9 minute read
Featured Destination: Zona Cafetera, Colombia
Low Season: May-July, October-November
By: Julia Hammond
Prepare to wrinkle your nose: staying on a coffee hacienda in Colombia’s Zona Cafetera is a multi-sensory experience. During the harvest in October and November, a sour vinegary smell pervades the air as the hard shells of freshly-picked coffee cherries break down as they are piled high and left to ferment. Far nicer on the nostrils is the aroma of roasted beans which wafts from farmhouses and covered verandas, intensified by the damp air that persists throughout the rainy season.
As you sip the rich, smooth liquid it slips sweetly over your tongue, awakening your taste buds. Forget the fancy syrups and barista art of city cafés: out here in the countryside the coffee is pure and unadulterated, free of the frothed milk and sugar that mask its natural flavour. Mug in hand, pick your way along narrow paths separating the densely-planted coffee bushes, skirting small puddles as the cool air brushes against your cheeks. Watch as the calloused, mud-caked fingers of teams of pickers expertly seek out only the crimson cherries, leaving those that aren’t quite ripe enough.
Back in the farmyard, listen to the tumble of the yellowy-green beans being washed and graded along outdoor chutes and the scrape of the metal rake on the hard floors of greenhouses as they’re spread out to dry. Loading the heavy hessian sacks onto the flat-bed truck is the hardest job of all. A soundtrack of grunts and gasps coupled with frequent pauses to wipe sweaty brows is a telltale sign that this is tough, physical work.
A Region Realising its Tourism Potential
Until relatively recently, the best beans from Colombia’s Arabica coffee crop were exported abroad, but things are changing. In cities such as Bogotá and Medellin, artisan roasteries and cafés have sprung up in upscale neighbourhoods, catering to a mixed clientele of locals and tourists. Visitors are increasingly venturing into the countryside that nestles between the two, known as the Zona Cafetera. They’re keen to explore a bucolic region which in 2011 was formally recognised as the Coffee Cultural Landscape of Colombia by UNESCO.
The Zona Cafetera is largely rural, but a number of hubs act as jumping off points for those heading for the haciendas tucked away in verdant valleys. To cut down on overland travel, it’s possible to fly to Armenia or Pereira in the south of the region, though some of the farms in the north are little more than a morning’s drive from Medellin. Quaint Salento, Jardin and Filandia make convenient bases for those who prefer to stay in town.
This is a part of Colombia that embraces low season travellers. It welcomes those who brave a trip in October and November when rain typically falls for at least half the month and low cloud shrouds the mountains, tucking them out of sight for days on end. Temperatures, though, hold up; it’s not unusual for thermometers to record daytime highs of 25°C, while nights stay well above freezing. Yet though sun seekers stay away, the area is at its most lush and green; this is the time of year you’ll find peace and quiet without the need to stray too far off the beaten track.
Charming Towns Painted in Vibrant Shades
Most Zona Cafetera tourists find themselves in Salento at some point. In its colonial core, buildings are painted in an array of bold colours; shades of Barbie pink, dandelion yellow, turquoise blue and emerald green adorn every inch of its doors and windows, forming a striking contrast against whitewashed walls. A steady stream of tourists trudges up a steep flight of steps at the end of the main street but the effort is worth it for the panoramic views over the town and the mountains beyond. Down below, in the main square, farmers in wide-brimmed hats take advantage of dry spells to chew the fat. Knives holstered in polished leather sleeves, they perch on the back of pick-up trucks to chat or drink beer at the convivial tables of the town’s pavement cafés. Street dogs slink around nearby. They sniff for scraps and then wriggle on their backs in the dirt.
Ride in a Willys Jeep
A jaunt in a Willys jeep is almost a rite of passage in these parts. These rustic vehicles found their way here at the end of World War Two, when they were offloaded in significant numbers by the US military. Capable of carrying heavy loads though manoeuvrable on dirt tracks, they were ideally suited to the bumpy mountain roads of the Zona Cafetera.
Today, some are workhorses, piled high with sacks of coffee beans, while others shuttle back and forth from the plaza to tourist spots fully laden with people. During the rainy season, drivers hurriedly unfurl covers to shield these open-tipped vehicles during downpours, though fat drops puddle on bench seats and collect in metal footwells.
A UNESCO-Worthy Landscape
Camera-toting outsiders flock to the Zona Cafetera’s Valle de Cocora, a remarkably beautiful part of the Los Nevados National Natural Park. Most hike along a scenic loop trail which leads first to stands of lanky wax palms. Then, it climbs steadily into the cloud forest, forcing walkers to tramp over rickety suspension bridges above streams as they continue to the summit. In wet weather, the sticky mud cakes boots and trouser hems but when the mist lifts, the views across the valley from these higher elevations are breathtaking. Adventurous travellers can venture further into the park to get a close-up look at its snow-capped volcanoes, while the area’s many hot springs and geothermal baths are the ideal place to rest weary bones.
TOP EXPERIENCES
Stay on a Coffee Farm
Many coffee haciendas offer a programme of activities, but stay at more than one as they vary considerably. The no-frills La Gaviota near Chinchiná is a working farm where you’re invited to help out with the harvest. Alternatively, watch hummingbirds sip nectar from the balcony hammock of the century-old farmhouse at stylish Hacienda Venecia near Manizales.
Hiking Through the Valle de Cocora
The wax palms you find in the Valle de Cocora are the tallest palms in the world and Colombia’s national tree. Rising on spindly trunks from rippled, grassy slopes, they form the backdrop to one of the region’s most beautiful hikes. In low season the trees become photogenic silhouettes against a backdrop of low cloud, so dress accordingly if you want to stay dry.
Ride in a Willys Jeep
The Willys jeep is a Colombian icon and you’ll see them throughout the coffee-growing region. From Salento’s main square, they depart regularly for Cocora and also the nearby town of Filandia. Try to catch the Yipao Parade which takes place in Armenia in early October, when fully-loaded jeeps perform crazy stunts to the delight of an enthusiastic crowd.
FOOD AND DRINK
Café Jesus Martin, Salento
This chic café close to Salento’s lively central plaza is a must for morning coffee or afternoon cake. Step in off the steep street and let its highly-trained baristas craft you a speciality coffee using Arabica beans roasted in-house. On your way out, buy a bag at the battered wooden counter to grind at home.
Helena Adentro, Filandia
Filandia’s trendiest restaurant is as far removed as you get from bland and boring. Colourful, eclectic décor sets the vibe and the view out over the countryside from the terrace is a real treat. Even so, it’s the food you’ll remember: the creative kitchen team transform fresh produce sourced from nearby farmers into inventive dishes firmly rooted in the local area.
Bernabé Café & Bistro, Salento
This long-established family-owned restaurant occupies a prime spot on Salento’s lively main street. During low season it’s easier to get a table in its pretty plant-filled courtyard. If you’ve been inspired to learn more about the food they prepare, Bernabé’s owners also offer cooking lessons.
INSIDER TIPS
• Seek out a popular tejo hall – such as Cancha de Tejo Los Amigos in downtown Salento – and participate in this loud, crazy game. Players throw weighted discs (tejos) and try to hit a central metal ring (a bocín), around which are secondary targets (mecha) packed with gunpowder. Much beer is consumed, but it’s a lot of fun and safer than it sounds.
• The area is volcanic so there are plenty of hot springs and geothermal baths. Try the Termales El Otoño near the city of Manizales or further south, the San Vicente Thermal Reserve on the outskirts of Santa Rosa de Cabal. Some places offer overnight accommodation; their baths tend to be quieter early in the morning or during the week.
• The Zona Cafetera is more or less equidistant from the Colombian capital Bogotá and its second largest city, Medellin. Both have plenty of attractions that will appeal to international tourists so consider an “open jaw” flight, arriving at one and departing from the other to bookend your time in the coffeegrowing areas.
GOOD TO KNOW
• Low season is also rainy season and rural roads can occasionally be impacted by landslides. If it’s been especially wet in the run up to your trip, it’s vital to stay abreast of weather conditions and heed local advice. You can easily switch up your longdistance bus for a domestic flight to either Armenia or Pereira if necessary.
• The dish Bandeja Paisa is a hearty staple that you’ll find at restaurants throughout the Zona Cafetera. This platter comprises rice, beans, fried pork, ground beef, chorizo, plantains, fried egg, avocado and arepas (cakes made from ground corn). Rich in protein, carbohydrates and fat, it’s exceptionally filling – be sure to start with an empty stomach.
• If you’re a Disney fan, this part of Colombia will already feel familiar. Its colourful balconied architecture and verdant valleys replete with wax palms were the charming inspiration for the aptly-named movie Encanto.
