Lunds and Byerly's REAL FOOD Summer 2013 by Lunds & Byerlys

B BO BY FL ’ AY S

Lunds and Byerly’s

R BA BE CU E AD N IO CT DI SUMMER 2013

COMPLIMENTARY

Grilled Summer

PROFE N A SSION AL

GRILL

Text B B to 951 Q 73 (PAGE 16)

The Great American Pastime

INDIAN-SPICED CHICKEN WRAPS (RECIPE PAGE 54)

FREE

BURGERS: Beyond beef GRILLING FISH: Simple tips for better results SENSATIONAL SANDWICHES: Gourmet offerings from bread to spread FIRE UP THE VEGETABLES: Savory summertime sides on the grill

WH E N YOU WA NT SOMETH I NG DONE R IG H T, you craft it by hand—taking pride in the work, satisfaction in a job well done. For some, it isn’t just a thing to do; it’s a way of life. It’s personal. And for us, it’s also the attention to detail that makes Prairie one of the world’s most luxurious vodkas. P PrairieVodka.com i i V dk d

Top Doctor with a Big Heart A Twin Cities household name sets himself apart with his philanthropy. CONGRATULATIONS!! Dr. Crutchfield is the only dermatologist selected as a ‘ Top Doctor for Women’ every year since the inception of the Minnesota Monthly survey. Dr. Crutchfield has also been recognized by Minnesota Physician as 1 of the 100 most influential health care leaders in the state of Minnesota. “I want all my patients to look good and feel great with beautiful skin,” says Charles E. Crutchfield III, M.D. “When you come to Crutchfield Dermatology; the emphasis is on quality, in-depth skincare knowledge and service. That’s what really sets us apart.” A long list of awards and honors serves as evidence that Crutchfield is good at what he does. What stands out even further is his generous community outreach and support. “I realize that no one gets to where they’re at without the help of many people. And I’m in a point in my career where I can give back.” His support runs deep, especially for students, not only through scholarships and textbook donations, but also through mentorship. Dr. Crutchfield, a Clinical Professor of Dermatology at the University of Minnesota Medical School is a mentor in the University of Minnesota’s Future Doctors of America Program where undergraduate students of color shadow Crutchfield during patient appointments. They learn the art of medicine and are introduced to a wide variety of opportunities. Dr. Crutchfield recently received the Minnesota Medical Association Foundation’s Minority Affairs Meritorious Service Award as an outstanding mentor dedicated to students within Minnesota’s Future Doctors Program. His medical students at the University of Minnesota Medical School have honored him three times as Teacher of the Year. Crutchfield’s definition of community enthusiastically includes the Minnesota Twins, and his love of baseball occasionally surfaces in his philanthropic work. During his residency, he learned that a hospice patient and fellow baseball fan dreamed of meeting Kirby Puckett. He arranged the meeting, and Mayo Clinic acknowledged his kindness with the Karis Humanitarian Award. When Twins player Bert Blyleven accepted a dare to eat night crawlers in exchange for a hundred dollar donation to Parkinson’s research, Crutchfield upped the ante to a thousand dollars, challenging other medical clinics to join him. His challenge raised almost $15,000 for the Parkinson’s Association of Minnesota. Crutchfield also donates to the Twins Community Fund to build ballparks for children in the inner city. “Sports give children focus and a sense of personal achievement,” he explains. “Many sports require a substantial investment, but baseball is financially accessible. You give a kid a glove, a ball, and a bat, and they are good to go.”

Remembering school days when he struggled with dyslexia himself, Crutchfield serves as a Hero Benefactor for the Reading Center; stepping in when available scholarship funds aren’t sufficient to cover the number of hopeful students. For the High school for Recording Arts, founded in Saint Paul to encourage at-risk youth to finish high school by linking lyric writing to English and marketing to mathematics, Crutchfield contributes funding and scholarships. Dr. Crutchfield routinely financially supports and encourages his staff to participate in breast cancer, Alzheimer’s, and Parkinson’s walks. He has also been given the “Patriotic Employer Award” from the Minnesota National Guard for his support of our troops. Dr. Crutchfield has also been awarded the “Gold Triangle Award” from the American Academy of Dermatology for promoting health-care awareness in underserved areas. He also offered free skin and scar treatments for the survivors of the tragic Minneapolis 35W bridge collapse. Dr. Crutchfield was selected as the first “Physician Health Care Hero” by Medica, Twin Cities Business and KARE11 for “Outstanding contributors to the quality of health care in Minnesota.” His philanthropy also extends to supporting Camp Discovery, a camp for children with skin diseases. For more than a decade, Crutchfield has been an active supporter and nominator, and dedicated all royalties from the dermatology textbook he coauthored to the program. Once a child is accepted into the camp, their entire experience is covered by donations. “As a child, I loved going to camp. But as a dermatologist, working with children with skin diseases, [I] see so many of them ashamed to go because they are afraid to expose themselves and be teased. Camp Discovery is a place where kids can be kids again.” Dr. Crutchfield’s efforts continue; he has established a lectureship at the University of Minnesota honoring his parents, Susan Crutchfield MD, as the youngest (at the time) and first African-American female graduate of the medical school, and Charles Crutchfield Sr. M.D. the first practicing African-American Obstetrician-Gynecologist in the Twin Cities, who has delivered almost 10,000 babies. He has also co-authored a children’s book for little leaguers extolling the virtues of being sun-safe and sun protection Little Charles Hits a Home Run is available on Amazon.com, Kindle, Nook and iPad. Proceeds will benefit the Twins Community Fund and Camp Discovery for Children. Dr. Crutchfield is also the founding member of “Doctors For The Practice Of Safe & Ethical Aesthetic Medicine”. More information can be obtained at safeandethicaldoctors.org. His latest medical endeavor is an initiative requiring automobile, cell phone and insurance companies equip cars with mandatory technology disabling texting while driving. Visit crutchfielddermatology.com/safetexting for more information. For Dr. Crutchfield, giving back has become a way of life.

Crutchfield Dermatology • 1185 Town Centre Drive • Suite 101 • Eagan • 651-209-3600 www.CrutchfieldDermatology.com

! w Ne

! l l i r G s ’ Let

Grilling Instructions

1) Unwrap your Favorite Brew Pub Pizza and Remove from the Cardboard Tray. 2) Pre-heat Gas or Charcoal Grill. Maintain Grill at a Low Temperature or 300 degrees. 3) Place the Brew Pub Pizza on a Pizza Tray in your Grill. 4) Grill Pizza 20 to 25 minutes or until Cheese is Melted and Bubbling.

Available in your Favorite Grocery Stores Freezer Aisle! www.bernatellos.com LOTZZA MOTZZA is a registered trademark, and BREW PUB PIZZA and the associated Brew Pub design are protected trademarks of Bernatello’s Pizza, Inc. ©2012. All rights reserved.

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contents

real food summer 2013

Features 26 Pizza on the Grill An outdoor medley of flavors. BY ELIZABETH KARMEL AND BOB BLUMER

36 The Flip Side Favorite burgers, sans beef. CONTRIBUTIONS FROM BRUCE AIDELLS, ROBIN ASBELL, SERENA BASS, AND JASON ROSS

46 Fire Up the Veggies Delectable summertime sides. BY MARIE SIMMONS

52 Sensational Sandwiches Gourmet from bread to spread. BY ALISON LEWIS

60 Barbecue Addiction Bobby Flayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s crash course on open-fire cooking.

Our Cover

BY TARA Q. THOMPSON

Indian-Spiced Chicken Wraps (page 54). This page: Lamb Burger with Piquillo Peppers and Manchego (page 43). Photographs by Terry Brennan

2 real food summer 2013

The Rebirth of a Legend.

Introducing

TWIN® Four Star II

from Zwilling J.A. Henckels, the

TWIN is a registered trademarks of Zwilling J.A. Henckels, Inc.

dramatic successor to FOUR STAR, the world’s most popular fine knives for 30 years.

Perfectly balanced. Precision-forged from a single piece of our exclusive high-carbon, no-stain steel. Like every Henckels knife, it comes with our famous lifetime warranty.

ZWILLING J.A.HENCKELS

PASSION FOR THE BEST. SINCE 1731.

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The leading independent product testing organization ranks Henckels TWIN knives #1 and #2 among all brands.

contents

Departments 6 Contributors 18 Countertop Products to get you cooking and entertaining like a master chef right in your own backyard. BY STYLE ARCHITECTS

22 Kitchen Skills

Simple tips to prepare great fish, hot off the grill. BY JASON ROSS

64 Pairings Moscato pairs perfectly with a summer occasion, whether you are hosting a brunch, serving dessert, or simply enjoying a conversational aperitif.

PUBLISHER STEVE FOX EDITOR JOEL SCHETTLER ART DIRECTORS JAMIE JOHNSON DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION SERVICES LAURIE ETCHEN SENIOR EDITOR MARY SUBIALKA SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER MANDY FINDERS SALES MANAGER JENNIFER MCALPIN

VOLUME 9, NUMBER 2 Real Food magazine is published quarterly by Greenspring Media Group Inc., 600 U.S. Trust Building, 730 Second Ave. S., Minneapolis, MN 55402, 612.371.5800, Fax 612.371.5801. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Real Food is exclusively operated and owned by Greenspring Media Group Inc. Printed in the USA. www.realfoodmag.com

4 real food summer 2013

The pages between the covers of this magazine (except for any inserted material) are printed on paper made from wood fiber that was procured from forests that are sustainably managed to remain healthy, productive, and biologically diverse. Printed with soy-based inks.

FLAME® is Emile Henry’s newest innovation in ceramic technology. Designed to work on the barbeque, (gas, charcoal, natural wood or electric cooking), in the oven and under the broiler at temperatures up to 750°F (400°C).

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Pizza Stone

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• Turns any barbeque grill into an outdoor pizza oven. • Scratch resistant, you can cut directly on the stone without damaging the surface. • Glazed surface is easy to clean, dishwasher safe.

contributors

Marie Simmons

has created recipes and written food articles for dozens of magazines, including Food & Wine, Cooking Light, and Eating Well. For more than 15 years, she wrote a monthly column for Bon Appétit, as well as a weekly column for the Los Angeles Times Syndicate. She is the author of 18 cookbooks, including Things Cooks Love, and invites you to join her at mariesimmonsvegetarian. blogspot.com. Photograph by Luca Travoto.

Elizabeth Karmel

a.k.a. Grill Girl, is the executive chef of Hill Country Barbecue Market in New York City and Washington, D.C., and New York City’s Hill Country Chicken. She writes for publications including Saveur and Better Homes & Gardens and a bi-monthly column for the Associated Press called “American Table.” She appears regularly on three network morning shows. She’s a guest judge on Chopped, has appeared on other Food Network shows, and has hosted her own special on The Cooking Channel. She is the author of three cookbooks, including Pizza on the Grill, and the founder of GirlsattheGrill.com.

Bob Blumer

is a culinary adventurer, chef, artist and seven-time Guinness World Record holder who is the creator and host of the television series Surreal Gourmet and Glutton for Punishment and co-executive producer and host of World’s Weirdest Restaurants. His shows air in more than twenty countries worldwide. As a chef, Blumer transforms ordinary ingredients into wow-inspiring dishes through simple cooking methods and whimsical presentations that have become his trademark. He is the author of six cookbooks including Pizza on the Grill and his most recent, Glutton for Pleasure. He lives in the Hollywood Hills.

Alison Lewis

is a cookbook author, recipe developer, media consultant, magazine and internet food, travel and fitness journalist and blogger, speaker, and president of Ingredients, Inc., a media consulting company in Birmingham, Alabama since 2001. Her blog ingredientsinc.net is widely popular and her second cookbook, 150 Best Grilled Cheese Sandwiches, was released last fall. She is the founder and editor-in-chief of Healthy Travel Magazine, which launched in print in March 2013.

Terry Brennan

is an award-winning photographer who has worked for General Mills, Pillsbury, Budweiser, Target, and many national advertising agencies. “My real passion lies in editorial work,” he says, “in which a photographer’s freedom to create a story or look through the photograph is much greater.”

6 real food summer 2013

Lara Miklasevics

Tara Q. Thomas

gave up cooking professionally to become a culinaryobsessed writer. She’s been a senior editor at Wine & Spirits for the past decade and writes regularly for the Denver Post, Culture, Gastronomica, and Gourmet. com. The Brooklyn, New York–based mom of two is also author of The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Wine Basics.

Jason Ross

is a culinary instructor at Le Cordon Bleu in Minnesota and has worked as a consultant to help develop menus at many Twin Cities restaurants. He grew up in New York City but now calls St. Paul home, where he lives with his wife and two young daughters.

began her food career on the other side of the camera, cooking at the renowned New French Café. Today her work as a stylist is in demand at corporations including Heinz, Target, and General Mills, as well as with many magazines. She prides herself on using her experience as a chef to make food as appealing on the page as it is on the plate.

THE NEW HOT DRINK.

Hot or cold, brewed fresh, not shaken or stirred. Drink something good for you ... Bigelow green tea. To your health! - The Bigelow Family Visit www.bigelowtea.com for tea drink recipes, gift ideas, and health information.

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Lunds and Byerly’s welcome LundS Bloomington: 952-896-0092 Edina: 952-926-6833 Minneapolis Downtown: 612-379-5040 Northeast: 612-548-3820 Uptown: 612-825-2440 Minnetonka: 952-935-0198 Navarre: 952-471-8473 Plymouth: 763-268-1624 Richfield: 612-861-1881 St. Paul: 651-698-5845 Wayzata: 952-476-2222

ByerLy’S Burnsville: 952-892-5600 Chanhassen: 952-474-1298 Eagan: 651-686-9669 Edina: 952-831-3601 Golden Valley: 763-544-8846 Maple Grove: 763-416-1611 Ridgedale: 952-541-1414 Roseville: 651-633-6949 St. Cloud: 320-252-4112 St. Louis Park: 952-929-2100 St. Paul: 651-735-6340

SHoP onLine LundsandByerlys.com

Food QueStionS? get answers from our Foode experts. 952-548-1400 Monday–Saturday, 10 a.m–6 p.m.

cLaSSeS & eVentS Cooking Classes • 952-253-3409 Catering • 952-897-9800

REAL FOOD coMMentS Aaron Sorenson • 952-927-3663

Stay connected: Sign up for our e-newsletter at LundsandByerlys.com download our app by texting LB aPP to 95173. Join our text club by texting deaLS to 95173. Facebook.com/LundsandByerlys

ARE YOU A CHEESE WHIZ?

o you know what defines a farmstead cheese? How about the type of milk used in chèvre? If not, that makes at least two of us. But, lucky for us, we have a passionate team of cheese specialists in our stores that can help raise our cheese IQ. In fact, a couple of our cheese mavens, John Stueland and Jennifer Hodges, are two of just three people in Minnesota who have earned the prestigious title of Certified Cheese Professional by the American Cheese Society. So what does it take to earn this title? To pass the three-hour, 150-question exam, it requires deep knowledge on a broad range of topics ranging from the cheese-making process and nutritional information to proper cheese storage and handling. What’s inspiring to me and beneficial to you is that John and Jennifer are sharing their impressive knowledge with all of our cheese specialists through a cheese education program they co-lead. More than 40 of our cheese specialists meet on a regular basis for educational seminars and tastings. In addition to monthly quizzes, the group takes a comprehensive exam twice a year to test their knowledge on every aspect of the cheese production process from the farm to your cutting board. Because of our commitment to sourcing the finest cheeses the world has to offer, we feel it’s important to match it with a commitment to providing you

with exceptional service and passionate expertise. On any given day, you’ll find between 200 and 400 varieties of specialty tres cheeses from Lund as many as 20 countries at our cheese counters.A couple of my favorites are Espresso BellaVitano and Delice de Bourgogne. Thanks to our cheese specialists, you don’t need to be a cheese whiz to find the perfect choices for an amped-up grilled cheese sandwich or for that cheese platter you’re creating for your next party. Because of them, I now know that chèvre refers to cheese made from goat’s milk and a farmstead cheese signifies the milk and the cheese were produced on the same property. We know you come to us as a trusted advisor for your purchasing decisions. It’s a privilege we take a lot of pride in earning each and every day. Thank you for shopping with us. I hope you continue to enjoy Real Food! Sincerely,

Tres Lund Chairman and CEO

twitter.com/LundsandByerlys Pinterest.com/LundsandByerlys LundsandByerlys.com real food 9

Lunds and Byerly’s deli

THAT'S HOW THEY ROLL We $5 Su offeR Sh Wedn i eVeRy WiTh eSday M Than oRe VaRie 10 SuShi T choo ieS To S fRoM e .

PrOVIDING YOu THe BeST IN FreSH SuSHI By ByRon hanSon, Lunds and Byerly's Deli Director

10 real food summer 2013

Lunds and Byerly’s deli

SuSHi 101 SideBar courteSy oF HiSSHo SuSHi

alking through our stores, you can’t help but notice the sushi bar in the deli. If you’re like me, you find yourself mesmerized by the master sushi chefs from Hissho Sushi as their hands fly over the rolls, tossing mouthwatering ingredients in and wrapping everything so quickly.You’d swear it was an illusion. What’s equally impressive, yet not quite as obvious when you’re standing there, is the deep-seated commitment and passion Hissho Sushi has for excellence in every aspect of their operation—from sourcing fresh ingredients and creating products that are on-trend, to their commitment to food safety and providing remarkable service. Our partnership with Hissho Sushi was only natural given those are many of the same foundational elements our company was built on. It’s a partnership that was formed in 2002 and has only grown stronger during the past 11 years. Hissho Sushi (hissho, meaning “certain victory” and sushi, meaning “seasoned rice”) was founded by CEO Philip Maung. He was born in Burma and grew up working long hours in his parents’ food business. They were a hardworking family and took immense pride in their work, but lived in impoverished conditions. With strong determination, Philip graduated from a university in Burma with a chemistry degree. He knew, however, in order to be successful he needed to leave his family and his country for a life with more opportunity. Philip arrived in Los Angeles in 1989 with $13 in his pocket and a strong drive to succeed. Fast forward to 2013 and you see the same hardworking, passionate man; now with a few more dollars in his pocket. Philip started and shaped the company with a mindset of putting restaurant quality sushi in grocery stores. He’s done exactly that and more. To ensure their quality is the best, Hissho makes sure their ingredients are the best. Every item in their sushi rolls is guaranteed fresh. Choice seafood is sourced from all over the world, primarily from areas in Asia and South America, and from sustainable suppliers whenever possible.The produce used in their sushi is always purchased locally to provide you with the freshest products available.

Exceptional ingredients are nothing if they’re prepared poorly—that’s why Hissho makes certain their chefs are the best, too. Every sushi chef goes through extensive classroom and hands-on training. In the classroom, chefs gain a deep understanding of the products while learning the importance of things like food safety and providing every customer with exceptional service. Hands-on training includes preparing and cutting fish, understanding each sauce, and proper sushi rolling techniques. Much of this hands-on training is done in the field at an actual sushi bar. There, the new chefs are critiqued on their skills and performance. Once they’re working at one of our stores, follow-up training is required throughout their careers. Hissho is a wonderful partner of ours because of their commitment to excellence in every aspect of their product, service, and company. Plus, running a family-owned company like a family works pretty well for us, too. Partnering with Hissho has given us yet another point of differentiation as we’re the only grocery store in the Twin Cities to sell fresh Hissho Sushi.That feels really good to us. Having them as a partner has also allowed us to create a special deal for our customers: Sushi Wednesday! We launched this program in conjunction with our other five buck daily deals. It’s just one more way you can save in our stores. If you haven’t visited one of our sushi bars, your taste buds are missing out. We offer $5 sushi every Wednesday with more than 10 sushi varieties to choose from. I have to say my favorite is the Philadelphia Roll. Who can say no to cream cheese? I certainly can’t! Because sushi is such a specialized offering, it’s great to have an expert doing it. I know I can count on Hissho to deliver on the brand promise we make to all of our customers: extraordinary food, exceptional service, and passionate expertise. So the next time you visit one of our stores, stop by the Hissho Sushi bar in the deli and watch their master chefs at work. If it’s possible, the sushi will taste even better knowing about the care, excellence, and tradition that fills each roll. We take pride in the quality of our food because we know you come to us for the best. Our fresh sushi is no exception. ■

SuShi 101

Maki rolled sushi At its simplest, rolled sushi consists of seaweed (nori) spread with rice and topped with fillings. It is then rolled tightly using a bamboo mat (makisu) and sliced into individual rounds. Small sushi rolls are called hosomaki and large ones with many fillings are called futomaki. Rolled sushi with rice as the outer layer is called inside-out maki.

TeMaki hand-rolled sushi A more casual form of sushi, temaki is meant to be eaten with your hands, rather than chopsticks. It is made up of nori topped with rice and a variety of fillings, rolled into a cone shape.

nigiRi finger sushi The best known and simplest form of sushi, nigiri became popular as “fast food” in Japan about 200 years ago. It consists of a pillow of rice adorned with one of a variety of toppings and is sometimes wrapped with a strip of nori.

chiRaShi scattered sushi Chirashi is made by artfully arranging fish, meat, and/or vegetables over a bed of sushi rice. It can be served in individual bowls or to share.

SaShiMi sliced fish Not strictly sushi, sashimi is sliced fresh fish, sometimes served over a bed of rice.

LundsandByerlys.com real food 11

Lunds and Byerly’s clip-and-keep guide

A Guide to Sushi Summer 2013 Mango Tango

Maui Bento

The Mango Tango is a dance between traditional sushi flavors and the sweetness of ripe mango.

The Maui Bento consists of a sampler sushi lunch box and is perfect for the sushi lover who likes variety.

Ingredients: mango, imitation crab, avocado, and cucumber; topped with layers of shrimp, wasabi mayo, and diced mango.

Ingredients: sushi roll of the chef’s choosing, seaweed salad, and nigiri (pillows of sushi rice adorned with various toppings).

Ninja Roll

Outer Banks Roll

The Ninja Roll packs a punch in both taste and appearance.

Packed with a medley of seafood and spice, rolled in the traditional manner with nori on the outside.

Ingredients: spicy crab, cucumber, and avocado; topped with slices of tuna, sweet chili sauce, and black tobiko.

Pollo Picante

Ingredients: tuna, salmon, yellowtail, and avocado; drizzled with Sriracha chili sauce and spicy mayo.

Southern Charm Roll

Hailing from land rather than sea, the Pollo Picante is one of Hissho’s specialty rolls.

Tribute to traditional sushi and Southern cuisine, one of Hissho’s newest creations.

Ingredients: grilled chicken, jalapeños, cilantro, and red and yellow bell peppers; topped with Japanese BBQ sauce and a sprinkling of sesame seeds.

Ingredients: real crab, salmon, yellowtail or cooked shrimp, and avocado; topped with spicy mayo, Japanese BBQ sauce, sesame seeds, and fried onions.

Spicy Inari Inari Sushi is a pouch made of fried tofu and typically filled with sushi rice. It’s a flavorful treat with a kick. Ingredients: spicy shrimp and tuna or salmon in the pouch of rice.

Sriracha Party The Sriracha Party is a taste explosion! Ingredients: spicy tuna, imitation crab, and cucumber; covered in Japanese BBQ sauce and spicy mayo, then topped with Sriracha peas.

Ask to sample a new creation from our sushi chefs or have them customize a roll just the way you like it! 12 real food summer 2013

Source: Lunds and Byerly’s – Lund Food Holdings, Inc. Photos Courtesy of Hissho Sushi

Lunds and Byerly’s

Center Stage Salads

deli

By Bea James, Senior Manager of Organic and Natural Programs

hether I’m hosting a get-together or just making lunch or dinner for myself, salads often take center stage. These aren’t the traditional salads featuring leafy greens. I’m talking about salads with some real character—salads with bold ingredients and flavorful dressings that leave your taste buds singing. The great news is you don’t need to be a chef to get these salads on the center of your plate. We’ve already taken care of that part.You can simply enjoy serving and eating them. In fact, most of these salads are so gratifying all you need is a nice beverage and a good loaf of bread as the sidekick. Here at Lunds and Byerly’s, we’ve been in the kitchen on a mission to meet a growing demand for salads that are great as an accompaniment to a meal or as the meal itself. “Our goal was to deliver extraordinary salads that not only have the usual whole-

some and pure qualities that many people look for when they reach for a salad, but also salads that would surprise and delight the senses with unique fresh herbs, grains, beans, vegetables, and fruits,” said Tim Tesch, who is one of our own executive chefs and has played an instrumental role in developing these salads. During the past year, we looked at many cool beans (pun intended) and grains with the local experts at Indian Harvest in Bemidji, Minnesota. Some of our favorites were the creamy and tender giant Peruvian lima beans that we then used to create a creamy, tender lima bean salad with blue cheese, bacon, and basil. We also loved the dainty little French green lentils that we combined with baby Peppadews, asparagus, and a sweet chili pepper dressing. Another discovery for us was a beautiful golden grain called grano. We combined it with fresh vegetables and traditional Greek

flavors to create our Greta Garbanzo Salad. We also enjoyed a hearty and nourishing grain called farro. We couldn’t help but play off the name for a salad we call Farrout Broccoli Kale. In addition to what the name implies, this salad features dried apricots, sun-dried tomatoes, and Parmesan cheese—all brought to life in a simple olive oil and lemon dressing. While we were developing the combinations to all these salads we had multiple trials, retrials, and retrials of the retrials. Our team had a catch phrase when we finally landed a salad just where we wanted it: “A glass of wine and a baguette and you’re good to go!” In total, we’ve created 20 new sensational salads.We love each of them for the unique and colorful traits and flavors they bring to the party. The special quality they all share is the ability to shine on the center stage of your plate. ■

Buffalo Chicken Pasta Salad

Grilled Vegetable Quinoa

Greta Garbanzo Salad

A delicious twist on pasta salad and a guaranteed crowd pleaser. Rotini pasta with oven-poached chicken, fresh vegetables, and crumbled blue cheese smothered with a creamy and mildly spiced Buffalo dressing. Pair it with our Bake-at-Home Rustic Italian Batard and an iced sparkling beverage.

Savory and smoky fire-grilled asparagus, zucchini, red pepper, red onion, grape tomatoes, feta cheese, and tender quinoa tossed in a fresh basil balsamic vinaigrette. Pair it with grilled salmon, our multi-grain baguette, and an Argentine Torrontes wine.

If you favor the Mediterranean diet, then you’re going to love this one. Garbanzo beans, grano, and kale tossed with kalamata olives and fresh tomatoes enrobed in an olive oil, lemon, mint and garlic dressing. Place this salad in a pita and serve with a Sicilian Nero d’Avola wine.

LundsandByerlys.com real food 13

Lunds and Byerly’s what’s in store

SAUCE GODDESS if you don’t lick your fingers after tasting these sauces, someone else will. Sauce goddess grilling and dipping sauces are preservative free, all natural, gluten free and contain no liquid smoke or MSg. Flavors: sticky sweet, sweet and spicy, big and tangy, and sweet red devil.

Tip: Appetizers are a breeze with these sauces! For the adventurous mouth, grill wings to 165° F and baste with sweet red devil sauce. Continue grilling until crispy. Be sure to have blue cheese ready!

lUndS and BYerlY’S tOrtIlla CHIPS We have two tasty new flavors in our tortilla chip family: yummy sweet potato and multigrain. our sweet potato chip has the crunchy corn goodness of an authentic tortilla chip with a hint of sweet. the multigrain chip has a distinctly rich, nutty flavor added to the traditional corn tortilla chip. Both are all natural.

Tip: These chips are a great accompaniment to sandwiches, salads, subs, and Mexican dishes.

THE REPUBLIC OF TEA U • MATCHA TEAS to make the best tea, you have to find the best tea leaves. the republic of tea scours the world for the most prized tea gardens with the worthiest leaves. their passion for tea can be found in every cup, so enjoy a sip-by-sip rather than gulp-bygulp lifestyle. Flavors: ginger, roasted rice, and yuzu.

Did you know? Matcha tea is made from tender, shade-grown leaves that are ground to a fine powder, creating a rich balance of flavors. Use in mixed drinks, spice rubs, or desserts.

14 real food summer 2013

Lunds and Byerly’s what’s in store

rUFUS teagUe SaUCeS and rUBS rufus teague sauces and rubs will create a flavor kick for any meal. the sauces are all natural and gluten free and are available in these varieties: steak and dippin’ sauce, spicy steak and dippin’ sauce, touch o’ heat, and honey sweet. the fish rub and steak rub contain no MSg and are also gluten free.

OUR DELI ROTISSERIE CHICKEN Spicy chili pepper, ancho brown sugar, and cedar smoke are the latest additions to the tantalizing selection of rotisserie chickens in our delis. Hot off the spit and ready to serve, we start with locally produced gold‘n Plump whole chickens and rub each one with a combination of the finest ingredients.

Tip: Use the sauces on just about everything! They can be used for dipping, basting, marinating, or brushing on anything that had feathers, fur, or scales.

Heat, sweet, and smoke bring out the best in these new rotisserie selections and they are delicious hot or cold. add a deli salad or two, and you have dinner!

NABISCO BROWN RICE TRISCUITS triscuit real Food Snacks are baked with real ingredients, like 100 percent whole grain brown rice and wheat. you’ll find a lighter texture and crispier crunch. each box contains 21 grams of whole grain. Flavors: roasted red pepper, tomato and sweet basil, roasted sweet onion, sea salt and black pepper, and savory red bean.

Did you know? Soft white winter wheat is used to make Triscuits. It’s grown in places like the Great Lakes region. Think of it as the cashmere of wheat because of its soft texture and delicate taste.

ViSiT deli ouR e fRid VeRy 5 Buc ay foR k all f cluck. of Ro laVoRS chic TiSSeRie ke juST nS aRe $4.99 !

LundsandByerlys.com real food 15

BTU-tiful

turn a whole lot of heads -- and up to 50 pounds of meat -on the DCS Professional Grill’s heavy-duty rotisserie. introduce restaurant heat to your backyard in an instant with 64,000 BTUs of total burner output.

a Minnesota family-owned business St. Paul • Woodbury • Apple Valley • Maple Grove • Edina • Coon Rapids • Mpls. Outlet

text BBQ to 95173 for a chance to win this grill* *Sweepstakes prize is gas grill shown. Delivery included within Twin Cities metro area. Additional fees may apply. Suggested retail value $4,248. Visit LundsandByerlys.com/BBQ or in store display for contest rules and alternate forms of entry.

DON ’ T F E A R THE M E AT BAL L . Soft and strong like cloth. Viva towels, Soak Up Life. ®

countertop NEST MATE The versatile Americandesigned Big Green Egg outdoor ceramic cooker functions as a grill, oven, and even a smoker. Big Green Egg-Large with Nest Accessory, $850 (price range), biggreenegg.com

Hot Hot Grillin’ Fire it up in style this summer PRODUCTION & STYLING STYLE ARCHITECTS PHOTOGRAPHY ALEX STEINBERG

PERFECT PRESS Making uniform burgers just got easier! This nonstick cast aluminum press keeps your burger preparations intact and consistently shaped. Burger Press, $24.95, Crate & Barrel, crateandbarrel.com

WELL-SEASONED Infuse some herbal aroma into your grilling with this French Farm sea salt, harvested with sun-dried rosemary, thyme, sage, and marjoram. Butcher Salt Block, $24.95, Crate & Barrel, crateandbarrel.com

Simple, Slow Roasting A favorite of Chef Bobby Flay's, ("Open Flames, Vibrant Flavors," p. 34) the La Caja China Roasting Box takes away much of the hastle of slow roasting large portions. The large box can roast up to a 100 pound pig, 16-18 whole chickens, 4-6 turkeys, 8-10 slabs of pork ribs, or any other meat of your choosing. La Caja China Roasting Box, $350, amazon.com

18 real food summer 2013

MAKE YOUR MARK There is no mistaking the different meat temperatures when you label everyone’s preferred temps with these eco-friendly bamboo meat markers. Bamboo Meat Markers, $2.95 set of 50, Crate & Barrel, crateandbarrel.com

BIG GREEN EGG COURTESY OF BIG GREEN EGG; WEBER GRILL COURTESY OF WEBER; ROASTING BOX COURTESY OF LA CAJA CHINA; ALL OTHER IMAGES BY TJ TURNER, SIDECAR STUDIOS

HEAT IT UP Rare, medium to well-done; use these nifty little steak thermometers when you grill to determine your desired degree of doneness. Mini Meat Thermometers, $19.95, set of 4, Sur La Table, www.surlatable.com

PLANKED These sugar maple planks help infuse your food with a light smoky flavor while retaining natural moisture. Sugar Maple Grilling Planks, $14.95 set of 2, Crate & Barrel, crateandbarrel.com CHARCOAL GOODNESS This Weber Grill makes cooking with charcoal a breeze with its one-touch ignition and removable ash catcher. Werber Performer Platinum Series Charcoal Grill, $350, Sur La Table, surlatable.com

Outdoor Grilling and Entertaining By Rachelle Mazumdar, Director of Weddings + Events, Style-Architects style-architects.com

STAY ORGANIZED Grilling itself can be very relaxing. But what about all the to-dos that lead up to it? Eliminate the stress by doing as much prep work as you can before the guests arrive. The last thing you want to do as a host is prep the grill, mix the drinks, and entertain your guests at the same time. BRAND YOUR BACKYARD BASH Play around with your BBQ “theme” by making it unique and one-of-a-kind. Have some fun by throwing on an “I Heart BBQ” apron or including branded elements such as a personalized BBQ cutting board, (see page 20) monogrammed brander, or monogrammed pitcher and glassware. These elements will pull everything together for a cohesive look.

GRILL MASTER Show off your love for grilling by wearing an “I Heart BBQ” apron. BBQ Heart Apron, $24.95, Sur La Table, surlatable.com

KEEP’N IT CLEAN These cherry striped towels are a must-have for every outdoor kitchen! These soft and thick cotton towels make drying and cleaning a breeze. Cherry Kitchen Towels, $14.95 set of 3, Sur La Table, surlatable.com THE ESSENTIALS These handsome, high-performance tools combine sleek stainless steel along with red soft-grip handles for easy grilling. Grilling Tools, $16.95 each, Crate & Barrel, crateandbarrel.com

KEEP IT COOL Leave the sizzling for the food, not your guests. Cool off your guests by setting up outdoor umbrellas or cooling fans that will be sure to keep them well shaded and relaxed. GOODBYE BUGS Although making your backyard “bug-free” takes a lot of work, you don’t want your guests to be eaten alive. Eliminate these party crashers by treating your yard with bug fogger, citronella candles, or tiki torches! TURN GRILLING INTO AN EXPERIENCE Whether you want to throw a big backyard bash or an intimate evening get-together, grilling is a great way to entertain your guests. Encourage them to skewer their own kabobs or top their own personal pizzas. Surprise your guests by grilling the entire meal, including dessert! Style-Architects is a boutique creative services company based in Minneapolis offering imaginative and awe-inspiring events and weddings, in addition to expert wardrobe styling services. Check out their blog for more party planning tips: style-architects.com/blog.

summer 2013 real food 19

countertop

Hot Hot Grillin’

SIZZLE & SERVE This innovative chef’s pan lets you cook a variety of foods right on your backyard grill. Steel Grill Chef’s Pan, $49.95, Williams-Sonoma, williams-sonoma.com

SKEWERED These innovative combshaped skewers eliminate spinning of skewered items by holding food securely in place. Fusionbrands GrillComb Skewer Set, $19.95, Sur La Table, surlatable.com

Personalize it Presentation matters. What better way to show off your grilling skills than to put your own monogram on your finished steaks? Personalized Monogrammed Brander, $59.95, RedEnvelope, redenvelope.com What says backyard grilling more than a pitcher of iced cold beer? Serve your guests freshly poured beer with this personalized set! Personalized Beer Pitcher, $29.95, Personalized Beer Glasses, $49.95 set of 4, RedEnvelope, redenvelope.com Finish your own customized backyard BBQ with this handcrafted, sustainable solid maple cutting board. Backyard BBQ personalized cutting board, $59.95, RedEnvelope, redenvelope.com

20 real food summer 2013

TEMP APP This wireless thermometer works with an Apple or Android app to alert the user when the meat is fully cooked. iGrill, $80, iGrillinc.com

SKEWERS BY ALEX STEINBERG, SIDECAR STUDIOS; IGRILL COURTESY OF IGRILL; ALL OTHER IMAGES BY TJ TURNER, SIDECAR STUDIOS

ALL CLEAN Take care of your grill by keeping it clean with this all-natural grill cleaner. All Natural Grill Cleaner, $12.95, Williams-Sonoma, williams-sonoma.com, Grilling Cleaning Brush, $16.95, Crate & Barrel, crateandbarrel.com

kitchen skills

Fish Grilling Tips BY JASON ROSS Culinary Instructor Le Cordon Bleu, Minnesota

verybody loves the grill. It’s the most basic and ancient of all cooking techniques, used for hamburgers, steaks, chops, and also pizzas, yet the idea of grilling fish leaves even experienced cooks intimidated. If visions of stuck and broken fish, which is charred and raw in the center, flames your fears, try using these simple tips and taste how great fish can be hot off the grill.

GRILLED CHERMOULA SALMON “FILET MIGNON” (RECIPE PAGE 24)

Grilling Fish

TRICKS of the TRADE:

1. Choose the right fish. Meatier fish with firmer flesh are easier to grill. Thin, flakey fish are more likely to stick and cause problems. Some meaty fish that grill well include salmon, tuna, and swordfish. 2. Grill fish steaks instead of filets. Fish steaks have less exposed flakes and strata, are less fragile, and less likely to stick than filets. 3. Grill whole. For small to mediumsized fish, consider grilling fish whole and scaled. The skin and bone give the fish some structure and support. For whole grilled fish, cut slits in the skin and flesh of the fish to allow marinades and the flavor of the grill to penetrate the fish. Some fish that work well grilled whole include trout, Spanish mackerel, fresh sardines, and snapper.

22 real food summer 2013

4. Cut fish into reasonable sized pieces. Typical serving sizes range from 4 to 12 ounces. If the fish is too large and cumbersome to flip easily, trim it down into smaller portions. 5. Use a metal spatula. Tongs are great on the grill for steaks and hot dogs or sausages, but fish is more fragile and tears easily. Spatulas help support grilled fish and make it easier to get everything to the dinner table in one piece. 6. Consider a restaurant cheat. Many restaurants use grills to get quick grill marks, leaving the fish raw in the center, and then finish it in an oven. At home try “marking” the fish on the grill, then finishing it on an ovenproof platter or pan on a cool side of the grill with the lid closed.

Grilling Basics

Heat and oil it. Make sure the grill is hot, scraped clean with a wire brush, and well oiled, which helps the formation of a good crust and prevents sticking. A tip: Use a rolled and tied towel to oil the grill, periodically dipping it in oil and brushing the grill. Dry it. Wet foods stick easily to the grill. Dry foods with a towel, season, and apply a thin layer of oil with a brush. Mark it. French cooks call grill marks, quadrillage, literally meaning marked in a square pattern. Besides looking nice, quadrillage marks carry much of the grill flavor. To get great grill marks, simply grill, rotate, flip, and rotate the grilled foods, giving each step equal time to build a good even char. Resist the urge to touch or disturb the grilled foods beyond these four steps. continued on page 24

PHOTOS BY TERRY BRENNAN; FOOD STYLED BY LARA MIKLASEVICS

Grilling fish is just like grilling anything else. The same general rules apply, except fish is more fragile, wet, and likely to stick. A little more care and thought can help get better results.

SAUCE SO GOOD, ITALIAN CHEFS WISH WE’D DISAPPEAR.

The perfect blend of tomato,100% Bertolli ® Olive Oil, basil, garlic & onion. No wonder chefs are taking it so hard. Now you don’t have to be an Italian chef to be an Italian chef.

kitchen skills

Grilled Chermoula Salmon “Filet Mignon” MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Fish steaks work great on the grill, but some people do not like the bones. Here is a technique to get steaks that look like filet mignon, without any bones. Also, try using Chermoula marinade with whole cooked fish. 2¼ pounds salmon filet, skinned 1½ cups Chermoula Marinade (recipe below) 12 6-inch skewers 1. Heat and prepare the grill. 2. Divide salmon into 12 pieces of equal width, roughly ¾ inch thick. 3. Start with two pieces. Curl one of them into a C-like shape, and curl the other into a backward facing C-like shape. The skinned side of the pieces should form the inside of the “Cs.” 4. Push the two pieces of salmon together, into each other, forming a kind of “ying-yang” symbol and circle. 5. Use two skewers to hold the filets together. 6. Repeat the process with the other ten pieces. 7. Use ²⁄3 of marinade to rub generously on fish, reserving the other ¹⁄3 to be used as a finishing sauce after grilling fish. Refrigerate fish in a pan for at least 30 minutes. Do not marinate overnight. The lemon juice will start to “cook” the fish. 8. Remove fish from the marinade and pat dry with a paper towel. 9. Grill fish until done using a general rule of thumb of roughly 8 minutes per inch of thickness, or 4 minutes per side. Rotate fish a quarter turn on each side to get even grill marks. Check for doneness by feel. The fish should feel firm. Fish that still feels soft will be rare in the center. 10. Before serving, remove skewers carefully. 11. Serve remaining Chermoula as a sauce, spooning it over hot fish or on the side.

continued from page 22

Keep a cool spot. When grilled foods get too hot, a cool spot on the grill is a great place to quickly save foods from burning. It can also be used to keep foods warm on an ovensafe container as they wait for other foods to finish cooking. Marinate it. Use marinades for extra flavor and to keep grilled foods moist. Finish it. A little butter, olive oil, or reserved marinade gives the food flavor and a little shine and luster after the drying that results from the direct heat of the grill.

24 real food summer 2013

North African Chermoula Marinade MAKES 1 CUP

Chermoula is the classic marinade for fish in countries such as Morocco, Tunisia, and Algeria. The full-flavored mixture can be made mild or spicy, depending on how much cayenne is added. ¼ ¼ 1 ½ ½ 1½ 1 ¼ ¾

cup minced parsley cup minced cilantro tablespoon paprika teaspoon ground cumin teaspoon ground black pepper pinch cayenne pepper teaspoons salt clove garlic, minced cup lemon juice or roughly juice of 1 lemon cup olive oil

1. With a spatula, mix all ingredients, except olive oil, together in a mixing bowl. 2. Mix in the olive oil. 3. Marinade will store in a jar or container for up to 1 week, but its flavor is best during the first day. ■

NUTRITION

Grilling Basics

GRILLED CHERMOULA SALMON “FILET MIGNON”: PER SERVING: CALORIES 415 (276 from fat); FAT 31g (sat. 5g); CHOL 82mg; SODIUM 510mg; CARB 1g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 32g

The Laughing CowÂŽ Light Cheese Wedges Indulge in the rich taste of imported Swiss cheese blended smooth for easy spreading. Creamy, delicious and perfectly portioned with only 35 calories and 2 grams of fat. Enjoy on apple slices or spread on your favorite cracker.

Visit www.thelaughingcow.com

ÂŠ 2006 Bel/Kaukauna USA

, That s

Amore

Stretch your grilling repertoire with layers of flavor atop crisp, smoky pizza pie.

Love the taste of wood-fired pizza from a restaurant? Look no farther than your backyard to start making your own versions. The team that wrote the book on just that, Pizza on the Grill, shares tips for distinguishing your pizzas from the everyday pie. Apart from starting with special techniques to achieve a perfectly crisp, golden brown, crunchy, smoky crust each time, they do whatever it takes to infuse maximum flavor into each of the components that make the pizza, such as the sauces and toppings.The resulting layers of flavor make the pizzasâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;like the those from gourmet restaurantsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;taste so much better than your average pie. Plus, what attracted them to this delectable and versatile food is that it takes little effort and so few tools for a big reward. Whether you prefer marvelous and meatless or savory sausage, anyway you slice it, if you have a grill and the will, you can master grilled pizza.

By Elizabeth Karmel and Bob Blumer

26 real food summer 2013

Bollywood Chutney Chicken Pizza (recipe page 33)

summer 2013 real food 27

Queen Margherita Pizza with crushed tomato sauce

28 real food summer 2013

Queen Margherita Pizza serves 2 to 4

The original pizza was created by an Italian baker from Naples in honor of Queen Margherita. The red, white, and green ingredients were his homage to the Italian flag. The beauty of a Margherita is in the simplicity of its fresh ingredients. ¼ cup uncooked grits or polenta, for rolling the dough 1 ball prepared pizza dough, at room temperature (recipe at right) 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 cup Crushed Tomato Sauce (recipe below) 1 large clove garlic, minced 8 ounces fresh mozzarella cheese, cut into ¼-inchthick slices (or 1 cup grated if fresh is unavailable) 10 fresh basil leaves kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1. Preheat the grill, roll out and shape the dough, and grill the first side of the crust per the master instructions for gas or charcoal on page 31. Use tongs to transfer it to a peel or rimless baking sheet. Flip the crust to reveal the grilled side. 2. Spread the entire surface with the sauce, sprinkle with the garlic, and top with the cheese. Finish grilling the pizza per the master instructions. 3. Remove from the grill, garnish with the basil, and season with salt and pepper. Slice and serve immediately. Wine Partner: Chianti Classico is a popular wine from Tuscany made from the Sangiovese grape. Its high acid content makes it a natural pairing for Italian dishes or any dish that features naturally acidic tomato sauce.

Crushed Tomato Sauce Makes 1½ cups

1 14.5-ounce can crushed tomatoes with or without basil, undrained 1 clove garlic, minced sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1. Pour the crushed tomatoes into a small nonreactive metal or glass bowl. Add the garlic and season with salt and pepper. Drain the excess liquid from the tomatoes and discard. Note: If you cannot find crushed tomatoes, pour a can of stewed plum tomatoes into a food mill, blender, or a food processor and purée.

Master Instructions Basic Pizza Dough Makes enough for 2 pizza crusts

This is a basic white pizza dough; to make whole-wheat dough, use a combination of whole-wheat and white bread flour. The best ratio is 25 percent whole grain flour and 75 percent all-purpose flour. If you use too much whole grain flour, the crust will be leaden, not light and airy. 1 cup lukewarm water, plus extra as needed ¼ cup olive oil, plus extra for oiling the bowl 1 teaspoon sugar or honey 1 package active dry yeast (2¼ teaspoons) 3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, plus extra as needed ¼ teaspoon kosher salt 1. Place the water, oil, and sugar in a large bowl. Sprinkle the yeast on top and let sit until foamy, about 5 minutes. 2. In a medium bowl, combine the flour and salt. Add to the water mixture, ½ cup at a time, until well incorporated. If the dough is stiff, add more water. If it is very sticky, add extra flour, 1 tablespoon at a time, until the dough is soft and slightly sticky. Continue to mix until it feels elastic. Turn the dough out onto a well-floured work surface. Knead for just about 1 minute, until just smooth and easy to work with, adding extra flour to the surface as necessary to prevent the dough from sticking. Do not overwork the dough or it will be tough. Place the dough in an oiled clean bowl, turn it several times to coat all over with the oil, then drizzle the top of the dough with a little oil. Cover tightly with plastic wrap, place in a warm spot, and let rise until it more than doubles in volume, about 1 hour. 3. Punch the dough down and knead on a lightly floured surface for 1 to 2 minutes, until smooth. Divide into two equal-size balls and proceed with your pizza making. (The dough may be made ahead, frozen for up to a month, and thawed at room temperature before using.)

summer 2013 real food 29

Onion Marmalade Makes 1 cup, enough for 1 pizza

2 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon unsalted butter (or salted and reduce the salt a bit) 3 large yellow onions, thinly sliced and roughly separated into rings 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1. Heat the oil and butter together in a large, heavy sauté pan over medium heat. When the butter bubbles, add the onion rings and salt and cook, covered, for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove the cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are all a deep golden color, about 20 more minutes. This will keep, tightly covered, in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

Fire-Roasted Tomato & Cabrales Pizza serves 2 to 4

We love all blue cheeses, and Cabrales is one of our favorites. Cabrales is a Spanish cheese that has the sharpest, tangiest bite of all the blues.The simple accompanying ingredients in this pizza allow it to sing out loud and proud. ¼ cup uncooked grits or polenta, for rolling the dough 1 ball prepared pizza dough, at room temperature (recipe page 29) 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 cup Onion Marmalade (recipe at right) 1¼ cups Fire-Roasted Cherry Tomatoes (recipe at right) 4 ounces Cabrales or your favorite blue cheese, crumbled ¼ cup pecan pieces, toasted and chopped freshly ground black pepper to taste 1. Preheat the grill, roll out and shape the dough, and grill the first side of the crust per the master instructions for gas or charcoal on page 31. Use tongs to transfer it to a peel or rimless baking sheet. Flip the crust to reveal the grilled side. 2. Spread the entire surface with the onion marmalade. Top with the tomatoes and sprinkle with the cheese. Finish grilling the pizza per the master instructions. 3. Remove the pizza from the grill, garnish with the nuts, and season with pepper. Slice and serve immediately. To toast nuts, preheat the oven to 300°F. Spread the nuts on a baking sheet in a single layer and bake until golden brown, 5 to 15 minutes, depending on the nut variety. Turn once during cooking. Let cool before using. Wine Partner: Most people think the only thing to drink with a blue cheese is a red wine. We beg to differ. We love a sparkling Spanish Cava with Cabrales— whether it is on its own or melted over our pizza.

30 real food summer 2013

Fire-Roasted Cherry Tomatoes Makes 40 tomatoes

40 cherry tomatoes (we like those sold on the vine) 1 teaspoon olive oil or as needed to coat 1 cup kosher salt 1. Preheat a gas grill, build a charcoal fire, or preheat the oven to 275°F. 2. Lightly coat the tomatoes with the oil. Cover a rimmed baking sheet with the salt to form a “salt bed.” Place the tomatoes closely together bottom side down on the salt bed. Place sheet on the grill on the cooking grate over low indirect heat or in the oven. Slowly roast until the tomatoes are shriveled and soft, about 2 hours. Remove from the grill or oven and let cool. They will keep, tightly covered, in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

Master Instructions The Charcoal Grill Method

The Gas Grill Method

Build a fire by lighting 50 to 60 charcoal briquettes in either a chimney starter or in a pyramid-shaped mound on the bottom grate of your grill. Once the briquettes have become gray-ashed (20 to 30 minutes), move them all to one side of the grill.

1 Preheat the grill by setting all the burners on high. After lighting, close the lid and leave on high for 10 minutes, then reduce the heat of all the burners to medium.

Meanwhile, sprinkle your work surface with the grits or polenta. Place the dough in the middle of the surface. You can either roll out the dough with a rolling pin, stretch it out with your hands, or press it out from the center against the work surface. Ideally, you want a 12-inch by 6-inch, organically shaped piece of dough—a rectangle—¹⁄8 to ¼ inch thick (err on the thinner side for thin-crust pizza and on the thicker side for thick-crust pizza). Drizzle or brush both sides generously with oil. Our recipes call for 2 tablespoons, but we tend to use more oil when making our own pizzas, which results in a thinner and crispier crust. 2

Pick up the dough by the two corners closest to you. In one motion, lay it down flat—over the side without briquettes—on the cooking grate from back to front (as you would set a tablecloth down on a table). Close the lid and grill for 3 minutes (no peeking!), then rotate the crust 180 degrees and continue grilling until the bottom is well marked and evenly browned, another 2 to 3 minutes.

Set the pizza back on the grate over the side without briquettes and grill, with the lid down, for 4 to 5 minutes. Rotate the pizza 180 degrees and continue to grill with the lid down until the bottom is well browned and cheese is melted, another 4 to 5 minutes.

Remove from the grill, garnish, and season as directed. Slice and serve immediately.

Meanwhile, sprinkle your work surface with the grits or polenta. Place the dough in the middle of the surface. You can either roll out the dough with a rolling pin, stretch it out with your hands, or press it out from the center against the work surface. Ideally, you want a 12-inch, organically shaped piece of dough—round, square, or rectangular—¹⁄8 to ¼ inch thick (err on the thinner side for thin-crust pizza and on the thicker side for thick-crust pizza). Drizzle or brush both sides generously with oil. Our recipes call for 2 tablespoons, but we tend to use more oil when making our own pizzas, which results in a thinner and crispier crust. 2

Pick up the dough by the two corners closest to you. In one motion, lay it down flat on the cooking grate from back to front (as you would set a tablecloth down on a table). Close the lid and grill for 3 minutes (no peeking!), then check the crust and, if necessary, continue grilling a few more minutes until the bottom is well marked and nicely browned.

4 Use tongs to transfer the crust from the grill to a peel or rimless baking sheet. Close the lid of the grill. Flip the crust to reveal the grilled side. Follow the specific recipe directions for adding any sauce, toppings, and/or cheese. 5 Switch the grill to indirect heat by turning off the center burner(s) if you have a three- or four-burner grill. For a twoburner grill, turn off one burner. Set the pizza back on the grate over indirect heat (the unlit section) and grill, with the lid down, until the bottom is well browned and the cheese is melted, 7 to 10 minutes. For two-burner grills, rotate the pizza halfway through the cooking time.

Remove from the grill, garnish, and season as directed. Slice and serve immediately.

summer 2013 real food 31

Sausage & Sweet Pepper Pizza

32 real food summer 2013

Sausage & Sweet Pepper Pizza serves 2 to 4

Little Italy's favorite street sandwich—Italian sausage and peppers—comes to life on top of this crisp, smoky crust. This way you get more toppings and less bread. Now that's amore!

1 pound sweet or hot Italian sausage, taken out of the casings, if necessary ¼ cup uncooked grits or polenta, for rolling the dough 1 ball prepared pizza dough, at room temperature (recipe page 29) 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 cup Tuscan Red Sauce (recipe right) or Crushed Tomato Sauce (recipe page 29) ¼ cup pickled sweet and hot peppers, sliced 1 cup grated mozzarella cheese ½ cup grated Monterey Jack cheese 1 teaspoon B&E Sprinkle-icious Spice Blend (recipe below right) or favorite spice blend kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1. Place the sausage in a large, heavy skillet. Sauté over medium heat, breaking up any large pieces, until fully cooked. Alternatively, grill the sausage in its casing and slice before using. Drain on paper towels and reserve for topping. 2. Preheat the grill, roll out and shape the dough, and grill the first side of the crust per the master instructions for gas or charcoal on page 31. Use tongs to transfer it to a peel or rimless baking sheet. Flip the crust to reveal the grilled side. 3. Spread the entire surface with the sauce. Top with the sausage and peppers, then sprinkle with the cheeses. Finish grilling the pizza per the master instructions. 4. Remove from the grill, sprinkle with the spice blend, and season with salt and pepper. Slice and serve immediately. Palate Partner: Pick up a six-pack of Italian beer.

Bollywood Chutney Chicken Pizza serves 2 to 4

Indian flavors and Bollywood movies are quickly gaining popularity in America— and for good reason. Both are richly layered, colorful, spicy, and slightly chaotic. Why not take a break from the ordinary by making this pizza and watching a Bollywood classic? ¾ cup plain full-fat yogurt 1 teaspoon garam masala (an Indian spice blend) 1 teaspoon cracked coriander seeds 1 medium white onion, thinly sliced 2 tablespoons peeled and grated fresh ginger 2 cloves garlic, minced juice of 1 lemon 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon turmeric 2 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves (1 pound total) ¼ cup uncooked grits or polenta, for rolling the dough 1 ball prepared pizza dough, at room temperature (recipe page 29) 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 cup mango chutney (Major Grey’s) ½ cup grated smoked mozzarella cheese 1 ripe mango, peeled, pitted, and diced leaves from 3 sprigs fresh mint ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes continued on page 34

Tuscan Red Sauce Makes about 2½ cups

2 pounds (about 10) plum tomatoes 5 fresh sage leaves 1 teaspoon kosher salt 4 cloves garlic, roughly chopped 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, or more to taste 1. Place a 4- or 5-quart saucepan on the stove. Break each tomato open by squeezing it with your hand over the saucepan. Once each tomato is cracked, place it in the pan. Add the sage, salt, and garlic and cover. 2. Cook over medium heat for 45 to 60 minutes, stirring occasionally. The tomatoes will break down and liquefy as they cook. When the tomatoes are thick and saucy (about the texture of ketchup), remove from the heat. Let cool to room temperature. 3. Process the sauce through a food mill or strainer to remove the seeds and skins, then adjust the seasonings. Whisk in the oil.

B&E Sprinkle-icious Spice Blend Makes ½ cup

Enhance any pizza, salad, or flatbread with a shake or two. 1 tablespoon dehydrated onion 1 tablespoon roasted dehydrated garlic 2 teaspoons dried lemon peel ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes 1 teaspoon dried thyme 2 tablespoons kosher salt 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper 1. Mix all the ingredients thoroughly and store in an airtight container for up to 3 months.

summer 2013 real food 33

continued from page 33

1. In a large bowl, combine the yogurt, garam masala, coriander, half the onion, the ginger, garlic, lemon juice, salt, and turmeric. Add the chicken and stir to coat. Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours. 2. Thirty minutes before you want to make the pizza, preheat the grill per the master instructions for gas or charcoal (page 31). 3. Remove the chicken from the marinade and place on the cooking grate directly over the heat. Grill until no pink remains in the middle, 5 to 8 minutes per side, depending on thickness. Reserve for topping and slice just before topping. 4. Roll out and shape the dough, then grill the first side of the crust per the master instructions. Use tongs to transfer it from the grill to a peel or rimless baking sheet. Flip the crust to reveal the grilled side. 5. Spread the entire surface with the chutney. Top with the chicken and the remaining onion. Sprinkle with the cheese and diced mango. Finish grilling the pizza per the master instructions. 6. Remove from the grill and sprinkle with the mint and red pepper. Slice and serve immediately. Mix it Up: Knead ¼ cup caramelized onions into the dough.

Very Berry Pizza serves 2 to 4

Now you can enjoy all your favorite antioxidants and eat your pizza, too. 1 ½ 5 2 2 ¾ 1 ¼ 2 ½ ½ ¼

cup ricotta cheese teaspoon vanilla extract tablespoons sugar tablespoons finely chopped crystallized ginger zest of ½ lemon, finely grated with a micro plane or zester tablespoons all-purpose flour, for kneading the dough teaspoon ground cinnamon ball prepared pizza dough, at room temperature (recipe page 29) cup uncooked grits or polenta, for rolling the dough tablespoons vegetable oil (such as canola) or nut oil (such as walnut) pint fresh blueberries, picked over pint fresh raspberries, picked over cup honey

NUTRITION

1. Combine the ricotta, vanilla, 2 tablespoons of the sugar, the ginger, and lemon zest in a medium bowl. Reserve for topping. 2. Sprinkle the work surface with the flour. Mix the remaining 3 tablespoons sugar with the cinnamon and knead it into the dough. Set aside until ready to make pizza. 3. Preheat the grill, roll out and shape the dough, and grill the first side of the crust per the master instructions for gas or charcoal on page 31. Use tongs to turn the crust over. Continue grilling until the bottom crust is well browned. (Since you’re not melting cheese or warming toppings, you don’t need to switch to indirect heat.) 4. Remove from the grill and immediately spread it evenly with the ricotta mixture. Let your inner artist dictate how you arrange the berries over the top. Finish with a generous drizzle of honey. Slice and serve immediately. ■

QUEEN MARGHERITA PIZZA: Per serving: Calories 648 (336 from fat); fat 38g (sat. 13g); Chol 53mg; sodiuM 617mg; CarB 58g; fiBer 4g; Protein 25g

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FIRE-ROASTED TOMATO & CABRALES PIZZA: Per serving: Calories 816 (430 from fat); fat 49g (sat. 14g); Chol 39mg; sodiuM 1607mg; CarB 78g; fiBer 8g; Protein 20g

SAUSAGE & SWEET PEPPER PIZZA: Per serving: Calories 1019 (573 from fat); fat 64g (sat. 21g); Chol 100mg; sodiuM 2244mg; CarB 65g; fiBer 4g; Protein 44g

BOLLYWOOD CHUTNEY CHICKEN PIZZA: Per serving: Calories 789 (241 from fat); fat 27g (sat. 7g); Chol 67mg; sodiuM 434mg; CarB 105g; fiBer 6g; Protein 32g

VERY BERRY PIZZA: Per serving: Calories 828 (265 from fat); fat 30g (sat. 10g); Chol 42mg; sodiuM 160mg; CarB 125g; fiBer 7g; Protein 18g

Very Berry Pizza

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Spicy Salmon Burgers with Cilantro Pesto (recipe page 40)

Photography Terry Brennan Food Styling lara miklasevics

36 real food summer 2013

The Flip Side We asked Real Food contributors Bruce Aidells, Robin Asbell, Serena Bass, and Jason Ross to share their favorite burger recipes that offer a flavorful twist on one of summerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favorite foodsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;all sans beef. Our roundup, featuring tasty turkey, salmon, pork, lamb, and veggie burgers, will help you spice things up during prime burger season and beyond.

Turkey Burger with Apple, Lemon, and Basil (recipe page 42)

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Robin Asbell author/cooking instructor These burgers are reminiscent of the Mediterranean, with the classic combo of chickpeas, sesame, and lemon. This recipe yields a chewy burger that tastes like hummus, with a crispy coating of toasty sesame seeds for crunch. — Robin Asbell

Chickpea Sesame Burgers with Cucumber Yogurt Sauce Makes 4 burgers

Cucumber Yogurt Sauce ¼ cup cucumber, seeded and chopped ½ cup Greek yogurt ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon dried dill (or 2 teaspoons fresh) 1 tomato, sliced 1. P ut oats in bowl of a food processor and pulse three times to roughly chop. Add half of beans and pulse to a coarse paste. Add tahini, egg, salt, lemon zest, and cumin, and process to mix well, about 1 minute. Add remaining beans, scallions, and parsley, and pulse to coarsely chop beans. 2. P ut sesame seeds in center of a large, flat plate. Using a lightly oiled ¹⁄3-cup measure, divide bean mixture into four portions, tapping out onto sesame seeds. Turn to coat and move to perimeter of plate. Gently press to create ¾-inch-thick burgers. Chill 30 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, make the sauce: In a medium bowl, stir together all ingredients. Will keep up to 3 days covered in refrigerator. 4. Preheat a large skillet or cast-iron pan on high 1 minute, then coat with oil. The pan should be very hot. Place burgers in hot oil. When they start to sizzle, reduce heat to medium. Cook 2 to 3 minutes on one side to brown and form a crust, then carefully flip. Cook another 3 minutes, flipping if necessary, until burgers are firm when pressed. Toast buns if desired. Serve each burger with 2 tablespoons sauce and a slice of tomato.

Tips for Entertaining Outdoors 1 Always set up your food table in the shade— and consider the movement of the sun! 2 Buy see-through, folding mesh food covers to protect against insects. 3 Don’t dilute fruit juices or sangria with ice cubes in the pitcher; instead pour beverage over ice in individual glasses. 4 Keep bug spray, suntan lotion, burn cream, antihistamine cream, and Band-Aids readily available. It’s a tough world in the garden! —Serena Bass

38 real food summer 2013

Outdoor Market Umbrella, $649 - $740, Frontgate, www.frontgate.com

½ cup rolled oats 1 14.5-ounce can garbanzo beans, rinsed and drained ¼ cup tahini 1 large egg ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon fresh lemon zest 1 teaspoon cumin 1 large scallion, minced 2 tablespoons parsley, chopped ½ cup brown sesame seeds 1 tablespoon oil 4 whole-wheat hamburger buns

Chickpea Sesame Burger with Cucumber Yogurt Sauce

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Serena Bass caterer to the stars These burgers are of a delicate consistency and cook best in a nonstick pan with a little vegetable oil. Or, to avoid getting stuck in the kitchen if everyone is hanging out in the garden, just make sure they are firmly packed and lay them gently on a very well greased grill. They are great hot or at room temperature, and are a little bit lip-tingly spicy. Can’t take the heat? Cut out the jalapeño and/or the Sriracha. —Serena Bass

Spicy Salmon Burgers with Cilantro Pesto Makes 8 burgers

Cilantro Pesto 2 cups lightly packed cilantro leaves 2 tablespoons fresh mint leaves, roughly chopped ½ cup toasted macadamia nuts 4 ounces goat cheese 1½ tablespoons fresh lime juice ½ jalapeño, seeded and roughly chopped, or to taste 2 medium cloves garlic, chopped ¼ to ½ teaspoon salt, depending on saltiness of goat cheese ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 extra-large egg 3 tablespoons mayonnaise 2 teaspoons Sriracha chili sauce 1 pound center-cut salmon, diced into ¼-inch cubes ¹⁄3 cup finely diced red pepper ¹⁄3 cup finely diced yellow pepper ¹⁄3 cup diced red onions 1 tablespoon finely diced jalapeño 1 teaspoon lemon zest 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice ¼ cup panko breadcrumbs 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro 1½ teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 8 soft hamburger buns

40 real food summer 2013

1. For the pesto: Blend together all ingredients to form a rough, creamy paste. Will keep up to 2 days covered in the refrigerator. 2. In a large bowl, whisk together egg, mayonnaise, and Sriracha. Fold in salmon. 3. Add remaining ingredients and mix together. Refrigerate at least 4 hours and up to overnight; this helps breadcrumbs swell to hold together burgers. 4. Using ½ cup of mixture and slightly damp hands, form ¾-inch-thick burgers. (Note that you can vary the burger size to match buns.) 5. Cook over medium heat on a well-greased grill 2 to 3 minutes per side. Or cook in a nonstick pan: Heat 1 teaspoon vegetable oil to medium and cook burgers 3 minutes per side. 6. Serve with a thin layer of pesto spread over warm, grilled bun or dolloped right on top of burger. Cook’s Notes: The easiest way to dice salmon is to ensure fish is very cold and use a sharp knife. Stack two skinned fillets and cut into ¼-inch dice.

This pesto can be used in many ways: • Add a big spoonful to vinaigrette for a green salad • Thin the mixture and zig-zag onto cold tomato or cucumber soup • Toss with cooked, cooled new potatoes • Serve with grilled fish, chicken, or shrimp • Great in tomato and mozzarella sandwiches • And on and on!

Potato Crisps Makes 6 servings

A lot of the work for these delicious crisps can be done ahead of time. If you start the process the day before, bring the par-cooked potato slices back to room temperature (about 2 hours out of the refrigerator) before cooking; otherwise they will cool the oil and take ages to cook. I love these dipped in Seasoned Ketchup (below). 4 russet potatoes, unpeeled 4 cups peanut or canola oil 1 bunch rosemary

1 bunch thyme kosher salt to taste pepper to taste, optional

1. Using a mandolin or sharp knife, cut potatoes into ¹⁄8-inch-thick slices. Soak 30 minutes in a bowl of cold water. Remove from water and pat as dry as possible. 2. Heat oil to 300°F (using a candy thermometer) in a deep pan. The oil should be about 4 inches deep. Cook potatoes a few handfuls at a time until soft but not browned. 3. Using a slotted spoon, remove potatoes to a sheet pan. Reserve oil. When all potatoes are par-cooked, set aside until ready to make crisps (up to 24 hours). 4. Heat pan and reserved oil to 350°F. Add potatoes to slightly crowd pan; this will cause them to curl rather than cook flat. Cook, stirring constantly with a slotted spoon, 4 to 5 minutes. 5. With the second batch, add a couple stalks rosemary and thyme about 1 minute before crisps are done. Herbs should be crisp but not brown. (If you are only making one batch, the herbs can be added at the end of that process.) 6. Using a slotted spoon, remove to paper towels, dust with salt and optional pepper, and serve in a parchment paper lined bowl with the herbs set on top of the potato crisps.

Seasoned Ketchup Makes 3 cups

This is a complex and grown-up ketchup, addictive to people who like to push the boundaries of taste. Probably not the best thing for kids or tail-gating traditionalists but I think you'll love it. It's also amazing in sandwiches with smoked turkey or with cheddar cheese and crunchy lettuce. 2 cups tomato ketchup ²⁄3 cup sun-dried tomatoes in oil, drained and chopped 2 tablespoons chopped sage 2 tablespoons crushed garlic 2 tablespoons Columela sherry vinegar 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1. Using a food processor, blend together all ingredients 2 minutes. Will keep up to 3 weeks covered in refrigerator.

summer 2013 real food 41

SeRenA bASS continueD the wonderful thing about this turkey burger is that it is just as delicious as a side at brunch coupled with scrambled eggs and bacon. or chop up any leftovers and mix into a fresh tomato sauce served over spaghetti. never has a turkey worked so hard! —Serena Bass

Turkey Burgers with Apple, Lemon, and Basil makeS 8 BurgerS

2 ½ ¾ 1½ 1 2 2 2 ¾ ½ ¼ 8

tablespoons olive oil cup packed shallots, diced cup gala or golden delicious apples, diced teaspoons salt pound ground turkey extra-large eggs tablespoons fresh basil, minced teaspoons finely minced lemon zest teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cup packed fresh breadcrumbs or panko cup half-and-half soft hamburger buns

1. Heat oil in a medium pan over medium heat. Add shallots, apples, and ½ teaspoon salt. Sauté 8 minutes, until translucent. Set aside to cool. 2. Put turkey, eggs, basil, lemon zest, remaining salt, and pepper in a bowl. Add shallot mixture, breadcrumbs, and half-and-half, and gently but thoroughly mix together. 3. Set aside at least 1 hour, preferably overnight. 4. divide into 8 equal burgers. Cook over medium heat on a well-greased grill 2 minutes per side. remove from heat and let rest 5 minutes before serving. Serving suggestion: Serve with a thin slice of tomato, some torn fresh basil leaves, and mayonnaise in a soft hamburger bun.

Creating Healthy, Flavorful Foods 1 fresh herbs added at the last minute are the key to great flavor. as much as we just want to get the cooking over with, food will taste exponentially better if fresh herbs are added just before serving. 2 chefs talk a lot about “finishing” a dish. this means giving dishes a final grind of black pepper, squeeze of lemon juice, or dusting of crunchy sea salt just before serving. use maldon salt for its delicate flakes. 3 white balsamic vinegar is a new favorite of mine. it has a mature and complex flavor that isn’t too sharp. toss new potatoes (which have been simmered in salted water until cooked through) with it (rather than mayonnaise), add a handful of chopped scallions, and you’ve got a delicious side dish! 4 instead of using an oil-heavy vinaigrette, i like to roast plumtomato halves (cut sides up) with a splash of olive oil, salt, and pepper at 300°f for 1 hour. toss the room-temperature tomatoes with lettuces to create a juicy, tomato-based dressing. 5 and don't forget: you can always skip the bun and serve burgers on a pile of leafy greens. —Serena Bass

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jason ross culinary instructor I love lamb—the flavor, the fat, and more than anything the feeling, the idea of lamb. Eating lamb somehow feels special and exotic, like an ancient rite from a Mediterranean shore. Likewise, a lamb burger makes for a special burger, one best cooked on an open grill with hints of faraway flavors. This one features Manchego cheese and piquillo peppers. —Jason Ross

Lamb Burger with Piquillo Peppers and Manchego Makes 6 Burgers

Parsley-Black Pepper Aioli 1 tablespoon minced parsley 1 teaspoon minced garlic 1 tablespoon lemon juice ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon ground black pepper 1 tablespoon cold water ½ cup mayonnaise 2¼ pounds ground lamb 6 canned piquillo or roasted peppers 6 potato buns olive oil salt to taste pepper to taste ½ pound young Manchego cheese, sliced thin 1 small red onion, sliced thin

1. For the aioli: In a small bowl, combine all ingredients except mayonnaise. Add mayonnaise to mixture, stirring until fully combined. Will keep up to 1 week covered in refrigerator but is best served same day as color will fade and eventually turn brown. 2. Heat and prepare grill. Form lamb into 6 burgers slightly wider than buns. Don’t overwork or compress to ensure a tender, meaty texture. 3. Split open peppers so they lay flat in a single layer on buns. Brush buns with oil. 4. Season burgers with salt and pepper. Cook to desired temperature (I prefer lamb burgers cooked to medium, with any fats warmed and melted). Toast buns on grill. 5. To assemble, spread aioli on inside faces of bun. Place peppers on bottom bun, followed by burger, onion, cheese, and top of bun. Serve.

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bRUCe AiDellS cookBook author i like this burger because it captures the delights of Spanish cooking, in particular the flavors of chorizo, which is often used in dishes such as paella, stews, or soups. Because it can be difficult to find real Spanish chorizo in this country, i have added some of the chorizo ingredients—pimentón de la vera (Spanish smoky paprika), garlic, piquillo peppers (intense Spanish pimientos), and cinnamon—to fresh ground pork to yield a delicious profile. (adapted from The Great Meat Cookbook by Bruce aidells with anne-marie ramo) —Bruce Aidells

Spanish-Style Pork Burgers with Saffron-Pimiento Mayonnaise makeS 4 BurgerS

Saffron-pimiento mayonnaise 2 tablespoons diced piquillo pepper or pimiento ½ cup mayonnaise 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 teaspoon lemon zest pinch Spanish saffron 1½ pounds 80% lean ground pork ¼ cup finely diced piquillo pepper or pimiento 1½ tablespoons pimentón de la vera or mild hungarian paprika pinch cinnamon ½ teaspoon sugar 2 teaspoons minced garlic 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 cup shredded manchego cheese 4 large french rolls, split and toasted 1 heirloom tomato, sliced thinly 8 small hearts of romaine lettuce leaves

1. For the mayonnaise: Stir together all ingredients until well-blended. Will keep up to 1 week covered in refrigerator. 2. drop ground pork into a mixing bowl. Add piquillos, paprika, cinnamon, sugar, garlic, salt, and pepper. Using your hands, gently blend until just mixed (don’t overmix). Form into 4 1-inch-thick burgers roughly the size of the rolls. Set aside. (You can make these ahead and refrigerate up to 4 hours.) 3. To cook, grill over medium hot coals 4 minutes. Flip and grill 3 minutes. Cover burgers with cheese, cover grill, and cook 1 minute more, until cheese begins to melt. remove from grill. 4. Slather inside faces of rolls with mayonnaise. Place burger on bottom half of bun, then top with tomato and lettuce. Cover with top half of bun and serve. ■

NUTRITION

if you can't find a young manchego cheese, which is milder, use asiago.

chickPea sesaMe Burgers W. yogurt sauce: per Serving: calorieS 552 (247 from fat); fat 29g (sat. 5g); chol 49mg; Sodium 1000mg; carB 53g; fiBer 13g; protein 25g

sPicy salMon Burgers W. cilantro Pesto: per Serving: calorieS 371 (175 from fat); fat 20g (sat. 5g); chol 67mg; Sodium 872mg; carB 26g; fiBer 3g; protein 22g

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turkey Burgers W. aPPle, leMon, & Basil: per Serving: calorieS 190 (98 from fat); fat 11g (sat. 3g); chol 98mg; Sodium 551mg; carB 9g; fiBer 1g; protein 14g

Potato crisPs W. seasoneD ketchuP (1tBsP): per Serving: calorieS 195 (83 from fat); fat 9g (sat. 2g); chol 0mg; Sodium 124mg; carB 27g; fiBer 3g; protein 2g

laMB Burger W. PiQuillo PePPers & Manchego: per Serving: calorieS 723 (450 from fat); fat 51g (sat. 19g); chol 158mg; Sodium 1262mg; carB 25g; fiBer 2g; protein 41g

sPanish-style Pork Burgers W. Mayonnaise: per Serving: calorieS 864 (476 from fat); fat 54g (sat. 17g); chol 152mg; Sodium 1578mg; carB 45g; fiBer 4g; protein 51g

Spanish-Style Pork Burger with Saffron-Pimiento Mayonnaise

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Photography Terry Brennan Food Styling lara miklasevics

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p Fire U THE VEGGIES Delectable summertime sides made almost too easy.

BY MARIE SIMMONS

Grilled corn with sPicy chiPotle honey butter and Zucchini and suMMer sQuash with dried toMato and caPer vinaiGrette (reciPes PaGe 50)

summer 2013 real food 47

Grilled Portobello Mushrooms with Toasted Sesame and Scallion Sauce

Carrots and Leeks with Carrot Top, Parsley and Toasted-Almond Pesto

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Grilling, the great American pastime, makes summer meals a snap. Simply fire up the grill, throw poultry, meat, or fish on one side, add fresh vegetables on the other, and in no time, dinner is served! Tired of the usual side dishes? Take your grilled vegetables to new heights with these delicious recipes.

Carrots and Leeks with Carrot Top, Parsley and Toasted-Almond Pesto Makes 4 servings

Carrot tops, chewy when left whole, add great taste and depth of flavor when puréed with parsley and toasted almonds in a lemony pesto. If you can’t find carrots with tender tops, this recipe is easily adapted using all parsley or a mixture of parsley, basil, dill, or cilantro. 1 bunch (4 to 6) carrots with tops 4 medium leeks, with outer leaf, dark green tops, and roots trimmed extra virgin olive oil coarse salt to taste freshly ground black pepper to taste Pesto 1 cup lightly packed reserved carrot-top leaves, stripped from stems 1 cup lightly packed Italian flat-leaf parsley, leaves and tender stems only ½ cup extra virgin olive oil ¼ cup fresh lemon juice 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest ¼ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano ¼ cup lightly toasted almonds, coarsely chopped salt to taste 1. Cut tops from carrots and reserve for pesto. Scrub or peel carrots as necessary. Make shallow lengthwise slit in white part of leeks and rinse thoroughly with cold water to remove any grit. Pat dry. 2. Place carrots in a large steaming basket and arrange leeks on top. Set basket over 1 inch boiling water, cover, and steam 5 to 8 minutes, until vegetables are tender. Transfer to a platter, lightly brush with oil, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. 3. For the pesto: Combine all ingredients in a blender or food processor. Blend until mixture is creamy and pale green. If too thick, add up to 2 tablespoons cold water 1 tablespoon at a time. Salt to taste and set aside. 4. Meanwhile, preheat grill. Arrange carrots and leeks on grill grates and cook about 5 minutes per side, until golden brown. 5. Transfer vegetables to platter and slather with pesto, or serve with pesto on the side for dipping.

How to Grill Vegetables • Grilling is more about instinct than a specific time. Use a timer as a guide, but check in throughout the cooking process, flipping over food and moving it around on the grates so they don’t char. A vegetable is cooked when a fork or the tip of a knife goes into the flesh easily, not when the timer goes off. How-to continued on page 51

Grilled Portobello Mushrooms with Toasted Sesame and Scallion Sauce Makes 4 servings

Prepare the sauce first—because of their high moisture content, the mushrooms cook very quickly. Sauce 5 tablespoons flavorless vegetable oil 3 tablespoons unseasoned Japanese rice vinegar 1 tablespoon tamari or soy sauce 2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil 1 teaspoon grated ginger 1 teaspoon grated garlic ¼ cup thinly sliced scallions, including green parts 1 teaspoon brown or toasted sesame seeds 4 large (about 3 inches wide) portobello mushrooms, stems removed extra virgin olive oil 1. I n a small bowl, whisk together vegetable oil, vinegar, tamari, sesame oil, ginger, garlic, and half of scallions. Set aside. 2. Meanwhile, preheat grill. Place mushrooms round side up in center of grill. Cover and cook 2 minutes per side, until golden and tender. Transfer to a platter. 3. Spoon sauce over mushrooms and sprinkle with remaining scallions and sesame seeds. Serve warm, at room temperature, or chilled.

summer 2013 real food 49

Cauliflower Steaks with Smoked Mozzarella and Chopped Tomato and Oregano Salad Makes 4 servings

Soaking cauliflower in water will hydrate it with necessary moisture that, when heated, will steam the cauliflower from the inside until tender.

1 large head cauliflower, leaves trimmed and center core removed 5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 4 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon fresh oregano, chopped (or 1 teaspoon dried) 1 clove garlic, grated ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ¾ cup firm ripe plum tomato, chopped 3 ounces smoked mozzarella, cut into thin slivers

1. Place whole cauliflower rounded side up and cut down through the crown of florets to make 4 to 5½-inch-thick “steaks.” (You will also have a small pile of florets.) Place on a platter or in a baking dish. Use all of the cauliflower if pieces are large enough to grill, otherwise save small florets for another use. 2. In a large bowl, combine oil, lemon juice, oregano, garlic, salt, and pepper, and whisk to blend. Pour over cauliflower and gently toss to coat. 3. Meanwhile, preheat grill. With a wide spatula, lift cauliflower from marinade and place in center of grill. Stir tomatoes into reserved marinade and set aside. 4. Cook cauliflower, covered, 10 minutes. Flip and cook 5 minutes. Overlap mozzarella on cauliflower and cook 1 to 2 minutes, until cheese is melted. 5. Transfer cauliflower to a serving platter and spoon over tomato mixture to serve.

Grilled Corn with Spicy Chipotle Honey Butter Makes 4 servings

Slather this versatile Spicy Chipotle Honey Butter on warm corn bread, spread it on grilled corn, or add a dollop to a bowl of steaming black-bean soup. Leftover butter—if there is any—will keep wrapped and refrigerated at least a week. Spicy Chipotle Honey Butter 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened ¼ cup full-flavored honey such as mesquite, wildflower, or buckwheat 1 canned chipotle pepper in adobo sauce, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped, or more to taste 2 teaspoons canned adobo sauce ½ teaspoon coarse salt 4 to 8 ears corn, husked 1. For the butter: In a medium bowl, combine all ingredients and mash together with a fork until well blended. To increase heat, add more chopped chipotle 1 teaspoon at a time to taste. 2. Preheat grill. Lightly spread 2 teaspoons butter on each ear of corn and grill, turning occasionally, until corn kernels have brown spots all over surface. Serve warm with remaining butter.

50 real food summer 2013

Zucchini and Summer Squash with Dried Tomato and Caper Vinaigrette Makes 4 servings

For this recipe, select larger squash so you can create nice slabs of the delicate vegetable. Vinaigrette ½ cup sun-dried tomatoes in olive oil, rinsed, patted dry, and chopped into ¹⁄8 -inch pieces 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon small capers, rinsed and patted dry 1 tablespoon fresh thyme (or ½ teaspoon dried) 1 clove garlic, grated ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 large (about 10 ounces) zucchini, ends trimmed 1 large (about 10 ounces) yellow squash, ends trimmed extra virgin olive oil coarse salt freshly ground black pepper 1. In a medium bowl, combine vinaigrette ingredients. Stir to blend and set aside. 2. Cut zucchini and squash into lengthwise ovals about ¹⁄3 -inch thick. Lightly brush with oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. 3. Preheat grill. Place zucchini and squash in center of grill. Cover and cook 6 to 8 minutes per side, until golden and tender. Transfer to a platter. 4. Spoon vinaigrette over vegetables and serve warm or at room temperature. 

Prep Tip: or tender results, soak trimmed F vegetables for 20 minutes in a bowl of ice water before grilling. The extra hydration creates steam from within and helps vegetables cook to perfect tenderness.

Continued from page 49

• Timing varies with the size and type of vegetable. stagger cooking times so that the vegetables and your protein of choice will be ready at the same time. but don’t despair if the vegetables are done first; all of these grilled veggies are delicious hot off the grill, at room temperature, or even chilled. • There’s no need to oil the grates when the vegetables have been brushed with oil. • Always grill vegetables with the lid closed so the temperature approximates that of a very hot oven. • Cooking vegetables over indirect heat will help prevent charring before they are fully cooked and tender. To cook over indirect heat, preheat the entire grill to the highest heat: For charcoal: Fire the coals until red-hot. When ready to grill, push the charcoal to the edges of the grill to create a hot but tame heat source in the center, where you will cook the vegetables. For gas: turn all the jets on high. When the grill is hot, turn the center flame to low (or off) to create a high-heat environment without hot spots.

NUTRITION

cauliFlower steaks with sMoked MoZZarella and choPPed toMato and oreGano salad

CARROTS & LEEKS W. CARROT TOP, PARSLEY & TOASTED-ALMOND PESTO: Per servinG: calories 407 (297 from fat); FAT 34g (sat. 5g); chol 5mg; sodiuM 184mg; carb 23g; Fiber 5g; Protein 7g

GRILLED PORTOBELLO MUSHROOMS W. TOASTED SESAME & SCALLION SAUCE: Per servinG: calories 184 (175 from fat); FAT 20g (sat. 3g); chol 0mg; sodiuM 227mg; carb 1g; Fiber 0g; Protein 1g

CAULIFLOWER STEAKS W. SMOKED MOZZARELLA & TOMATO & OREGANO SALAD: Per servinG: calories 281 (201 from fat); FAT 23g (sat. 6g); chol 19mg; sodiuM 448mg; carb 14g; Fiber 5g; Protein 9g

GRILLED CORN W. SPICY CHIPOTLE HONEY BUTTER: Per servinG: calories 234 (114 from fat); FAT 13g (sat. 7g); chol 31mg; sodiuM 191mg; carb 30g; Fiber 3g; Protein 4g

ZUCCHINI AND SUMMER SQUASH W. DRIED TOMATO & CAPER VINAIGRETTE: Per servinG: calories 148 (109 from fat); FAT 12g (sat. 2g); chol 0mg; sodiuM 109mg; carb 9g; Fiber 3g; Protein 3g

summer 2013 real food 51

Sensational Sandwiches EVERYONE’S FAVORITE GO-TO FARE GOES GOURMET.

BY ALISON LEWIS

loBster rolls With CreaMY diJon saUCe (reCipe page 58)

52 real food summer 2013

WHO dOESN’T LOVE A GREAT SANdWICH? What used to be a kid’s lunch staple has taken on a new role in gourmet fare. Innovative chefs and home cooks are taking creative approaches to reshape the classic sandwich into a memorable main dish. From the bread to the spread, you’ll love these gourmet offerings with something for all ages and occasions. Bonus: All these recipes are just as delicious made with gluten-free bread. eXCerpted froM 400 BEST SANDWICH RECIPES BY alison leWis © 2011 roBert rose inC. WWW.roBertrose.Ca reprinted With perMission. all rights reserved.

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS summer 2013 real food 53

Sensational Sandwiches

Indian-Spiced Chicken Wraps Makes 4 servings

The flavors of a cardamom-spiced mixture combine with the Cucumber-Mango Raita for a delightfully flavorful dish.

1 teaspoon cumin ½ teaspoon coriander ½ teaspoon cardamom ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ¼ teaspoon cinnamon 4 (about 1½ pounds) boneless skinless chicken cutlets ¼ cup freshly squeezed lime juice 2 tablespoons olive oil 4 naan bread wraps, warmed 1 cup Cucumber-Mango Raita 4 lettuce leaves, iceberg, arugula, or other, to line naan

Cucumber-Mango Raita Makes 1½ cups 1 medium cucumber, peeled, seeded, and grated ½ medium mango (½ cup), peeled and chopped 1 tablespoon fresh mint, chopped 1 tablespoon fresh cilantro, chopped 1 cup plain nonfat Greek yogurt ¼ teaspoon kosher salt 1. I n a small bowl, combine cumin, coriander, cardamom, salt, pepper, and cinnamon. Rub over chicken and drizzle with lime juice. Toss gently. Cover and refrigerate at least 1 hour. 2. For the raita: In a large bowl, combine cucumber, mango, mint, and cilantro. Stir in yogurt and salt, and mix well. Use immediately or store covered in the refrigerator up to 2 days. 3. In a large skillet, heat oil over medium heat. In batches as necessary, cook chicken 4 minutes per side, until no longer pink inside. 4. Place naan on a work surface. Spread chicken, raita (¼ cup per sandwich), and lettuce among wraps. Fold edges over filling, roll up, and serve immediately.

ALTERNATIVE You can also grill the chicken for this recipe. Simply preheat a greased grill to medium-high. Cook chicken, covered, 4 minutes per side, until no longer pink inside.

54 real food summer 2013

SHOPPING You can also use broccoli sprouts, which are widely available. Also, choose zucchini that is firm with unbruised skin.

Californian Makes 4 servings

This is one of my favorite sandwiches. I love the simplicity of goat cheese and mayonnaise as the spread of this colorful vegetarian sandwich. If you'd like to include meat, add grilled chicken. ½ cup reduced-fat mayonnaise ¹⁄3 cup crumbled goat cheese 1¼ cups (about 2 small) thinly sliced yellow squash 1¼ cups (about 1 large) thinly sliced zucchini 3 plum tomatoes, thinly sliced ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons olive oil 8 slices multigrain bread 2 avocados, thinly sliced 1 cup alfalfa sprouts 1. Preheat oven to 450°F. 2. In a small bowl, combine mayonnaise and goat cheese. Cover and refrigerate. 3. Place squash, zucchini, and tomatoes on a large baking sheet. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and drizzle with oil. Place in oven, tossing occasionally, 20 to 25 minutes, until tender. 4. Spread mayonnaise mixture over 1 side of bread slices. Top 4 slices with vegetables, avocados, and sprouts. Cover with remaining bread slices (prepared side facing in) and press together gently. Serve immediately.

Indian-Spiced Chicken Wraps

LEftovers Use leftover raita served with chicken, seafood, or pork or spoon over toasted crostini.

californian

summer 2013 real food 55

Grilled Chicken Gremolata Sandwich

Grilled Roast Beef and Sweet Red Pepper Relish

STORAGE To store fresh basil, wrap stems in moist paper towels and refrigerate in a tightly sealed plastic bag up to 2 days. For best flavor, use as soon as possible.

56 real food summer 2013

Sensational Sandwiches

Grilled Chicken Gremolata Sandwich Makes 4 servings

Gremolata is a paste made of herbs, garlic, and citrus often found in Italy. ¼ cup fresh parsley, chopped 2 tablespoons grated lemon zest 2 cloves garlic, minced 1½ teaspoons Italian seasoning 1 teaspoon sea salt, divided 8 tablespoons olive oil, divided ¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice 4 (about 1½ pounds) boneless skinless chicken cutlets ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 8 slices ciabatta or Italian bread, toasted 4 slices mozzarella cheese 1. Preheat a lightly greased grill to medium-high. 2. In a small bowl, combine parsley, lemon zest, garlic, Italian seasoning, and ½ teaspoon salt. Stir in 6 tablespoons oil. Set aside. 3. Drizzle lemon juice over chicken and season with remaining salt and pepper. Cook on grill, in a preheated panini press, or in a large skillet 4 to 6 minutes per side, until no longer pink inside. Set aside. 4. Brush 1 side of bread slices with remaining oil. Place on a work surface, oiled side down. Spread 4 slices with parsley mixture. Top with chicken and cheese, cover with remaining bread slices (oiled sides facing out), and gently press together. 5. Place sandwiches on a preheated grill, in a preheated panini press, or in a skillet over medium heat and cook (turning once if using a skillet) 3 to 4 minutes, until golden brown and cheese is melted. Serve immediately.

ALTERNATIVE You can also broil the chicken for this recipe. Simply place chicken on a lined baking sheet. Broil, turning once, 4 to 6 minutes per side, until no longer pink inside.

Seasonal Ingredients Use these items to give sandwiches a seasonal flair: Summer: tomatoes, corn, figs, nectarines, peaches, melons, summer squash, and fresh herbs Fall: mushrooms, pears, winter squash, fresh herbs, apples, and nuts Winter: winter greens, apples, pears, citrus, winter squash, and pineapple

EXTRAS Serve any leftover relish on crackers, with cheese and crackers, on toasted rolls, or with fish, pork, or chicken.

Grilled Roast Beef and Sweet Red Pepper Relish Makes 4 servings

Sweet Red Pepper Relish is the star ingredient in this gooey grilled cheese. Sweet Pepper Relish Makes 2½ cups 1 red bell pepper, diced 1 yellow bell pepper, diced 1 small onion, diced 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar ½ teaspoon sea salt ½ teaspoon Italian seasoning 8 slices sourdough bread 4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter, softened ¼ cup reduced-fat mayonnaise 12 ounces thinly sliced roast beef ½ cup shredded mozzarella cheese 1 cup fresh whole basil leaves 1. For the relish: In a medium bowl, combine all ingredients. Transfer to a greased baking dish. Bake in 400°F oven 45 minutes, until vegetables are softened. Transfer to a bowl and let cool at least 30 minutes. Use immediately or store covered in the refrigerator up to 2 days. 2. Brush 1 side of each bread slice with butter. Place on a work surface, buttered side down. Spread 4 slices with mayonnaise. Top with roast beef, cheese, basil, and ¹⁄3 cup relish each sandwich. Cover with remaining bread slices (buttered side up) and gently press together. 3. Place sandwiches in a preheated panini press or large skillet over medium heat and cook (turning once if using a skillet) 3 to 4 minutes, until golden brown and cheese is melted. Serve immediately.

Spring: leafy greens, fresh herbs, summer squash, avocados, and berries

summer 2013 real food 57

Sensational Sandwiches

Lobster Rolls with Creamy Dijon Sauce Makes 4 servings

This famous sandwich of Maine is so good and makes a great special-occasion meal.

Chocolate Turtle Panini

2 1½ to 1¾ pounds live lobsters (or 1¼ pounds precooked lobster meat) ¹⁄3 cup reduced-fat mayonnaise 2 tablespoons dijon mustard ¹⁄3 cup diced celery 1 tablespoon minced onion 1 teaspoon lemon zest 2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper 4 small hoagie rolls, split and toasted

Makes 4 servings

These are to die for, as one guest proclaimed when I served them for dessert. Bonus: They are also simple to make!

1. In a large pot or Dutch oven, place lobsters in water upside down and head first. Boil lobsters 8 to 10 minutes, until meat feels just firm when you move the tail. Drain and let cool. 2. Remove meat from shell, tail, and claws, and coarsely chop. Set aside. 3. In a large bowl, combine mayonnaise, mustard, celery, onion, lemon zest, lemon juice, and cayenne pepper. Add meat, tossing gently. Spoon mixture into hoagie rolls and serve.

10 TIPS fOR mAKING GOuRmET SANdWICHES 1

Use only the freshest ingredients from start to finish.

leftover grilled shrimp, chicken, steak, or pork are great options for your protein.

slice and grate cheese for best quality.

Use fresh herbs, sun-dried tomatoes, sweet peppers, capers, various vinegars, and spices for robust flavors.

employ grainy mustards, chutneys, and greek yogurt for your sandwich spreads.

slice sandwiches using a serrated knife.

think outside the (bread)box and use artisanal or unique freshly baked breads.

toast bread for sandwiches with sauce or warm fillings.

serve sandwiches with moist fillings immediately.

5 tablespoons (5⁄8 stick) butter, divided 12 caramel squares (about 1 cup) 1 cup semisweet chocolate chips 8 slices challah or french bread ¹⁄3 cup chopped pecans 1. In a small saucepan, heat 3 tablespoons butter and caramel over low heat 5 minutes, until melted. Remove from heat. 2. Heat chocolate chips in microwave on high 1 minute, until melted. 3. Butter 4 bread slices and place buttered side down on a work surface. Spread over melted chocolate, and top with caramel mixture and nuts. Cover with remaining bread slices and spread remaining butter over unbuttered bread. 4. Place sandwiches in a preheated panini press or in a large skillet over medium heat and cook (turning once if using a skillet) 3 to 4 minutes, until golden brown. Serve immediately. ■

NUTRITION

10 grill your favorite sandwiches that are typically served cold.

INDIAN-SPICED CHICKEN WRAPS: per serving: Calories 670 (199 from fat); fat 23g (sat. 5g); Chol 116mg; sodiUM 1287mg; CarB 50g; fiBer 9g; protein 54g

CALIFORNIAN: per serving: Calories 433 (250 from fat); fat 29g (sat. 6g); Chol 14mg; sodiUM 710mg; CarB 35g; fiBer 10g; protein 12g

58 real food summer 2013

CHICKEN GREMOLATA SANDWICH: per serving: Calories 657 (352 from fat); fat 40g (sat. 9g); Chol 121mg; sodiUM 1102mg; CarB 24g; fiBer 2g; protein 50g

GRILLED ROAST BEEF & RED PEPPER RELISH: per serving: Calories 555 (208 from fat); fat 24g (sat. 11g); Chol 84mg; sodiUM 1787mg; CarB 54g; fiBer 3g; protein 31g

LOBSTER ROLLS W. CREAMY DIJON SAUCE: per serving: Calories 366 (81 from fat); fat 9g (sat. 2g); Chol 212mg; sodiUM 1358mg; CarB 35g; fiBer 2g; protein 34g

CHOCOLATE TURTLE PANINI: per serving: Calories 640 (329 from fat); fat 38g (sat. 19g); Chol 58mg; sodiUM 284mg; CarB 75g; fiBer 4g; protein 8g

OPTIONS If you can't find challah, any soft Â˝-inchthick white bread will work. Use any leftover challah for French toast or bread pudding. For best flavor, use as soon as possible. Shown here with a dusting of powdered sugar.

Chocolate panini

summer 2013 real food 59

60 real food summer 2013

Open Flames,

Vibrant Flavors Bobby Flay shares the influences, passion, and memories that fuel his barbecue addiction By Tara Q. Thomas

“Think about it: If you’re next door to someone who’s grilling, you don’t even have to know what’s on the

flay photo by Quentin Bacon; mesa Grill photo courtesy of mesa grill

grill. Just the smell alone is going to make you hungry.” —Bobby Flay

Bobby Flay has built an empire on the power of that scent, the combined power of smoke fanned by fat, of sugars caramelizing and spices roasting over the heat of an open flame. With six highend restaurants, a string of burger joints 14-strong, six television shows (three on grilling), and 12 cookbooks—including his latest, Barbecue Addiction (Clarkson-Potter, NY; 2012)—he’s made Forbes’s list of the top-earning chefs in the United States. That it all worked out this way is a surprise even to his mom, he told me, calling from Miami, where he’d just clinched first prize in the South Beach Wine & Food Festival Burger Bash. “She called me up a couple days ago and said, ‘How come you didn’t have me on Worst Cooks of America?’” he says, referring to a new Food Network show featuring, in his words, “really, really bad cooks.” “She’s not really a bad cook,” he says of his mom. “It’s just that her repertory was very, very basic—pork chops with apple sauce, lamb with mint jelly. And of course she wasn’t making the condiments; she was just opening jars.” He doesn’t begrudge her for culinary unimaginativeness, though. “She was feeding us. It just wasn’t gourmet; it was sustenance.” That he ended up a cook was a surprise even to him. “I was a high-school dropout; my father made me work in a restaurant he was a partner in,” Flay remembers. “It took me about six months to wake up; then cooking was the first thing I ever really got interested in.” The hook, in fact, wasn’t the adrenaline thrill of manning a hot grill (the hottest, fastest station in a restaurant kitchen), but the world it opened up to him. “I wanted more flavor,” he says. “When you’re eating what’s at arm’s reach, your world is whatever’s in the kitchen cabinet.” Cooking professionally gave him access to a far broader pantry than he knew existed. “My wife is from Texas,” he says. “She grew up with chile peppers on her table every day. Me, I’d never seen them before.” You could say that his goal in life since then has been to collect influences from around the world, with an emphasis on the bright, sweet, spicy notes common to warm climes. Mango, citrus, chiles, and spices show up liberally in dishes from his flagship Mesa Grill on Fifth Avenue in Manhattan to his burger joints (that winning burger at South Beach? A green chile burger). summer 2013 real food 61

Bobby flay’s green chili burger recently took top honors at the 2013 south beach wine & Food festival Burger Bash.

62 real food summer 2013

Winning Burger photo Courtesy of BBP; book cover and steak photo by Quentin Bacon

nd if there’s smoke involved, all the better. When I ask Flay what draws him repeatedly to grilling and barbecuing, the answer has nothing to do with the stereotypical he-man-bondingwith-primal-flame. “It’s not even the flavors I remember,” he says. “When I was young we’d go to the Jersey shore, and I remember my parents grilling things—hamburgers, hot dogs, every once in a while lobster, corn. What I remember is not even the taste, but the smell—the wood burning, the food cooking. That’s what’s intoxicating.” Combine those two obsessions—a quest for bright, vibrant flavors and an intoxicating dose of smoke—and you have Flay’s newest book. Consider Barbecue Addiction a crash course in some of the world’s best riffs on open-fire cooking. There’s a porterhouse given the Tuscan treatment with garlic and rosemary and a side of grilled Treviso radicchio, as well as jerked wings in a smoky, tamarind-infused glaze and scallops with a North African dose of harissa and tahini. There are recipes drawn from every corner of the United States, from oysters inspired by those served up in the Little Italy of his hometown, New York City, to Texas-style brisket, Carolina pork and Dungeness crab. “What I love is bringing in global inspiration to food,” he says. “I get inspiration in the food of the people wherever I go; you can learn so much through just what’s on their plates. If you find out what people are eating, you’re going to learn about their culture.” Maybe even your very own culture: The Curry-Rubbed Smoked Chicken Thighs might sound Indian, but in fact Flay devised the recipe in homage to the key part Charleston, South Carolina played in the 19th-century spice trade. A glaze of sorghum, the south’s answer to maple syrup, drives home the connection.

Barbecue Addiction is also the first of Flay’s books to give real barbecue—cooking low and slow—so much space. His SlowSmoked Pork Shoulder takes as much as six hours; the Texas-style beef brisket nearly ten. Is it worth it? Does someone as busy as him ever really take an entire day to tend to a brisket? Flay laughs. “As I mature, I’m more apt to do something that will take a lot longer,” he says. He’s also been converted into a big fan of The Big Green Egg (a ceramic cooker modeled on early Asian clay cooking vessels) and La Caja China (essentially a wooden box lined with metal]: “It’s kind of magical: you put in a large chunk of meat, and what comes out is so tender.” Neither requires much fussing. Then again, neither does grilling, Flay says. “Just think of it as a burner on a stove with grates on top.” And forget all the fancy grilling accouterments: “You need a spatula—a metal one,” he says, “and a pair of tongs—not too long; you want to be able to control them. Then you need a grill brush to clean the grill, and some silicone brushes to brush sauces on. That’s it.” As for what to cook, he’s big on fish—it’s the longest protein chapter in the book— but admits he really loves red meat. “A rib eye is my favorite cut—ask any chef and they’ll tell you that—but I also love a skirt steak, and it gets no attention.” He gives this affordable cut the full Flay treatment in his Cuban Skirt Steak (reprinted here), a recipe inspired not by travels to Cuba but just to Miami. “It’s an incredible melting pot of Latin cultures and flavors here,” he says, “and it’s got all the flavors I love to reach for—fruity, acidic, spicy, herbaceous—it hits all my favorite notes.” Just imagine the smell when the marinated meat hits the grill. Even if your neighbors don’t know what’s cooking, they are going to get hungry. 

Cuban Skirt Steak with Tomato Escabeche and Mango Steak Sauce makes 4 servings

This is so aromatic; you can smell the garlic in the marinade the instant the steak hits the grill. I think of Cuban food as reinforcement cooking because you see many of the same ingredients (think garlic, oregano, cumin) played out in a multitude of dishes. It’s definitely positive reinforcement—it’s all delicious. Tomato escabeche is a fresh salsa or relish served with all sorts of traditional Cuban dishes. A purée of ripe mangoes thickens and flavors the savory steak sauce. Skirt Steak 8 garlic cloves, chopped ¼ cup chopped fresh oregano 2 fresh bay leaves (not dried) 1 teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted grated zest of 2 limes juice of 2 limes ¼ cup canola oil 1½ pounds skirt steak, cut into 2 or 3 pieces crosswise kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Tomato Escabeche 3 ripe beefsteak tomatoes, halved, pulp and seeds removed, and flesh cut into thin strips 1 small red onion, halved and thinly sliced 1 jalapeño, julienned 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice 1 teaspoon sugar ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper chopped fresh cilantro leaves

. Marinate the steak: Combine the garlic, oregano, bay leaves, cumin seeds, lime zest, lime juice, and oil in a blender and blend 1 until smooth. Put the steak in a large baking dish, add the marinade, cover, and refrigerate for at least 4 hours and up to 24 hours. 2. Heat your grill to high for direct grilling. Thirty minutes before cooking, remove the steak from the refrigerator and from the marinade and transfer to a plate. 3. Make the tomato escabeche: Combine the tomatoes, red onion, jalapeño, vinegar, lime juice, sugar, and cilantro in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and let sit at room temperature for at least 30 minutes. 4. Season the steaks with salt and pepper on both sides. Grill on both sides until golden brown, slightly charred, and cooked to medium-rare, about 5 minutes per side. Remove the steaks to a cutting board, tent loosely with foil, and let rest for 10 minutes. 5. Cut the steak against the grain and serve topped with the tomato escabeche. Garnish with chopped cilantro. Serve the mango steak sauce on the side (recipe follows).

Mango Steak Sauce makes about 2 cups

2 tablespoons canola oil 1 small red onion, chopped 2 garlic cloves, chopped 2 very ripe mangoes, peeled, pitted, and chopped ½ cup mango nectar 2 tablespoons ancho chile powder ¼ cup prepared horseradish 2 tablespoons clover honey 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard 2 tablespoons pure grade B maple syrup 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1. Heat the oil in a medium high-sided skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds. Add the mangoes, mango nectar, and ancho powder and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mangoes are very soft and the mixture has thickened, about 15 minutes. 2. Transfer the mixture to a food processor or blender. Add the horseradish, honey, mustard, maple syrup, and Worcestershire; season with salt and pepper and blend until smooth. Scrape the sauce into a bowl and let cool to room temperature.

summer 2013 real food 63

pairings

The Kickless Summer Sipper

PHOTO BY TERRY BRENNAN; FOOD STYLED BY LARA MIKLASEVICS

Let’s set the scene: You are hosting a daytime summer event, whether a garden party or special-occasion brunch or, more likely, a graduation. It’s a mixed crowd. Hot, humid weather. You want something inexpensive, but mass-appeal enjoyable. Moscato is frequently one of the favorite choices. This semi-sparkling, straw-yellow colored wine is the fastest selling category in the wine trade, with sales up 300 percent since 2009. It’s a wine meant for the table, not the cellar. It pairs well with deserts, can stand alone as a conversational apéritif, and is very budget friendly. But be wary here as well. Low-priced Moscato can be cloyingly awful. And there is no other varietal of wine where the price difference between the cheapest and the best is so little. Spend just a few bucks more for a Moscato d’Asti and you will be hugely rewarded. These Piedmont-based wines provide a mild level of sweetness with a nuanced acidity and extremely low alcohol levels, down to 5 percent. You would be hard pressed to find something better for a fine summer party and your guests can enjoy the rest of the day without an alcoholic fog from too much wine.

64 real food summer 2013

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