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By Sumeha Khalid
F
ashion Pakistan Week 4 was a much-anticipated affair as the names attached to it are stalwarts of the fashion industry. The council comprised Maheen Khan, the CEO, renowned designer Shamaeel Ansari as chairperson and Deepak Perwani as its creative director. Fashion Pakistan Week has by now gained momentum and has made a niche for itself. The credibility of the said fashion week is its merit and the impeccable record of Pakistan Fashion Council which promotes fashion as a creative, flourishing industry. The council’s far-sighted aims and goals have made it possible for the established and the upcoming designers to be part of the ever-
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expanding business. It has proved to be a platform that has established many designers both locally and overseas, all depending on how talented they are. And Pakistan has no dearth of talent. Spread over a three-day binge of most celebrated and the fledgling, as always, Fashion Pakistan Week 4 created excitement amongst both the participants and those attending the celebrated event. The grand opening however turned out to be a little short of grand as the evening was rather devoid of much fanfare or glamour. The evening got underway with models draped in Sonya Battla outfits taking to the ramp. Battla’s creations like her trademark were minimalist and modern. It is a well known fact that
Sonia Battla has been in the groove since 1996. Her presentations aim to be the mark of high-end luxury fashion in Pakistan, always using only the highest quality fabric to create a mix of modern and revived embroideries, coupled with innovative silhouettes. Next we saw Deepak and Fahad’s squared collection which was a damp squib for sure. Attires based on Kafayas were modelled for the audiences’ benefit. Maimoona Arshad’s collection was titled Last Night. The color palette combined strong and dark shades. Garments directly borrowed from a man’s closet are fused into an eclectic mix with alluring dresses. Ayesha Hassan drew inspiration from the Zeitgeist keeping secrets,
deliberation and hypocrisy - through her collection. Ayesha showed multiple facets of our society, raising a question of moral ethics, keeping in mind the current state of the nation. However, a lot was happening at the same time in her creations. The designer needs to focus on one element of designing and then spin her creations around that element. The second act bought to spotlight Kuki Concepts. Zahid Khan’s western wear collection drew inspiration from the works of famous painter Frank Stella, who was noted for his expertise in the areas of minimalism and post-painterly abstraction. The silhouette was very modern and the colour palette stuck to the bright curve. Nabeela Adeela collection for her label Nargis Hafeez Couture used jamawar, chiffons and gota. The lengths varied from short and edgy, with patayala shalwars and churidars, to mid-lengths with flowey dhaka pajamas and ghararas. Reflecting a design philosophy based on the revival of old crafts, with antique work patterns, heirloom pieces, and Kashmiri embroideries. Next was the Desert Rose by Ishtiaq Afzal Khan. The designer offered his new signature collection inspired by the vast imposing desert. The collection included smart silhouettes, with a cultural touch. This new collection stood out from his previous work, different but sensual, a combination of the modern with the classic. The highlight of the first day of FPW4 was the much loved presentation by Wardha Saleem. This season Wardha Saleem brought back the golden remembrances of times bygone with exemplary artistry and craftsmanship. This was Wardha’s second Fashion Pakistan Week collection titled “Folk Play” and inspired in detail by our heritage traditional folk toys. The dizzying lattu, the spinning paper fan, the stoic gugughora and the naughty ghulail - all came to life in spellbinding colours with her borderline adroit use of textiles, embellished with exclusive and breathtaking digital printing, exquisite embroidery and her masterful use of block printing. All fused to give a feel of richness and fulfillment to the one who adorns a Wardha Saleem creation. Strategically opening the second day of FPW4 was Sanam Choudhry’s ‘KAGE’ inspired by
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‘Shibori’, a Japanese resist-dye technique, Sanam Chaudhri’s new collection was marvelous edgy. The collection boasted bold hues of indigo and white, spun around shades of burnt orange, fiery red and black. Combining casual and refined textures, from cotton to satin, the line positively had an international appeal. The concepts were styled by Maha Burney and Sanam Chaudhri, a winning combo. Following KAGE was Arsalan & Yahser’s showcase inspired by the designers’ love of leather as an integral part of a man’s wardrobe in the winter. Titled “Urban Slick”, the collection comprised genuine leather where needed patched with synthetic leather and leatherette, with minimalist details. The colour palette ranged from black, brown, beige, white, electric blue, grey, to red and maroon. The popular palette in leathers en vogue! And smack in the mid Debenhams was announced showcasing their fall collection. Debenhams collection is a definite must-have. It was remarkable with the perfect combination of dresses and cardigans, jeans and overalls, and, skirts and stockings. Showing contemporary and classic creations by designers such as Jasper Conran, Ben de Lisi and Rocha, ornate, rich fabrics and sequins and embellishments were used to create glamourous styles. For men, the emphasis was on earthy browns and forest greens, highlighted by rust, burnt red and cherry. Aneeka and Salma Cheema’s Baani D is best described as a ‘Desi-Boho’ line of ready-to- wear, combining cultural richness with western styling, focusing on mix and match. Zaheer Abbas’ Virgin was well-noted in white, primarily using cotton with touches of fine net and intricate jute thread designs. Symbolising the transition from romance to desire, the blossoming of love and the formation of identity. Aamir Baig’s “Black O Block” highlighted block prints with cuts and styles that are easy to wear. It was a collection in black for those who dare. Adnan Pardesy’s autum/winter collection was the show wrapper. Pardesi’s Axiomatic redefined the craft of ‘ralli’ and brought a unique perspective to modern day couture. Axiomatic employed various hand-crafted techniques such as weaving, cross-pleating and gathering of ribbons and fabrics. Adnan Pardesy’s collection was complimented by Kiran Aman’s collection Barzakh from her label ‘So KFJ’. Barzakh, with its bold and solid black onyx projections, accentuated by the simple use of 22 karat beaten gold accents, dividing each solid shape
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symmetrically, rendered a reasonable contrast to Pardesy’s colorful play of techniques. The third and final day of FPW4 started with a bang. Do not mistake it to be the bang of a happening show - rather the bang was created by the spellbinding collection presented by the beautiful and talented Maheen Karim. Maheen Karim’s ‘Luxe’ fused military chic together with luxury oriental accents in the form of exquisite hand embroideries and ritzy silks. Plush velvets appliquéd on to glossy georgettes and shaded chiffons made for a chic-stylish winter wardrobe. Clean-cut tailored suits, form-fitting dashing cropped trousers, as well as silk-draped harem pants, paired with military jackets and lace-draped boleros. The spectrum of colours brought together wintry plums, gilded black, bronze, gold, deep maroons, vibrant olives, mustard and magenta. Motifs were hand embroidered with smatterings of swarovskis. The collection was complimented by handbags from Ayesha Mustafa’s Fashion
Compassion and the jewellery was Kiran Aman’s Sceptre’s Of Beauty. And the entire mix had the desired effect in Maheen’s well-prepared and beautifully executed presentation. This segued into Emraan Rajput’s collection for the metrosexual male. Delphi by Nida Tapal and Nargis Kiani’s collection - ‘Pythia’ - named after the priestess of Apollo at Delphi, is the climax of the label Delphi’s journey to date. Chic coats, tunics and cocktail dresses, along with eastern attire was sent down the runway. The diamond and polki jewellery for Delphi had been provided by Naaj. Rizwanullah’s showing was followed by Huma Adnan. Huma’s FnkAsia uses Mughal, Kashmiri, Persian and Afghan influences and combines them with hip and trendy cuts, producing outfits for the modern woman. Misha Lakhani’s namesake young fashion label is the go-to for impeccably crafted clothing that mixes a timeless aesthetic with a modern perspective. The idea behind
the collection was refining the extravagance of old India, by fusing it with an international chic. Film, art deco and vintage craftsmanship have been lifelong inspirations for Misha, who has studied at Central Saint Martins and interned with Bunto Kazmi. Fashion Pakistan Week 4 came to a close with a showcasing of legends along with the designers whose success stories had just begun unfolding. Presenting capusule collections were the incredible Shamaeel Ansari, Amir Adnan, Shehla Chatoor, Sadaf Malaterre, Maheen Khan and Deepak Perwani. FPW 4 had been organized by Catwalk Productions while services of Sab’s Salon had been employed for make-up and grooming. While the event was entertaining to an extent it was however low on celebrity quotient. Not only the showstoppers were missing but one could hardly see any front row celebrities. Here’s wishing the team behind the event the best for the next episode of FPW!
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‘For Food Aficionados’ By Rubia Moghees
C
appuccino finished much sated after a hearty meal; I asked the man behind Maida, Terrace and Grill about his biggest accomplishment. ‘My ability to make a dream into reality’ and the actuality is nothing short of a miracle which is right in front of us, a restaurant which is gaining attention and he himself calls it as his ‘labor of love.’ The aroma of the freshly baked goodies takes you by surprise as one enters this recently opened restaurant which incidentally also offers in house bakery, bread and patisserie. ‘We can pride ourselves on our New York Cheese cake for its authentic taste and it is a must
best to my clients, who I would rather call as my personal guests,’ Mirza gushes.
‘Maida’Locale
have dessert option for anyone who visits the place,’ says Hassaan Mirza. ‘It’s not a commercial venture as I have spared no expense to give the
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Tucked away from the predictable MM.Alam Road, Maida is situated at Qaddafi Stadium which is also a host of numerous desi based food restaurants. This one is different mainly because of its layout, menu selection and ambience. The family oriented restaurant is a haven for anyone who wants to enjoy an evening
out without caring about the usual formalities that are now so often linked to the so-called elitist eateries which are often seen serving alcohol. When Hassaan and wife moved back from abroad; it was the massive travel encounter that ultimately led them to open Tissoro and eventually Maida-terrace and grill. ‘Travel is the greatest privilege and an educative experience too as one is exposed to various cultures, customs and cuisines,’ says Mirza. After having worked in 5 continents and seeing above 30 countries he wanted to bring the best in food to Lahore; which is also his native city.
Setting
Wanted to be an entrepreneur as structured life didn’t suit him; he sat down to explore the market, calculated his strengths and
weaknesses, thus opportunities emerged and ‘Maida’ which is named after his eldest daughter and also means ‘dastarkhaan’ or table spread came into being. The green belt has been given a complete make-over with landscaping done for that first look that leaves a lasting impression. Ideal for the present season, the terrace is a reminiscent of Copa Cabana beach side-walk of Rio de Janeiro. Whereas the setting of a garden in the middle is a replica of the inner courtyard of Alhamra Palace of Spain, reveals Hassan Mirza. ‘I am a thorough professional when it comes to satisfying the demands of the customers, whatever one takes up it should be done to your best ability.’
undoubtedly confirms the arrival of this restaurant in a big way.
Global Cuisine
Attention to minutest detail is what that gives a place its individuality; as is seen here. A restaurant doesn’t work if it lags in the food section and Hassaan Mirza has ensured that the quality is maintained. ‘Every customer is critically important for us so we have kept a vast array of cuisines so that it has a bit of everything for everyone,’ a pumpedup Mirza divulges. The Brunch, American, French and English platters are served till 2am and are a good offering coupled with
Ambience
The Interiors say a lot about his obsession with perfection while offering the best in quality to any one who walks in. The couple did the interiors themselves and is a reflection of their per sonalities. The color of royalty ‘purple’ and hues of it are extensively used amongst a mélange of mosaic tiles; textured walls, special silver cutlery stands out amongst the granite top tables which are imported exclusively from around the world. However, it is the lighting fixtures that take the final bow for their dazzling affect. Hassaan Mirza’s favorite quotations of Molana Rumi, Mohammad Ali Jinnah, Kahlil Gibran and others are framed and displayed on the walls explaining a lot about the man and his vision. The upper portion of the restaurant deserves a special mention for its unique setting of chairs which gives a very cozy feel. The black crockery, silver charger plates, immaculately finished washrooms and the specially formulated menu book
complimentary Twinings tea and Orange juice. My personal favorite Tom Yum Goong- a Thai spicy soup with shrimps and lemongrass was a real treat for anyone who can sustain a bit of spice. Moving on to the appetizers and we couldn’t help trying the traditional Lebanese Humus with tahina dip and stuffed egg-plants with a mixture of chicken and cheese. Went twice with family to check out the food it was unanimously decided that the pan fried dumplings were simply divine. Also, on the menu list were the Buffalo boneless wings and Calamari tempura. The apple walnut salad was a bit bland and apples were not that crunchy which was brought to the
notice of waiter. The specially baked bread baked at ‘Maida’ makes the sandwiches and burgers like Cheese and Jalepeno beef burger and Roast beef and mushroom subs a complete delight. All of these and many others are served with a side of French fries and coleslaw. ‘Having had the exposure of the world’s cuisines we hope that it should be good enough for the Lahore’s taste buds.’ The pastas pizzas are cooked in olive oil and are accompanied with a variety of toppings and sauces. Prepared on stainless steel skewers at an enclosed charcoal grill station to ensure hygiene, Maida’s grill and barbeque dishes like shish taouk, lamb Kafta Meshwi, Grilled baby Hamour (whole fish grilled with spices and herbs) are worth a try. We also managed to try the subcontinental dishes like the lamp chops and Rajhastani chicken but focused more on continental items like the crispy herb chicken and Tamarind fish which tasted great when gulped with mint margherita. A variety of Japanese teppanyaki and Middle Eastern dishes are also available which none of us were able to try but are highly recommended by the chef. The dessert section is full of mouth watering recipes such as pies, cakes, shakes and smoothies for sweet tooth buff. However, we were contended with our pick of cappuccino and Espresso. ‘If the standard is good enough for me than it should be for the customers too.’ ‘I will shut off and walk away if the quality of the place goes down and am unable to maintain it,’ says a very determined Mirza who believes that sooner or later the place will get noticed for its being family oriented, having a classy feel and the choicest variety of food.
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Books
Of philosophy and literature By Syed Afsar Sajid
P
hilosophy and literature are not distant kin. Assuming that the ‘poetics’ of philosophy and the philosophy of poetics are mutually inter/intra-related, this review is meant to cover two such publications; first, a translated version of the renowned Arab Islamic philosopher Al-Kindi’s philosophical works, and second, a collection of Pakistani literature rendered in English under the auspices of the Pakistan Academy of Letters.
The philosophical works of Al-Kindi
Abu Yusuf Yaqub ibn Ishaq asSabbah al-Kindi (c. 801-873 CE) was an Arab philosopher with varied but keen interest in optics, astronomy, medicine, chemistry, mathematics, cryptography, metaphysics and the music theory. He was the first of the Muslim peripatetic philosophers, widely acclaimed as the ‘father of Islamic or Arabic philosophy’ or ‘Philosopher of the Arabs’. He made an invaluable contribution to the synthesis, adaptation and promotion of Greek and Hellenistic philosophy in the Muslim world, purportedly under the influence of Aristotle (384–322 BC), Plotinus (204-270 CE), Proclus (412-485 CE) and Philoponus. He had a role in introducing Indian numerals to the Islamic and Christian world. He demonstrated compatibility
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b e t w e e n philosophy and natural theology on one hand, and revealed or speculative theology on the other hand. Thus he made Greek thought accessible and acceptable to a Muslim audience. The book in hand comprises the whole of al-Kindi’s philosophical corpus (some two dozen works) available in English, most of them registering their maiden appearance. It is therefore an astounding attempt to popularize al-Kindi’s philosophical and scientific ideas. It is one of a series of ‘Studies in Islamic Philosophy’, with S. Nomanul Haq
The philosophical works of Al-Kindi By Peter Adamson & Peter E. Pormann General Editor: S. Nomanul Haq Publisher: Oxford University Press Pakistan Pages: 363; Price: Rs.995/-
The Pakistani Literature’s quality would not generally seem to conform to its avowed aims and objectives as a standard literary journal in the English language representing our literary, cultural and folk heritage in the cosmopolitan context of its (English) age-long linguistic and literary traditions as its general editor who ‘novel and fascinating’ has published widely in discussions of some vital the areas of ‘the history ethical-cum-metaphysical of philosophy and issues together with science, environmental those related to theology, philosophy, as well as cosmology, medicine and cultural history’. other physical sciences The authors of need to be read carefully the publication Peter in order to comprehend Adamson and Peter E. his philosophy in a wide Pormann are professors academic context. of ancient and medieval Pakistani philosophy at King’s Literature College, London and Volume 15th of the classics and Graecojournal is out. It contains Arabic studies at the a selection of poetic University of Manchester and prose works, among respectively. Both of them others, of M. Salim-urare recognized scholars Rehman, Ejaz Rahim, of the Greek and Arabic Alamgir Hashmi, Waqas traditions with their Khawaja, Reginald Massey, impact on philosophy Natasha Iqbal, Raja Tridev and medicine et al. Roy, Dr, Anwar Dil, Irfan They have attempted to Javed, Abdul Hameed, Dr. translate and elucidate Ayesha Jalal, and a few ‘the philosophical fruits’ translated short stories of of al-Kindi’s labour in Manto. English to enlarge his Whereas the readership amid a multipublication of the ethnic audience with magazine reflects the or without a formal Academy Chairman’s initiation in philosophy. Pakistani Literature genuine interest in The authors have also Editor: Sumaira Baqer reinforcing its image as generously acknowledged Publisher: The Pakistan Academy of Letters, Islamabad a viable national forum the influence of the two of multi-lingual literary distinguished scholars Pages: 172; Price: Rs. 100/activity, its (the magazine’s) of Islamic history and quality would not philosophy Charles generally seem to conform Burnett (of the Warburg ‘Systematising Philosophy’ apart Institute, University of London) from biography, bibliography and to its avowed aims and objectives as and Fritz Zimmermann (of the some general features common to a standard literary journal in the English language representing our Oriental Institute, St. Cross such publications. Being the first literary, cultural and folk heritage College, University of Oxford) on the genesis of their joint publication translation of al-Kindi’s almost in the cosmopolitan context of its all philosophical writings into (English) age-long linguistic and on al-Kindi. The book is divided into English, in his capacity as the first literary traditions. There is a need therefore to refive sections entitled ‘God and philosopher in the Islamic world, Eternity’, ‘The Soul and the the historical importance of his vitalize the editorial team to meet Mind’, ‘The Cosmos’, ‘Ethics’, and works can hardly be gainsaid. His this end.
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