New Flavors Infused into The Ancient City
S
aint Augustine, the ancient city, is the longest continually inhabited European founded city in the United States. And one of the most exciting food destinations in the south. Before we discuss the new, we must pay homage to the culinary history that has shaped this special and unique city. The cuisine in this part of Florida has been influenced by the Spanish, Minorcans, Greeks, Italians and Africans. Through the centuries, the shifts in cultural cuisine have impacted all that we see today on the menus of St. Augustine. One just needs to see the importance of the datil pepper and how it still influences the modern era of flavors. Today, our once small and historic city is making a stance to be home of one of the most progressive culinary scenes in the south. As foodies gather around tables, laughing, celebrating life and the exploration for new flavors, we are witnessing classically trained chefs bringing these to our world. Chef Kevin Boose, of The Press and Simone’s Wood-Fired Craft Kitchen, is making a name for himself as well as impacting the local food world. A classically trained chef and Culinary Institute of America grad, is using large wood fired ovens imported from Italy to infuse special nuances to his dishes at Simone’s. Besides making exceptional pizza, he puts his spin on classic dishes such as his Cast Iron Salmon Cassoulet or the tender meatballs touched with a wisp of smoke from the oven. All pizza dough, breads and pasta are made in house daily.
A real interesting flavor that is now popping up on menus in St. Augustine is harissa. This Tunisian hot chili paste is deep with flavors and complexity from all the spices and herbs. To experience an exceptional use of this ingredient one has to visit the Sainte-George restaurant for their harrissa roasted vegetable platter. Add a protein to it and let the heat, dynamic contrast, subtle smoke and herbs take you on an imaginary trip to the Mediterranean. We have also seen the introduction of cuisines from South America. Chefs with Venezuelan, Colombian, Argentinian and Peruvian training are introducing some serious flavors. We are seeing the bold flavors of the aji amarillo pepper, the creamy Huancaina sauce, picada Colombiana, chuleta valluna (pork Milanese) and an amazing variety of arepas and empanadas. Closer to home here in the south, who can resist a wellconceived version of Chicken & Waffles for brunch. Amici’s restaurant combines classic, European and an historical touch to their dish. The delivery vessel of choice is a well thought out pearl sugar waffle. Very true to the one you would find on a Belgian street corner. Crunchy warm exterior, soft and fluffy center. The southern style fried chicken is topped with datil candied pancetta and a smoked tomato aoli. Drizzle on the datil infused Whistle Pig maple syrup and you have something very special. To not mention the eggplant rollatini, with its creamy ricotta, perfectly cooked eggplant and rich sauce (or gravy depending on your birthplace) would be a sin. It’s a dish that would make nonna even cry. One of the most interesting flavor adventures in St. Augustine is the seacuterie platter. A seacuterie is an epicurean twist on a charcuterie. It’s comprised of a variety of cured and smoked seafood served with various accoutrements. It checks all the boxes. Smoke, savory, saltiness and sour.
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