guidebook

BEAUTIFUL CHERRY BLOSSOM

I N H I S TO R I C A L LO N D O N Annegret Schopp-O’Dwyer

The Hanami Hotspots

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Introduction In the much-loved Musical The King and I, the King of Siam is often heard murmuring ‘it is a puzzlement’, when he contemplates his changed world. When researching the cherry blossom in London, I often did the same, wondering why it is that so many people love the cherry blossom, not just here, but all over the world. Anywhere it can grow, it does, planted lovingly in front gardens, along imposing Avenues, or around lakes. For a few glorious weeks every Spring, the cherry blossom delights people.

What do these little flowers have that make us love them so? It is hard to define the beauty in those simple, artless flowers that arouse passions like few other plants or trees. Painters as different in style as van Gough or Manet, have immortalized them. Hokusai surrounded Mount Fuji with them to superb effect. In our profit-obsessed contemporary society, restaurants and bars are full of ‘silk’ cherry blossom, SHOCHU LOUNGE in Fitzrovia being one of the best examples. The achingly trendy Ned Bar in The City once had a cocktail created for Sakura season, which considering the influx of Asian clientele, is not a silly move. Ping-Pong a dim-sum chain also tries very hard to evoke the spirit of Sakura as does the cosmetic chain Rituals.

There are Hanami picnics not only in Japan, but also at the BROGDALE HANAMI FESTIVAL in Kent. In Washington there is a huge parade around the tidal basin, planted with 3,000 cherry trees that were gifted many years ago by the Japanese. The greatest number of cherry trees however, is not in a Japanese town at all, it’s in Macon, Georgia, USA where no less than 350,000 trees greet the visitors at the annual INTERNATIONAL CHERRY BLOSSOM FESTIVAL. The most expensive house in London, valued at £250m and owned by tycoon and philanthropist John Caudwell has a metres-long chandelier of preserved cherry blossom hanging over the enormous dining room table. The man who spent around £60m on renovating this most expensive house in London could have had any flowers for this centerpiece, so why Cherry blossom? The usually sober and self-contained Japanese arrive in Kyoto in their thousands every year to take selfies with all the real, gorgeous blossom on the trees that make Kyoto such a rare and heavenly destination for those few precious weeks.

GREENWICH PARK in London, with its pink Kwanzan cherries lining the paths near the Rangers Lodge, is host to homesick Japanese doing

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Hanami, a delicious picnic on a rug, even in April! If you can’t be in Japan during Sakura time, a pleasant spot on an English lawn makes for a happy time too.

It truly is a puzzlement. What inspires this passionate love of those little flowers, so fragile they get blown away by a wind, and last only a few weeks?

Naoko Abe’s book, THE SAKURA OBSESSION describes perfectly the preoccupation involved. In Japan, Sakura forecasts track the flower openings from South to North daily, so that you can plan you Sakura trip well. Sakura tea and cakes, even Sakura soaps are sold everywhere. Sakura is celebrated 24/7.

The most cherished Japanese folk-tale, THE TALE OF THE PRINCESS KAGUYA was made into an animated Academy Award nominated film and has a charming scene with lots of dancing cherry blossom.

German Director Doris Doerrie, in her FILM CHERRY BLOSSOMS, weaves a touching tale of present-day Japan and Germany around the blossom time.

It has been speculated that the underlying reason for all this adoration is that we feel the arrival of Spring when they first appear and rejoice in them for that reason. Winter is over, a new beginning is possible, new hope for all. Some even consider their very fragility the attraction. Perhaps it reminds us of our own fragility, maybe even of our mortality.

Or perhaps its sheer abundance just really pleases the child in us? We love the snow-like qualities of white blossom floating in the air. In Japan, you can see serious older gentlemen tapping at trees to get that effect! It’s a bit like the last scene in SLAVA’S SNOWSHOW, when buckets of paper snow gently rain down on the audience. The yelps of delight need to be heard to be believed. A similar effect was created in the 2019 production of DICKENS’ CHRISTMAS CAROL staged at The Old Vic. The entire theatre suddenly fluttered with tiny snowflakes, this time made from a suds-like substance, leaving everyone sitting there with snow on their noses, white-decked hair and huge smiles on their faces.

The Cherry blossoms are actually very simply structured flowers, even with the more sophisticated species like the Kwanzan. They are not as elegant as

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orchids or jolly as daffodils. The, ‘HOST OF GOLDEN DAFFODILS’, that Wordsworth writes of, offer the same joy of abundance but they seem much more sturdy than the Cherry Blossom, swaying gently and thus surviving the wind.

So perhaps it is that delicate, so easily damaged essence that reminds us of something as tender and deep inside us.

Let us not over-analyse the poor little flowers.

Maybe it’s better to just look at them and absorb their sheer beauty as it makes its way into the very heart of our being.

In the last few years there were several important publications about them. A gorgeous book called CHERRY BLOSSOMS by Ann McLellan, with superb photos by Ron Blunt for the National Geographic, celebrates the US National Blossom Festival and the centenary of the blossoms’ 1912 arrival from Japan.

In England the Japanese author and journalist Naoko Abe’s scholarly books, THE SAKURA OBSESSION, and ‘CHERRY’ INGRAM brought to light the extraordinary cultural links between the UK and Japan through blossom, and shows what the work of a dedicated journalist can do for our understanding and appreciation of this little flower.

But beauty, we know, lies in the eye of the beholder, and that beholder is part of their time. What is considered beautiful now, may not always have been and may not be so at some point in the future. That is why it is so interesting to consider why today the little flower receives so much attention.

Poets like Friedrich Schiller, were trying to get nearer to an explanation when he called joy, ‘the divine spark’. Beauty sparks that joy inside us and alights the divine in us, is Schiller’s way of thinking. When we hear Beethoven’s ODE TO JOY we instinctively recognize real beauty. Beauty touches in us that which has been described in earlier, more religious times as ‘The Feather on the Breath of God’ (Hildegard of Bingen). Suger 1082-1151, the French Abbott philosopher and statesman who was instrumental in the building of both St.Denis and Chartres Cathedral stated ‘Beauty is the direct pathway to God’! We might describe this experience more as

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a feeling of Bliss, Wellbeing, Homeostasis or simply Joy. In our times we may call it ’the other’, perhaps our Spiritual self. We try to catch beauty by describing it, but we always fall short. Beauty evades language. It cannot be defined, only experienced.

Every age has a different notion of what constitutes beauty in a work of art, architecture, in a human face or even body shape- The female shape en vogue is an easy way to recognise this continuous change. Just compare current depictions of female beauty with the ancient Venus de Milo of 101 BC, or with Botticellis’ Birth Of Venus during the Renaissance or indeed the luminous beauty of Piero della Francesca’s Madonnas - all so very different.

Interestingly, Della Francesco and his almost translucent women are at the subject of the elegantly written recent book by Hisham Matar, A Month in Siena - another revival of a quiet beauty, perhaps?

In our times what is considered beautiful has changed immensely and rapidly, from the voluptuous Sophia Loren, through the kittenish Brigitte Bardot to the prepubescent Twiggy and the ubiquitous waif Kate Moss - so many images of beauty in women in just a few years.

The overwhelming influence of social media in our present time has produced the latest incarnations in Kim Kardashian. She is the postmodern fully merchandised version of the concept. Basing her looks on very old ideas of a balanced face and hourglass figure, she over-exaggerates to excess. Her zillion followers then try to emulate her kind of beauty by buying the same surgeon and her cosmetic products in order to achieve this look. But to the non-consumer of social media, not influenced by ‘influencers’, her look is quite cold, even odd. There is no spark of joy coming from her face - some might say more Frankenstein’s daughter than Botticelli’s Venus… The American Dream gone sadly wrong?

Isn’t it therefore interesting that the fragile little white Yoshino is seeing such a revival in our time?

Maybe we can appreciate its fragility more openly now in our postmodern world because we also can speak about our own fragility with less shame?

Perhaps emotional wellbeing and emotional literacy has taken hold at last? Or perhaps after

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the turmoil of this century’s tremendous changes, social upheaval and threats to our very existence by climate change and plague, there is simply a deeper longing for homeostasis, for balance.The little flowers would have seemed tedious in an exuberant time, but the wild sixties are long gone and the roaring thirties can now only be remembered through film for most of us. The sobering eighties and their cousins the greedy nineties did not bring the promised happiness or even basic socio-economic or political Security. Hence maybe now we are perhaps yearning for simpler times, hoping for modest contentment?

Joy – our instinctive reation – is the exuberant feeling that makes our hearts beat faster, our response to beauty. Maybe now we are able to feel that joy seeing the humble cherry blossom, where before we would hope for resplendent bouquets?

Let us now go on a journey through London, not yet much known for its cherry blossom, but scattered full of these generous trees. During the 2019/20 Japanese Cultural Festival in London, 6500 new trees were planted all over the UK. London’s Regents Park alone received a gift of 125 from Japan to enhance a beautiful Yoshino avenue. I assure you, there is much to see!

We will supplement our search for blossom with some historical or cultural context, looking at who lives where they are, or who did live there before.

This is the great attraction of London – so many different layers to explore!

We will look at the contemporary, like the London Eye, now 20 years old, or Guys Hospital built in 1972. The Old Kent Road in South London with its variety of pink trees was not such a pretty place in the murderous Kray twins time. We will take you to the areas in London with the best blossom trees for the best photos.

By exploring these blossoms and their surroundings, you will discover so much about London you didn’t previously know, you’ll find stunning photo opportunities, very Instagrammable…

And you’ll feel your heart leap a little when the beauty of the Blossom greets you..

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The London Eye If you have chosen to walk from Lambeth Bridge to Westminster Bridge to search for blossom, you will soon see ‘THE EYE’, the Londoners affectionate name for this giant structure rising before your very eyes.

The architects of this modern take on a Ferris wheel were a young couple with daring ideas, Julia Barham and David Marks. They dreamed up a 135m high structure with 32 glass capsules. Each holds up to 25 people and has a bench provided for the timid. The Eye feels safe though, moving very slowly, so you can take in the splendid 360 degree views, is simply fabulous and still the highest in Europe.

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The Florence Nightingale Museum is right there, testimony to the amazing woman who first created nurse training – a true pioneer!

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Of course, there were initially fears it would interfere with the views of Parliament or indeed the rooms in the Old London County Hall, now a Marriott hotel. But it is now much loved by all and after 20 years seems to be part of the fabric of London.

It is certainly a top tourist site, so book your tickets well in advance.

You can even book a capsule with Champagne – for a whole Party – a great way to celebrate!

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There are other attractions in and around the Eye: you might want to have a nice glass of wine in the Marriott Bar – or look at its library.

This is the Original Library of the Old County Hall, The Town Hall of London, where the Greater London Council worked for over 64 years.

Prime Minister Thatcher decided that they would be better off working a little further away from Parliament.

But the old debating chamber was left untouched and is often used for cultural performances.

The new County Hall was built 15min walk down the Thames and is known as ‘the Egg’. Guess why – the shape is a bit ‘off’ – but Architect Fosters & Asc. created an extraordinary, extremely sustainable building that became a talking point – so what’s not to love!

Having had your precious ½ hour in the air relishing all the views, you may want to relax and have a boat ride from the Pier-upstream to Tate Modern, downstream to Tate Britain

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You might also have a look at the Florence Nightingale Museum just inside St. Thomas’ Hospital – just walk via the garden, past a lovely fountain. There you will be surprised by a giant dice like Memorial to another nurse sharing the burden of nursing in the Crimean war with the Lady of the Lamp.

Mary Seacole liked to describe herself as Creole, as her father was Scottish and her mother Jamaican. Though less educated and privileged than Nightingale she persisted and trained to become a nurse, then insisted on helping the soldiers in the Crimean War, saving many lives and returned from that war poor and ill – a true heroine.

Such a pity that these capable, headstrong women didn’t work together.

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A little more history with a view?

A huge cherry tree, one of the later flowering variety. A stunning view of the Houses of Parliament right through the Cherry’s gorgeous crown!

Great Britain is known as the cradle of Democracy and The Houses of Parliament embodies this. Who doesn’t love all the pomp and circumstance connected with Britain’s Constitutional Monarchy!

One does wonder though why there still is no written Constitution and that the voting system seems oddly biased towards just two parties. Perhaps the cradle needs a little gentle rocking?

Then you look out across the small green at the giant cherry tree you see the bust of a young woman, the monument to honor the SOE, the Special Operational Agents, often women who operated behind the lines in the second world war. Cate Blanchette film ‘Charlotte Gray’ reminded us of Violet Szabo, one such agent who gave her life for this cause.

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The BFI Imax Crossing Westminster Bridge walk along the Thames to the South Bank Centre, past the Hayward Gallery and The National Theatre, this complex of buildings is the Modern Cultural Centre of London.

At the National Theatre take a sharp right, cross the road and you will see a huge Rotunda in glass. The BFI IMAX, London’s biggest Imax Cinema with the largest screen (20 by 25m), a fantastic way to see the newest films – but also great documentaries like The Flight of the Butterflies or Space Station.

That big cherry tree just beside the Imax is stunning, isn’t it! It is one of two actually. This one flowers early, in end of March – but should you miss it, here is his colleague – just as gorgeous!

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Behind both trees is a rather beautiful old Victorian Building, nowadays milling with students from Notre Dame University. But the Building has its first purpose written in bold letters on the top:’ The Royal Waterloo hospital for children and women’.

Founded in 1824 to ease the shortage of beds for sick women and children. The Victorians were suddenly very aware of having to look after their poor and ill better. So raising donations they set about helping-… plus ca change…. After many owners like Schiller University, it is now The University of Notre Dame of South Bend, Indiana. They have made a dormitory out of it- lucky students!

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Just ahead is Waterloo Bridge – the views up and downstream are very Instagrammable!

The pop group The Kinks feted in ’Waterloo Sunset’, poets and painters loved those views.

Many famous artists have feted London’s bridges in their work: Turner, Canaletto and many more.

You may recall that William Wordsworth wrote this one: Earth has not anything to show more fair Dull would he be of soul who could pass by A sight so touching in its majesty The City now does like a garment, wear The beauty of the morning; silent, bare Ships, towers, theatres, and temples lie Open unto the fields and the sky; All bright and glittering in the smokeless air.

Never did sun more beautifully steep In his first splendour, valley, rock or hill; Ne’er saw I, never felt, a calm so deep!

The river glideth at his own sweet will: Dear God! the very houses seem asleep; And all that mighty heart is lying still!

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The Parks Londoners are justly proud of having so many Parks – they offer more green spaces than any other Metropolis in the world. There are huge ones like Hyde Park and Regent’s Park and smaller ones, Royal ones and Municipal ones.

All offer a wonderful way to breathe, enjoy nature and relax. The Royal Parks were created for the amusement of the aristocracy only, mainly hunting grounds for the King and his friends. But in 1851 the Crown Lands Act was passed – and commoners could enjoy them by ’Grace and favour‘ not as an entitlement – but they are so enjoyable you don’t really care. However, you do wonder why the Crown suddenly was so generous with its properties. Might it be that George the 4th, after spending a little de trop on the Brighton Palace and its extraordinary Chinoiserie, found himself having to make a compromise with Parliament who then payed his rather large bills? His father Charles II was canny enough to buy the world’s largest collection of Canalettos from his bankrupt Ambassador in Venice.

But the fabulous George 4th overdid his mighty building/decorating urge somewhat and accumulated debts instead. After his death, his architect John Nash nearly went into the Tower for his client’s extravagances. Luckily he was freed at the last moment.

Maybe this is how the Royal Parks were created.

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But perhaps it was also the spirit of the time – a young Queen Victoria and her beloved German Prince Albert were central to the Great Exhibition in 1851 and the access for all their people to the parks may well have been a pleasing idea. They have certainly given much joy to all their visitors since that time.

Boris Johnson, when Mayor of London tried to arrange a change of their management, so the Greater London Council would have more power and the Royal Parks assented, but nothing has happened since 2010. Just as well really, considering that the same Boris Johnson happily planned to fell thirty beautiful healthy, old plane trees at the riverbank of the Thames near the National Theatre for what many saw as a vanity project costing many millions! Luckily the plan was thwarted that time. And frankly, why mend something when it is working perfectly? You will agree when you see them, I’m sure!

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The Royal Parks cover almost 2000 hectares (4,900 acres) and all of them differ in style. One very good way to see a big part of them is to do the Princess of Wales Memorial Walk, 11km marked with 89 individual plaques. We will consider only the parks with the best blossom of course!

Let us first look at a little jewel of a park just in front of Buckingham Palace, easily combined with the daily Parade ‘The Changing of the Guards’.

St. James Park is small, only 57 acres, but stunning. You can walk around its lake easily in an hour – and you will see extraordinary things like the pelicans. They have been here for nearly 400 years – gifted to Charles II by the Russian Ambassador. Even Prime Minister Johnson loves St. James Park – as he can be seen at 8am on a Saturday taking his ’perambulations’.

But more interesting for our purpose of course is that it has the loveliest cherry blossom trees.

Easy to recognise the background to these beautiful red blossom trees!

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Across the Mall from The Institute of Contemporary Arts are some beautiful white ones. Take your pick!

The Institute of Contemporary Art is a renowned Gallery for modern art and presents cutting-edge exhibitions and films. Their events attract the ‘in crowd’. Their restaurant Rochelle Canteen offers great food and a very easy-going bar refreshments after walking through St. James Park - what could be nicer! So cross the Mall and recall all those amazing events that take place here – golden coaches with crowned heads of state, bands in bearskin hats marching towards Buckingham Palace.

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Walking round the lake you will see the most splendid Yoshino tree of the weeping variety, best in the park – a pink beauty.

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Passing by the lake, some white late trees –and with the Foreign office as a background again a collection of light pink early ones, so you can enjoy the daffodils at the same time.

With history all around you, the Cabinet War rooms, the back of Horse Guards, Clarence House and Whitehall, it will be hard to give all your attention to the beauty of the trees – but do try! History will always be there, the blossom only lasts for a brief time. Mid-March to mid-April are often the best times to see the blossom in London, but do check!!

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And for a light snack in these beautiful surroundings you can sit in the café with a coffee, right by the lake and let the world go by. People from all corners of the Earth come to feed the squirrels, admire the pelicans and of course – gasp at the beauty of the Cherry-Blossom.

St.James’Park is small I think you will agree – small is beautiful!

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