Source by lucy whitehead

AUTUMN 13

FOREWORD

A clothing brand with soul will always reflect the personality and style of the founder and, I guess, this is true of our brand at Universal Works. Whilst you may be aware of our love for quality clothing, you might just be wondering what ‘Source’ means to us, and more importantly what it can mean to you. We decided to create Source as a means to share the excitement of finding myself and my team’s inspirations behind each collection, and to celebrate individual places of interest that act as a catalyst for our creativity along the way. By combining universal aspects of travel and lifestyle, Source represents a journey of visual discovery that we’d like you to be a part of, whether you may be a Brussels or a Blackpool kind of guy. Each issue will explore a specific place that is special to Universal Works, underpinned by our love of food and that pursuit of a great dish often found in the most normal of places. Perhaps the same as finding that particular shade of denim you’ve always been after; finding something as simple as a great sausage a million miles from home is a joyful thing to discover. This isn’t an excuse to show you how marvellous our lives are, nor an opportunity to tell you what you should and shouldn’t eat or visit, its simply our way of sharing our journey with you and perhaps picking up a steak bake or two along the way as we believe these quirks of everyday life can be the most important. At this point you may be wondering what ‘The Santoku’ issue is and perhaps what it even means, but it is this very item that has sparked our inspiration for the Autumn collection for 2013. A Santoku is a multi-purpose Japanese knife that quite simply means ‘three virtues’. It is a strong, sturdy knife that is reliable and long lasting, not dissimilar to your favourite trusty raincoat. We picked up one of these on a recent trip to Tokyo, a place where every detail, every aspect of everyday life is carefully considered. This meticulous approach to design really represented a time to stop and reflect amongst an ever changing, ever expanding country that seems to move at one hundred miles an hour, despite a bitter cold that would even put us complaining Brits to shame. But like the Santoku, our autumn collection is built upon this idea of feeling comfortable and well equipped, a companion that will last a life time whether that be to chop a hefty steak or to warm up your winter boots.

Da v id a n d th e Tea m .

SPECIALITIES TSUKIJI

perfect for an early riser

UNCOOKED

served with a hefty portion of outsider art

THREE VIRTUES

with your choice of rice, noodles or perhaps a chunky knit

THE SANTOKU

the chefs favourite, hand-made and perfectly simple

SIDES A UNIVERSAL RECIPE

DEAR MAEKAKE

R E C O M M E N D AT I O N S

Tsukiji On a culinary journey across Tokyo, we explore basashi, why green leafs are so popular and how the Japanese climate makes food look amazing.

Food is one of the richest parts of any culture. Our 13th business trip to Toyko was as insightful as the first. Every time we travel, whether it’s Jersey or Japan, it’s so easy to discover new and unique ingredients that we ignored the last time. With a busy work schedule, Stef and I always find time to walk around central Tokyo’s famous food market, Tsukiji. If you’re going to go half way across the world and grab your coffee from Starbucks, or your lunch from Pret then you just be missing a trick; I believe in being a lot more adventurous. Ironically the free sample of a raw horse meat dish caught my attention this time around Tsukiji, probably due to whats been going on in the UK supermarket sector recently. When sliced thinly and eaten raw it is called basashi, and is known as a popular entree, quite similar to Stef’s favourite Steak Tartar. I would be lying if I said we didn’t try it; how could we resist? It’s actually not too bad, if not a bit fleshy, but I doubt it’s going to make a debut in England any time soon. On the subject of meat, Japan is well know for its Kobi beef, and just beef in general. It’s reared differently and has a kind of marbled effect because the fat is left in. The Japanese don’t have the obsession with fat that us Brits have; it’s actually the tastiest bit. We have the notion that if you eat fat then it makes you fat, yet they are quite different things but just happen to be the same word. Tsukiji is massive; over ten wholesale markets that handle fish, produce, meat and flowers, as well as restaurants. It’s a kind of all day visit when we go; trying out the free samples that stalls are giving away and buying savory things we can take back home with us to try out. Green tea KitKats are always on the list that keep us going in the studio, I mean who doesn’t like green chocolate? It’s mad! On the odd occasion we get persuaded into buying meat or fish, but nothing can beat even the cheapest dinner out in Tokyo. Each dish is made with extreme precision- even those at the airport on the way home. And as a country obsessed with attention to detail, and its land dried up during the cold, dry winters, that little bit of greenery placed on every dish reminds us how visually beautiful and natural food should be. Even if its a cheap takeaway, that green foliage will sit upon your noodles to bring more than just your taste senses alive.

With around 15 different eateries at the market, we try to avoid going back to the same one twice. To be fair, each meal is equal to or better than the last- Japanese cuisine fails to disappoint. The quality of their food is always excellent, so it’s hard to not want to eat out. It’s also a intimate experience; a communal, tapas style where you get loads of different dishes and are expected to share with others on your table. Even if you’re sitting with complete strangers, who speak a completely different language to you, food is the art of conversation and meeting new people. Atrip to Tsukiji’s market wouldn’t be complete without visiting the tuna auction. Visitors are limited to 120 a day on a first come first serve basis, and tourists have to apply for entry at a steep 5am! We’ve never bid, (not sure how we’d get a Tuna fish home) but it’s more about watching the locals create this great atmosphere surrounding a giant fish. So who knows whats next for a Japanese inspired Universal Works collection? Sushi trousers anyone?

To my palate, Toyko has the most beautiful food in Japan, and to my eyes: the most arid scenery in the Winter months.

is n r e t t e pa g bo n n i r r Th e e b l es d H ca l l e e i t r es e m o f s b eca u s k e l e to n is h . f th e ing r r e H a

A n g l e r wa i s t c o at I N Ja p a n e s e herringbone Dresses: 1 The Universal Works version of a Fisherman’s jacket, beloved of many Japanese fashionista and Joseph Beuys, one of my style icons. My personal favourite item any season. Clearly, I am a man in need of many pockets! 2.5 metres of Japanese Herringbone fabric (cut on the bias) 5 large brown shell buttons to hand stitch 4 small brown shell buttons to hand stitch 6 metres of 100% Indigo Dyed Cotton Yarn, sewn in a running stitch Ribbed Sweat Collar cut into a 2.5” x 32” strip 1.5 metre of Cotton and polyester blend thin wadding 2.5 metres of Cotton Lining pressed 1 Universal Works cotton label

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N o od l e s, esp e c ia l l y s o ba a re s l u rp e som ew d h at l ou d l y wh en ea te n. h as It b een s l u rp i n s a id g in d i ca te th e f o o s d is d e l i c io us .

Ja pa n e s e B e e f w i t h S o b a N o o d l e s Serves: 1 One of the most authentic and famous Japanese dishes that I always enjoy. Every time we visit Tokyo we aim to find a restaurant that can serve this meal better than the last; it’s become a Universal Works tradition. 5 tbsp dark soy sauce 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tbsp cornflour 1 tsp wasabi paste (Japanese horseradish) 100 g of lean sirloin steak, trimmed of fat and cut into strips 300 g (10½ oz) soba (Japanese buckwheat noodles) 2 tbsp sunflower oil 1 bunch of spring onions, sliced diagonally into 5 cm (2 in) lengths 750 ml (1¼ pints) dashi stock, made with dashi powder 1 sheet nori (Japanese seaweed), cut into thin strips

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UNCOOKED Even in quite ordinary places in Japan people will have spent some time thinking about the way something looks. A potted plant outside any front door will be completely considered, with 3 pots because 3 is a good number and a bit of green included because that is how you should visually see nature; they will have absolutely considered everything about the way you see their front door because that is important. Clearly I’m just an observer from the outside so it might be really, really difficult to live with, thinking ‘oh fuck I’ve got to think how I make my front door look again’ but the point is that this attitude to presentation is important. The word ‘souzou’ defines this. It is an elusive word that has variant spellings that capture two meanings: creation or imagination; both alluding to a force by which new ideas are born and take shape in the world, even an offshoot for insanity. Maybe they’re not aware of it and maybe it’s just an inherent interest I have, but there is no English equivalent for the term which perhaps leaves me wanting to know more.

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But, in the title of a current exhibition at Wellcome Collection in London, Souzou becomes a cognitive trigger that precedes the term Outsider Art, the first major showcase of Japanese art of its kind in the UK. ‘Outsider Art’ is something of a contradiction, an awkward label that derives from a slight mistranslation. With connotations of rawness, of unfettered creation, of positive nonconformity; to translate literally, outsider art means raw art: uncooked. If you were to open a store tomorrow in any city you’re going to make it look attractive aren’t you, you’ll have a nice window and think about the colour you paint outside, because we understand that’s how you attract customers and that’s how you make your brand appear interesting. But certainly us Brit’s aren’t always brave or even bothered about taking these risks in our everyday lives, as who cares about a potted plant other than your Auntie Peg? But this Japanese ability to create an interesting, bold vision out of something so simple is very apparent in the exhibition, a perfect juxtaposition of purity and possibility. Opening its doors on September 21st, Souzou delivers a cultural visualization of strangeness and difference with a universal appeal, a glance into this world that I too find so mesmerizing.

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THREE VIRTUES

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Bakers Jacket Melton County Hat Kersey

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This page: Bakers Jacket Opposite page: Seri Pinstripe Suit Chino Pants

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Light Wool Roll Neck

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Warm Camo Gillet

Grey and White Gun Sock

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Pilot Shirt Poplin

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This page: Urban Cap Polar Wool Next page: Aston Cord Pants Photography by Mae Kenny.

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The Santoku Knife (also know as the bunka bĹ?chĹ?)

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Our business takes us to some subtlety beautiful places, not only in England, but all around the world. When traveling around northern Toyko, Stef and I were passing through a town called Ueno, visiting an independent family ran factory that we are now actually using to manufacture a selection of pieces from this Autumn Winter range. After a bitter cold morning exploring the factory and talking numbers, the owners, Mr and Mrs Sato took us to their local eatery for some lunch. The exterior; pretty average looking, a grey-stone brick house with an organised mess of shrubbery. The interior; a busy yet pleasant surprise of Ueno locals, enjoying their early supper. The open plan kitchen was the main attraction to this place. As we sat down, it was a struggle to take our eyes off the chef and his fast culinary movements. What caught my attention was not the food, but the equipment he was using; a Japanese carbon steel bladed knife. He sliced, diced and minced various ingredients rapidly. The tool stood out as a perfect equilibrium, with the blades’ geometry incorporating the ‘sheep’s foot’ tip. It was not an option to go back to our studio in Nottingham without one of these knifes, so I guess our visit to Mr and Mrs Sato is how the ball got rolling to not only present to you garments, but as well, tools. The story about the birth of the Santoku knife started in the year 1920 when a housewife needed to find a new knife that could be used for slicing meat perfectly, but the problem was she didn’t know what knife to buy and that knives in that era were very expensive. But then somebody told her that that kind of thinking of using separate knives in cutting meat and vegetables was just myth in their time and then Santoku was born. The unholy marriage of both knives, which are the gyuto and nakiri, is embodied in the creation of Santoku; wherein you are able to cut meat as perfectly as cutting all manner of vegetables and fruit. On the other hand, the makers of the Samurai Swords had their own way of making another beautiful masterpiece so that their worthiness would not die out by making the first Japanese Chef Knife which is also called the Santoku Knife. In making the Santoku Knife, the same process is being followed that produced the legendary carbon steel blades that are found in Samurai Swords, many generations ago. This new innovation spread across the East at the speed of lightning, creating a huge buzz. Chefs’ all over the world admired the quality and brilliance of the Santoku, and considered it as a secret weapon in cooking. But believe it or not, the price of this multipurpose piece of art would cost a years salary at the time. The Santoku is made from perfect carbon steel metal called Tamahagan, which has fine characteristics. For our current generation the quality of the Santoku Knife is still considered to be the best; its multiple functions echo that of our garments, so that you can get the most wear and tear out of them, hence why we feel it is so necessary to share this tool with you.

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This strong wood handle provides good grip and is warm in your hand, but they are more difficult to care for than other materials. They do not resist water well, and will crack or warp with prolonged use, so make sure you dry well after cleaning.

Carbon steel has a good edge when sharpened properly and regularly, and it is a much harder material for using in knife construction. Carbon steel knives corrode more easily and need to be oiled on a regular basis.

HANDLE

RIVET

BUTT

TANG

CHOIL

HEEL Forged laminated stainless steel cladding is employed on this Japanese santoku knife to improve strength and rust resistance while maintaining a hard edge. Knives possessing these expensive laminated blades are generally considered to be the ultimate expression of quality in a genuine Japanese santoku.

The Santokuâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s blade and handle are carefully designed to work in harmony by matching the bladeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s width/ weight to the weight of blade tang and handle, and this makes it an especially well-balanced knife.

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The top of the Santoku’s handle is in line with the top of the blade, giving your fingers plenty of room underneath.

Debossed etching on the blade symbolises where this knife was manufactured, with the designer’s name skillfully tapped on.

ETCHING

Between five and eight inches long, has a flat edge and a sheepsfoot blade that curves in an angle approaching 60 degrees at the point. Japanese knives typically incorporate a chisel-tip; sharpened on one side.

SPINE

TIP

BELLY

Santoku blade geometry incorporates the ‘sheep’s foot” tip. A sheep’s foot design essentially draws the spine down to the front, with very little clearance above the horizontal cutting plane when the blade is resting naturally from heel to forward cutting edge

The Santoku’s sharp, tough cutting blade makes the knife ideal for most of your ordinary kitchen cutting chores. Since the blade is not curved, use a vertical motion with the blade.

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D e a r M a e k a ke , As you hang on the wall of my studio I write to you with thanks. A garment designed to protect again workmanship and crafts which has so inspired my own collections. Your thick overdyed canvas transfers perfectly to outerwear to shield the man from the icy cold of Osaka and the persistent drizzle of Preston, where ever he might be. A piece of essential wear which stands the test of time and transcends generations, never overly designed or emblazoned, a pure utilitarian piece fitting for life and work. I ask myself each time I put pen to paper how can this element to my collection fit the needs of trans-global wearers and their day to day routines, what are the priorities of this jacket? What does the man who puts of this pair of twill pants set out to achieve today? Your thick woven ties show me the importance of durability and security and translate to every cuff and every hemline created for the Universal Workâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s man. Your form has shown me how to create honest clothing for the man who sets out to live each day with purpose. In Thanks, David.

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R e c o m m e n d at i o n s What we hope you’ll enjoy.

Check out this great space that Tokyo based label Undercover have opened in Seoul, Korea. For Takahashi fans, expect a pairedback layout and an extensive selection of the latest and greatest from UNDERCOVER.

With its first international location, NYC based Freemans Sporting Club has opened the doors of its retail store in the Minami-Aoyama district in Tokyo. Taavo Somer’s bespoke men’s style destination will not only offer custom tailoring but also a one-stop shop that’s less a store and more an excuse to “pick up a new, fresh button-down” and make a whole day of it.

2/F 656-10 Shinsa-dong, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul South Korea

5-46-4

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Jingumae Shibuya, Tokyo

Bridging the bonsai gap, Higoi is a little bit of Tokyo in Nottingham, just around the corner from Universal Works HQ. Opened in 1989 by Mr Kato, Higoi delivers expertly crafted, authentic cuisine for any sushi first timers.

Along with filling our suitcases with fabrics and trinkets, I couldn’t leave Asia without a tube of this hot chilli sauce (and not just because it’s packaged so well). Add it to any dish for a quick kick to awaken your tastebuds, but don’t confuse the red for ketchup!

57 Lenton Blvd Nottingham, Nottinghamshire County NG7 2FQ

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Universal Works.