Market Life recipe edition - part 2 by lscpublishing

Market Life The Borough Market magazine boroughmarket.org.uk

A collection of recipes to inspire home cooks Part two

Spring salad Jenny Chandler

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Dhruv Baker Inspired by Croatia — Bakalar — Cévapčići with ajvar — Blitva — Pašticada — Rogalyky (curd cheese biscuits)

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Paula McIntyre Inspired by Northern Ireland — Razor clams with dulse, guanciale and cider — Beef shin and barley broth with treacle farls and whipped spring onion butter — Crusted mutton chops with braised black chickpeas and parsley root — Crispy polenta and creamed leeks with purple sprouting broccoli and Corleggy — Baked Irish whiskey custard, honeycomb crumble wafers and candied apple

Jenny Chandler Inspired by asparagus season — Asparagus soup — Asparagus with tarragon hollandaise on toast — Crab and asparagus tart — Spring salad — White asparagus with manchego and marcona almonds — Seared beef with asparagus stir-fry

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Urvesh Parvais Inspired by early summer vegetables 16 19 19

— Mooli thepla — Ringan bhartha — Griddled courgettes, spicy chickpeas — Green beans, matter paneer — Samphire, girolles, garlic, plums — Spiced new potatoes

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Dhruv Baker Inspired by Croatia — Bakalar — Cévapčići with ajvar — Blitva — Pašticada — Rogalyky (curd cheese biscuits) Market Life Issue 42 Images: Kim Lightbody

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Blitva

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Bakalar Serves 6-8 as a starter, more as a canape Prep 2 days (for soaking the salt cod) Cook 1 hour

The first time I tried bakalar, a classic Croatian salt cod dish, was in Istria after a very long day of driving. The sun was setting and everyone was tired, hungry and a bit tetchy. When we eventually found the house we were looking for, dinner was waiting, the first course of which was a huge bowl of creamy, salty and delicious bakalar. Served on freshly baked bread, drizzled with excellent olive oil and accompanied by a glass of excellent Istrian malvasia, this was exactly what was needed. It is one of my favourite food memories from my time in Croatia. — 400g salt cod — 200g potatoes — 100ml whole milk — 100ml extra virgin olive oil — 3 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed — A bunch of fresh parsley, finely chopped — Prepare the salt cod by soaking it in cold water for 2 days, changing the water twice a day. — Place the cod in a saucepan with cold water and bring to the boil and simmer for an hour or so until very tender—you can shorten the cooking time with a pressure cooker. — As the cod cooks, bring the potatoes to the boil in another pan of water. Keep them whole and with their skins on, as this will give you a drier mash. Once cooked (if you can insert a metal skewer or very thin knife with little resistance), drain and allow to dry. When cool enough to handle, peel away the skins and push the potatoes though a potato ricer into a bowl. — Drain the cod, remove any skin and bones and place into a food processor (you can do this in a bowl and mix vigorously with a wooden spoon but I tend to go for the food processor option) along with the mashed potato, the milk, the garlic, a splash of olive oil, and salt and pepper to taste. As you pulse, trickle in the rest of the olive oil. You will end up with a gloriously glossy, pale, light consistency. — Stir through the parsley. Pour a glug more olive oil over the top, then serve with toasted sourdough

Ćevapčići with ajvar Serves 6-8 as a starter (with ajvar left over) Prep 45 mins (plus at least 1 hour for chilling the ćevapčići) Cook 1 hour

I fell in love with ajvar on day one of my Croatian adventure. You see it everywhere. It’s perfect with grilled fish or meats, like these kofta-like kebabs. It’s a game-changer for even the most hapless of barbecuers—put a pot of it on the table, and everything else becomes easy. The leftover ajvar from this recipe will keep in the fridge for up to a week. For the ćevapčići: — 500g pork mince — 500g beef mince — 1 egg white — 3-4 cloves of garlic, crushed — 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda — 1½ tsp of cayenne pepper — 1 large white onion, finely diced For the ajvar: — 4 red peppers — 1 large aubergine — 4 cloves of garlic, peeled — 50ml extra virgin olive oil — Juice of 1 lemon — 3 tbsp red wine vinegar — 1 tsp caster sugar — 1 generous pinch of chilli flakes — Mix all the ćevapčići ingredients in a large bowl. Form into 7-8cm sausages—you want them a uniform thickness, unlike koftas which can be thicker in the middle. — Place onto a baking sheet and refrigerate for a couple of hours, or overnight (this will help them stay intact when cooking) — To make the ajvar, heat the oven to 220C. Brush the peppers and the aubergine with olive oil and roast in the oven for 30-40 minutes, until the skins blacken and char (you can do these on the barbecue too if you wish) — Remove the veg from the oven, place in a bowl, cover tightly and leave for 10-15 mins. When cool enough to handle, rub or peel the skins off the peppers and aubergine. Take care to remove all the seeds from the peppers. — Place the peppers and aubergines into a food processor along with the remaining ingredients, and pulse to gorgeous, thick, bright orange puree. Season to taste. — Heat a splash of olive oil in a griddle pan or frying pan and fry the ćevapčići in batches so that you don’t crowd the pan, turning every 5-6 mins to ensure they are evenly browned all over. This will take approximately 20-25 mins. — Serve the ćevapčići with ajvar, diced red onion a wedge of lemon and some flatbreads.

Alternative Instead of a griddle or frying pan, cook the c´evapčići in a 200C oven, or—even better—on a barbecue. The peppers and aubergines for the ajvar would also pick up extra flavour by being grilled on the barbecue.

Market Life Recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

Blitva Serves 4-6 as a side dish Prep 20 mins Cook 25 mins

This is such a simple dish—just swiss chard, potatoes and garlic, sauteed in olive oil— but while it may not be fancy, it is a glorious reminder of just how delicious a good potato can be. Blitva works particularly well as a side dish for grilled fish: why would you want to destroy the flavour of an amazing fish by serving it up with something really complex and overwhelming? — 1 bunch of swiss chard — 300g waxy potatoes, peeled and cut into 2cm dice — 3 cloves of garlic, sliced — Cut the leafy parts of the chard off the stalks and slice them into even strips about 2cm wide. Chop up the stalks. Wash. — Place the potatoes in a pan of salted water and bring to the boil. Cook for 7-8 mins until starting to soften, drain well and set aside. — Heat 4-5 tbsp olive oil in a large frying pan along with the sliced garlic, and when the garlic starts to sizzle gently add the potatoes. Saute the potatoes for 5-6 mins until they just start to colour, then add the chard stalks and continue to cook for a further 3-4 mins. — Add the leaves, season with salt and pepper and cook until the leaves wilt. Take off the heat, check the seasoning and serve while hot.

Bakalar Left: ćevapčići with ajvar Below: pašticada

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Pašticada Serves 6 Prep 12 hours (including marinating) Cook 3+ hours

This beef stew is probably the most famous of Croatian dishes—although famous might be overegging it! It’s quite fiddly to prepare and needs plenty of time both to marinate and to cook, but the results are well worth it—sweet and sour, rich and satisfying. — 2kg piece of topside (as uniform a thickness as possible) — 200g block of pancetta, cut into 1cm-wide batons — 4 cloves of garlic, cut lengthways into quarters — 400ml red wine — 150ml cider vinegar — 4 bay leaves — 2 sprigs of rosemary — 4 tbsp vegetable oil — 2 large white onions, roughly chopped — 400g carrots, peeled and chopped — 150g celery, fibres removed, roughly cut — 100g parsley root, peeled and chopped (substitute with parsnips if you can’t get parsley root) — 200ml dessert wine or port — 1 tbsp tomato puree — 1 litre beef stock — 10-12 pitted prunes — 5 cloves — 2 tbsp runny honey — Trim any fat or sinew off the beef. Using a sharp, thin blade, make 5-6 incisions lengthways into each end—wiggle the blade around a little to make some room. Insert the batons of pancetta into three of the incisions on each end of the beef (freezing the pancetta batons in advance makes it much easier). Push the strips of garlic into the remaining holes. — Put the beef in a large non-metallic container, pour over the wine and vinegar and add the bay leaves and rosemary. Cover, then leave in the fridge overnight to marinate. — Heat the oven to 150C. Heat 2 tbsp vegetable oil in a large, lidded casserole dish. Take the beef out of the marinade, pat dry, sear on all sides and set aside. Keep the marinade for later. — Add the remaining vegetable oil to the casserole. When hot, saute the onions, carrots, celery and parsley root (or parsnips) until they start to colour. Add the dessert wine or port and when bubbling, add the reserved marinade. Bring to the boil and reduce by a quarter. — Stir in the stock and tomato puree and bring back to a simmer. Add the prunes, cloves, honey and some salt and pepper. Return the beef to the casserole with everything else, cover, then cook in the oven for 3 hours. If the beef isn’t very tender, cook for another 30-45 mins. — Remove the beef from the dish and set aside on a plate. Discard the bay leaves and the rosemary stalks and whizz everything else together with a stick blender or in a jug blender. Adjust the seasoning if needed. — Slice the beef into generous slices of around 3-4cm thick and serve with freshly cooked gnocchi, with some of the sauce poured over.

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Brodet Serves 4 as a generous main (6 as a starter or lighter meal) Prep 25 mins Cook 45mins

— 2 white onions, finely diced — 3 cloves of garlic, crushed — 450g tin of tomatoes — 150ml white wine — 20ml white wine vinegar — 400g firm white fish (hake or monkfish for instance), cut into 70-75g pieces — 12 large raw prawns, head and tail on, shell removed from half and the other half left with the shell on — 2 medium squid, cleaned and cut into rings (your fishmonger will be able to do this) — 250g live mussels, rinsed and beards removed — 600ml fish stock — 1 bunch of fresh parsley, finely chopped — 1 lemon cut into wedges, to serve — Heat 4 tbsp olive oil in a large, deep frying pan, add the onions and garlic and cook for 10-12 mins, until the onions are translucent but not starting to colour. Add the wine and vinegar and reduce by two thirds. Add the tomatoes and allow to reduce for a further 10 mins. — Carefully lay the fish fillets and prawns into the pan and pour over the stock, carefully shaking the pan to mix through. Cook for 5-6 mins, then add the squid and mussels, cover and cook for a further 5 mins. — Remove the lid, season with salt and pepper, scatter over the parsley and serve along with a wedge of lemon. This is traditionally served with creamy polenta, but is equally delicious with crusty bread.

Brodet

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Asparagus soup Serves 4 Prep 10 mins Cook 25 mins

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Asparagus is the essence of spring, arriving with the apple blossom and heralding sunny days to come. Its season traditionally runs from St George’s Day until the summer solstice— giving us just a couple of months to relish one of our most gloriously tasty home-grown vegetables. The sheer simplicity of this soup is its strength—no rich chicken stock or exotic garnishes required. It’s all about the pure, unadulterated taste of asparagus. Wild garlic adds a perfect, subtle hint of garlic and makes a great excuse for a walk in the woods or a trip to see Noel at Fitz Fine Foods. You could add peas (fresh or frozen) to the soup too and perhaps garnish with some crispy bits of bacon. — 200g woody asparagus stumps — 2 medium leeks — 50g butter — 1 tbsp flour — 300g tender asparagus — 50ml double cream — 10 young wild garlic leaves or a few finely chopped chives — Roughly chop the woody asparagus and simmer in 1 litre water for about half an hour. Strain off the stock and throw out the asparagus. Top up with a little water if your stock has reduced a lot—you require about 1 litre. — Meanwhile, chop the remaining asparagus roughly, perhaps keeping a few tips aside for a garnish (just blanch these for 2 mins in boiling water). — Prepare the leeks, discarding the outer layer and tough green tops. Chop finely and rinse to remove any grit. Melt the butter in a large saucepan, add the leeks with a pinch of salt and cook over a low heat until soft but not coloured. — Once the leeks are soft, stir in the flour and cook for 2 mins before slowly adding the asparagus stock, stirring all the time. — Add the chopped asparagus and cook for about 5 mins, or until just tender (it will depend a little on the thickness). Blend the soup, add the cream and balance with salt and pepper. — Slice the garlic leaves as finely as possible and garnish the soup before serving. Add the asparagus tips too if using.

Top tip Each time you cook asparagus, it’s worth freezing any woody stumps as they’ll make a great stock for risotto—or a soup such as this one.

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Asparagus with tarragon hollandaise on toast Serves 4 as a light lunch (with the toast) Prep 10 mins Cook 20 mins

There’s really nothing to top simple boiled asparagus with melted butter or a softboiled egg. I’m usually far too impatient to prepare anything more complicated with the first precious bunches of the season, but a lemony hollandaise, an emulsion of both eggs and butter, is doubly indulgent and the perfect classic sauce to accompany the spears. Tarragon (usually found in the punchier béarnaise sauce) is heaven, but do go carefully—otherwise its aniseedy tones could overpower the asparagus. — 500g asparagus or about 24 spears, depending on thickness — 3 egg yolks — 200g cold, unsalted butter, cut into 1cm cubes — Juice of ½ a lemon — 1 sprig of tarragon, leaves finely chopped. — Cayenne or black pepper — 4 slices of sourdough bread — Chop the woody ends from the asparagus—I don’t snap mine off as so many recipes suggest because you seem to lose more flesh than necessary. In fact, I love to eat asparagus with my fingers and the tough little stump is good to hang on to, so I sometimes don’t trim the stalks at all. — To make the sauce, bring a saucepan of water to the boil and then place a bowl (glass or ceramic will temper the heat better than metal) on top to create a bain-marie. Now turn the heat right down, add the egg yolks and 1 tbsp water, and season with a little cayenne or black pepper and a pinch of salt, whisking until smooth. — Add the cubes of butter three or four at a time, whisking as they melt and emulsify into the egg. Continue adding more butter until it is all absorbed and you have a thick and creamy sauce. Whisk in a little lemon juice, tarragon and seasoning to taste. You can set the sauce aside in the bain-marie to keep warm for up to 20 mins or pour it into a small thermos flask. — Now to cook the asparagus. Plunge the stalks into a large pan of boiling, salted water and cook for anything between 3-8 mins until tender, depending on the thickness of the stalks. Drain well and place on a kitchen towel for a moment, so as not to waterlog your toast. Meanwhile, get the toast on. — Serve the asparagus piled on the toast and pour over the hollandaise at the very last moment (to avoid a rather unappetising skin forming). You could add a slice of cooked ham to the toast for a more substantial meal.

Asparagus soup

11 Market Life Recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

Right: seared beef with asparagus stir-fry Below: white asparagus with manchego and marcona almonds Below right: crab and asparagus tart

12 Market Life Recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

Crab and asparagus complement each other superbly, the sweetness of the shellfish off-setting the fresh nuttiness of the spears—the two flavours seem to sing a duet of sunshine and longer days

Crab and asparagus tart Serves 4 as a main with salad, 6 as a starter Prep 45 mins (plus 1 hour for chilling the pastry) Cook 45 mins

Crab and asparagus complement each other superbly, the sweetness of the shellfish offsetting the fresh nuttiness of the spears— the two flavours seem to sing a duet of sunshine and longer days. This recipe works well with the sweet, delicate ‘sprue’—the earliest asparagus that’s thinned from the beds. It’s no thicker than a pencil but still packed with flavour. Later in the season, thicker asparagus will work well too. For the pastry: — 180g plain flour — 90g very cold butter, cut into small dice — 1 egg yolk mixed with 2 tbsp water (reserve the white for sealing the pastry) For the filling: — 300g tender asparagus, woody ends removed — 2 eggs — 1 egg yolk — 200g fresh crab meat (½ white, ½ brown meat) — 250ml double cream Equipment: — 36cm x 12cm rectangular or 30cm round, loose-bottomed metal tart tin — Heat the oven to 200C. First, make the pastry. Put the flour into a large bowl with a pinch of salt, then add the diced butter. Take a table knife or pastry scraper and continue to cut the butter into smaller pieces in the flour. — Now rub the butter into the flour using your fingertips, until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs, then add the egg yolk and water. — Use the knife or pastry scraper to cut in the liquid and then pull the mix together with your hands, trying not to overwork it, until you have a ball of pastry. Alternatively, fling the flour, salt and butter into a food processor and whizz until you have crumbs. Add the liquid and pulse the mixture until it comes together. Wrap the pastry and chill in the fridge for about 10 mins, before rolling out to fit your tin. Chill again for at least 30 mins. — Blind bake the pastry: cover it with greaseproof paper, fill it with baking beans or dried pulses and place in the oven for about 15 mins or until the pastry is almost ready. Remove the paper and beans, prick the pastry with a fork and place back in the oven for another 5-10 mins, until the really dry and crisp. Brush with a little beaten egg white and bake for an extra 2 mins. This may seem a rigmarole, but soggy pastry can be the ruination of a perfect tart. — Turn the oven down to 180C. Cut the asparagus spears to fit the tart. Plunge into boiling water for about 1 min if pencil-thin and just 2-3 mins for finger-thick spears. Drain and refresh in a bowl of cold water. — Beat the eggs and yolk with a fork, stir in the cream and white crabmeat and season with a little salt and pepper. Once the tart shell is ready, spread a layer of the brown crab meat over the base (this is where most of the crab favour is) and then pour over the crab custard. Arrange the asparagus on top of the tart and carefully place in the oven for 20-25 mins, until the filling is set and just wobbly.

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— Allow to sit for about 15 mins before removing the tin and serving warm with a simple salad and perhaps some new potatoes.

Alternative Not keen on crab? Try adding 200g smoked trout to the tart in its place. You could also omit the fish altogether, adding an extra egg yolk and a good grating of parmesan cheese to the filling

Seared beef with asparagus stir-fry Serves 4 Prep 15 mins (plus 1 hour for the steak to marinate) Cook 10 mins

White asparagus with manchego and marcona almonds Serves 4 Prep 15 mins Cook 15 mins

Both beef and asparagus are understandably extravagant ingredients, owing to the effort and resources that go into their production. Here’s the perfect way to make a little luxury go a long way, with no sense of scrimping. Marinating the beef and searing it in a separate pan ensures the perfect caramelisation. The rare pink flesh is then sliced into ribbons and added to the vegetables. Sprue or thinner stalks of asparagus are perfect for stir-frying, while thicker spears benefit from being blanched for a couple of minutes before joining the wok. The liquorice scent of Thai basil really brings something to the dish, but Mediterranean basil will be delicious too. Pescatarians could marinate thinly sliced mushrooms with the same fish sauce mix, adding them to cook in the wok rather than a separate pan. Throw them in after the vegetables and chilli.

Thick, ivory-white asparagus tends to have more savoury depth than the more readily available green variety. It’s mostly grown on the continent, where it’s both highly prized and highly priced. The white spears are the result of a lack of chlorophyll, since the stalks are grown in the dark, constantly surrounded by soil in earthed-up beds—a labour intensive process. I’ll admit that most of the white asparagus I’ve eaten in Spain has come from a tin, with a rather slimy texture—but these griddled spears still have the perfect bite. This dish is all about superb Iberian ingredients and minimal faff.

For the beef: — 1 x 350g steak, about 3-4cm thick (sirloin is perfect) — 1 tbsp vegetable oil such as rapeseed — 3 tbsp fish sauce — 1 tsp palm sugar or muscovado sugar — ½ tsp grated ginger — 1 clove of garlic, crushed For the stir-fry: — 1 clove of garlic, thinly sliced — 2cm dice of ginger, finely chopped — 3 spring onions, finely sliced — 300g asparagus, sliced into bite-sized pieces, woody ends removed — 100g mangetout, trimmed of stalks — 1-2 red chillies, finely sliced — 2 tbsp crushed roasted peanuts — Noodles or white rice, to serve — 1 lime, quartered — 12 leaves of Thai or Mediterranean basil — Remove any excess fat from the steak (setting it aside to fry with later) and place the meat on a plate. Mix together the oil, fish sauce, sugar, ginger and crushed garlic and tip over the steak. Leave the meat to marinate at room temperature, turning it over after about 30 mins. — Heat up a heavy frying pan (this is the moment to add the discarded fat if you have any, giving a bit of extra flavour to the pan). Wipe off any excess marinade from the meat, keeping it for later. Once the pan is smoking hot, sear the meat for about 3 mins on each side for rare meat. Set aside. — Heat 1 tbsp vegetable oil in a large wok and add the sliced garlic, chopped ginger and spring onions. Toss or stir for 10 secs before throwing in the asparagus, mangetout and chillies, and stir-fry for about 15 secs. Add the leftover marinade and about 4 tbsp water, then cook for 2 mins until the asparagus is just tender. Taste, adding more fish sauce or chilli if necessary. — Spoon the stir-fried vegetables over the rice or noodles. Sprinkle with ripped basil and a scattering of peanuts. Sliver the meat into ribbons and add to the dish along with the lime quarters, ready to squeeze at the table. Scatter over the basil and serve.

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— 12-15 spears of fresh white asparagus (thickness can vary, as can appetites) — 100g manchego cheese — 75g marcona almonds, fried and salted (as sold by Brindisa) — 150ml extra virgin olive oil — Juice of ½ lemon — Slice the woody ends from the asparagus spears and peel off any thick skin from the lower end of the stalks. Boil the spears in salted water for 5 mins and then drain on kitchen paper. — Heat a large griddle pan or barbecue. Place the asparagus on a tray and drizzle over 2 tbsp oil—you don’t need much, just enough to help the caramelisation process. Roll the stalks over to cover in a thin layer of oil. Lay the spears over the hot griddle in one layer (you may need to cook in a couple of batches) and turn them with tongs as they begin to colour. Cook until tender to the point of a knife. — Use a potato peeler to shave manchego in thin slithers over the asparagus, sprinkle with the almonds, the extra virgin olive oil, a splash of lemon juice and a little salt and pepper.

Alternative Thinner, more readily available green asparagus would work well in this recipe too; tender spears can go straight on the griddle with no need for pre-cooking. Pecorino or parmesan cheese could be substituted for the manchego

Spring salad Serves 4 as a main salad, 6 as a starter Prep 30 mins Cooking 40 mins

So many locally-grown treats arrive in late spring: asparagus, new potatoes, radishes, wild garlic, baby broad beans, pea shoots. This salad embraces the lot and makes the perfect light lunch dish. Purple asparagus is particularly sweet and so works well both raw or cooked. The spears lose their distinctive colour as you cook them—another reason to leave some raw. Sweeter tips are carefully shaved into long curls with a potato peeler while the thicker stalks are blanched quickly, giving them quite a different texture and flavour. The salad can be served cold, but warm potatoes make all the other flavours ping. For a stunning vegetarian take, just drop the prosciutto and add 1 tbsp light miso to the potatoes along with the oil, giving it savoury depth, then throw in some toasted hazelnuts for texture. — 100g prosciutto, sliced finely — 100ml extra virgin olive oil — 500g new potatoes, halved if larger than bite-sized — A sprig of mint — 300g purple asparagus — 200g baby broad beans — 8 quail’s eggs — 75g pea shoots — A small handful of wild garlic — 12 radishes, finely sliced — Juice of 1 lemon — Heat the oven to 170C. Place the prosciutto on a lightly oiled baking tray and cook in the oven for 10 mins, then leave to cool and crisp up. The ham should become really brittle as it cools—if not, just return to the oven for a few mins. Break into shards (if making ahead, store in an airtight container). — Boil the potatoes in salted water with the sprig of mint until tender, then drain. Toss with the extra virgin olive oil. Meanwhile, prepare the asparagus. Remove any woody tips, chop off about 5cm of the stalk ready for steaming or boiling and sliver the top of the spears into ribbons using a potato peeler. — If you have a steamer basket, you can steam the asparagus stalks over the potatoes for about 5 mins until tender, otherwise you can cook them in boiling water for about 3 mins. Drain and plunge into cold water to refresh and keep their colour. — Steam or blanch the broad beans until just tender and pop them from their skins. Cook the quail’s eggs in boiling water for 2½ mins, tip them into cold water, then peel. Wash and spin the pea shoots and garlic leaves and place in a large salad bowl, keeping back a few leaves to top the dish. — Add the sliced radishes, the cooked asparagus, asparagus ribbons, the broad beans, the warm potatoes and the lemon juice. Turn everything together, taking care not to break up the potatoes. Season with a little salt (don’t forget that the ham will be salty) and plenty of black pepper. — Slice the eggs in half and scatter over the salad along with the shards of crispy prosciutto and the last few leaves to garnish.

Spring salad

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Razor clams with dulse, guanciale and cider Serves 4 (as a starter)

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— 12 razor clams — 4 rashers of guanciale — 1 shallot, finely chopped — 150ml dry cider — 2 tbsp double cream — 75g butter — 1 tbsp fresh dulse seaweed, chopped — Micro celery, to garnish — Remove the meat from the razor clams— it should come away with the gentlest of prompting—and trim them so you only have the white flesh. Keep the shells for the presentation of the finished dish. — Cook the guanciale in a dry frying pan until crisp. Drain on kitchen paper then chop. Add the shallot to the hot rendered fat. Cook until golden, then add the cider. Bring to the boil and add the clams. Cover with a lid and cook for 1 min. — Remove the clam meat and chop. Boil the remaining juices to reduce by half, then add the cream. Whisk in the butter a little at a time, until incorporated. Check the seasoning, then mix in the clam meat. — Spoon the clam meat into the shells. Dot the guanciale and dulse on top and garnish with micro celery.

Alternative Nori or wakame could be used here instead of the dulse. Pancetta would be a good substitute for the guanciale.

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Baked Irish whiskey custard, honeycomb crumble wafers and candied apple Above: Crusted mutton chops with braised black chickpeas and parsley root Left: Crispy polenta and creamed leeks with purple sprouting broccoli and Corleggy

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During the potato famine, we were sent shipments of cornmeal by Native Americans in solidarity for our plight. We have a farl called an ‘Indian farl’ and a bread called ‘Indian bread’, both of which stem from that gift

Crispy polenta and creamed leeks with purple sprouting broccoli and Corleggy Serves 4

Crusted mutton chops with braised black chickpeas and parsley root Serves 4

I love polenta in every shape or form. It’s one of my favourite ingredients. What most people don’t realise is that polenta—cornmeal—has a particular place in Irish culinary history. During the potato famine, we were sent shipments of cornmeal by Native Americans in solidarity for our plight. We have a farl called an ‘Indian farl’ and a bread called ‘Indian bread’, both of which stem from that gift. My granny can remember eating cornmeal gruel. I tried to get her to like polenta, but her memories of cornmeal were so bad that she wouldn’t try it.

I’m so glad mutton’s having a resurgence—when an animal gets older, it develops more flavour, and sometimes you want a bit of oomph from your meat, a bit of personality. I love this combination of tender meat and crunchy crumbs, with the lovely yeasty tang of sourdough and the nuttiness of brown butter.

— For the polenta and creamed leeks: — 250g polenta — 100g grated parmesan — 25g butter — 1 large leek, split in half, washed and chopped — 25ml double cream — A handful of chopped parsley For the purple sprouting broccoli: — 1kg purple sprouting broccoli, woody bottoms trimmed — 75ml olive oil — 2 shallots, peeled and finely sliced — 1 garlic clove, minced — 25ml balsamic vinegar — ½ tsp Dijon mustard — 50g Corleggy cheese — Bring 1 litre of water to the boil. Add ½ tsp salt, then slowly add the polenta, whisking all the time. Lower the heat and cook for about 40 mins or until smooth and coming away from the side of the pan. Mix in the parmesan well. — Heat the butter in a pan and add the leek. Season with salt and cook until soft. Add the cream and cook for a further 2 mins. Add the parsley and check the seasoning. — Brush a 1Ib loaf tin with oil. Place half the polenta in the bottom of the loaf tin. Add the leeks and then top with the remaining polenta. Smooth off the top and chill for 2 hours. Remove from the tin. Cut into eight slices. Heat 2 tbsp olive oil in a non-stick pan until very hot and add half the polenta slices. Cook until golden and crisp on all sides. Keep warm in the oven while you repeat with the remaining polenta. — Blanch the broccoli in boiling salted water for 3 mins then drain well and toss in 2 tbsp of the olive oil. Heat a grill pan until smoking hot and add the broccoli. Cook for 1 min, add the shallots, turn the broccoli and cook for 1 min more. Whisk the garlic, vinegar and mustard together. Whisk in the rest of the oil and then check the seasoning. Place the broccoli on a platter and spoon over the dressing. Grate the cheese and scatter on top. Serve alongside the polenta slices.

Alternative A good parmesan could be used instead of the Corleggy, as could Bermondsey Hard Pressed from Kappacassein. When purple sprouting broccoli is out of season, cavalo nero would work—just blanch for a minute, dry, toss in oil and grill. Grilled treviso or radicchio would also work.

19 Market Life Recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

— For the braised black chickpeas: — 75g pancetta, diced — 1 onion, finely chopped — 1 stick of celery, diced — 1 clove of garlic, minced — 250g black chickpeas, soaked overnight — 250ml passata — 750ml vegetable stock — 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar For the parsley root: — 4 medium parsley roots — A few sprigs of thyme — 1 lemon — 50g smoked almonds, chopped — A handful of lovage, chopped — 50ml olive oil For the mutton chops: — 2 medium onions — 1 sprig of rosemary — 8 mutton loin chops — 75g butter, chopped — 75g sourdough breadcrumbs — 2 tbsp finely chopped fresh rosemary — 1 tbsp finely chopped parsley — Heat the oven to 180C. Cook the pancetta in a large casserole pot until crisp and golden. Remove from the pot and set aside. Add 1 tbsp olive oil to the rendered fat with the onion, celery and garlic. Cook gently until soft. Drain the chickpeas and add to the pot with the passata and stock. Cover with a lid and place in the oven. Bake for 2 hours or until the chickpeas are soft. Add the balsamic and check the seasoning. — Peel the parsley roots. Cut into 3cm pieces and place in a pan of water. Season the water with salt and add the thyme sprigs. To prevent the roots from discolouring, halve the lemon and squeeze out the juice from one of the halfs into the pan, then add the lemon shell. Cook until the parsley root is tender—about 20 mins. Drain and dry on kitchen paper. — Squeeze the remaining lemon juice into a bowl and add the almonds, lovage and oil. Season to taste and toss in the parsley root. — Now prepare the chops. Peel and cut the onions into quarters. Place on a sheet of foil and drizzle over 2 tbsp olive oil. Season with salt and add the rosemary sprig. Wrap in the foil and place in the oven at 180C for about 30 mins, or until soft. Blend to a puree, then check the seasoning. — Season the chops with salt and place in a frying pan, fat-side down. Cook gently until the fat is crisp and has rendered. Seal the chops off and then transfer to a roasting tin. Cook for about 10 mins at 180C, then remove and leave to rest. — Heat the butter in a pan until the foam starts to subside and the mixture turns brown and smells nutty. Add the crumbs and finely chopped rosemary and cook until crispy. Add the parsley. — When the chops are rested, spread some of the onion puree onto the top and press on the crumbs. Serve with the parsley root and chickpeas.

Beef shin and barley broth with treacle farls and whipped spring onion butter Serves 4

Baked Irish whiskey custard, honeycomb crumble wafers and candied apple Serves 6

I was brought up on this broth. You’d be playing in the snow in a skirt and some wee socks, and there was probably a leak in your shoe, and you’d come home with hypothermia. This soup probably saved my life—it was like a culinary defibrillator.

For the crumble topping: — 50g plain flour — 40g butter, room temperature — 50g caster sugar

For the broth: — 750g bone-in shin of beef — 2 medium onions, peeled and chopped — 100g pearl barley, soaked for 2 hours — 2 sticks of celery, chopped (plus a handful of the dark leaves) — 1 carrot, peeled and chopped — 1 small leek, washed and chopped — A handful of chopped parsley For the whipped butter and buttermilk: — 500ml double cream — Whole milk — 1 tsp cider vinegar — 4 spring onions, finely chopped For the farls: — 225g plain flour — 1½ tsp baking soda — ½ tsp salt — 100g wholemeal flour — 25g porridge oats — 1 tbsp treacle — 325ml buttermilk — Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a saucepan until smoking hot. Season the beef shin with sea salt and seal on both sides for 2 mins. Add the onions and cover with cold water. Bring to a simmer and cook for 30 mins. Drain the barley and add to the pan. Simmer for 45 mins, then add the chopped celery sticks and carrot. Cook for 30 mins, then add the leek and cook for 20 mins. — Remove the beef. Let it rest for 10 mins, then shred with a fork and add it back to the broth. Add more water if required. Finely chop the leaves of the celery and add to the broth with the parsley. Check the seasoning. — To make the butter, place the cream in a bowl, add a pinch of salt and whisk with an electric beater until the mixture forms thick yellow curd—as you do so, try to cover the bowl with a tea towel, as it splashes a bit when the butter separates from the liquid (the buttermilk). When the mixture has formed a good clump of butter, lift it from the buttermilk and place in a sieve over a bowl. — Poor the buttermilk into a measuring jug, together with any drained liquid from the butter, then add enough whole milk to bring it up to 325ml. Add the cider vinegar and stir well. — Place the drained butter in a bowl and whisk until pale. Add the spring onions and whisk for a further 1 min. — To make the farls, mix the plain flour, baking soda, salt, wholemeal flour and oats in a bowl. Make a well in the centre. Whisk the treacle with the buttermilk and pour into the well. Mix to a soft dough. — Turn onto a floured surface and knead gently into a ball. Flatten to a 2cm-thick round and cut into four farls. Leave for 10 mins. Heat a heavy-based frying pan over a medium heat. Add the farls to the pan with a gap between them. Cook for 4 mins each side then stack on their sides to cook through. Cool on a wire rack for a few minutes. Split the farls in half, spread over the butter and serve alongside the broth. 20 Market Life Recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

For the honeycomb: — 100g caster sugar — 1 tbsp liquid glucose — 1 tbsp honey — 1 dessertspoon baking soda For the baked whiskey custard: — 500ml double cream — 50g butter — 4 tbsp Irish whiskey — 1 tsp vanilla extract — 9 egg yolks — 75g caster sugar For the cider candied apples: — 150g caster sugar — 200ml semi-sweet cider — 2 large cooking apples, peeled, cored and chopped Equipment: — 6 x 250ml metal moulds — First, butter the moulds. Heat the oven to 180C and line a baking tray with parchment paper. — Rub the flour, butter and sugar to coarse crumbs. Spoon onto the tray and bake for 15 mins, until golden and crisp. When cool, crumble with your fingers to separate. — For the honeycomb, place the sugar, glucose, honey and 2 tbsp water in a pan and cook to a golden amber liquid. Add the baking soda— carefully, as it will fizz up—and pour onto the parchment paper. Allow to cool completely. Either whizz to a powder in a food processor or bash in a bag with a rolling pin. — Take a sheet of parchment and sprinkle half of the honeycomb powder evenly over the top. Cook in the preheated oven for 2 mins then sprinkle half of the crumble on top. Return to the oven for 1 min, or until it bubbles up slightly. Remove from the oven and cool. Break into shards. Repeat with the remaining honeycomb and crumble. — Now make the custard. Set the oven to 150C. Boil the cream for 1 min. Add the butter, whiskey and vanilla and remove from the heat. Whisk the egg yolks with the sugar, pour over the hot cream mixture and stir. Pour into the moulds and bake for about 12-15 mins or until just set on top but still a bit wobbly. Cool and then chill. Remove from the moulds. — For the candied apples, sprinkle the sugar in a large frying pan over a high heat. Cook to a golden liquid caramel. Add the cider and cook to a thick syrup. Add the apples and cook for about 5 mins or until soft. — To assemble, place the custard on a plate, top with some of the apple and place a shard of the honeycomb on top. Serve immediately.

Alternative I’ve made this using calvados or pear brandy instead of the whiskey. Pear works well in place of the apple, but with perry instead of cider. Forced rhubarb, gently poached in a sugar syrup with cardamom and orange juice is also good.

Beef shin and barley broth with treacle farls and whipped spring onion butter

21 Market Life Recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

Mooli thepla Serves 8 Prep 20 mins Cook 15 mins

Urvesh Parvais Inspired by early summer vegetables — Mooli thepla — Ringan bhartha — Griddled courgettes, spicy chickpeas — Green beans, matter paneer — Samphire, girolles, garlic, plums — Spiced new potatoes Market Life Issue 38 Images: Kim Lightbody

22 24 24 24 26 26

— 400g mooli or radishes, grated — 250g wholewheat flour or atta flour (fine-milled chapatti flour) — 1 tsp salt — ½ tsp ajwain (carom seeds) — 1½ tsp sesame seeds (natural, not the bleached white ones) — 1½ tsp ground coriander — ½ tsp turmeric — 2 tbsp sunflower oil — 3 tbsp yogurt (or whey reserved from paneer making) — 1 bird’s eye chilli, finely chopped — 3 tbsp fresh coriander leaves or mooli / radish leaves, chopped — Wash, peel and grate the mooli or radishes, and set aside. — Place the flour, salt and dry spices in a large bowl and mix thoroughly—I like to use my hands for this. Add the grated mooli / radish, oil, yogurt, chilli and coriander or mooli / radish leaves and continue mixing to create a medium-firm dough. Depending on how wet your grated mooli is, you may need to add a little water. Don’t over-kneed, as this will encourage the dough to become too wet. — It’s a good idea to have your rolling pin, work surface and pan ready so that you can start cooking straight away. If the dough sits around too long it becomes wetter as more liquid releases from the mooli, making it harder to roll—hence the need for a slightly firm dough to begin with. — Divide the dough into 6-8 equal-sized balls. Dust each ball with dry flour and roll out to make a 2-3mm thick disc. If you are making them to go with the ringan bhartha, roll them a little thicker—around 4mm. — Heat a tava (Indian hot plate) or frying pan to a medium heat. Cook the first thepla until golden spots start to appear on the underside, then flip and cook the other side. — Spread a little sunflower oil, butter or clarified butter on both sides of the thepla and continue to cook, while applying a little pressure from a spatula. Turn occasionally and cook until both sides are a lovely golden colour. Repeat with the rest of the thepla. Serve hot.

Top tip Rather than buying ground cumin and coriander for these recipes, take whole seeds, dry roast them in a pan and then grind them yourself just before you use them.

22 Market Life Recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

23 Market Life Recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

Ringan bhartha Serves 8 Prep 20 mins Cook 15 mins

Griddled courgettes, spicy chickpeas Serves 4-6 Prep 20 mins (plus 6 hours soaking) Cook 15 mins

Green beans, matter paneer Serves 8 Prep 30 mins Cook 15 mins

This is a favourite at my restaurant—the plates always come back completely clean! It works perfectly with some of the mooli thepla to mop it up with.

For the chickpeas: — 250g dried chickpeas, soaked overnight — 2 tbsp sunflower oil — 4 x 2cm lengths of cinnamon — 2 bird’s eye chillies, sliced lengthways from stalk to tip — 8 curry leaves — 1 tsp cumin seeds — ½ medium onion, finely diced — 3cm fresh turmeric, very finely sliced

For the paneer: — 2 litres full fat milk — Juice of 2 lemons — Zest of 1 lemon

— 3 medium aubergines — 2 x 2cm lengths of cinnamon — 1 black cardamom pod, slightly split — 1 green cardamom pod, slightly split — ½ star anise — 4 cloves — ½ medium onion, finely diced — 3 cloves of garlic, finely chopped — 6g fresh ginger, finely chopped — 20-25g hot green chilli, finely chopped — 1 tsp ground coriander — ½ tsp ground cumin — 1 tsp turmeric — 3½ tsp tomato puree — 2 tbsp coriander leaves — 1½ tsp garam masala — 2 tsp lemon juice — Use a naked flame, barbecue or hot grill to blister the skin of the aubergines. Using tongs, keep each vegetable turning. The skin will char, giving a lovely smoky flavour, but don’t overdo it: the flesh should still have some firmness to it when you’re finished. — Place the charred aubergines in a bowl until cool enough to peel. Do not allow to cool completely, as the skin is easier to peel while still warm. — Chop the aubergine flesh into 5-8mm dice and set aside. Reserve any of the juices released while peeling and chopping. — Next, temper the spices. Make sure you have all your spices measured out and close to hand, as the high heat means there’s a risk of burning the oil and the spices. Place a thick-bottomed pan over a medium-high flame, then pour in 4 tbsp sunflower oil and continue to heat. To tell if the oil is hot enough, I drop in a mustard seed—if it pops immediately, the oil is ready. — Add the cinnamon, black and green cardamom, star anise and cloves. The cloves may pop, so keep the pan lid to hand—you’ll need to use it as a shield! The cloves should swell up and float on the surface, indicating the spices are ready, but don’t worry if this doesn’t happen—just make sure you don’t let the spices turn black. — Now add your onions—they will quickly cool the oil, ensuring the spices don’t burn. Turn down the heat to medium-low and simmer until the onions have browned. — Add the garlic, ginger and nearly all the chopped chilli; the strength of chillies can vary, so it’s best to keep some aside and add more if you need it later. Allow this to cook for a couple of mins, add the ground coriander, cumin, turmeric and 1 tsp salt, then simmer until the aroma of the spices is released. — Add the aubergine flesh, tomato puree, chopped coriander and half the garam masala. Mix thoroughly and cook on a low heat for 7-8 mins, until the heat has permeated through the aubergine and allowed the flavours to intermingle. — Have a taste. If it needs more bite, add the rest of the garam masala and chilli a little at a time until you are happy with the balance of flavours. Add the lemon juice just before serving.

24 Market Life Recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

For the courgettes: — 4 large courgettes of different colours, sliced lengthways into 4-5mm slices — 1 tbsp cumin seeds — 6 cloves — 2 tbsp olive oil — 3 tbsp golden raisins — A handful of fresh coriander leaves — A handful of micro mustard shoots — Rinse the chickpeas and soak for 6 hours in enough water to allow for them to double in size. Rinse once, cover with lightly salted water, then boil for 1-1½ hours, until soft enough to squeeze between your thumb and index finger—do allow them to overcook and become a mush. Drain and spread them out on a clean cloth to dry for 15 mins or so. — Place the sunflower oil into a large pan, over a medium heat. Add the cinnamon, then once you see little bubbles starting to appear around the bark, add the sliced chilli and curry leaves (these may splutter as they go in the pan, so move away quickly or have a lid ready as a shield). Once the chilli skin has turned white, remove the chillies and the curry leaves and reserve for later. — Add the cumin seeds, allow them to sizzle for 10-15 seconds, then add the onions and half the turmeric. Give it a stir, then add the chickpeas. Cook for about 8-10 mins on a medium heat, moving the mixture gently. — Add ½ tsp salt and the rest of the turmeric, taste and adjust the seasoning to your liking. Remove from the pan and set aside. — To make the courgettes, dry roast the cumin seeds, then grind in a pestle with the cloves. Add this ground spice to the olive oil, then use a pastry brush to anoint the courgette slices on both sides. — Place the courgette slices in a griddle pan or on a barbecue and cook until you get those lovely char lines. — Place some of the courgette slices onto a serving plate, sprinkle with a few sea salt flakes and some of the spicy chickpeas, then scatter over some raisins, fresh coriander and mustard shoots. Continue to layer the plate with courgette and chickpeas. Top with the fried curry leaves and chillies.

For the tomatoes: — 4 vines of cherry tomatoes — A handful of cashew nuts — 3 dates, chopped For the beans: — 200g fine beans — 2 tbsp sesame oil — ½ tsp arjwain (carom seeds) — 1 tsp sesame seeds — 1cm fresh turmeric, finely sliced — ¼ tsp salt — ½ tsp ground cumin — ½ tsp ground coriander — Start by making the paneer. Pour the milk into a heavy-bottomed pan and warm over a low heat. Once you see a very fine foam appearing on the surface, take off the heat and set aside for 5 mins. — Add the lemon juice to the milk and watch the alchemy of cheesemaking happen. The milk should split into curds and cloudy yellow-green whey. Using a muslin cloth or cheese cloth, strain the curds. Gently squeeze out some of the whey by cupping your hands around the muslin. Don’t squeeze all the water out—this paneer should be soft and textured, not hard. Make sure you keep the whey—it can be used for making the mooli thepla. — Add most of the lemon zest (keep a little aside to sprinkle over the dish at the end) and ½ tsp salt to the paneer and gently turn this through, then leave for 5 mins to let the salt melt and the flavours meld. Taste, add more salt if needed, then set aside in the cloth. Paneer can be kept in the fridge like cottage cheese, but it is particularly good while still warm and fresh. — Place the cherry tomatoes on a baking tray, spray with a little olive oil and place in the oven at 180C to roast for 10-15 mins. Remove from the oven once the skins break and some of the water has evaporated, concentrating their flavour. — Lightly coat the cashews in sesame oil and toast them in a large pan or wok. They cook very quickly, so keep moving them to prevent dark scorch spots from appearing. Once golden brown, remove and allow to cool. — Heat 2 tbsp sesame oil in the same pan on a medium-high heat. Add the arjwain and allow to fizz. Once settled, add the sesame seeds. Quickly add the rest of the ingredients except the beans and reduce the heat to low. After about 20 seconds, add the beans and mix well. At this stage you can cook the beans very lightly so they retain their bite, or else cook them for longer with the lid on until the texture is softer. I like them crunchy but not raw. — Now bring all the elements together. Cut the tomatoes off the vine with some scissors and spread them out across a plate. Add some green beans, crumble over some paneer and scatter over some chopped dates and cashews. Repeat until all the ingredients are on the plate. At the very end, pour over any of the tomato juices that have collected in their tray, and sprinkle with the remaining lemon zest. Taste, and season with sea salt flakes.

Samphire, girolles, garlic, plums Above left: Green beans, matter paneer Left: Griddled courgettes, spicy chickpeas

25 Market Life Recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

Samphire, girolles, garlic, plums Serves 8 Prep 30 mins Cook 15 mins

Spiced new potatoes Serves 6 Prep 20 mins Cook 10 mins

I love samphire, blanched super-quickly, tossed together with girolles browned in garlicky butter. With crunchy almonds, a hint of chilli, caramelised fruit and a little orange blossom honey, the result is some lovely textures and flavours.

Crushed new potatoes tossed in butter, cumin, dried chilli, curry leaf and fresh turmeric: this simple dish looks great and tastes just as good, and will disappear off the table before you can say, “Come and get it...”

— 100g samphire — 25-30g unsalted butter — 4 firm plums, halved and stone removed — 100g whole almonds — A pinch of mild chilli flakes — 100g girolles — 1 clove of garlic, finely sliced — A drizzle of light orange blossom honey — Bring a large pan of water to a rolling boil, turn off the heat and blanch the samphire for 20-30 seconds before draining, then set aside. If you like the samphire to be crunchy, miss out this step altogether. — Place a quarter of the butter in a non-stick frying pan and fry the halved plums over a medium heat, cut-side down, until the sugars in the fruit caramelise just enough to turn golden. Remove and set aside, face up on a plate. — Heat the rest of the butter in the pan and toast the almonds—keep moving them so they cook evenly. Remove, leaving the butter in the pan. Set the nuts aside to cool and become crunchy. Add a light sprinkle of chilli flakes to the almonds. — In the same pan, add the girolles and brown them in the butter. Add the sliced garlic and cook for a couple of minutes, until the garlic no longer tastes raw. Pop in the samphire, turn off the heat and toss together. — Place half the plums on a serving plate. Pour half the samphire and girolle mix over the top, then the almonds and a drizzle of honey. Repeat with the rest of the plums, samphire and mushrooms. Add 1 tsp honey to the cooled butter left in the pan and mix together. Finish the layering with a final light drizzle of this honey and butter mixture. — Give it a taste. The samphire is inherently salty, so you may not need to season, but sprinkle with sea salt flakes if required.

Alternative Change the plums for apricots or peaches or nectarines as they come into season.

26 Market Life Recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

— 500g white new potatoes — 100g blue new potatoes — 50g salted butter — 1 tsp cumin seeds — 12 curry leaves — ½ tsp ground cumin — 1 tsp ground coriander — 2cm dried chilli — 3g fresh turmeric, finely chopped — 3g fresh ginger, finely chopped — A handful of fresh coriander leaves — A handful of micro mustard shoots — A pinch of garam masala — Greek yoghurt (optional) — Boil the different coloured potatoes separately in salted water until they are firm but can be broken with the back of a large spoon. Drain the potatoes then crush them gently, preserving their shape but allowing for cracks to appear— these will hold all the lovely flavour. — Cut the butter into small pieces and melt in a pan over a medium heat. Add the dried chilli. Once this starts to brown, throw in the cumin seeds and curry leaves, and allow both to sizzle gently in the foaming butter—it should smell lovely. — Add the ground cumin, ground coriander, turmeric and ginger, plus a little sea salt, cook for 30 seconds, then remove from the heat. Add the still-warm crushed potatoes and the coriander leaves and gently mix. Taste, then add more salt if required. — Serve with micro mustard shoots, a sprinkle of garam masala and a dollop of yogurt.

Top tip This can be made in advance and then warmed through in the oven. Make sure you baste the potato with the flavoured butter once reheated.

This simple dish looks great and tastes just as good, and will disappear off the table before you can say, “Come and get it...”

Spiced new potatoes

27 Market Life Recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

Market Life is a Borough Market publication All material copyright to Borough Market (Southwark) boroughmarket.org.uk Published by LSC Publishing 13.2.1 The Leather Market Weston Street London SE1 3ER lscpublishing.com Editor: Mark Riddaway mark@lscpublishing.com Deputy editor: Viel Richardson viel@lscpublishing.com Deputy editor: Clare Finney clare@lscpublishing.com Managing editor: Ellie Costigan ellie@lscpublishing.com Design: Em-Project Limited mike@em-project.com Editorial consultant: Claire Ford

28 Market Life Recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk