An exploration of zine design

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Introduction 4-5

Field of Study 6-25

History 26-33

Focus 34-47

Case Studies 48-65

Theory 66-75

Conclusion 76-77 Personal Reflection 78-79 Bibliography 80-83

Appendices 84-97

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In this final major project I will be publishing my dissertation as a zine. I decided to print my dissertation as I wanted to be able to focus on editorial design as that is where my biggest interest within graphic design. My dissertation focuses on the representation of women in high street fashion. Furthermore, I wanted to focus on print design as I feel this is a way to be able to connect closely with the target audience. I have chosen to print my dissertation as a zine because of the history feminist zines have created.

Throughout this research book I will be focusing on general study of magazine and editorial design and then a focus of zines and specifically feminist zines. I will also have a number of case studies and theory research which will help my design focus on creating a zine. To also help strengthen my understanding on what a zine is and to help me understand my personal design practise.

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In this workshop we were asked to bring different magazines to then rip up and use to create different editorial spreads. We did a series of quick fire rounds to create different spreads. Then we were asked to select other peoples spreads and improve or create different editorial designs with them. This was a very fast pace workshop and it was interesting to see the kind of designs I was creating when not over thinking the design of the spreads. I really enjoyed this process of taking elements of different designs to then create a new editorial spread design. This process I think could be interesting to use in my final outcome for my zine designs. Using other peoples typefaces as well as cutting up and experimenting with scanning in my own spread designs could make an interesting effect.

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Hypebeast magazine is a new streetwear fashion/ lifestyle magazine which follows new and current trends within the streetwear industry. I wanted to look more closely at this magazine because of the design styles they have used. Throughout the magazine they have used different types of paper, layout, and page scales. In this magazine to help focus on the photographers and fashion designers featuring in each issue they change the scale of the pages to have a focused amount of images of their collaborators work. I felt this was a really interesting concept to have as it means you can control what the narrative for audience. This is something I would like to focus on is the narrative for my target audience. The things I would like to consider are: what helps keep an interesting flow through my research book and outcome, what pace would these books be and how to change the target audiences focus within different sections throughout my research book and outcome.

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“Today’s digital world is ever more ephemeral, and our attention spans and capacity for in-depth engagement seem to decrease in inverse proportion”

This online article has helped shown me the importance of editorial design and print design. This article discusses different book throughout out the years to show how books have endured. I felt this article helps show why I wanted to create a zine in the first place. It is a way of connecting further with your audience.

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Editorial is an independent magazine for art and fashion.

The publications run quarterly from Montreal, Canada. I have chosen to look at this magazine to help my research in editorial design because of the style of layout they have throughout their magazines. As I will be publishing my dissertation I wanted to look at magazines that are more text heavy as my dissertation is 5,000 words.

In Editorial Magazine I really like how they break up the text with different spacings and images and icons within the spreads. This is something which would be interesting to experiment with as my publication will also be text heavy.

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When researching into different ways type can be printed and focusing on the style of language which I could use throughout my outcome. When watching a show on Netflix called Explained I discovered an episode explaining the use of an explanation point. This helped me gain an understanding on how important use of language in print design is. The use of an explanation point can easily change the dynamic of a page or create a more casual style for the print design.

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On a trip to London I was able to go to the store Magma.

This store is a book/magazine shop. It was really good to see the different styles of magazines in this store. I noticed that a lot of the magazines often used limited colours. I really liked this effect I felt this could be interesting to experiment with in my research book and my zine outcome. I also used this opportunity to look at the different types of paper used to print these books and magazines. Personally, the most effective styles were the magazines which used a matte soft paper whereas the other magazines which used a gloss paper I felt lost the effect of the design. The gloss made the text hard to read and when trying to look at the designs in different lights, it distorted the overall style of the magazines. This is something I will take into consideration when printing my research book and zine outcome.

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The Gentlewoman is a magazine which celebrates modern women of style and purpose. The magazine was created to offer a fresh perspective on fashion which focuses on how women actually look, think and dress.

I wanted to look more closely at The Gentlewoman because of the specific style they have created as a feminist magazine. They have been able to create a professional editorial style while celebrating women.

This creates a different look for how feminist magazines have been produced previously when looking at traditional feminist magazines which were created in the 1980/1990’s.

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History

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History

This is a brief history of zines and how they are made.

Zines are handmade and self-published print media. Zines are handmade and self-published print media. They are often created from personal perspective and cover many topics mainstream culture does not acknowledge. The term zine was first created in 1930/40s which covered topics such as sci-fi fandoms.

The punk subculture embraced zines in 1970 as a way of creating music journalism for punk bands and they utilised the DIY style of zines. They created a ‘rough around the edges’ aesthetic and became an important communication within the punk subculture, especially for women.

In the early 1990s riot grrrl began as a feminist punk movement. Riot grrrls used zines to discuss their personal experiences with sexism and other issues.

This helps show me why I felt creating a zine of my dissertation was the best way to publish it. In my dissertation I discuss many issues to do with sexism and body positivity. It is still an ongoing issue and I felt using the inspiration of feminist zines could help me present the text in the right way.

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History

Fig.39 Riot Grrrl is an underground feminist movement zine which started in the 1990s. Riot Grrrls were seen as activists, publishers and performers.

I wanted to look into this zine further as they created a big part in underground zine culture. The style of these zines I want to be able to use within my dissertation publication. My dissertation discusses a lot of modern day feminist movements and opinions. To help show the feminist discussion I want to be able to bring the traditional movement back into the design of my publication.

To help my design work I will use black and white and one colour designs to help understand the effect of underground zine styles and the techniques of scanning and cut and paste.

Riot Grrrl has an unkept relaxed style which is something I would also like to create in my publication.

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A fan zine is a magazine written by people who are particular fans of a person or group. Fanzines are magazines which are created in a DIY style this is because they’re not made my professional publishing companies. They are made by using printer scanners and cut and paste.

Fanzines are also known for their honestly and discussing topics which are not normally using within professional magazines and are seen as controversial and against the mainstream population. This is something which I feel relates well to my dissertation. Throughout I discuss the idea of feminism and body positivity; something which is often not looked upon, because of this I felt using the style of fanzines to publish my dissertation will help show how the discussion of feminism and women’s appearances haven’t changed a lot and using this style still works for discussing something which still isn’t the norm.

Like Riot Grrrl I want to use the style of fanzines to help create my dissertation publication. I will be focusing on the way a scanner can change the images you are inputting and how using one colour throughout the zine can effect the design.

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Focus

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Emigre is a graphic design magazine published between 1984 and 2005 and are most known for their typeface designs.

This is what I wanted to focus on when looking at Emigre, the typefaces. Although Emigre has interesting designs which are very inspirational. I want to focus on their typefaces because of their unusual style.

Taking inspiration from their typefaces I feel could be really interesting to use within my publications of my dissertation.

Printing and cutting up the typefaces and scanning them in could make some unusual effects which could then help me create my own versions of Emigre styles.

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Mushpit zine was founded in 2011 as an alternative women’s magazine. I wanted to look further into Mushpit magazine because of their use of colour and layout design. Within Mushpit their layout designs seem almost chaotic but in sync with what they are discussing and stand for. Taking inspiration from Mushpit I want to focus on how my layout designs will look with the idea of using different elements on the page. For example, large typefaces, vibrant colours, and unusual page furniture.

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Within this workshop we were able to experiment with using the materials foil and flock. To be able to create designs we printed designs using glue. To create these designs we either used paint brushes or a screen and stencil to print more structured, detailed designs.

Creating the foil designs, once the glue design had dried, we used a hot iron plate and placed the different foil colours over the glue design and clamped the iron plates together for 12 seconds. This then stuck the foil material to the glue design to create different coloured patterns.

Using the flock material is the same process, however you are able to use ink onto the material to create patterns or different colours for your designs.

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These are my outcomes from the flock and foil workshop.

Instead of creating images I wanted to focus on creating different patterns. To begin with I found it quite challenging to control the way I wanted the patterns to turn out. Through trail and error I found using flock and foil cannot ways create the outcome you want. This process ended up helping me relax with this workshop and understand that not everything can’t be perfectly produced, I want to continue this mentally when creating my zine outcome. Zines are known and unfiltered publications and I would like to learn a new way of designing because of this.

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I wanted to create a questionnaire for my target audience to help understand what they want from a zine and what areas they feel women magazines still do not cover. My target audience focuses on women aged 18 - 25 who have an interest in fashion and print design. These results showed me that a lot of the women I asked felt that women are not represented fairly in magazines and that magazines do not cover seriously issues like eating disorders. This has shown me that creating a zine on women representation is still something which is very relevant today and an issue which still needs to be discussed.

I also wanted to ask the question of what women think of the colour pink in design and magazines. Most said they felt they liked the colour but it still comes with a lot of stigma behind the colour. A couple even felt that pink often works really well depending on the context and the type of pink used. I wanted to ask this question because I noticed that a lot of women magazines still use floral colours and I want to be able to use these colours but in a more vibrant and effective way. I felt the colour pink is something which would work well as a protest colour to help try and change the stigmatism behind it. You can find the results of this questionnaire within the appendices section.

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Bitchcraft magazine is a zine created by the band Bitchcraft.

I wanted to look into this zine because of the use of traditionally made cup and paste zine style they have. I feel as if Bitchcraft is a good example of what a fanzine really is. The band created this zine for the fans about women empowerment and feminism. I felt this style they had created for their zine is very powerful with the use of no colour just a black and white style. Taking inspiration from this zine, when creating my own I would like to consider the use of one or no colours for the design. As well as the idea of using different orientations for each spread. This I feel creates a different narrative for the zine and helps keep the audience interested in the different styles.

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Case Study

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Polyester is a London based zine created by Lone Gamble, which explores feminism and gender identity through fashion. Looking at this zine as a case study I felt the zine itself relates well to what I discuss within my dissertation. My dissertation discusses feminism through fashion and the role of women in fashion today. This is also what Polyester focuses on. As a result I felt it could be interesting to use Polyester design styles within my publication of my dissertation.

The aspects of Polyester I would like to focus on are the colours they use and the style of hand drawn and unusual typefaces. The use of colours are interesting as they’re bold colours which almost clash within their designs. I think this creates almost a distorted look on the pages just with the use of colour. This is something I would like to experiment with when publishing my dissertation.

In an interview with Stacks magazine they did an insight into how they create each issue for Polyester. What I found most interesting was they read a lost of zines which inspirer them and remind them of why they use printed zines and they use different aspects from those zines. This is something I will take into account when creating my own zine.

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Linda Stupart is an artist, writer and educator and is also known for her creation of zines and zine workshops.

She has recently done a workshop with the Tate Modern on zine designs. This workshop focuses on understanding feminism, colour and the use and creation of DIY zines.

I found her process really interesting as she gets you to focus on the meaning of why you are discussing this topic within your zine. The Tate workshop for example is about the body and thinking through gender and building different worlds. This really showed me the importance of zines. It’s not just about how the design looks but its the information you are giving to people and the way you are presenting it is just as important. When designing my zine of my dissertation I want to make sure that the way I am presenting these words help people reflect on the idea of feminism in fashion and the importance of body positivity within advertising.

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BRICKS is a feminist magazine which explores fashion and an art from a socio-political lens. The magazine allows for emerging creatives to showcase their work through the magazine.

BRICKS magazine is more of an editorial magazine rather than a zine with a DIY style. The reason I wanted to focus Bricks magazine as a case study is because of the use of large scale and the content which is produced within the magazine. The main focus of this case study is the large scale text. I really like the idea of using text across a whole spread and the use of negative space in doing so. This is something I will experiment with when creating my zine or in my research book.

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Case Study

Funhouse magazine was founded by Oliver Zarandi and is an illustration literary magazine which has a focus on bodies.

What I wanted to focus on when looking into Funhouse magazine was their use of body text within their spreads and the use of one colour throughout the magazine. As I am publishing my dissertation I wanted to look for zines which use more body text which you would normally get within a zine. I found that Funhouse managed to split up their text and make it more breathable by using illustrations in unusual areas of the page and different intonations throughout the text. To help with my experimentations for my zine I will use the idea of breaking ups texts with images to help create a more light-hearted style to the page. As well as using Polyester magazines idea of bright and bold colours I will also use the idea of using one or two colours throughout the zine.

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Cheap Date originally started in London in1997 by British editor Bay Garrnett and stylist Kira Joliffe. The magazine was created for people who love thrifting for fashion. They wanted to be able to put the fun back into fashion.

I wanted to look into this magazine as a case study because of the style they have created for a fashion zine.

As well as focusing on feminist zines I wanted to see different styles of fashion magazine. Cheap Date I felt has an original, unique style. The use of cut and paste helps shows that the magazine is not just about fashion but thrifted reusable fashion. I felt the content and the style links well together by creating a style of reused typefaces and editorial spreads. Linking my zine content and the editorial style is something I will consider when creating my publication of my dissertation.

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Girl zine: making media, doing feminism is a book which I felt really helped me understand the use of zines when linked with feminism. The book goes into detail about when zines were first created and how zine are represented in today world when its biggest competition is digital media. It has shown me how zines have been a way of connecting to people in ways social media may not be able to. Zines discuss topics which are often seen as taboo, they are able to create a connection with people when they think the issues they’re going through are wrong.

I feel that this links well to what I am trying to achieve when creating my own zine. My dissertation is based on representation of women in fashion and discusses the effects fashion can have on women. By publishing my dissertation as a zine I feel this can be a way of promoting to people how fashion can be seen in a different way.

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I wanted to look into Noma Bar and his book Negative Space because of they way he uses his art on a page. I feel his abstract style is an interesting way of presenting a book. I feel that looking into his work will help me get an understanding on how to use space in a design and once the book is printed.

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This book consists of many different zines which have been created over the years. I wanted to look into this book more because of the amount of different zine I have been able to look at which has helped my design decisions. As these are self-published zines I felt this were more relatable to what I am trying to achieve rather than zines which are more editorial branded publications. My main focus when using this book for my research was to focus on the different typefaces used, the scale of type and the layout designs. The ones I felt were most successful to me I have circled. These zines I felt all used type in different ways. I really liked the use of the large scale and the hand written elements within these images. This is something I will take forward when creating my zine.

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Type at Work is a book I often go back to throughout my different projects. This is because of the use of different styles you can find within this book and how it focuses on the use of type in editorial design. When researching with this book I wanted to specifically look at the use of body text. My dissertation is 5,000 words which makes the body text a lot when creating a small zine. Type at Work has helped me focus on how a large amount of body text can look. I have also found other pages of treated text or images within a spread design. I have circled the elements which have helped my design inspiration. A lot of the treated text and images look as if they have been photoshopped and distorted. This is something I would like to experiment with when creating my zine.

Furthermore, using a scanner could also create interesting type and image treatments which is something I would like to take further for my zine designs.

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Based on my research I am going to create a zine with inspiration focusing on the zines Riot Grrrl and Polyester. I want to focus on these zines because of the use of colour and DIY style they both have created within their zines. They have been able to achieve an individual style for the zines created and this is something I would like to be able to create. From my research I have also found how the use of language in text is just as important as the design. As I would like to create my own feminist zine the language used in it has to be set in the right tone otherwise the message I would like to create could be lost or misunderstood. As a result I would like to focus on specific typefaces which could also help the communication of my dissertation in a zine. I will take inspiration from magazines I have looked at such as Emigre to experiment with different styles.

From this I also want to focus on the way this zine will be made. Although I will be using the software InDesign to create the structure of this zine. I will also be using a scanner to cut and paste elements into the zine to create an individual style. I want to use a scanner as I feel this can create more interesting, unique and raw edge effect throughout the zine. From taking inspiration from the history of how zines are created from the 1990s like the zine Riot Grrrl I will use similar styles they have created as well as using more modern typefaces to help keep on trend with my young women target audience.

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In this final major project, I decided to make a publication of my dissertation and the publication to be a zine. I wanted to focus on editorial design as I felt this area of graphic design has my biggest interest.

I chose to create a zine as I felt this related more to my dissertation. My dissertation focuses on women’s representation in high street fashion. I cover topics such as body positivity and feminist views and representation.

As my dissertation covers these topics I felt creating my feminist zine would relate well to the history of what zines are, and the use of creating a community.

When creating my zine outcome I found creating an individual style was challenging. I firstly focused on creating a zine on InDesign and making a purely digital zine. By doing this I found that the zine was lacking the style of what a zine is originally known for, the DIY aesthetic. From taking inspiration from zines such as Riot Grrrl and Bitchcraft, which can be seen in my research book, I found that their designs were much more relaxed and have an untidy look to the zine. This has shown me how you do not always need to have full control over what you are designing. Creating this zine helped me with my reflective practise in understanding that not all design work has to be perfect.

My design process for creating this zine was printing my dissertation to the typeset I wanted within the zine and then ripping up the body text to create a textured look to the edges. I also ripped up part of the text to create some unusual breaks within the body text. I found that I could not control the way the paper ripped for out the body text would look in the result. However, I felt this worked in my favour and a lot of mistakes I made when ripping the body text created the best overall look for the zine.

I also found this when using the scanner to scan in the text and the images. To begin with, I was using the scanner just as a way to transfer the text and images and put them into a digital form. This however made my spread designs too simple for a zine. To create more interesting designs I decided to use the scanner but move the text and images as it was scanning. I liked how every scan I did I did not know how the outcome would be. This helped me create an individual style for my zine one of which I felt relates well to what a traditional zine is known to be but with the use of modern typography and styles.

Another issue I found when creating my zine was knowing which was the right use of colour. In my research, I noticed a lot of feminist magazines still used the use of pink and modern pastel colours. To begin with, I use a modern light colour palette however this washed out the zine and did not create a good impact when testing it on my target audience.

I decided to create a questionnaire to find out what my target audience wants to see. I asked how they felt about the use of pink within a print design. Most of the responses were positive but it all depended on the type of pink used within a zine and how it is used. Taking inspiration from Polyester, a zine which I focused on in one of my case studies. I found that using vibrant colours help the print design stand out. I felt if I was to use a bright pink colour it would have to be as one colour throughout the zine. To then create some depth in the zine I also used a contrasting red. Overall I feel the zine I have created I have been able to achieve an individual style, taking inspiration from zines such as Riot Grrrl and Polyester.

This final major project has shown me to have more patients with my design work. I found not everything has to be done perfectly and that mistakes happen and can often help change your project for the better. When creating my research book it showed me the importance of understanding the history of zines and this helped me understand why my dissertation printed as a zine was the right publication to design. In my future design work, I would like to take forward the use of turning my mistakes into part of my design work as often they create the best part of the design. I would also like to have more confidence in my design skills. When creating my zine, to begin with, I struggled to have any confidence in what I was creating and it took me a long time to design anything. In the future, I would like to be able to have confidence in what I am making and know that things are adaptable and always work better than you think they will.

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An exploration of zine design is a research book created to help my design focus on creating a zine publication of my dissertation. This book will focus on elements such as: what a zine is, the history of zines, the zines which will help my design development and other editorial research to help my focus. This research book will help explain my narrative as to how I will create the zine outcome.