world and get to play sport – seems like a good life. C.C: What do you feel masculinity/ femininity means to you? F.B: For me, masculinity means being in control, whereas it might seem old fashioned but being feminine for me is about being a housewife, being a provider for my children. C.C: What technological devices do you own? F.B: I’ve recently just brought a Mac computer, I’ve also got an iPad and of course an iPhone. C.C: How many apps do you currently have on your phone? Do you always use them all? F.B: I literally don’t have any apps, I only use my phone for work – calling people ect. On Style C.C: How would you describe your personal style? F.B: I’d like to say I’m smart casual
C.C: How often to you go clothes shopping? F.B: Probably like once a month, or once every three weeks. C.C: Would you say you are ethical aware when you are shopping? F.B: I’m ethical in every other way apart from clothes shopping, which sounds awful. C.C: Do you ever use online shopping? F.B: Yes, when I’ve got work and I can’t go out. However, I don’t buy a lot so it quite a rare occasion. C.C: What do you use online shopping for? Is it to buy clothes, find the best deals? Check if things are in stock? F.B: All of them really, I like to shop around to see if there is any sales going on. C.C: Would you say you spend more online or offline? F.B: Offline, this is just because I don’t ever really spend a lot of money on the internet as I worry about the quality. C.C: Do you prefer shopping online or offline? And if so why? F.B: This one is hard, I don’t think I prefer any of them in particular – its just a function isn’t it. C.C: What do you think the high street could offer more? F.B: Urm, maybe a cresh area where you could drop your kids off, I know my wife finds it hard going shopping. Also, not make it so complicated with the layout of the store – I just think it should be more minimal rather than cramming everything in the store. C.C: What for you has been a really memorable shopping experience? And why was this so memorable? For example was it the music, technology the shop had? F.B: When I went in America, we went to the Disney store – I understand it’s a kids store, however it’s just so magical for the kids. C.C: Do you follow any brands on social media (facebook, instagram, twitter) and if so why? F.B: No, none at all. C.C: Do you think it is important for brands to have social networking sites for you to engage with the brand? F.B: For me it really doesn’t affect me, however I know younger generations are really into social media, so I would say its important. C.C: How do you follow current fashion trends? F.B: I just wear what I want to wear.
C.C: What are you top three fashion brands? F.B: Reiss, Gant and Topman for the odd bits
Participant 2 Name: Emma Simms Gender: Female Age: 21
C.C: In your wardrobe, what are your favourite items? F.B: It would have to be my Gant jumpers – they are the softer things. C.C: Which celebrity style would you wish to steal? F.B: I don’t know anyone’s style enough to steal. However, I think my wife would want me to have David Beckhams. C.C: What magazines and blogs do you like to read? F.B: Again, going to be boring on this one and I don’t read anything except the newspaper. C.C: If your house was burning down, what three items would you take with you? F.B: My family, sentimental things and my laptop. On The Market C.C: What are your thoughts that the high street is going into decline? F.B: I do think its really quite upsetting, I love going to the town with the kids at the weekend and it just seems such a shame that a lot of places are closing down.
On You C.C: Describe to me your every-day routine: E.S: Walk my dog, do UNI work, have tv on in the background, exercise (3 nights a week) have dinner, watch more tv/catch up on programmes, go to sleep C.C: What would you say are your hobbies? What do you enjoy doing? E.S: Snowboarding, although I haven’t been in ages, shopping, keeping fit and also blogging. C.C: Why do you have a blog? E.S: I like to allow my followers to try out new products I’ve used that I do reviews on. C.C: What would you say are your ambitions in life? E.S: To become a Mother and raise a big family
C.C: What high street stores do you shop in? (this doesn’t just have to be related to clothes) F.B: So the ones I mentioned above, I also shop in Kiehls for grooming, Marks and Spencers and I think that’s about it.
C.C: If I could grant you any job, what would it be and why? E.S: Become a snowboard instructor, because I enjoy the sport and fitness side of the job and working outdoors
C.C: On the in store environment in high street stores – what are you feelings on them? F.B: It is hard for me to comment, just as I don’t go in loads of shops to be able to compare, however from what I’ve seen they are quite boring – I just want to get in and out the shop and I feel like some of these places are like mazes.
C.C: What do you feel masculinity/ femininity means to you? E.S: Masculinity to me means being a working man who provides for their family with good morals. Femininity to me means being an independent worker/mother/wife who doesn’t need to rely on anyone
C.C: Would you say you are a loyal customer to high street stores? F.B: I would like to say so, however I don’t believe I go in enough
C.C: What technological devices do you own? E.S: iPad, Laptop, iPhone, iPod touch, DVD player, TV, Fitness bike, Nintendo Wii
213.
214. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
On Style C.C: How would you describe your personal style? E.S: Laid back, basic, casual
C.C: What for you has been a really memorable shopping experience? And why was this so memorable? For example was it the music, technology the shop had? E.S: A memorable shopping experience I had was shopping in Jack Wills, using their Apple Macs and touch screens to check stock that wasn’t in store, I found this really fun and you were able to see some items that weren’t in store, making you tempted to buy more things!
C.C: What are you top three fashion brands? E.S: ASOS, H&M, Dr Denim C.C: In your wardrobe, what are your favourite items? E.S: Dr Denim black skinny jeans, Black ASOS sheepskin collar jacket and Levis Denim jacket C.C: Which celebrity style would you wish to steal? E.S: Cara Delevingne C.C: What magazines and blogs do you like to read? E.S: Grazia Magazine and Fitness blogs found on tumblr.com e.g. http://behealfit.tumblr.com/. I like to go on these as they keep me up to date with what’s going on. C.C: If your house was burning down, what three items would you take with you? E.S: My phone, sentimental jewellery, family photo albums On The Market C.C: What are your thoughts that the high street is going into decline? E.S: I think it’s a shame that high street shops are going into decline due to online shopping websites and large shopping centres on the edge of towns/cities. Although, it is much easier to shop online or in a large shopping centre where everything is all under one roof so it isn’t surprising the high street is suffering from this C.C: What high street stores do you shop in? (this doesn’t just have to be related to clothes) E.S: Topshop, H&M, Zara, TK Maxx, Primark C.C: On the in store environment in high street stores – what are you feelings on them? E.S: I don’t particularly enjoy shopping in store, when it is busy in sale time for example, it’s not always easy to find what you are looking for and staff can sometimes be rude due to stress, which makes shopping online a much more enjoyable experience C.C: Would you say you are a loyal customer to high street stores? E.S: To some, yes! C.C: Would you say you usually purchase something when going in store? E.S: Yes C.C: How often to you go clothes shopping? E.S: Most weekends
C.C: Do you follow any brands on social media (facebook, instagram, twitter) and if so why? E.S: I follow ASOS, Topshop and Brandy Melville on Facebook and Instagram, to be alerted of new stock they have in and I enjoy looking at the different photos they upload of interesting current styles C.C: Do you think it is important for brands to have social networking sites for you to engage with the brand? E.S: I do yes, if you are following one of their pages, you will have a constant reminder of the brand when you are just going through your daily activities i.e. checking facebook/twitter so you are always tempted to have a look and be alerted straight away about what offers they have one. C.C: How do you follow current fashion trends? E.S: I follow fashion blogs and see what celebrities are wearing in magazines (grazia) Participant 3 Name: Adam Streeter Gender: Male Age: 24 On You C.C: Describe to me your every-day routine: A.S: I get up and go to the gym, go to work, work and then go out for lunch. Come home, make dinner and watch some TV. C.C: What TV do you watch? A.S: I tend to watch Sport such as football, Rugby, Cricket. I also like How I Met Your Mother. Most recently I’ve been getting into Sherlock. C.C: What would you say are your hobbies? What do you enjoy doing? A.S: I like playing sport, such as Football and Water polo. I like going to the gym. I also like going out socialising with my friends and shopping. C.C: What would you say are your ambitions in life? A.S: To earn a lot of money, I want to be wealthy so that I can take care of my family and children. C.C: If I could grant you any job, what would it be and why? A.S: Professional footballer – I’m passionate about it and its what I love to do. C.C: What do you feel masculinity/ femininity means to you? A.S: Urm, tricky question, I would say conforming to male society, so you know doing manly things like drinking beer, and playing sport. I guess just being in charge in of everything I do. C.C: What technological devices do you own? A.S: Two iPhones, iPad, computer and Xbox
C.C: Would you say you are ethical aware when you are shopping? E.S: Not really, no
C.C: What Xbox games do you own? A.S: Urm, Fifa, Grand Theft Auto and COD
C.C: Do you ever use online shopping? E.S: Yes C.C: What do you use online shopping for? Is it to buy clothes, find the best deals? Check if things are in stock? E.S: To buy clothes that I can’t find in stores, e.g. ASOS own brand
C.C: Why do you like those games? A.S: I want to be part of the whole saving the world aspect, especially when I play Call of Duty and killing the Zombies – I like that I’m in control and I’m able to do to something about it.
C.C: Would you say you spend more online or offline? E.S: Probably online!
C.C: How many apps do you currently have on your phone? Do you always use them all? A.S: I’ve got about thirty apps and don’t use them all. I only use BBC sport and Daily Mail. For me personally, I don’t need apps on a day-to-day basis.
C.C: Do you prefer shopping online or offline? And if so why?
C.C: What’s your favourite films? A.S: Gladiator, Any Given Sunday, Transformers
E.S: It depends what I’m shopping for, if I need something for a specific event I like to try it on in store, but the majority of the time I prefer shopping online as it’s more relaxed and requires less energy C.C: What do you think the high street could offer more? E.S: I think the high street could perhaps match the offers they advertise online in store also, as some don’t do this, I also think high street shops would benefit from perhaps offering certain offers that aren’t available online to bring the consumer into store as opposed to shopping online with their competitors.
On Style C.C: How would you describe your personal style? A.S: Urm, trendy and up to date I’d say. C.C: What are you top three fashion brands? A.S: All Saints, Urban Outfitters and Leigh C.C: In your wardrobe, what are your favourite items? A.S: My All Saints t-shirt, my new jacket from Leigh and my other All Saints cardigan that I brought recently.
215.
216. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
C.C: Which celebrity style would you wish to steal? A.S: David Beckham C.C: What magazines and blogs do you like to read? A.S: Daily Mail I like to read on my commute to work and GQ magazine when I have spare time C.C: If your house was burning down, what three items would you take with you? A.S: My watch, my laptop and my iPhone On The Market C.C: What are your thoughts that the high street is going into decline? A.S: Urm, it’s upsetting, I much prefer to go into shops rather than using online as I can try things on. I like going out for a day for shopping, its almost like a day out and gives you something to do. I don’t really get a sense and feel for the clothes online, I feel like photos can mislead you. You can lose some of the experience with shopping online. C.C: What high street stores do you shop in? (this doesn’t just have to be related to clothes) A.S: Sports Direct, Urban Outfitters, All Saints, American Apparel, Jack Wills and T.M.Lewin C.C: On the in store environment in high street stores – what are you feelings on them? A.S: I feel like it’s a bit of mix, like the Urban Outfitters one is really cool. I find places like Topman and River Island boring as its really white and is just the same.
Participant 4 Name: Katie McArthur Gender: Female Age: 20 On You C.C: Describe to me your every-day routine: K.M: Around 7.00 o’clock in the weekdays my alarm goes off, I get ready and drive to work in Leicester. When at work I go straight to the post room and then head to my desk to read through my emails. From then on my routine depends on what challenges and requirements are needed for the day ahead; every day is different! Around 12.30 I will run to the fridge to grab a bit to eat (usually soup). The day usually fly’s by in the afternoon and I tend to leave 5.30 & 6.30. Get home around 7.00 – bed by 10.30 to start the whole routine again for the next 4 days! C.C: What would you say are your hobbies? What do you enjoy doing? K.M: I really enjoy having time out at the gym, usually running and also try to fit in swimming once a week, which is really relaxing after a hard day at the office ! I would say working out is an integral part of my weekly fix For me, it was the Olympics that made me motivated to go. C.C: What would you say are your ambitions in life? K.M: My main ambition in life to be happy and live amongst others you I make happy through family, friendship and love. Alongside this I would like to feel I make the most out of life – through wanting to travel the world and creating a successful career for myself
C.C: Would you say you are a loyal customer to high street stores? A.S: Yes I would say. I like to go back to the shops I like, however I am quite open to shopping elsewhere.
C.C: If I could grant you any job, what would it be and why? K.M: Currently my job as a buyers assistant is my ideal job eventually I would love to progress into being a buyer for my own area and having a team of people. However sometimes when I feel reflective I wonder of having a more rewarding job ! It would be great to work in third world country and help those in need.
C.C: Would you say you usually purchase something when going in store? A.S: Yeah I would say so, almost 90% of the time.
C.C: What do you feel masculinity/ femininity means to you? K.M: Male & Female ? – However traits of masculine and femininity can cross over into both sexes
C.C: How often to you go clothes shopping? A.S: Once every three weeks probably, I don’t go on big splurges, but I like to get clothes little and often.
C.C: What technological devices do you own? K.M: Ipod, Iphone & Laptop
C.C: Would you say you are ethical aware when you are shopping? A.S: No not at all, I don’t really think of it, I guess it is because I’m not that aware of it.
C.C: How many apps do you currently have on your phone? Do you always use them all? K.M: Loads about 30! I only use about 7 ! Social media, banks and shopping being the most popular
C.C: Do you ever use online shopping? A.S: Yes, I like to use Asos but I wouldn’t say I’m a big online shopper, its very rare that I do use online shopping.
On Style C.C: How would you describe your personal style? K.M: Casual, versatile and authentic, (hopefully not tacky)!
C.C: What do you use online shopping for? Is it to buy clothes, find the best deals? Check if things are in stock? A.S: I usually go to see the best deals and bargain, it’s a nice thing to do as its easy to sit on your couch and have a browse to see if there is anything in the sale.
C.C: What are you top three fashion brands? K.M: Zara, H&M, Topshop
C.C: Would you say you spend more online or offline? A.S: Offline definitely
C.C: In your wardrobe, what are your favourite items? K.M: My Topshop heels, Moncler Puffer Jacket & MK bag
C.C: Do you prefer shopping online or offline? And if so why? A.S: Offline, its just a nicer experience, I like to visually see everything in front of me.
C.C: Which celebrity style would you wish to steal? K.M: Beyonce!
C.C: What do you think the high street could offer more? A.S: Fashion advice, special returns policy, better loyalty discount, more personalised things for instance, Nike ID trainers.
C.C: What magazines and blogs do you like to read? K.M: Vogue, Glamour & Harpars Bazar – Also I follow a lot of my favourite retailers and sports blogs on social media so I can a quick update / snap of new trends
C.C: What for you has been a really memorable shopping experience? And why was this so memorable? For example was it the music, technology the shop had? A.S: I think when I brought my first suit in T.M.Lewin, it was individualised attention and good customer service, which just made it that extra bit special. C.C: Do you follow any brands on social media (facebook, instagram, twitter) and if so why? A.S: No, I don’t really care what they have to say. C.C: Do you think it is important for brands to have social networking sites for you to engage with the brand? A.S: Yeah I think its important as it’s the way the world is moving – they need to engage with younger generations who are using it more. However, I wouldn’t feel the need to use them – maybe it’s an age related thing. C.C: How do you follow current fashion trends? A.S: Just looking at other people, seeing what people are wearing, I tend to look at TV, adverts and celebrities for influence. I would probably say friends too.
C.C: If your house was burning down, what three items would you take with you? K.M: My phone, pictures and jewellery On The Market C.C: What are your thoughts that the high street is going into decline? K.M: I wasn’t aware that it necessarily was! I understand that out of town shopping and online is becoming increasingly popular – this could be down to convenience and ease of shopping C.C: What high street stores do you shop in? (this doesn’t just have to be related to clothes) K.M: Primark, H&M, Zara & Topshop C.C: On the in store environment in high street stores – what are you feelings on them? K.M: I really like, but you its is time consuming to look round the shops and a lot of effort on the weekend when its busy – they close to earlier and parkings a pain – that why places like outfit are great
217.
218. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
C.C: Would you say you are a loyal customer to high street stores? K.M: Only to my favourite ones mentioned!
C.C: If I could grant you any job, what would it be and why? C.S: The FD of a plc. Because I want to run a company that has influences across the world and be able to shape its culture with my beliefs.
C.C: Would you say you usually purchase something when going in store? K.M: Yes!
C.C: What do you feel masculinity/ femininity means to you? C.S: Masculinity means to me being able to provide for your family and keep them safe and healthy no matter what. Being a platform for people to be able to feel comfortable when relying on and approaching you with anything.
C.C: How often to you go clothes shopping? K.M: Roughly twice a month – this can vary C.C: Would you say you are ethical aware when you are shopping? K.M: Not really – I am more likely to buy if its promoted as made in Britain – however I do feel more concerned when I go into Primark C.C: Do you ever use online shopping? K.M: Weekly I browse for ideas however I rarely purchase
C.C: What technological devices do you own? C.S: Music pa system, microphones, electric keyboard/synths, guitars (pretty much every musical instrument), ps3, ps4, tvs, iphones blackberry, android phone, ipad macbook pro, printer. C.C: How many apps do you currently have on your phone? Do you always use them all? C.S: 52 – no hardly any of them
C.C: What do you use online shopping for? Is it to buy clothes, find the best deals? Check if things are in stock? K.M: Mainly inspiration, its still a hassle as they do not have sizes all the time! Also postage and packaging in a pain as well as knowing if it fits
On Style C.C: How would you describe your personal style? C.S: I would say chilled
C.C: Would you say you spend more online or offline? K.M: Offline
C.C: What are you top three fashion brands? C.S: Asos, Primark and H&M.
C.C: Do you prefer shopping online or offline? And if so why? K.M: Offline; I am able to try garments on fit and feel fabric as well as see the value in the product – it’s easier to return
C.C: In your wardrobe, what are your favourite items? C.S: Skinny jeans, puffer jacket and white t-shirt.
C.C: What do you think the high street could offer more? K.M: More customer friendly staff in terms of getting sizes, promotion and perhaps trend inspiration through mannequins of media in store
C.C: Which celebrity style would you wish to steal? C.S: I don’t follow fashion trends, so I wouldn’t know
C.C: What for you has been a really memorable shopping experience? And why was this so memorable? For example was it the music, technology the shop had? K.M: Visiting Harrods for the first time ! The customer service, product and visual merchandising was amazing and the glam of the store makes you star struck
C.C: What magazines and blogs do you like to read? C.S: I don’t read many magazines or blogs, I do however, read biographys.
C.C: Do you follow any brands on social media (facebook, instagram, twitter) and if so why? K.M: Yes all my favourites, as well as working for George I follow the competiton so I have update to date information of the market and ideas
On The Market C.C: What are your thoughts that the high street is going into decline? C.S: Assuming this is to do with online shopping, it’s not surprising. It’s getting easier and easier to spend money on a computer phone tablet or whatever. People, including me, can’t be bothered to drive and walk around town when they can sit in front of a computer viewing far more items from different places with greater ease and less personal cost. I can’t see it ever changing.
C.C: Do you think it is important for brands to have social networking sites for you to engage with the brand? K.M: Having a presence online is really important – at George ours is growing – with Instagram and Facebook we are able to get a fast reaction and picture of what our customer likes / dislikes as well as recommendations. Additionally our website is growing every month, our customer shops online to get the correct sizes, ideas and convenience of shopping from home. C.C: How do you follow current fashion trends? K.M: For my department I issue a monthly comp shop report, additionally we get inspiration from our suppliers and competition. My designer will issue out from the catwalks key designers, prints and shapes that she feeling strongly for the season – we also have design presentations every 2 months. This is where as a core team we are told of the trend direction and key trends that womenswear is feeling for the season. Participant 5 Name: Calvin Santana-Vaz Gender: Male Age: 12
C.C: If your house was burning down, what three items would you take with you? C.S: Piano, photograph book, car keys
C.C: What high street stores do you shop in? (this doesn’t just have to be related to clothes) C.S: Sports direct, Primark, H&M, Urban Outfitters, Topshop, Topman, Sainsburys, Tesco, Morrisons, Aldi, Wilkinson. C.C: On the in store environment in high street stores – what are you feelings on them? C.S: The loud music really annoys me. I went into a topshop/man store the other week and they had hired a dj to blast out some horrendous bassy songs. It was truly the worst shopping experience I’ve had. C.C: Would you say you are a loyal customer to high street stores? C.S: Not at all.
On You C.C: Describe to me your every-day routine: C.S: Wake up, shower, shave, walk to work, make coffee, count the time, leave work, walk home, make dinner, go to the gym, play hockey/tennis, play cod, sleep. C.C: What would you say are your hobbies? What do you enjoy doing? C.S: Hockey, tennis, piano, guitar, singing, shopping, visiting zoos, watching films C.C: What would you say are your ambitions in life? C.S: Become the FD of a large plc.
C.C: Would you say you usually purchase something when going in store? C.S: Yes. C.C: How often to you go clothes shopping? C.S: Every week. C.C: Would you say you are ethical aware when you are shopping? C.S: No C.C: Do you ever use online shopping? C.S: Yes all the time C.C: What do you use online shopping for? Is it to buy clothes, find the best deals? Check if things are in stock? C.S: Clothes, gadgets, presents, and to check the best prices C.C: Would you say you spend more online or offline? C.S: Online
219.
220. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
C.C: Do you prefer shopping online or offline? And if so why? C.S: Online. It’s easier, far cheaper, quicker, and I can compare things far easier. C.C: What do you think the high street could offer more? C.S: Access to their full stock lists (maybe even sort of touch screen things instore enabling consumers to browse on their website) etc in store. C.C: What for you has been a really memorable shopping experience? And why was this so memorable? For example was it the music, technology the shop had? C.S: When I went to buy my pa system it was amazing because in the shop they had all the musical instruments the world could buy and I just played with everything. I also then spent a lot of money on music stuff so that is another reason I remember it so well.
On The Market C.C: What are your thoughts that the high street is going into decline? A.D: All the closed shops don’t look very attractive and doesn’t create a nice shopping environment, but it doesn’t affect me hugely C.C: What high street stores do you shop in? (this doesn’t just have to be related to clothes) A.D: Topshop, H and M, River island, Monki, Boots, Urban Outfitters , primark C.C: On the in store environment in high street stores – what are you feelings on them? A.D: I notice good in store environments that have been considered and fit the brand EG urban outfitters but the store environment not being interesting wouldn’t stop me from shopping there
C.C: Do you follow any brands on social media (facebook, instagram, twitter) and if so why? C.S: No I don’t
C.C: Would you say you are a loyal customer to high street stores? A.D: No
C,C: Do you think it is important for brands to have social networking sites for you to engage with the brand? C.S: Yes definitely. Vital way for the brands to reach their customers, and let them know (relatively for free) the offers deals and new products they have
C.C: Would you say you usually purchase something when going in store? A.D: No, I will often try lots of pieces on but I only but if I really love it.
C.C: How do you follow current fashion trends? C.S: I don’t
C.C: How often to you go clothes shopping? A.D: Twice a week C.C: Would you say you are ethical aware when you are shopping? A.D: No not at all
Participant 6 Name: Ashley Dean Gender: Female Age: 21
C.C: Do you ever use online shopping? A.D: Yes all the time
On You C.C: Describe to me your every-day routine: A.D: Sleep, Eat, Work, Eat, Sleep
C.C: What do you use online shopping for? Is it to buy clothes, find the best deals? Check if things are in stock? A.D: Ultimately to buy clothes, shops like asos make it so easy to send back unwanted items and you can often get next day delivery
C.C: What would you say are your hobbies? What do you enjoy doing? A.D: Reading magazines, shopping, going out and socializing C.C: What would you say are your ambitions in life? A.D: Be happy and become a fashion director C.C: If I could grant you any job, what would it be and why? A.D: Fashion Director because it encompasses trends, styling, image making and creating
C.C: Would you say you spend more online or offline? A.D: Online C.C: Do you prefer shopping online or offline? And if so why? A.D: Offline as you get to feel the clothes but online as its easy, they have more stock, it’s convenient and open 24hours C.C: What do you think the high street could offer more? A.D: More individual artisan shops
C.C: What do you feel masculinity/ femininity means to you? A.D: I don’t really consider these in my everyday life
C.C: What for you has been a really memorable shopping experience? And why was this so memorable? For example was it the music, technology the shop had? A.D: The first time I went into the And Other Stories store on regent street, as it fits my aesthetic perfectly
C.C: What technological devices do you own? A.D: iPhone, Mac, Nikon Camera, Sony video camera, iPod
C.C: Do you follow any brands on social media (facebook, instagram, twitter) and if so why? A.D: Yes, instagram mostly, to get style inspiration
C.C: How many apps do you currently have on your phone? Do you always use them all? A.D: 15, I use about 5 of them regularly
C.C: Do you think it is important for brands to have social networking sites for you to engage with the brand? A.D: Yes in the current digitally obsessed world, I would be shocked if a brand didn’t have an online presence
On Your Style C.C: How would you describe your personal style? A.D: Electric, modern, hippy grunge (a real mixture, often depending on my mood)
C.C: How do you follow current fashion trends? A.D: I look to the runway shows and street style
C.C: What are you top three fashion brands? A.D: Asos, Zara, One Teaspoon C.C: In your wardrobe, what are your favourite items? A.D: Leather skirt, big jumpers, SHOES and statement coats.
Participant 7 Name: John Griffiths Gender: Male Age: 28
C.C: Which celebrity style would you wish to steal? A.D: Kate Foley (buyer for opening ceremony) and Suki Waterhouse
On You C.C: Describe to me your every-day routine: J.G: Well I get up & get ready for work, have breakfast, go to work, go out to the pub after work for a few with work colleagues, come home and cook some dinner.
C.C: What magazines and blogs do you like to read? A.D: Oracle Fox, Stockholm Street Style, Love Aesthetics
C.C: What would you say are your hobbies? What do you enjoy doing? J.G: Golf, rugby, football – both watching and playing and socialising.
C.C: If your house was burning down, what three items would you take with you? A.D: House hold stuff – Acne boots, Louis Vuitton Bag, Alexander Wang dress.
C.C: What would you say are your ambitions in life? J.G: I want to be successful in anything I do, with the hope of being able to provide for my family.
221.
222. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
C.C: If I could grant you any job, what would it be and why? J.G: Erm, I’d like to be a managing director of my own company so that I don’t have to take orders from anybody.
C.C: Would you say you spend more online or offline? J.G: Online, for definite
C.C: What do you feel masculinity/ femininity means to you? J.G: In my eyes masculinity is about accepting a male’s role in life, so being a protector, provider , leader and role model and I guess femininity is all about the appearance…maybe?
C.C: Do you prefer shopping online or offline? And if so why? J.G: Online, like I said it’s much more convenient
C.C: What technological devices do you own? J.G: Mobile phone, iPod, iPad, Laptop C.C: How many apps do you currently have on your phone? Do you always use them all? J.G: Erm I dunno, around 3 or 5? Don’t really use them that much apart from the daily mail app and BBC sport app. On Style C.C: How would you describe your personal style? J.G: I’d say smart and tailored, a very British look.
C.C: What do you think the high street could offer more? J.G: Not sure, convenience maybe? The whole faff of having to pay for parking etc gets on my nerves C.C: What for you has been a really memorable shopping experience? And why was this so memorable? For example was it the music, technology the shop had? J.G: Going into the Abercrombie and Fitch Store in NYC was memorable, in that the music was way too loud and the shop was so dark you couldn’t see anything you were buying C.C: Do you follow any brands on social media (facebook, instagram, twitter) and if so why? J.G: No, not really C.C: Do you think it is important for brands to have social networking sites for you to engage with the brand? J.G: Yeah I guess so
C.C: What are you top three fashion brands? J.G: Reiss, Gant and Ralph Lauren. C.C: In your wardrobe, what are your favourite items? J.G: My big knit from reiss and my lightweight spring jacket from Ralph Lauren. C.C: Which celebrity style would you wish to steal? J.G: David Gandy C.C: What magazines and blogs do you like to read? J.G: Don’t read blogs but I read golfing mags. C.C: If your house was burning down, what three items would you take with you? J.G; My phone, laptop and TV On The Market C.C: What are your thoughts that the high street is going into decline? J.G: It doesn’t really bother me that much C.C: What high street stores do you shop in? (this doesn’t just have to be related to clothes) J.G: I don’t really do much shopping on the high street
C.C: How do you follow current fashion trends? J.G: I’m not sure I necessarily follow trends, I just buy what I would like to wear Participant 8 Name: Alex Miller Gender: Female Age: 21 On You C.C: Describe to me your every-day routine: A.M: I wake up early, I try anyway. I always have to have a coffee, sit in my bed and watch the news and go through my emails. Some days I try and go to the gym. Then I come back, have a shower and get dressed and have some porridge. Then I go to work and some nights I walk home and then some nights I meet my friends to dinner to catch up. C.C: What would you say are your hobbies? What do you enjoy doing? A.M: My hobbies: exercise, so running, reading. I like to play tennis, but this is usually a summer activity. I love going to see films, its one of my favourite things to do and I love either making dinner or going for dinner with friends.
C.C: On the in store environment in high street stores – what are you feelings on them? J.G: I don’t really like them, no – it stresses me out having to queue up to try something on
C.C: What would you say are your ambitions in life? A.M: Urm, its very important for me to be successful, really important for me to feel good at what I do. I like to feel like I’m doing my best. I’m always striving for something more and to be better.
C.C: Would you say you are a loyal customer to high street stores? J.G: I’d say not really
C.C: If I could grant you any job, what would it be and why? A.M: I like to be a creative director at an advertising company.
C.C: Would you say you usually purchase something when going in store? J.G: No
C.C: What do you feel masculinity/ femininity means to you? A.M: I like to think I’m strong and independent and I think its good to have your own voice and your own opinions but also its very important to at least try and be acknowledgeable. Traditionally women are seen as an image, and we don’t have much use but I want to make sure I’m more than the stereotypical women.
C.C: How often to you go clothes shopping? J.G: Very very rarely C.C: Would you say you are ethically aware when you are shopping? J.G: Erm, I’d like to say so but I don’t really go shopping that much
C.C: What technological devices do you own? A.M: I have a mac book pro and an Iphone and I did have an Ipad but I sold it as I didn’t feel like I was using, its quite extravagant to own when you don’t use it.
C.C: Do you ever use online shopping? J.G: Yeah, that’s how I really shop
C.C: How many apps do you currently have on your phone? Do you always use them all? A.M: I always download them but I never use them. I have, lets see (pause) I’ve got loads. I’ve got 50 and I actually don’t use any of them.
C.C: What do you use online shopping for? Is it to buy clothes, find the best deals? Check if things are in stock? J.G: I use online shopping for food and clothes really, much more convenient when I’ve got work
On Style C.C: How would you describe your personal style? A.M: Urm, I like to source individual pieces, so I like travelling and I always make sure I get something that relates to that place, that’s why I always go to the antiques shops of that area. I’d say I’m simple but I’m not conservative. I don’t always think that much about what I’m wearing. I love fabric, I love velvets and sheer fabrics and silks.
C.C: Would you say you spend more online or offline? J.G: Online, for definite C.C: Do you prefer shopping online or offline? And if so why? J.G: Online, like I said it’s much more convenient
C.C: What are you top three fashion brands? A.M: I do like Anthrpologie, I always like Gap and I don’t know why but I think they do good simple basics. And & Other Stories is a great new store – really enjoy going in there.
223.
224. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
C.C: Why do you like it? A.M: I like it as it’s a creative store, it almost looks like an editorial. It is based on the online independent women, they want you to create your own outfit – which is what I like, and mannequins don’t tell you how to dress. It considers the modern women and the modern shopper. C.C: In your wardrobe, what are your favourite items? A.M: I have a jacket obsession, I love my new mustard yellow jacket, also my teal dress that I brought from an individual online shop – it’s a one off. C.C: Which celebrity style would you wish to steal? A.M: Bit cliché, but I still love Kate Moss. C.C: What magazines and blogs do you like to read? A.M: I don’t read blogs, I find them very dull. Magazines, I find them very expensive and full of advertisements so I find there not worth what they actually are. I did have a subscription to Hunger magazine, used to buy Vogue too. C.C: If your house was burning down, what three items would you take with you? A.M: My mum, my dad and my sister. On The Market C.C: What are your thoughts that the high street is going into decline? A.M: I think Amazon is having a big affect on the whole retail landscape and I think although I understand that people are under time pressures, I think it is important that we shop on the high street. C.C: What high street stores do you shop in? (this doesn’t just have to be related to clothes) A.M: I love Liberty’s, Conran shop and Anthropologie. C.C: On the in store environment in high street stores – what are you feelings on them? A.M: I think the rail is stail, and I think they need to create their stores more rather than merchandise them. & Other Stories is a very good example of this.
Participant 9 Name: Greg Pattison Gender: Male Age: 26 On You C.C: Describe to me your every-day routine: G.P: Have a coffee in the morning to wake me up, go to the gym if I’m feeling up to it. Get the tube to work, get back around 7pm and then cook dinner, watch a TV and then go to bed. C.C: What do you watch on TV? G.P: I’m really into Homeland at the moment. C.C: What would you say are your hobbies? What do you enjoy doing? G.P: I like to go skiing; I go once a year if I can – I would say I’m one for the outdoors, as I enjoy going camping and surfing. I also like to have a leisurely game of golf on a Sunday too – good time to socialise with friends. C.C: What would you say are your ambitions in life? G.P: To ultimately be successful – money is my biggest driver. C.C: If I could grant you any job, what would it be and why? G.P: Hmm, I would like to be a professional stockbroker, a hard job but the money looks amazing. C.C: What do you feel masculinity/ femininity means to you? G.P: For me masculinity means power, I think being powerful and strong makes someone masculine, you’ve got to a provider. C.C: What technological devices do you own? G.P: An iPhone, Mac, I’ve recently just brought the new X Box 1 actually.
C.C: Would you say you are a loyal customer to high street stores? A.M: I shop far more in store than online but I don’t go to any specific stores religiously.
C.C: How many apps do you currently have on your phone? Do you always use them all? G.P: Lets have a look, (pause) I’d say about twenty. I really don’t use them that much though, I only ever use them when I am seriously bored.
C.C: Would you say you usually purchase something when going in store? A.M: No, only because I don’t have the funds to do so.
On Style C.C: How would you describe your personal style? G.P: I’d say casual, American Jock
C.C: How often to you go clothes shopping? A.M: Its hard, I go shopping more in Nottingham as I’m in the city centre. I would probably say twice a month. C.C: Would you say you are ethical aware when you are shopping? A.M: Yes, but not as much as I should be. If I like something, I buy it. I don’t actually shop at Primark. C.C: Do you ever use online shopping? A.M: Rarely, its like I do, but I can never make my mind up as there is so many options and I’m quite an impulsive buyer. I like to touch my clothes before I buy them.
C.C: What are you top three fashion brands? G.P: Nike, Cow in Nottingham and Levi’s. C.C: In your wardrobe, what are your favourite items? G.P: My Levis vintage denim jacket, my Nike Air trainers and my University jumper – I always wear it round the house. C.C: Which celebrity style would you wish to steal? G.P: I used to love James Deans, so probably his.
C.C: What do you use online shopping for? Is it to buy clothes, find the best deals? Check if things are in stock? A.M: To browse the new collections and perhaps what sort of fashion trends are going on. To browse really.
C.C: What magazines and blogs do you like to read? G.P: I read a lot of GQ magazine and sports magazine. In terms of blogs, I follow people like Laird Hamilton and Julian Wilson on their surfing.
C.C: Would you say you spend more online or offline? A.M: Offline
C.C: If your house was burning down, what three items would you take with you? G.P: My iPhone, my Canon camera and my backpack.
C.C: Do you prefer shopping online or offline? And if so why? A.M: Offline, I’ve had too many times of buying things online for example, Asos, its really bad quality. Then you’ve got the hassle of taking it back and I don’t think its worth it.
On The Market C.C: What are your thoughts that the high street is going into decline? G.P: I can’t say that I’m that upset about it, I guess its just upsetting because I’ve always grown up with having it and it comes part of your community. Its handy to have it, if you are in the area you can just nip to the shops.
C.C: Do you follow any brands on social media (facebook, instagram, twitter) and if so why? A.M: No as I find it very boring as they are just trying to sell you stuff and prmote things. When you’ve got no money, its not very fun. C.C: Do you think it is important for brands to have social networking sites for you to engage with the brand? A.M: No because I don’t care what they are doing , if I want to buy a coat, I don’t need to listen to what they are saying on their social media. I would say I’m quite anti-digital. C.C: How do you follow current fashion trends? A.M: Go on the website to browse their collection and I like to go on WGSN. I also like style.com. If I go online I like to go on Net-a-Porter. Its quite intimidating going into expensive shops whereas online you don’t have that barrier.
C.C: What high street stores do you shop in? (this doesn’t just have to be related to clothes) G.P: Levi, Diesels, Urban Outfitters, All Saints and Topman occasionally. C.C: On the in store environment in high street stores – what are you feelings on them? G.P: I guess the stores I shop in have a quite cool concept in store and are quite different, so I do like them. C.C: Would you say you are a loyal customer to high street stores? G.P: I’d say I’m loyal to the brands I shop in. Not loyal to the high street.
225.
226. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
C.C: Would you say you usually purchase something when going in store? G.P: No not all the time. C,C: How often to you go clothes shopping? G.P: I’d say once a month. C.C: Would you say you are ethical aware when you are shopping? G.P: No not all – I do feel bad for admitting that though. C.C: Do you ever use online shopping? G.P: Yeah I do sometimes, if I’ve got a lot work on and don’t have enough time. C.C: What do you use online shopping for? Is it to buy clothes, find the best deals? Check if things are in stock? G.P: Usually to buy clothes, I try and purchase when there are sales on. C.C: Would you say you spend more online or offline? G.P: I’d say its pretty even, maybe a little bit more online just as I sometimes import my clothes from America, so I’ve obviously got to pay delivery costs. C.C: Do you prefer shopping online or offline? And if so why? G.P: Online as its easier, there is no faff with having to go into town. C.C: What do you think the high street could offer more? G.P: I guess just better experience, maybe not so much in the stores I shop in but more of a lifestyle in store would be cool. C.C: What for you has been a really memorable shopping experience? And why was this so memorable? For example was it the music, technology the shop had? G.P: I went to a really cool boutique in London, it has such a good atmosphere. C.C: Do you follow any brands on social media (facebook, instagram, twitter) and if so why? G.P: No I don’t actually; I do have all those social networking sites though so not sure why I don’t. C.C: Do you think it is important for brands to have social networking sites for you to engage with the brand? G.P: How do you follow current fashion trends?
227.
228. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
9. appendix 9 229.
230. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
Internet Observations In order to gain more knowledge on the online consumer or prosumer, individual observations were conducted to understand their online habits. All observations were timed for ten minutes on each consumer, giving a good length of time to understand the consumer more. All participants were briefed and signed ethical forms on behalf of Nottingham Trent University to agree to take part in these interviews.
Participant 1: Victoria Marie Length on computer: 10 minutes Victoria loaded up the web and started browsing on Selfridges website, looking at all their offers for Christmas presents, consequently started placing items in her Selfridges basket on her favourite items. This was then repeated, when Victoria went onto Net-a-Porter, where Victoria again placed items in the basket. Participant 2: Fred Tilford Length on computer: 10 minutes Fred went straight onto his favourite brand Reiss, looking at various outfits, as well as checking their social media – looking at various campaigns and competitions. Fred, then decided to try and out various other websites, such as Urban Outfitters and seemed to get agitated when adverts kept asking him to sign up. Consequently Fred closed down the web. Participant 3: Rebecca Marsh Length on computer: 10 minutes Rebecca decided to order her online food shop from Sainsbury’s, again like Victoria, started adding a lot to her basket, however at the end went through and deleted items that she didn’t need. Rebecca liked the promotional items that Sainsbury’s offered her, allowing her to have free delivery on her food shop. Participant 4: Daniel Murch Length on computer: 10 minutes Daniel first loaded up social networking site Facebook, flicking between different friends on his Facebook. Daniel seemed to get bored very quickly, changing the website again, this time going onto his twitter page – Daniel only paused when certain ‘posts’ that his friends had ‘posted’ caught his attention – this seemed to be friends videos. Participant 5: Roxanne Hartley Length on computer: 10 minutes Roxanne loaded up Asos in the aim to find a birthday dress – this proved quite overwhelming with more than 200 pages of options, causing Roxanne to quickly skim the dresses on Asos and opened only two tabs on dresses that she saw. Participant 6: Mandy Rose Length on computer: 10 minutes Mandy was browsing on various luxury fashion websites, however seemed to get annoyed at the introduction films shown and was consequently trying to find the skip button. Participant 7: Connor Hayes Length on computer: 10 minutes Connor went straight onto Youtube when logging onto a computer, this would lead to Connor playing several tunes one after the other. Connor then proceeded to check his University emails – which seemed to annoy him with the constant advertisements that came through – which led to him putting them in his ‘junk’ box. Participant 8: Sophie Smith Length on computer: 10 minutes Sophie decided to log straight on to her favourite high street retailer Zara, proceeding to buy a pair of shoes that she had wanted. Sophie liked how the store offered a free collection, which made her purchase earrings alongside her order – explaining that the earrings would have paid for delivery. Participant 9: Craig Ferrell Length on computer: 10 minutes Craig logged on to Topman, where Craig spent the remaining 10 minutes browsing through the trends that were ‘new in’. Craig seemed very loyal to the brand – even owning his own Topman account and offering his email to sign up requests to get the new trends.
231.
232. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
10. appendix 10 233.
234. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
Investigation An investigation into whether consumers associate with archetypes took place. This including consumers having to recall an advert that they last remembered, to identify whether consumers connect to emotional stories or not. All participants were briefed and signed ethical forms on behalf of Nottingham Trent University to agree to take part in this short study.
Participant 1: C.C: What adverts on the TV that you have watched recently do you remember? F. B: I don’t know the name; I think it’s a dishwasher advert as it’s really annoying. Also Ceaser’s advert, with the old man. Participant 2: C.C: What adverts on the TV that you have watched recently do you remember? G.P: I enjoyed the John Lewis Christmas advert as it told a really nice story and kept me interested the whole way through Participant 3: C.C: What adverts on the TV that you have watched recently do you remember? A.S: I think it’s the Ceasers advert, the one with the dog and old man. Its really sad but makes you feel happy at the same time. Participant 4: C.C: What adverts on the TV that you have watched recently do you remember? K.M: Car adverts – landrover – Mercedes, Misguided / Boho and RSPCA / Wateraid Participant 5: C.C: What adverts on the TV that you have watched recently do you remember? A.M: I think it was the Sainsburys Christmas advert, with the soilder. Also John Lewis and M&S. Participant 6: C.C: What adverts on the TV that you have watched recently do you remember? C.S: That one with the pony dancing is really good. I also love the apple advert as I can play the piano song on it. Participant 7: C.C: What adverts on the TV that you have watched recently do you remember? A.D: Thompsons advert with the ogre, as it had an emotive story line Participant 8: C.C: What adverts on the TV that you have watched recently do you remember? J.G: Id say the John Lewis advert, just because there was so much hype around it Participant 9: C.C: What adverts on the TV that you have watched recently do you remember? E.S: John Lewis as it was really sweet. Also Simples with the racoons.
235.
236. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
11. appendix 11 237.
238. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
Pinterest A Pinterest board was created to give inspiration on print, layout and trend ideas, as well as creating boards to help categorise photo findings.
239..
240. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
12. appendix 12 241.
242. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
tutorial record sheets
243.
244. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
245.
246. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
247.
248. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
249.
250. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
13. appendix 13 251.
252. XXvsXY
XXvsXY
ETHICAL CHECKLIST
253.
254. XXvsXY
XXvsXY