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THE ORGANIC 70’S ISSUE
BEAUTITUDE
THE FOREST CAFE EDINBURGH
A social revolution. A new awareness. Sense of community. Health without the hashtag.
Getting to the roots of it, this natural beauty brand owner wants to take things back a notch.
A place emphsising you can love what you eat and the world around you at the same time
Heriot Watt School of Textiles and Design Tel: +44 (0) 8700 50 51 52 Email: enquiries@tex.hw.ac.uk
LUCY PROCTOR Editor
KIRSTIN SMITH Sub - Editor
ALAN BLACK
NICOLE DICKOV
SIERA HODGESON
EMMA FARQUHAR
LOUISE MAIR
P H O T O G R A P H Y, S T Y L I N G & C A S T I N G LOUISE MAIR MAKE-UP NICOLE DICKOV ASSISTANT LUCY PROCTOR
WOMEN IN SUITS White on cream on beige on .... orange?. Unless you’ve equipped your life with Pantone swatches, you’ll never find a perfect palette match, but that doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy the evocative power of colour’s hue-and-fro.
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INTERVIEW EMMA FARQUHAR AS S I S TAN T S SIERA HODGESON
Jake Harvey The native scotsman studied sculpture at Edinburgh College of Art (1966 - 72) and went on to become the Head of the School of Sculpture for eleven years. He is currently Emeritus Professor of Sculpture. This issue he discusses his views on art and how it’s changed over the past forty years.
Do your life experiences influence your work? Yes I suppose that automatically comes through no matter what you do, I think that autobiographical experiences impact my work but more than that I look to archaeology and archaeological artefacts not just here in Scotland or the UK but from some of the places I’ve travelled such as Japan, China, Peru, Mexico, Brazil and America as well as many other European countries. All in all my influences are pretty broad. I also look at art and artists before me and once I’ve took my bearings from that I’ll move onto something new.
and once you’ve got your idea you would then choose how you were going to manifest that, for instance now there’s a lot more use of film as art. I think a lot of artists now work in a very cross discipline manner which means there are no limitations or barriers, it seems very liberating. What inspires your use of natural materials? Right now I’m working a lot with stone and sometimes metal but mainly natural materials. I would say what interests me and one of the reasons I like working with stone would be because we live on a planet of stone, we live in houses made from stone, stone is fundamental to our existences as the earth that grows our crops and feeds our animals is really just crushed stone. When we’re buried we return to the earth, it’s all interlinked really. The other aspect of stone or clay or metal is the physical bodily aspect, maybe not consciously but subconsciously you are aware of your own height and your own size, the distance that you can stretch your hands and arms, so all of that in a physical way is very bodily and is connected to your body. In addition to intellectual aspects, the engagement of your thought process and all your senses, eyes, touch, smell, there’s this whole other bodily aspect.
How have things changed from the 70’s to the current day? They’ve changed a lot but I wouldn’t necessarily say that they’ve changed for the worse; it’s just different. I suppose in my day it was more the case that you were introduced to a material and became aware of how to work both visually and physically with it, in conjunction with viewing it in a conceptual way. I suppose that’s the biggest difference from when I first started training. I would’ve had a more craft based training initially and later on was encouraged to bring a conceptual and contextual element to my work. In a lot of art schools now there isn’t that, you’re taught to develop your ideas KINFOLK
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F EAT U R E & PH O T O G RAPHY NICOLE DICKOV ASSISTANT LOUISE MAIR
SAFER SPACES Sanctuary is, by definition, refuge or safety from pursuit, persecution and danger. For some, these things are present throughout their daily lives. The Forest Café has been a sanctuary for countless people over the past sixteen years, an oasis where they can take a step back from their worries, even if only for an hour. At this café they believe everyone deserves equality regardless of gender, race, religion, sexuality or nationality. Upon entering, a non-judgemental safe space is promised. The Forest Café is a non-profit, registered vegetarian charity organisation located in Grassmarket in the centre of Edinburgh City. Fresh organic meals are prepared each day in addition to tea, coffee and wine in the evenings being on offer. They host free events every day to support local artists and creatives. The cafe aimes to revive the sense of community found in days gone past. The bohemian 70’s aesthethic is evident upon arrival. Events include Open-Mic-Night where one can go along with a guitar and play, sing a song, recite a poem, tell a story or perform some stand-up comedy. They also have a basement space that is used for art exhibitions that they let out free of charge and encourage the public to view as well. With only four paid workers throughout their entire staff, they rely on a volunteer workforce to support themselves. They provide opportunities for the volunteers to gain experience in barista and till work as well as learning to prepare fresh vegetarian and vegan meals, such as veggie curries and soups. They are extremely welcoming to those who want to try it out as they can only keep the café open 10am-11pm each day providing they have enough volunteers. The schedule is very flexible and they work together to make it work for each individual. They really get to know their customers. Whatever your needs are – vegan, gluten free, vegetarian – don’t fear the staff here have your back. It’s very much a home away from home for many of their regular customers, some of which still return after the sixteen years of the forest café, even
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though it has changed locations twice with a year’s break to raise money for the location they host now. Another amazing facility they have is their ‘Free Shop’ where you can drop off clothes, books, toys, and kitchen appliances so people can then come in a take what they need. You can also drop off your plants if they need caring for whilst you travel or go on holiday. The space is draped in plants and comfy couches with amazing illustrations on the walls making it a great source of creative inspiration. The plants really help the natural vibe of the café and it coincides with the forest theme whilst adding to the relaxing organic aesthetic of the café. Sitting in the forest café you are almost always guaranteed a new social encounter each time. The customers are all as friendly as they come and are usually up for open minded chats
with people they’ve never met. It isn’t uncommon for these customers to become volunteers as it’s easy to fall in love with the chilled vibes and homely atmosphere. People want to see the place continue to flourish and provide the free events that so many people enjoy. The ‘Pay it forward’ system they use is basically a helping hand to those who are maybe a little bit short on cash. For example you could put forward an extra fifty pence which then will be replaced by a token that customers can then use to make up their bill if they’re short. As for the organic produce that they serve, they buy it in bulk and there are often left overs at the end of the week. To combat waste they have a FOOP drive on Fridays from 6pm to 8pm where people purchase the produce at wholesale price.
When asked what their thoughts were on the sense of community in today’s society David, a worker and fan of the café for five years said, ‘It is only perceived that there is a lack of community now-a-days. It’s there if you look for it.’ When questioned on his thoughts about big brand ‘cafes’ such as Starbucks and Costa, he explained how he feels they are simply large, profit-driven organisations who play a huge part in the money making business which changes the expectations of their produce and service. Whilst in conversation with someone so passionate about what they do it’s hard not to realise what a valuable connection that the Forest Café has with its customers, volunteers and community.
DAVID, 23, VOLUNTEE R
P H O T O G R A P H Y, S T Y L I N G & C A S T I N G LUCY PROCTOR
Where the
Wild
Things Are
In September 1975 legendary photographer David Bailey and his then wife, Maire Helvin - Tokyo-American Model - did a shoot for British Vogue entitled, “How to Make the Most of the Little that’s Left”. This Spring we take inspiration from that shoot and reflect on the months gone past whilst anticipating the warm ways to come.
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In Conversation With;
Rebecca
O’ Connor
It’s the coalescence of life’s little details that creates a sense of fulfilment. From relishing in the comfort of a bath to creating an escape for her customers, Rebecca O’Connor does it all with grace and organic products. The acclaimed beautician turned business owner discusses the past, present and future of her company.
Rebecca recalls understanding the small but significant healing powers of beauty products at a young age. Her mother struggled with eczema and growing up seeing a new found spring in her mother’s step up each time a new moisturizer was purchased helped Rebecca realize that beauty has a deep connection to wellbeing. How did you get started? At sixteen I studied beauty therapy at London College of Fashion before continuing my studies at university where I did a degree in health science. I did a module in aromatherapy which really emphasised its importance in today’s world and it’s connection to wellbeing. Upon finishing this degree I went on to work in aromatherapy, building up experience when I eventually opened my own treatment room before the move to Scotland where I established my own brand “Beatitude”.
What was the first product created for your line? When I first started the brand it just consisted of a variety of different bath oils – Pease, Patience and Joy. My goal was to make something that didn’t make the bath slippery but whilst still using high quality ingredients that when worked into the skin would reach the bloodstream, something you can say worked from the outside in. For me the packaging had to be exquisite, it needed to be as luxurious as the product inside it whilst making it different from other products of a similar nature on the market. Your products are known for being 100% organic, how do you ensure this? All of the products in the “Beatitude” line as well as all the packaging is ethically and locally sourced and environmentally friendly! My products are tested on friends and
family, not animals! It’s my way of thinking that for my products to work to the extent that I want them to, for my clients to have sound body and mind, ones moral conscience must be at ease. What future products do you wish to introduce to your range? I have a few products about to be released. I’ll be adding to my skin care selection with a facial cleanser and a night cream. I have floral water – maybe rose or aloe vera - in the works as well as a pillow spray. As part of my research I’ve been looking at other brands’ products of this nature and I can’t seem to find any that have used 100% organic ingredients – I look forward to the challenge of doing so! Anything worth doing is worth doing right.
INTERVIEW & PHOTOGRAPHY EMMA FARQUHAR AS S I S TAN T S KIRSTIN SMITH NICOLE DICKOV
THE SEVENTIES: A PLAYLIST
Seems Like Old Times – Annie Hall ‘77 Sarah Blasko A Hard Way to Go ‘70 Tim Weisberg The Air That I Breathe ‘74 The Hollies Summer Breeze ‘73 Seal and the Crofts A Horse With No Name ‘72 America I Hear You Knocking ‘72 David Edmunds Nights in White Satin, ‘76 The Moody Blues
SONGS CHOSE N BY LOUISE MAIR
REVIEW LUCY PROCTOR
ANNIE HALL A REVIEW
Cult classic film “Annie Hall” is highly regarded as one of Woody Allen’s finest works. The story centres on a New York native TV writer with obvious intellect but equally as obvious egotistical mannerisms. He seems to be straddling down a river of short–term relationships – until he meets the one Miss Annie Hall, originally from the Midwest. Here, we are shown the ups-and-downs of their relationship. To add humour the film is interjected with soliloquies from Allen’s character, voicing his strong and often obnoxious opinions with occasional subtitles in place translating the characters thoughts. The film is absurdly clever and well written but the characters are predominantly unlikeable. The clothing is quintessential of the 70’s and highlights the androgynous style that came to fame later in the decade. The most endearing element of the film is its ability to portray the imperfections of real human relationships – warts and all.
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INTERVIEWERS KIRSTIN SMITH SIERA HODGESON ALAN B LAC K NICOLE DICKOV
Q & A We asked four people who were at different stages of their lives in the 70’s a few questions about their memories.
Finish the sentence, “In 1975, I was…” Ron: In my first year of high school. Liz: Nine and playing Volleyball for Scotland. Susan: Married with five children. Stevie: Twenty-one and training to be a pilot What kind of music did you listen to? Ron: I had lots of favourite bands in the 70’s but my absolute favourite was AC/DC, they still are today. Liz: The Beatles because I loved their new sense of style and the element of fun they brought to my youth. They had catchy fun music that is still relevant today. Susan: Dolly Parton and Don Williams. Stevie: It has to be Elvis. Where there any fashion trends you subscribed to? Ron: I wore a green Wrangler hoody, Wrangler jeans - skinners, wedges and platforms like they were going out of style, which they inevitably did. Liz: I loved my flares. Susan: What I remember most was the miniskirts, bellbottom trousers with skinny rib tank top. Stevie: Flares, wide collars and bright colours that shouldn’t really go together. I cannot remember anyone even bothering about what each of us wore even up until I went to high school. What’s the biggest difference between then and now? Ron: There was no media, mobile phones or internet. You were lucky to have a phone in your house. Nowadays kids don’t go out to play as much as they did back
then. There are less personal interactions nowadays. Liz: For me the biggest social change is how people buy their food, when I was younger we literally lived from the produce we bought from the markets. Everything was fresh from either the bakers, butchers or fish mongers whereas now all of these things can be bought under one roof. Susan: People would leave their doors open without worrying about the dangers of life we have today. It was a lot safer then. Stevie: I remember it was only about 20p for a pint of beer so the men generally went to the pub on Friday and the women visited each other with the kids. What was your favourite food? Ron: My mum’s potatoe soup was the best growing up. We ate a lot of homemade meals growing up. Liz: Probably the homemade cakes my mum would make. My favourite was the lemon meringue pie. Susan: Much of the food I made in the 70’s, I still make now. Bringing up my children, I would make ham hock soup and prawn cocktail during Christmas time. Stevie: Gammon and pineapple was something I was introduced to, as well as prawn cocktail, then after eights became very popular, they were expensive. What movies and TV shows spring to mind: Ron: The Deer Hunter in 1978. Stevie: My favourite film was Rocky in 1976. It was the first real sports film with lifelike action. Happy Days with the Fonz was my favourite TV show.
“ Food is not simply organic fuel to keep body and soul together, it is a perishable art that must be savoured at the peak of perfection. � E.A. Bucchianeri