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VOL. 46, NO. 10
MARCH 2019
When did you start fishing?
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By Len Stagoski he whip-poor-wills were determined to serenade us with their endless Nocturnal Song. When one bird would stop, another would take up the cry… whip-er-will, whip-erwill, whip-er-will. The birds were nestled in trees lined up on one side of our gravel bank, while the Current River flowed on the other side. My fishing buddies from the St. Louis Chapter of the Missouri Smallmouth Alliance were in no hurry to leave our campfire as we circled
it in our camp chairs, for we anticipated that with the whip-poor-will’s serenade, it would be a challenge to get a good nights’ sleep. Hushed talk around the campfire centered around the subject we dearly loved… fishing. I remember an evening when someone raised the question, “When did you start fishing?” I don’t remember exactly my response that evening, but now I do fondly remember exactly when, as a maturing adult, I “got hooked.” Sure, as a kid I fished with my dad, but they Please see FISH, 18
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servation Goose Season each year toward the end of winter. As the migratory birds travel back north, they have to pass over Missouri and usually its from mid-February through mid-March. Magical moments await those that are willing to brave the weather and mud. The excitement of that moment as thousands of big birds put the brakes on and tornado down out of the sky on your head — with a
Take a hike off the beaten path O
ne of the best ways to enjoy the scenic and natural beauty of the Ozarks is by hiking or taking a leisurely walk through the mixed terrain enjoying the sights, sounds and smells of the forests, glades, meadows and prairie. There are ample opportunities for visitors to the "best recreational lake" in the nation to head off the beaten path and discover the wonders of nature. There is perhaps no better place to hike at the Lake of the Ozarks than at its two state parks. In total, the parks have a combined 26 different trails covering over 57 miles.! Each park showcases the area's natural history and beauty, and each has its own claim to fame. Ha Ha Tonka State Park!was voted the fourthbest state park in the country by readers of USA Today and has one of the most photographed fea-
Magical moments await goose hunters
By Richard Whiteside ow I lived so many years and never got into goose hunting I will never know. I can give the credit to my newfound love to one of my sons. Since that first day of goose hunting, I was hooked.! If you live in Missouri then odds are good that you live by some good goose hunting. MDC offers a season called Con-
www.riverhillstraveler.com
Please see HIKE, 19
loaded shotgun in hand — is too much to describe. Make plans now to go goose hunting in Missouri and take a friend, you won’t regret it. (Richard Whiteside can be reached at rlwhiteside72@gmail. com.)
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Be sure to visit this cafe when driving thru Union
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ne of my favorite fictional characters is Ron Swanson in the NBC hit “Parks and Recreation.” One of his many quotable moments is when he says to his friend Leslie, “There has never been a sadness not cured by breakfast food.” Mr. Swanson, I have to agree. Perhaps that is why I absolutely love a little place located just over a mile from my house. It can provide me an order of biscuits and gravy for breakfast, lunch, or dinner! This gem is the White Rose Café. White Rose Café is a downtown Union landmark. It was originally a single-pump gas staMichelle Turner tion serving White ———— Rose gasoline. Its location on what is now Main Street, but what was once Highway 50, made it an ideal spot to fill up. While visitors can no longer fill up on White Rose gasoline, they can fill up on excellent home-cooked meals for an affordable price. With seating for a little over 100 people, this small café has a big reputation! Since moving to Franklin County a few years ago, Susan Weaver has frequented the White Rose for meals with her family. From the chicken fried steak to the meatloaf, she’s been able to find something to enjoy each time she visits. “Their food is delicious,” Weaver said. “Their servings are generous and the employees are always polite and friendly.” Tyann Marcink has lived in Franklin County her whole life and has chosen Union as the place to live and raise her
kids. She frequents White Rose often with her sons. “White Rose is simply fun to experience. It’s a step back in time with the tabletop jukeboxes and phone booth on the back wall,” Marcink shared. “The homestyle menu is full of comfort food as well, making it a favorite birthday breakfast spot for my sons.” Beyond the food and atmosphere, White Rose Café pays tribute to its roots as a gas station by hosting an an-
nual car show right on Main Street in Union. The first Sunday in June is when you can find a wide range of makes and models of beautifully restored historic cars on display.
White Rose Café is located at 208 E. Main St. in Union, Mo. You can reach them at (636) 584-0500. They open daily at 5 a.m. except on Sundays when they open at 7 a.m. White Rose Café also posts their specials on their Facebook page, which is easily found if you use Facebook. From the food to the nostalgia, White Rose Café has a little bit to offer anyone. The next time you plan a trip to or through Union, jump off the beaten path and visit our downtown area to enjoy White Rose Café. Tell them Michelle with the River Hills Traveler sent you. (Michelle Turner lives in Union, Mo.)
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Watch your surroundings as you travel Missouri
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n the state of Missouri you can find several ponds, lakes, creeks, rivers and springs. Some of these branch off from each other or merge together. The ponds and lakes are “still” waters that are contained into one area while the rest are “free-flowing” waterbodies. Each water body is unique in itself. I found one of these in Washington County while driving by. It is called Courtois Creek. It is a “free-flowing” waterbody that ends up branching off into other creeks Dana or forks. This creek Sturgeon is 38.6 miles long. It ———— shares its name with Eleven the nearby town of Point River Courtois. The creek was “doubtless named for some French settler, but his identity has not been ascertained,” according to the Place Names File at the University of Missouri. Courtois is a small community located in Washington County off of Highway C. Courtois Creek starts in northern Iron County just north of Missouri Highway 32 about four miles east of Bixby. This
A sign by Highway 8 at the entrance to Forest Service Road 2878. Courtois Cemetery and Courtois Baptist Church are down this road.
creek enters the southwest corner of Washington County just south of Berryman and passing under Highway 8. Then it flows northwest into Crawford County roughly paralleling the course of the Huzzah Creek to its west. Then, it flows into the Huzzah Creek just before it connects with the Meramec River near the Highway E bridge east of Scotia. This creek is popular year-round for canoeing, kayaking and rafting. It has an abundant supply of fish, turtles and waterfowl. The St. Louis Riverfront Times cited the creek as the best local float trip in 2007. As you find yourself hiking, fishing, hunting, or driving, make sure you look around at your surroundings. If you don’t, you may miss another beautiful feature that Missouri offers all of us! (Dana Sturgeon lives in southern Missouri. She can be reached at mo_dana@hotmail.com.)
AROUND the WORLD with the River Hills Traveler
(Above) Karlene Hoch, 12, on the way to tour Wind Cave National Park in South Dakota with her mother last year. (Right) Aaron Williams, Jace Renfro, Landon Adams, and Jonah Link getting ready to enjoy a hearty lunch at Pasghetti’s in Branson during a recent trip with their families. ———
If you're going on a trip or vacation, please take the River Hills Traveler with you and have someone photograph you and the magazine in front of a landmark or somewhere pretty interesting. Then email the picture & info to us at jimmy@riverhillstraveler.com and we will publish it an upcoming issue. You can also text your photos & info to (417) 451-3798 or send them to us via our Facebook page.
Thank you very much & we look forward to seeing your family’s adventures!
Courtois Creek at an access off of Highway 8, down Forest Service Road 2878.
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Rymers restroom project will shift to Powder Mill
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zark National Scenic Riverways (ONSR) will soon replace several deteriorating or flood-damaged restroom facilities at various locations in the park.! New vault toilets will be installed at Rocky Falls, Shawnee Creek Campground, and Buck Hollow Access as scheduled.!The installation of a new vault restroom facility previously planned for the Rymers Access has been canceled due to the inability to get heavy equipment transported to the site. Jimmy Sexton That vault toilet ———— will be shifted to the Journey On Powder Mill Campground, to replace the waterborne (flush) restroom that is no longer operational following the April 2017 flood.! There are no plans to restore electricity to Powder Mill because it is at the end of an electrical service line and all other buildings requiring electricity at Powder Mill were destroyed in the flood. Without electricity, there is no way to operate the water system necessary for a flush restroom.!! Installation of the vault toilet at Powder Mill will provide a usable restroom for river users and campers in the future, when the river access and camp-
ground are repaired and reopened. The National Park Service will continue to work with the Federal Highway Administration to accomplish major repairs to both the campground road and river access road.! !! A suitable replacement option for the deteriorating restroom at Rymers will be considered in the future. That restroom was not damaged in the 2017 flood, but needs to be replaced due to its age and condition.! New waterborne (flush) restrooms will still be installed in the 200 Loop of the Big Spring Campground and the 400 Loop of the Alley Spring Campground as previously announced. Those installations are scheduled to occur in late March and take about one week to complete. The previous restrooms in those locations were destroyed during the 2017 flood. Landscaping and construction of sidewalks will occur after facility installation, and is expected to be finished prior to April 15.!! The existing outdated vault toilets at Buck Hollow and Rocky Falls are in very poor condition and were already a high priority to be replaced prior to the 2017 flood. Demolition has begun on those buildings and on the existing restroom at Powder Mill. There will be no restrooms available at those locations until the new facilities are installed. Installation for the new vault toilets is expected to occur in early March. The new vault toilet at
Shawnee Creek Campground will also be installed at that time. Currently, there is no restroom at Shawnee Creek because the previous restroom was destroyed in the 2017 flood.!! The new restroom facilities are all constructed of cast concrete and designed for use in flood zones.! ——— Visitors to Battle of Pilot Knob State Historic Site can now experience a rotating exhibit!of artifacts relating to the site. Many of these original artifacts have never been displayed until now. Upcoming displays: • March-April — “Why this Valley?” depicts how natural resources influenced settlers to stay and make a home in the valley. • May-June — “Dropped and Found” displays a variety of items that were dropped during the heat of!battle and then found later. • July-August — “Guess what this is” gives visitors a chance to view several unique items!pertaining to the battle and!the history of the valley. They can then venture a guess as to what!they are and what the items were!used for. • September-October — “Before the Fort” highlights Native American life in the valley before!European settlement. • November-December — “Remembering the Past” features battle partici-
there are a LOT of things going on. One of my personal favorite projects is the Missouri Community Legacies program. We are being asked to document our local traditions, our meaningful places, our significant institutions here in Newton and McDonald counties and submit them via the Missouri2021 website. This is to create a current snapshot of the part of the state we call home, and develop a future resource for researchers. Go to missouri2021.org to download the Missouri Community Legacies field kit and for more information. A fun and easy one is the My Missouri 2021 Photograph project. Just submit photos taken in 2018 or 2019 of things or scenes in your county that really captures its essence and spirit. The photos will be displayed on the Missouri2021 website, as a permanent visual record of Missouri at its bicentennial of statehood, and 200 will be selected for a traveling exhibit across the state in 2020-2021. Go to missouri2021.org for rules and further details. A project that I am personally interested in is the online Missouri Encyclopedia. Local writers are being asked to submit articles on people, places, and events in OUR area that shaped our communities, our counties, and our region. You can also simply suggest topics for articles. Go to missouriencyclopedia.org for more information, including guidelines. Another fun project is the Missouri Bicentennial Quilt. All 114 counties of Missouri are being asked to submit a quilt block that represents their particular county. All of the quilt blocks will then be assembled into a single Mis-
souri Bicentennial Quilt that will travel around the state. My understanding is that there can be multiple submissions from individuals and groups within the same county, but only one block will be selected for the quilt by a panel of judges. However, the quilt blocks must be submitted by Labor Day of THIS year (which is September 2). You can find rules and other information at missouri2021.org . There is a penny drive program to pay to help preserve original founding documents of the state. For more information on how to get your school or organization involved in that one, contact Claire Bruntrager, at the Missouri Humanities Council, at claire@mohumanities.org or call (314) 781-9660. Has your community’s public event or program been around for a long time and align with the Missouri2021 mission (see above)? You can get it officially endorsed by the Missouri2021 bicentennial commemoration to help promote it on the Missouri2021 website and social media platforms. Apply at missouri2021.org. There are also school lesson plans, traveling exhibits, conferences, programs, and lots more going on to celebrate Missouri’s 200 years of statehood. You can get more information on all of this and more at missouri2021.org. As I told someone after last week’s meeting, and as I said at the top of today’s column, this could be really good – if it gets cooperation and involvement from Missouri’s citizens. That’s you and I. (Wes Franklin!can be reached by email at cato.uticensis46@gmail.com, or by USPS mail at 12161 Norway Road, Neosho, MO 64850.)
Missouri Bicentennial celebration needs you
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n 2021 Missouri will enter its third century of statehood. Maybe we should take the time to ask why do we call Missouri home? What will keep our State vibrant for the next 200 years? Last week I had the opportunity to attend a Missouri Bicentennial informational meeting at the Neosho-Newton County Library. Michael Sweeney, coordinator of the Missouri Bicentennial celebration for the State Historical Society of Missouri, talked about the many different opportunities for citizen and community involvement in the Wes Franklin bicentennial. ———— I do hope we MisNative Ozarker sourians give the planners our full cooperation because this could be something really good. The mission of Missouri2021, the brand name of the bicentennial commemoration, is “to promote a better understanding of Missouri and its regions, communities, and people, both past and present.” To that end, “the Missouri Bicentennial provides opportunities for citizens to celebrate, explore, and share perspectives on the state’s rich history and culture.” Organized by a coalition of statewide nonprofit organizations, as well as a special commission created by the governor, Missouri2021 is being implemented with a heavy focus on pulling our different regions together to work toward understanding our entire state better. So what can we do? Well, like I said,
pant reunions and picnics!which kept the memory of the battle alive. This exhibit also shows the development of!the museum and the prior reenactments. The site will have an event passport card for visitors to get signed by staff at each of the exhibits. The first five people to turn in their completed passport form will receive a VIP pass to the September 2020 reenactment. The pass will include VIP seating and parking at the event as well as other incentives.!! Battle of Pilot Knob State Historic site is located in southeast Missouri at 118 E. Maple St., Pilot Knob. For more information about the event, call the site at (573) 546-3454. ——— As spring approaches and Missourians, as well as visitors to our beautiful state, plan their vacations and travels we’re looking to do some stories on unique, out-of-the way places that don’t get much publicity. Even if it’s just for a day trip. If you know of something like that in your area, please let me know by phone, email or text! (Jimmy Sexton is owner and publisher of the River Hills Traveler. He can be reached by phone or text at (417) 451-3798, or jimmy@riverhillstraveler.com.)
On the Cover Len Stagoski really enjoys fishing on the Eleven Point River. See Len’s story on page 1 of this issue when he asks: “When did you start fishing?”
River Hills Traveler 212 E. Main St., Neosho, MO 64850 Phone: (417) 451-3798 Fax: (417) 451-5188
www.riverhillstraveler.com Email: jimmy@riverhillstraveler. com Owner & Publisher Jimmy Sexton Managing Editor Madeleine Link Circulation Manager Rhonda Sexton Staff Writers Wes Franklin • Mike Roux Bill Wakefield • Bill Oder Judy Smith • Michelle Turner Dana Sturgeon • Bill Hoagland Richard Whiteside • Ronnie Moore Advertising Jimmy Sexton & Madeleine Link
River Hills Traveler, established in 1973, is published monthly by Sexton Media Group and Traveler Publishing Company. Postmaster: Send change of address notices to: River Hills Traveler, 212 E. Main St., Neosho, MO 64850. Subscription prices: $22 per year; 2 years, $40. Back issues available up to one year from publication, $5 plus sales tax & shipping. COPYRIGHT © 2019 No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written permission of the publisher of the River Hills Traveler or his duly appointed agent. The publisher reserves the right to reject any advertising or editorial submission for any reason.
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Granddaughter, 10, nails a buck in late fall
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To the Editor, t dusk on Wednesday, Nov. 27, 2018, one of the last days of the youth deer hunting season in Missouri, my 10-year-old granddaughter, Madeline Carter of Affton, Mo., bagged an 8-point buck! She told me she was with her dad, Mike Carter, in a tree stand waiting for any movement to come from any direction. When Mike whispered that a doe was right behind them, she said she got up slowly and turned to shoot, but in her heart she didn’t feel that it was the one, but she didn’t want to miss the opportunity, so she waited to take the right
shot... but the doe was startled and took off! Madeline cried, believing she wouldn’t get another chance. And then she spied a large buck coming out of the woods right toward them. She prepared and shot precisely behind the shoulder with a .273 Savage and down he went. She said it felt like she won 1st Prize
for the biggest game she ever played, but her happiest moment came with knowing she had made her dad so very proud of her! She thanked our Lord for her bounty and we’re all still sharing it. Judy Cissell via email
VINTAGE OZARKS
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Pinebrook Inn — John T. Woodruff’s resort fiasco
he copy on the card reads “The Pinebrook Inn, 50 Rooms Private Baths. Siloam Springs, Missouri.” We may have come down too hard on John Woodruff, Springfield’s fabled developer. He relentlessly promoted Springfield, was instrumental in the creation of Route 66, and was honorable and honest in his business dealings. But he was wrong in his negative literary judgment of Vance Randolph and other Ozarks local-color-school writers. He clashed with Randolph, who he thought promoted a backward or hillbilly image of the Ozarks. In our book James Fork of the White, we’ve got a panoramic photo of the Pinebrook Inn from the 1930s and a contemporary photograph of the site in ruins. It burnt to the ground a few years ago. Our write-up (page 144) encapsulates his resort aspirations: “For all his antipathy for Ozarks rusticity, John T. Woodruff had a taste for country life. In 1922, he bought an unfinished health resort at Siloam Springs,
5 years ago • Anticipation for the opening day of trout season has been growing both on the part of Missouri’s anglers and parks and conservation department personnel for some time. It’s an annual thing that both parties appear to have mastered quite well. Nonetheless, fishermen grow restless over the winter months, having been kept inside more than they like by the forces of nature. Park personnel wring their hands about all the winter maintenance and repairs they have tried to complete. The approach of trout season always seems to come a bit too soon, but somehow everything gets done and the trout parks open like clockwork, just as they have done for decades. (Bill Cooper) • No sooner than the official comment on the National Park Service’s Draft General Management Plan for the Ozark National Scenic Riverways came down to the wire for comments than Missouri officials began to weigh in publicly. On Feb. 7, Missouri Governor Jay Nixon made public a copy of his letter to Department of Interior Secretary Sally Jewell, indicating that he supported the park service’s Alternative B: “Among the alternatives presented, Alternative B provides the best course for continued and future enjoyment of this treasure, provide that you allow for flexibility to give entities and individuals an opportunity to demonstrate that the activities they propose do not pose a risk to the Riverways,” he said. (Jo Schaper) 10 years ago • In a long, rusty, metal chicken shed northeast of Potosi, a Canadian aeronautics engineer and crew build custom all-
Printed postcard, 1930s
Missouri, near the North Fork River, seventeen miles from West Plains. “Woodruff finished the impressive four-story Pine-
brook Inn, built a nine-hole golf course, constructed a dance pavilion and dug a swimming pool. Excavations to attempt to increase the flow of the place’s ten medicinal springs apparently had the reverse effect. “Few believed by this date that drinking mineralized spring water cured diseases anyhow. Nevertheless, the progressive businessman advertised that ‘Siloam Springs water is recommended by physicians and praised by thousands of people who have been benefited or cured by using it.’ “He would spend the rest of his life waiting for guests to find the money pit in the middle of an isolated patch of cut-over mixed pine and oak forest. “ (This feature is courtesy of Leland and Crystal Payton at Lens & Pen Press, publishers of all-color books on the Ozarks. Their next book, Lover’s Leap Legends, was inspired by their discovery that both the Osage and James rivers had Lover’s Leaps. Mark Twain’s satiric comments on those legends added motivation and they have found Lover’s Leaps across the country.)
REMEMBER WHEN
welded, aluminum-hulled fire and rescue boats that save lives on the Ohio River and fishing boats that provide safe, pleasurable transportation on Ozark lakes and rivers. The engineer-owner is Curtis S. Dzuba, who brought his computer-assisted manufacturing skills to Missouri nine years ago as a partner in Potosibased Scorpion Watercraft, Inc. Dzuba bought the company. (Emery Styron) • Although the March day dawned chilly and overcast, my spirits soared as I pulled into the just-mown field designated for a parking lot, in what seemed like the middle of nowhere. Today, adventurous kayakers would compete in Missouri Whitewater Championships, testing themselves against the power of the wild St. Francis River, with a goal of achieving bragging rights as Missouri’s top kayaker, as well as earning a wad of cash and a trophy. (Silvia Forbes) 20 years ago • A federal lawsuit has been filed against Scott Tire Co.’s owners, Junior Flowers and David Brawley, charging they continue to pollute Doe Run Creek in Reynolds County. Penalties of $25,000 per day, per defendant, per violation are sought by the Missouri Attorney General for violations of federal law, as well as $10,000 per day, per defendant, per violation, for violations of state clean water law.
The lawsuit also seeks recovery of attorney fees and court costs the state has spent on this case and asks the federal judge to retain jurisdiction of the case to be certain his ruling is carried out. (Bob Todd) • It was not exactly what I needed. The outboard started, but refused to run. Let it sit a moment, and it would start again, only to die after about 10 seconds. So much for my run up the North Fork River to check out walleye fishing spots. That was the reason for my drive to Lake Norfork, that and I just needed to get away and assure myself, deep down in my bones, that spring was on the way and I was still really alive. (Bob Todd)
30 years ago • In late February, the long-awaited Missouri Stream Team program was launched by the Missouri Conservation Federation. Now, civic groups can use the program to adopt a stream or segment of a stream for conservation. The “the adoption’’ will be followed by an inventory of the stream, then, possibly, action to help the stream. Action may entail anything from litter clean-up to helping a landowner with bank stabilization, to turning in a polluter, to lobbying for legislation to protect the stream, to creating fish habitat. The action will be dictated by what the group finds wen it inventories the stream. (Bob Todd) • I had always been a fair weather fisherman. When the howling breezes of fall began, my rods usually were placed in the closet to rest until the solid spring warm-ups. Then, I moved to the Ozarks. I took the job as superintendent of the James Foundation’s Maramec Spring Park. I
was stunned at the sight of hordes of trout fishermen flocking to the half-mile spring branch on March 1, regardless of the weather. Freezing temperatures and flying snow seemed to add fun to the fury. It didn’t take me long to join the crowds and enjoy the fanfare. (Bill Cooper) 40 years ago • It is the eve of the most terrible earthquakes to ever have struck the North American continent. On the Mississippi River downstream from New Madrid there is a Frenchman’s boat loaded with 30,000 pounds of lead from mines in southeast Missouri. It is Dec. 15. 1811, and the owner of the boat is still in St. Louis while an English naturalist, a trained observer, is in command of the boat. The Englishman is John Bradbury and he is en route to New Orleans to sell the lead for the Frenchman and then book passage for himself back to England. (Bob Todd) • Camping is probably the most popular outdoor recreation in America today. Everyone goes camping from Grandma and Grandpa, who drive their motor home to Florida for the winter, to Mom and Dad who take their tent and trailer to the lake each summer, to daughter and companion with packs and bedrolls hiking throughout the wilderness. Camping is a great way for the family, as a unit, to work and play together away from the pressures of ordinary life. Swimming, hiking, eating and sleeping together makes for family closeness that is more than physical. (Emma Comfort Dunn) (compiled by MyraGale Sexton)
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Make a checklist with these ‘official’ state items I enjoy making lists and also reading a list. They give me a sense of order. They are usually short and to the point and I like the feeling of accomplishment when I get to check an item off the list. The state of Missouri has adopted a long list of official items. As you travel throughout the state it might be interesting to find some of the various state official items on the list and check them off. This information may also be useful for any trivia contest. State Bird — The Native Bluebird Why not watch the official state bird from your own backyard. Install a couple of propersized nesting boxes, have fresh water and a supply of wax worms or meal worms for them to eat and maybe these delicate and pretty Bill Wakefield birds will find your ———— backyard. State Insect — The Honeybee The honey bee is one of the most important insects in Missouri as a pollinator and as a source of sweet-tasting honey. They can be attracted to your backyard by planting a selection of flowers. A list of flowers that attracts bees include Catmint, Calendula, Bee Balm, Sedum, Lavender, Borage, Foxglove, Crocus, Anise Hyssop and Heliotrope. Besides honey bees, these flowers also attract butterflies and hummingbirds.
Honeybee
State Rock — The Mozarkite The mozarkite rock can easily be found around Lincoln, Missouri. Mozarkite is a variety of chert nicknamed for Missouri and the Ozarks where it is found. It usually has some pink and polishes well. It is also the Missouri state gemstone. Look in ditches, road cuts and on boulders. Bring the typical tools like rock hammers and heavier hammers and picks (with safety glasses and gloves). State Mineral — The Galena Galena is dark gray in color and breaks into small cubes. Mining of galena has flourished in the JoplinGranby area of southwest Missouri and rich deposits have been located in such places as Crawford, Washington, Iron and Reynolds counties. State Tree — The Flowering Dogwood The flowering dogwood tree can be seen throughout Missouri. Charleston Missouri, holds the Dogwood-Azalea Festival annually on the 3rd weekend of April when “Charleston becomes a
blooming wonderland.” This would make a great weekend trip.
State Song — The “Missouri Waltz” There are many places where a person can hear the Missouri Waltz. A CD soundtrack from a movie called “Winter’s Bone” includes the Missouri Waltz along with other songs that are popular in the hills of the Ozarks performed by Missourian Marideth Sisco.
State Fossil — The Crinoid Crinoids are an ancient species that is hundreds of millions of years old. The sea lily, as it is commonly referred to, is a marine animal. This fossil can be found along the road cuts and creekbeds that dot the Columbia area and the Grindstone Nature Area. Other places to find fossils in the area include Rockhill Park and the quarry at the Cosmopolitan Recreation Area, the Pinnacles State Park and Three Creeks State Park.
The crinoid, Missouri’s state fossil.
them to leap into the water.
State Animal — The Mule Travel the back roads of Missouri and look in the pastures and barnyards of the farms that you drive by. You are sure to come across some mules lounging around the pasture.
State Grass — The Big Bluestem Big bluestem!was designated as Missouri’s state grass on June 11, 2007, as a result of efforts by the fourth grade class at Truman Elementary School in Rolla. Big bluestem is native to Missouri and occurs throughout the state, with the exception of a few southeasternmost counties. It is a major component of Missouri’s tall grass prairies where it impressed the first explorers by sometimes growing tall enough to hide a person on horseback. The name “bluestem” comes from the bluish-green color of the leaves and stems that turn an attractive reddishcopper color in autumn. State Aquatic Animal — The Paddlefish Why not try your luck to snag a paddlefish (spoonbill)? The state’s major paddlefish snagging waters include the Lake of the Ozarks, Truman Lake and Table Rock Lake. The paddlefish snagging season for these and most other waters in the state runs March 15 through April 30. Be sure to check rules and regulations issued by the Missouri Department of Conservation (www.mdc.mo.gov).
State Folk Dance — The Square Dance There are numerous square dance and round dance clubs throughout Missouri. To find a club near you go to www.Dance.SquareDanceMissouri.co m and take some lessons if you don’t know how to dance, or just watch and have a good time. State Musical Instrument — The Fiddle You can see and hear the fiddle being played at almost any bluegrass or country music performance. If you enjoy history, travel to Mansfield Missouri, and visit the Laura Ingalls Wilder Home and see, and maybe even hear, a staff member play the historic fiddle that Charles Ingalls played.
Fiddle
State Amphibian — The Bullfrog Hearing a bullfrog might be easier than seeing one. To find one there should be clean water with little or no current, and sufficient aquatic vegetation to offer them concealment. Consider looking late in the evening or after dark, since a bullfrog’s large eyes are reflective and are more easily spotted than their bodies. Travel the banks of the body of water you are searching quietly and slowly so the bullfrogs are not startled, causing
Paddlefish
State Dessert — The Ice Cream Cone As you travel throughout the Ozarks or any part of Missouri, stop at a local ice cream shop and enjoy a cool and refreshing ice cream cone and remember that this delicious treat was first introduced to the world at the 1904 World’s Fair that was held in St. Louis, Missouri. State Dinosaur — The Hypsibema Missouriense Some bones and teeth of the Hypsibema Missouriense, which is a duck-billed dinosaur, were discovered near Glen Allen, Missouri. The bones and teeth are now on display at the Smithsonian Museum in Washington, D.C. You can see a replica of this dinosaur at the Bollinger County Museum (.).
Missouri’s state dinosaur Hypsibema Missouriense
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the
State Fish — The Channel Catfish The best way to see a channel catfish is to visit one of the Missouri state parks or a Missouri Department of Conservation access area that has a lake, pond or river. Bait up a fishing pole with some prepared catfish bait, a glob of worms, even a piece of hot dog, throw the line out so it will rest on the bottom, then sit back and wait while you enjoy the Missouri outdoors. State Flower — The Hawthorn You can see and enjoy the Missouri state flower by planting a hawthorn tree in your yard. Each spring hawthorn trees produce the Missouri state flower. These pretty white blossoms are made up of five petals, bear greenishyellow stamens and appear in globelike clusters over the hawthorn tree.!Their numbers help to attract the pollinators needed to produce its valuable fruit.! In addition to its fruit, the tree on which the Missouri state flower grows is valued by wildlife for its ability to provide shelter.
State Game Bird — The Bobwhite Quail The!bobwhite quail has been declining in numbers due to the lack of good habitat, too many predators!and weather conditions. There are quail in the northern and west-central portions of the state that have good habitat. Look for large areas of diverse native grass cover intermixed with lots of low-growing woody cover and untilled crop fields and you are likely to find a covey of quail. State Grape — The Norton/Cynthiana This grape has been cultivated since the 1830s and is likely North America’s oldest grape variety still commercially grown. Norton/Cynthiana has long been prized by Missouri wine makers for its hardy growth and intense flavor characteristics, which produce lush, dry premium red wines of world-class quality and distinction. Stop by one of the many wineries and sample some Missouri wine that the Norton/Cynthiana grape produces. State Horse — The Missouri Fox Trotting Horse A good source of information on the Missouri state horse is the Missouri Fox Trotting Horse Breed Association (www.mfthba.com). This breed’s calm disposition, sound conformation and surefooted gait will provide riders of all ages a willing companion in any terrain.! In fact, the Missouri fox trotting horse has been referred to as “America’s Favorite Trail Horse.” You can enjoy a trail ride at Brushy Creek Lodge (www.brushycreeklodge.com) or purchase your own fox trotter at Valley Springs Fox Trotters (www.missourifoxtrotter.com). State Invertebrate — The Crayfish Whether you call them crawdads, crawfish or mudbugs, crayfish are one of the most lethal bass, catfish, and bigtrout baits you can put on a hook. They also happen to taste great steamed with a little Cajun seasoning. Both are terrific reasons to get out and
Please see STATE, 16
March 2019 • Page 7
RiverHillsTraveler.com
A modernized version of the Light Cahill dry fly
T
he classic Light Cahill dry fly has been around for a hundred years or more. In Art Flick’s book, The Streamside Guide to Naturals and their Imitations, he states, “It is possible that more fish have been taken on this than on any other pattern of dry fly.” And Mr. Flick says further, “It is probably one dry fly that all fishermen carry.” Ray Bergman, another famous fly fisherman and flytyer, also heaps praise on the Light Cahill by saying, “If it was necessary to confine my assortment of flies to only two or three, this Bill Oder would be one of ———— them.” So, it is plain to see the tremendous respect that is paid to this humble little fly by all serious fly fishermen and fisherwomen. From what I can ascertain, it apparently got its name from Mr. Dan Cahill, a trout fisherman who was given credit for stocking some of the famous trout streams found in the Catskills in New York. I have always had good luck with this fly even when there were no hatches taking place. It can be tied in sizes, 12, 14 or 16. I prefer the smaller sizes myself. At the risk of committing fly fishing heresy, I believe there is a better way to
tie this fly than the traditional Catskills style. But at the same time, I want to go on record as saying that I think that anything can be improved and one can always find a better way to do something, even if one is breaking with 100-year-old traditions that have been carved in granite. In the traditional Catskill style of tying dry flies, the fly is kept afloat by using extra stiff dry fly hackle from rooster capes. These roosters are raised and fed in a way to assure that their hackles are extra stiff and suitable for fly-tying. When these hackles are affixed to the fly, their purpose is to imitate the legs of an insect but you can see that if the fibers of the hackle are stiff, there is no natural movement to resemble a live insect and trying to fool the wily trout is what we are trying to do in the first place. So this is what I am suggesting. The first change in the design of this fly, that I see, is in the wing. In the traditional method, gold-colored wood duck fibers are used. In my method, I use CDC feathers for the wings that have been dyed a wood duck gold color. What are CDC feathers, you ask? The initials CDC stand for cul-de-ca-
nard which are the oiliest feathers on a duck’s back. This oil gives them a very water repellant quality which means that if you attach them to a hook and drop that hook into the water, it is going to float. These CDC feathers that can be used to tie the Light Cahill are available on the market. I found mine at Feather Craft in St. Louis (there is a website). They are called Oiler Puffs and are conveniently bagged up and have been dyed “Wood Duck” gold. They are also a perfect size for a size 14 or 16 hook. So now instead of the hackle supporting fly as in the old method, it is the wing of the fly that is supporting the fly. The second change I am suggesting is in the hackle. No longer is it necessary to use the stiff dry fly hackle to support the fly because now you have the CDC doing that job. You can use something that is called “soft hackle” from a hen’s neck. For the Light Cahill, I used a cream hen’s neck. The fibers on these feathers aren’t stiff at all but very flexible and supple, which allows them to move in the water in a natural way to more closely resemble a live insect which gets us back to what we are trying to do in the first place when we set down to tie a fly. When tied in this new way, the fly will float very well. If it is necessary to apply floatant after a few fish are caught, it is best to use something that is recommended for CDC feathers. There are several products on the market that are in powder form that will not mess up the fibers of the CDC. If you do use regular dry fly floatant, just apply it to the body of the fly only because it will spoil the CDC. I have placed a video on “YouTube” showing how to tie this fly, “Tying a Light Cahill with CDC by Bill Oder.” The wing is tied in first and then wrap thread in front and back of the wing to
make it stand upright. Then go to the rear of the hook and tie in a tail using fibers from a creamcolored feather. I used feathers from a rooster neck or any cream feather will suffice. The body is formed using cream-colored dubbing material and then the hackle is from a cream hen’s neck. I don’t think it’s necessary to wrap the hackle in front and in back of the wing as you do with a traditional dry fly. Just a few wraps in front of the wing is enough. This makes a very attractive looking fly and it works very well, also. It is cheaper to put together than the traditional method, also, because you’re not using any of the pricey dry fly capes. You will be pleasantly surprised to find that the CDC feathers for the wings and the hen’s neck for the hackle are inexpensive. In fact, the Oiler Puff CDC can be purchased in several different colors so it is possible for other classic dry flies to be changed into something better. There is no limit to what can be done. The gold “wood duck” CDC can be used to tie any dry fly that calls for wood duck fibers for the wing. If you’re a fly fisherman or fisherwoman, the Light Cahill is a very good fly to have in your vest and I propose that it might be good to have a couple tied with CDC along, too. Give it a try and good luck with your fishing! (Bill Oder can be reached at oderbill@yahoo.com.)
One of those trips where it’s all about ‘what I should’ve done’
M
ore people die of their own mistakes than ever because of accidents.” So stated a Louis L’Amour character in one of his many novels; quite some time back. I recalled these words this past week as I truly believed my chances of ending my journey early exceeded my arrival in Potosi mere weeks from now. This was only the third time during this trek I feared my mortality was at hand. It was, however, the strongest. My boat was parallel to threefoot waves; waves that were breaking over the side of my boat and depositing more water into a vessel now holding a good six Rick Mansfield inches and growing. ———— I had run out of gas several Reflections minutes before. Knowing I was from the Road low on fuel, I had been trying to hug the shallow side of the lake. This, of course, required changing sides as the bluffs changed relative position. It was during such a “cross-over” that the last fumes were consumed. The water was at 42 degrees; my fishfinder had been telling me so most of the day. The trolling motor had been on the fritz since earlier that morning, having wrapped up some metal while trolling and having become overheated. Debris in my jet-pump had been the first problem, and while cleaning the screen, water washing over the transom had already got me wet. I had my emergency device on and was prepared to send the SOS signal for which I carried it. Had al-
ready called a friend and stated I was in a bit of trouble and if I didn’t call back in thirty minutes where to start looking. I was paddling and trying to get the trolling motor to help. Each wave added a bit more water; and I soon had about eight inches on the floor. The trolling motor was working intermittently; I was getting closer to being out of the current. A wind-driven current that would pull me towards an insurmountable bluff. A current that even if mastered would most likely take 30-45 minutes to get me to shore. The first was perhaps doable; the latter probably not. I kept repeating, almost as a mantra, “Find wood, start a fire, change clothes.” If I made it to shore, I did have the necessary tools on me. Fire cord, a rope-like substance with a combustible core, I kept wrapped around my waist. Daily now for more than two months. Waterproof container of matches. A mylar “spaceblanket.” It was into that that I would quickly change; once the first driftwood was ablaze. This would be placed around me, until the fire was sufficient to preserve life. I had a plan. A plan that if I reached shore with a core temperature of at least 90 I thought I could still implement. A plan on which I did not have to rely; as the trolling motor cooled off and got me to shore — with a little help from paddling. And prayer. I take pride in usually being prepared. Plans. Contingencies. What I should have done is camped for the night when I realized I was low on fuel. Had a
heated trolling motor. What I should have done is had an extra container of gas in the boat; as my johnboat does not have a built-in reserve tank. What I should have done is get off the lower part of Bull Shoals Lake when the wind had raised three-foot whitecaps. Supper with friends that evening tasted great. The voice of my wife on the phone sounded wonderful. Life is good. (Rick Mansfield can be reached at emansfield2004@yahoo.com.)
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MISSOURI ENDANGERED SPECIES OF THE MONTH
Endangered hellbender
Characteristics What does it look like?
A hellbender’s head is broad and flat with small, lid-less eyes. The body has soft, pronounced folds of skin. The color varies from reddish brown to dull grayish-brown. The belly is uniforml dark tan or gray-brown and is lighter in color than the rest of the body. The tail is flattened and rudder-like.
O
By Francis Skalicky ne of the characteristics that draws floaters and anglers to streams in south-central Missouri is their beauty. However, the plight of Missouri’s hellbender indicates that, even in what seems to be a riverine paradise, all is not as pristine as it used to be. Hellbenders are unique-looking amphibians with a unique problem in Missouri – their habitat has changed to the extent that young hellbenders are having trouble reaching adulthood in the wild. It’s hoped partnering efforts among the Missouri Department of Conservation (MDC), the St. Louis Zoo, and other agencies will bolster the numbers of this large salamander that currently is endangered in Missouri and not doing very well in many of the other states it’s found in, either. Missouri is home to two subspecies of hellbender – the Ozark hellbender (Cryptobranchus alleganiensis bishopi) and the eastern hellbender (Cryptobranchus alleganiensis alleganiensis). In addition to Missouri, the eastern hellbender is found in a number of other states in the eastern U.S. while the Ozark hellbender’s range is limited to the Ozarks region of southern Missouri and northern Arkansas. Hellbenders are typically 11-20 inches in length and have heads that are broad and flat with small, lid-less eyes. The color varies from reddishbrown to a dull gray-brown; their bellies are dark-tan to gray-brown and are lighter than the rest of the body. One of their most noticeable traits are the soft, pronounced folds of skin along their sides, which help the creature with respiration. As Missouri became settled, people didn’t have much affection for these curious-looking creatures they found in area streams. Evidence of that can be found in the name “hellbender” which is thought to originate with early residents who said these salamanders were so unattractive that they “looked like they crawled out of hell and are bent on going back.” A couple of other nicknames – “snot otters” and “devil dogs” – don’t convey any more affection. It was also thought they inflicted poisonous bite, chased off game fish and smeared fishing lines with slime as a
E
ndangered species are specifically designated in the Wildlife Code of Missouri. Here’s the text from the code: (2) The exportation, transportation, or sale of any endangered species of plant or parts thereof, or the sale of or possession with intent to sell any product made in whole or in part from any parts of any endangered species of plant is prohibited. (3) For the purpose of this rule, endangered species of wildlife and plants shall include the following native species designated as endangered in
defense mechanism to drive the anglers away. None of those claims are true. What is true is that hellbenders are habitat specialists. They depend on a constant flow of clean water that provides a constant level of dissolved oxygen and a relatively stable temperature. They also prefer areas with an abundance of medium-size to larger underwater rocks that they can use for cover and nesting. If any of these elements get changed or taken away, it could have negative impacts on hellbenders. And that’s the problem, nearly all these key components of hellbender habitat have been altered over time. Construction of impoundments, sedimentation, nutrient and toxic run-off, disease, and collection have all impacted Missouri’s hellbender population. One specific impact these changes seem to have had on hellbender populations in Missouri streams was in recruitment of young age classes. In the late 1990s and early 2000s, little evidence of recruitment (young hellbenders reaching adulthood) was being found among animals surveyed, compared to historical surveys of the late 1970s and 1980s. The majority of hellbenders that were found were mature adults. In the hopes of reversing this trend, MDC has teamed with the St. Louis Zoo’s Ron Goellner Center for Hellbender Conservation. Hellbender eggs and adults were
collected from the wild and the world’s first captive-breeding of Ozark hellbenders occurred in autumn of 2011 at the St. Louis Zoo. Since that time, more than 6,500 hellbenders raised at the St. Louis Zoo and at an MDC hatchery have been released back into the wild. Data collected during this ongoing hellbender breeding program will not only buy further time to address problems that are occurring in streams in Missouri and other states, but it could also save the species from becoming extinct. Missourians might not be able to participate in hellbender captive breeding programs, but there are other steps they can take to preserve this unique creature. If a hellbender is caught while fishing and you cannot easily remove the hook, simply cut the line near the head and release it back into the stream. Chances are, the hook will rust in a relatively short time and the animal will survive. Also, hellbenders depend on large, flat rocks in streams so leave those rocks in place wherever they occur in streambeds. People can also join a local stream team to clean, care for, and monitor rivers in their area. More information about hellbenders and what people can do to protect them can be found at mdc.mo.gov. (Francis Skalicky works for the Missouri Department of Conservation and can be reached at 417-8956880.)
Cryptobranchus alleganiensis
Hellbenders are members of the family Cryptobranchidae, a group commonly referred to as the giant salamanders. This ancient group of amphibians has two surviving genera, the Andreias genus, which is found solely in Asia, and the Cryptobranchus genus which occurs in 15 states, including Missouri.
Two sub-species of hellbenders occur in Missouri; the Ozark hellbender (Cryptobranchus alleganiensis bishopi) and eastern hellbender (Cryptobranchus alleganiensis alleganiensis).
Where is it found?
Hellbenders make their homes under flat rocks in large, permanent streams and rivers. It is normally a solitary animal that likes to hide under rocks. Hellbenders are nocturnal, except during breeding season when they exhibit diurnal traits. (source: MDC)
WILDLIFE CODE OF MISSOURI Missouri: (A) Mammals: Gray bat, Ozark big-eared bat, Indiana bat, northern long-eared bat, black-tailed jackrabbit, spotted skunk. (B) Birds: Northern harrier, interior least tern, Swainson’s warbler, snowy egret, king rail, Bachman’s sparrow, peregrine falcon, American bittern, greater prairie-chicken. (C) Reptiles: Western chicken turtle, Blanding’s turtle, Illinois mud turtle, yellow mud turtle, Mississippi green water snake, massasauga rattlesnake. (D) Amphibians: eastern hell-
bender, Ozark hellbender. (E) Fishes: Lake sturgeon, pallid sturgeon, taillight shiner, Neosho madtom, spring cavefish, harlequin darter, goldstripe darter, cypress minnow, central mudminnow, crystal darter, swamp darter, Ozark cavefish, Niangua darter, Sabine shiner, mountain madtom, redfin darter, longnose darter, flathead chub, Topeka shiner, grotto sculpin. (F) Mussels: Curtis pearlymussel, Higgins’ eye, pink mucket, fat pocketbook, ebonyshell, elephant ear, winged mapleleaf, sheepnose, snuffbox,
scaleshell, spectaclecase, Neosho mucket, rabbitsfoot, salamander mussel, slippershell mussel. (G) Other Invertebrates: American burying beetle, Hine’s emerald dragonfly, Tumbling Creek cavesnail. (H) Plants: Small whorled pogonia, Mead’s milkweed, decurrent false aster, Missouri bladderpod, geocarpon, running buffalo clover, pondberry, eastern prairie fringed orchid, western prairie fringed orchid, Virginia sneezeweed. (source: MDC)
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HOM ME OF SUMMER FUN!!
1 800-333-8007 1-8 7 www.v ww .vacationbsrr..com
Locatted on the Upper Meramec River in Bourbon, Misssouri
CAMPING • CABINS • TRAIL T RIDES • ZIP LINE • FLOAATT TRRIPS
It all started with 1 cabin & some empty land 30 years ago By MATTIE LINK
B
mattie@riverhillstraveler.com _____________
lue Springs Ranch was founded by J.R. and Vicki Isom in 1988. They started with one cabin and some undeveloped land and now they have turned their dream into a reality 30 years later. Blue Springs Ranch (BSR), located in Bourbon, Mo., is a resort and campground that offers lodging, rustic cabins, electric/water/ sewer, electric/water, and electric and basic sites for camping. “We now have 30 cabins and over 200 campsites on that once-empty land,” said Vicki Isom. “Now, BSR has a very large extended summer family and each of our guests find their favorite spot to spend time at the resort.” Over the last several months the Isoms have built two new cabins, added 30 full hook-up sites, electric sites for tent and pop-up campers, and added a loyalty program for campers and floaters. “We also added a new playground just in time for Memorial Day last year,” said Vicki. “We also offer discounts for first responders, active military, and veterans.” Activities and opportunities at Blue Springs Ranch in-
clude camping, float trips on the scenic Meramec River, zip lining through the trees at upward of 40 mph, and onehour guided rides on quarter horses through the foothills. Blue Springs Ranch is located at 1246 Blue Springs Road in Bourbon, Mo. They can reached by email at bsr@vacationbsr.com and their website is www.vaca-
tionbsr.com. “We plan on having a great year if the rain stays away on the weekends,” said Vicki. “We want Blue Springs Ranch to be your home for summer fun whether it’s a weekend getaway, family vacation, reunion, group activity or company retreat.”
Critter of the Month: Dunlin
• Species: Dunlin. • Scientific name: Calidris alpina. • Nicknames: Red-backed sandpiper. • Claim to fame: Dunlins are one of several types of shorebirds that can be seen on Ozarks mudflat areas in fall and winter. This starling-sized bird spends its spring and summer months in its breeding and nesting range in the Arctic and sub-Arctic regions of North America. In fall and winter, it migrates to this region and other areas in the central and southern United States. • Species status: North America’s dunlin population is stable at present, but some biologists fear it’s declining because of the disappearance of wetland habitats in some parts of its range. • First discovered: The first scientific description of the dunlin was written in 1758 by the famed naturalist Carl Linnaeus. Dunlins are also found in several areas of
Europe, a fact evident by their name, which combines the Celtic words “dun” (dune or hill) and “linne” (pool or pond). • Family matters: Dunlins belong to the bird family Scolopacidae, a large group which includes a number of shorebird species. • Length: Between eight and nine inches (wing-span of 17 inches). • Diet: Dunlins eat mollusks, worms and crustaceans. It moves along mudflat areas bobbing its head in a “sewing machine” motion as it methodically picks food items out of the mud. Dunlins in Arctic regions have, on occasion, been observed ingesting lemming teeth. It’s presumed this is used as a source of calcium for eggshell formation. (This trait is not unique to dunlins; several other shorebird species have also been observed doing this.)
Washington State Park Thunderbird Lodge 13041 St. Hwy. 104 (south of DeSoto on MO 21)
(636) 586-2995
3 & 7 mile floats • Cabins • Camping Swimming pool • Kayaking/Tubing open April thru November!
Fishing • Kayaking • RV camping • Cabins • And more! 84 Cat Hollow Trail, Lebanon, MO • (417) 532-4377 www.FORTNIANGUA.com
• Weight: Between two and three ounces. • Distinguishing characteristics: In winter, dunlins are grayish-brown above with whitish breasts. In breeding plumage, it has a large black area on its belly, a ru-
fous cap and a rufous back. Juvenile dunlins have reddish back, a more “scaly” appearance to its back feathers and brownish-black splotches on the belly. Like all shorebirds, it has a longer bill which is wellsuited for digging invertebrate creatures out of muddy shores of lakes and wetland areas. A dunlin’s call is something of a raspy “krreee.” • Life span: Information not available. • Habitat: Dunlins breed in wet coastal tundra. They winter along mudflats, estuaries, marshes, flooded fields, sandy beaches and shores of lakes and ponds. • Life cycle: Courtship and mating occur in the northern reaches of the continent in late spring and summer. The nest is a shallow scrape on the ground lined with vegetation, into which two to six eggs are laid and incubated by both parents. Both parents feed the young for a few days. After that, the young begin to feed themselves. Young dunlins are able to fly in less than a month. (source: MDC)
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Are significant changes coming to the North Fork?
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first floated the North Fork of the White River in 1988. It was a marathon float trip, leaving home north of St. Louis and driving five hours just to get there, floating for eight hours and then driving five hours back home all in the same day. Despite the exhausting day, I immediately fell in love with the North Fork. And who wouldn’t? The North Fork begins in southeast Wright County, Mo., and flows roughly 70 miles south to the Arkansas border, where it becomes a part of Norfork Lake. The stream is unique for Missouri because it is a freestone river, meaning that it has a rock base rather than a gravel base. Having a rock base allows for more structure in the stream and creates better habitat Bill Hoagland for fish. ———— There are several major springs that feed the North Fork, including “Rainbow Springs,” which is one of the larger springs in Missouri. Because it is spring-fed and because it has a rock base, the North Fork has wild, self-breeding rainbow trout and sustainable hatchery brown trout for at least 15 miles downstream from Rainbow Springs. In my opinion, it is the best trout stream in Missouri and is comparable to some of the more famous trout streams in the Rocky Mountains. It also supports a healthy population of smallmouth bass and google-eye in all sections of the river. A good portion of the lower half of the stream flows through the “Devil’s Backbone Wilderness Area,” where development is prohibited both along the river and deep into the forests on both sides. The scenery as you pass through the Devil’s Backbone has always been magnificent, with tall bluffs towering over the river and huge trees providing a shady canopy along the shoreline. And the quality of the fishing has always matched the scenery of this beautiful stream, with both trout and bass in good supply. For a long time, it has been my favorite stream to fish in Missouri. But nothing can stay the same forever, especially when we are talking about favorite fishing spots. And with a favorite fishing spot, the changes are usually subtle but not always. There have been two “events” that occurred in the past few years that could eventually affect the quality of the fishing and the scenery on the beautiful North Fork. The first event was the removal of a
low water dam that since the late 1800s had been in place on the lower North Fork near Dawt Mill. The low water dam had been constructed for the purpose of funneling water from the river into a diversion chute to power the Dawt Mill. The significance of the dam with respect to fish habitat on the North Fork did not really come into play until the State of Arkansas began stocking Norfork Lake with striped bass and hybrid striped bass. The presumption was that the low water dam at Dawt Mill, in effect, prevented striped bass from coming into the North Fork and competing with the trout that had been established on the North Fork, although there were a few years when the lake flooded and backed up over the dam or when river levels overtopped the dam. Unfortunately, this low water dam was permanently breached in 2013 and most of it was removed in 2017 following a drowning in 2016. Since that time, striped bass and hybrid striped bass have had unlimited access to the North Fork. The second significant “event” was the massive flooding that occurred along the North Fork in late April 2017. During a two-day period, almost 11 inches of rain fell in the North Fork drainage; experts felt that this was a 500-year flood, meaning a flood of that magnitude would be likely to occur
only once every 500 years. The destruction caused by the flood was mind-boggling. (To get a birds-eye view of the destruction, go to the forum section of www.ozarkanglers.com and check out the video of the flood damage.) From a fishing habitat viewpoint, the flood washed away much of the canopy that was on both sides of the river. In addition, erosion caused gravel deposition to occur on the natural bedrock substrate, and it could take years for this gravel to work its way through the stream system. I have had several discussions with Nathan Recktenwald, a fisheries management biologist with the Missouri Department of Conservation, as to whether these two events will significantly impact fish and habitat on the North Fork. Recktenwald does not believe that the loss of the low water dam at Dawt Mill has had much impact on the trout population because as a practical matter, striped bass and hybrid striped bass have been coming over the low water dam during floods for years since being stocked in the 1970s, and their presence has not resulted in fewer trout. Moreover, the striped bass and hybrid striped bass are fish that do not spawn/breed on their own anyway, so we are not dealing with a species of fish, such as the Asian carp, that can take over a river by outbreeding other
fish. The more significant event, according to Recktenwald, was the April 2017 flood. Not only did it remove needed shade and cover along the shore line, it also rearranged existing structure in the stream itself. It also increased the amount of gravel in the river although it is too soon to predict whether the North Fork will change from a freestone-based stream to a gravel-based stream. Since the flood and because of it, there has been a measurable decline in the trout numbers in the North Fork but it is believed that the numbers will gradually improve over time on their own if we do not have anymore major floods for a while. In the meantime, the Missouri Department of Conservation is not sitting on the sidelines waiting to see what happens. According to Recktenwald, thousands of surplus brown trout have been released this past year in the North Fork and as for future years, efforts are being made to automatically increase the number of brown trout being released there annually. In addition, many volunteers have helped remove much of the debris that was left in the stream following the flood and that effort is continuing. Let’s hope so. The North Fork is a real gem for the Ozarks. (Bill Hoagland can be reached at billhoagland70@gmail.com.)
WINTER IN THE WOODS
A season to experience
For many people, the winter solstice conjures up negative thoughts of shorter days, longer nights and colder weather.!But, try to think of it as the start of a special time of year to get out into the woods to do some exploring in Mark Twain National Forest.! With the leaves on the ground, one can see for quite a distance in the woods.!Interesting landscape features hidden during the growing season are suddenly visible.! Rock-lined streams and pools, ringed with green mosses, can make for a beautiful memory or a picture captured with a camera.!Imagine these features sprinkled with snow, or decorated with some sparkling icicles.! Add in the sound of our winter birds rustling in the leaves or scolding us as we walk through the quiet woods.! It truly is a season to experience in your national forest. (Photo courtesy of USDA Forest Service; David Bechtold, photographer.)! !
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Time for a long-overdue road trip to Branson
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t had been over 40 years since either Nancy or I had been to Branson. That fact just added to the excitement of our trip to S.W. Missouri last summer. We took advantage of the long Labor Day weekend and headed south to St. Louis and then down Highway 44. Anytime we go through St. Louis our first stop is always at the Collinsville exit to grab some great B-B-Q at Bandanas. We love their food and the service is always exceptional. This visit was no different. It was after 6 p.m. when we hit the road so we decided to go halfway and spend the first night on the road. We found a wonderful Pear Tree Inn in Rolla. It was really clean, well-furnished and had an amazing breakMike Roux fast buffet, as well. I recommend ———— Pear Tree Inn as you travel through Missouri. After a short stop in Springfield to browse and lunch at Bass Pro, we headed straight south to Branson. We stayed there in a gorgeous condo at Village of Indian Point on Table Rock Lake just five miles from Silver Dollar City. These accommodations were recommended highly by a friend and our stay there could not have been better. The décor of the condo and the view of the lake were outstanding. Having a full kitchen surely helped out our trip expenses by not having to eat every meal out. The grounds and both indoor and outdoor pools were perfect. They also have a boat dock and workout room. Village at Indian Point is a true winner. That first evening in Branson we took in a very interesting show. Rick Thomas is an illusionist who performed in Las Vegas for over 20 years. I describe his show as “very interesting” because a couple of his illusions continue to baffle me to this day. I WILL see his show again so I can have a better
Our very muddy ATV ride through the Ozark mountains at Shepherd of the Hills park was one of many highlights of our wonderful Branson vacation.
chance to figure him out. Nancy and I spent the next day at Shepherd of the Hills Park. Many of you know of the Shepherd of the Hills story and outdoor theatre. New ownership has expanded this experience so that you and your family can spend an entire day there and never get bored.
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We did an incredibly fun zip line. We took a Jeep tour of the entire grounds and also did a 90-minute ATV ride around 160 acres of Ozark mountains. The ATV ride was Nancy’s favorite part of the whole trip. You must put Shepherd of the Hills on your destination list. No trip to Branson is complete without a few hours at Silver Dollar City. And since the Village on Indian Point was so close, this was an easy decision. As I said earlier, it had been decades since either Nancy or I had been here. We were not sure what to expect based upon our memories. There are a lot more rides now and roller coasters. One of which I let Nancy talk me into riding with her. Afterwards we both decided we were too old for that stuff. We did, however, decide it would be a great destination with our grandkids. We had some great food as usual and took in a couple of shows. Over Labor Day weekend was their Gospel Music Festival. The group that really got our attention was the Abundance Quartet. These four guys from Branson are as good as any I have ever heard. And I have sung in several quartets. Our final event in Branson was my favorite. We went to the Dolly Parton Stampede dinner theater. WOW!!! It was awesome. If you like cowboys, Indians, horses, cattle, buffalo and a ton of great food, this is your spot. The horses and their riders were world-class and the acts were nothing short of amazing. The singers and dancers were in western costumes and they were some of the most entertaining I’d seen in a long while. They also have lots of trained animals that added to the action. I will go back. As you can tell we crammed a lot into four days. And we still did not even scratch the surface of everything Branson has to offer. Which is exactly why we booked our stay there for this coming Labor Day weekend before we left. Hope to see ya there. (Mike Roux can be reached at 217-257-7895.)
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RiverHillsTraveler.com
A winter gathering full of tribal traditions M y wife and I were recently invited to an American Indian gathering in Miami, Okla., by a tribal member. We were welcomed and treated very well even though we were not one of them. We observed Indian games, storytelling, singing and dancing. One of the games was “find the black stone.” I guess that was what it was called. They did have a special name but it was spoken in their native language. This is the way “find the black stone” was played. First of all, the stones were marbles Bob Brennecke — 3 white and 1 ———— black. There were two participants sitting across from each other with 4 small highly-decorated cloths about 8 inches by 12 inches between them on the ground. One person was the “hider” and the other had a stick about 3 feet long, the “finder.” The hider of the stones tried to hide the stones so as to confuse the opponent with the stick. The object of the game was to find the black stone on the third try to win. If you didn’t find the black ball on the third try, the hider got credit (counting sticks). I couldn’t figure out exactly how the scoring went with half-point sticks and whole point sticks but everyone had a ball telling the guesser where they
thought the black stone was. The finder would even question the hider where he might have hidden the black stone, pointing with his stick to the cloths he thought the stone might be hiding without touching the cloths. If by some chance the finder accidentally touched the cloth without turning over the cloth, that was a definite guess and the cloth must reveal the stone under it. Some of the finders questioned the hider extensively, trying to confuse them. If by chance the finder would
browbeat the hider enough he could challenge them and force the hider to show where the black stone would be. If the hider failed to expose the black stone, the guesser would win. I’m sure there was more than sticks involved originally but the discussions and bantering got rather heated. The stories they told were season-related and could only be told after the first heavy frost and the frogs were in hibernation, or after the first spring heavy thunderstorm. Winter stories were not to be told in the summer. Some stories were short and some went on and on. Some of the stories may have had a lesson and some were just stories. The storytellers were very animated, swinging their arms depicting certain actions in the story, Some of the stories were humorous. The singing and dancing were done together. There were different dances; the gourd dance, the stomp, and an open friendship dance.
Each of the dancers — especially the women — had fancy blankets, beads, moccasins and jewelry. The men had a special shawl with decorations on them. I saw the Purple Heart on one and service ribbons along with beads and ribbons. Some of the men wore hats or ribbons with beads ribbons and feathers. Beautiful people and customs. This is the drum that was used in the singing and dancing. There were about 10 to 12 drummers/singers and the beat went on for long periods of time. The singers were exhausted at the end of the session because the beating and singing were intense. The sticks that were used on the drum were wrapped in skins and sinew. The drum was made of a laminated wood frame with rawhide and ties holding the skins tight. The drumming was started by one drummer and picked up by the others. At the end of each session one specific drummer finished the session with one loud thud. Although this MYAAMIA Winter Gathering was not open to the public, we were truly welcomed and treated with respect, something we should do to and for each other. This tribe has done much for its members: building facilities for the old and young, providing education, and sharing their heritage and history to us outsiders. Thank you for the opportunity to share with you. (Bob Brennecke lives in Ballwin, Mo., and can be reached at robertbrennecke@hotmail.com.)
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RiverHillsTraveler.com
Think safety while in the woods this spring
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esides fishing and boating activities, hunting probably has more inherent potential hazards than anything else. At the top of the list of these potentially hazardous hunting activities is turkey hunting. I, in no way throughout this safety article, i-tend to try to scare someone away from turkey hunting. However, I do believe that good safety training can help keep you alive and well. The first step is to identify some of the possibilities for injury that are built-in to turkey hunting. Along with recognizing the problems, we will briefly discuss some ways to reduce or eliminate the chances under which these situations may occur. Know the range of your gun and load. The only way you can be safe when discharging a firearm is to know the range of the proMike Roux jectile or projectiles ———— that you shoot. How much farther does one gauge shoot compared to another? What size shot travels the furthest? What gauges and shot size are legal in the area that you hunt? All of these questions must have specific, accurate answers for you to know enough to be safe. Be sure of your target. It amazes me how, every year, there are stories of hunters being shot during the spring turkey season. I do not know of one state that has a spring turkey hunting season that does not require a visible beard on harvested birds. Based on how close you have to be to absolutely be sure of a beard, how could you mistake a hunter for a turkey? Do not think all turkey hunting shooting accidents occur at long range. Fatalities happen almost every year and it is very hard to kill a man at 50-yards with #6 shot. You can imagine how close you would have to be with a shotgun to make a fatal shot on a human. How can mistakes like that happen?
Carrying your gobbler out of the field in an orange safety bag is the best bet for a safe exit.
Wild turkey spurs can inflict major damage to you, even after the bird is dead.
Be careful what colors you wear. Examine the head of a wild turkey. Notice the whites, the blues and the reds. These are the specific colors of the turkey hunter’s target. These then become the very colors for you not to wear. It may not even be a conscious process, but an innocent mistake like the flash of a white T-shirt at your throat or a white sock showing between your boot-top and pant leg. You can also not assume that every hunter in the woods is as safety conscious as you are. You must not only be aware of not wearing these colors, but be very careful when you see these colors. Be very sure of your target and do not just shoot at colors, movement or sound. Do not gobble. Unfortunately, people do sometimes shoot in the direction of a gobble. This is the best reason I can think of not to make this call. Besides that, the gobble of the wild turkey is not designed to attract gobblers. The gobble is the only true mating call a turkey makes. Its objective is to attract hens to the gobbler. An adult male wild turkey challenges other toms with clucks and sometimes yelps. A gobble is not a call that one tom makes to another tom, but it is a potential hazard for a less-than-careful hunter. Wear blaze orange. The best way to avoid being mistaken for a turkey is to wear blaze orange in the woods. If you feel that it is counter-productive to wear orange while turkey hunting, at least wear an orange cap or vest when you are moving through the timber, walking. If you are “prospecting” (moving and calling to locate birds), be sure to wear orange, at least until you set up on your bird. When you finally drop the hammer on your gobbler, be very careful while getting him out of the woods. A big tom flung over your shoulder and flopping as you walk through the woods looks exactly like what it is, a wild turkey. People shoot at wild turkeys. Put your bird in an orange bag or wrap him with orange tape. You must take care to cover the red, white and blue head as well as the black body and brown feather tips. I use a blaze orange bag made by Hunter’s Specialties. With pack-like shoulder straps, this bag not only keeps you safe, but makes carrying your gob-
bler much easier, too. Another way this bag keeps you safe is to keep ticks and other parasites that the turkey carries from crawling off of him and on to you. It may sound silly, but making “human noises” as you carry your bird out of the woods can help keep you alive, too. Do not trespass. It is very frustrating for a turkey hunter to have a “hot bird” just over the property line. Do not give in to temptation. Do not cross that fence. Hunters on that side of the line do not expect you to be there. Cases like this are accidents looking for places to happen. Set up on your side and try to work the bird to your land. It is not a smart idea, either legally or ethically, to trespass. Respect property lines the way you would like them respected by others. Remember, someone else could be hearing your bird after you get him hot. Be cautious when approaching a shot bird. This may sound a little flaky, but I have heard some pretty nasty stories about hunters being spurred, pecked and wing-beat by dead or dying gobblers. The very first bird I ever harvested taught me a valuable lesson. First of all, I will probably never shoot a bigger
tom. This 27-pound, 5-ounce behemoth sported two 1 7/8-inch, needle sharp spurs. After decking my monster, I quickly ran to him and made the rookie mistake of grabbing him by his feet. He began to flop and tried to fly. He slapped me with a wing and sent my cap and my glasses into orbit. He managed to get one leg loose with which he promptly spurred my knee and my arm, drawing blood at both puncture sites. After a five-minute wrestling match, I finally got his head under my boot and ended the struggle. Since then I have learned the proper technique to tackle a flopping bird. Experienced turkey hunting pro Roger Lewis, from Park Hills, Mo., taught me this trick. Better late than never, right? Get your foot on his head as quickly as possible and maintain that position until the floppin’ stops. Next comes the critical move. Pick your gobbler up by the head, not the feet. For some reason this technique will virtually paralyze even a wounded bird. It will also cut down on the number of band-aids needed for turkey season. Do not fight fatigue. The early mornings of turkey season can really take their toll if you hunt several mornings in a row. Do not let fatigue cloud your judgment. No bird in the world is worth a traffic accident. No turkey on earth is worth taking a marginal shot because you are tired. Rest when you need to, hunt when you can. If having fun is foremost on your mind, then let safety be a part of that fun. Being rested enough to enjoy your hunt is very important. Do not turn turkey hunting into work. If you follow these suggestions and heed these warnings, I believe you will harvest more wild turkeys. The reason I think that is because I know the only way you can shoot these birds is to be in the woods. And the only way to be in the woods is to be alive and healthy. My best advice for you to accomplish both of these is easy. You be safe. (Mike Roux can be reached at 217257-7895.)
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READER PHOTOS William H. Shaffer took this photo of Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) workers in 1937. These CCC workers were preparing to travel to a worksite from Berryman Camp, which was located in Washington County, Mo. Today, Mark Twain National Forest’s Berryman Campground and Trailhead is located on the site where the CCC camp had been built. The USDA Forest Service maintains free campsites, picnic sites and a pavilion at Berryman, along with a trailhead to the 24-mile Berryman National Recreation Trail. (If you would like to submit a photo for publication in the Traveler, please email it to jimmy@ riverhillstraveler.com & be sure to include the “who, what, when and where.” Thank you!)
MCC approves drone policy, suspends hunting & fishing licenses
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he Missouri Conservation Commission met on Feb. 8 at 9 a.m. for its regular open meeting at conservation department headquarters in Jefferson City. Commissioners present were: Marilynn J. Bradford, chair; David W. Murphy, vice-chair; Don C. Bedell, secretary. The Commission: • Approved a contract for construction of the Shanks (Ted) Conservation Area Water Control Structures Replacement project located in Pike County. • Approved a contract for construction of the Perry (Ralph and Martha) Memorial Conservation Area Range Relocation project located in Johnson County. • Approved the purchase of approximately 287 acres in Atchison County as an addition to Brickyard Hill Conservation Area to protect and manage loess hill prairie, which is extremely rare in
Missouri. • Approved the sale of the 40-acre Sunrise Access in Marion County. The property was originally purchased for the construction of a river access on the South Fabius River but the land was found to be too unstable. • Approved the Unmanned Aerial System (Drone) Use Policy. • Approved the sale of an estimated 407,387 board feet of timber located on 191 acres of Compartment 6, Deer Ridge Conservation Area in Lewis County. • Suspended or revoked one or more hunting, fishing, or trapping privileges of 14 individuals for cause: - Bailey T. Brown, Miller, Hunting, add four years to end of current revocation; - Wyatt E. Callen, Edgar Springs, fishing, 1 year; - Edward L. Dixon, Viburnum, hunt-
CAMPGROUND UPDATE
(Campground construction update for Red Bluff Recreation Area (Potosi Unit, Crawford County): ast year, the Forest Service made the decision to move overnight camping facilities out of the floodplain and onto higher ground. Three new camping loops will be constructed and Pines Overlook will be rehabilitated.! A construction contract was awarded to Young’s General Contracting.!Phase 1 started on Nov. 14, 2018, and involves construction of the new campground loop roads.!Vegetation clearing work has been completed.! The trees and brush were cleared from the footprint of the new loop roads and all stumps were removed.!Surveys were also completed for culvert locations.
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The contractor shut down on Dec. 12, 2018, due to wet weather, and all equipment was removed for the winter.!When ground conditions and weather are acceptable, the contractor will resume work with the goal of having the new roads constructed in 2019.! Phase 2 of the project will involve construction of camping spurs, shower houses and other facilities.!The Forest Service is still working to procure funds for Phase 2. Red Bluff Recreation Area will remain open during construction.! Camping in the existing upper and lower camping loops will continue to be available until the new camping areas are ready for use.! Red Bluff Recreation Area is tentatively scheduled to open on April 19, 2019.
ing and fishing, 1 year; - Joe B. Holly, Holland, fishing, 2 years; - Cameron R. Johanning, Lamar, all sport, 1.5 years; - Tom J. McCoy, Madison, hunting, 2 years; - Twar N. Moo, Kansas City, hunting, 1 year; - Daniel C. Shute, Lincoln, hunting, 3 years; - Jayson B. Smith, Crocker, hunting, 3 years; - William E. Smith, Macon, all sport, 2 years; - Caleb R. Sullivan, Patterson, hunting, 6 years; - John D. Turman, St. Clair, hunting, 2 years; - Matthew B. Watson, Purdy, hunting and fishing, add three years to end of current revocation; and - Matthew W. Zimmerman, Cedar
Hill, hunting, 2 years. • Suspended or revoked all hunting and fishing privileges of 254 individuals who are not in compliance with applicable child support laws. • Suspended or revoked one or more hunting, fishing, and trapping privileges of 443 individuals in accordance with the terms of the Interstate Wildlife Violator Compact. • Suspended or revoked hunting privileges of two individuals who inflicted injury to another person while hunting and required the completion of huntereducation training for both. • Suspended or revoked the commercial taxidermy permit of Michael Kalcic, doing business as Wildlife Artworks Taxidermy of Smithfield, for five years for cause. • Elected Don Bedell to serve as secretary. Set the next regular meeting for April 11-12 in Jefferson City.
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STATE from 6 catch some crayfish. All you need is a set of fast hands, a piece of raw chicken or an inexpensive trap. Though not very efficient, this method is probably the most fun. Just wade into any flowing rocky creek and start lifting stones to find the hiding crayfish. Stand on the downstream side of the rock and lift toward yourself so the current flushes away the silt. Crayfish swim backward, so attack from the rear, whether using a dip net or your hands. Bait a crayfish trap with shad or chicken backs. Once in, they have a hard time finding their way back out. Leave traps overnight in slow streams, in shallow still waters, or in eddies within fast streams. To keep captured craws from destroying the bait before more of their friends join the
RiverHillsTraveler.com feast, slip the chicken or shad into a nylon stocking before loading the trap. Great for slow or stillwater crayfishing is to tie a raw chicken leg to a nylon cord, and dip the bait among the rocks, letting it soak for a few minutes. Crayfish will grab hold of the tough skin and stay attached if you lift the bait slowly up off the bottom. Scoop them into a small dip net, but be quick; crayfish usually let go as soon as they break the surface. State Reptile — The Three-Toed Box Turtle Three-toed box turtles can be found in a number of settings in Missouri, but they seem to have a habitat preference for mature oak-hickory forests with numerous openings and edge areas along brushy fields. They are also seen crossing roads throughout the Ozarks. There’s nothing
wrong with helping a turtle cross the road, as long as you stop at a location and in a manner that won’t endanger you, your vehicle or other drivers on the road. When you move a turtle, make sure you move it across the road in the direction it was traveling. If you set it back in the spot from which it came, it will merely try to cross the road again. State Tree Nut — The Eastern Black Walnut Black walnut trees grow throughout Missouri in a variety of soils. The top 10 walnut counties in Missouri (in order by growing stock volume) are: Platte, Jasper, Caldwell, St. Clair, Douglas, Benton, Ralls, Boone, Moniteau, and Ray. The largest black walnut tree is located in Springfield, Missouri, at Hazelwood Cemetery. The tree is 97
feet tall with a circumference of 175 inches. State Nickname — The Show-Me State The state’s nickname is well known throughout the United States and is quoted daily. State Moto — Let the Welfare of the People Be The Supreme Law This is a motoo that all elected and appointed officials should follow. (Bill Wakefield runs the Traveler’s St. Louis office and can be reached at w3@charter.net.)
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March 2019 • Page 17
RiverHillsTraveler.com
Weather conditions perfect for coyote hunting
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he snow and brutally cold temperatures we have endured over the past couple weeks makes doing anything outdoors uncomfortable. However, for those that want to fight the cold weather and still have some fun outdoors, now is a great time of year. One of the best things that March brings to hunters is hungry coyotes. The conditions lately are perfect to call in and shoot these wild canines. The combination of snow cover and bitterly cold temps makes if very difficult for a coyote to make a living. Catching mice is tough in the snow, especially when cold winds form a crust on the surface. Mike Roux Catching larger ———— prey is also difficult. Rabbits, squirrels and even deer make great meals but a coyote or even a pack of coyotes expend a massive amount of energy on a chase for any of these targets. In truly harsh weather coyotes become as much scavenger as predator. The coyote hunter uses these facts to his advantage. Calling coyotes this time of year with wounded rabbit calls is the most effective and efficient way to get a dog into range. That is exactly what happened on New Year’s Day. I was hunting a spot along the levee where I had seen lots of coyote sign during deer season. I had made a couple of set-ups and calling sequences when I decided to give it a try right at the base of the levee. I was in snow camo in 2 inches of fresh powder over about an inch of ex-
Putting the right components together into a single system will improve not only your consistency, but your accuracy as well.
Mike Roux has developed a complete blackpowder program that has been proven successful throughout many different hunting seasons.
isting snow. I had to wear sunglasses to decrease the glare of the snow on this bright sunshiny morning. I tucked in at the base of the levee within a clump of switch-grass. I literally disappeared. I began calling very softly. I like to start by calling quietly, in case there is a coyote within 100 yards. This way I do not startle the dog and scare him off. I then get progressively louder so as to attract coyotes, or other predators, from several hundred yards. I use the frantic “scramble” of a rabbit in distress. This will bring hungry predators very quickly. They all want a free meal in the winter. As I called I caught a glimpse of movement along the river. I readied my rifle and attempted to find my target in my scope. The coyote was moving right at me. That is less than a perfect shot. At 20 yards I stood up and the dog turned immediately. As soon as he was broadside and my crosshair found his shoulder, I fired. I could see nothing but smoke. I topped the levee just in time to see him fall dead in a cut cornfield. The smoke I mentioned earlier was because I was hunting that day with a .50-caliber muzzleloading rifle. Let me take just a minute to promote this type of weapon for coyote hunting. Traditionally varmint hunting has been done with high-powered, flatshooting center-fire rifles. Shooting at great distance gives the hunter a great advantage and I admit that I admire those guys who shoot predators at hundreds of yards. However, being a dedicated professional game caller, I would rather make a really close shot as a result of my calling and concealment than a long
one. I shoot a Thompson/Center Arms Pro Hunter in .50-caliber. The Pro Hunter is a stainless steel, composite stock version of the ever-popular Encore. I cannot count the number of deer I have taken with this gun. Its accuracy and dependability are the main reasons I began coyote hunting with it. It puts predators down as quickly and cleanly as it does deer. I own several muzzleloaders and this is, by far, my favorite. I shoot sabot .50-caliber bullets made by Hornady. The sabot sleeve of the Lock-N-Load speed sabot has a peg coming out of its base to accommodate the 50-grain Pyrodex pellets I use to propel my 250-grain bullets. I use three of these pellets. You will read lots of articles that say two pellets are plenty for any muzzleloader application. I tend to disagree and my results speak for themselves.
I also prefer Winchester #209 primers for my Pro Hunter. You might think “a primer is a primer,” but I have put many pieces together in my blackpowder program and I believe the sum is worth many times more than its parts. Therefore the “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” axiom applies here, for sure. So get out your long underwear and your heavy boots and get outside this winter and put a hurt on the coyote population in your area. Not only is it great fun, but you will be doing a great service for many game animals along the way. You can find out much more about the products I use while hunting with a muzzleloader by checking out the websites of the various manufacturers I have mentioned in this article. (Mike Roux can be reached at 217257-7895.)
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FISH from 1 were outings that he arranged, and I cheerfully went along as a kid. But now I had just graduated from high school, my brother Bob was on summer break from St. Louis University and with a neighbor buddy, we organized a fishing trip. We drove Bob’s car to a camping spot at Black River’s Peolia Bluff. To access the bluff, we had to traverse a roadbed of loose gravel formed from a now dry riverbed. This route led to a “primitive” resort known as Kapelski’s Resort (cabins with no indoor plumbing or running water, but great fried chicken and homemade ice cream on Sunday). Our family had maneuvered this route on a number of occasions vacationing at Kapelski’s. On some occasions we got stuck in the loose gravel and the resort owner would come pull us out using a team of mules and a chain. With some trepidation, our fishing party managed to get through without getting stuck. Anyway, let’s get back to fishing. Black River’s Peolia Bluff was several miles past Kapelski’s Resort. I remembered Peolia Bluff from our family vacations in that area.
Now, as maturing adults, we camped and fished at this spot. I used the fishing skills that, as a kid, my dad taught me. I remember two skills I learned that today are history. One, how to trap minnows using a glass minnow trap with a funnel-like opening in front, and a lid with holes at the back to let the water flow through the trap. Crackers and cornmeal poured into the
trap attracted beautiful two- to three-inch “shiner” minnows if, with cord attached to the handle on the trap and a large rock tied at the other end, you placed the trap at exactly the right spot… in a somewhat rapid current and about 14 inches deep. If the current was too slow or the water depth too deep, you trapped only small minnows. Today’s plastic traps are OK, but not as effective as the now-outlawed
glass trap. The second skill I acquired is how to “thumb” a Pflueger free-wheeling level wind reel, without getting a “birds-nest.” Today’s engineered bait-casting reels and open-face reels make throwing your bait so much easier. As the years passed, I fished a multitude of Missouri lakes, stocked trout parks and many free-flowing streams. I’ve navigated the Current River using a classic all-wood Jon boat with a Johnson 10 hp outboard motor, fished lakes in a pointed bow boat and a 25 hp motor, used guide services in a 18-foot Jon boat with 45 hp jet outboard, and have greatly enjoyed many-a-day float fishing in a canoe. So, when did I first start fishing? I started angling 60-plus years ago. I became a confirmed believer that the absolute best way for a nature-loving fisherman to truly appreciate our Ozark streams is to float fish in a canoe with an optional stern or side-mounted electric trolling motor. Quiet solitude! Slow-paced, with time to look and really enjoy the ever-changing panorama of river bends, bluffs, flowers, trees and yes, the phenomenal smallmouth bass. (Len Stagoski can be reached by email at las4331@gmail.com.)
Time to get out my fishing gear & give it another go
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he hunting season is over. I have put away my .30-.30 and my bow and arrows. I will get them out off and on this summer just to keep them tuned, or keep me tuned up. I am told it’s fishing time. It has been a very long time since I have been fishing. I gave it up mostly because I could never catch anything. I am probably the world’s worst when it comes to fishing. All I seem to do is drown worms, as they say. It is my belief that if fish had a tongue, they would be sticking it out at me. But I did always enjoy the camaraderie of those I spent time with on fishing trips. After so long it becomes frustrating, Tom and I am not one to Boydston sit and watch some———— one else fish. After that I would make an excuse as to why I could not go with them. The best times I had fishing was when we camped out. Those were great, and I didn’t care if I caught a fish or not. There were always plenty of things to do around camp. I almost always did the cooking. Dutch oven cooking is my favorite. I have been doing it for years. I’m not saying I’m an expert by any means, but I’m not too bad. I haven’t had many complaints, but that could be because if they complained I just might not cook for them anymore. But, I wouldn’t really do that to them. I do my practicing at home in my backyard. That way they don’t have to suffer if I make a mistake on some recipe. Dutch oven cooking is one of my favorite pastimes. Over the years I have collected many different skillets, griddles, and all of the ovens up through the 12-inch. Never had much use for any over the 12-inch. I am ready to go again, as
soon as the weather gets a little warmer. I didn’t mind going in the cold weather a long time ago, but not anymore. Guess I will dig out what fishing equipment I may still have and see what is good and what is not. I know all of the fishing line will need replaced. Time for me to try again. My luck may have changed for the better. It is possible, isn’t it? Also I best start practicing on my cooking. So I took a couple of days to get some of my Dutch ovens re-seasoned and check on my fishing gear. I started with the oven. I put the vegetable shortening in the
dutch oven then placed it in the oven at 350 degrees. I put aluminum foil in the bottom of the oven to catch any drippings. Well, that was a big mistake. About twenty minutes later the house was filled with smoke. There goes the smoke alarms. So I shut off the oven and turned on the attic fan. The aluminum foil stuck to the bottom of the oven and that was a miss. The little woman (my wife) was not real happy, but she didn’t give me too hard of a time. I wanted to finish it outside but the wind was blowing 35-40 mph. The wind finally let up after a couple of days and then we had freezing rain. I guess it will have to wait. When I finally got to my fishing gear I was really glad I wasn’t on a fishingcamping trip today! My reels are shot, and one rod is broken. So, I will have to go shopping for fishing gear. I need some good equipment anyway, it will be fun. Looking forward to doing some fishing when the weather gets a little better. (Tom Boydston lives in Neosho, Mo., and can be reached by text at 417-4396048.)
March 2019 • Page 19
RiverHillsTraveler.com
HIKE from 1 tures in the state: the ruins of a 19th century "castle" that was constructed on a high limestone bluff overlooking Ha Ha Tonka Spring and the Niangua arm of the Lake of the Ozarks. The 3,751-acre park is Missouri's premier showcase of karst geology and is unique in the quantity and quality of its remarkable geological features.! Ha Ha Tonka's 14 walking trails,!covering more than 15 scenic miles throughout the park,!make it easy for visitors to experience the honeycomb of tunnels, rock bridges, caverns, springs, sinkholes and other natural areas. Visitors can peer into caves, climb 316 steps from the spring to the "castle" on a wooden boardwalk that circles the spring chasm, or navigate well-worn paths through the woodland area and the park's glades. Jim Divincen, administrator for the Lake of the Ozarks Tri-County Lodging Association, enjoys spending some of his free time hiking the trails at Ha Ha Tonka. One of Divincen's favorite trails is the park's longest, Turkey Pen Hollow. This 6.5-mile hike winds through the scenic and rugged Ha Ha Tonka Oak Woodland Natural Area. "With some near 200-foot climbs in elevation, this trail provides many spectacular views," said Divincen. "The first time I finished the trail, I remember thinking, 'Wow, that was really special.' Since then, I've hiked this trail on several occasions at different times of the year and it's an absolutely beautiful experience no matter the season or the weather." Divincen recommends that those planning to hike Turkey Pen Hollow should allow at least three hours to complete the trail. In addition, Divincen encourages hikers of any of the trails at the Lake to be sure to bring plenty of drinking water.!More details on Ha Ha Tonka's trails can be found at mostateparks.com/park/ha-ha-tonkastate-park. Lake of the Ozarks State Park is Missouri's largest park consisting of 17,626 acres, and also is the most visited. It is a favorite among backpackers and anglers and also features a 10-mile aquatic trail, accessible only by boat.! On land, 12 trails, ranging from 0.8 of a mile to 13.5 miles, wind through the park. Lake of the Ozarks State Park also features trails that accommodate moun-
Hikers take in the breathtaking view at Ha Ha Tonka State Park.
tain bikers and equestrians for those who would like to explore the park by bicycle or on horseback.! One of the park's more popular trails is Coakley Hollow, a self-guided interpretive trail that measures a fairly easy distance of one mile. Coakley Hollow meanders through one of the most ecologically diverse areas in the park, featuring six different types of ecosystems, including dolomite glades, fens, spring-fed streams and several types of woodlands. Interpretive stations are located along the trail, making it easy to learn about the terrain and rare species encountered along the hike. "A great family-friendly trail at Lake of the Ozarks State Park is the Lakeview Bend Trail," said Divincen. This 1.5-mile trail begins at the campground check-in station along State Highway 134 in Kaiser and runs along the banks of Lake of the Ozarks. "There are some splendid views of the lake from this trail, especially in-season, from June through October, when the water level is up," Divincen said. Hidden below the surface of Lake of the Ozarks State Park is!Ozark Caverns, one of four show caves in the Lake area. Informative park interpreters lead hourlong, narrated hand-held lantern tours of Ozark Caverns' underground beauty from mid-May until mid-September. For more information on the trails and features of Lake of the Ozarks State Park, visit mostateparks.com/park/lakeozarks-state-park. Both state parks are free and open to the public year-round.!Each offers spectacular shows of color during the spring and fall, and native plant species and
wildlife thrive in all seasons. Five unique Missouri conservation areas at Lake of the Ozarks welcome hikers and feature designated walking trails, birding areas and natural areas to explore as well.
The conservation areas also are free and open year-round. For more details on all the Lake-area conservation areas, their trailheads, and other activities and amenities available, call the Camdenton Conservation Service Center at (573) 346-2210, or head to the Missouri Department of Conservation website at!www.mdc.mo.gov!to access an interactive atlas for detailed maps of the different areas. There are many lodging options available in close proximity to the state parks and conservation areas, making it easy to relax and unwind after a day on the trails. Accommodations range from full-service resorts to smaller, family-owned resorts; quaint bed and breakfasts to fully-equipped vacation rental homes and condominiums; rustic cabins and comfortable campgrounds; and RV parks and familiar hotels and motels. For a complete listing of lodging options available around the Lake area, visit the accommodations page at!www.FunLake.com.
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Name______________________________________________ Address____________________________________________ City____________________________ST______Zip_________ Phone______________________________________________ Email______________________________________________ Hikers of all ages enjoy the variety of trails at the Lake of the Ozarks.
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