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your complete guide to
gifts, food, competitions & more... 5/31/2012 12:19:35 PM
Purpose built in 1892
10 acres of headland
For a relaxing break in an amazing location by the sea, look no further than the Atlantic Hotel in Newquay.
Set within the grounds of the Atlantic Hotel, Silks Bistro & Champagne Bar’s stylish interior and excellent food make it the perfect place to relax and enjoy at any time of day or night. So Sushi, a unique dining experience with the first authentic sushi conveyor belt in Newquay. Sushi making lessons are held on Wednesday, Thursday and Friday lunchtimes. £8 per person – booking essential. Lunch 12.00-3.00, Dinner 6.00-9.00. Closed Sundays.
The brand new Seafood Bar serving fresh local seafood including crab and lobster. Enjoy with a light salad or as a larger meal.
The Italian serves traditional Italian food in a relaxed atmosphere.
www.atlantichotelnewquay.co.uk / 01637 839048 Dane Road, Newquay, TR7 1EN
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5/30/2012 10:19:49 AM
HELLO
Greetings Welcome to our summer edition of Love Cornwall. As the nation marks the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee we have decided to step back in time and cast a nostalgic glance over the last 60 years of life here in Cornwall.
Nana Elsie, Judith & Em
ma
We have raided our family archives and personal photo albums for pictures and memorabilia of life in the county. Some real classics have emerged from attics and bottom drawers from St Just to Bude and Launceston to the Isles of Scilly. Woollen swim suits, grannies in floral frocks and athletic young men making human pyramids on the beach, it’s all here. We had a laugh, we hope you do too. Aside from the sheer charm of a vanished age, all the photos share that elusive quality that draws visitors to Cornwall in growing numbers, year after year – the promise of happy memories forged from good times in a beautiful place. And that’s what this guide is all about. We have set out in an easy pocket-size format the best of what the Duchy has to offer its summer visitors. From the food to the sights we cover Cornwall’s best-see, must-do, must-try highlights in this special Jubilee year. For although the pictures may have faded, Cornwall’s attractions remain untarnished.
Happy Holidays
When you have finished with this brochure please recycle. All information included in this brochure is correct at the time of printing. However events are sometimes subject to change and cancellation. If you would like to advertise with us in future publications of Love Summer in Cornwall or any of our other publications please call 0845 6060311. Editorial Jude Barrand Advertising Holly Barber Photography Our thanks to the many generations of Cornwall’s residents holiday-makers who lent us their photos and photographer Jonathan Jacobs. Design Cornwall & Devon Creative Hub (www.creativehubs.co.uk). Produced by Cornwall and Devon Media, publishers of:
TWEET TWEET! FOLLOW US ON TWITTER
@LoveSummerCDM
A kiss for every star in the sky way above. You’ll always be my one and only summer love.
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LOVE SUMMER IN CORNWALL / 01
5/31/2012 12:25:31 PM
WELCOME
More than two million people come to Cornwall for the summer holidays, and the county’s popularity is on the rise. Prime Minister David Cameron regularly comes down to St Endellion, near Port Isaac, with his family, and last year Hollywood A-listers Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie spent time with their children in Falmouth. But the celebrity visitors only confirm what millions already know. Cornwall is a very special place. With the staycation officially being endorsed this year by the government, and a sudden rash of programmes about Cornwall on the box, what better time to discover the land over the Tamar. From its truly awe-inspiring coastline to its ancient Celtic heritage Cornwall offers its visitors a rare wealth of natural and manmade beauty and history. Add to that the sub-tropical climate, the burgeoning food scene, the artists’ colonies and the world-class beaches, you realise one holiday just isn’t going to be enough!
‘ansum!
The Giant Cornish Pasty only. Not available with any other offer or discount. Subject to availability. Only available in Rowe’s high street outlets. No photocopies. Offer is valid until 30th August 2012.
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The whole object of travel is not to set foot on foreign land; it is at last to set foot on one’s own country as a foreign land. G.K. Chesterton
Summer lovin’ had me a blast - summer lovin’ happened so fast.
5/30/2012 2:08:47 PM
CONTENTS
Sea fever 4
Green and pleasant land
Cornwall’s best beaches
Morning campers!
37 38
9
Best camp sites in Cornwall
12
Learn something new
On your bike 14
For the kids 18
Cornwall for children If it’s raining
From the past 26
Historic Cornwall
Olympics 30
Interview
Must see
Must visit
Take care
52 55 56 58 62 64 66 68 70
Rain, rain go away 20
Gift ideas
46
Cornish cycle trails
Feeling peckish 74 76 78 80 82 86
40 45
Give it a go
Cornwall’s microclimate Gardens of Cornwall Gifts Summer essentials Jenny Agutter
Lizard Penzance St Ives Falmouth Newquay Padstow St Mawes Fowey Truro
90
Eat out for under £10 Fine dining Best fish and chips in Cornwall Dog friendly eateries Restaurant listings The best Cornish ice cream
96
What’s on
Stay safe
Olympic torch relay
Delving deeper 31
Mining in Cornwall
Myth and legend 33
Celtic Cornwall
Lelant Sand Dune
s, 1958
I met a girl, crazy for me - I met a boy, cute as can be.
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9
stow, 195
each, Pad
Tregirls B
LOVE SUMMER IN CORNWALL / 03
5/28/2012 4:49:26 PM
BEST BEACHES
E F V ER A E S o
, Porthcurn
Kate & Ben
I must go down to the sea again, for the call of the running tide Is a wild call, and a clear call that may not be denied; And all I ask is a windy day with the white clouds flying And the flung spray, and the blown foam, and the sea-gulls crying. John Masefield
Sennen
Cove, 193
6
Cornwall has 296.2 miles of some of the most beautiful and varied coastline in Britain. From great granite cliffs to wooded creeks, from sand dunes to fortified harbours, Cornwall’s coastline is a magnificent mantle around the peninsula. The intensely blue sea, warmed by the Gulf Stream, is the mildest temperature-wise you’ll find in the British Isles; and a whole range of facilities are available on shore to help you enjoy the coastline to the full.
h, 1998
Crantock Beac
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Everyone delights to spend their summer’s holiday.
5/28/2012 4:09:19 PM
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BEST BEACHES
G
iven that Cornwall is surrounded by water on three sides, there are literally hundreds of beaches and coves – all of them captivating in their own way. They range from the tiny swimming and fishing cove of Porthgwarra near Land’s End, with its tunnel to the boat slipway cut through the living rock – to the broad expanses of firm sand favoured by surfers, such as Crooklets and Widemouth Bay up near Bude. There are so many great beaches in Cornwall it’s simply not possible to list them all, but here’s a short list of some of the best.
DAYMER BAY, ROCK A long, sheltered stretch of golden sand about one mile south of Polzeath is ideal for families. Children can hunt for marine life in the many rock pools and paddle safely on the shore. Noted for its windsurfing and other watersports, this is also an ideal spot to watch the local dinghy races and take in the beautiful scenery of the Camel Estuary.
GWITHIAN TOWANS, HAYLE This beach is essentially the middle part of the extensive Hayle Towans stretch of coast which covers many miles from Hayle to Godrevy. Backed by dunes with rocky patches at low water, the sands of Gwithian Towans are perfect for those wanting to escape the crush on smaller beaches. The great, but not massive, surf means it’s also a popular beach for novice surfers and boogie boarders. A nearby wetsuit and board shop can help beginners with their gear.
SENNEN COVE, LAND’S END This long and lovely beach is one of the nation’s favourites. It enjoys big seas and good surf – especially when the wind’s from the west. The collection of fisherman’s cottages add to the charm of the place.
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KYNANCE COVE, THE LIZARD On a sunny summer’s day the coast here could easily be confused with some Mediterranean island. The jagged rock formations, brilliant golden sands and cliffs make this an unforgettable stop. The gently shelving and clear, sandy seabed make it a great place for children learning to swim. It’s a 10 minute walk downhill from the National Trust car park on the cliff top.
PORTHCURNO, WEST PENWITH This beautiful beach is just below the world famous classically-inspired outdoor Minack Theatre. It is beautiful and popular with locals and visitors alike. The fine white sand covers about half a mile, and at low tide you can wander to the neighbouring coves. This spot is also renowned for being the terminus of the Oceanic Commonwealth Cable System. The first cable carrying a telephone connection from here to Bombay was laid in 1870.
TOWAN BEACH, PORTH FARM, THE ROSELAND This remote and beautiful spot on the way to St Anthony’s Lighthouse is accessed through some National Trust barns and a sea-grass strewn sandy path down to the beach. The scenic views and wide open beach on the more sheltered east coast make it a wonderful spot for families in search of good paddling and rock pools.
BEDRUTHAN STEPS The dramatic framing of the stacks of mostly Devonian slate add to the austere beauty of this wild stretch of coast. The beach is accessed via a staircase in the cliffs and down at sea level you find marooned shards of rock being pounded by the surf – a real life example of erosion at work. The stairs are tricky, and the location isolated which means this beach is a good place to escape the summer crush. To get there, head eight miles north of Newquay on the B3276.
PERRANPORTH, SOUTH OF NEWQUAY The great Atlantic rollers thunder down on to this vast beach in the winter months. In the summer, the power in the waves makes for great surfing and body boarding. There are large caves to explore, and the beach is backed by the expanse of Perran Sands, one of Britain’s most extensive sand dune systems. The more than three miles of sandy beach can get windy and wind breaks are invaluable for keeping the sand out of the sandwiches. There are lifeguard patrols in the summer. The Watering Hole café in the dunes is great for drinks and snacks, with food served all day until 9pm.
POLKERRIS NEAR FOWEY This popular sandy cove is sheltered at one end by an old stone harbour wall and is home to Sam’s on The Beach, a great café that specialises in serving fresh, local sea food. The beautiful waters make for excellent swimming and snorkelling. Signed off the A3082 St Austell to Fowey road.
CRANTOCK, NEWQUAY This beach is over on the opposite side of the Gannel estuary to Newquay. Like Fistral on the other side, the great expanse of golden sand is a wonderful place to surf. Strong currents mean it is not suitable for swimming. Find it by heading out of Newquay on the A3075.
Down beside the side of the silvery sea.
5/30/2012 2:21:07 PM
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MORNING CAMPERS
Best Camp Sites in Cornwall The vast night sky, the bright stars, the deep silence – bar the sound of the sea or the odd hooting of a hunting owl: there are plenty of camp sites in Cornwall that take you away from it all. At this time of the year many farmers allow campers to pitch in their fields. Aside from offering a taste of life on the farm, some have spectacular views and beach access you wouldn’t otherwise get to enjoy. Here are some campsites that have been tried and tested and come highly recommended.
SOUTH PENQUITE FARM, BLISLAND ON BODMIN MOOR South Penquite is a two hundred acre family organic beef and sheep farm situated in the heart of Cornwall – high on Bodmin Moor between the villages of Blisland and St Breward. There are no marked pitches, and no ‘pack ‘em in’ mentality. Instead campers are given the space to stretch out and even – camping heaven – light their own camp fire. Then there are the extras – standing stones with reputed healing powers, fishing in the moorland river that runs through the farm, bushcraft courses… the list goes on. Great local produce is sold on site, or it’s a short walk to the village stores. Because it’s a working farm dogs aren’t allowed, but as luck would have it there’s a kennels next door. Adults £8 a night and children under 16 £4 a night. Under 5s are free. South Penquite Farm, Blisland, Bodmin, Cornwall (www.southpenquite.co.uk, 01208 850491). TROYTOWN FARM, ISLES OF SCILLY This farm on St Agnes gets booked out quite early on, the panoramic views across the Western Rocks, Bishop Rock Lighthouse and a group of uninhabited islets make an unforgettable backdrop. The campsite runs down to the shore and tents can be pitched virtually on the sand. The farm has a small dairy herd that provides the main raw ingredient for their fabulous, homemade ice cream which can be bought at the farm shop. £8.50 per person per night. Children under three are free. Troytown Farm, St Agnes, Isles of Scilly, TR22 0PL. (www.troytown.co.uk, 01720 422360). THE CERENETY ECO CAMPSITE, NEAR BUDE Cerenety Eco Campsite offers quiet camping with solar and windpowered showers and compost toilets so that you can be happy in the knowledge that your holiday is having a limited impact on the environment. Set in seven acres of fields, there are also tame sheep, alpacas, ponies, chickens and rabbits on site. Firewood is also available for those who enjoy a camp fire. The peaceful set-up is just a 15-minute walk from Bude and the town’s beaches, or a two-minute walk from the tranquil Bude Canal. Cerenety Eco Camping, Lower Lynstone Lane, Bude, EX23 0LR. Prices vary depending on time and equipment, but are good value even at peak holiday times. (www.cerenetycampsite.co.uk, 01288 356778 or 07789 718446).
Camp fire’s burning, camp fire’s burning.
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LOVE SUMMER IN CORNWALL / 09
5/31/2012 11:07:01 AM
MORNING CAMPERS
NAMPARRA CAMPSITE, THE LIZARD
TREEN FARM NEAR LAND’S END
My word this place is lovely! Set in a six acre meadow next to the coastal path and some of Cornwall’s most beautiful coves and beaches (Kennack Sands, Poltesco, Cadgwith) here the gentle pace of life really starts to sink in. This family-run site has great facilities and a “quirky” bar in a cow shed complete with pool table and straw on the ground. There are no formal pitches, so you can camp pretty much where you like. You can light a camp fire or if you prefer there are some chimeneas that guests are welcome to use free of charge. Well behaved dogs are welcome. A standard pitch costs £15 in summer and includes 2 adults and three children in the price. Namparra Campsite, Kuggar, Nr Helston,TR12 7LY. (www.namparracampsite.co.uk, 01326 290040).
The wild and unspoilt location of this family-run camp site has loyal fans. Some regulars have been coming back to this beautiful campsite for 50 years. Treen Farm is an organic dairy farm that’s been in the same family for five generations. The site also has a stirring history. It was commandeered by the RAF and used as a radar station in WWII. But nothing detracts from the beautiful views over Logan Rock. A string of lovely, sandy beaches (Pedn-vounder, Porthcurno and Porth Chapel) are easy walking distance from the site, the famed Minack Theatre is just around the corner and the coast path is on the door step.
PRUSSIA COVE CARAVAN AND CAMPING, PENZANCE This understated campsite is all about simplicity. With beautiful Prussia Cove a short walk away you don’t really need anything else. The views alone do more for body and soul than any old hotel and spa. Removed from everything, perched above the coast path stretching between the Lizard Peninsula and Penzance this is a magical and peaceful place. Add to that the family-friendly facilities and great loos and showers and you have a winning combination. Prussia Cove Caravan & Camping, Prussia Cove, Penzance, TR20 9BA. (01736 762014). CORNISH TIPI HOLIDAYS, PENDOGGET, ST KEW This place offers a paradigm shift as well as a camping holiday. Off grid, carbon neutral and nestled in a 16-acre woodland valley, this is a holiday experience that takes everything very slowly. The site has 40 tipis of varying sizes equipped with camping holiday basics. Warm Turkish rugs and lanterns on poles are some of the additional touches. At the centre of the site there’s a spring-fed lake where guests can boat, fish and relax. Untouched by modern farming chemicals, flowers and butterflies, birds and mammals all thrive here. As, we’re told, do the guests. This is far from a budget option, but prices drop after the peak summer season. Prices also vary according to the size of the tipi. Cornish Tipi Holidays, Tregeare, Pendoggett, St Kew, PL30 3LW. (www.cornishtipiholidays.co.uk, 01208 880781). BAY VIEW FARM, ST MARTIN’S, LOOE This campsite has wonderful sea views overlooking Looe and St George’s Island. Just outside the campsite entrance, the coast path leads off to Millendreath Beach and on to Looe and Polperro in one direction and in the other direction to Bodigga Cliff and Seaton. Prize winning shire horses are also on the site – they are almost as popular as the views. In peak season a pitch costs £22. Two adults and two children are included in the price. Bay View Farm, St Martins, Looe, PL13 1NZ. (www.looebaycaravans.co.uk, 01503 265922).
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Home produced un-pasteurised milk, yoghurt and organic eggs, can be purchased from the farm, along with other staples. Well behaved dogs are welcome. Great facilities round off a perfect package. Adults £4.50 per person, per night. Children £3 per night and under fours are free. Treen, St Levan, Penzance, TR19 6LF. (www.treenfarmcampsite.co.uk, 07598 469322). BEACON COTTAGE FARM NEAR ST AGNES Situated in an area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and right on the Heritage Coast at St Agnes Beacon, this camp site combines fascinating local history with magical views and abundant wildlife. This site is part of a traditional working family farm of around 400 acres. The coastal path runs right past and it’s a haven for walkers, conservationists, photographers and bird watchers. Another scenic footpath links the campsite to the pretty village of St Agnes just one and a half miles away. A pitch is £22 a night and includes two people in the price. Beacon Cottage Farm, Beacon Drive, St Agnes, TR5 0NU. (www.beaconcottagefarmholidays.co.uk, 01872 552347 or 07879413862). CORNWALL’S CREALY ADVENTURE PARK, NR WADEBRIDGE Camping and an adventure holiday all rolled in to one make this a great option if you’re trying to entertain children while holidaying under canvas. This caravan park has more than 40 pitches, 20 with electric hook up and water connection. Campers also have access to the rides during opening hours throughout their stay. A sea monster and a log flume ride are two of the main attractions. Family pitch rates are £25 in the peak summer season. Crealy Great Adventure Park, Tredinnick, Wadebridge, PL27 7RA. (cornwallfun@crealy.co.uk, 01841 540276).
Draw nearer, draw nearer.
5/30/2012 2:30:31 PM
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5/31/2012 1:09:04 PM
1
2
GIVE IT A GO
© Dom Rodwell
SEA FISHING
SURF LESSONS
Down on Padstow Quay is the Angling Centre. This place is heaven for anyone keen on fishing. Owner Ed Schliffke and his expert staff know every nook and cranny of the North Cornwall coastline and can help both novices and experts get the most out of their fishing experience. Apart from stocking a vast array of fishing tackle the team can give you tips on what species can be found where, and the best tides to catch them on. (01841 532762).
Surfing lessons with the pros at Newquay. You may be a complete novice or an elite level surfer, either way the BSA qualified instructors at Escape Surf School will help you improve. Sessions start from £30 for two hours. (www.escapesurfschool.co.uk, 07810 805624).
DO SOMETHING NEW
3 4
Cornwall’s fantastic mix of the arts, the great outdoors and its heritage means there’s a vast range of new and exciting experiences to be tried down here. So what do we suggest?
CAMEL VALLEY VINEYARD, WINE TASTING
Give your palate something to appreciate on this guided tour and wine tasting from Cornwall’s Camel Valley Vineyard. A tour around the site is £12 per person including wine - or you can even stay at the vineyard for a full immersion experience. Reservations required for the guided tour and booking needed to stay on-site. (www.camelvalley.com).
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THE SOUTH WEST COAST PATH
5
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air. Ralph Waldo Emerson
Walk Cornwall’s sensational coastline. This is one of the best hiking routes in the country and happily its entire length can be enjoyed on foot for free. The South West Coast Path starts in Minehead in Somerset and follows the coastline all the way round the South West passing through Devon and Cornwall and back up again on the other side to Poole in Dorset. The whole thing is 630 miles long, but if you just do the Cornish section it’s a slightly more manageable 296 miles! Whether you do the whole lot, or just venture a couple of metres to find a picnic spot, this beautiful and elemental experience will reward your effort. (www.southwestcoastpath.com).
KITE SURFING & COASTEERING Kite buggying, power kiting, coasteering and sailing are just some of the activities on offer at JB Kite Surfing in St Ives. The team offers everything from adrenaline days out to extra coaching. Prices range from £18 an hour for power kiting to £50 for a multi activity day. “We go out with people and help them get more out of the experience,” says Julius, who runs the operation. “We like to help people get as much enjoyment and proficiency as possible.” (www.jbkitesurfing.co.uk, 01736 794001).
Wake up its a beautiful morning. Feel the sun shining for your eyes.
5/29/2012 8:18:25 AM
Truro & Penwith College www.challengermarine.co.uk &
SU AN M NU AV MER AL AIL BE AB RT LE HS
01872 267122
www.truro-penwith.ac.uk
MARINE ENGINEERING
SURF SCHOOL
Learn to surf at Church Cove, Gunwalloe South West Cornwall T: 01326 240517 E: barefootsurf@live.co.uk www.barefootkitchen.com INBOARD, DRIVES & OUTBOARDS YACHT BROKERAGE
National Trust ambassador business BAREFOOT
CHANDLERY RIB & INFLATABLE SALES MARINA BERTHING & YARD STORAGE
Challenger Marine Ltd, Freemans Wharf, Falmouth Rd, Penryn TR10 8AD | 01326 377222 n, 1985
Luke Hendy, Porthtowa
Wake up its so beautiful. For what could be the very last time.
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LOVE SUMMER IN CORNWALL / 13
5/30/2012 3:14:18 PM
ON YOUR BIKE
CORNISH CYCLE TRAILS It really doesn’t matter what shape you are in, Cornwall has great cycle trails for all abilities. Many of the trails are traffic-free. The views are all incredible. What better way to unwind and see Cornwall? Here are some we whole-heartedly recommend.
THE CAMEL T
If you want to take it easy, then there’s the perfectly flat Camel Trail linking the towns of Padstow, Wadebridge and Bodmin.
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RAIL
It’s not hard to find This beautiful cycle places that pride the pat h follows the rou mselves on their homemade, te of an old railway line, and organic and reason what a railway jou ably priced food. rney that must have been! This is one of the most popular recreational routes The traffic-free trail in the whole of the is ideal for family cyc British Isles, and once you ling and is level almost all the ’re on it, it’s easy way from Padstow to see why. to Bodmin. The terrain is slightl The Camel Trail run y more challenging s 11 miles from Pa (and muddy after rains) dstow along the Camel Est bet ween Bodmin and uar y to Wadebridge Wenford Bridge. Don’t let thi and then on to Bodmin throu s put you off though gh some of the mo , this part of the trail is hugely st beautiful and tranquil countr rewarding as it ski yside Cornwall ha rts the edge of Bodmin Moor and s to offer. There’s also an ext passes the Blisland ended trail that con Inn, a gre tinu at es pub in a lovely mo seven miles up to Wenford orl and village. Bridge. You can The trail passes thr hire bic ycles in all three towns along ough the coastal sce trail. Here are som the ner y around Padstow e suggestions. wit h hidden coves and amazing wildlife as well as Br idg e Bike Hire, dunes on the Rock side of the est uar y – to the The Camel Trail, Wa sylvan woods and debridge, PL27 7A mi ni L. water falls of the upp (www.bridgebikeh er Camel Valley bet ire.co.uk, 01208 81 ween 3050). Wadebridge and Bo dmin. Trail Bike Hire , Look out for the wo Unit 6, South Quay, rld famous Camel Padstow, PL28 8B Valley Vineyard which bac L. (w ww .trailbikehire.co.uk, ks on to the trail. 01841 532594). This award winning set-up lea ves its gate open Bo dm in Bikes, to allow trailusers access to the ir site. Along with 3 Hamley Court, De something nnison Road, more thirst quench ing you can also try Bodmin, PL31 2LL some of the . locally produced tip ples. (www.bodminbike s.co.uk, 01208 73 192). Finding good food is no problem. Padst More information is available at ow is famed for its eateri es and Wadebridge www.visitcornwall. com. and Bodmin also have lovely cafés wit h gre at menus.
Hot town, summer in the city. Back of my neck getting dirty and gritty.
5/31/2012 11:16:18 AM
For the slightly more adventurous, there’s the Coast to Coast trail along the route of the old mineral tramways.
The journey takes you from the quiet creeks at Devoran on the east coast to the wild Atlantic at Portreath over the county’s heavily mined backbone.
ts the heart t of Portreath ge The climb back ou ple of nice cou a are re the t pumping a bit, bu u can get a seafront where yo cafés down on the . Not far ain ag me ho u get yo for tifying lunch to from ck sna at u can get a gre a from Devoran yo e Shop. They do Hir cle Cy d an s Bissoe Tramway t. fas ak bre delicious all -day : To hire a bike try Hire, ays and Cycle Bissoe Tramw 4 8QZ. TR ro, Tru , , Bissoe Old Conns Works 870341). 2 87 01 lehire.com, (www.cornwallcyc For food try: fe Bar, The Atlantic Ca eath, TR14 4NN. rtr Po | t The Seafron 3490). r.co.uk, 01209 84 ba afe (www.atlanticc
AST TRAIL COAST TO CO uses and mining
past engine ho This dramatic trail Portreath on cliffs and sands of the s link es landscap d harbour an inl tic coast with the Cornwall’s Atlan . ek Cre et gu on str of Devoran on Re mer tramway is made from a for The 11-mile trail e Copper ‘Th as n ow kn a an are richest – built to ser ve the of e on s wa day, this s used Kingdom’. In its wa e lin m tra e world. Th st for mining areas in the coa the to per ore down to transport the cop shipping north. rial past ’s incredible indust Relics of Cornwall and a vast cks sta ey mn chi y– pepper this journe nd out. sta t tha hts of the sig viaduct are some does go up it h ug tho e, fairly gentl The main trail is mel Trail. Ca e Th n deal more tha and down a good
Or if you really want a good workout there’s The Cornish Way which connects Land’s End to Bude in the north of the county. couple of pubs stores and a With a village refreshment, nd fi to e is a good plac is th more variety h uc uay has m THE SAINTIL though Newq PIRAN TRA and choice. d ell Downs an l on minor crosses Denz -mile route, al it re He The trail then w. This scenic 34 Truro to Bodmin passing to ds r Camel at Pa m ich follows joins the Rive roads, goes fro wh il Tra el m the Ca uay. is st age) merges with through Newq ercifully (at th Quiet unning and m e designated st th e on th f of e ts th s It st ar ro toward land. ad out of Tru flat estuar y in me Lanes that he . There are so ss le your trip: Id on of try ge Places to gent le villa re in Idless he d ha be to tcher s, lovely walk s the Forest ry L. George Bu are owned by uay, TR8 5LQ your right yn East, Newq Woods, which on wl 0219). Ne em . th St ss pa ou .uk, 01872 51 (Y .co n. ers io ch gh iss ut thou Comm (www.lgeorgeb e village). Al on th b of Pu t ll ou Ba r ad a as you he ride, it’s also ur try the Silve For local colo n depict s iles in to your sig Its b. m lu only three m ic. St Co stop for a picn Fair St reet in rling which good place to of Cornish Hu s cross-country ancient game er e . Stop for nd th se wa el e re ut he e ro yw beautiful From here th but died ever e l th al s to inat ing ha es sc ap fa l landsc arn about the ere’s the through rura a drink and le ast 1,000 East where th le yn at wl ck Ne ba St s e date ge parish of orge, opposit custom that Shrovetide hu butcher, L. Ge year around great family past ies and ing to ar s. Twice a us try ye io lic wn to de e g th llin through the church se en es. teams charge tional sausag all sized wood to a cricket-b fant astic tradi on ng ha to s ile The idea is to m r. w ve fe sil a n th ai wi s ag sphere coated ry to score. Then onward e, vibrant café parish bounda th its surf scen t it across the trail ge e e town visit Newquay, wi Th th t s. ou he ab ac ion unning be t more informat ke r ar Fo m culture and st d ol e b.org.uk. s inland to th www.stcolum then cont inue lumb Major. Co St of wn to Been down, isn’t it a pity. Doesn’t seem to be a shadow in the city.
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The 204-mile journey goes through historic towns and fishing villages and passes great cultural landmarks like The Clay Country and The Eden Project.
THE CORNISH WAY
Now this is a trail for the serio us cyclist. The 204-mile Cornish Way goes from Land’s End to Bude and is a breathtaking ride. The trail is part of National Rout e 3 of the National Cycle Network and cont inues on all the way up to Bristol. In addition to taking you on a journey through Cornwall’s class ic sight s, the mediaeval harbours , the market towns, the mining herit age and the picture-postcar d beaches you also get a choic e of two routes. One takes you on the Clay Trails , a series of traffic-free routes around the Eden Project and the nearby Lost Gardens of Heligan. The other takes you on a simil ar length route to action-packed Newquay. The Route split s at Truro and joins up again at Bodm in. To help you plan your trip try thes e useful websites: National Cycle Network Charity: www.sustrans.org.uk. The official tourist board onlin e visitor guide: www.visitcornwall.com.
LOVE SUMMER IN CORNWALL / 15
5/31/2012 11:29:15 AM
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Cornish
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“ Join the great cream tea debate ‌ do you prefer jam or cream first? Here in
Cornwall we traditionally put the jam first, followed by a generous dollop of cream, but our neighbours over the border in Devon are said to enjoy the cream first, then jam. Log on to our Facebook page to tell us how you eat yours.
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21/05/2012 5/29/2012 9:03:11 11:17 AM
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This spring The National Trust produced a list of 50 Things To Do Before You’re 11 ¾. They include things like camping out in the wild at number 3, catching a fish with a net at number 8, hunting for treasure on a beach at number 12 and checking out crazy creatures in a rock pool at number 37.
David on a cow!
, 1976
k Beach
Crantoc
Just about all of them, (apart from number 11, throw some snow) can be done in Cornwall in the summertime. So here’s our list for youngsters who want to cross some of those things off their list.
Rock-pooling,
1949
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Mat & Ben, 19
You are my sunshine, my only sunshine.
5/31/2012 2:09:57 PM
FOR THE KIDS Here are a handful of things we’ve selected from the National Trust website, 50 Things To Do Before You’re 11 ¾. To see the full list visit: www.50things.org.uk.
Number 1: Best place to climb a tree
Number 37: Best beaches for rock-pooling
Scale up a trunk of one of Cornwall’s ancient trees and even spend the night camping in the canopy with tree climbing specialists from The Mighty Oak Tree Climbing Company. Climbers are secured with harnesses and ropes, which means you can go even higher. Anyone over four can have a go, adults included. The Mighty Oak is based at St Columb Major near Newquay. (www.mighty-oak.co.uk).
Sea urchins, crabs, prawns and anemones are rock pool regulars in Cornwall. Here’s where you can find them.
Number 16: Best place to bury someone on the sand These beaches are all famed for their fine, golden sands. Ideal for burying snoozing dads!
It’s all very Daphne Du Maurier down on the Helford River (Frenchman’s Creek is just round a bend). But while the adults soak up the literary mystique of the place, there is prime rock pooling for youngsters in the little village of Helford Passage. Pendower Beach on the Roseland has one of the most beautiful approaches along a sandy track through tall grasses and wild roses. But down on the beach, low tide reveals the full extent of the natural wonders the place has to offer.
Just two miles from Newquay, but seemingly a world away, is the little village of Crantock and its fabulous sandy beach. The beautiful setting and the facilities in the picturesque village (pubs, café, toilets) mean everyone’s happy.
Trebarwith Strand is a lovely family beach just south of Tintagel. Cliffs and caves make a dramatic back-drop for exploring. The rock pools at the base of the cliffs are teeming with small fish and crabs. But do beware, the tide here comes in quite quickly.
The long, sandy beach at Sennen near Land’s End is a perennial hit with visitors. Families can find refreshments in the famed fishing cove’s handful of cafés and shops.
Remember these rock pools are delicate ecosystems. Replace any rocks you move, and do no harm to the creatures that live under them.
Just about anywhere on the Isles of Scilly, Britain’s own subtropical archipelago with miles of powder-fine sand beaches.
Number 23: Best place to visit an island
There are dozens of little islands dotted around the Cornish coastline. Here’s a couple worth a day-trip. Diving cormorants and curious seals are just some of the sights you can see on a boat trip from Looe Harbour to St George’s Island just one mile away. Now a conservation area for marine and wildlife, the island is managed by the Cornwall Wildlife Trust. (www.cornwallwildlifetrust.org.uk). St Michael’s Mount near Penzance is one of the most incredible sights Cornwall has to offer. This fortress castle with sub-tropical gardens is reached by a tidal causeway that can only be crossed on foot at low tide. After that the sea rushes back and you have to take the ferry (or swim!) A must-see if you are anywhere nearby.
Number 42: Best place to go wild swimming
Cornwall’s surrounded by the sea, so it makes sense to try wild swimming here first. If you’re inexperienced it might be safest to stick to beaches that have lifeguard patrols and flags to show you where it’s safe to swim. Or, mix Arthurian legend with your dip and head for Dozmary Pool on Bodmin Moor. According to legend, this small lake just south of Bolventor is where The Lady of the Lake gave King Arthur his sword, Excalibur. Splash around in the spectacular cascades made by the River Fowey at Golitha Falls. The beauty spot near St Cleer is popular with wild swimmers of all ages.
A little further afield… Samson Island on the Isles of Scilly is just about the closest you can get to being on a desert Island in Britain. Not only is this uninhabited island a Site of Special Scientific Interest and a nature reserve, but its golden sandy beaches are some of the best around. There are regular boat trips from St Mary’s to Samson, but there is no quay, so be prepared to get your feet wet. Once there, you can explore the rich flora and fauna and a collection of old cottages. There are also some interesting prehistoric graves. For more information try www.scillyonline.co.uk.
You make me happy when skies are grey.
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LOVE SUMMER IN CORNWALL / 19
5/31/2012 2:10:30 PM
RAIN, RAIN, GO AWAY
Things to do when it’s raining... That’s not to say it will. Cornwall has fabulous weather all year round. But, yes, it can rain all year round as well. So just in case, here are a few things you can do to brighten up the gloomiest day. After decades of neglect, Bodmin Jail is now a museum spread over six floors of a building that dates back to 1779. The restored ruins offer a harrowing insight in to what life was like for the men, women and children incarcerated within its forbidding walls. As well as the jail visit there’s a covered courtyard, licensed bar and restaurant which means there’s plenty to do whatever the weather. Jail visits run from 10am until dusk and the restaurant’s open from 10am until 10pm. Berrycoombe Road, Bodmin, PL31 2NR, (www.bodminjail.org, 01208 76292). Already mentioned in the section on Cornwall’s great gardens, The Eden Project is also a brilliant place to go on a wet and windy day. Particularly if you have children. With a year-round list of activities and workshops there’s always something fun and educational going on. Open daily 10am-6pm. Bodelva near St Austell, (www.edenproject.com, 01726 811 911).
The Tate St Ives is the region’s leading international modern and contemporary art gallery, best known for its work by the St Ives group of artists who came down to the town at the beginning of the 20th century. The work in the gallery includes some of the famous works by artists of the period including Ben Nicholson, Alfred Wallis and Peter Lanyon. This art gallery also houses special exhibitions. Open daily 10am-6.30pm, (www.tate.org.uk/stives). While you’re in St Ives, visit the Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden. Works in bronze, stone and wood by Britain’s most influential female sculptor are on display in the museum and garden, along with paintings, drawings and archive material. The artist’s studio, untouched since her death, gives one the rare sense of being in the workshop of a creative genius. St Ives, Cornwall (www.tate.org.uk/stives/hepworth, 01736 796 226). Penlee House in the heart of Penzance is a gallery and museum with one of the best collections of art in Cornwall. Set within the lush environs of Penlee Memorial Park, and beside the justly famed Morrab Gardens, Penlee’s collections include the world-famous ‘Newlyn School’ and ‘Lamorna Group’ of artists. The café is a great place to eat, particularly on a sunny day, outside on the terrace. Open Monday to Saturday, (www.penleehouse.org.uk, 01736 363625).
Bodmin Jail,
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RAIN, RAIN, GO AWAY
Royal Cornwall Museum,Truro. The Royal Institution of Cornwall – the organisation that owns and manages the Royal Cornwall Museum and Courtney Library – was founded in 1818 for “the promotion of knowledge in natural history, ethnology and the fine and industrial arts, especially in relation to Cornwall”. Happily, this is still the case. There’s also a great café onsite and a brilliant art shop attached to what’s become a cultural hub for the city. For now the museum is free though this is under review. (www.royalcornwallmuseum.org.uk, 01872 272205). Open Tuesday to Saturday 10am until 4.45pm. River Street, Truro, Cornwall, TR12SJ.
The Blue Reef Aquarium in Newquay is another of Cornwall’s award-winning attractions. The 40 naturally themed habitats take you from Cornish waters to the South Pacific. Adult £9.75. Children £7.50. Under threes go free. Open daily from 10am until 5pm all summer. (www.bluereefaquarium.co.uk, 01637 878134). Towan Promenade, Newquay, TR7 1JQ. DairyLand near Newquay is a great place to go if you have children needing to let off steam. This is a farm attraction, so you can get up close to the animals, but if the weather’s really foul you can retreat to The Bull Pen, the vast indoor play centre. There are also tours of the milking parlour and an on-site museum depicting Cornish farm life throughout the ages. Clarabelle’s kitchen café should also help lift sodden spirits. Open every day from 10.00am – 5.00pm. Adults and children £9.95. (www.dairylandfarmworld.com, 01872 510349). Tresillian Barton, Summercourt, TR8 5AA.
© RNLI
St Austell Brewery was established back in 1851. Now the award-winning family enterprise has become one of the largest private companies in Cornwall and its bestselling ales have gained a popular following right across the country. A tour of the brewery is a revelation and the tasting session afterwards a delight. Open Monday to Friday from 10am until 5:30pm – tours are run between 10am and 4pm. Saturday from 10am until 4pm and Sunday 10am to 4pm in August only. (www.staustellbrewery.co.uk, 01726 66022). 63 Trevarthian Road, St Austell, PL25 4BY.
The National Maritime Museum Cornwall is a celebration of the sea, of boats and of Cornwall itself. This is all part of an awardwinning attraction that has been a hit ever since it opened in 2003. Adults £10.50. Children £7.20. Open daily throughout the summer from 10am – 5pm (www.nmmc.co.uk, 01326 313388). Discovery Quay Falmouth, TR11 3QY.
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Alex Katz Eleuthera (detail) 1984 Private Collection, Courtesy Galería Javier López, Madrid © Alex Katz / Licensed by VAGA, New York, NY
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5/29/2012 9:33:17 AM
FROM THE PAST
Historic Cornwall Cornwall is home to some world class museums and galleries. If you want to learn something about our seafaring history and how boat and ship design have changed through the ages we can’t think of a better place to do so than at the National Maritime Museum in Falmouth. Likewise, if exploring Cornwall’s relationship to its incredible mineral wealth and its long history of mining is more your thing, then no visit to the county is complete without a trip to the Royal Cornwall Museum in Truro. But history is a living, breathing thing in the Duchy, and there are hundreds of places up and down Cornwall that give the visitor an extraordinary sense of place and of historical continuity. Here’s just a handful of those places:
Tintagel
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Under the boardwalk out of the sun.
5/29/2012 9:50:05 AM
FROM THE PAST
CHURCH OF ST MARY MAGDALENE, LAUNCESTON
ZENNOR
In a county not noted for the grandeur of its church buildings, Launceston’s parish church is a remarkable exception. Just a mile from the Tamar, and sometimes called the ’Gateway to Cornwall’, Launceston was the county town until 1835. Its centre is dominated by the remains of Launceston Castle, built by the Normans.
D. H. Lawrence fell in love with Zennor, and lived there for a year with his German wife during the First World War. “It is a most beautiful place,” he wrote. “A tiny granite village nestling under high, shaggy moor-hills, and a big sweep of lovely sea beyond.” And that description holds true today. The little, square towered granite church boasts the Zennor mermaid, a carved Tudor bench end, which has inspired songs and stories. The coast, a few hundred paces away, is magnificent for miles with some of the best views in all of Cornwall - rock-strewn moors and tiny fields sweeping down to the vast Atlantic Ocean.
The parish church, however, dates from Tudor times, quite late for Cornwall, finished only a decade or so before the Protestant Reformation. Made from granite, the ‘moor stone’ would have been hewn and transported from only a few miles down the road. Granite is among the most difficult building materials to work - so the intricate and ornate carvings of lilies, heraldic roses and Cornish ferns that cover the structure are all the more remarkable. Address: St Mary Magdalene: Church Street, Launceston, Cornwall PL15 8AU (www.achurchnearyou.com/launceston-st-mary-magdalene).
Archaeologists have show that the landscape in these parts, and the patterns of settlement, have been largely unchanged for thousands of years. Farmers graze their cattle in fields bounded by prehistoric dry stone walls. Getting there: head five miles west of St Ives on the B3306. (www.zennor.org).
ROUGHTOR AND BROWN WILLY, BODMIN MOOR
GEEVOR TIN MINE, PENDEEN
A little to the west of Launceston you’ll see the long, low, craggy outline of Bodmin Moor, Cornwall’s highest ground. This part of Bodmin Moor, like the West Penwith Moors between Zennor and Land’s End, is a tapestry of ancient habitation. The views from Rough Tor (pronounced Rowter) and Brown Willy, Cornwall’s highest hill, are stunning - the stony moorland stretching as far as the eye can see. This area is one of the most accessible prehistoric landscapes in Britain, with Bronze Age field systems still in evidence, the ruins of Iron Age round houses and hut circles, stone circles, cairns and the remains of a mediaeval farm.
It’s only a short hop from Zennor to Pendeen along one of the finest coastal roads in Britain. But Geevor tin mine is a world away from bucolic Zennor. Hard rock mining has ancient roots in Cornwall, the length and breadth of the county is bristling with the ruins of the engine houses of defunct tin and copper mines.
Getting there: On A39 about 2 miles before Camelford take a left signposted Crowdy Reservoir and Rough Tor. (www.themagicofcornwall.com/pages/walks/roughtor_bwilly). TINTAGEL Tintagel’s been firmly on the tourist map for decades, but the appeal of Tintagel Castle on its sea-girt spit of land off the north Cornish coast, is worth the hype. The village, inland to the south east, has perhaps mined the Arthurian connections to their limit, though the National Trust-owned Old Post Office, all granite and wonky roofs of Delabole slate, is also worth a visit. But here the Atlantic is king. Not much of the 13th century castle is left, except the atmospheric ruins - but long before that, the site was used by fifth and sixth century Celtic traders, and further back by the Romans. Its claim to be the birthplace of semi-legendary King Arthur is certainly open to debate, but more than anywhere else on the British mainland it looks the part. Opening times: 10 until 6pm, Monday to Sunday, admission £5.70 adults, £3.40 children, £5.10 concession, free to English Heritage members. (www.english-heritage.org.uk/daysout/properties/tintagel-castle).
Under the boardwalk we’ll be having some fun.
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Geevor was one of the last mines to close, in 1990, but offers visitors the richest and most atmospheric experience of the kind of working life led by tens of thousands of Cornishmen over hundreds of years. It’s said that at the bottom of every hole in the world you’ll find a Cornishman, and the Camborne School of Mines still turns out engineering graduates to the four corners of the earth. As well as a Hard Rock museum, and the Dry, unchanged since the last working miner left, Geevor offers an unmissable underground tour, and a view down the 480 metre Victory Shaft. Opening times: 9am to 5pm Sunday to Friday (closed Saturdays). Ticket prices: Adults £9.95, Museum only £7.50, Children 4yrs and over £6, Children under 4 free, Students £6, Senior Citizens £8.50, Family ticket £31. (www.geevor.com).
LOVE SUMMER IN CORNWALL / 27
5/29/2012 9:57:45 AM
FROM THE PAST
PORTHCURNO TELEGRAPH MUSEUM
GODOLPHIN HILL
The history of Cornwall may well be the history of mining but, at least in part, it’s the history of communication too. From the seventeenth century onwards Falmouth was at the centre of transatlantic communications, with the famous Falmouth packet ships bringing news and mail to Britain and relaying it around the world.
While certainly not the peninsula’s highest peak, Godolphin Hill encapsulates much that’s great about the west of Cornwall. From the top of this heathy, granite incline on the historic Godolphin estate near Helston you’ll see Mount’s Bay to the south, St Ives and Carbis Bay to the north, and a splendid panorama of patchwork farmland, dotted with the remains of mine workings.
In the twentieth century some of Marconi’s earliest experiments in wireless took place at Poldhu Cove on the Lizard, and Goonhilly Downs also on the Lizard has for half a century been synonymous with satellite communication, at one time being the world’s largest satellite earth station. The Telegraph Museum tells the story of electric telegraph communication over land and through cables under the sea. Porthcurno is where the telegraph cables that linked Britain with the rest of the world came ashore, and for a century from 1870 this quiet corner of Cornwall was at the heart of international cable communications, the largest cable station in the world. The collection is unique, a real time capsule. Besides the museum, there’s plenty to enjoy around here – one of the most spectacular beaches in Cornwall at Porthcurno, the stunning, cliff edge Minack Theatre on the hill above, and some of the most rewarding of Cornwall’s coastal walks in the parish of St Levan. Open from 10am until 5pm everyday April to November with late opening until 7.30pm every Wednesday between July 11th and August 29th. Eastern House, Porthcurno, Penzance TR19 6JX. (www.porthcurno.org.uk, 01736 810966). ST MICHAEL’S MOUNT Visible from around the whole, wide sweep of Mount’s Bay, St Michael’s Mount is one of the county’s most iconic landmarks, a smaller, more intimate mirror to its French counterpart Mont St Michel. Home to the St Aubyn family since the 1600s, the Mount has played an important role on many occasions during Cornwall’s history, defended by Royalists in the Civil War, seized by Cornish rebels in the 1400s, and a centre for the trading of tin with merchants from the Mediterranean from as early as the 4th century B.C. No visit to Cornwall is complete without crossing the causeway to the Mount from pretty Marazion, a visit to the Mount’s sub-tropical gardens basking in their own micro-climate, and a long climb to the castle itself, added to and extended over the centuries since its beginnings as a mediaeval monastery. Opening times: Castle: Mon to Sun (closed every Sat) from 10:30 to 17:00 (until 17:30 in Jul and Aug). Gardens: Open from 16 Apr until 29 Jun, Mon to Fri from 10:30 to 17:00. They are then open Thurs and Fri from 5 July to 28 Sep from 10:30 to 17:00 (until 17:30 in Jul and Aug). Admission: Adult Castle £7.50 Gardens £3.50 Combined £9.25, Child Castle £3.75 Gardens £1.50 Combined £4.50, plus various group and family concessions. (www.stmichaelsmount.co.uk).
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Many of these mines were founded on land owned by the Godolphin family and the mines provided much of the family’s wealth in its later years. Since 2007 the atmospheric and mainly 17th century house – once considered the most fashionable in Cornwall - has been open to the public, maintained by the National Trust. Opening times: House four days in each month except August, 10am to 4pm, Garden 10am to 4pm Monday to Sunday, Estate dawn to dusk. Admission fees: Whole property Adult £7.50, Child £3.75, Garden only Adult £4.20 Child £2.10 plus family tickets. Godolphin Cross, Helston TR13 9RE5, Telephone: 01736 763194. To get there head five miles north-west of Helston, between Townshend and Godolphin Cross. (www.nationaltrust.org.uk/godolphin). RESTORMEL CASTLE, LOSTWITHIEL Situated a mile-and-a-half from the historic town of Lostwithiel, Restormel is one of the four chief Norman castles of Cornwall, and noted for its perfectly circular design. The mound of the original castle with its deep dry ditch dates from around 1100, the impressive grey stone shell-keep is 13th century. Restormel was the residence of the Earl of Cornwall, was used several times by Edward the Black Prince in the 14th century, and was taken by forces loyal to the King in the English Civil War – the only time in its long history the castle saw military action. On a rise overlooking the River Fowey and surrounded by woodland and pasture, the Castle is a lovely place for a picnic on a sunny day. It’s a gentle stroll from here to Lostwithiel, a charming small town, at the time of the castle’s heyday the capital of Cornwall and chief stannary town for the ‘assaying’ of tin. St Bartholomew’s church, the bridge over the River Fowey and the historic Duchy Palace are all mediaeval, the rest of the small town dating from the late seventeenth century. Today it’s the home of a thriving antiques industry, with some great cafes, pubs and independent shops for a pleasant afternoon’s browsing. Castle opening times: 10am to 5pm Monday to Sunday, 10am to 6pm Monday to Sunday in July and August. Admission fee: Adult £3.50, Child £2.10, Concession £3.20, free to English Heritage members. Restormel Road, Lostwithiel PL22 0EE. (www.english-heritage.org.uk/daysout/properties/restormel-castle).
Under the boardwalk people walking above.
5/29/2012 9:53:46 AM
THE GIANT’S HEDGE “One day when the devil had nothing better to do, he built a hedge from Lerryn to Looe.” At least, that’s the local explanation of one of the strangest land features in Cornwall. No-one knows quite how old this earthwork is, nor exactly why it was built, but the best estimate is sometime in the Dark Ages, after the Roman retreat from Britain, as a kind of territorial marker for a Cornish chieftain or king, between the Looe and Fowey estuaries. It’s not so much a hedge as an earth bank and defensive dyke, and is no longer unbroken. Nevertheless it makes a great walk, and provides the walker some stupendous views over the countryside of south east Cornwall. At its western end around Lerryn it’s clear this was no ordinary field boundary, with the best preserved section running through Willake Wood, a mile or so to the east of Lerryn. However, one of the most enjoyable walks is from the delightful working fishing town of Looe (divided into East and West), along the west Looe river and into Kilminorth Woods, some of Cornwall’s oldest woodland. (www.southwestcoastpath.com).
Under the boardwalk we’ll be falling in love.
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OLYMPICS
Going for Bronze Did you know Cornish Tin will be playing a starring role in this summer’s Olympic award ceremonies? Tin mined and smelted in the county has gone in to creating the bronze medals that will be handed out at the London Games. The tin was mined at South Crofty 14 years ago just before it closed in 1998 and smelted at Wheal Jane, near Redruth. It was chosen for its purity – a sought-after quality for the medals that will grace the necks of some of the world’s greatest athletes. The bronze medal is made up of 97 per cent copper, 2.5 per cent zinc and 0.5 per cent tin.
So it begins The Olympic Torch began its historic journey across Britain here, in Cornwall It was flown in to RNAS Culdrose near Helston and the relay started at Land’s End on Saturday, May 19th Having left Land’s End, the Olympic Flame was carried by 150 torchbearers through 20 towns and villages in Cornwall as part of its 8,000-mile odyssey around the UK. On the final day of the Olympic Torch Relay, on July 27th, the Olympic Flame will travel down the River Thames to the Olympic Stadium for the lighting of the cauldron at the opening ceremony, signifying the official start of the London 2012 Olympic Games.
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The winding engines used to sing. A melody to Cornish tin.
5/30/2012 11:13:35 AM
DELVING DEEPER
Cornish Mining With Cornish tin being used to make the Olympic bronze medals, the future of mining is back in the spotlight. Mining certainly played a big role in Cornwall’s past, but does it also have a place in its future? We look at Cornwall’s budding tin renaissance. The relics of Cornwall’s mining past litter the landscape; the old chimney stacks and engine houses a crumbling reminder of Cornwall’s vast mineral wealth. When the last remaining mine, South Crofty, closed in 1998 - a victim of market forces - it seemed an era had gone forever. However, things could be about to change. With metal prices at record levels, industry experts say there are profits to be made. “In 1998 when the mine closed the price of tin was £2,700 a ton,” explains Mark Kaczmarek who as well as being one of the
last miners to work at South Crofty, now lectures at Camborne School of Mines. “Now it’s up around the £21,000 mark which means it’s financially viable to start mining again.” Local company, Western United Mines, bought South Crofty in 2001 and reopened it with the aim of restarting production – not just of tin but copper, zinc and rare metals like indium as well. Investment secured last year from Canadabased Celeste Copper has also boosted the mine’s prospects. 48 people are currently working on the site and underground exploration work is intensive, with drilling crews working twenty four hours a day. “We are producing core samples to identify the mineral deposits available and the results we have to date are very exciting,” says mine manager Kevin Williams. “Having just completed some vital land deals
with Cornwall Council, we can now progress our plans for building a new ore concentrator building, a miner’s dry, workshops and offices. According to our current timetable, production is proposed in early 2015.” £17 million has been spent on the project to date – with, say managers, many millions more in the pipeline. Celeste Copper acquired an initial 19 per cent interest in South Crofty last November and will gradually increase that figure to 60 per cent. “Cornwall has a rich mining heritage that we have every intention of turning into an equally rich mining future,” says Kevin Williams. “Modern technology like computers, mobile phones and TVs all depend on the metals that we will be extracting. Once we are producing, South Crofty will directly employ around 200 people on site but the knock-on effect is highly likely to create many more jobs and provide a massive economic boost for the whole of the county.”
THINGS TO DO CONNECTED WITH MINING • Walk or cycle along the Great Flat Lode Trail between Camborne and Redruth. The Cornwall Mineral Tramways Heritage Project circuit is about seven and a half miles long and has the highest concentration of historic mining sites in the world.
And Geevor lads they all would grin. At pay day on a Friday.
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• Climb up to the Basset Memorial on Carn Brea and enjoy some of the best views across the county. From here you can see from coast to coast taking in the ‘Cornish Alps’ created by the spoil heaps from the china clay works in the east and the high ground of Penwith to the west.
• Visit Heartlands, Cornwall’s free cultural playground. This visitor attraction and world heritage site near Camborne explains how Cornish mining shaped our world today. (www.heartlandscornwall.com, 01209 722320).
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GEEVOR TIN MINE
•Family activities daily - free with site entry •Free entry to the mine shop and cafe •Museum of Hard Rock Mining •Extended underground tour •Fantastic coastal scenery •Spectacular views •Free car park •Picnic areas
WHAT’S ON THIS
SUMMER AT GEEVOR
We are open Sunday to Friday 9am to 5pm Closed Saturdays Geevor Tin Mine Pendeen Sat Nav TR19 7EW Tel 01736 788662 www.geevor.com
Geevor Talks - Hand-drilling - Geevor Crafts ‘Sword in the Stone’ - Stone Carving
Visit Award Winning Geevor This Summer!
ALL THE ABOVE ARE FREE WITH SITE ENTRY See our website for more details
www.geevor.com
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MYTH & LEGEND
Celtic Cornwall THE CORNISH LANGUAGE
CROSSES
One step across the Tamar, and the Cornishness of Cornwall is brought home first by the names – Landulph, Tregadillet, Menheniot. These are not English names. And further west the more outlandish Perranzabuloe, Perranarworthal, Praze an Beeble…
The Celtic cross, is a potent symbol of the Celtic fringe.
It still comes as a surprise to many visitors from elsewhere in Britain, but the Cornish have always known it: Cornwall is a land apart.
There are wayside markers beside roads in West Penwith and across Bodmin Moor, market crosses and boundary crosses, but some of the finest carved crosses are memorial crosses, and are still to be found in the Cornish churchyards in which they first went up. Many were carved as early as the fifth or sixth centuries.
It may be a county of England, it may also be a Duchy, but it is also a Celtic nation, with a strong and separate identity, and its own language. While the number of fluent native speakers is measured in the low hundreds there are thousands of learners of Cornish from Australia to the US, and the language is more a part of Cornish school life today than it has been for three hundred years. Cornwall Council has a policy of getting more Cornish into public life, with new bilingual road signs, and Cornish lessons offered in many pre schools and play groups, and several primary and secondary schools. Some knowledge of the language, however slight, can help make a trip here more enjoyable – if only to make a little more sense of some of the more curious place names you’ll pass or read on the map. HOLY WELLS In common with many other parts of the British Isles before the Protestant Reformation, the veneration of local saints was very strong in Cornwall, and pilgrimage to holy wells a common activity. The practice lasted in Cornwall longer than elsewhere. Many of Cornwall’s holy wells, are still maintained today, and can still be visited. Sometimes isolated, sometimes beside ancient churches – and, even, as in St Mawes, surrounded by houses. Some are ornate, with carved granite chapels above the well, as at St Cleer, and Dupath near Callington, others like St Levan, are a jumble of rough stones. Among the most haunting of all Cornwall’s holy wells is at Madron, a mile or so northwest of Penzance. Found down a long footpath off the Morvah road, you first encounter the eerie ‘cloutie’ trees covered in rags and offerings. It’s an ancient tradition that’s been revived in recent decades, and whatever your beliefs evokes strong feelings. The well itself is a sluggish pond in a clearing, but close by are the ruins of a baptistery which may well go back to Christianity’s earliest days in Cornwall.
No other county of England is as rich in carved stone crosses, of all sizes and styles, as Cornwall. There are something like four hundred complete stone crosses still standing across Cornwall, and at least two hundred fragments.
Some of the best examples are found at Quethiock, Lanivet, Cardinham and Sancreed. STONES The Cornish cross is of course also a stone, but there are many other stones, spanning thousands of years of Cornish history. Stone circles like the Hurlers on Bodmin Moor or the Merry Maidens in West Penwith, date back around four thousand years. Then there’s also the peculiar and bewitching arrangement of the Men an Tol on Penwith Moors and the stones beside a roadside in St Cleer inscribed to Doniert, a ninth century Cornish king. The Tristan Stone, at the head of a lay-by as you enter Fowey, has an extraordinary story for so prosaic a spot. The inscription on the sixth century stone is to Drustanus, and it’s popularly believed to be the burial stone of Tristan, son of King Mark of Cornwall, made famous in the mediaeval tale of Tristan and Iseult. CHURCHES AND CHURCHYARDS Cornwall is blessed with dozens of mediaeval churches, venerable and beautiful, that have remained unchanged in their settings for centuries. Many have been built on or developed from the first preaching places of Irish and Welsh ‘saints’ who reintroduced Christianity to Cornwall after the collapse of Roman Britain. Some of these churches retain the ‘Celtic’ circular churchyard – most impressively at St Buryan, Sancreed and Gulval in West Penwith, and at St Mabyn in north Cornwall. Some of Cornwall’s finest and oldest inscribed stones and crosses are also found in churchyards, as well as interesting carved slate and granite memorials of much later date. Around many of the county’s best churches there’s now a policy of encouraging wildflowers, wild grasses and bees, by not mowing churchyards so regularly.
Those moments, tasted once and never done, of long surf breaking in the mid-day sun. A far-off blow-hole booming like a gun.
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Cornwall’s Micro-Climate Warmed by the Gulf Stream, Cornwall is sub-tropical in parts. The milder temperatures and longer summers lead to the county being billed in the early 20th century as the perfect place to escape the ‘rigours of winter.’ The author SPB Mais, who wrote books promoting the region for The Great Western Railway Company, likened Penzance to Madeira, the Scillies to the Azores and Mullion to Monte Carlo. “Everybody has dreamt of a land where the sun always shines, but never proves harmful,” he declaims. “Where it is always warm but never enervating, where we may bathe in the winter and take active exercise in the summer. We had to have a name for this Elysium, so we called it The Cornish Riviera. “Quite apart from her myriad attractions,” he continues, “it is worth visiting Cornwall just on account of her climate. If you are jaded or run down it makes you fit, if you are well it keeps you so. Her climate is equable, not torrid.” Given his employer, it is perhaps not surprising that Mr Mais’ prose glows off the page. But there’s no doubt this unique climate has given rise to one of Cornwall’s other great attributes, its gardens. Of which more over-leaf!
Discover the beautiful
Isles of Scilly escape for the day or stay a while
Cruise from Penzance or Fly from Land’s End · Newquay · Exeter · Bristol · Southampton Call 0845 710 5555 or visit www.ios-travel.co.uk IOSTravel Isles of Scilly Travel All summer long. We sang a song. And then we strolled on golden sand.
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ATOL exempt
LOVE SUMMER IN CORNWALL / 37
5/29/2012 12:27:16 PM
GARDENS
Cornwall Gardens Not only is the climate not torrid, it has led to the creation of a host of exotic gardens. Here’s a list of the ones we suggest you see:
COTEHELE This National Trust Tudor country house and gardens are truly captivating. The setting deep in the Tamar Valley add to the calm and serenity of the place. There are formally laid out terraced gardens as well as walks through the estate’s woods, orchards and meadow. Don’t miss the famous Cotehele clock – it’s the earliest turret clock in the realm still working in its unaltered state, which also makes it the oldest of its kind in the world. Open daily from 10am. St Dominick, Saltash. (www.nationaltrust.org.uk/cotehele, 01579 351346).
THE LOST GARDENS OF HELIGAN Heligan, the seat of the Tremayne family for more than 400 years, had magnificent gardens that went into decline after the men who worked in them left for the Great War in 1914 and never came back. In 1990 the gardens near Mevagissey were rediscovered and 22 years on the ceaseless work to restore them is still ongoing. Specimen plants, magnificent rhododendrons and camellias, ferns and giant rhubarb all thrive in this Edwardian garden thanks to a steep valley that creates a microclimate five degrees warmer at the bottom than at the top. A jungle boardwalk across interlinking ponds follows the different climate zones down. Open daily 10am-6pm. Pentewan, (www.heligan.com, 01726 845 100).
THE EDEN PROJECT Famous the world over for its distinctive giant biomes housing the ‘world’s largest rainforest in captivity’, Eden is one of the county’s biggest tourist attractions, and justly so. The domes have been built on the quarried landscape left by china clay mining. Now they are bursting with more than one million plants from many climatic zones. There are workshops and special activities for children, world class sculptures and art across the site as well as rock concerts throughout the summer. Open daily 10am-6pm. Bodelva near St Austell, (www.edenproject.com, 01726 811 911).
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Charles Fox, a wealthy 19th century Quaker who first planted the gardens. Highlights now include the newly re-designed Water Garden, built around a natural spring that flows downhill through a series of pools and cascades. The Boat House, Trebah’s Cafe on the beach, is open everyday from 11.00am, weather permitting, and is a great spot to unwind and enjoy a picnic. Falmouth, Cornwall, (www.trebah-garden.co.uk, 01326 250 448).
ABBEY GARDENS, TRESCO The most remarkable of all of Cornwall’s gardens are on the Isles of Scilly. The Gulf Stream warms these islands and a strategically planted belt of sheltering trees keeps the salt spray and high winds off the flora. This means exotic plants that wouldn’t stand a chance on the mainland just 30 miles away flourish here. The terraced subtropical garden is home to species from 80 countries. As you move through the different levels you also move through different climate zones. Open 10am-4pm every day. (www.tresco.co.uk, 01720 424108).
Trebah Gardens
, 1992
TREBAH GARDENS These sub-tropical gardens wind their way through a beautiful valley down to a secluded private beach on the Helford River. Records going back to the Domesday Book show the land here has been owned by the great and the good ranging from the Bishop of Exeter to
Ignited me in daylight and nature in the garden.
5/31/2012 11:32:37 AM
m N - 5p PE am p m O ri 10 m - 4 - F 10a on n M Su
A huge range of plants available this summer Stock includes: Daphne, Aeonium, Restios and Banana
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01736 752 888 Treglisson, Wheal Alfred Road, Hayle, Cornwall TR27 5JT love_summer_12_pg38-39.indd 3
5/29/2012 12:33:08 PM
GIFTS
GIFT IDEAS 1
4
Seventeen of the best Cornish gifts to take home with you this summer:
5 2
3
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8 6
Gifts for children 1. A felt monkey backpack is a great accessory for any child on holiday. It has a lift up velcro front with a zip underneath. At 20cm high it’s ideal for storing the holiday must-haves of the very young. £9.95 Watt’s Trading Emporium in Lostwithiel. (www.wattstrading.co.uk). 2. Sweet Canvas Design Craft Kit: Young children will love this handcrafted, made-in-Cornwall kit with everything you need to create a fabric on canvas work of art. From birds to mermaids, cars to boats the kits allow children to be as creative as they like. Kits cost around £12.50 from Truro Arts, River Street. (www.sweetcanvas.co.uk). 3. This beautiful, organic, 100 per cent cotton romper from Frugi is perfect you your little one to mess about in this summer. It is priced at £18 and available online. (www.welovefrugi.com).
5. This exotic lime loofah from The Barefoot Kitchen near Helston is made from entirely natural ingredients. Made in Cornwall, it is saturated with lime soap to keep your skin soft, glowing and ready for the beach all year round. £5.00 from Barefoot Kitchen, Halzephron House, Gunwalloe, Nr Helston, TR12 7QD. (www.barefootkitchen.com, 01326 240517). Three of the things Cornwall does really well are saffron buns, salt and honey. 6. Made to a secret recipe dating back 100 years this made-in-Cornwall saffron cake from Simply Cornish costs £3.35 and has won gold two years running at the national Great Taste Awards. (www.simplycornish.com/traditional-cornish-saffron-cake, 01736 367321).
Gifts for under £5
7. The Cornish Sea Salt Company produces highly-sought after pure salt flakes that are hand-harvested at their plant on The Lizard, just metres from the Grade A classified waters – the highest accreditation to denote water purity. A 500g tub costs £4.45. (www.cornishseasalt.co.uk, 0845 337 5277).
4. Buy an experience to remember. For £5 you can purchase a Cornish Treasure Trails guide. This is a great series that you can use to explore the county in your own time at your own speed. There are 51 trails to choose from, of which 38 are walking trails, 11 are car trails and two cycling trails. Go to www.treasuretrails.co.uk/cornwall/ things-to-do.html for details and a full list of retailers throughout Cornwall selling the guides.
8. The Porteath Bee Centre on the North Cornwall Coast started as a labour of love. The bees must have sensed that because their honey is laced with an indefinable quality that just makes you feel good. Slightly out of the price guide at £5.50 for 454g, it’s just too nice not to include. Available at The Eden Project and The Porteath Bee Centre, St. Minver, Wadebridge, PL27 6RA. (www.porteathbeecentre.co.uk, 01208 863718).
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In the summertime when the weather is hot.
5/31/2012 11:35:31 AM
GIFT IDEAS
Gifts for under £10
Gifts for under £50
Gifts for more than £50
9. B Skincare - quality, hand-made skincare products - Beeswax Hand & Foot Cream is particularly popular with gardeners or anyone with dry sore hands. £7.50 for 100mls. (www.bskincare.co.uk).
12. The St Eval Candle Company sends its products all over the world. This summer they are thinking more local and have launched special Jubilee and Olympic fragrances. The special edition candles come in a glass holder and a wrapped gift box and have a burn time of approximately 40 hours. Each candle is £19.99. The shop is open from 9am until 5pm, Mondays to Fridays. St Eval Candle Company, Engollan, St Eval, Wadebridge. PL27 7UL. (www.stevalcandlecompany.co.uk).
15. This welly boot rack from the clever people at Barefoot Kitchen can store up to four pairs of Wellingtons, and has an extra loop for use as a ‘boot jack’. Handmade in Cornwall, its local designer reckons the bootloop wellie rack is destined to become a British design classic. Size 570mm x 390mm x 485mm. £99.00. (www.barefootkitchen.com).
10. Great for the beach, this quirky Red Camper Van Oilcloth bag is available from Atlantic Blanket for £10.00. (www.atlanticblankets.com). 11. Take home a Barefoot Kitchen mug. “We use these handmade pottery mugs for serving our hot chocolate dippers in the Barefoot Café,” says director Lucy Thorpe. “No two are ever the same, they are made exclusively for us in St. Ives.” £10.00. (www.barefootkitchen.com).
10
13. A Cornish Rugby Shirt from The Cornish Store in Falmouth. They even do a Cornish Baby Range which includes sleep suits, baby vests, doubled knotted hats and baby bibs in the Cornish colours. We like the retro rugby shirt for £43.25. (www.thecornishstore.com). 14. South Crofty jewellery made from tin mined at South Crofty in 1998 and smelted at Wheal Jane. The same tin is being used to create the bronze medals for this summer’s Olympic Games in London! How about this Cornish Tin Small Cardinham Head Pendant for £26 or the Cornish Tin St Piran’s Flag cufflinks for £36. (www.croftytin.co.uk).
11
16. Healey’s Cornish apple brandy. Each apple is handpicked from the orchards near Truro, pressed and fermented and double distilled in the copper still. The brandy is aged for at least three years in oak barrels in Healey’s cellar. Prices range from £29.95 for a three year brandy to £84 for a 10 year brandy. (www.thecornishcyderfarm.co.uk). 17. Commission a bespoke, made-inCornwall silver bracelet with the personal names and dates of all your loved ones. Price on enquiry to Cornish designer and jewellery maker Esme Burton. (www.familysilver.co.uk).
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15
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12 16
9 You can stretch right up and touch the sky.
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GIFT IDEAS
MAKERS BOUTIQUE STUDIO SHOP Corduroy beach bag by Baglady of Brighton £32.95 Upper floor, Hayle indoor market, TR27 4AB (www.makersboutiquestudioshop.co.uk) CORNWALL PEARL Showcasing the works of jewellery designer Joseph Lamsin. Double cup pearl necklace from the Marazion range. Created using sea water to organically shape and texture the design. £84.00 Cornwall Pearl, Treasure Park, Tolgus Mill, Redruth, TR16 4HN. (01209 204 602 www.treasureparks.com)
NATURAL HOME SHOP MAKERS BOUTIQUE STUDIO SHOP
Beautiful gifts, homewares and furniture
Handmade Applique Bird cushion £24.95
Upper floor, Hayle indoor market, TR27 4AB (www.wix.com/thenaturalhomeshop/nhs)
Upper floor, Hayle indoor market, TR27 4AB (www.makersboutiquestudioshop.co.uk) REVAMP YOUR LAMP Great excitement! We’re starting this new workshop on Thursday 21 June 2012 10am – 4pm to show you just how to transform your old lampshade with a glue gun and a little hand sewing. So bring along your lampshade and we’ll supply all the fabrics, buttons, lace and ribbons. Call us to discuss times and dates you would like. Sweetpea & Betty, 20 High Street, Falmouth (01326 211246 www.sweetpeabetty.co.uk)
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When the weather’s fine.
5/31/2012 3:22:22 PM
GIFT IDEAS
POMONA STREET Enjoy Pomona Street gourmet wine vinegar this summer, splashed on salads, dipped with bread or glugged into marinades for the BBQ. (www.pomonastreet.co.uk)
NATIONAL TRUST National Trust Triple Pack of Biscuits available from the National Trust shops at Glendurgan, Trelissick and Trerice. Stem ginger, Belgian chocolate and Lemon shortbread flavours based on a traditional recipe without artificial flavouring, colouring or preservative in a value selection for only £5. (01872 865515)
Gift Guide NATIONAL TRUST Random Wool Rug available from the National Trust shops at Glendurgan, Trelissick and Trerice. £12. Made in Britain for the National Trust using yarn-ends which would otherwise be wasted – resulting in a unique pattern for each rug. (01872 865515)
THE BEAR WORKS Make and personalise your very own bear or choose from a huge range of characters. Add a costume and then finish of with a message for that special personal touch. From £13.99 The Bear Works, Treasure Park, Tolgus Mill, Redruth, TR16 4HN (01209 219 065 www.thebearworks.co.uk)
NATIONAL TRUST Wooden role-play toys available only at Trerice. Made in Britain and perfect for your own back-garden battles. Replicas of historic weapons. From £5. (01637 839903)
You got women, you got women on your mind.
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LOVE SUMMER IN CORNWALL / 43
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Just Delights Get ready for a Great British Summer 2012 with Just Delights
Creative workshops for all abilities and ages. Suppliers of fabrics, buttons and trimmings. Group bookings welcome.
Bunting Partyware Souvenirs Free Customer Parking Open 7 Days A Week
Foundry Farm, Hayle, Cornwall, TR27 4DW tel: 07793 608274 email: info@threadscornwall.co.uk
Commercial Rd, Penryn, TR10 8AQ
www.threadscornwall.co.uk
01326 379075
Traditional Children’s Products
Cotton Nightwear, Traditional Toys & Lifestyle Gifts Visit our shop, just off the Camel Trail at Eddystone Road, Wadebridge, Cornwall. PL27 7AL.
Tel: 01208 368695
www.littleliving.co.uk Save online, just quote ‘Save Summer’ for 10% discount
Gifts
Cafe
free Parking
Jelly Cat
cards
JEWELLERY
SHOP
furniture
light lunch
Follow us
rugs
Tea Origin Coffee Morgans St Agnes
love_summer_12_pg44-45.indd 2
@morgansstagnes
01872 553007
Presingoll Barns, Penwinnick Road, St Agnes. TR5 0PA
5/30/2012 5:01:28 PM
GIFT IDEAS
Summer Essentials
AZUNI TRIPLE HOOP NECKLACE Features three hand textured 24-carat gold plated hoops with smooth semi-precious Jasper stones. The perfect Summer accessory. Available at Uneeka.life, 5 Boscawen Street, Truro TR1 2EL (www.uneeka.com, 01872 888530).
£48
ST EVAL HEDGROW CANDLE
£165
Uneeka are stockists of St Eval Candle Company traditional, hand poured candles. Choose from a range of fragrances. Our favourite is Sea Salt, fresh for a Summer’s day. Available at Uneeka.life, 5 Boscawen Street, Truro TR1 2EL (www.uneeka.com, 01872 888530).
£9.99 LEMON AQUINNAH SHOULDER BAG This distinctively different bag is sure to turn heads this Summer. Handcrafted in the UK from the finest leather, it’s both elegant and hardwearing. Available at Uneeka.life, 5 Boscawen Street, Truro TR1 2EL (www.uneeka.com, 01872 888530).
CORNWALL TODAY SUBSCRIPTION The ideal gifts for friends and family – or even yourself! Enjoy a little piece of Cornwall delivered to your door every month. 3 issues for £3 then just £7.95 per quarter when you subscribe by direct debit (save £20.55 on cover price), or just £35 for 12 issues when you subscribe by credit or debit card. Order today on 0844 848 7699 quoting reference EA10 or visit www.cornwalltoday.co.uk/subscribe.
3 ISSUES FOR
£3
FROM LEATHER BAGS
£36
Beautiful range of leather bags. Lots of bright colours available. Inhabit, Green Street Mews, Truro (01872 222231).
Go out and see what you can find.
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LOVE SUMMER IN CORNWALL / 45
5/31/2012 3:34:54 PM
INTERVIEW
© Rex Features
The Railway Children,
Jenny Agutter F
or the past 21 years actor Jenny Agutter has split her time between London and The Lizard.
She was introduced to the wild Cornish peninsula by her husband who had spent childhood holidays there. Now it’s a shared passion that they have passed on to their son. The award-winning star whose film credits include Walkabout, An American Werewolf in London and Logan’s Run began her career in the mid-1960s in the BBC television series The Railway Children. She’s also known for her roles in the hit BBC TV series Spooks and more recently, the TV
1970
drama Call The Midwife, for which she is currently filming a second series. When we caught up with Jenny she was preparing for that evening’s premiere of her latest film, Outside Bet, a comedy drama about seven friends during the Fleet Street print workers’ strikes in the 1980s. Two days after our conversation she was back in Cornwall filming on location for an adaptation of the Miracle Theatre’s comic melodrama, Tin. Here she tells us what draws her to these ancient landscapes and why Cornwall is her special place.
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INTERVIEW
What makes Cornwall so special for you? It’s at the extreme South West tip of Britain – so it’s not a place you’re passing through or just visiting. It’s a place you have to make a decision to go to. It’s completely different to being in London with all the hubbub and the noise. Arriving in Cornwall is truly peaceful. How often do you come down? We try to come down every other weekend and we are always there for the holidays; Christmas, Easter and during the summer. What do you enjoy doing on a typical trip to Cornwall? I love walking, reading and cooking – there’s great produce to buy, very good fish, and the Cornish beef and lamb is excellent. I enjoy sitting by the fire in the winter months, but I will still go out for walks in the wind and the wet, in fact whatever the weather, I just get the boots on and go. We’re very close to the coastal path, which is stunning one can walk for miles and the coast changes each corner you turn. I love going to Kynance Cove, Kennack Sands and Coverack – anywhere really along that path. Over the course of the 21 years you’ve been coming down to Cornwall you must have seen quite a few changes: is there anything that stands out? Visually it doesn’t change very much, but there is a big difference in the food scene. People like Rick Stein, Jamie Oliver and other celebrity chefs have raised awareness of the good food to be found in restaurants right across the county. Apart from the well know places there are many small local restaurants serving imaginative dishes.
Where do you like to visit when you are down in Cornwall? When we get down I’m afraid we don’t go much beyond The Lizard, but there are wonderful places to visit. We have friends just near the border of Devon in Crackington Haven in North Cornwall. That’s very pretty and also very different, it has a bit of an Enid Blyton feel about it, but with surfers. The coast of Cornwall is so varied, it never ceases to amaze. My son had friends from school staying at Rock which has the Rumps, that whole walk has a very Downs-type feel as opposed to Kynance which is very rugged. Further south, is also beautiful and occasionally we take a drive and explore the small roads around Zennor. I enjoy St Ives, more good restaurants there, and it’s a bustling town in the summer with all its art galleries and festivals. I go to the Tate to see the Cornish collection of paintings and pottery - there is a spectacular glass window by Patrick Heron. The gardens in Cornwall are incredible. Throughout the year the gardens change; I love Trebah and Glendurgan in the late spring when the rhododendrons are looking their best. All across the county there are very important houses with splendid gardens, created in the Victorian era when it was a very wealthy county, with tin, china clay, slate, granite and the stone the Victorians loved, serpentine. Sadly it became cheaper to buy all these commodities from other countries. The mines and quarries were closed. The Eden project is nestled in a large china clay quarry, an imaginative and interesting use of the area and a fascinating place to visit. © Tiffany Holmes
What do you enjoy eating when you’re down? Fish at home. My husband cooks the best lobster possible, which we buy locally. He cooks it perfectly takes the shell off and makes a dill and cream sauce to go with it, it’s absolutely fantastic. Do you have a favourite café or restaurant? There are two places I particularly enjoy. I go to Ann’s down on the Lizard for pasties and I go to New Yard Bistro at Trelowarren. They are one of the restaurants that pride themselves in creating modern dishes with local produce. There are a number of places in Porthleven that are really good, and also Falmouth but we always go and have tea at The Old Cellars at Cadgwith. You can sit looking out of the gates on to the beach with all its fishing boats, and you get a “proper” Cornish Tea there with doughnuts and clotted cream.
Read more about Jenny Agutter in
July issue out NOW! Jenny Agutter starring in Miracle Theatre’s ‘Tin’ at Krowji Arts Centre, Redruth, alongside international opera star Ben Luxon.
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In your experience is Cornwall a good place for children? Yes, it’s brilliant. My son is now grown up, but he loves Cornwall and enjoyed it as a child. There’s so much to do, whether it’s building sand castles on the beach or just heading inland for a walk, and there are great places to go like the Seal Sanctuary, Goonhilly Earth Station and Flambards. People should look out for the wonderful productions put on by Kneehigh and Miracle Theatre, they are often putting on plays in gardens and halls across the county. The Minack Theatre has a good summer season and has a beautiful auditorium perched on the hillside overlooking the sea. There are a number of local events like the Ox Roast at St Keverne when the brass bands play. We also used to go to Roskilly. They are very clever with their farm and their walks and animals. You can see the milking parlour and try the delicious clotted cream and their homemade ice cream. In Cadgwith there is a gig race every year and at the end of the summer there’s a regatta which ends with a competition between homemade boats. The boats are pelted with water bombs and hoses and set upon by swimmers, the last boat to remain afloat wins. We used to have a fête at Ruan Minor with a fancy dress competition that was very ambitious. At the end of the day there was a parade through the village with tractors, trucks and cars pulling carts. Sadly insurance became too costly and the fete was stopped.
If someone was coming down for the first time what would be on your hit list of things to do? I would say they must explore. The good thing is, there’s a lot of information in papers and magazines like this, listing the places to go, but I think one of the things about travelling somewhere is not trying to do all the sights all the time. Enjoy the beach, village or area you are in and the people who are there. You don’t want to spend your entire time touring because that way I don’t think you get a very good sense of a place, you need to stop and have tea somewhere and soak up the atmosphere. It is very important to find out what is happening locally, there is a weekly fishing competition in Cadgwith, and it’s fun to see the fish being brought in. When you are away filming and working is it Cornwall you like to come back to, is it London, or is it a mix of the two? I love having a mix of the two. I don’t feel I have the inner resources to keep myself entertained in the country, I do love reading and relaxing but I also love the stimuli of the city. I love the concerts and films. I like all the events going on, on the river. There’s a lot happening in London, new exhibitions plays and every sort of music. It is a vibrant city. Not that Cornwall is without entertainment and arts. I was a trustee of the Hall of Cornwall for nine years: they provide a venue for local, national and international theatre, dance, music and comedy. There are as I mentioned a number of local theatre groups playing in different venues. Painters have always been drawn to Cornwall, now there is Falmouth College of Art which is very well thought of, and everywhere you go there are crafts people producing wonderful pottery, wood work and fabric items. What do you think the Cornish side of your life does for you as an individual? I think people are hugely respectful of nature in Cornwall. You’re living in a place that’s wild – we’ve got this big coastline, the sea is beautiful but can be dangerous, you are very aware living here of lives lost at sea, fishing is still a major industry. The terrain is rugged, not easy to farm, and people struggle but the ruggedness is also grand, and a part of Cornwall. City life can distract you from the realities of life, the buildings and the streets make you feel you are in control, that people can dominate nature. When you’re in Cornwall you realise you are at the mercy of the elements, you feel more vulnerable, but can draw great pleasure from the extraordinary place that it is. I love Cornwall. I hope others find pleasure here too.
LOVE SUMMER IN CORNWALL / 49
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Penzance • Falmouth • St Ives • Truro • Fowey Padstow • Totnes • Scilly • Guernsey • Salcombe Exeter • Rock • Penryn Sale Shop
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MUST VISIT
The Lizard It’s worth remembering that this is Britain’s most southerly peninsula. The latitude goes some way to explaining the peculiarity and the charm of this part of Cornwall, the local geology and the peninsula’s physical remoteness from the mainstream perhaps explain the rest.
The Lizard has some of Cornwall’s wildest cliffs, most secluded coves, most timeless fishing villages, and most sylvan creeks. From the leafy and truly beautiful Meneage (or Monkish Land) in the peninsula’s north east just below the Helford River, to the wild and flat and archaeologically rich Goonhilly Downs in the peninsula’s centre, as blasted a heath as you could wish for, the Lizard is Cornwall in miniature. The gentlest introduction is probably from the Falmouth side, crossing by boat from Helford Passage to Helford Village. Both settlements on the Helford River are lovely, with plenty to do on the water, some great little family beaches, and gentle riverside walks. By car if you want to explore west to east you could turn off the Penryn to Helston road for Gweek, with its boatyard and Seal Sanctuary, and slowly head through the villages of the Meneage. Manaccan is one of Cornwall’s most picturesque inland villages, with thatched houses and a mediaeval church, and it’s also a good place to eat – with a great pub and a relaxed café/restaurant. St Anthony-in-Meneage with its tiny church
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by beautiful Gillan Creek is also lovely - its mature Scots pines framing wonderful views out to sea. Take a stroll from here around Dennis Head, with far reaching views to Mawnan and Pendennis Point, or south to Goonhilly Downs and the rest of the Lizard.
summer. The Old Cellars café and restaurant is another local highlight.
St Keverne is a classically Cornish village at the heart of a rich agricultural district, unusually set around a small square. Good pubs and a distinctive 15th century church make this an interesting stop.
In Lizard village they’ve been selling goods made from the local ‘serpentine’ for decades, a rock that has a greenish tinge and can be worked like marble.
Just south of St Keverne is Roskilly’s Farm, with shop and café, the home of one of the county’s best small ice cream makers.
It’s not far from here to the Lizard Lighthouse and Lizard Point, on a magnificent coastal path running through tiny Landewednack Church Cove, past Bass Point and Housel Bay.
Further west around the coast lies stunning Kynance Cove. Walks from here over the cliffs of Predannack Downs are awe-inspiring, with plenty of that Lizard serpentine on show.
Coverack, a little over two miles south of St Keverne, is a rewarding fishing village set around a large crescent shaped beach and Dolor Point, past the village’s small, sheltering harbour, boasts one of Cornwall’s best seafood restaurants in the Lifeboat House, with excellent takeaway fish and chips for those peckish on the move.
Further on, Gunwalloe Church Cove is a favourite bathing spot for families, made more scenic with its Breton style church half hidden in the sands.
Further south, and you find the fishing village of Cadgwith, which was recently featured in the BBC series The Fisherman’s Apprentice. Fishing boats still sail each day from this picturesque cove, and regular fishing competitions are held throughout the
The historic Blue Anchor pub at the bottom of Coinagehall Street is one of only four inns across the UK still brewing its own ale. It’s customary to drink a pint of Spingo with a fresh crab sandwich, sitting in the Blue Anchor’s garden on a sunny day.
Finally, the town of Helston stands guard over the Lizard. The market town is world famous for its Flora Day dances in May. It’s also home to an intriguing – and free – Folk Museum.
Those moments, tasted once and never done, of long surf breaking in the mid-day sun.
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Fresh
from the Sea Enjoy fresh Cornish seafood caught for your plate! Choose from our extensive lunch and evening menu, one of our daily specials or come along to our curry night on a Thursday. OPEN THURSDAY & SATURDAY LUNCHTIMES, MONDAY - SATURDAY EVENINGS.
Mount Pleasant Road, Porthleven www.bluehazerestaurant.com To book please call 01326 564424
Lizard Lighthouse and HERITAGE CENTRE
Visit the Lizard Lighthouse and Heritage Centre
Climb to the top of the 250 year old Lighthouse; discover its secrets; see the breathtaking views. Build your own giant foam lighthouse, power up and sound a foghorn and listen to Lighthouse Keepers’ Stories. See the brand new exhibit “The Wrecks Factor” and the storm-battered gunmetal doors from Bishop Rock Lighthouse. Telephone 01326 290202 www.trinityhouse.co.uk THE
Lizard Lighthouse HERITAGE CENTRE
a far-off blow-hole booming like a gun.
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love summer in cornwall / 53
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The seagulls plane and circle out of sight below this thirsty, thrift-encrusted height.
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MUST VISIT
Penzance Very much the capital of the West of Cornwall, Penzance embodies much that makes Cornwall so special. The Cornish name – Pen Sans – or Holy Headland, gives an idea of how the place has been viewed over the centuries.
Magnificently situated on Mount’s Bay, the southerly and westerly location of Penzance means it has long hours of sunshine and gives a great quality to the light. Artists have been drawn by this sealight, as well as the unspoilt coastlines, moors and fishing villages of the area, for many generations. This led to the Newlyn school, a loosely affiliated artistic movement to rival St Ives. Today there’s no division between larger Penzance and Newlyn, which remains home to the largest fishing fleet in England. The town’s main street, Market Jew Street, is crowned by a statue to Penzance’s most famous son, Sir Humphry Davy, chemist and inventor of the ‘Davy Lamp’, with the Classical Market House (now Lloyd’s Bank) with its Wren-like cupola, standing behind. Chapel Street is Penzance’s most historic thoroughfare and one of the most rewarding shopping streets in Cornwall. Marvel at the unique Egyptian House from the early 19th century. The building is a rare survivor - its ornate and stylised design was briefly fashionable following Napoleon’s campaign in Egypt in 1798. Today the upstairs apartments are available as holiday lets from The Landmark Trust. There are great independent shops here selling everything from books to bric à brac, Oriental rugs to pipes and cigars. In amongst these are some of the town’s best pubs and eateries. For a crash course in the history of west Cornwall, and for some of the best examples of the Newlyn school painters, head for the Penlee Gallery and Museum. There’s a wonderful café and terrace for refreshments. To get an idea of just how great the climate can be here for plants, visit the sub tropical Morrab Gardens, lush and green in summer, and stocked with many fine specimen plants. If you enjoy traditional pubs soak up the atmosphere in The Turk’s Head or the Admiral Benbow, near each other in Chapel Street. For fine dining and some of the best seafood in Cornwall book a table at Harris’s in New Street, just off Market Jew Street, or try the more funky Bakehouse in a pleasant flower-filled courtyard off Chapel Street. Find out more: www.purelypenzance.co.uk.
DID YOU KNOW? The Bronte sisters’ mother, Maria Branwell, was Penzance born and bred – her redbrick birthplace, 25 Chapel Street, is still there. From mediaeval times onwards Penzance and its coastal area were subject to raids by Barbary Corsairs from north Africa – and in the 1500s the town and surrounding villages were raided and burnt by Spanish soldiers. The longest scheduled train journey in the UK with no changes is Aberdeen to Penzance.
The veined sea-campion buds burst into white.
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MUST VISIT
St Ives The archetypal Cornish seaside town, St Ives has been captivating visitors, including many of Britain’s most illustrious artists, for more than two centuries. The port is a picturesque maze of narrow thoroughfares clustered around three beaches and a spit of land known as the Island. There are many great restaurants tucked away down these alleys and interesting shops selling local art. Seen from Carbis Bay as you approach St Ives from the east it has almost a Mediterranean feel, particularly if the sun is shining on Porthminster Beach and the harbour sands. The light here has attracted artists from the time of Turner, if not before. And almost every generation since then has produced at least one illustrious name. Alfred Wallis, Ben Nicholson, Christopher Wood, Barbara Hepworth and Patrick Heron are just some of the artists who’ve been influenced by the town. Some of that artistic heritage is on show at The TATE St Ives, built on the site of a
Katie, St Ives, 1974
former Gas works, overlooking magnificent Porthmeor Beach. The home and studio of Barbara Hepworth, Britain’s most influential female sculptor, are also an unmissable part of any trip to the town. As are the world famous workshops of the potter, Bernard Leach. St Ives is justly popular – even in high summer with jostling crowds it loses nothing of its magic. From the intimate streets of the Digey, its fishermen’s houses with their external steps and stable doors, to the headland of the ‘Island’ and its rocks like the prow of an ocean-going ship, and the sands of Porthminster Beach – it’s all beautiful. What could be better on a sunny summer afternoon than enjoying a drink and a bite to eat at the Porthmeor Beach Cafe, gazing out at the Atlantic rollers? Find out more: www.stives-cornwall.co.uk.
Tate St Ives Open from 10.00am until 5.20pm every day during the summer.
Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden
Tate St Ives, Porthmeor Beach, St Ives TR26 1TG
Open from 10.00am until 5.20pm every day during the summer.
www.tate.org.uk/visit/tate-st-ives 01736 796 226
Barnoon Hill, St Ives TR26 1AD The Leach Pottery
Open every day from 10.00am until 5pm. Sundays 11.00am until 4pm. Higher Stennack, St Ives, TR26 2HE. www.leachpottery.com 01736 799703
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www.tate.org.uk/visit/tate-st-ives/ barbara-hepworth-museum 01736 796 226
DID YOU KNOW? St Ives has a wealth of tradition and festivals, from the St Ives Feast in February, dedicated to St Ia, to St Ives May Day, and Good Friday when locals sail toy boats on Consols Pond. But by far and away the strangest ritual in Cornwall is the Knill Ceremony that takes place every five years on July 25th. The ceremony, created by a former town mayor in the 18th century, has to involve the current mayor, a customs officer, a vicar, two widows and ten maids who are the daughters of “fishermen, tinners or seamen”. The people of St Ives have faithfully carried out John Knill’s bizarre wishes for over 200 years! St Ives was crowned ‘Best UK Seaside Town’ in the British Travel Awards in 2010 and 2011 For centuries St Ives was the most important fishing port on Cornwall’s north coast: the record number of pilchards taken in one seine net was 5,600 hogsheads (around 15 million fish!) in 1868
And gorse turns tawny orange, seen beside Pale drifts of primroses cascading wide.
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Fun for Free at Tregenna Castle Tregenna Castle Hotel is offering lots of free fun this summer.
Free Falconry
make sure your holiday is a cherished one
www.cherishedcottages.co.uk At Cherished we have a unique collection of beautiful places to stay in St Ives. Our personal care and attention to detail will ensure you have a relaxed and memorable holiday.
St Ives, Cornwall AA ★★★
Free entry to dazzling flying displays by owls, falcons and hawks in our beautiful grounds. Every Wednesday of the school holidays 5-6.30pm.
Free Cream Teas Our delicious cream teas are buy one get one free every day between 2-5 pm. The perfect treat for two.
Free to Tee Bring a friend for a round of golf free on our challenging 18 hole President’s Golf Course.
Free to Roam Explore our fantastic woodlands and 72 acre estate with its stunning views of St Ives and the glorious coastline below.
Enjoy your free time at Tregenna Call us to talk about how we can Cherish you!
0844 809 9170
www.tregenna-castle.co.uk 01736 795254
st. ives HarboUr Hotel & spa
discover... st. ives HarboUr Hotel & spa
Dazzling Waterside Location, Luxury Seaside Spa and Alfresco Dining Terrace
For more details or to book please call: 01736 795221 www.stives-harbour-hotel.co.uk To where the slate falls sheer into the tide.
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Restaurant & Spa love summer in cornwall / 57
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MUST VISIT
Falmouth Internationally renowned for its sailing and connections to all things maritime, Falmouth has been shaped by the sea, and Britain’s history of overseas trading.
As a Cornish town it’s a relative late comer – growing as a naval port in the seventeenth century in the shadow of the more historic Penryn, with its mediaeval monastic settlement of Glasney College. As its name suggests it sits at the mouth of the Fal river system, a tangle of creeks and tributaries that begin at Truro and Tresillian and drain into the Carrick Roads, forming the deepest harbour in Western Europe, and the third deepest in the world. Falmouth today has some lovely Georgian buildings, a wonderful Restoration church – one of the few in Britain to be dedicated to King
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Charles the First – and some great cafes, eateries and independent shops, thanks in part to a thriving student community studying at University College Falmouth, Falmouth Marine School, and the Combined Universities Campus at Tremough. Take a stroll down Arwenack Street, for some great shops and cafes, spend an afternoon at the National Maritime Museum, have a drink in the ‘Chain Locker’ by the harbourside… and if you’re looking for fine dining with views over Falmouth Bay the Greenbank Hotel can’t be bettered. Find out more: www.falmouth.co.uk.
More than in gardened Surrey, nature spills A wealth of heather, kidney-vetch and squills.
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DID YOU KNOW? The port was home for more than 160 years to the Falmouth Packet Service, carrying mail to and from Britain’s overseas empire. Falmouth was the start and finish point of world record breaking voyages by Sir Francis Chichester and Dame Ellen MacArthur. Falmouth is also world famous for its automata – a kind of mechanical sculpture that comes to life when you press a button or turn a handle. You can see a collection of the wonderful works of art, still made locally by talented artists, at The Falmouth Art Gallery. www.falmouthartgallery.com, 01326 313863.
Over these long-defended Cornish hills.
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Fresh from the
sea
10 Arwenack Street, Falmouth 01326 211132 www.beside-the-wave.co.uk
...and complimented with a range of sumptuous flavours atering Mouthw ecials. sp y il da aily for Open d , Lunch st fa k Brea inner &D
The Marine Bar is a family run eatery, entering its 24th year. The restaurant has an extensive Mediterranean influenced menu. Enjoy our stunning scenic views across Falmouth Yacht Marina, and the surrounding country-side. Relax in our cosmopolitan bar lounge, boasting a large tropical fish tank and a funky chilled out atmosphere. We are just a short pretty stroll into Falmouth town or a 2 minute drive.
Marine Bar & Restaurant call us now 01326 313481 www.marinebarfalmouth.com
Falmouth Yacht Marina, North Parade, Falmouth
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Specialising in:
Original Contemporary Paintings Limited Edition Prints Jewellery and Ceramics
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Summer Summer
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MUST VISIT
Newquay Newquay is Cornwall’s capital of fun. Renowned internationally for its surfing, it’s probably the first place in Cornwall you get to know if you fly into the county’s airport at St Mawgan. What many people forget is that for most of its history it was a fishing village – beginning life as Towan Blystra, or blown sands, the ‘New Quay’ from which its modern name derives being built in the 15th century. To this day Newquay has one of Cornwall’s most characterful harbours, with working fishing boats. If you venture down the hill to visit, stop off at The Boathouse (01637 874062) for delicious fresh crab sandwiches or even a whole home-grown lobster. You can sit outside when the weather’s good and watch the hustle and bustle of harbourside life. A 15-minute walk away is the whitewashed huer’s hut on Towan Head, a scenic reminder of the town’s very Cornish history. Today the pilchard fleets are gone, and in their place are thousands of surfers and boogie boarders, of all abilities, drawn by the seven miles of fabulous sand skirting the resort.
Whipsiderry beach,
The town itself has a laid-back, partying kind of feel, given over to hotels and B&Bs, cafes and pubs and every kind of eatery, surf shops and nightclubs. With Fistral and Watergate Bay some of surfing’s most famous destinations, the annual Boardmasters Championships and regular music festivals held here, and resident populations of Australians and South Africans drawn by the surf, the town has a cosmopolitan air – a feel of permanent summer even on the greyest days. Its many cafes reflect this quirky, relaxed style. Café Irie and Beached Lamb Café (both on Fore Street) are welcoming hubs offering fine local food and fresh coffee (Irie) or cocktails, nachos, vegan options and more at The Beached Lamb. For more of that laid back feel, only down on the beach try the Venus Café or Kahuna – both at Tolcarne Beach and famed for their great views and delicious food.
DID YOU KNOW? Newquay led the way in introducing surfing to the UK in the post-war period, with the British Surfing Association being formed in 1966. But surfing was first observed by Captain Cook in Hawaii in 1778
1991
Bodhi’s Beachside Café at Fistral Beach is all those things as well as being dog and wetsuit friendly. Alternatively, try any of the great fish and chip shops in the town. The catch is fresh and the competition means prices are fair and the standards generally high. The Harbour Chippy is our favourite. With such a beautiful and dynamic backdrop, it’s no wonder Newquay also offers a wealth of watersports. From diving (info@ divenewquay.com, 01637 876222) to snorkelling (www.freediveuk.com) to all-day fishing (www.newquayfishingtrips.co.uk, 07811 017313) and coastal cruising (www.paddlefishadventure.co.uk, 07803955923) there is an amazing amount to see and do. Find out more: www.visitnewquay.org.
Ceramica Mobile Pottery Painting Available for: Parties and Workshops
Ceramica
Around 22,000 people call Newquay home year round, but the population can exceed 100,000 during the summer months
Visit our workshops: The Newquay Arms, Bank St. Newquay and Disco Beads in Mawgan Porth
The town’s insignia is two pilchards, reflecting Newquay’s origins as an important fishing port for the pilchard industry
Contact: Vix on 07912 269170 for more details
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A gun-emplacement of the latest war. Looks older than the hill fort built before Saxon or Norman headed for the shore.
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and in the shadowless, unclouded glare. Deep blue above us fades to whiteness where a misty sea-line meets the wash of air.
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love summer in cornwall / 63
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MUST VISIT
Padstow For centuries Padstow was a quiet fishing village around an attractive harbour sheltering on the western side of the River Camel. In recent decades its reputation as a food Mecca – thanks in no small part to entrepreneur Rick Stein – has grown exponentially.
across the fairways of St Enodoc’s golf club to see the church where former Poet Laureate John Betjeman is buried, or windsurf at sheltered Daymer Bay.
But it’s not just ‘Padstein’ as the cynics suggest. Padstow is famed for good reason. On a sunny day the views across to Rock and out beyond the Doom Bar are stunning, the coastal walks are some of the most enchanting in Cornwall, and the hustle and bustle of life around the harbour a draw both day and night. Padstow’s Obby Oss Day celebrated on May Day, is a festival lost in the mists of time, and some of Celtic Padstow can be found in the town’s old established pubs, and in the parish church of St Petroc with its ancient graveyard.
Padstow is also at one end of the scenic Camel Trail, one of the Westcountry’s best cycle routes. The 18-mile, traffic free trail follows a beautiful old railway line route to Poley’s Bridge via Wadebridge and Bodmin. Equally, the walk from Padstow’s North Quay Parade up the west bank of the Camel, to Hawker’s Cove, Stepper Point and around to Butter Hole and Trevone, is gentle but richly rewarding. Alternatively, take a seat on one of the quayside benches and enjoy the life on the water.
The attractions of the town itself are in its quirky buildings, a range of great little shops, and some fabulous places to eat, for all purses. Take the ferry ride over to Rock, the favoured resort of generations of Britain’s elite, stroll
Find out more: www.padstowlive.com.
May Day. Padstow
, 2012
DID YOU KNOW? THREE FACTS ABOUT PADSTOW Padstow was originally named Petroc-stowe after the Welsh missionary Saint Petroc, who founded religious settlements across Cornwall and Devon and has many churches dedicated to him across both counties
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Over the centuries many ships have come to grief on the Doom Bar, which remains a significant obstacle in the mouth of the Camel estuary. Today Doom Bar is also the name of an acclaimed beer from the brewery Sharps over the river at Rock
So popular is the idea of a life beside the ocean in Cornwall that Padstow and Rock are now considered the second and fourth least affordable seaside towns in England and Wales in which to buy a house
Nut-smell of gorse and honey-smell of ling Waft out to sea the freshness of the spring On sunny shallows, green and whispering.
5/29/2012 4:25:44 PM
WIN
A POSH PICNIC FOR 2
Doorsteps Sandwich Deli in Padstow is giving Love Summer readers the chance to win a Posh Picnic for two this summer worth ÂŁ60! The Posh Picnic is designed using quality, local ingredients and includes delights such as: Traditional lemonade Luxury sandwich assortment Cornish crab Marinated Jerusalem artichoke Sun-dried tomato Olives Strawberries Clotted cream and much more! For you chance to win, simply 1. Like the Doorsteps Facebook page:
facebook.com/doorstepspadstow 2. Post on our wall where your favourite picnic spot in Cornwall is! We will pick a winner at random on 17th August 2012. We will contact the winner for details via Facebook. Terms & conditions: The winner will be selected at random from the Facebook page and will win a Doorsteps Sandwich Deli Posh Picnic for 2. This will be valid for 2012. This competition is not open to employees of Cornwall and Devon Media. You must be 18 years of over to enter.
/doorstepspadstow
@doorstepsdeli
12a Duke St, Padstow, PL28 8AB 01841 533443 info@doorstepspadstow.co.uk www.doorstepspadstow.co.uk doorsteps love summer comp.indd3 1 love_summer_12_pg64-65.indd
5/28/2012 12:52:41 9:18:42 PM AM 5/30/2012
MUST VISIT
St Mawes Sheltered on the west by St Mawes Castle and from the east by furzy and rugged St Anthony headland with its iconic lighthouse, St Mawes sits sedately across from Falmouth on the quiet side of the Carrick Roads.
A short boat journey from the hustle and bustle of Falmouth aboard the Enterprise boat the Duchess of Cornwall, St Mawes seems a world away - a vestige of a gentler age. That bygone feel, along with the excellent sailing that can be had from here, and of course the draw of Olga Polizzi’s boutique hotel the Tresanton, has seen this seaside village finding favour with the international rich and famous in recent decades. But this is still Cornwall, not Cannes, Wellington boots and sou’westers are the order of the day, and there’s little standing on ceremony in the small resort’s excellent pubs, cafes and restaurants.
DID YOU KNOW?
The popular town-centre hatch, The Watch Out, which is part of the Watch House restaurant, serves great fish and chips while The St Mawes Bakery Shop on the harbour makes delicious pasties. Opposite, Café Chandlers is a coffee and cake lover’s heaven. The smell of freshly ground beans wafts out the door - once on the threshold, a mouth-watering deli counter draws you irresistibly in.
The town is named after the Celtic Saint Maudez, who’s better known in Brittany. St Mawes has long been a favourite with members of the Royal family, with the Duke and Duchess of Cornwall the most recent to stay. Earlier this year a special edition Monopoly board was produced – gone are Bond Street and Mayfair, and in their place St Mawes Castle and the Tresanton Hotel, and the King Harry Ferry replaces Kings Cross Station.
This is definitely a place for food lovers because, aside from being able to buy fresh fish straight from the trawler at the St Mawes Seafood trailer on the old harbour wall, there’s a real deli store. Deli-cious is tucked in to a small arcade beside the main car park. Selling local produce as well as other delights including fresh olives, cheese and hams this place is ideal for finding those last minute special ingredients for a picnic.
The Children
’s Coronatio
The Roseland Peninsula, of which St Mawes is the main settlement, is an unspoilt stretch of rich agricultural land bounded by water. Working on the land and sea is still the norm for many. As well as stunning sea views and coastal walks, the beaches here tend to be as nature intended - and generally there’s space to spread out even on the most popular in the summer months. After looking around St Mawes Castle – a well preserved Tudor fort – why not stroll the two miles to idyllic St Just in Roseland Church, which is reputed to have the most beautiful churchyard in Britain? Or sign up for a sea angling or sailing course? From St Mawes there are regular sailings in summer across the lazy Percuil River to Place, a country house attached to a part Norman church, in St Anthony in Roseland, with woodland, coastal and creekside walks in all directions. Alternatively hire a kayak and explore the area by paddle power. (www.stmaweskayaks.co.uk, 07971 846786). Find out more: www.stmawesandtheroseland.co.uk.
n, St Mawes
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Behind it in the arcade is the new Café Roseland. Open 9am until 3pm everyday except Sunday, when it opens at 10am, this little café serves delicious and very reasonably priced breakfasts and lunches.
, 2002
The wideness which the lark-song gives the sky Shrinks at the clang of sea-birds sailing by.
5/31/2012 12:04:22 PM
whose notes are tuned to days when seas are high.
love_summer_12_pg66-67.indd 3
love summer in cornwall / 67
5/29/2012 4:50:51 PM
MUST VISIT
Readymoney
beach, 1986
Fowey Like Falmouth, Fowey is a town at the mouth of a long river, but here things are quieter, gentler, with a bosky charm that captivated Daphne du Maurier when she first saw the town aged nineteen.
With narrow, steep streets leading down to the water’s edge Fowey retains a lovely mix of buildings dating back to the Tudor period. The port’s heyday was in the 15th century when the ‘Fowey Gallants’ – essentially pirates, attracted by the River Fowey’s deep anchorage and many creeks – wreaked havoc on shipping in the English Channel and towns along the French coast. Today no pirates ply the waters, though boatyards along the Fowey, and the ferries to Bodinnick and Polruan, ensure that river views are never dull. Also like Falmouth, as you look out to sea from Fowey the Tudor defences of the river are still very much on show – with an artillery forts from the time of Henry VIII at St Catherine’s Castle near Readymoney Cove and at Polruan on the eastern shore a well preserved blockhouse. A chain was once stretched across the river from Polruan to a ruined a blockhouse on the Foweyside at times when the port was threatened. There are dozens of great walks, coastal or inland on either side of the river, as well as fascinating settlements like Golant, Lerryn and St Winnow. For food, drink and diversion there are plenty of great places: The Lifebuoy Cafe in Lostwithiel Street, Sam’s Bistro in Fore Street and Pinky Murphy’s Café in North Street are all independently run, quirky, with great local food and a cosy atmosphere. There are also plenty of more upscale restaurants, several good places for seafood, a magnificent butcher and deli in Kittows, and two excellent bookshops – Bookends and Bookends Too – for secondhand and new books respectively. Find out more: www.fowey.co.uk.
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From today’s calm, the lane’s enclosing green .
5/29/2012 5:01:30 PM
DID YOU KNOW? Fowey sits at the end of the Saints’ Way, a long distance footpath following a Celtic trade route, starting at Padstow. Below the cliffs to the South West of St Saviour’s Point is a cross commemorating the mythical visit of Jesus Christ to Fowey. Cornish legend has it that he visited with his uncle Joseph of Arimathea, a merchant drawn here by Cornish tin. The town hosts two popular annual festivals: the Daphne Du Maurier Festival, celebrating books and literature, runs for a week in May; and the Fowey Royal Regatta, held for a week every August, is one of the most enjoyable sailing events in Britain.
Leads inland to a usual Cornish scene- Slate cottages with sycamore between.
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LOVE SUMMER IN CORNWALL / 69
5/31/2012 4:32:11 PM
MUST VISIT
Truro The southernmost city in Britain, Truro is the administrative capital of Cornwall, its main shopping centre and religious seat, if not officially its county town. (This is still nominally Bodmin). According to some its name is from the Cornish Tri-veru or town of three rivers - sure enough there are three flowing right through it. The centre is small, solid, stately, with an interesting array of independent businesses that regularly draws in shoppers from as far away as Plymouth.
as well as, with its cathedral, Hall For Cornwall theatre, galleries, cinema and museum, the county’s main cultural focus. Lemon Quay, sometimes called the Piazza, is the centre of public life, and Boscawen Street, with its war memorial, the main shopping street.
The place began life in Norman times, but Truro’s heyday – and this is evident today in its built environment – was the late Georgian period. Lemon Street and Walsingham Place are often cited as the best Georgian streets west of Bath.
The ‘specialist quarter’ around Kenwyn Street repays investigation, as do the city’s two fine parks, the riverside Boscawen Park towards Malpas, just before Truro’s beautifully sited cricket ground, and the lovely Victoria Park off St George’s Road, complete with bandstand.
Truro was picked by the Church of England as the seat of a new diocese, carved out of the large diocese of Exeter, in 1876. With a Bishop came a cathedral, created in an Early English Gothic style around a Tudor parish church, between 1880 and 1910. And of course city status, conferred by Queen Victoria.
Archie Brown’s and Olive on Kenwyn Street are great for wholesome, affordable eating, Saffron in Quay Street, Tabbs in Kenwyn Street and Indaba Fish in Tabernacle Street off Lemon Quay the best bets for finer dining.
Today it’s a relaxed, friendly, homely place: a city of just 20,000 or so residents, but a place of work for many more. With a compact and attractive centre, Truro offers the widest range of shops in Cornwall
love_summer_12_pg70-71.indd 2
For real ale enthusiasts the Old Ale House is a must visit, showcasing the beers of Truro’s own brewery, Skinner’s. Find out more: www.truro.gov.uk. Shops, food and culture: www.enjoytruro.co.uk.
Truro Cathedral
DID YOU KNOW? Richard Lemon Lander was one of Truro’s most famous sons, an explorer who was the first European to journey up the River Niger. He died on expedition in Africa two days before his thirtieth birthday. A column and statue erected in his memory, the Lander Monument, stands at the top of Lemon Street just yards from his birthplace, the Daniell Arms. The Hall For Cornwall (back then known as City Hall) was the venue of the rock group Queen’s first gig, though they were billed as ‘Smile’ – the drummer Roger Taylor went to Truro Cathedral School and Truro School. Lemon Street and Lemon Quay owe their names not to Truro’s exotic or Mediterranean climate but to Georgian mining magnate and local MP Sir William Lemon.
5/31/2012 12:11:04 PM
57th West of England
Steam Engine Rally 17th 18th 19th August 2012 AppRox.
100
EnginES in STEAm!
Tractors | Vintage Cars | Commercial Vehicles Fairground Organs | Rural Working | Crafts Stationery Engines Heavy Horses | Steam Cars | Craft & Model Tents | Trade Stands Live Entertainment Daily | Fun Fair | Sheaf Pitching - Sat Night Licensed Bar | Steam Hauled Trailer Rides Free Classic Bus Service (see website for details)
Stithians Showground, Truro TR3 7HL Admission: Adults £9.50, Children £6.00, Concessions £8.50, Family (2+2) £30.00, Gates open at 9am until late Enquiries 07729 816888 | www.weses.co.uk A WESES Ltd Rally
Hire a Morgan
Have a fun-filled trip in Cornwall
Quality Morgans in stock Are you getting married in Cornwall? If so, you need to know all about
Cornish Brides Visit our website for full details of all our Wedding Fairs and to register for your complimentary copy of Cornish Brides - our fabulous Summer issue is out now!
www.cornishbrides.co.uk Please call Janice or Colin on 01209 315646
• • • •
Self-drive Hire Sales Service Gift Vouchers
Perranwell Garage
Tel: 01872 863037 Web: www.perranwell.co.uk E-mail: alan@perranwell:co.uk Perranwell Station Truro TR37PT
Small fields and tellymasts and wires and poles. With, as the everlasting ocean rolls. Two chapels built for half a hundred souls.
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LOVE SUMMER IN CORNWALL / 71
5/29/2012 6:02:06 PM
Cornwall’s Cathedral Welcomes You Truro Cathedral is open 365 days a year and is FREE Stunning architecture Superb stained glass Cornish saints in wood, glass and stone Family trails and crafts Guided tours Shop and restaurant
www.trurocathedral.org.uk
love_summer_12_pg72-73.indd 2
5/29/2012 6:05:18 PM
EUROPEAN UNION Investing in Your Future
Ignite your business idea at ignitecornwall.com
European Regional Development Fund 2007-13
love_summer_12_pg72-73.indd 3
5/31/2012 5:09:59 PM
FEELING PECKISH
Eating Out in Cornwall Long gone are the days of soggy cheese and tomato sandwiches followed by a swig of over-stewed tea from a thermos as the culinary backdrop to a holiday in Cornwall. For more than a decade the county has been undergoing a food revolution. Egged on by a growing appetite for local, sustainable and seasonal food, local producers have responded, and how! Cornwall now has a very active food scene. Farmers, fishermen, bakers, brewers and winemakers have done an amazing job of proving home grown goods are second to none. Now where produce used to be mostly packed up and sent off to London, the continent and even beyond, a good deal now stays down here and is sold locally. The effect of celebrity chefs like Rick Stein and latterly, Jamie Oliver, opening
restaurants in Cornwall has created a hotspot of gastronomic excellence that draws food lovers from all over the world. From the finest seafood to the best farm produce: these are the wonderful raw ingredients that go in to Cornwall’s kitchens. Our talented and creative chefs make up the other half of the equation. Here are some of the places where you can sample those delights
BEST WESTERN PENMERE MANOR HOTEL Mongleath Road, FALMOUTH • Tel:01326 211411 Sunday Lunches available every Sunday in The Manor Bar & Passingham Room from 12.30pm until 2.00pm. A Roast Dish plus a
vegetarian option if required will be available.
Pre-booking is advisable, please contact - The Manor Bar.
Starters at £3.50 Roast Dish at £9.50 Desserts at £3.50 Summer Bar Snack Menu available every day in The Manor Bar from 12.30pm - 2pm and from 7pm - 9pm.
CORPORATE EVENTS The calm and tranquillity of the Penmere Manor Hotel is an exceptional venue to hold a family function, business meeting or other event. We can provide a range of rooms for meetings or conferences which are adaptable to a variety of layouts.
PENMERE MANOR HOTEL - AN OASIS OF TRANQUILLITY AND CALM • Ideal for Parties, Birthday Celebrations & Christenings 74 / LOVE SUMMER IN CORNWALL love_summer_12_pg74-81.indd 2
Food glorious food.
5/30/2012 12:20:43 PM
FEELING PECKISH
Best places to eat for under £10 Here are some tried and tested places to go for good, tasty food at a price that won’t break the bank. Godrevy Café at Gwithian is a casual and laid back affair with great views and even better food. Their Sunday brunches are the stuff of legend, get there early if you want to avoid the queues. Open from 10am. (01736 757999). Godrevy Café, Gwithian, Hayle, TR27 5ED. The award-winning Blas Burgerworks in St Ives is one of the best meals you can get for a tenner. The team is committed to sourcing fresh, local, seasonal food for their gourmet burgers. £10 will get you ‘The Real Deal’ - a Blas classic beef or bean burger with chips and a bottle of Cornish lager or a glass of house wine all in. Open every day from 6pm – 10pm. (www.blasburgerworks.co.uk, 01736 79 72 72). The Warren,St Ives, TR26 2EA. Miss Peapod’s Kitchen Café, Falmouth. With an emphasis on organic and local produce this café offers excellent value for money and a great kids menu. All the items on the main menu come in at under £10. Sunday to Thursday 10am until 6pm. Fridays and Saturdays 10am until 10.30pm and 12.30am respectively. (www.misspeapod.co.uk, 01326 374424). Falmouth Jubilee Wharf, Penryn. Polpeor Café at Lizard Point is a brilliant stop-off for breath-taking views and home cooking. The operation is housed in a corrugated ironroofed shed and lays claim to being the most southerly café on mainland Britain. Open for evening meals during peak holiday season. (01326 290939). Polpeor Café, Lizard Point, Helston TR12 7NU. Gylly Beach Café is right on Falmouth’s famous Gyllyngvase beach. A long deck with deep padded sofas is the ideal spot to shrug off life’s cares and admire the views of the Lizard peninsula. Everything on the lunchtime menu is under £10. The evening menu is a little more expensive. Open seven days a week from 9am until late every night. (www.gyllybeach.com, 01326 312884). Gylly Beach Cafe, Cliff Road, Falmouth TR11 4PA.
Archie Browns in Penzance and Truro (incidentally two of the best towns in Cornwall to wander around) serve mouth-watering vegetarian food that even satisfies hungry carnivores. Abundant salads festooned with seeds and nuts come with meltingly good focaccia. Quiche, homity pie and stuffed field mushrooms are some of the specials. The beetroot chocolate cake is unbelievably good! The café opens daily from 9am – 5pm except Sundays. (www.archiebrowns.co.uk, 01736 362828 Pz or 01872 278622 Truro). Bread Street, Penzance, TR18 2EQ and 105-106 Kenwyn St, Truro TR1 3BX. South Café in Manaccan near the Helford River is a calm and welcoming retreat in one of the most picturesque villages in Cornwall. The menu board changes regularly to make the most of what’s on offer. On sunny days sit out in the south-facing courtyard, or in the event of inclement weather head for a seat near the woodburner inside. Open from 10.30 in the morning until late evening. (www.south-cafe.co.uk, 01326 231331). Manaccan TR12 6HR Larsson’s Coffee House and Creperie in Looe is one of the county’s best kept secrets. This intimate Scandinavian-style coffee house serves what many customers claim is the best coffee in Cornwall, not to mention great hot chocolate and delicious French crêpes, cakes, gateaux, continental beers, French wine and all with a warm and welcoming atmosphere. Open all year round. (www.larssonscoffeehouse.com, 01503 265368). 7, Buller Street, East Looe PL13 1AS. The Cook Book Café and Bookshop in St Just is a book and food lover’s dream come true. Fresh local line-caught mackerel smoked on the premises; baguettes, breakfasts and home-baked ham, great coffee, homemade cakes, the daily papers and 5,000 books. Children and dog friendly. Open 10am until 5pm all summer. (www.thecookbookstjust.co.uk, 01736 787266). 4 Cape Cornwall Street, St. Just TR19 7JZ.
Muffins Deli in Lostwithiel is committed to buying Cornish produce wherever possible. All the cakes, including the famous muffins they are named after, are homemade and the lunch menu includes a great value taster plate with the best the region has to offer for £7.50. Open Tuesday to Saturday 10am to 4pm. (www.muffinsdeli.co.uk, 01208 872278). 32 Fore Street, Lostwithiel PL22 0BN.
Godrevy at Gwithian Hot sausage and mustard.
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LOVE SUMMER IN CORNWALL / 75
5/31/2012 10:06:10 AM
FEELING PECKISH
Fine Dining You can enjoy a world-class meal in Cornwall. A growing number of talented chefs have established their kitchens here, drawing foodies and accolades from far and wide. The finest ingredients, fish so fresh it’s virtually still wet and the views are just some of the elements that make fine dining in Cornwall an experience to remember. All of the places mentioned here are firmly established on the food award circuits. They also offer relative value for money when you consider the same fare further up the line would come with a far heftier price tag. Sam’s on the Beach, Fowey This restaurant is hugely popular with locals and visitors alike. Located in an old lifeboat station right on the beach at Polkerris you can come here for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Sam’s serves up super-fresh, reasonably priced seafood, wood-fired pizzas, and there’s even a children’s menu. Open from 8am until 10pm daily. (www.samsfowey.co.uk, 01726 812255). Polkerris, Par PL24 2TL. Restaurant Nathan Outlaw, St Enodoc Hotel Cornwall’s hottest new name in cooking has gathered a massive following, his two-Michelin starred restaurant at the St Enodoc Hotel is always fully booked. A tasting menu offering a cross section of the flavours from his kitchen costs £85 a head. Opening times dinner only; Open Tuesdays to Saturdays from 7pm until 9pm. (www.nathan-outlaw.com, 01208 862737). St Enodoc Hotel, Rock PL27 6LA. The Seafood Restaurant, Padstow Freshly landed fish served with flair. This Rick Stein restaurant is famed and invariably full. No reservations are needed, however, to eat at the seafood bar in the centre of the dining room. Oysters, sushi and other house specials are prepared in front of you. Open every day from midday until 2.30pm for lunch and 6.30pm until 10pm for dinner.(www.rickstein. com, 01841 532700). Riverside, Padstow PL28 8BY. Fifteen Cornwall, Watergate Bay An eating experience as well as a global social enterprise, Jamie Oliver’s ever-popular restaurant for apprentice chefs serves Italian-inspired dishes which use Cornish ingredients. Reservations are essential. Open for breakfast from 8.30am until 10am; from noon until 4.30pm for lunch and from 6.15pm until 9.15pm for dinner. (www.fi www.fifteencornwall.co.uk fteencornwall.co.uk, 01637 861000 ). Watergate Bay, Newquay TR8 4AA. The Gurnard’s Head near Zennor, St Ives This is pub at the end of the county is fast becoming one of the nation’s favourites. The restaurant serves seasonal food done simply and to towering standards of taste. The views are amazing whatever the weather. (www.gurnardshead.co.uk, www.gurnardshead.co.uk, 01736 796928). www.gurnardshead.co.uk The Gurnard’s Head, Nr Zennor, St. Ives TR26 3DE. The Black Rock, St Ives For the second year in a row, this small and very reasonably priced restaurant has been awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand Award.
The secret is in the sourcing of fresh, locally harvested ingredients and the creativity in the kitchen. Open Monday to Saturday from 6pm. The early evening three- course set menu costs £17.95. (www.theblackrockstives.co.uk, 01736 791911). Market Place, St Ives TR26 1RZ. Driftwood Hotel, The Roseland Peninsula Head chef, Chris Eden is the first Cornishman to be awarded a Michelin star in Cornwall. You can enjoy his culinary skills at this boutique hotel near the pretty village of Portscatho near St Mawes. Locally-sourced food and stunning views making a winning combination. (www.driftwoodhotel.co.uk, 01872 580644). Rosevine, Portscatho, Cornwall TR2 5EW. New Yard Restaurant, Trelowarren Apart from being one of our guest interviewee, Jenny Agutter’s favourite restaurants, this well-kept Cornish secret is also famed for its excellent food and has the AA awards to prove it. Locally sourced, fresh, seasonal Cornish ingredients, and just about everything, including the bread, is freshly made on site. Open Wednesday to Saturday, from 8.30am-10.00am for breakfast. Morning coffee from 10.30am. Lunch is served from midday until 2pm, and dinner is from 7pm until 9pm. Open on Sundays from 8.30am until 2.30pm. (www.newyardrestaurant.co.uk, 01326 221224). Trelowarren, Helston TR12 6AF. Kota in Porthleven This place has had so many fantastic write-ups it’s hard to know where to start. Recognised by all the major food publications (Good Food Guide, The Michelin Guide, The AA, The Trencherman’s Guide, and the list goes on…) for its innovative menus, this place is a must for any serious foodie. Open Tuesday to Saturday 6pm until 9pm. (www.kotarestaurant.co.uk, 01326 562407). Harbour Head, Porthleven, Helston TR13 9JA. Harris’s, Penzance Harris’s Restaurant is a small, yet highly acclaimed restaurant in the heart of Penzance. It has been in the Harris family for over 30 years and its owners put their success down to their fish and shellfish caught on the day by nearby Newlyn’s famous fishing fleet. Their meat and locally grown fresh produce all come from local farms. Open from midday for lunch and again from 7pm for dinner. (www.harrissrestaurant.co.uk, 01736 364408). 46 New Street, Penzance,TR18 2LZ.
Bon Appetit! 76 / LOVE SUMMER IN CORNWALL love_summer_12_pg74-81.indd 4
While we're in the mood.
5/30/2012 12:23:45 PM
The Golden Lion Inn & Lakeside Restaurant New Yard Restaurant
Trelowarren Estate, Mawgan, Helston
Great Food in a Lovely Location Open all year round Award-winning Real Ales Extensive Wine List Beautiful Garden Shelter Three real log fires Light and airy restaurant Traditional Cornish Bar Area Free Wi-Fi Access Dogs welcome in Bar Area Tapas Every Friday 6-9pm
Lunch Menu £20 2 courses or £25 3 courses Dinner £27 3 courses Accommodation available please see website.
Stithians Lake, TR16 6NW 01209 860332 www.golden-lion-inn.co.uk
love eating out? find great deals at local restaurants, bars and cafes on
bag yourself a bargain at www.thisiscornwall.co.uk/bid4it
Franckly Delicious no Mess, no Fuss, no Work For you Personal French chef service t: 07725 051 972 w: www.francklydelicious.co.uk Cold jelly and custard.
love_summer_12_pg74-81.indd 5
OPENING HOURS: Monday to Saturday 8.30-10.00 breakfast, 10.30 morning coffee, 12.00 - 2.00 lunch, 7.00 - 9.00 dinner Sunday 8.30-10.00 breakfast, 10.30 morning coffee, 12.00 - 2.30 traditional Sunday lunch
01326 221595
www.newyardrestaurant.co.uk LOVE SUMMER IN CORNWALL / 77
5/30/2012 12:25:39 PM
FEELING PECKISH
Fish and Chips In all our years of fish-and-chip-chomping in Cornwall, we have never had a bad meal. That’s because the raw materials that go in to this simple and yet sublime dish are two of the things Cornwall does best. The move towards fresh, locally caught sustainable fish has been championed by many of our local fish and chip shop owners. Local farms are increasingly providing the potatoes that make the delicious golden chips. Fierce competition means standards are high and prices very reasonable. Go on, treat yourself! Porthminster Beach Cafe Takeaway in St Ives has an award winning fish and chips outlet downstairs beneath the café. Enjoy the great view over the entire bay from the seating area on the beach. (porthminstercafe.co.uk, 01736 795352) Porthminster Beach, St Ives TR26 2EB Opening hours 11am until 7.30pm daily. Stein’s Fish and Chips, Padstow Come and see what all the hype is about. Try celebrity chef dining without the price tag, right in the heart of foodie Padstow. Opening hours are 12pm to 2.30pm for lunch and again at 5pm until 8pm for dinner, with later closing times on Friday and Saturday evenings. (www.rickstein.com). South Quay, Padstow. Rick Stein’s Fish, Falmouth Again, this fish and chips outlet is part of the Rick Stein empire, only this time it’s in Falmouth. You can dine in or takeaway. Opening times for the restaurant and takeaway are 12 noon until 2.30pm for lunch and 5pm until 9pm for dinner. Discovery Quay, Falmouth TR11 3XA. (www.rickstein.com). Harbour Lights in Falmouth is a perennial favourite. Though virtually all serious fish and chip shops now serve sustainably-caught, local fish, Harbour Lights was one of the first to do so. This year the team won the Good Catch Award from the National Fish and Chips Awards 2012 in recognition of their passion for quality, ethically sourced fish. The stuff tastes great as well. Open 11.30am until 9pm. (www.harbourlights.co.uk, 01326 316934). Harbour Lights Restaurant, Arwenack Street, Falmouth TR11 3LH
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The Lifeboat House in Coverack on the Lizard Peninsula is run by two brothers and the fish comes from the waters right in front of their set-up. While you can dine in style in the restaurant there’s also an excellent fish and chip takeaway service serving super-fresh fish on-site. (www.lifeboathouse.com, 01326 281212) Opening hours are 10am until 2pm and again 6pm until 9pm, excluding Sundays and Mondays. The Lifeboat House Restaurant, the Cove, Coverack, Helston TR12 6SX. Peckish Fish and Chips This fish and chip shop in Camelford has people travelling from all over Cornwall and beyond to enjoy the taste of their award-winning fare. Open Tuesday to Saturday from 12pm to 1.30pm for lunch and again from 5pm to 9pm for dinner. (Closed Sundays and Mondays). (www.peckishfishandchips.co.uk, 01840 213587). 8 Victoria Road, Camelford PL32 9TH Roland’s Happy Plaice in Porthleven is an award-winning fish and chip shop that puts the emphasis on making real, traditional fish and chips. They come in generous portions too! Open throughout the summer from 12 noon until 8pm. (www.rolandshappyplaice.co.uk, 01326 562723). Shute Lane, Porthleven TR13 9DS Becks Fish and Chips in St Ives is virtually an institution in the town with queues out the door on busy nights. Aside from the wide range of fresh fish on offer, this is one of the few places in the country that also uses gluten-free batter. Open Tuesdays to Saturdays from 4.45pm until 9.30pm. Open for lunch on Fridays and Saturdays from 11.45 until 1.30pm. Also open on Monday evenings during the school holidays. (01736 796241) St Ives Road, Longstone, St. Ives, TR26 2LJ. Port and Starboard at Indian Queens is consistently voted one of the best fish and chip shops in Cornwall. Open Monday to Saturday for lunch from 12.00 to 2.00pm and diner from 4.45pm until 8.00pm. (www.theportandstarboard.co.uk, 01726 860270). Open on Sundays in peak season. Indian Queens, St. Columb TR9 6JZ
Pease pudding and saveloys.
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The ancient stone quays, the fishing boats unloading the morning’s catch, the piercing shriek of the gulls… The picture of the typical cornish fishing village or coastal town is alluring, but those seagulls can be a real nuisance to residents and visitors alike. in summer it’s not uncommon to see herring gulls swoop down and grab food out of the hands of adults and children alike. and the residents of most cornish towns know only too well if household rubbish is left out in anything less secure than a solid bin with a heavy lid, then it’s as a good as an invitation to winged vandalism as the food waste gets strewn around the streets. and yet culling the gulls isn’t really an option – the herring gull is actually a species in decline and is protected in law. Town and parish councils across cornwall are all familiar with the problem, and have tried various solutions – but the best approach is still prevention. Try not to leave food or food scraps in the open, cover up household waste and never deliberately feed a gull. You will invoke the wrath of the Cornish!
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Eat Out Cornwall is the No.1 on-line restaurant guide to eating out in Cornwall. You will find endless choices of dining throughout the County. The great advantage of Eat Out Cornwall is that we cover a broad range of restaurant types and cuisine. So whether its lowcost eating out with the children or candle-lit dining on that special occasion, you will probably find the restaurant you need near you on Eat Out Cornwall. To win a meal for two at a Cornish Restaurant log onto eatoutcornwall.com, answer a simple question and you could be dining out for FREE at one of Cornwall’s top restaurants find us
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what next is the question?
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Are you on a gluten or wheat free diet and fancy a delicious pasty? Our handmade gluten free pasty pies are available in three delicious fillings; Traditional steak. Cheese & onion. Cheese & seasonal vegetables.
Now everyone can enjoy the taste of a Cornish pasty Please call for opening hours and stockists
The Little Gluten Free Pasty-Pie, Treleavens, Fore Street, Tintagel, Cornwall PL34 0DA 07977058203 • 01840 770121 www.glutenfreepastypie.co.uk love summer in cornwall / 79
5/30/2012 5:11:57 PM
FEELING PECKISH
Dog friendly eateries Cornwall’s beautiful walks make it a great place to come on holiday with a dog. Here are some establishments that will be happy to give Fido floor space. They’ve also been chosen for their charm, reasonable prices and great food. The Cook Book Café and Bookshop in St Just, mentioned earlier in the ‘Where to eat for under £10 section) is also a dog friendly cafe. Open 10am until 5pm all summer. (www.thecookbookstjust.co.uk, 01736 787266). 4 Cape Cornwall Street, St. Just, TR19 7JZ. Tinner’s Arms at Zennor This atmospheric pub is a world away from the hustle and bustle of modern life. No TV, fruit machines or mobile phone signals – just stone flagged floors, open fires and real ale. Dogs are also welcome in the pub which was built in 1271 to house the masons who built St Senara’s Church opposite. Closed Monday evening. (www.tinnersarms.com, 01736 796927). Zennor, St Ives TR26 3BY. The Loft in St Ives has great views over St Ives Bay and Godrevy Lighthouse which you can take in while you enjoy a coffee, a glass of wine or something more substantial. The Loft is open every day. Lunch is served from midday and dinner from 6pm. Dogs are welcome on the terrace. (www.theloftrestaurantandterrace.co.uk, 01736 794204). Norway Lane, St Ives TR26 1LZ. The Watering Hole on Perranporth Beach is set right in the dunes and in the evening you can sit on the deck and watch the sun set right in front of you. The hot chocolate here is as great as the views, and dogs are welcome. Open every day 9am until 9pm throughout the summer. (www.the-wateringhole.co.uk, 01872 572888). Perranporth Beach TR6 0JL. The Waterside at Flushing is very dog friendly, two canine regulars are even featured on the café/restaurant website, and they look very happy to be there! This place is run by a trio of talented chefs making the most of the great resources on their door step. Fresh fish and shell fish are a house speciality, prices are very reasonable and the views over Falmouth Harbour are stunning. (www.watersideflushing.co.uk, 01326 373734). Flushing Quay, Flushing TR11 5TY.
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Daisy’s Café in East Looe specialises in great value home-made food and Merlin and Bagel their breakfasts are locally renowned. Dogs are welcome. (07988 803315). Castle Street, East Looe PL13 1BA. The Lifebuoy Café in Fowey prides itself on its list of local suppliers for the ingredients that go in to the delicious food. The bread comes from the town bakery and their award winning sausages are from the locally-famed Mr Kittows, the butcher. The crab is locally caught and best of all, this firm Fowey favourite is very dog (and family) friendly. (www.thelifebuoycafe.co.uk, 07715075869). 8 Lostwithiel St, Fowey, PL23 1BD. Loe Beach, Feock. This great little café is a few meters back from the pebble beach which is also home to a well-equipped water sports centre. Open every day from 10am until 5pm and Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings from 6pm until 10pm. Dogs are allowed on the beach here all year around. (www.loebeachcafe.co.uk, 07940 240833). Feock, Truro TR3 6SH. The Beach Hut at Watergate Bay serves up fresh and tasty bistro food at one of Cornwall’s best-known beach-side hang-outs. Open seven days a week for breakfast, lunch and dinner through summer. Dogs are given a warm welcome. (www.watergatebay.co.uk/thebeachhut.htm, 01637 860877). The Beach Hut , On The Beach, Watergate Bay TR8 4AA. The Roseland Inn at Philleigh is a delightful pub in the heart of The Roseland with its own micro-brewery and farm shop. The pub is full of old Cornish charm and is just around the corner from the King Harry Ferry, one of Cornwall’s most historic river crossing points. Food is local, seasonal and great and dogs are regulars here. (www.roselandinn.co.uk, 01872 580254). Philleigh-in-Roseland, Truro TR2 5NB. It’s worth mentioning that a dog ban operates on some Cornish beaches throughout the summer. If you are unsure about whether your fourlegged friend is allowed on the sand, check online with a guide such as: www.thecornishcoast.co.uk.
Food glorious food.
5/30/2012 12:31:50 PM
what is there more handseome?
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love summer in cornwall / 81
5/31/2012 5:31:12 PM
RESTAURANT LISTINGS
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ROSEWARNE MANOR RESTAURANT
HARBOUR RESTAURANT AT THE METROPOLE
THE GARDEN ROOM - BISTRO & BAR FALMOUTH
Open: Tues to Sat in the Summer. 12pm – 2.30pm (last food orders) and from 6pm – 11pm (last bookings 9pm). Sunday 12pm – 2.30 and 6pm – 8pm (last food orders).
Open: 7 days a week 6.30pm – 9pm. Sunday lunch 12pm – 2pm.
Open: Daily 11am – 11pm. Sunday / Lunch 12pm – 2pm. Dinner 6.30pm – 9pm.
Address: Gwinear Rd, Connor Downs, Hayle TR27 5JQ
Website: www.the-metropole.co.uk
Address: The Metropole Hotel, Padstow, Cornwall PL28 8DB
Address: Princess Pavilion, 41 Melvill Road, Falmouth TR11 4AR Website: www.princesspavilion.co.uk
Email: reservations@richardsonhotels.co.uk
Website: www.rosewarnemanor.co.uk
Email: princesspavilion@carrickleisure.org.uk
Tel: 01841 532 486
Email: enquiries@rosewarnemanor.co.uk
Tel: 01326 211222
Tel: 01209 610414
CUISINE GUIDE
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PORTH VEOR MANOR
THE VICTORIA INN THREEMILESTONE
THE TERRACE ST IVES HARBOUR HOTEL
Open: All day for Breakfast, Morning Coffee, Light Lunches and Afternoon Tea. Early Bird Special and Kids Menu available 5.30pm – 7pm. A la Carte Dinner from 7pm – 9pm.
Open: Daily for Breakfast from 7.30am. Daily Carvery, Lunch Menu & Specials available 12pm – 2pm. Evening menu, specials & Carvery available 6pm – 9pm. Open daily 7.30am – 11pm.
Open: 9.00am – 9.00pm – subject to the weather, Food served 12.00pm – 9.00pm.
Address: Porth Way, Porth, Cornwall TR7 3LW Website: www.porthveormanor.com
Address: Chyvelah Road, Threemilestone, Truro, Cornwall TR3 6BY
Website: www.stives-harbour-hotel.co.uk
Email: enquiries@porthveormanor.com/ beaucliffes
Website: www.thevicinn.com Email: booking@thevicinn.com
Tel: 01637 873274
Tel: 01872 278313
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Address: St Ives Harbour Hotel, Restaurant and Spa, The Terrace, ST Ives TR26 2BN Email: stives@harbourhotels.co.uk Tel: 01736 795221
Gulped swallowed or chewed.
5/31/2012 12:16:31 PM
RESTAURANT LISTINGS
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THE POINT POLZEATH
FOWEY HOTEL
NEW YARD RESTAURANT
Open: Monday to Saturday, 8am – 11pm. Sunday, 8.30am – 10.30pm.
Open: Lunch 12pm – 2.30pm. Afternoon Tea 2.30pm – 5pm. Dinner 6.30pm – 9pm. Sunday Lunch 12pm – 2.30pm.
Open: Mon – Sat 8.30am – 10.00am breakfast, 10.30am morning coffee, 12.00pm – 2.00pm lunch, 7.00pm – 9.00pm dinner. Sunday 8.30am – 10.00am breakfast, 10.30am morning coffee, 12.00pm – 2.30pm traditional Sunday lunch.
Address: St Minver, Nr Polzeath, Cornwall PL27 6QT
Address: Esplanade, Fowey PL23 1HX
Website: www.thepointatpolzeath.co.uk
Website: www.thefoweyhotel.co.uk
Email: restaurant@thepointatpolzeath.co.uk
Address: Trelowarren Estate, Mawgan, Helston
Email: reservations@thefoweyhotel.co.uk
Tel: 01208 864602
Website: www.newyardrestaurant.co.uk
Tel: 01726 832551
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Tel: 01326 221595
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BAREFOOT KITCHEN
SEINERS ARMS
THE POLURRIAN BAY HOTEL MULLION
Open: 11am – 7pm (plus ‘pop-up’ ocean sunset nights, see website for details). The cafe is licensed Closed Mondays.
Open: Daily from 11am. Lunch 12pm – 3pm. Dinner 6pm – 9pm.
Open: Mon – Sat / Lunch 12pm. Dinner 6.30pm – 9pm. Sunday Lunch 12pm – 2.30pm. Dinner 6.30pm – 9pm. All day menu available.
Address: @ Halzephron House (top of hill overlooking ocean), Gunwalloe, Nr Helston TR12 7QD Website: www.barefootkitchen.com Tel: 01326 240517
Still worth a kings ransom.
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Address: Seiners Hotel, Beachfront, Perranporth TR6 0DP
Address: Polurrian Bay, Mullion TR12 7EN
Website: www.seiners.co.uk
Website: www.polurrianhotel.com
Email: info@seiners.co.uk
Email: info@polurrianhotel.com
Tel: 01872 573118
Tel: 01326 240421
LOVE SUMMER IN CORNWALL / 83
5/31/2012 10:12:18 AM
RESTAURANT LISTINGS
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SILKS BISTRO & CHAMPAGNE BAR
SOUTH CAFE
THE OLIVE GROVE
Open: Seven days a week from 11am until late.
Open: All day for coffee and cake from 10.30am until late with Lunch 12 – 2.30pm and Dinner from 6.30pm. May; Open Wed to Sat. June; Open Tues to Sat. High Summer open Mon to Sat.
Open: 7 days a week from 10am – 5.30 Mon to Sun, breakfast lunch & High Tea. Sun menu’s from 12.30pm. Tappas evenings every Fri from 7pm.
Address: Atlantic Hotel, Dane Road, Newquay TR7 1EN Website: www.silksbistro.co.uk Tel: 01637 839048
CUISINE GUIDE
Address: South Cafe, Manaccan, Helston, Cornwall TR12 6HR
Address: The Olive Grove, Cornish Garden Nurseries, Barras Moor Farm, Perranarworthal, Truro, Cornwall TR3 7PE
Website: www.south-cafe.com
Website: www.the-olive-grove.co.uk
Email: ask@south-cafe.com
Email: theolivegrove@live.co.uk
Tel: 01326 231331
Tel: 01872 870867
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SEA SIDE RESTAURANT
ST MORITZ RESTAURANT
PENMERE MANOR HOTEL FALMOUTH
Open: 7 days per week 11am – 6pm for food, cocktails, coffee and cream teas (meals served between midday and 5pm).
Open: 7 days per week, 6.30pm – 9.30pm (daily a la carte menu). Sunday Lunch: midday until 2.30pm (3 courses for £24). Hotel Bar Menu: 7 days per week from midday until 10pm.
Open: Monday – Sat / Summer Bar Snack Menu from 12pm – 2pm. Sunday Lunches 12pm – 2pm Dinner 7pm – 9pm daily.
Address: St Moritz Hotel and Garden Villas, Trebetherick, Cornwall PL27 6SD
Website: www.penmere.co.uk
Address: St Moritz Hotel and Garden Villas, Trebetherick, Cornwall PL27 6SD Tel: 01208 862242 Website: www.stmoritzhotel.co.uk Email: reception@stmoritzhotel.co.uk
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Tel: 01208 862242 Website: www.stmoritzhotel.co.uk
Address: Mongleath Road, Falmouth TR11 4PN Email: reservations@penmere.co.uk Tel: 01326 211411
Email: reception@stmoritzhotel.co.uk
What is it we dream about?
5/31/2012 12:17:59 PM
RESTAURANT LISTINGS
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BLUE HAZE, PORTHLEVEN
THE FERRYBOAT INN HELFORD
MARINE BAR & RESTAURANT, FALMOUTH
Open: Thursday & Saturday lunchtimes, Monday – Saturday evenings.
Open: Bar; 11am – 11am. Food; 12-3pm and 6pm – 9pm.
Address: Mount Pleasant Road, Porthleven
Address: Helford passage, Falmouth, TR11 5LB
Website: www.bluehazerestaurant.com
Website: www.thewrightbrothers.co.uk
Open: Every day 10am – late. Breakfast 10am – 11:45am. Lunch 11:45am – 2:30pm. Dinner 6pm – 9:30pm
Tel: 01326 564424
Email: manager@ferryboatinnhelford.com
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Address: Falmouth Yacht Marina, North Parade, Falmouth, TR11 2TD
Tel: 01326 250625
Website: www.marinebarfalmouth.com Tel: 01326 221595
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CORNWALL TATE ST IVES CAFE
QUARTERDECK AT THE NARE VERYAN
CORNWALL’S NO.1 GUIDE TO EATING OUT
Open: Daily 10am – 4.50pm. Enjoy breakfast, lunch or afternoon tea overlooking Porthmeor Beach and the Atlantic Ocean.
Open: Seven days a week from 10am for morning coffee, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner. Last orders for lunch is 2.30pm and 9.30pm for dinner.
This independent all Cornish website is an excellent point of reference for information on “Where to eat in Cornwall”.
Address: Porthmeor Beach, St Ives, Cornwall TR26 1TG
Address: The Nare Hotel, Carne Beach, Veryan-in-Roseland, Truro, TR2 5PF
Website: www.eatoutcornwall.com
Website: www.tate.org.uk/stives
Website: www.quarterdeckrestaurant.co.uk
Email: visiting.stives@tate.org.uk
Email: office@narehotel.co.uk
Tel: 01736 796226
Tel: 01872 501111 / 01872 500 000
What brings on a sigh? Piled peaches and cream about six feet high.
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Email: support@eatoutcornwall.com To win a meal for two at a Cornish Restaurant log onto www.eatoutcornwall.com, answer a simple question and you could be dining out for FREE at one of Cornwall’s top restaurants. LOVE SUMMER IN CORNWALL / 85
5/31/2012 10:14:20 AM
CORNISH ICE CREAM
The cream of Cornwall
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Forget bright yellow dollops of fast melting foam that have never been near a vanilla pod, Cornish ice cream is the real deal. Over the years a vibrant cottage industry has grown up that makes the most of our wonderful dairy herds and locally grown fresh fruit. Innovative flavours and recipes that have been handed down through the generations have also played their part. Here are some of the local producers winning awards and converts. JELBERTS, NEWLYN This place truly has to be one of Cornwall’s best kept secrets. Their ice cream is so good they thrive almost exclusively by word of mouth. No website, no listed telephone number even! But luckily we have eyes and ears on the ground who can confirm this small place is still open and still making “the best ice cream in the world!” Like most of the other Cornish ice cream makers, this product is made courtesy of the dairy herd on the family-run farm. Unlike all the others though, the family-run outfit makes only one flavour. But don’t be fooled. What they lack in variety they make up for in quality. Made to a family recipe handed down for generations this clotted cream ice cream is made fresh every day and has a cult following among the ice cream cognoscenti.
CALLESTICK ICE CREAM, NEAR TRURO Callestick Farm Ice Cream is all made down on the farm where the dedicated team has been making ice cream for more than 23 years and the recipe has changed very little. The fresh milk comes from the small herd of about 100 Friesian cows. “We pamper their socks off and in return they give us beautifully creamy milk that is pumped straight into the factory where it is made into around 30 different flavours of ice cream,” says Callestick’s Melanie Marsh. The Callestick team uses a less sweet base mix than most. They then add lashings” of locally produced Rodda’s cream to make the ice cream rich and indulgent. “We use the best fruits and fanciest confectionery, nothing artificial is added and none of the rich dairy goodness is removed,” says Melanie. Callestick Ice Cream, Truro TR4 9LL. (www.callestickfarm.co.uk, 01872 573126).
MR B’S, HAYLE Knicker Bocker Glories, Banana Splits and Chocolate Nut Sundaes are all on the specials board at this classic ice cream parlour. Mr B’s serves up mouth-watering creations on a daily basis. “Our ice creams are made each and every day, seven days a week, using both locally sourced products and fine Italian ingredients,” says Charlotte Barden. This classic set-up has 240 flavours ranging from timeless vanilla to exotic fresh fruit sorbets. Then there are the smoothies and milkshakes, hand made fudges and other deadly indulgences including ice cream cakes and hot waffles. “We make sure our ice cream is fresh, fresh, fresh. Then we make as much of everything else as we possibly can, from fudge sticks, to the fruit salad and waffles,” adds Charlotte. Mr B’s, 24 Penpol Terrace, Hayle TR27 4EQ. (www.mrbsicecream.co.uk, 01736 758580).
To try the stuff of legend head for 9, New Road, Newlyn, Near Penzance TR18 5PZ.
Mr B’s Ice Cream, Hayle I scream, you scream, we all scream for ice cream!
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5/29/2012 7:10:09 PM
CORNISH ICE CREAM
MOOMAID ICECREAM, ZENNOR
TRELEAVENS ICE CREAM, LOOE
The half mermaid, half cow logo on these quirky tubs is out of this world and so is the ice cream!
These award-winning, handmade ice creams are favoured by top local chefs from Rick Stein to Paul Ainsworth at his restaurant, No6 in Padstow.
“We use great quality ingredients and we’re always improving our recipes - we aren’t afraid to change things,” says Moomaid manager, Rob Monies. “The sourcing of ingredients is key – there’s so much to choose from in terms of chocolates, cocoa powders, vanillas, caramels and they vary massively – the only way to find the best is to try them all – I spend hours trialling ingredients in the ice cream parlour. I think you can really taste that we use good quality ingredients.” The ice creams and sorbets come in 30 flavours and are made on the farm using milk from the farm herd and fruit that has been picked in its prime. “We produce on a small scale so attention to detail is key – its all about quality for us and not quantity. Our ice creams are all about luxury and indulgence,” he adds. New flavours for 2012 include sea salt caramel, fig and mascarpone and rhubarb and orange. Sample these delights and others at the Moomaid Icecream Parlours in St Ives (1, Wharf Road TR26 1LG. 01736 799285) and Porthtowan (Beach Road TR4 8AD. 01209 890500). For more information go to www.moomaidofzennor.com.
Moomaid
The secret of this high-end luxury product, say its makers, is in the churning which is all done by hand using a traditional method. This means the amount of air churned in to the mix is significantly lower that most other ice creams. “Ice cream geeks love our products,” says owner Andrew Treleaven. “Our exacting methods mean you get more ice cream and less air in each spoonful. When you add air you then have to add fats to keep the creamy taste – which means while it tastes OK it’s not doing you much good. Our ice creams are rich in flavour and full of fresh wholesome ingredients.” On top of their 98 flavours already available they have also brought out a limited special edition for the Jubilee and another one for the Olympics. The Treleavens Jubliee special edition is made from sparking white chocolate and raspberry ice cream. Treleavens Luxury Cornish Ice Cream, East Looe PL13 1QQ. (www.treleavens.co.uk, 01503 262499).
of Zennor
Tuesdays, Mondays, we all scream for sundaes!
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LOVE SUMMER IN CORNWALL / 87
5/29/2012 7:12:36 PM
CORNISH ICE CREAM
HELSETT FARM ICE CREAM, BOSCASTLE “We’re fanatical about our ice cream and about making everything ourselves,” says Helsett Farm Ice Cream’s Sarah Talbot-Ponsonby. “It’s a right fandango sometimes because when we decided to go organic we couldn’t find organic butterscotch chips, so now we make those ourselves as well.” It’s this attention to detail and keen eye for traditional methods that have foodies flocking to exclusive food halls like Harrods and Selfridges for this ice cream. The sweet flavoured milk from the herd of pedigree Ayrshire cows add their own magic to the mix. But the mother and daughter team behind the brand also stick to their guns when it comes to modern tricks like emulsifiers. “We do things the old-fashioned way and use eggs,” says Sarah. “This very traditional method means the texture is a little different, not as smooth as some – but it means there’s no oiliness on the tongue after you eat it. “We don’t homogenise our ice cream either because we just don’t believe that’s good for you. But we find out traditional methods give our ice creams an amazing taste and we have a fervent following who believe that as well!”
ROSKILLY’S ORGANIC ICE CREAM This artisan ice cream is made using organic milk and cream from the farm’s 94-strong herd of Jersey cows which grazes on pastures that have been farmed in a traditional and sustainable way for generations. “We are quite unique as we produce all the inclusion, caramel sauces and fruit coulis ourselves here on the farm,” says Silke Roskilly. “We do not use any artificial flavours and all the ice cream is made from our own organic, rich Jersey milk and cream.” The farm is also a great place to take children for a fun day out. Along side the animals you can see how everything’s made and try some of their fabulous ices in situ. Prices range from £1.85 for a big single scoop cone to £3.70 for a large whopper cone of ice cream. Roskilly Ice Cream & Organic Farm, Tregellast Barton, St. Keverne, Helston TR12 6NX. (www.roskillys.co.uk, 01326 280479).
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Helsett Farm Ice Cream, Lesnewth, Boscastle PL35 0HP. (www.helsettfarm.com, 01840 261207).
Helsett Farm - Ay
rshire Cow
I scream, you scream, we all scream for ice cream!
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20% off when you buy two sumptuous ice cream sundaes at the farm Find us off the A3075 Redruth to Newquay Road e: info@callestickfarm.co.uk • t: 01872 573126
www.callestickfarm.co.uk
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5/29/2012 7:16:09 PM
WHAT’S ON
There’s so much to see and do JUNE 15th – 17th
16th
16th
16th – 17th
16th – 24th
Falmouth International Sea Shanty Festival Held in Falmouth and St Mawes. A rousing music festival that will shiver your timbers. www.falmouthseashanty.co.uk. Murdoch Day in Redruth is a day-long celebration in honour of the town’s famous inventor, William Murdoch. (He invented gas lighting). Expect non-stop music, entertainment and a street market. West of England Bandsmen’s Festival, Bugle In this centenary year of the festival more than 20 silver bands, brass bands and youth bands will compete for the festival’s prestigious awards. Saltash Regatta and Waterside Festival Cornish gig racing with 150 crews, free live music and major RNLI demonstrations on both days. www.saltashregatta.co.uk. Polperro Festival Nine days of live music, dance, comedy, lighting of the solstice bonfire, village carnival and a unique mock mayor choosing ceremony. www.polperrofestivalsandlights.co.uk.
JULY 2nd – 7th
The Pendennis Cup draws super-yachts to the waters of Falmouth Bay for four days of racing. www.thependenniscup.co.uk.
5th – 8th
Cornish Cricket Festival, Truro A celebration of top class cricket features two highprofile professional matches. www.cornishcricketfestival.co.uk.
6th – 8th
Mousehole Sea Salts and Sail Maritime Festival celebrates the heritage of West Cornwall’s most famous fishing village. www.seasalts.co.uk.
6th – 8th
Padstow Vintage Rally Live entertainment, a funfair, and a vast array of vintage and steam vehicles.
7th – 8th
Bodmin Riding and Heritage Day This event dating back centuries combine dancing, music and a drama about the Beast of Bodmin Moor. www.bodminridingandheritage.org.uk.
13th – 21st
Lafrowda Festival, St Just An annual celebration of the arts with street performers, stalls and three spectacular processions. www.lafrowda-festival.co.uk.
16th – 24th
Golowan Festival, Penzance This community arts festival (Golowan means mid summer in Cornish) is known for its music and the performing arts. www.golowan.org.
14th
22nd - 24th
The Rock Oyster Festival A midsummer celebration of music, food and art at 17th century Dinham House overlooking the Camel Estuary. www.rockoysterfestival.co.uk.
15th – 21st
23rd – 24th
Looe Festival of Food & Drink The best local produce and local suppliers get together to wow with their wares.
23rd – 24th
St Merryn Steam and Vintage Rally This popular local event features vintage tractors, steam engines, classic cars, and Cornish wrestling.
24th – 30th
Mevagissey Feast Week This festival which dates back to 1752 is thought to be the longest running in the county. Events include concerts, dances and fishing boat races. www.mevagisseyfeastweek.org.
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Liskeard Agricultural Show, Merrymeet One of the best agricultural shows in the South West with some of the large animal classes around. www.liskeardshow.org. Lostwithiel Carnival Week Morris dancing, Flora dancing, Cornish wrestling, duck races and cream teas are just some of the highlights in this week of revels.
15th
Marazion Carnival Live music, dancers, magic, Punch & Judy, demonstrations, games, a tug-of-war competition, cream teas and lots of stalls.
16th
Stithians Agricultural Show Cornwall’s biggest one-day show features music, food, craft stalls, a fairground, animals of all sorts and a dog show. www.stithiansshow.org.uk.
19th – 22nd
Port Eliot Festival A literary festival that attracts celebrities, music lovers and book worms. www.porteliotfestival.com.
Sitting with your friends cause y’all remincise, about the days growing up and the first person you kiss.
5/29/2012 7:28:23 PM
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5/31/2012 5:40:13 PM
WHAT’S ON
25th – 29th
26th
27th – 29th
28th - 3rd August
20th – 22nd
Penzance Literary Festival Billed, the best litfest in the West! Workshops, talks and books galore. www.penzance-literary-festival.org.uk. Launceston Agricultural Show Local produce, crafts, and of course impressive farm animals. www.launcestonshow.co.uk. Leopallooza in Bude Independent music festival described as the greatest house party in a field. www.leopallooza.com. Charlestown Regatta Week Highlights include a fun triathlon, raft races, donkey derby, live music and carnival. www.charlestownregatta.co.uk. Boconnoc Steam Fair, East Taphouse A lovely, old-fashioned fair featuring vintage vehicles and steam engines. www.lsvc.org
29th – 4th August
Looe Carnival Week The highlight of the Looe Lions’ calendar includes dancing, music and competitions. Everyone invited. www.looelions.co.uk.
30th – 4th August
Padstow Carnival Week Music, quizzes and a grand carnival parade.
31st – 10th
St Endellion Summer Music Festival Drawing in musicians from all over the world and has an international following. www.endellionfestivals.org.uk.
8th – 12th
Boardmasters Surf, Skate and Music Festival, Newquay This surf, skate and music festival dishes up ASP World Tour Surfing and a laid back vibe. www.boardmasters.co.uk
12th – 18th
Henri Lloyd Falmouth Week The largest sailing regatta in the south west with more than 300 yachts racing over eight days. www.falmouthweek.co.uk
17th – 19th
Cornwall Design Fair, Penzance Showcasing contemporary Cornish design including furniture, interior products, ceramics, glass, lighting, jewellery, textiles and fashion accessories all for sale.
17th – 19th
West of England Steam Engine Rally Stunning showmen’s engines with road rollers, ploughing engines, heavy haulage road locomotives and agricultural traction engines. www.weses.co.uk
18th
Bude Carnival. The event starts at 2pm at The Castle Grounds and a riotous procession winds through the town.
19th – 25th
Fowey Royal Regatta and Carnival Week One of Britain’s most popular sailing events. As ever the Red Arrows will do their annual aerial display over the harbour. www.foweyroyalregatta.co.uk.
21st – 23rd
Looe Music Festival Celebration of live music More than 40 bands playing on three music stages, from jazz and easy listening to folk, indie and rock. www.ilovelooe.co.uk.
25th
Portscatho Regatta A traditional regatta with a full programme of sailing over an exciting and highly visible course in the beautiful Gerrans Bay. www.pofsa.co.uk.
AUGUST 1st – 4th
Gunnislake Festival Exhibitions, competitions and musical entertainment for all the family. www.tamarvalley.org.uk.
3rd – 5th
Cornwall Folk Festival, Wadebridge Now in its fourth decade, bringing you a fabulous lin-up and a great atmosphere. www.wadebridgefolk.co.uk.
4th – 10th
Creation Fest, Wadebridge Creation Fest is a FREE Christian Music Festival and Bible Week held at the Royal Cornwall Showground in Wadebridge, Cornwall. www.creationfest.org.uk.
25th
Trereife Country Fayre, Penzance Ferret racing, a companion dog show, heavy shire horses, and a parade of hounds are some of the highlights of this traditional country fayre.
4th
Goldsithney Charter Fair, Penzance Featuring live music, street theatre, knights in armed combat, marching bands, games, Cornish wrestling and a dog show. www.goldsithneycharterfair.org.
26th
Party in the Park at Trereife, Penzance Cornwall’s best bands perform in front of a capacity crowd, all under canvas. www.trereifepark.co.uk.
27th
Newlyn Fish Festival The biggest celebration of the sea, seafood and fishing in the country. www.newlynfishfestival.org.uk.
8th
Camelford Agricultural Show It’s the 108th anniversary of the show that includes dog shows, vintage vehicle collections, sheep shearing displays and heavy horse show. www.camelfordshow.co.uk.
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28th – 31st
Bude Jazz Festival This year the theme is traditional and New Orleans Jazz.
And as I think back makes me wonder how, the smell from a grill could spark up nostalgia.
5/29/2012 7:29:25 PM
Win a 3 night Autumn break For 4 people self catering in the stunning Porthtowan beach houses
Name............................................................................................................................................................. Address.......................................................................................................................................................... ........................................................................................................................................................................ Email.............................................................................................................................................................. Contact.No.................................................................................................................................................... ‘Please.return.your.completed.form.to:.Aspects.Holidays,.First.Floor.Offices,.Unit.10,.Hayle. Business.Park,.Cornwall,.TR27.5JR.OR.email.us.at.hello@aspects-holidays.co.uk.with.your. name,.address,.and.phone.number..Please.quote.‘Porthtowan.Competition’.in.the.subject.line.. Please.ensure.that.you.are.available.to.come.on.holiday.between.29th.September-8th.December.2012.(excluding. school.holidays)..By.entering.the.competition.you.are.happy.for.Aspects.Holidays.to.contact.you.regarding.special. offers.and.promotions..Closing.date.for.entries:.31st.August.2012.
Cornwall’s holiday cottage specialists Call:.01736 754242.or.visit:.www.aspects-holidays.co.uk
love_summer_12_pg90-93.indd 5
5/29/2012 7:30:00 PM
DA O YS PEN AW 7 EE K over rs 20 yoefa e enc experi
We pride ourselves on customer service. Xpress is not just your local independent premiere car care centre; it is also an advanced Delphi diesel diagnostics repair centre, using the latest equipment, providing customers with a free detailed diagnostic printout. We have a comfortable customer waiting area with free hot drinks & TV where friendly staff are on hand to answer queries.
WIN Competition
WIN: £25 off a set of four new tyres MOT Diagnostic Check 4 HawkEye Elite Alignment Check COMPETITION QUESTION: What is the legal minimum tread depth for tyres in the uk? ANSWERS ON A POSTCARD: FAO Bella Jewell ,Xpress Garage, Unit 3/4 Tregoniggie Industrial Estate, Falmouth, Cornwall, TR11 4SN
01326 377997 www.xpressgarage.co.uk
mechanical repairs • MOT’s • tyres • clutches • cam belts • servicing • exhausts • brakes • air conditioning
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5/30/2012 10:08:45 AM
Moorlands Farm, Treesmill, Par, PL24 2TX /wingzbirdsanc
@wingzbirdsanc
01726 825222 / 07740 405251 www.wingzbirdsanctuary.co.uk enquiries@wingzbirdsanctuary.co.uk
Wingz Bird & Animal Sanctuary are giving readers the chance to win one of five sets of family tickets for this wonderful, family-run attraction based on the private collection of Grenville and Anita Allen built up over 28 years. Set in three acres of beautiful Cornish countryside and located in the picturesque hamlet of Treesmill, just off the A390 on the St Blazey to Lostwithiel road, Wingz has approximately 250 birds and animals from all over the world, including wallabies, snowy owls, finches, macaws and the sanctuary’s most famous resident, Houdini the meerkat.
For your chance to win, simply answer the question below and return the entry form. A winner will be picked each week from 23rd July for five weeks so send in your entry early and you could have up to five chances to win! Send completed entry form to: Love Summer competition, Wingz Bird & Animal Sanctuary, Treesmill, Par PL24 2TX
Question: What is the name of the sanctuary’s most famous resident?
Title: ...... Intial: ....... Surname: ........................................................................................................................... Address: .................................................................................................................................................................. .................................................................................................................................................................................. Postcode: ................. Telephone: ......................................................................................................................... Year of Birth: ................. Male:
Female:
Email: ......................................................................................
By responding, you agree that Wingz Bird & Animal Sanctuary may contact you by post, email, SMS and telephone. Terms & conditions: The first entry selected at random on each of the five draw dates will win a family ticket for up to two adults and three children, valid for one visit before 31/10/12. Closing date for the first draw is 20/07/12. Closing date for the final draw is 17/08/12. This competition is not open to employees of Cornwall and Devon Media. Photocopies are not accepted. You must be 18 years of over to enter.
wingz love summer full page.indd2 1 love_summer_12_pg94-95.indd
5/25/2012 10:10:11 4:37:32 AM PM 5/30/2012
TAKE CARE
Stay Safe
I
t’s important to remember Cornwall is a peninsula surrounded by the sea. Some beaches can disappear completely at high tide, so check tide times before venturing into the unknown. Tide table booklets are available from local newsagents or go on-line at www.easytide.ukho.gov.uk. The main beaches in Cornwall are patrolled by RNLI lifeguards. Designated bathing areas are marked by red and yellow flags.
A red flag means the sea conditions are dangerous. Do not enter the water if a red flag is flying.
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EMERGENCY NUMBERS Cornwall’s sub-tropical climate means we can enjoy many long hours of glorious sunshine in the summer. But this happy fact has a flip side. Sunbathing for long hours can lead to over-exposure, sunburn and even, on the odd occasion, heat stroke. Children and especially babies are even more at risk. Make sure you cover up with a sun hat and sun screen. Sun glasses will also protect eyes from the glare off the sand. With all that sun, wind and saltwater make sure you don’t dehydrate. Take a drink with you. (A bottle of water or flask of hot tea are ideal to slake a beachside thirst.) If you want to drink alcohol, do so in moderation. Excessive drinking and the sea don’t mix.
Ambulance, Fire Brigade, Police and Coastguard NHS Direct
999
0845 46 47
Hospitals Royal Cornwall Hospital Treliske Truro TR1 3LJ Tel: 01872 250000 St Michael’s Hospital Trelissick Road Hayle TR27 4JA Tel: 01736 753234 West Cornwall Hospital St Clare Street Penzance TR18 2PF Tel: 01736 874000
The summer ends and we wonder where we are.
5/31/2012 5:40:54 PM
flights from Newquay
Winter Routes Summer Routes
www.newquaycornwallairport.com
Charters GLASGOW EDINBURGH
MANCHESTER
EAST MIDLANDS
LONDON GATWICK
DÜSSELDORF
NEWQUAY Germany ISLES OF SCILLY to DUBROVNIK to LAKE GARDA
to MADEIRA
www.bmibaby.com
www.ios-travel.co.uk
A5 Route Map 1 love_summer_12_ibc.indd 1
www.flybe.com
www.lufthansa.com
www.atlanticholidays.net
www.newmarketholidays.co.uk 26/03/2012 5/28/2012 3:53:1508:44 PM
Spectacular & stylish self catering,
offering memorable holidays in the superb surroundings of
St Ives, Cornwall.
carbisbayholidays.co.uk/ls 08000 122241
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5/28/2012 2:44:38 PM