Market Life: 50 summer recipes

Market Life

50 summer recipes

The Borough Market magazine boroughmarket.org.uk

New potato, coconut and shallots Meera Sodha

Vegetarian Summer recipes 1. Avocado, radish, orange and pea shoot salad with honey vinaigrette 2. Chilli cornbread with tomato salsa 3. Fresh pasta with courgette, ricotta and mint 4. Courgettini, pistachio and wheat berry salad 5. Confit courgettes with burrata 6. New potato, coconut and shallots 7. Gazpacho 8. Griddled courgettes, spicy chickpeas 9. Fig and blue cheese salad 10. Simple flat breads with yoghurt, mint and sumac 11. Quick-pickled radish, samphire and parsley salad 12. Green beans, matter paneer

Fish Summer recipes 6 6 8 8 8 11 11 12 12 12 14 14

Meat Summer recipes 25. Duck breast with furikake rice and kombu broth 26. Jollof spiced guinea fowl 27. Lemongrass chicken wing ramen with pickled radishes and torched baby fennel 28. Mar i muntanya 29. Piedmontese veal carpaccio with pecorino and salted grissini 30. Lamb, courgette, goat’s cheese and olive crumb 31. Pork and plum meatballs with cauliflower puree and roasted greens 32. Pot-roasted loin of pork with fig and walnut stuffing 33. Roast chicken with rosemary salt, extra virgin olive oil and figs 34. Shredded chicken with crunchy vegetables, yuzu dressing and pecans 35. Spiced lamb burgers 36. Suya goat kebabs 37. Spiced rack of lamb with tomato and caper salsa 38. Turmeric spiced chicken with white kimchi and chilli green beans

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Market Life Summer recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

13. Curried monkfish and clams 14. Barbecued barrel of hake with rosemary and garlic 15. Empedrat 16. Fillet of red mullet with shaved summer salad 17. Grilled scallops with hazelnut herb butter and pickled cherries 18. Octopus in red wine vinegar 19. Poached sea trout with mint and watercress sauce 20. Prawn ‘sizzle’ with bay and fennel 21. Red mullet pappardelle 22. Salmon pollichattu 23. Charred octopus, piquillo pepper and butter bean salad 24. Scallops in sherry butter sauce

19 19 21 21 23 23 23 24 24 24 26 26

Sweet Summer recipes 31 31 31 33 33 35 35 37 37 37 38 38 40 40

39. Cucumber and gin sorbet 40. C hocolate, cherry and raspberry tart 41. G ooseberry granita with shortbread thins and elderflower cream 42. Honey and rosemary lemonade 43.Summer fruit and rosewater lollies 44. P each, raspberry and pistachio mess jars 45. Plum and yoghurt fool 46. Raspberry drop pancakes 47. Redcurrant and hazelnut meringue cake 48. Strawberry and fennel seed kulfi 49. Strawberry gatlova 50. S ummer pudding

45 45 47 47 47 49 49 51 51 51 52 52

Chegworth Valley Below left: Ewa at Bianca Mora

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Market Life Summer recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

Market Life: 50 summer recipes Borough Market 8 Southwark Street London SE1 1TL Join the conversation: Twitter @boroughmarket Instagram @boroughmarket facebook.com/boroughmarket To ensure that a weekly fix of articles, recipes and Borough Market event information lands in your email inbox, sign up to our newsletter: boroughmarket.org.uk/newsletter Contributors Zoe Adjonyoh, Dhruv Baker, Rosie Birkett, Jenny Chandler, Felicity Cloake, Angela Clutton, Ursula Ferrigno, Roopa Gulati, Lesley Holdship, Ching-He Huang, James Lowe, Kay Plunkett-Hogge, Juliet Sear, Kathy Slack, Ed Smith, Meera Sodha, Urvesh Parvais, Rachel Phipps, Nicole Pisani, Tony Rodd Photography Helen Cathcart, Issy Croker, Orlando Gili, John Holdship, Kim Lightbody, Christopher L Proctor, Kathy Slack, Regula Ysewijn

There’s nothing quite like a food market in the summertime. Markets are special places at any time of the year, but when the sun is shining, the days are long and the traders aren’t hidden away under layers of thermal protection, there are few better places to be.

Nature certainly plays its part. Week by week, a slowly shifting cast of fresh produce rolls onto the stalls, providing an array of bright colours and heady scents that fits perfectly with the warmth and bright light: berries and stone fruits, tomatoes and courgettes, sea trout and red mullet, soft cheeses and summer truffles. Quite frankly, there is no better time to shop at Borough Market: mostly outdoors, possibly with a cold drink or gelato in hand, surrounded by chromatic displays and accosted by beautiful aromas.

To help you make the most of the season’s exceptional produce, we’ve put together this collection of 50 recipes collected from Market Life over the past few summers. They were brought to us by a stellar rollcall of chefs: James Lowe, Zoe Adjonyoh, Rosie Birkett, Ed Smith, Meera Sodha and many, many more. Some are very simple, some a little more involved. All of them start with the rich potential of a shopping trip to Borough Market on a lovely summer’s day, and end with something special on a plate.

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Vegetarian Summer recipes

Where to buy In the Market or online Extra virgin olive oil The Olive Oil Co Cheddar cheese Trethowan’s Dairy Tomatoes The Tomato Stall Parmesan Bianca Mora Courgettes Paul Wheeler Fresh Supplies Sun dried tomatoes De Calabria Burrata The Parma Ham and Mozzarella Stand Sherry vinegar Fitz Fine Foods New potatoes Ted’s Veg Cinnamon sticks Spice Mountain Blue cheese Une Normande a Londres Natural yoghurt Kappacasein

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Market Life Summer recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

Right: Turnips Below: Francesco and Giuseppe at De Calabria

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Avocado, radish, orange and pea shoot salad with honey vinaigrette Rachel Phipps

Chilli cornbread with tomato salsa Kathy Slack

If you’re planning on making this for a picnic, keep the dressing in a separate jar and take a sharp knife to cube the avocado on location, adding both to the salad just before serving.

Serves 6-8

— 100g mixed green salad leaves — 75g pea shoots — 2 large ripe avocados, cubed — 2 naval oranges, segmented — Large handful radishes, thinly sliced — 2 tsp Dijon mustard — 1 tbsp red wine vinegar — 2 tbsp light extra virgin olive oil — 1 tsp runny honey — Sea salt — Freshly ground black pepper — Assemble the salad either on small individual plates or in a large bowl, covering the bottom with green leaves and sprinkling the pea shoots and the other fruit and vegetables over the top.

— The proportions for mixing this slightly sweetened, honeyed vinaigrette are to my personal tastes, but you can adjust them as necessary, before seasoning to taste with a little salt and pepper and drizzling over the salad just before serving.

Alternative To turn this salad into the star of the show rather than a side dish, fresh white crab meat would make a wonderful addition.

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Market Life Summer recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

Serves 8 (as a side or snack)

— Olive oil, for greasing — 15g butter — 8 spring onions, chopped — 200g sweetcorn kernels — 325g quick cook polenta — 250ml full fat milk — 4 eggs, beaten — 100g plain flour — 1 tsp baking powder — 175g cheddar cheese, grated, plus extra for topping — 1 green chilli, finely chopped — ¼ tsp chipotle chilli flakes For the salsa: — 500g tomatoes, a mix of varieties if possible — 1 tsp finely chopped green chilli — ½ tsp finely chopped red chilli — ½ red onion, finely chopped — 3 tbsp finely chopped coriander — 1 garlic clove, crushed — 1 tbsp olive oil — ½ lime, juiced — A dash of Tabasco — Heat the oven to 200C. Grease a 22cm cake tin or skillet with olive oil and line the base with a circle of greaseproof paper.

— Melt the butter in a frying pan over a medium heat. Once the butter is foaming, add the spring onions and sweat them in the butter for 2 mins. Add the sweetcorn and a pinch of salt and cook for another 2 mins. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.

— In a large bowl, mix together the polenta, milk, eggs, flour and baking powder. Add the grated cheese, green chilli, chilli flakes, the onion and sweetcorn mixture, a big pinch of salt and stir again.

— Spoon the mix into the tin and bake for 20 mins. Sprinkle a handful more grated cheese on top, then return to the oven for another 10 mins or until the bread is spongy to touch.

— While the cornbread bakes, make the salsa.

De-seed and chop the tomatoes. Tip them into a bowl then mix in the other ingredients and a pinch of salt. Leave for a few mins to allow the flavours to mingle, then check the seasoning and serve.

Chilli cornbread with tomato salsa

Avocado, radish, orange and pea shoot salad with honey vinaigrette

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Fresh pasta with courgette, ricotta and mint Ed Smith

Courgettini, pistachio and wheat berry salad Jenny Chandler

Confit courgettes with burrata Felicity Cloake

This recipe makes the most of La Tua Pasta’s fresh lasagne sheets, as well as the courgettes so prevalent at the Market at the moment.

Lemon zest, fresh herbs and cooling ricotta continue the seasonal theme.

A perfect summer barbecue salad that works as well with fish or halloumi as it does with meat. It keeps brilliantly for a lunchbox the next day, too.

Courgettes Italian-style, cooked gently in plenty of good olive oil until meltingly tender, these are lovely simply tossed through pasta, but for a special occasion, pair them with fresh, creamy burrata straight from Puglia.

Serves 4

— 700-750g small-medium courgettes (likely 4, a mix of yellow and green) — 1 garlic clove, very finely sliced — Zest of 1 lemon, juice of ½ lemon — 35g parmesan, finely grated — Leaves from 4 sprigs of mint, finely shredded — 18 basil leaves, 10 finely shredded, the remainder as a garnish — 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus more to garnish — 250g fresh lasagne sheets (2 per person) — 250g ricotta — Bring a large pan of well-salted water to the boil. Meanwhile, prepare all the ingredients: cut the courgettes into 1cm dice, slice the garlic, zest and juice the lemon, grate the parmesan and shred the herbs.

— Place a wide saucepan over a low heat. Add 2 tbsp olive oil, then the courgettes and lemon zest. Heat for 1 min, then add the garlic. Continue to heat the courgettes for 2-3 mins more, stirring occasionally and just warming them through, rather than charring or stewing them.

— The water should arrive at the boil while the courgettes are cooking. Drop the lasagne sheets in—2 per person—and cook for 3 mins.

— When the pasta has been cooking for 1 min, transfer a ladle of water from the pasta pot into the courgettes and add the parmesan.

Gently stir the water and cheese through the courgettes, until the cheese is fully melted and has emulsified into the sauce—this should take 30 secs to 1 min. Remove the saucepan from the heat and add the lemon juice, shredded mint and basil and a good few twists of black pepper. Mix well. Drain the pasta through a sieve.

— Pile a large spoonful of courgettes (and juices) in the middle of each plate and top with 1 tsp ricotta. Drape a lasagne sheet over the courgettes—crinkle and fold, if you can.

Spoon more courgettes over those sheets and another 1-2 tsp ricotta, then lay the second lasagne sheet on each pile, finishing with the remaining courgettes, juices, ricotta and the whole basil leaves. Drizzle with a quality, grassy extra virgin olive oil and serve.

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Market Life Summer recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

Serves 4-6

— 200g wheat berries (whole wheat grains) — 100g sun dried tomatoes, roughly chopped — 1 tbsp capers — 50g green olives, roughly chopped — 1 lemon, zest and juice — 100ml extra virgin olive oil — 2 courgettes, preferably 1 yellow, 1 green — 1 clove of garlic, whole but crushed — ½ red onion, finely sliced — 50g pistachio nuts — A good handful of mint leaves, ripped — Plenty of black pepper and salt to taste — Simmer the wheat berries in plenty of lightly salted water for about 45 mins, or until they are tender (soaking for a couple of hours beforehand will speed up the process and is said to aid digestion too).

— Drain the wheat berries and pour them into a large bowl. Add the tomatoes, capers, olives, half of the lemon zest and juice and abouthalf of the oil. Give everything a good stir and leave the flavours to marry while you prepare the courgettes.

— Spiralise the courgettes, or, if you haven’t fallen for that trend just yet, slice into ribbons using a vegetable peeler.

— Warm the remaining oil in a large frying pan and throw in the garlic and red onion. Once the garlic gilds and smells divine, remove it from the pan (it will have infused the oil—you can always use it in another dish). Add the courgettes and toss them in the hot oil over the heat for a matter of secs until they are covered in the oil.

— Add the courgettes, onions and oil to the wheat berry salad, sprinkle over the pistachios, mint and season carefully (keeping in mind that the tomatoes, capers and olives are quite salty) with salt, pepper and the remaining lemon juice and zest.

Serve while warm, if possible.

Alternative Substitute the wheat berries with pearled barley, freekeh, bulghur wheat or couscous.

Serves 4

— 4 medium courgettes, finely sliced — 5 tbsp extra virgin olive oil — 2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped — A handful of basil leaves — 1 unwaxed lemon — 4 smallish burrata — Heat 4 tbsp oil in a large shallow pan with a lid over a low heat, and when warm, add the garlic. Fry for a minute then add the courgettes. Salt lightly, cover and cook for 45 mins to an hour depending on the size of your pan, until very tender. Turn them over a few times during cooking so they soften evenly.

— Roughly tear the basil leaves and stir into the courgettes, along with the zest of the lemon.

Add a squeeze of the juice and season to taste.

— Divide among four plates. Top each with a burrata, and trickle over a little of the remaining olive oil.

Alternative This recipe will work with any summer squash, and would also be delicious with good buffalo mozzarella.

Courgettini, pistachio and wheat berry salad, finished with halloumi

Confit courgettes with burrata

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Gazpacho

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Gazpacho Angela Clutton

New potato, coconut and shallots Meera Sodha

The best gazpachos have several characteristics in common: they are made with seasonal tomatoes that are packed with flavour, they are served super-cold, and they use a really good sherry vinegar, which helps draw the flavour from the tomatoes, cucumber and pepper. Serve with the sherry vinegar bottle on the table too, so that people can add that all-important finishing touch of flavour and balance. I like my gazpacho quite thick, so that is how this comes—thin it down with water, if you prefer. There is no need to skin the tomatoes as they will be blended and strained before serving.

Coconut, shallots and curry leaves are the leading ingredients in south India and together they make a great team. My favourite part of this recipe is adding the coconut milk and reducing it so that it becomes a sticky glaze which coats each and every potato. This can be eaten hot or cold.

New potato, coconut and shallots

Serves 4–6

— 1kg very ripe tomatoes, roughly chopped — 1 cucumber, peeled and chopped — 1 green pepper, deseeded and chopped — 80g slightly stale white or brown bread, torn into pieces — 3 cloves of garlic, chopped — 3 tbsp sherry vinegar, plus extra to taste — 125ml extra virgin olive oil For the garnish (optional): — Chopped hard-boiled egg — Chopped spring onion — Chopped cucumber — Chopped mint — Croutons — Sherry vinegar

Paul at Paul Wheeler Fresh Supplies

— Place the tomatoes in a large bowl with the cucumber, green pepper, bread pieces, garlic, sherry vinegar and half of the oil.

Add a good pinch of salt, mix to combine, cover and chill for 2 hours.

— Transfer to a blender and blend it all together, adding the rest of the olive oil. Season and strain into a bowl through a fine sieve, pushing with a spoon to get as much through as you can. Taste for seasoning— remember that chilling dulls the seasoning slightly—and take a look at the resulting soup. If it is too thick for your liking, thin it down with some water.

— Chill until needed, then serve in small bowls or cups with a drizzle of sherry vinegar on top and your choice of garnishes, arranged on the table for each person to help themselves to.

Alternative Rather than sherry vinegar, try finishing with a good balsamic, tomato balsamic, maple vinegar or cucumber vinegar.

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Serves 4-6

— 1kg new potatoes, washed — 2 tbsp coconut oil — 1 tsp mustard seeds — 1 tsp cumin seeds — 10 curry leaves — 5 big banana shallots, finely sliced — 3cm ginger, peeled and grated — 3 cloves of garlic, crushed — 100ml coconut milk — Place the potatoes in a pan of water and bring to the boil. Simmer for around 10 mins or until the potatoes are tender. Drain and leave to one side to cool. When cool enough to handle, halve the potatoes.

— In a large frying pan, heat the oil over a medium to high heat and when hot add the mustard seeds, cumin seeds and curry leaves. When the seeds start to wriggle add the shallots and cook until they turn golden then add the garlic and ginger. Cook for another 3 mins then add the potatoes and ¾ tsp salt. Turn up the heat and fry the potatoes hard for a few minutes until they brown a little. Add the coconut milk and keep folding the mixture until the coconut milk evaporates to a glaze, then take off the heat.

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Griddled courgettes, spicy chickpeas Urvesh Parvais

Fig and blue cheese salad Ed Smith

Quick-pickled radish, samphire and parsley salad Angela Clutton

Serves 4-6

Serves 4

For the chickpeas: — 250g dried chickpeas, soaked overnight — 2 tbsp sunflower oil — 4 x 2cm lengths of cinnamon — 2 bird’s eye chillies, sliced lengthways from stalk to tip — 8 curry leaves — 1 tsp cumin seeds — ½ medium onion, finely diced — 3cm fresh turmeric, very finely sliced

— 3 medium oranges — 1 head of radicchio — 1 fennel bulb — 120g blue cheese — 2 tbsp runny honey — 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil — 4 figs

Every time I make this salad, I take a moment to reflect on its beauty—pretty as a picture, with all its pinks and greens. The radishes are quick-pickled in a mix of light vinegar (such as Brindisa’s moscatel, or Fitz Fine Foods’ champagne), sugar and water, which is heated until the sugar dissolves. This gives a light pickling to the radishes, which need just an hour in the liquid before the samphire and parsley are added. Don’t add samphire and parsley too soon before serving, however, or they’ll lose some of their vibrancy. I sometimes use sea purslane instead of samphire and both are pretty salty, which is why there is no need for any additional salt in the recipe. The samphire here is raw—if you prefer, steam it lightly for 2 mins and refresh in cold water before following the recipe. The pickling liquor can be mixed with sparkling water for a delicious, prettily pink drink.

For the courgettes: — 4 large courgettes of different colours, sliced lengthways into 4-5mm slices — 1 tbsp cumin seeds — 6 cloves — 2 tbsp olive oil — 3 tbsp golden raisins — A handful of fresh coriander leaves — A handful of micro mustard shoots — Rinse the chickpeas and soak for 6 hours in enough water to allow for them to double in size. Rinse once, cover with lightly salted water, then boil for 1-1½ hours, until soft enough to squeeze between your thumb and index finger—do allow them to overcook and become a mush. Drain and spread them out on a clean cloth to dry for 15 mins or so.

— Place the sunflower oil into a large pan, over a medium heat. Add the cinnamon, then once you see little bubbles starting to appear around the bark, add the sliced chilli and curry leaves (these may splutter as they go in the pan, so move away quickly or have a lid ready as a shield). Once the chilli skin has turned white, remove the chillies and the curry leaves and reserve for later.

— Add the cumin seeds, allow them to sizzle for 10-15 seconds, then add the onions and half the turmeric. Give it a stir, then add the chickpeas. Cook for about 8-10 mins on a medium heat, moving the mixture gently.

— Add ½ tsp salt and the rest of the turmeric, taste and adjust the seasoning to your liking.

Remove from the pan and set aside.

— To make the courgettes, dry roast the cumin seeds, then grind in a pestle with the cloves.

Add this ground spice to the olive oil, then use a pastry brush to anoint the courgette slices on both sides.

— Place the courgette slices in a griddle pan or on a barbecue and cook until you get those lovely char lines.

— Place some of the courgette slices onto a serving plate, sprinkle with a few sea salt flakes and some of the spicy chickpeas, then scatter over some raisins, fresh coriander and mustard shoots. Continue to layer the plate with courgette and chickpeas. Top with the fried curry leaves and chillies.

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— Using a sharp knife, cut the top and bottom off the oranges so they stand flat, then cut the peel off, working from top to bottom following the curve of the fruit. Discard the peel. Slice each orange in half, half again, remove the centre core/pith, and finally cut the quarters in half one more time. Put the segments in a large salad bowl and scrape the juice into another.

— Cut the radicchio into quarters and separate the leaves. Roughly chop the largest leaves in half again. Add to the oranges. Slice the fennel in half from top to bottom. Remove the stalk and discard. Slice very thinly, ideally using a mandolin. Add to the radicchio and orange.

— Make the dressing by adding the honey, oil and a pinch of salt and pepper to the orange juice. Whisk or stir well with a fork so that the juice, honey and oil combine. Slice the blue cheese into thin shards.

— When you’re ready to eat, dress the salad and put onto four plates. Sprinkle with cheese.

Cut each fig in half from top to bottom. Put a little oil in a non-stick, heavy bottomed frying pan and heat on the highest flame for 1-2 mins until extremely hot. Add the figs, cut side face down, and cook for 1 min to 90 secs—until the face is blackened, but stopping short of cooking the fig all the way through.

— Carefully remove from the pan, cut each half in half exposing the uncooked flesh, and put four quarters on top of each salad. Lovely job.

Serves 3–4

— 180g breakfast radishes — 100ml champagne vinegar or moscatel vinegar — 2 tbsp caster sugar — 2 broad strips of orange zest — 2 sprigs of dill — A handful of samphire (approx 90g) — 3 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley — Top and tail the radishes, slice them thinly and put into a bowl. Put the vinegar into a pan with the sugar and 50ml water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until the sugar has dissolved.

— Pour the hot liquid over the radishes. They should be just covered, but if they’re not add more vinegar and water in a 2:1 ratio.

Add the orange zest and dill to the bowl.

Stir, then cover and leave for 1 hour at room temperature to cool and for the flavours to meld together.

— Remove the orange strips and the dill. Strain away the liquid (or keep it—see introduction), then toss the radishes with the samphire and chopped parsley in a large bowl and serve.

Alternative Japanese rice vinegar is excellent for all quick pickling

Griddled courgettes, spicy chickpeas

Fig and blue cheese salad

Quick-pickled radish, samphire and parsley salad

Urvesh Parvais

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Simple flat breads with yoghurt, mint and sumac Jenny Chandler

Green beans, matter paneer Urvesh Parvais

Flat breads are a cinch to make and fun to get everyone involved with. You can add chopped herbs such as rosemary or sage to the dough or sprinkle with olive oil and sesame seeds while they are still warm.

I love the challenge of opening up the fridge at home and finding it almost empty—it’s something I embrace and enjoy. By being restricted, I feel more liberated, in a sense.

This is one of those recipes where I took just a handful of simple ingredients from Borough Market and built a dish around them.

Makes 6 — 200g plain flour — 120ml warm water — 2 tbsp olive oil — 1 tsp salt — 200ml natural yoghurt — 1 tbsp sumac — Plenty of fresh mint, finely chopped — Tip the flour, water, oil and salt into a large bowl and mix together, initially with a spoon and then with your hands.

— Work the dough on a floured surface for about 3 or 4 mins until silky smooth and then set it aside. Cover with cling film if you are preparing a few hours ahead.

— Now the choice is yours: heat up a heavy frying pan or fire up the barbie. Once you’re almost ready to cook and eat, divide the dough into 6 equal balls and roll out on a floured surface until just a couple of mm thick. Layer up between tea towels if you’re transporting into the garden.

— Cook for about 1 min on each side, until the dough begins to bubble and brown. Serve straight away or wrap in a tea towel for a few mins to keep the bread soft.

— Mix the yoghurt, mint and sumac together, and serve with the bread.

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Serves 8 For the paneer: — 2 litres full fat milk — Juice of 2 lemons — Zest of 1 lemon For the tomatoes: — 4 vines of cherry tomatoes — A handful of cashew nuts — 3 dates, chopped

the beans and reduce the heat to low. After about 20 seconds, add the beans and mix well. At this stage you can cook the beans very lightly so they retain their bite, or else cook them for longer with the lid on until the texture is softer. I like them crunchy but not raw.

— Now bring all the elements together. Cut the tomatoes off the vine with some scissors and spread them out across a plate. Add some green beans, crumble over some paneer and scatter over some chopped dates and cashews. Repeat until all the ingredients are on the plate. At the very end, pour over any of the tomato juices that have collected in their tray, and sprinkle with the remaining lemon zest. Taste, and season with sea salt flakes.

For the beans: — 200g fine beans — 2 tbsp sesame oil — ½ tsp arjwain (carom seeds) — 1 tsp sesame seeds — 1cm fresh turmeric, finely sliced — ¼ tsp salt — ½ tsp ground cumin — ½ tsp ground coriander — Start by making the paneer. Pour the milk into a heavy-bottomed pan and warm over a low heat. Once you see a very fine foam appearing on the surface, take off the heat and set aside for 5 mins.

— Add the lemon juice to the milk and watch the alchemy of cheesemaking happen. The milk should split into curds and cloudy yellow-green whey. Using a muslin cloth or cheese cloth, strain the curds. Gently squeeze out some of the whey by cupping your hands around the muslin. Don’t squeeze all the water out—this paneer should be soft and textured, not hard.

Make sure you keep the whey—it can be used for making the mooli thepla.

— Add most of the lemon zest (keep a little aside to sprinkle over the dish at the end) and ½ tsp salt to the paneer and gently turn this through, then leave for 5 mins to let the salt melt and the flavours meld. Taste, add more salt if needed, then set aside in the cloth.

Paneer can be kept in the fridge like cottage cheese, but it is particularly good while still warm and fresh.

— Place the cherry tomatoes on a baking tray, spray with a little olive oil and place in the oven at 180C to roast for 10-15 mins. Remove from the oven once the skins break and some of the water has evaporated, concentrating their flavour.

—L ightly coat the cashews in sesame oil and toast them in a large pan or wok. They cook very quickly, so keep moving them to prevent dark scorch spots from appearing. Once golden brown, remove and allow to cool.

— Heat 2 tbsp sesame oil in the same pan on a medium-high heat. Add the arjwain and allow to fizz. Once settled, add the sesame seeds.

Quickly add the rest of the ingredients except

Shuk at Ted’s Veg

Green beans, matter paneer

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Fish Summer recipes

Where to buy In the Market or online Barrel of hake Furness Fish Markets Salt cod Brindisa Pitted black olives Borough Olives Creme fraiche Neal’s Yard Dairy Vermouth Borough Wines Scallops Shellseekers Fish & Game White wine Cartwright Brothers Capers The Turkish Deli Crusty bread Olivier’s Bakery Saffron Oliveology Pappardelle La Tua Pasta

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Darren from Shellseekers Fish & Game Above right: Furness Fish Markets

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Curried monkfish and clams

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Curried monkfish and clams Ed Smith

Barbecued barrel of hake with rosemary and garlic Dhruv Baker

This curried monkfish sits in a fragrantlyspiced coconut milk and clam juice broth.

Spice Mountain has a wide range of really interesting pre-mixed curry blends, inspired by the flavours of Sri Lanka, Kerala, Mauritius and more. I’ve suggested using the Thai green curry blend in the recipe below, but any blend based on a coastal region would work well.

— To serve, pile a ladle of rice into the middle of each bowl or plate. Lay chard leaves and stems over the rice. Add the monkfish portions and ladle the clams and curried sauce on top and around, with a wedge of lime on the side.

— 250g palourde clams — 200g rainbow chard — 240g basmati or jasmine rice — A thumb-sized piece of ginger, cut to matchsticks — 1 large banana shallot, finely sliced — 2 cloves of garlic, finely sliced — 2 tsp Thai green curry powder — 200ml coconut milk — 2 tsp golden caster sugar — 450-500g monkfish fillet — 1 lime

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Serves 4

— 750g ‘barrel’ of hake (the centre cut taken from a whole fish), skin on — 3 sprigs rosemary — 1 lemon, cut into eighths — 1 bulb of garlic, cut in half horizontally — Season the hake well and fill the cavity with the rosemary, lemon and garlic. Drizzle with 1 tbsp olive oil and wrap loosely with baking parchment and then foil.

— Bake in a preheated oven at 200C or on a kettle barbecue over indirect heat for approximately 45-60 mins. Uncover and finish directly over the barbecue embers (or in the oven) for the final 10 mins.

— Carefully lift the fish off the bone and serve drizzled with more olive oil and a salad of green summer leaves

Serves 4

— Purge the clams by placing them in a bowl and covering with cold water. Leave for 5 mins, drain the gritty cloudy water away and repeat until clear. Discard any clams that remain open if tapped.

— Cut the stems off the chard at the point those stems meet the leaves. Cut the stems into 2cm lengths, and halve any leaves that are bigger than your hand.

— Rinse the rice, then place in a saucepan of rapidly boiling salted water. Cook for 2 mins fewer than the packet instructions, drain and leave to steam.

— Once the rice is on, start cooking the monkfish. Place a heavy-bottomed sauté pan (for which you have a lid) on a medium heat. Add 1 tbsp sunflower oil, then the ginger, shallot and a pinch of salt. Sweat and soften over a low-medium heat for 4-5 mins, stirring occasionally. Add the garlic and cook for 1 min more, before measuring the spice powder into the pan and cooking for 1 min, stirring continuously. Pour in the coconut milk, fill the tin with water, then pour that into the pan. Add the sugar and simmer for 5 mins.

— Cut the monkfish into four equally weighted portions (probably around 4cm deep). Add the clams to the broth and place the lid on top of the pan. After 2 mins, add the monkfish pieces to the bubbling broth, return the lid and simmer for 2-3 mins more, shuffling the pan once or twice, until the clams are all open and the monkfish has turned from translucent to pearlescent white. Remove the pan from the heat, squeeze in the juice of half the lime and cut the other half into quarters.

— While the monkfish and clams are cooking, place another large frying pan or sauté pan over a medium-high heat with a knob of butter or 1 tbsp coconut oil or light olive oil.

When warm, add the chard stems, fry for 2 mins, then add the chard leaves and stir occasionally until wilted—this should take around 4 mins.

Magali and James at Spice Mountain

Barbecued barrel of hake with rosemary and garlic

Fillet of red mullet with shaved summer salad

Empedrat

20 Market Life Summer recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

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Empedrat (Catalan salt cod and white bean salad) Jenny Chandler

Fillet of red mullet with shaved summer salad Lesley Holdship

Begin preparing this dish 24 hours in advance. The salt cod is eaten raw in this recipe, which could seem a little scary to the uninitiated, but just think of bacalao as the ham of the sea, and suddenly it seems more appealing.

This dish works equally well as a starter or main course. Serve with delicious chilled wine or rhubarb cordial.

Serves 4

— 400g high quality Spanish salt cod — 250g cooked haricot or Santa Pau beans — 1 small green pepper, finely diced — ½ sweet Spanish onion, finely diced — 3 ripe tomatoes, finely diced — 50g pitted black olives — 2 tbsp roughly chopped flat leaf parsley — 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil — 2 tbsp red wine vinegar — Salt and pepper to taste — 3 eggs, boiled for about 7 mins until set but still bright — 24 hours before serving soak the salt cod in a bowl of cold water and place in the fridge.

Change the water about every 6 hours or at least 4 times.

— Remove any skin or bones from the cod and cut into thin strips. Take a large bowl and carefully mix together the cod, beans, pepper, onion, tomato, olives and parsley.

— Balance the salad with oil, vinegar, salt and pepper. You can refrigerate the salad for a few hours at this point if necessary. Chop up and carefully add the egg at the last minute (or it will look a mess).

— Pile the salad onto individual plates using a ring mold—it may seem a bit cheffy, but is handy to give a bit of height to the dish.

Furness Fish Markets

21 Market Life Summer recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

Serves 2

— 1 tsp fennel seeds — 100g creme fraiche — 50ml water — 5-6 sorrel leaves — Sea salt and black pepper — 2 golden beetroots — 1 fennel bulb — 1 pink grapefruit — A handful of fennel fronds — A knob of butter — 500g red mullet, filleted — Sea salt and pepper — Start by making the dressing. Warm a small pan and add the fennel seeds. Heat until they start to jump around, then slide them into a pestle and mortar and crush them a little to release the oils.

— Make a chiffonade of the sorrel: stack the leaves neatly on top of each other and roll them up lengthways, very tightly. Slice across the roll as thinly as you can, making delicate strips. Use an extremely sharp knife so as not to bruise the leaves.

— Mix together the creme fraiche, sorrel and half the toasted seeds, along with the water, then season really well. Set aside.

— Peel the beetroot and slice very thinly. Use a mandolin if you are feeling brave, or a very sharp knife if not. Place the beetroot in a large bowl.

— Trim any pieces of fennel that need it, then slice in half lengthways, cutting out the core if you like. Cut across the fennel very thinly to make pretty little semi-circles. Add to the beetroot.

— Segment the grapefruit by firstly paring away the thick skin and pith. Hold the fruit over the bowl containing the beetroot and fennel, and cut in between the pithy membranes, allowing the beautiful segments to escape into the bowl below. Squeeze out the left behind pith. Toss together with the fennel fronds and set aside while you cook the mullet.

— Rub a little oil on each fillet, season generously, then sprinkle with the remaining fennel seeds. Heat the grill to the highest setting—or indeed a barbecue if time permits—and cook the mullet skin-side up for around 6-7 mins. The heat of the baking tray will cook the flesh, so there is no need to turn it over.

If you are barbecuing, cook for around 3-4 mins each side — Serve the fish on piles of salad, with a dollop of creme fraiche.

Grilled scallops with hazelnut herb butter and pickled cherries

Octopus in red wine vinegar

Poached sea trout with mint and watercress sauce

Prawn ‘sizzle’ with bay and fennel

22 Market Life Summer recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

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Grilled scallops with hazelnut herb butter and pickled cherries Rosie Birkett

Octopus in red wine vinegar Angela Clutton

Poached sea trout with mint and watercress sauce Felicity Cloake

Serves 4 as a starter

This recipe is based on a classic Greek octopus salad. Tender, meaty octopus is nestled upon salad leaves to serve as part of a mezze feast, or with saffron-roasted potatoes and mayonnaise.

With its blushing coral flesh and superlative flavour, the sea trout is closer to the rare wild salmon than it is to its river-dwelling relatives. It is only available for the few short months a year when it returns to our rivers to spawn. Keep things simple by pairing it with a delicate, and very British, watercress sauce.

For the pickled cherries: — 150g white wine vinegar — 150ml water — 1 star anise — 50g caster sugar — A sprig of thyme — 3 black peppercorns — 1 tsp salt — 150g cherries, halved, pitted and sliced For the butter: — 30g raw shelled hazelnuts — 100g unsalted butter — 8g chervil — 8g tarragon — 1 shallot, finely chopped — 2 tsp lemon juice For the scallops: — 8 scallops, cleaned — Rapeseed oil — Picked chervil, to garnish — To make the pickled cherries, put the vinegar, water, star anise, peppercorns, sugar and salt in a non-reactive pan with the thyme and bring to the boil, stirring. When the sugar has dissolved add the cherries and simmer for 2 mins. Turn off the heat and pour into a sterilised jar to cool.

— To make the herb butter, preheat the oven to 180C. Place the hazelnuts in a roasting tray and roast for 6-8 mins, until they smell nutty.

Pour into a clean tea towel and rub them to remove the skins.

— Place the nuts in a food processor and blitz lightly to release their oils before adding the butter, herbs, shallot, lemon juice, a large pinch of salt and a grind of pepper. Blitz until you have a greenflecked butter.

— Drain a couple of tablespoons of the pickled cherries onto kitchen roll, then chop.

— Preheat the grill to high. Brush the scallops on both sides with a little rapeseed oil, and season with salt. Place in their shells or on a roasting tray, and grill for 1-2 mins, until they’re starting to colour. Turn them over and dot with the butter, then return to the grill for 1-2 mins more, until the butter has melted.

— Scatter the cherries and picked chervil over the scallops, then serve in the shells. I’d serve some crusty bread alongside for moppage.

Serves 3–4 — 1kg octopus, cleaned by the fishmonger — 100ml vermouth — 150ml white wine vinegar — Juice of ½ orange — 2 bay leaves — 100ml olive oil — 100ml red wine vinegar — ½ tsp dried oregano — 1 clove of garlic, crushed — 3 handfuls of salad leaves of your choice — Blanch the octopus to tenderise it: bring a large pan of water to the boil, lower the octopus into it for 1 min, then lift out and refresh in cold water. Repeat three times, with fresh water each time. You will see the tentacles curl up with each immersion in the hot water, then relax in the cold. Clean the pan thoroughly if you want to use it for the rest of the recipe, as there may be scum on the sides.

— Put the vermouth, white wine vinegar, orange juice and bay leaves into a large pan. Bring to a simmer, then add the octopus. Cover and gently cook for 45 mins–1 hour. It is ready when tender to the prick of a fork.

— Remove the octopus from the poaching liquid, retaining 50ml liquid and discarding the rest. If you would like to give your octopus a bit of ‘charred’ colour, then quickly put it under the grill, or return it to the now-empty pan it cooked in for 30 secs each side.

Afterwards, charred or not, cut the tentacles off and put them in a bowl.

— Mix together the olive oil, red wine vinegar, oregano, garlic and the reserved 50ml poaching liquid. Season and pour this over the octopus tentacles—they should be just about submerged. Cover and chill for 6 hours or overnight, turning occasionally.

— When you are ready to serve, remove the octopus from the fridge and allow to come to room temperature. Arrange the salad leaves on a serving plate, then lift the octopus pieces out of the marinade and arrange on top of the leaves. Drizzle over 3 tbsp or so of the marinade and serve.

Alternative The white wine vinegar used for poaching can be any kind of basic vinegar but for the marinade, go for an interesting, bright—but not too heavy—red wine vinegar such as the cabernetsauvignon at Brindisa

23 Market Life Summer recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

Serves 4 — 1 small onion, halved — 1 tbsp peppercorns — 1 bay leaf — 3 sprigs of thyme — 100ml white wine — 1 tbsp salt — 4 sea trout fillets, pin boned For the sauce: — A medium bunch of mint — 100g watercress — 2 tbsp capers, rinsed if packed in salt — 200ml creme fraiche — Zest of 1 unwaxed lemon — Whole nutmeg — Put all the trout ingredients in a saucepan large enough to hold the fish and just enough water to cover by about 2cm. Lift the fish out and set aside, then bring the pan to the boil and simmer for 15 mins. Add the fish and cook for 5 mins, then turn off the heat and leave for another 3-5 mins, depending on thickness, until it comes apart in flakes. Lift out and plate.

— While the fish is cooking, make the sauce.

Pick the mint leaves and roughly chop the watercress, discarding any particularly tough stalks. Put in a food processor with the capers and whizz until roughly chopped.

— Tip into a small pan and add the creme fraiche. Heat until warm, then add the zest of the lemon and a grating of nutmeg. Season to taste. Serve on top of the fish.

Alternative This would also work well with salmon.

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Prawn ‘sizzle’ with bay and fennel Rosie Birkett

Red mullet pappardelle Rosie Birkett

Salmon pollichattu Meera Sodha

Do you remember when restaurants used to serve cast iron dishes of sizzling ingredients to the table? I might be showing my age, but when I was growing up, this was definitely a thing. My parents’ favourite pub at the time, The Dirty Habit in Kent, used to do an amazing dish of prawns, drowning in olive oil, garlic and chilli, served still sizzling, with a crusty baguette to dip in the juices. My dad loved it so much that he worked meticulously to recreate it at home, and it became his signature ‘sizzle’. This is a version with bay and fennel, which add an extra aromatic dimension. The key is to do what the late Peter Birkett did, and have all your ingredients prepped beside the stove and the prawns coming up to room temperature 10 mins before you cook them. Once that’s done and the potatoes are cooked, this is ready in minutes—perfect for lazy summer lunching.

This is a pasta supper or lunch for a blissful summer’s day. It’s low maintenance and high impact, and celebrates the intense, nutty flavour of one of my favourite fish— the beautifully iridescent, pink-scaled red mullet. It takes the heady flavours I associate with balmy Mediterranean summers— fennel, tomato, rosemary, lemon and olive oil—and roasts them together in the oven before tossing fat, glossy ribbons of parpadelle egg pasta through it all with a lick of sumptuous saffron. It’s sunshine on your plate, whatever the weather.

This parcel of fish coated in a tangy marinade of tamarind, shallots and tomatoes hails from Kerala and is one of the best ways to eat salmon I know of.

Serves 2

— 250g small new potatoes, skin on — A large handful of samphire — 1 tbsp butter — Juice of ½ lemon — 100ml extra virgin olive oil — 6 fresh bay leaves — ½ bulb fennel, finely sliced — ½ red chilli, finely sliced — Zest of ½ lemon — 2 cloves of garlic, minced — 200g raw, shell-on king prawns — 50ml white wine — Crusty bread, to serve — Lemon wedges, to serve — Cook your potatoes in plenty of boiling salted water, until tender—about 12-15 mins.

My test for this is to pierce one with the tip of a sharp knife, and if it slips off the blade easily, they are done. Once tender, add the samphire into the water and blanch for a minute or so, until softened. Drain off the water and throw in a knob of butter. Season with salt, pepper and lemon juice and keep warm while you make the sizzle.

— Heat the olive oil in a large non-stick frying pan or, better still, a cast iron skillet, over a medium to high heat. Add the bay, fennel, chilli, lemon zest and garlic and cook for a couple of minutes to infuse the oil with all those lovely flavours.

— Add in the prawns and cook for a couple of minutes on each side, until the shells have changed colour and are starting to caramelise, then deglaze with the wine, cooking for about 1 min, until it’s evaporated.

— Drizzle over a little more extra virgin olive oil and serve with the potatoes, samphire and crusty bread for mopping up those juices.

24 Market Life Summer recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

Serves 2

— 2 whole fresh red mullet, scaled, gutted and cleaned by the fishmonger — A pinch of good quality saffron — ½ bulb of fennel, finely sliced — 100g small tomatoes, halved — 1 red chilli, finely chopped — 1 glass of dry white wine — 2 sprigs of rosemary — ½ lemon, sliced — 200g fresh pappardelle — 1 tbsp toasted pine nuts — 1 tbsp fresh dill — Heat the oven to 200C. Bring the fish out of the fridge at least 30 mins before cooking to come up to room temperature. Place the pinch of saffron in a small bowl and cover with 100ml water.

— In a roasting tray, toss the fennel with the tomatoes and red chilli. Season well and drizzle over a little olive oil to coat. Pour over the white wine and roast for 12 mins.

— Stuff both fish cavities with rosemary and lemon slices, then season. Place on top of the fennel and cover with foil. Roast for 12 mins more, then remove the foil and cook for 3 mins.

— While that’s happening, bring a large pot of salted water to the boil and cook the pappardelle until al dente. Drain, reserving a little slosh of the pasta water.

— Once the fish is cooked, remove it from the roasting tray and set aside to rest. Place the roasting tray over the hob on a medium heat and pour in the saffron and its juice, and the pasta cooking water. Add the pasta and toasted pine nuts, and toss well over the heat to combine all the flavours.

— Remove the fins from the fish and pull the fillets off the bones, breaking them up into bite-sized pieces but keeping the skin intact (it has so much flavour)—be careful not to include any bones. Toss lightly with the pasta.

Add the dill and toss that through too. Divide between warm plates and serve with freshly ground black pepper.

Serves 4-6

— 1 packet of frozen banana leaves — Kitchen string — 3 tbsp coconut oil — 20 curry leaves — 6 big banana shallots, thinly sliced — 5 cloves of garlic, crushed — 3cm ginger, peeled and grated — 4 green finger chillies, finely chopped (3 if you’d prefer less heat) — 400 juicy vine tomatoes, chopped — 2 tsp tamarind paste — ½ tsp turmeric — ¾ tsp salt — 6 salmon fillets, skinned — Defrost the banana leaves and rub them down with a clean wet cloth. Soak the string in water until needed.

— Heat the coconut oil in a large lidded frying pan over a medium heat and when hot add the curry leaves. Leave them to crisp for 1 min then add the shallots. Cook for around 10 mins until browning and golden, then add the garlic, ginger and chillies. Cook for 3 mins until the raw smell disappears then add the tomatoes, tamarind, turmeric and salt and cook until the tomatoes soften and become a little jammy. Take off the heat.

— Lay the banana leaf down and a fillet of salmon on top. Place 2 tbsp of the marinade on the salmon and wrap the banana leaf around it like a present, then secure with string.

— To cook, heat up a grill pan or a barbecue until hot and grill for 4 mins on each side for a thin fillet (up to 2cm) and 5 mins on each side for a thicker one (up to 3cm).

Alternative If you’re not able to find frozen banana leaves, foil works just as well.

Red mullet pappardelle

25 Market Life Summer recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

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Charred octopus, piquillo pepper and butter bean salad Jenny Chandler

Scallops in sherry butter sauce Angela Clutton

A salad inspired by Spanish flavours. Get everything ready in advance, leaving just the charring of the octopus until the last minute for a show stopper. Long, slow cooking will ensure tender octopus.

In this recipe, the buttery sauce and fatty scallops are gorgeously tempered by the sharpness of the sherry vinegar and its sweet, rich notes. A few barely dressed rocket leaves are all else that is needed.

Serves 6

— About 1-1½kg cleaned octopus — 1-2 red chillies, sliced in half — 4 cloves of garlic, whole but crushed — 1 large bunch of continental parsley — ½ tsp salt — 150ml extra virgin olive oil — 1 x 660g jar of butter beans, drained — 6 piquillo peppers (about 100g), sliced — 2 lemons, cut into segments — Freezing the octopus will help tenderise the flesh, but be sure that it is completely thawed before cooking. Cut the tentacles off the octopus just below the eyes and then cut the head away from just above. Throw away the eye section and push your little finger through the centre of the tentacles to remove the little thorn-like beak.

— Take a small saucepan and pack in the octopus’ head and tentacles with the chillies, garlic, parsley stalks (keeping the leaves for the salad), salt and the olive oil. The octopus should be almost covered by oil. Cover and place the pan on a really gentle heat, just a low simmer, for anything between 30 mins and 1 hour, until the flesh is tender when prodded with a fork.

— Meanwhile, pour the beans onto a large serving dish and sprinkle with the sliced peppers and parsley leaves.

— Once the octopus is ready, strain the fabulous hot juices over the bean salad. Taste and adjust with salt and lemon juice if required.

You can refrigerate both the salad and octopus now, but be sure to eat it at room temperature.

— Just before serving, heat up a ridged griddle or use a barbecue to sear the octopus for a couple of secs until it begins to char. Place on top of the salad with the lemon wedges and dig in.

Alternative This salad would work wonderfully well with squid or cuttlefish, which will take just seconds to cook from raw on the griddle or barbie. Sear the translucent tubes and tentacles until they turn opaque.

26 Market Life Summer recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

Serves 4

— 16 shelled scallops — 140g butter — 75ml sherry vinegar — Pat dry and season the scallops. Heat 2 tbsp olive oil in a large frying pan, then sit the scallops in it. Turn them after 2 mins, when they should have taken on a gentle brown colour. Give them another 1 min, then add half the butter. Let it melt and, as it does, use it to baste the scallops; you will need to gently tilt the pan.

— The butter will quickly turn a nutty brown, and at this point pour over 50ml vinegar. Cook for another 30 secs, then lift the scallops out.

Turn up the heat, add the remaining butter and vinegar and allow to bubble, stirring all the time, to reduce to a lovely sauce. Pour over the scallops and serve with a grinding of pepper over the top.

Alternative In place of the sherry vinegar, try a traditional English malt vinegar

Charred octopus, piquillo pepper and butter bean salad

Scallops in sherry butter sauce

27 Market Life Summer recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

Meat Summer recipes

Where to buy In the Market or online Chicken Wyndham House Poultry Rose veal Wild Beef Anchovy fillets Gastronomica Goat’s cheese Mons Cheesemongers Rack of lamb Northfield Farm Loin of pork Ginger Pig Figs Turnips Za’atar Arabica

28 Market Life Summer recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

Leo and Dom at Northfield Farm Above left: Jozsef at Ginger Pig

29 Market Life Summer recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

Lemongrass chicken wing ramen with pickled radishes and torched baby fennel

30 Market Life Summer recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

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Duck breast with furikake rice and kombu broth Nicole Pisani

Jollof spiced guinea fowl Zoe Adjonyoh

Lemongrass chicken wing ramen with pickled radishes and torched baby fennel Nicole Pisani

Furikake is one of my favourite seasonings, it’s made with black and white sesame seeds and nori seaweed flakes.

I use my jollof spice mix to make a west African inspired version of roast guinea fowl—perfect for enlivening your Sunday roast. The jollof seasoning mix makes about 170g, far more than you need for the recipe.

Store the rest in an airtight container in a cool, dark place and use within a few months.

Lots of fresh Asian flavours come together in this dish. The pickled radishes are so easy and are fantastic with any rice or noodle dish.

Serves 4

— 3 pieces of dried kombu — 1 thumb-sized piece of ginger root, sliced into discs — 200g jasmine rice (dry weight) — 4 tbsp furikake — 4 duck breasts — 4 tbsp tamari — Sea fennel, to garnish (optional) — Combine the kombu, ginger and 600ml water in a pan and let it sit until the kombu softens—around 25-35 mins. Bring to the boil, then take off the heat. Remove the kombu and reserve for later.

— In the meantime, wash the rice a few times and cook according to the instructions. Put the hot rice in a large mixing bowl and add the furikake, mixing thoroughly with the rice.

— For the duck breasts, preheat the oven to 160C. Place the duck breasts in two ovenproof pans, skin-side down, place the pans on the hob and turn on the heat to high.

When the skin is seared and beginning to colour, turn the duck breasts over and sear on the other side for 1 min or so.

— Turn back over to skin-side down and place in the oven for about 8 mins. The duck is done when it is just about firm when pressed.

Take out of the oven and rest for about 8 mins before serving.

— To serve, place the furikake rice in the centre of the bowls. Chop the reserved kombu and place it around the rice. Place the duck breasts on the rice and then pour the dashi broth (removing the ginger at this point) around the plate. Scatter over some sea fennel if available. Splash on the tamari, then serve.

Alternative Tamari is a Japanese style of soy sauce, made without wheat and generally richer and less salty in flavour. It can easily be substituted with regular soy sauce.

31 Market Life Summer recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

Serves 6

For the jollof seasoning: — 30g ground ginger — 20g garlic powder — 20g dried chilli flakes — 35g dried thyme — 25g ground cinnamon — 15g ground nutmeg — 15g ground coriander — ¼ tsp sea salt — ¼ tsp coarse ground black pepper — 1 whole guinea fowl (approx 1.5kg) — 1 lemon, halved — 1 bunch of spring onions, trimmed and washed — 1 scotch bonnet, pierced with a knife — 50ml coconut oil, melted — Mix all the seasoning ingredients together in a bowl.

— Heat the oven to 190C. Place the guinea fowl into a roasting tray and stuff with a lemon half, the spring onions and the pierced scotch bonnet. Use a sharp knife or fork to prick some holes in the skin of the bird before pouring over the melted coconut oil and 2 tbsp jollof seasoning. Rub thoroughly all over skin.

— Loosely cover with foil and roast for 30 mins, then remove the foil and baste with the juice of the other lemon half, plus a sprinkling of sea salt. Reduce the temperature to 165C and roast for 20 mins more.

— Serve with your usual Sunday roast potatoes and vegetables!

Serves 4

For the radishes: — 50ml rice vinegar — 1 tbsp brown sugar — 8 red radishes, thinly sliced For the chicken wings: — 3 garlic cloves, crushed — 5cm piece of ginger, peeled and chopped — 1 red chilli, deseeded and chopped — 1 shallot, chopped — 2 tbsp runny honey — 2 tbsp tamari — 250g chicken wings For the ramen: — 2 lemongrass sticks, bashed — 1 tbsp fish sauce — 2 tbsp tamari — 250g udon noodles To serve: — 4 baby fennel — 1 tsp toasted black and white sesame seeds — 1 spring onion, finely sliced — For the pickled radishes, put the vinegar, sugar and 50ml water into a small saucepan and simmer until the sugar has dissolved. Place the radishes in a small sterilised jar and pour over the hot pickling liquid. Allow to cool, then put the lid on the jar and chill for at least 2 hours.

— To prepare the chicken wing marinade, mash the chopped garlic, ginger, chilli and shallot into a paste.

— In a small saucepan, bring the honey, tamari and a little water to the boil, stirring to dissolve the honey. Lower to a simmer, and leave to reduce until you have a consistency that will coat the chicken wings. Mix the sauce with the ginger, garlic and chilli paste and coat the chicken wings evenly. Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours, or overnight.

— When you’re ready to cook the wings, preheat the oven to 220C. Spread the wings out evenly in a roasting tin and roast for about 25 mins.

— For the ramen base, infuse the lemongrass in 300ml simmering water for 10 mins, then add the fish sauce and tamari. Discard the lemongrass. At the same time, cook the noodles in a large pan of boiling water until just tender—around 5-7 mins. Drain and add to the lemongrass broth.

— Torch or griddle the baby fennel to colour.

To serve, ladle the broth and noodles into deep bowls. Top with the chicken wings, pickled radishes, baby fennel, toasted sesame seeds and spring onion.

Jollof spiced guinea fowl

Mar i muntanya

Duck breast with furikake rice and kombu broth

Piedmontese veal carpaccio with pecorino and salted grissini

32 Market Life Summer recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

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Mar i muntanya (Catalan chicken with prawns) Jenny Chandler

Piedmontese veal carpaccio with pecorino and salted grissini Ursula Ferrigno

The Catalan Costa Brava is renowned for its eclectic combinations of poultry and meat with seafood. This dish is enriched and thickened with a picada: a garlicky bread, nut and parsley paste, stirred into the sauce just a few minutes before serving.

Impressive, delicious, light, perfect for alfresco entertaining. A firm family favourite that is constantly requested.

Serves 4

For the picada — 2 tbsp olive oil — 2 cloves of garlic, skinned and halved — 1 medium slice of rustic bread — 50g roasted almonds — A large handful of parsley leaves For the main dish — 4 chicken legs — Salt and black pepper — 2 tbsp olive oil — 12 large raw prawns, heads and shells on — 2 onions, diced — 200g tin of chopped tomatoes — 150ml Spanish brandy — 300ml chicken stock or water — 1 bay leaf — 1 sprig fresh thyme

Lizzie at Wild Beef

33 Market Life Summer recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

— Start by making the picada. Take a large oven-proof frying pan, clay cazuela or cast iron dish (big enough to hold all the chicken) and fry the garlic in the olive oil until it gilds and begins to smell fabulous. Set the garlic aside and fry the bread in the same oil until it crisps and soaks up most of the oil.

— Now it’s up to you: pestle and mortar and plenty of elbow grease, or a quick blitz in the food processor—the aim is a thick, slightly rough paste. Pound or blitz the garlic, fried bread, almonds and parsley. Keep this for later.

— Pre-heat the oven to 190C and continue with the same pan. Season the chicken with salt and pepper and then fry the pieces in the oil until the skin crisps and turns golden.

— Set the chicken aside and fry the prawns very briefly in the same oil. Once they are beautifully pink, put them aside to cool and then keep them in the fridge until ready to use.

— Add the onion to the pan and cook gently until it becomes really soft and just begins to turn brown. Add the tomatoes and bubble until the liquid has evaporated.

— Pour on the brandy, and boil for a couple of minutes before adding the chicken stock or water and the herbs. Return the chicken pieces to the pan and place in the oven for about 30 mins or until the chicken is well cooked.

— Stir in your picada and taste the sauce—you may need some salt. Add the prawns and place back in the oven for about 5 mins.

Serve with good bread.

Serves 6 as a starter

— 400g rose veal fillet, trimmed — Handful of flat leaf parsley — 3 radishes, thinly sliced on a mandolin — 30g pecorino, shaved with a vegetable peeler For the salted grissini: — 125ml water, body temperature — 6g fresh yeast — 150g ‘00’ flour — 1 tbsp olive oil — 3 tsp salt flakes For the lemon and anchovy dressing: — 6 anchovy fillets in olive oil, chopped into little pieces — 100ml lightly flavoured extra virgin olive oil — 80ml lemon juice — Zest of 1 unwaxed lemon — 1 tbsp lemon thyme leaves — Start with the grissini. Preheat the oven to 180C. Combine the yeast with 25ml water at body temperature.

— In a medium sized bowl, mix the flour and 1 tsp salt. Make a rabbit hole in the flour and add the yeast mixture and olive oil. Add the rest of the water little by little until you have a tacky dough, not too wet and not too dry.

— Knead for 5 mins on a lightly floured table.

Return to a clean bowl and allow to rise for 20 mins.

— Divide the dough into 20 equal pieces. Using the palms of your hand, turn each lump of dough into a thin cylinder by stretching and rolling it on a flour-free work surface (they stretch more easily without flour, as they adhere better to the surface). When around 25cm in length, place onto parchment-lined trays, sprinkle with the remaining salt flakes and bake for 10-12 mins until golden brown.

Place on wire racks to cool completely.

— Wrap the veal in clingfilm, rolling the ends to form a cylinder. Freeze for around 30 mins, until firm.

— In a small bowl, whisk together all the dressing ingredients and season to taste.

— Remove the clingfilm and thinly slice the veal with a very sharp knife. Arrange the veal on a serving platter, then scatter with radish slices and parsley leaves. Drizzle with the dressing, grind over a little salt and pepper, scatter with pecorino shavings and serve with the grissini.

Lamb, courgette, goat’s cheese and olive crumb

34 Market Life Summer recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

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Lamb, courgette, goat’s cheese and olive crumb Tony Rodd

Pork and plum meatballs with cauliflower puree and roasted greens Ed Smith

This is an easy recipe for a dinner party as the only element that needs to be cooked close to serving is the lamb. The dish also uses the other ingredients to do the job of seasoning and bring colour and flavour to the plate.

Here’s a delicious way to use up items that might otherwise be deemed surplus to requirement: the handful of plums can be swiped from the punnet you used to make plum gin (see below); the breadcrumbs ensure that the ends of an old, drying loaf are not thrown away; and the cauliflower greens are an example of using all of a vegetable.

Serves 4

— 100g of black olives, pitted — 2 green courgettes, cut lengthways into ½ cm thick slices — 2 yellow courgettes — 100g goat’s cheese — 1 pomegranate — 1 lamb rack or 8 lamb cutlets (you’ll often get only 7 in a rack, so ask your butcher for 8) — 100g Greek yoghurt — Start with the olive crumb. This can be done a few days in advance and be kept in tupperware until needed. Drain the olives and place in a microwave on full power for 2 mins.

Place on an oven tray in an oven at 100C for 1 hour, or until the olives have completely dried out and are brittle. Blitz in a food processor or crush in a pestle and mortar.

— Place the green courgettes in a hot griddle pan to char. Rotate 90 degrees until you have a grid of char marks. Repeat on both sides and remove from the heat, reserving until needed.

— With the yellow courgette, using a vegetable peeler, cut 12 thin strips. Blanch in boiling water for 30 secs and chill over ice to stop the cooking process. Other shapes can be cut and cooked in the same fashion, if desired.

Twist the strips into spirals and save until later.

— Tear the goat’s cheese into small pieces and deseed the pomegranate.

— Now we can start with the lamb. Pre-heat an oven to 180C. Score the lamb skin down to the fat and season well. Place skin-side down in a cool pan then turn the heat to medium and leave the fat to render out. Cook for 5 mins, then increase the heat to mediumhigh for a further 5 mins. Place in the oven and cook for 20 mins or, if using a meat thermometer, until the internal temperature reaches 55C. Remove to a board and allow to rest for 5 mins, while you finish off the dish.

— To plate up the dish, start with a spoonful of Greek yoghurt in the centre of the plate.

Using the back of a spoon, tap the yoghurt, splashing it out across the plate. Place the griddled courgette on top of the yoghurt and the yellow courgette around this. Cut the lamb into cutlets and place 2 on each plate, over the green courgette. Scatter over the olive crumb, goat’s cheese and pomegranate seeds.

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Serves 4

For the meatballs: — 60g soft white breadcrumbs — 70ml whole milk — 100-150g plums, halved and de-stoned — 600g minced pork — 1 medium egg — ¼ nutmeg, freshly grated — 12 sprigs of thyme, leaves picked — ½ tsp flaky sea salt

the garlic and cook for 1 min more. Increase the heat, wait for 10 seconds, then pour in the stock. Reduce by a quarter, then stir in the creme fraiche and turn down to a very gentle simmer. Add the meatballs and tarragon and simmer for 10 mins more.

— Reheat the puree and keep an eye on the cauliflower greens—they should soften and brown a little, but not dry out. If your cauliflower lacked plentiful layers of green, serve with blanched or wilted curly kale.

For the cauliflower sides: — 1 medium cauliflower, including leaves — 1 clove of garlic, peeled — 600g whole milk — 30g butter For the sauce: — 1 banana shallot, finely diced — 1 clove of garlic, minced — 250ml chicken or vegetable stock — 300ml full fat creme fraiche — 6 sprigs of tarragon, leaves picked and chopped — Put the breadcrumbs in a bowl and add the milk. Stir and leave to soak.

— Mince the plums by finely chopping. In a mixing bowl, use your hands to combine all of the meatball ingredients.

— Wet your hands and roll the meatball mixture into 60g spheres (slightly larger than golf balls). Arrange the meatballs on a baking sheet, then chill for at least an hour.

— Make the cauliflower puree, which can be reheated on a low heat just before serving.

Trim the green leaves and set aside. Cut the florets and stem into 2cm wedges, then place in a saucepan with the garlic and milk.

Simmer over a medium heat for 15-20 mins, until soft. Scoop into a blender, add a good pinch of salt and pepper, the butter and three quarters of the warm milk. Blend until smooth and silky—it should be quite light and loose, but not soupy.

— Wash the greens and cut the thick stems in half lengthways. Place on a roasting tray, toss in olive oil and season with sea salt and black pepper.

— When ready to eat, heat the oven to 200C. Bake the meatballs for 10 mins. Put the cauliflower leaves in the oven at the same time.

— Meanwhile, find a saucepan or sauté pan large enough to hold the meatballs in one layer. Place over a low-medium heat and briefly warm 1 tbsp light olive oil. Add the shallot and a pinch of salt. Soften for 3 mins without browning, stirring occasionally. Add

Pork and plum meatballs with cauliflower puree and roasted greens

Pot-roasted loin of pork with fig and walnut stuffing

Duck breast with furikake rice and kombu broth

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Pot-roasted loin of pork with fig and walnut stuffing Angela Clutton

Roast chicken with rosemary salt, extra virgin olive oil and figs Felicity Cloake

Shredded chicken with crunchy vegetables, yuzu dressing and pecans Ching-He Huang

This is a very special pork joint, with crackling worthy of a celebration in itself. The stuffing is packed inside the joint before you tie it up, but don’t worry if any oozes out—it will just nestle in the bed of fennel and onions.

Ripe figs and aromatic rosemary bring the perfume of the Mediterranean in high summer to this super-easy supper dish.

— 1.5 tbsp coarse flaky salt — 4 sprigs of rosemary, leaves picked — 1 unwaxed orange, zest and juice — 4 chicken legs — 6 ripe figs — E xtra virgin olive oil

This is a moist and succulent ‘clean’ chicken salad. Lean chicken breast is a good source of protein, and is poached in this recipe so it remains juicy, the salad vegetables provide a delicious crunch and pecans are absolutely great when toasted.

Serves 6

— ½ leek, trimmed and finely chopped — 180g fresh figs, finely chopped — 1½ tbsp finely chopped lemongrass — 40g walnuts, finely chopped — ½ tsp ground cinnamon — Grated zest of 1 orange — 125ml cider vinegar or honey vinegar — 20g dried breadcrumbs (not panko) — 2kg boneless loin of pork (ask the butcher to cut the loin under its eye to create a flap for the stuffing) — 1 large bulb of fennel, roughly chopped — 2 onions, roughly chopped — 3 garlic cloves, crushed — Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a frying pan and cook the leek until softened. Turn off the heat and stir in the figs, lemongrass, walnuts, cinnamon, orange zest, 75ml vinegar and the breadcrumbs. Season it well.

— Open the loin out, skin-side down, and stuff with the fig mix. Don’t pack too much in–you want to be able to close it tight when you tie it.

— Cut off at least six times the length of the joint in kitchen string. Pass the string under the joint at one end, bring round to the seam of the stuffing and tie a knot, leaving one short end of string (around 7-8cm) and a very long end. Pull the long end 2cm to the side of the knot, hold in place with your finger, pass the string under the joint then bring up to where your finger is and pass the long end under the string you are holding down to form a knot. Keep going along the joint to tie it together.

— Once you get to the end, turn the joint over, run the string along the centre of the tied joint and tie with the short end you left at the beginning.

You should have a tightly tied-up loin.

— Heat the oven to 150C. Heat 2 tbsp olive oil in a large casserole dish. Sit the pork loin fat-side down in the oil and leave for a few minutes to brown. Turn it over and sear the underside, then remove and set aside. Add the fennel, onion and garlic to the hot fat and allow to just start to soften but not colour. Pour over the remaining vinegar, season, stir round, then sit the joint on top, fat-side up. Cover with a lid and put into the oven for 2 hours.

— After 2 hours, increase the oven heat to 200C. Remove the lid and sprinkle salt flakes over the would-be crackling. Finish in the high heat for 30 mins, then remove from the oven. Rest for 10 mins, then lift the joint out and carve. The fennel and onion mix on the bottom of the pan (there won’t be much, but it is delicious) can be spooned into a bowl for serving.

— If the joint is difficult to carve through with the crackling, you could cut the string, lift the crackling off and serve it on the side for people to help themselves to—then carve.

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Serves 4

— Rub together the salt, rosemary leaves and orange zest. Scatter two thirds over the chicken, cover and leave to sit in a cool place for an hour (or overnight in the fridge).

— When you’re ready to cook, heat the oven to 220C and quarter the figs. Toss the chicken in a shallow roasting tin with a glug of oil and scatter over the figs. Bake for 15 mins until golden then turn the heat down to 180C and bake for 20-25 mins more, until cooked through.

— Squeeze over a spritz of orange juice and a little more of the salt if required.

Serves1 For the salad: — 50g mangetout, washed and sliced on an angle — 50g carrot, peeled and cut into julienne strips — 50g red cabbage, washed and finely shredded — 25g baby strawberries, halved For the chicken: — 400ml cold water — 120g free range or organic skinless chicken breast, left whole For the dressing: — 1 garlic clove, crushed, peeled and grated — 1 tsp freshly grated, peeled root ginger — 1 tbsp Japanese yuzu dressing — 1 tsp low-sodium light soy sauce or tamari — 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil To garnish: — 1 spring onion, topped, tailed and sliced on an angle — 1 small handful of toasted pecans

Shredded chicken with crunchy vegetables, yuzu dressing and pecans

— First toss together all the salad ingredients in a bowl. Bring the water to the boil in a medium pan. Add the chicken breast, reduce the heat and poach at a gentle simmer for about 8 mins. While the chicken is cooking, prepare the dressing by whisking all the ingredients together.

— Remove the chicken from the water, drain well and place on a chopping board. Once cool enough to handle, using your fingers, shred the chicken into bite-sized pieces, then leave to cool for 5 mins.

— To serve, toss the chicken with the salad vegetables in a large bowl, then pour in the yuzu dressing and toss well. Transfer to a serving plate and garnish with the sliced spring onion and toasted pecans.

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Spiced lamb burgers Jenny Chandler

Suya goat kebabs Zoe Adjonyoh

Burgers or meatballs are great for getting a production line going with kids—it’s good to include them in the tasting and seasoning too. You could always make a double quantity and freeze some.

The mighty suya is the king of barbecue spices in Nigeria. Its smoky flavours are perfect with the gamey tenderness of goat meat. You will have plenty of spice rub left over at the end of this recipe that can be used as a marinade on any red meats or to spice up a roast chicken.

Makes 6 large burgers

— 1-2 banana shallots, depending on size — 1kg minced lamb — 2 heaped tsp baharat spice mix — 1 tsp salt — Dice the shallot as finely as possible and then mix all the ingredients together with your hands in a large bowl.

— Press together a small coin of the lamb mixture and fry it off in a pan with just a spot of vegetable oil. Taste. Now assess whether you want to up the spices or salt.

— Divide the meat mixture into 6 round patties—a press works very well, especially if cooking on a barbecue when a looser texture can be prone to falling apart. Chilling the burgers for at least 1 hour will also help them hold together well.

— Fry, grill or barbecue the burgers for about 4-5 mins on each side, until they feel firm and are just cooked through.

Alternative Try seasoning with fresh thyme and sweet smoked paprika for a bit of spanish flavour, or season with lemon zest and oregano for a greek touch.

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Serves 6

For the suya spice rub: — 100g roasted peanuts, coarsely ground — 3 cloves of garlic, minced — 5cm ginger, grated — 1 tsp cayenne pepper or red chilli flakes — 1 tsp smoked paprika — 2 tbsp groundnut or vegetable oil — A pinch of sea salt For the kebabs: — 500g boneless goat leg, diced — 1 large red onion — 1-2 red, green or yellow peppers For the garnish: — A pinch of chilli powder — 50g roasted peanuts, crushed — A few sprigs of fresh coriander For the plantain in coconut oil: — 6 plantains — 30ml coconut oil — 1 tsp dried chilli flakes — 5cm ginger, grated — 1 tsp cayenne pepper, to garnish (optional) — Mix all the spice rub ingredients together.

— Depending on how spicy you like your food, add 25-50g of the suya spice mix to the diced goat and massage it thoroughly into the meat.

— Peel and quarter the red onion, then deseed and cut the peppers into chunks. Thread the onion, peppers and goat meat onto wooden or bamboo skewers. As ever, the longer you can leave your meat to marinate the better, so if you have time, leave the skewers in the fridge for at least 1-2 hours or preferably overnight.

— Take the skewers out of the fridge and sit at room temperature for a few minutes while you heat the grill or griddle pan.

— Baste the meat with a little groundnut oil and season with sea salt and black pepper before putting it under the grill or onto the griddle— it should sizzle, but don’t move it! Turn only every 2 mins, once each side is seared through (for medium-rare), or every 3 mins on each side for well done.

— Allow to rest for 2 mins, then scatter over the crushed peanuts and chilli powder. Tear over the coriander leaves.

— Remove the ends of the plantain with a sharp knife, cut the skin down the middle lengthways then peel open like a banana.

Slice the flesh down the middle lengthways and baste with the coconut oil, chilli flakes, ginger and a pinch of sea salt.

— Fry for a few minutes on either side in a hot pan until golden brown all over and soft in the middle—test with a fork.

Zoe Adjonyoh

Suya goat kebabs

Spiced rack of lamb with tomato and caper salsa

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Spiced rack of lamb with tomato and caper salsa Kay Plunkett-Hogge

Turmeric spiced chicken with white kimchi and chilli green beans Nicole Pisani

This really is a deceptively simple little dish.

Tender lamb rack, subtle spicing and a nice twitch of heat. Into the oven it goes, and by the time you have had a glass of wine and made the salsa you are ready to go.

The amazing golden colour of the turmeric rub and the fresh white kimchi make this the perfect summer roast chicken. This dish is equally good served hot or cold.

Ask your butcher to French trim the racks—they look prettier and are nice and easy to eat with your fingers, if you like.

Serves 4

— 1 hot red chilli, chopped finely — A few sprigs of fresh thyme — Zest of 1 lemon — 2 tbsp za’atar — 120ml olive oil — 2 racks of lamb, about 14 chops in all For the salsa — 4 tbsp capers, chopped if large — 16 cherry tomatoes, quartered — 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped or crushed — A large handful of fresh parsley, chopped — 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil — In a bowl large enough to hold the lamb, mix the chilli, thyme, lemon zest and za’atar together with the oil. Rub the marinade into the lamb, season with pepper, and leave for about an hour.

— Preheat the oven to 200C. Heat a skillet or a frying pan with a metal handle over a medium hob. Season the lamb with salt, then sear its fat until golden.

— Turn the racks flesh side down and roast in the oven for about 20 mins. Remove from the oven and set aside to rest for at least another 15-20 mins while you make the salsa.

— Mix all the salsa ingredients together in a bowl and season with salt and pepper to taste.

When the lamb has rested, carve the racks into chops and serve, drizzled with the pan drippings, with a generous helping of salsa on the side and some griddled courgettes.

40 Market Life Summer recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

Serves 4

For the white kimchee: — 1 Chinese leaf cabbage — 1 tbsp sea salt — 1 daikon radish (optional) — 1 fennel bulb — 1 red onion — 3 tbsp fish sauce — 1 tbsp grated root ginger — 1 garlic clove, crushed — Cornflowers, to garnish (optional) For the chicken: — 2 tbsp coconut oil — ½ tsp ground ginger — 1 tsp ground cumin — 1 tsp garam masala — ½ tsp chilli powder — ½ tsp ground coriander — 1 tsp ground turmeric — ½ tsp black pepper — 3 garlic cloves, crushed — 1 lemon — 1 large whole chicken (approx 1½kg)

— Quarter the lemon and rub the pieces all over the chicken, inside and out. Rub the paste all over the chicken, making sure you don’t neglect the legs, thighs and wings.

— Put the lemon quarters into the cavity, place the chicken in a roasting tray and roast in the oven for 1 hour 30 mins. Remove from the oven, cover with foil and allow to rest for at least 10 mins.

— To make the chilli sauce for the green beans, saute the chopped onion in a little olive oil for about 3 mins before adding the chilli, ginger and garlic. Continue to cook for another 2-3 mins, then add the mirin, brown rice vinegar and brown sugar. Cook for a few minutes, until the sauce is slightly sticky, then set aside.

— Steam your green beans for a few minutes— the fresher they are, the quicker they will cook—and then toss in the chilli sauce.

Carve and serve the chicken, along with some white kimchee and chilli green beans.

For the chilli green beans: — ½ onion, finely chopped — 1 tbsp olive oil — 1 chilli, finely chopped — 1 thumb-sized piece of root ginger, peeled and finely chopped — 1 garlic clove, finely chopped — 2 tbsp mirin — 2 tbsp brown rice vinegar (or apple cider vinegar) — 1 tbsp brown sugar — 200g green beans — To make the kimchi, shred the Chinese leaf cabbage and separate out the leaves. Toss with the sea salt, making sure all the shredded leaves are evenly covered, then leave to sit for 2 hours.

Rinse and drain.

— Slice the radish, fennel and onion and mix with the cabbage. Mix together the fish sauce, grated ginger and crushed garlic, then thoroughly mix all of this into the vegetables with your hands.

— Press the kimchi into a sterilised jar. You need about 3cm space between the liquid and the top of the jar, and it’s important that the cabbage is submerged, so top up with a little water if needed. Cover with the lid—but don’t fasten it, leave it loose—and keep at room temperature for a day to kickstart the fermentation process. After that, store in the fridge (keeping the lid loose) for up to a month.

— For the chicken, preheat the oven to 190C. Pound or blend all the turmeric rub ingredients together so you have a thick-ish paste.

Wyndham House Poultry

Turmeric spiced chicken with white kimchi and chilli green beans

41 Market Life Summer recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

Sweet Summer recipes

Where to buy In the Market or online Gin East London Liquor Company Unsalted butter Hook and Son Raspberries Stark’s Fruiterers Plums Chegworth Valley Cherries Elsey & Bent Honey From Field and Flower Dark chocolate So Chocolicious Hazelnuts Food & Forest Self-raising flour Bread Ahead

42 Market Life Summer recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

Sam at From Field and Flower Below right: Hook and Son

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Cucumber and gin sorbet

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Cucumber and gin sorbet Kathy Slack

Chocolate, cherry and raspberry tart Ursula Ferrigno

All my favourite flavours. This tart is especially good if you have grown your own fruit—you will be so, so proud.

Serves 8

— 300g caster sugar — 40g liquid glucose — ½ lemon, juiced — 3 large cucumbers (600g in weight) — 140ml gin — Put the sugar and glucose in a saucepan with 300ml of water. Set the pan over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved. Do not let it boil.

Remove from the heat and add the lemon juice.

— Juice the cucumbers. If you have one, you can do this in a juicer. If not, roughly chop them then whizz in a blender to make a watery puree. Line a sieve with muslin and set it over a bowl, then tip the puree into the sieve and leave for a few minutes so the juice drips through to the bowl below. You can gather the muslin into a bag and give it a gentle squeeze to encourage any last drops. Either process should result in approximately 500ml of juice.

— Mix the sugary liquid and the cucumber juice together. Add the gin and put it in the fridge to chill. Once chilled, churn in an ice cream maker then transfer to the freezer to set completely.

Serves 8

For the pastry: — 30g icing sugar — 1 egg yolk, plus enough water to make up to 60ml — 240g ‘00’ flour — 200g cold, unsalted butter, cut into small cubes

Alternative Other fruits may be used, for example, blueberries, strawberries, peaches and nectarines.

For the poached cherries: — 700g fresh cherries, pitted — 100ml red wine — 140g golden caster sugar — 1 star anise — 1 cinnamon stick — 3 cloves — 1 piece of thinly peeled orange rind For the chocolate ganache: — 200g dark chocolate, at least 75% cocoa solids — 80g unsalted butter — 3 tbsp double cream For the cream: — 200ml double cream — 30g caster sugar — 1 tsp vanilla extract or bean paste — 50g toasted flaked almonds — 200g raspberries — Icing sugar for dusting — For the sweet pastry, mix the icing sugar and egg yolk in a small bowl until smooth. Pulse the flour, butter and a pinch of salt in a food processor until blended, but ensure that the butter is still lumpy.

— Turn out onto a work surface and bring the crumbs together in a heap. Make a rabbit hole in the centre and pour in the egg mixture.

Lightly mix with your hands, kneading gently.

Wrap in clingfilm and rest for 30 mins.

— Knead the pastry very gently, roll out to line a 28cm tart tin, trim the edge and prick all over with a fork. Freeze for 15 mins until you are ready to bake.

— Preheat the oven to 180C. Blind bake the tart shell for 12-15 mins, until lightly golden.

Remove the paper and weights and bake for a further 10 mins. Set aside on a wire rack to cool.

— For the poached cherries, combine all the ingredients in a saucepan over a medium heat. Simmer for at least 20 mins until the cherries are tender. Set aside to cool, then chill. This can be done the day before or while the pastry is chilling, but the longer the better.

— For the chocolate ganache, melt the chocolate in a bowl over a pan of simmering water. Add the butter and cream, stirring until you have a smooth mixture.

— Pour into the cooled tart shell, spread evenly over the base and chill.

— For the cream, whisk the cream in a bowl until

45 Market Life Summer recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

you have soft peaks, then add the sugar and vanilla. Spoon over the chilled chocolate. Top with drained cherries, raspberries and flaked almonds. Dust with icing sugar.

Jock and Richard of Stark’s Fruiterers

Chocolate, cherry and raspberry tart

Gooseberry granita with shortbread thins and elderflower cream

Honey and rosemary lemonade

Summer fruit and rosewater lollies

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Gooseberry granita with shortbread thins and elderflower cream Felicity Cloake

Honey and rosemary lemonade Jenny Chandler

Summer fruit and rosewater lollies Jenny Chandler

This crunchy, tangy ice, made with gooseberry—my favourite summer fruit—is incredibly refreshing and surprisingly easy to make. Served with a subtly floral cream and crisp little biscuits, it makes a very elegant summer dessert.

The most thirst-quenching drink imaginable, as long as it’s not too sweet.

Lemons vary in size and acidity, so I’d have a couple of extras standing by in case you need to sharpen this up a little.

A perfect way to use up odd bits of fruit. Any leftover mixture can obviously be sloshed back as a smoothie. Ice lolly moulds are easy to come by and offer limitless possibilities with flavours. You’re in control too— no need for colouring, artificial flavours or too much sugar.

Serves 4

— 150g caster sugar — 500g gooseberries, topped and tailed — 1 lemon — 150ml whipping cream — 1-2 tbsp elderflower cordial — 4 small mint leaves For the shortbread thins: — 55g butter, at room temperature — 25g caster sugar — A good pinch of salt — 65g plain flour — 20g fine polenta — Put the sugar and fruit in a pan and add just enough water to cover. Bring to the boil, then turn down the heat and simmer until tender and bursting.

— Pour the gooseberries and water into a sieve set over a heatproof bowl, really pressing down to get as much through the sieve as possible.

— Stir well to give an even consistency and taste—it should be intensely sour and sweet.

If you think it needs any more sugar, or lemon juice, add it now (bear in mind the flavours will be less strong once frozen).

— Pour into a shallow dish and freeze. After about an hour, start checking on it—as soon as it starts to solidify around the edges stir with a fork, mixing the solid ice into liquid.

Repeat about every 30 mins until you have a light cloud of crystals.

— Meanwhile, make the biscuits. Put the butter into a large mixing bowl, and beat with a wooden spoon until soft. Mix in the sugar and salt.

— Sift over the flour and polenta and mix to a smooth dough. Wrap and chill for at least 15 mins until firm.

— Heat the oven to 180C and line a baking sheet with paper. Roll out the dough to just over 5mm thick, cut out four rounds and put on the baking sheet. Bake for about 12-15 mins until golden, then allow to cool.

— Whip the cream to soft peaks, then whisk in the cordial to taste. Serve the granita in glasses with a dollop of elderflower cream, a mint leaf and a round of shortbread.

Waste not The gooseberry solids left in the sieve are delicious stirred through yoghurt, so don’t throw them away!

47 Market Life Summer recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

Serves 6-8

— 6 large, juicy lemons — 6 sprigs of rosemary — 3 tbsp lightly scented honey such as acacia or borage — 4 tbsp sugar — 250ml water — Plenty of ice and cold water to top up — Peel the zest from 2 lemons (avoiding too much bitter white pith) and place in a small saucepan with 3 of the rosemary sprigs, the honey, sugar and water.

— Heat the pan up to boiling point and then set aside to steep and cool for a couple of hours.

Once cool, strain the aromatic syrup into a jug.

— Squeeze the lemons, a great job for any children around, and add to the jug. Top up to taste with plenty of ice (don’t forget that this will dilute the lemonade as it melts) and some cool water.

— Serve with a couple of whole sprigs of rosemary in the jug (not the individual leaves as my daughter prepared, or you will end up with a mouthful of needle-like greenery) and maybe a slice of lemon.

Makes 6

— 1 large slice of watermelon — 150g raspberries — 3 nectarines — Rose water and honey to taste — Skin and deseed the watermelon and then liquidise with the raspberries. Taste the juice—it should be rather sweet as your tastebuds will be partially numbed by the cold, so you may want a tablespoon of honey.

Whizz it and check again until you are happy.

— Half fill the lolly moulds and place in the freezer.

— Meanwhile, stone the nectarines but keep the skin on. Liquidise and add honey and rosewater to taste. Once the lollies have frozen, add the nectarine purée and place back in the freezer for at least 5 hours or until ready to eat.

Alternative Or a somewhat more adult take, orange juice sweetened with a little dash of sugar and a slosh of campari makes for fantastically tasty and only gently boozy lolly.

Peach, raspberry and pistachio mess jars

Plum and yoghurt fool

Raspberry drop pancakes

James Lowe

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Peach, raspberry and pistachio mess jars Rachel Phipps

Plum and yoghurt fool James Lowe

Old jam jars make for a beautiful way to serve up any type of potted dessert to guests, but if you make sure you don’t fill the jars up too much you can also screw the lids back on and stack them up in a picnic basket for the perfect end to an out and about meal.

I’m always drawn to more simple desserts.

I love great dairy and fruit, so these are generally the things I build desserts around.

I love to experiment with the many types of plums we have in this country. There is no such thing as a ‘standard’ plum—they are all so different, they react differently to cooking or baking and have wonderful variations in acidity and sugar. The important thing is to always taste everything you are cooking and think about what the dish will be like overall.

If the fruit is overly sweet, remove sugar elsewhere. If it is slightly sharp, then increase the dairy or the sugar in another part of the recipe.

Makes 8 jars

— 500ml double cream — 3-4 large meringues — 200g raspberries — 4 large ripe peaches — 2 small handfuls of pistachios — Whip the cream until just stiff. Lightly crush the meringues, chop the peaches into very small pieces and roughly chop the pistachios.

— To assemble the mess jars, simply layer the fruit, cream, meringue and nuts. To stop the meringue going soggy during transportation, make sure you keep it separate from the fruit with a layer of cream.

— For the best visual effect, start with a little bit of fruit at the bottom and make sure you finish with a little fruit and a good sprinkling of nuts on top.

— Finish with the fruit just peeking out over the top of the jar so that the lids can be screwed on easily. Keep refrigerated.

Serves 12

For the oat biscuit: — 300g butter — 270g demerara sugar — 200g oats — 10g salt — 10g bicarbonate of soda — 200g plain flour For the yoghurt mousse: — 250g cream — 2 sheets bronze gelatine — 110g whole milk — 40g sugar — 500g yoghurt — 20 plums — 100g honey

Gary at Elsey and Bent

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— Halve and dehydrate 8 plums overnight at 55C. — To make the oat biscuit, use an electric mixer to beat the butter and sugar until just mixed—do not cream. Add the rest of the ingredients and mix until just combined.

— Roll out as thin as possible between two sheets of baking paper. Bake for 4 mins at 180C (still with baking paper) on a heavy baking tray, weighed down with another baking tray.

— For the yoghurt mousse, whip the cream to stiff peaks then bloom the gelatine in cold water. Warm the milk and dissolve the sugar and the gelatine in this.

— When the milk is cool, mix with the yoghurt, then refrigerate. When the mix is cold, carefully whisk in the cream until there are no lumps.

— Cut the rest of the plums in half, remove the stones and sprinkle with sugar. Bake in a 100C oven until the flesh is yielding and the flavour of the plum has deepened.

— To serve, chop the dehydrated plums. Take 4 large spoons of the mousse and spread flat in a mixing bowl. Drizzle with honey and sprinkle with dehydrated plums. Fold together gently—you want a kind of ripple.

— Add 2 halves of the baked plums to each bowl, spoon over the mousse mix as well as some of the cooking juices from the plums.

Cover with a big slice of the biscuit.

Redcurrant and hazelnut meringue cake

Strawberry gatlova

Strawberry and fennel seed kulfi

Meera Sodha

50 Market Life Summer recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

46.

47.

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Raspberry drop pancakes Angela Clutton

Redcurrant and hazelnut meringue cake Felicity Cloake

Strawberry and fennel seed kulfi Meera Sodha

My favourite pancakes are the stacks of slightly risen crempog, which are a Welsh tradition. If you aren’t familiar, think of American pancakes and you are on the right lines—but these are distinctly smaller and lighter. Mighty tempting for an indulgent breakfast, afternoon tea or dessert with some cream or yoghurt on the side. Buttermilk is the traditional ingredient for these because of its acidity, which reacts with the bicarbonate of soda to give a characteristic bubble and rise. Here, that is replicated with a mix of milk and infused vinegar (try Fitz Fine Foods for a selection of options). The quick cooking in the hot griddle or frying pan gets the raspberries going just enough to release their flavour, without them losing their shape. Their sweetness marries gorgeously with the gentle acidity of the pseudo-buttermilk.

A seasonal favourite in southwest Germany, this deliciously squidgy cake pairs tart, juicy currants with a nutty sweet hazelnut meringue—perfect with a mid-afternoon cup of coffee.

Indians go wild for strawberry season.

Strawberry sellers in Mumbai stand on street corners behind gigantic pyramids that look too beautiful to disturb. This kulfi, much like an ice cream, is my favourite way to eat them.

Infusing fennel seed into the cream lends it a sweet but gentle aniseed flavour.

Makes 16

— 200ml whole milk — 1 tbsp herb- or flower-infused vinegar — 25g butter, plus extra for cooking and serving — 180g plain flour — 1 egg, beaten — ¾ tsp bicarbonate of soda — 90g raspberries — Honey, golden syrup or maple syrup, for drizzling — Stir together the milk and vinegar in a bowl or jug and set aside. Melt the butter and leave to cool.

— Sift the flour into a large mixing bowl, then use a hand whisk to mix in the melted butter and the milk and vinegar mixture until you have a smooth batter. Whisk in the egg. The batter can be made to this point 2 hours before using.

— Just before you’re ready to start cooking, whisk in the bicarbonate of soda then gently fold through 70g raspberries, keeping the rest for serving.

— Grease a frying pan or griddle with a small knob of butter and heat it until good and hot. Make each pancake by dropping 1 tbsp batter into the pan. I would make 4-5 pancakes at a time. Allow to cook for 2 mins until bubbly and puffed up and the underside is golden brown. Flip them over and repeat on the other side. Keep the pancakes warm while you finish the rest (adding more butter to the pan as necessary), building up stacks of pancakes as you go with a little butter, a few raspberries and a drizzle of honey or syrup between each layer.

51 Market Life Summer recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

Serves 8-10

— 100g butter, at room temperature — 100g soft light brown sugar — 4 eggs — 150g self-raising flour — ¼ tsp fine salt — 500g redcurrants, picked, plus a sprig to serve — 75g caster sugar — 75g ground hazelnuts — 25g whole hazelnuts — Grease a 23cm cake tin and line with baking parchment. Heat the oven to 180C. — Beat together the butter and soft brown sugar until fluffy, then beat in the salt and 2 eggs and 2 yolks, setting the 2 whites aside for later. When well combined, fold in the flour and salt.

— Spoon into the tin, top with the currants and bake for 30 mins.

— When the cake has been in the oven for 20 mins, beat the egg whites in a clean bowl until they form soft peaks, then beat in the caster sugar until stiff. Fold in the ground hazelnuts very gently, taking care to keep as much air in the mixture as possible. Spoon on top of the cake once it’s been baking for 30 mins, then bake for a further 15-20 mins until golden.

— Allow to cool before turning out of the tin.

Meanwhile, roughly chop the whole nuts and scatter across the top to serve with the reserved currant sprig.

Alternative Substitute red for black or white currants if you prefer.

Serves 6

— 400g ripe strawberries, hulled and washed — 2 tsp fennel seeds (plus more to decorate) — 400ml condensed milk — 400ml double cream — 1 tbsp caster sugar (optional) — Dried rose petals to decorate (optional) — Place the strawberries into a blender, blend to a puree and leave to one side. Taste the mixture.

— Grind the fennel seeds in a pestle and mortar and place in a pan alongside the cream and condensed milk, stir to mix and heat over a medium heat until the mixture starts to bubble. Turn the heat off and leave to cool.

— When cool whisk all but a couple of tbsp of strawberry puree into the mixture until fully mixed. It should become thick, like custard. Taste and add the sugar if need be, mix and pour into freezable pots or moulds.

To decorate, dot over with the remaining strawberry puree and sprinkle over with fennel seeds and rose petals then freeze for at least 3 hours.

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Strawberry gatlova Juliet Sear

Summer pudding Roopa Gulati

This eye-catching stack of thin, crisp meringue circles looks like a pretty gateau.

It’s also naturally gluten free. Layered with a yoghurt filling, it’s quite a bit lighter than a cream-heavy pavlova and much more impressive looking too. The addition of the beautiful gariguette strawberries make it something truly special. Dipping some whole strawberries in the melted chocolate makes for a particularly show-stopping decoration.

yoghurt filling to thickly cover the meringue.

Add a layer of sliced strawberries to cover, then add the next meringue disc. Repeat for all the meringues, leave the bare one for the top. Decorate with the reserved strawberries, sliced in half, and some of the chocolatecoated whole strawberries, if using. Best served as soon as possible, and within a couple of hours.

10-12 portions

— 5 medium egg whites at room temperature — A pinch of sea salt — 250g white caster sugar — 1 tsp vanilla extract — 300g dark chocolate, melted and cooled — 600g thick, Greek-style yoghurt — 2 tablespoons of honey — 2 tablespoons icing sugar — 500g gariguette strawberries—10-12 left whole for dipping, the rest sliced evenly in pieces about the thickness of a pound coin

52 Market Life Summer recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

Serves 6

— 750g mixed summer berries (cherries, blackcurrants, redcurrants, white currants, blackberries, blueberries, raspberries, strawberries), stalks removed, cherries pitted — 4 tbsp caster sugar, or to taste — 4 tbsp crème de cassis or water — 8 slices of brioche or white bread, 1 day old — Clotted cream, to serve — Put all the fruit apart from the raspberries and strawberries in a big pan. Add the sugar and liqueur or water, and simmer the berries for about 2-3 mins, until the juices run. The fruit should still hold its shape. Turn off the heat and add the raspberries and strawberries, quartering the strawberries if they are large.

— Set a big sieve over a bowl and tip in the fruit and any juices. Line a 750ml pudding basin with plastic wrap, making sure that there’s plenty of extra overhang.

— Cut off the crusts from the bread and quickly dip each slice in the juice and use to line the bottom and sides of the prepared pudding basin. Hold back 2 slices for the top.

— Spoon the fruit from the sieve into the centre of the pudding and fill up the bowl. Dip the remaining 2 bread slices in any remaining juice and use to completely cover the top.

— Cover the pudding with 2 layers of clingfilm.

Put a side plate on top and weigh it down with heavy tins. Chill overnight.

— Turn the pudding out and pour over any leftover juice. Serve with clotted cream and extra berries.

Equipment: — Large baking sheets, lined with baking parchment. I used three baking sheets, each of which accommodated two 18cm round circles with a little room in between — Electric hand whisk (a balloon whisk will work, but will take much longer) — Bain marie or microwave — To prepare the baking sheets, draw around an 18cm (7 inch) round cake board or similar to create five circles. Turn the paper over to prevent any pen being transferred onto the meringue rounds.

— To make the meringue, heat the oven to 120C. Whisk the egg whites and sea salt to stiff peaks, then add the sugar 1 tbsp at a time, whisking well between each addition.

Whisk the vanilla in at the end. You should have a stiff and glossy mixture.

— Spoon the meringue onto your prepared trays with your circles already drawn. Carefully spread the meringue with a palette knife until the circle is filled and you have an even thin layer of meringue.

— Place in the oven for 20 mins then reduce to 100C and cook for another 30-40 mins.

Turn off the heat and leave in the oven to cool completely—you can do this two or three days in advance if you wish as long as you keep the meringues wrapped and airtight.

— When ready to assemble, gently melt the chocolate in a bain marie or a microwave until smooth and glossy, then leave to cool a little.

If you wish to dip a few whole strawberries in chocolate to add to the top, do this now— place them onto a piece of parchment while the chocolate sets. Paint four of the cooked meringue discs with a layer of melted chocolate.

— To make the yoghurt cream filling, whisk together the yoghurt, honey and icing sugar.

— To assemble, place a chocolate-covered disc on a cake plate or stand and add some of the

Plump seasonal berries are a highlight of summer and there’s no better way to show off their fruity juiciness than in a British summer pudding.

Hayleigh at So Chocolicious

Summer pudding

53 Market Life Summer recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk

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54 Market Life Summer recipes / boroughmarket.org.uk