NAUTICAL MILITARISM

NAUTICAL MILITARISM FASHION GROUP PROJECT BY: LUIZA, YASMINE, CHARLES, EMILY, KASKIA MODULE: ADB308

3 CREDITS

4-7 STYLES RESEARCH

Meet our team By. Luiza Osam-Gyaabin

Short history of using military and nautical looks in fashion industry By. Yasmine Chahidi

8-9 BRAND RESEARCH Why did we choose ZARA as our client?

By. Luiza Osam-Gyaabin

10-11 STYLING CONCEPT How did we pulled the look together?

By. Yasmine Chahidi

12-13 LOCATION REPORT Two sides of Southampton By. Charles Jones

14-15 THE STORY BOARDING Visual design of the shoot composition and technical details By. Charles Jones

16-17 BEAUTY CONCEPT Hairstyle and make up research and development for the shooting By. Kaskia Robinson

18 POSTPRODUCION Process of editing pictures By. Emily-Lorraine Snelling

19-22 FINAL ADVERTISING CAMPAIGN No comment needed, just have a look! ;) By. Emily-Lorraine Snelling

NAUTICAL MILITARISM

’S T A H W

?

E ID S IN

CREDITS name

main task

role at the shooting

Luiza Osam-Gyaabin

project management brand research

shooting organisation model

Yasmine Chahidi

styles research styling development

stylist

Charles Jones

locations report the story boarding

assistant photographer

Kaskia Robinson

beauty research and development

make up artist support

Emily-Lorraine Snelling

post production report final advertising campaign

photographer

MILITARISM IN FASHION Fashion’s use of military elements was mostly decorative: buttons and brocade; intricate mohair braiding; short, stiff collars;

The fashion industry was affected by and involved in the war effort. The famous Burberry trench coat was on the battlefield before it ever graced Fifth Avenue; The jump to civilian fashion came later and it turned out Burberry’s gabardine coat, with all its military bells and whistles, did well in peace time, too; By the mid-1940s, the trench coat was utterly stylish; Both of the World Wars were fashion fodder when it came to outerwear.; Bomber jackets, field jackets and pea coats all started as military issue.

Fashion designers, attracted to the military-grade function, adopted the forms and adapted them to suit civilian style; In the hands of high-fashion, uniform elements were transformed by feminized shapes, bright colours, soft fabrics, cut-outs, sequins and bustier structuring never seen in any foot locker; ”M.A.S.H.”, coincided with a turn toward the military-authentic that helped the trend become a full-fledged fashion statement.

Pea Coat British Royal Navy Variations of the traditional double-breast- ed heavy wool pea coat had likely existed for decades before the first reference to the “pea jacket” appeared in American news- papers around 1723. The U.S. Navy suggests that the term originated as an abbreviation of the “pilot cloth” material used to make the coat, while others look back to the Dutch word “pijjekker” as its genesis.

T-shirt US Navy The closest approximation to the modern T-shirt was first issued by the U.S. Navy as undershirts in the years following the Spanish American War, and soon caught on as their own style when sailors in warm climates were spotted wearing only undershirts sans uniform jackets. Prior undergarments were typically full union suits or at least Henley-style shirts with buttons.

Jeans US Navy As with the short-sleeved T-shirt, the U.S. Navy responded to servicemen’s needs for more practical workwear when denim dungarees were first authorized for enlisted sailors in 1901 and for officers in 1913, marking the transformation point for a garment that had originated for a market of cowboys and miners in the 1870s.

Cardigan British Army That’s right, the favored knitwear of Mr. Rogers, Perry Como, and The Dude was originally brought to us by the military. Lord Cardigan lent his name to the knit- ted wool waistcoats worn by his cavalry officers for their charge against the Russians during the Crimean War. The name – and the style – stuck among patriotic Brits wishing to honor their victorious hero.

Chinos European militaries The Spanish introduced “pantaloons chinos” to European military forces through- out the 1800s, the latter word referring to the Chinese origins of the cotton twill cloth used to make them. The Americans import- ed the same material for their khaki uniform trousers during the Spanish-American War in 1898, shortening the term to “chinos” and establishing what would be- come inextricably linked with Ivy League style through the following century.

NAUTICAL FASHION Nautical fashion can generally be traced back to mid-19th-century

England, the time of Queen Victoria. During this so-called Victorian era; The British weren’t the only ones influencing maritime fashion trends.

One of the most enduring nautical looks, the striped Breton shirt, comes from France. Originally worn by fishermen in Brittany, la marinère, as it is called, was officially adopted as part of the French naval uniform in 1858; Naval Style found their way into modern day-fashion thanks to Coco Chanel, after a visit to the French coast, she was inspired to incorporate the marinère style into her 1917 collection.

Decades later, geniuses of fashion such as Yves Saint Laurent, Vivienne Westwood and Jean Paul Gaultier took inspiration from seafaring styles for their own collections.

The navy aesthetic is meant to be simple, clean and natural; it can be easy to go overboard.

NAUTICAL PRINTS The prints that mark the life of a sailor and his ship are to be seen scattered on all the nautical-inspired prints.

Stripes, both vertical and horizontal, done in blue and white as well as red white make for a complete sailor look.

Anchors both alone as well as mixed with polka dots are peppy and crunchy.

Stars, both big and small, clustered throughout as prints or as details also add to the look.

Capstan wheels are also frequent in appearance.

COLORS The typical maritime theme is aptly suggested by the nautical-inspired blues, bright palace blues, dark navy blues, reds and whites.

A typical nautical scheme makes use of navy blue combined with white as well as red combined with snow-white.

However, to add variety to the snowwhite is substituted by soft cream or ivory.

The black/dark navy blue of the Royal Navy, United Kingdom, is a favourite of the nautical theme.

Also, the denim blue, like one of the French or Italian navy is also popular and hit.

After choosing the first brand (MISBHV)

and the consultation with our tutor - Lisa, we decided to find a more accessible client.

We chose ZARA because, as a supplier of "fast fashion", ZARA is focused on 4 things; �being fast, not first", analysis of customers' opinions, minimal contribution to marketing, but the best locations of stores in big cities.

ZARA's style focuses on women between the ages of 20 and 50, although I believe that teenagers and older women will also find something for themselves.

Apart from women's clothing, ZARA produces men's and children's clothing. On the European market we can also find ZARA home designs.

BRAND REPORT

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5rTy4oouj4 c

Before our photo shoot, I decided to watch ZARA’s last campaign, the autumn/winter 2020 season.

ZARA put on strong looks, red lips, long coats, boots on a pole/heel and a mysterious atmosphere. This was perfectly suitable for our concept!

STYLING CONCEPT Looking into both styles, Nautical and

Militarism, and ZARA campaign from Autumn/Winter 2020 season, we’ve decided to choose: wide-leg trousers, similar to those from Lena Hoschek’s look from S/S 2017 collection; military olive coat; omnipresent white shirt and black boots on a chunky heel.

STYLING DEVELOPMENT

COAT JACKET COLOR

Olive

SIZE

Medium

SHAPE

Long and over sized

SEASON

Autumn/ Winter

NAVY SHIRT COLOR

White

SIZE

Small

SHAPE

Basic shirt long sleeves

SEASON

Autumn/ Winter

WILD-LEG TROUSERS COLOR

Marsala

SIZE

Medium

SHAPE

High-waist with dart detailing

SEASON

Autumn

HEELED ANKLE BOOTS COLOR

Black

SIZE

38

SHAPE

Leather upper/ chunky heel/ rounded toe

SEASON

Autumn/ Winter

LOCATION REPORT

Our session has place on Wednesday, 21st of October.

We choose the Holyrood Church as our first destination.

We felt like this was an interesting place to go as the church was bombed in the second World War and is now left in ruins, this relates to our military theme.

We decided to switch location, so we walked down by the sea to the Kuti's Brasserie, a high-end Indian restaurant.

We choose this restaurant for our next photoshoot place because we wanted to show a level of contrast between a high-end restaurant and church’s ruins.

STORY BOARDING We decided to do undemanding,

simple fashion frames, professionally called “editorial”, as we were thinking of an advertising campaign for ZARA, mainly published in a magazine (both online and printed).

Composition at the first shot is central, focusing on the model which stands in the main gate of the church’s ruins.

SCENE #: Holy road Church SHOT #: 1st SIZE: 3:4 CAMERA: Canon D70 LENS: 1.8

Here, we have got a composition that we can close in 3:4 frames.

The portrait is focused on the model’s face.

SCENE #: Holy road Church SHOT #: 2st SIZE: 3:4 CAMERA: Canon D70 LENS: 1.8

The first shot at Kuti’s Brasserie location is typical rule of thirds.

Lines are crossed in focal points on model and background (background building's lines, a chin, hand on the legs and a coat).

SCENE #: Kuti’s Brasserie SHOT #: 1st SIZE: 3:3 CAMERA: Canon D70 LENS: 1.8

The fourth photo of our session is the only one in the landscape instead of vertical composition. The proportion of 5:3 frames helps find focal points.

SCENE #: Kuti’s Brasserie SHOT #: 2nd SIZE: 5:3 CAMERA: Canon D70 LENS: 1.8

In this picture, the silhouette can be closed in the central vertical section (central composition).

A strong contrast between the straight lines of the background and the S-bent figure of the model focuses the eye from the top of her head to the bottom.

SCENE #: Kuti’s Brasserie SHOT #: 3rd SIZE: 3:4 CAMERA: Canon D70 LENS: 1.8

Usually, nautical styling

is paired with a classic red lip and winged eyeliner.

However we also wanted to include the theme of militarism and therefore came up with two options for the look.

The first option was the classic nautical red lip with a beret to convey the idea of a military uniform.

MAKE UP AND HAIR DESIGN

The second option was an impactful brown Smokey Eye paired with a short, slicked back hairstyle.

This look was inspired by the inclusivity of both men and women in the military.

The Smokey Eye evokes a sultry feel and the hair-style contrasts that, lending a more androgenous aspect to the final look.

Ultimately, we made the decision to go with the red lip and beret look to coney the nautical theme as the fashion styling was more representative of militarism.

POST PRODUCTION

As a photographer I prefer not to edit my photographs too greatly as I much prefer natural, raw looking imagery.

Because of this, I didn't make any drastic changes during postproduction. All I did in post production was adjust the brightness and contrast, colour levels and the sharpness of all the images to make them stand out more, and I made slight changes to the cropping and rotation to ensure the photographs are completely straight and symmetrical.

After this I then placed a PNG of the ZARA logo in strategic locations to create the advertisement effect we were looking for.

The location of the logo varies on each different photo due to the differences in composition.

I aimed to place the logo in any negative space, but this wasn't always the most successful location since it would make the image too crowded- sometimes negative space needs to be left alone.

Overall I think my minor changes in post were simple yet effective enough to improve the photographs to a more polished standard.

AFTER

BEFORE

NAUTICAL MILITARISM AS A ZARA CAMPAIGN

BIBLIOGRAPHY

https://www.findmypast.co.uk/1939register/stockings-siren-suits-women-fashion-1939 https://twitter.com/HistoricalSoton/status/891307583776141312 https://www.bluevelvetvintage.com/vintage_style_files/2015/06/09/decked-out-nautical-fashion-through-the-ages/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/sparrowhawk7/49979918436/ https://color.adobe.com/Electric-Blue-to-Fire-Engine-Red-color-theme-3316723/# https://hair-and-makeup-artist.com/womens-1940s-makeup/ https://www.gearpatrol.com/style/a285095/military-style-invades-fashion/ https://www.woman.at/a/ahoy-lena-hoschek-sommer-2017-berlin-fashion-week https://www.instagram.com/p/7KTaDKrPNu/ https://www.instagram.com/p/7i7bNpMfon/ https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/120400990026990602/ https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-to-wear/ralph-lauren/slideshow/collection https://www.zara.com/es/en/woman-studio-mkt1317.html https://www.zara.com/es/en/woman-editorial-new-mkt1103.html?v1=1549224