Lunds & Byerlys REAL FOOD Spring 2018

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Lunds & Byerlys real food spring 2018

Lunds & Byerlys

COMPLIMENTARY

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SPRING 2018

Beyond Brunch Delicious dishes anytime

volume 14 number 1

03

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A STEP UP ON DINNER: Tasty, healthy meals in less time COOKING UNCORKED: A splash of wine adds rich layers of flavor KIDS IN THE KITCHEN: Learning skills to last a lifetime

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Those who love to cook make more than food in the kitchen. They make the most of every moment together—sharing stories, creating delicious flavors and simply enjoying the company of close friends. For more than 80 years, Le Creuset has been a part of these special times, and a colorful companion to all who savor food—and life—to the fullest. To learn more about Le Creuset’s classic French quality, and the joys of cooking with premium enameled cast iron, visit www.lecreuset.com.

contents

real food spring 2018

Features 20 Beyond Brunch Jazz up dinner with twists on breakfast favorites

BY MOLLY STEVENS

32 A Step Up on Dinner Get a head start with one ready-made ingredient and still enjoy a balanced, healthy meal

BY ROBIN ASBELL

40 Cooking with Kids Help children create fresh, home-cooked meals and learn skills to last a lifetime RECIPES BY AMANDA GRANT

46 Dinner Uncorked Elevate the everyday meal with a splash of wine RECIPES BY FIONA BECKETT

52 The Tie That Binds What chefs Buddy Valastro, Rick Bayless and Carla Hall cook for the people they love

Departments 4 Bites Celebrate with crowd-pleasing sheet cakes RECIPES BY BRUCE WEINSTEIN AND MARK SCARBROUGH

6 Kitchen Skills Master the art of artichokes

BY JASON ROSS

8 Contributors 17 Ingredient Honey: Healthy sweet serum

BY LIANNA MATT

18 Healthy Habits Fight inflammation with food choices

BY ANGIE MURAD

56 Pairings Zippy Sauvignon Blanc

BY MARY SUBIALKA

2 real food fall 2017

LEMON SHRIMP AND GNOCCHI IN MASCARPONE SAUCE (RECIPE PAGE 34)

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Our Cover

Pecan-Crusted French Toast (page 24) Photograph by Terry Brennan

PUBLISHER JAMIE FLAWS EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR OF CONTENT TAMMY GALVIN EDITOR MARY SUBIALKA ASSOCIATE EDITOR LIANNA MATT ASSISTANT EDITOR CLAIRE NOACK ASSISTANT CONTENT PRODUCER KYLE SMELTER EDITORIAL INTERN TAYLOR WEEKS SENIOR ART DIRECTOR JAMIE BANKSTON GRAPHIC DESIGNER PAUL BOEHNKE PRODUCTION PROJECT MANAGER CINDY MARKING ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE ATHAR KAKKA

VOLUME 14, NUMBER 1 Real Food magazine is published quarterly by Greenspring Media, LLC, 706 Second Ave. S. Suite 1000, Minneapolis, MN 55402, 612.371.5800, Fax 612.371.5801. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Real Food is exclusively operated and owned by Greenspring Media, LLC. Printed in the USA. www.realfoodmag.com C

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The pages between the covers of this magazine (except for any inserted material) are printed on paper made from wood fiber that was procured from forests that are sustainably managed to remain healthy, productive and biologically diverse.

spring 2018 real food 3

bites

Celebrate Spring Bake these tasty cakes for any of your upcoming festivities

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fter the slew of holiday parties and family get-togethers, the last few months of winter are often used for some quiet time, but when the green leaves of spring begin popping out, there is so much to rejoice again. Whether it is the coming of sun-filled afternoons in the park with the family or Sunday brunch with a few close friends, a delicious cake says, “Let’s celebrate!” Try out these easy-to-follow recipes from “All-Time Favorite Sheet Cakes & Slab Pies” by Bruce Weinstein and Mark Scarbrough for a sweet treat that brings everyone together. —Claire Noack

Orange Cake with Marmalade Buttercream MAKES 16 TO 24 SERVINGS

This one’s pretty sturdy to sit under a thick, cream cheese-laced buttercream.

It’ll sure hold lots of candles! It’ll also go well with vanilla or chocolate ice cream—or even lemon sorbet.

For the buttercream 16 tablespoons (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened to room temperature 8 ounces full-fat cream cheese, at room temperature 2⁄3 cup orange marmalade ¼ cup heavy cream ½ teaspoon vanilla extract 3 to 4 cups confectioners’ sugar

1. Position the rack in the center of the oven. Heat the oven to 350°F. Generously butter the inside of a 13 x 18-inch lipped sheet pan.

2. Whisk the flour, baking powder and salt in a medium bowl until uniform.

3. Using a handheld electric mixer or a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, beat the butter, sugar and both zests in a large bowl until light and creamy, about 6 minutes. Beat in the eggs one at a time, then beat in the egg white.

4. Scrape down the inside of the bowl; then beat in the marmalade. Turn off the mixer and pour the flour mixture evenly on top of the batter. Beat at low speed while slowly pouring in the orange juice, until there are no bits of dry flour in the batter. Using an offset spatula, spread the batter into the prepared pan.

5. Bake until puffed and set, and until a toothpick or a cake tester inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean, about 20 minutes.

Cool in the pan on a wire rack until room temperature, about 1½ hours.

6. For the buttercream: Using a handheld electric mixer or a stand mixer with the whisk attachment, beat the butter and cream cheese in a large bowl at medium speed until smooth, about 1 minute. Add the marmalade, cream and vanilla; continue beating until creamy, about 1 more minute.

7. Turn off the mixer, add 2 cups of the confectioners’ sugar, and then beat at low speed until combined. Increase the speed to medium and beat, adding more confectioners’ sugar in ¼-cup increments, until the frosting is spreadable but can still hold its shape on the side of a spatula. Using an offset spatula, spread and smooth the frosting evenly over the cooled cake.

4 real food spring 2018

AVOCADOS MAXIMLESHKOVICH - FOTOLIA.COM

For the cake 20 tablespoons (2½ sticks) cool unsalted butter, cut into small chunks, plus additional for the sheet pan 2½ cups all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon salt 1 cup granulated white sugar 1 tablespoon finely grated orange zest 1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest 5 large eggs plus 1 large egg white, at room temperature 2⁄3 cup orange marmalade 2⁄3 cup fresh orange juice

Chocolate-Chocolate Chip Cheesecake MAKES 16 TO 24 SERVINGS

This one’s got about as much chocolate as we can force into a cheesecake: ground in the crust, melted into the batter and even shaved on top. We wouldn’t want to shortchange any chocolate lovers! Note that the recipe calls for low-fat or fat-free Greek yogurt. Full-fat proved far too rich, almost unctuous.

For the cake 12 tablespoons (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, melted and cooled, plus additional for the sheet pan 1 (14.4-ounce) box chocolate graham crackers, ground into crumbs in a food processor (about 4 cups) ¼ cup confectioners’ sugar 2 tablespoons whole or 2% milk 1½ pounds full-fat cream cheese, softened to room temperature 1¼ cups granulated white sugar 1 cup plain low-fat or fat-free Greek yogurt 5 large eggs, at room temperature 12 ounces chopped bittersweet or semisweet chocolate or bittersweet chocolate chips, melted and cooled to room temperature ¼ cup unsweetened cocoa powder 1 pound (about 2 cups) mini chocolate chips Sweetened Whipped Cream (recipe right) 1 (4-ounce) bar or chunk semisweet chocolate, for topping

Sweetened Whipped Cream 3 cups cold heavy cream ½ cup confectioners’ sugar 1 tablespoon vanilla extract

1. Position the rack in the center of the oven. Heat the oven to 350°F. Generously butter the inside of a 13 x 18-inch lipped sheet pan.

2. Mix the chocolate graham cracker crumbs, melted butter, confectioners’ sugar and milk in a large bowl until uniform and moistened.

Pour and spread this mixture into the prepared pan, then use clean, dry fingers to press it into an even crust across the bottom and up the sides of the prepared sheet pan.

3. Using a handheld electric mixer or a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, beat the cream cheese and white sugar in a large bowl at medium speed until light and smooth, about 3 minutes.

4. Beat in the yogurt until smooth. Beat in the eggs one at a time, then beat in the melted chocolate and cocoa powder until evenly distributed. Scrape down and remove the beaters or paddle.

5. Using a silicone spatula, fold in the chocolate chips until evenly distributed. Pour and spread this mixture into the prepared crust.

6. Bake until puffed and set with the barest jiggle at its center when tapped, about 35 minutes. Cool in the pan on a wire rack to room temperature, about 3 hours. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or up to 2 days.

7. For the Sweetened Whipped Cream: Using a handheld electric mixer or a stand mixer with the whisk attachment, beat the cream, confectioners’ sugar and vanilla in a large bowl at high speed just until it holds a soft shape on a silicone spatula.

8. Spread the whipped cream evenly over the cheesecake. To make chocolate curls, run a vegetable peeler down the long side of the chocolate bar or across a flat surface of the chunk, letting the resulting curl fall onto the cheesecake below.

Soldier on until the cake is evenly covered with the curls.

Cook’s Note: You may not use all of the chocolate to make the curls. You need a large enough block so you can hold it steady. ■

RECIPES AND PHOTOS FROM “ALL-TIME FAVORITE SHEET CAKES & SLAB PIES” BY BRUCE WEINSTEIN AND MARK SCARBROUGH © 2017 REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM ST. MARTIN’S PRESS. PHOTOGRAPHS BY ERIC MEDSKER.

spring 2018 real food 5

kitchen skills

The Art of Artichokes Take the sting out of often-intimidating artichokes

BY JASON ROSS

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rtichokes can be a bit intimidating. A member of the thistle family, the artichoke’s edible sections include the heart, stems and the small bites pulled from the base of the leaves. Still, they have sharp points. They require some technical preparation. Even their nickname, “chokes,” is less than friendly. But this uniquely shaped vegetable can become a family favorite, a signal of a special occasion or simply a meal to welcome spring.

TRICKS OF THE TRADE

• Handling raw artichokes will often leave a sticky resin on your hands, which is difficult to remove with soap. Try a little lemon juice from a halved lemon, and the resin will wipe away easily.

• The cut surface of an artichoke will brown within minutes.

Rub them with a halved lemon to keep them green as you work with them. Store cut raw artichokes in acidulated cold water (water with a little lemon juice added).

• Do not eat the choke. The stringy bits inside an artichoke are called the “choke” for a reason.

The points are fine and sharp, and they will stick to the skin in your throat if you swallow them.

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

6 real food spring 2018

Stuffed Artichokes MAKES 6 SERVINGS

This recipe elevates whole poached artichokes with a rich and flavorful breadcrumb stuffing.

3 ¼ 1 1 1 2 3 ¼ ¼

cups panko breadcrumbs cup grated Parmesan teaspoon dry oregano teaspoon salt few grinds black pepper clove garlic, finely minced tablespoons (¼ stick) butter, melted whole artichokes, prepared and cooked (See Poached Artichokes at right) cup olive oil cup water

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. 2. In a medium mixing bowl, combine panko, Parmesan, oregano, salt, pepper, garlic and butter using a rubber spatula or wooden spoon.

Set aside.

3. With a serrated bread knife, carefully split the cooked artichokes in half lengthwise, splitting the stem as you cut.

4. Use a spoon to hollow out the cut artichokes by removing all stringy fibers, the choke from the center of the cut artichoke, and any inner leaves with spiky tips.

5. Equally fill the artichoke halves with the panko stuffing. Pour olive oil and water into a baking pan and arrange the stuffed artichokes so they fit snugly in the pan. Cover with foil.

6. Cook the stuffed artichokes in the preheated oven for 20 minutes. Remove the foil and cook for another 5 minutes until panko breading is toasted and brown.

7. Serve on warm plates and drizzle any residual olive oil or cooking liquid from the pan over the stuffed artichokes. Eat the artichoke hearts, stuffing and stem with a knife and fork, and pull the leaves for a few choice bites.

8. The breadcrumb stuffing can be made, covered and refrigerated for up to 7 days. The artichokes could be poached, stuffed and refrigerated the day before you plan to serve them and then cooked in the oven to serve.

Poached Artichokes with Dipping Sauces

DIJON VINAIGRETTE

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

This is the most efficient and fun way to prepare and enjoy artichokes at home.

It takes the least amount of time to make and therefore the most amount of time to eat. Once at the table, you and your guests pull apart, dip and scrape the bits of edible flesh on the leaves until you reach the prized heart of the artichoke.

1 2 1 1 2 3 3 6

cup dry white wine, but any white wine on hand will do fine celery stalks cut into 2-inch chunks peeled carrot cut into 2-inch chunks yellow onion, peeled and quartered cloves garlic, peeled tablespoons lemon juice tablespoons salt fresh artichokes

NUTRITION

1. Fill a large pot with 2 quarts of water and all of the ingredients except the artichokes. Set aside.

2. Use a serrated bread knife or a sharp chef’s knife to trim most of the woody stem of each artichoke, leaving about 1 inch. Next, using a peeler, peel the tough skin off of the remaining stem, leaving a light green, 1-inch peeled stem still attached to the artichoke.

3. Remove any small, off-colored or particularly tough outer leaves until you get to bright green leaves. (On average, this is about 5 to 7 leaves for a mediumsized artichoke.)

4. With your knife, trim 1 to 2 inches off the top of each artichoke, removing the pointy spines. If any of the leaves still have spines, use kitchen shears or scissors to trim off the tips. To prevent browning, place the trimmed artichokes in the pot of seasoned cooking water as you cut them.

5. After all the artichokes are trimmed and in the water, set the pot on the stove over medium-high heat and bring to a boil. Then lower the heat and cover the pot. Simmer the artichokes for 25 to 40 minutes, depending on their size. Check for doneness by inserting the tip of a paring knife into the thickest part of the base. It should pierce the artichoke easily and not feel any grainy resistance, similar to the feel of a boiled potato.

6. When they are done cooking, remove the artichokes from the hot water using a slotted spoon and place on serving plates. Cool slightly until they are safe to handle and ready to serve with dipping sauces. They are best served on the same day but can be chilled and wrapped in the refrigerator 1 day in advance, although they may lose some flavor and darken slightly.

7. To eat, remove leaves individually, dip in the sauces, and using your teeth, scrape the flesh off each leaf, discarding the inedible tips and woody parts. As you pull leaves, they will change color from dark green to yellow, and become tenderer. In the center the spiky purple leaves and the stringy hairs of the choke should be removed using a spoon and discarded. The remaining prized base and stem are called the artichoke heart. Cut the artichoke heart with a knife and fork, dip and enjoy.

STUFFED ARTICHOKES: PER SERVING: CALORIES 283 (130 from fat); FAT 15g (sat. 5g); CHOL 13mg; SODIUM 745mg; CARB 34g; FIBER 5g; PROTEIN 7g

POACHED ARTICHOKES: PER SERVING: CALORIES 70 (4 from fat); FAT 0g (sat. 0g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 345mg; CARB 15g; FIBER 7g; PROTEIN 4g

SAUCES (1 TABLESPOON): Drawn Butter: CALORIES 112 Dijon Vinaigrette: CALORIES 73 Garlic Aioli: CALORIES 84

Dipping Sauces MAKES 6 SERVINGS EACH

Here are three classic sauces for dipping poached artichokes. There are a lot of leaves, so plan to give each guest their own ramekin of the sauce(s) you serve.

Drawn Butter 1. In a small pot on low heat, melt 8 ounces (2 sticks) butter. Using a slotted spoon, skim off any solids that float to the surface. Continue skimming for roughly 5 to 10 minutes until all solids are removed and there is clear butter on the top and the heavier solids and liquids have sunk to the bottom of the pot. Turn off heat and carefully decant the clear liquid butter, either pouring or spooning it off and leaving behind the discardable solids. Serve drawn butter warm immediately or store refrigerated and covered in a container for up to 1 month.

Dijon Vinaigrette 1. Trim, peel and mince 1 shallot and put in a medium mixing bowl. Toss with a pinch of salt.

Wait 5 to 10 minutes for the shallots to soften and release moisture.

2. Remove the leaves from 1 sprig fresh parsley and finely mince leaves.

3. Stir the minced parsley, 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard, a grind of black pepper and ¼ cup white wine vinegar into the macerated shallots. Slowly whisk in ¾ cup light flavored olive oil (preferably not extra virgin, which is too strongly flavored for this). Taste the vinaigrette and add salt, vinegar or oil as needed. Serve immediately or store refrigerated and covered for 5 days.

Garlic Aioli 1. In a medium mixing bowl, combine 1 garlic clove, finely minced; ½ teaspoon salt; 1 tablespoon lemon juice; 1 tablespoon cold water; and 1 cup prepared mayonnaise using a whisk until fully incorporated. Serve immediately or store refrigerated and covered for 5 days. ■

spring 2018 real food 7

contributors

Robin Asbell spreads the

word about how truly delicious and beautiful whole, real foods can be through her work as an author, cooking teacher and private chef.

She likes to create delicious dishes that range from meat and seafood to beans and grains using global flavors.

Her latest book is “300 Best Blender Recipes Using Your Vitamix.” She is also the author of “Great Bowls of Food: Grain Bowls, Buddha Bowls, Broth Bowls and More”; “Juice It!”; “Big Vegan: Over 350 Recipes, No Meat, No Dairy, All Delicious”; The New Vegetarian”; and “Gluten-Free Pasta.”

Lara Miklasevics began her

food career on the other side of the camera, cooking at the renowned New French Café in Minneapolis. Today her work as a stylist is in demand at corporations including Heinz, Target and General Mills, as well as with many magazines. She prides herself on using her experience as a chef to make food as appealing on the page as it is on the plate.

Amanda Grant’s passion is

encouraging as many children as possible to be excited about food, to enjoy cooking and to help families eat well. She has worked as food editor for a variety of food magazines and has written for many newspapers and magazines, including The Guardian and Delicious. Grant is the author of several cookbooks, including “Healthy Lunchboxes for Kids.” Two of her cookbooks were listed in BBC Good Food’s Top 5 Children’s Cookbooks, one of which was the previous edition of “Kids in the Kitchen” (originally published as “Cook School.”)

Terry Brennan is a

Molly Stevens is an award-

winning cookbook author and cooking teacher. Her two cookbooks, “All About Roasting” and “All About Braising” both earned James Beard Awards and IACP (International Association of Culinary Professionals) awards.

Her recipes and tips have appeared in Fine Cooking, The Wall Street Journal, Everyday with Rachel Ray, Real Simple, Bon Appétit, Saveur and other publications. Classically trained as a chef in France, Stevens has directed programs and taught at the French Culinary Institute, New England Culinary Institute, and L’Ecole de Cuisine La Varenne in Burgundy, France and Venice, Italy. Stevens continues to travel and teach cooking classes across the country. She lives near Burlington, Vermont.

8 real food spring 2018

Minneapolis-based photographer whose commercial and editorial work can be seen across the country. His clients include Target, Hormel, Land O’Lakes, General Mills and United Health Care. “Editorial photography is my passion and working closely with Real Food is always a highlight.”

Jason Ross is a culinary

instructor at Le Cordon Bleu in Minnesota and has worked as a consultant to help develop menus at many Twin Cities restaurants.

He grew up in New York City but now calls St. Paul, Minnesota, home, where he lives with his wife and two young daughters.

Fiona Beckett is a food and

drink writer, journalist and broadcaster.

She is the author of 23 books including “Fiona Beckett’s Cheese Course,” and in 2014, was voted Blogger of the Year by the International Wine and Spirits Competition. She is currently the wine columnist for The Guardian and has written for many of the UK’s leading food and drink magazines such as BBC Good Food, Decanter and Delicious.

She publishes the successful website matchingfoodandwine.com.

Lunds & Byerlys welcome

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xtra, extra, read all about it!” Or, in this case, “Extras, Extras, read all about it!”

As we look for even more ways to deliver added value to your shopping experience before, during and after your visits to our stores, we recently launched Lunds & Byerlys Extras.

By joining Extras you will have access to many features and benefits, including exclusive Lunds & Byerlys offers that will automatically be available in your Extras account and digital manufacturer coupons that you can easily load into your account with the click of a button.

When you checkout, all of your deals will be automatically applied to your purchase when you show the cashier the Extras barcode on your smartphone or provide the cashier with the telephone number you used to create your account. There’s no membership card that you need to remember to bring each time you visit our stores.

With Extras you can also set price alerts so you know when any of your favorite products go on sale. Another pre-shopping feature is the ability to create shopping lists from the more than 35,000 products that appear on our website and in our Lunds & Byerlys app.

When you create a shopping list you can also see which aisle or department a product is located in, and you can even sort your shopping list by aisle location to save time when you’re shopping. And if you decide to

take advantage of our online grocery shopping service, you can move all of your items from a shopping list to a shopping cart with just a few clicks.

Whether you access Extras from your desktop computer, smartphone or our Lunds & Byerlys app, your shopping lists and price alerts will always stay current and updated across all of your devices. To learn more about Extras, see the story on page 11.

We hope you’ll take advantage of all the great features Extras has to offer, and, as always, we would greatly appreciate your feedback.

Sincerely,

Tres Lund President and CEO

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Lunds & Byerlys meal solutions

Dinner in 30 Minutes or Less FoodE Expert Meal Solutions

B

etween work commitments, our children’s activities and everything else that needs to get done, it can be difficult to get dinner on the table. That’s where our FoodE Experts come in!

Easy to spot in their green coats, our FoodE Experts have a passion for food and an eagerness to share it with you. Looking for a quick and easy dinner option? Our FoodE Experts can share a variety of simple meal solutions that are ready to eat in 30 minutes or less. Take a look at some of their favorites.

La Bomba Nachos Katie Okochi, FoodE Expert at Bloomington Whether you’re getting together to cheer for your team on game day or gathering for game night at home with the family, La Bomba nachos are a crowd-pleaser! Just pick up a pound of Butchers Kitchen La Bomba Taco Mix, a delicious mix of marinated chicken or shrimp with fresh veggies, in our meat department and cook in a hot skillet with oil. Spread corn chips over a parchment paper-lined sheet pan and top with the cooked taco mix and shredded cheese of your choice. Bake for about 10 minutes in a 350°F oven until the cheese is melted. Remove from the oven and add the nacho toppings of your choice. These are hands-down the best nachos! And the best part? The seasoning and marinating is all done for you by our meat department. All you have to do is cook and serve. So easy and delicious!

Bacon-Wrapped Pork Tenderloin Nick Hall, FoodE Expert at St. Cloud Here’s my time-tested go-to dinner when I’m in a hurry: Pick up a bacon-wrapped pork tenderloin in the meat and seafood department or, if you’re feeling ambitious, prepare your own by covering a pork tenderloin in overlapping slices of bacon and topping with a dusting of paprika. Cook the pork tenderloin uncovered in a 450°F oven for about 30 minutes. Let the tenderloin briefly rest before slicing. Serve with L&B Asparagus Risotto from our frozen department. It heats quickly in the microwave. And, as an added bonus, the leftover pork tenderloin makes a great sandwich the next day!

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Personal Pizzas Virginia Zenzen, FoodE Expert at Highland Park My quick, go-to dinner is personal pizzas. I use either Flatout flatbread, found in the deli, or naan from the bakery as the crust, and top with pulled rotisserie chicken from our deli, L&B allnatural sausage, chopped veggies (sweet peppers, hot peppers, spinach, mushrooms, onions and tomatoes), a variety of sauces (pizza sauce, BBQ sauce, Alfredo sauce or Joe’s Roasted Red Pepper & Walnut Sauce) and cheese. I like this meal because there are so many combinations to choose from that will please any palate. I let everyone help themselves to their preferred toppings and then bake or grill each pizza to perfection! Serve with a side salad from our deli for some extra veggies.

Chicken Wellingtons and Twice-Baked Potatoes Jolene Satre, FoodE Expert at Chanhassen Dinner in half an hour? No sweat. Even a fancy meal can be whipped up fast. The first thing I do is head to the meat and seafood department and pick up a couple of Butchers Kitchen Chicken Wellingtons and two Butchers Kitchen Triple Cheese Twice-Baked Potatoes. Both bake up in about 20 minutes! Add some green beans with almonds from the produce department and a Fresh Express Salad Kit of your choice. There you have it—a delicious meal that looks like it took much longer to make. Our meat and seafood case has so many prepared options; it’s my go-to department for quick meals. I love that all I have to do is turn on the oven or heat a skillet!

Roasted Salmon and Potatoes Denise LeClaire, FoodE Expert at Plymouth This is one of my go-to dinners that I make at least once a week because it’s quick, delicious and good for you! Pick up some salmon with the skin removed—the meat and seafood department will do this for you—and season with olive oil, salt, pepper and L&B Tuscan Seasoning. Roast salmon and Butchers Kitchen Roasted Fingerling Potatoes for about 15 to 20 minutes at 425°F. Top a bed of baby spinach or arugula with quartered Love Beets and sliced avocado. Add cooked potatoes and salmon and drizzle with Asaro Agrumati Orange Extra Virgin Olive Oil. If you’d like to change it up, you can substitute chicken breasts or pork chops. ■

Lunds & Byerlys what’s new

Lunds & Byerlys Extras Lunds & Byerlys Extras is a new way to get the most out of your grocery shopping experience

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here’s nothing more satisfying than saving on your favorite products. And now, to help you save even more, we’ve launched Lunds & Byerlys Extras, our new digital program that provides exclusive deals and promotions for use in-store and online.

The features don’t end with deals as you can also create a shopping list, set price alerts, view your prior purchases and more.

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Set price alerts and receive notifications so you immediately know when your favorite items go on sale in our stores.

Extras members receive exclusive Extras-only offers as well as our existing text and email coupons, which automatically appear in your account. To redeem your offers you simply show the cashier your Extras barcode from your smartphone or you can provide the cashier the 10-digit alternate ID (typically a phone number) you used to create your account.

Clip Manufacturer Coupons Browse manufacturer coupons and digitally “clip” them to your account and redeem them online or in our stores. When you complete your purchase, the savings will be automatically applied to your purchase when you show the cashier your Extras barcode or provide the cashier with the alternate ID (typically a phone number) you used to create your account.

Create Shopping Lists Browse online or on our mobile app and save items to a digital shopping list (shown below).

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LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 11

Lunds & Byerlys nourish

A Fresh Start

Begin the day with quick-and-easy Nourish breakfast ideas

Green Grits MAKES 4 SERVINGS

We switched up traditional hot cereal, topped it with vegetables and made it savory.

3 ⅛ ½ 3 1 1 ⅛ 3 1 1 ¼ 4

cups baby kale cup (about 3 to 4 leaves) fresh basil, chopped cup water cups Full Circle Organic Chicken Stock, low sodium cup Organic Valley 2% Milk cup Bob’s Red Mill Corn Grit Polenta teaspoon L&B Sea Salt pinch of ground black pepper tablespoons Greek Gods Plain Yogurt medium avocado, pitted and sliced cup organic cherry tomatoes, sliced in half cup L&B Roasted Unsalted Sunflower Seeds teaspoons California Olive Ranch Olive Oil

1. Place the kale and basil in a food processor and process until greens turn into a paste, adding the water and scraping down the side until you have a smooth paste. Set aside.

2. In medium saucepan, combine chicken stock, milk, polenta, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil. Stir, cover pan and reduce heat to low.

3. Simmer, stirring frequently, for 12 to 15 minutes. Turn heat off and let rest, covered, for 10 minutes.

4. Right before serving, stir in greens mixture and yogurt. Divide between 4 bowls and divide avocado, tomatoes, sunflower seeds and olive oil evenly between each bowl. Serve immediately.

Baked Berry Oatmeal MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Looking for a tasty, healthy breakfast to grab and go in the morning?

If so, this baked oatmeal is the answer! Serve with yogurt and more fresh fruit, if desired.

2 cups organic rolled oats ½ cup unsalted pecan pieces 1 teaspoon baking powder 2 teaspoons L&B Cinnamon ¼ teaspoon L&B Cardamom ¼ teaspoon sea salt 2 cups Organic Valley 2% Milk

2 L&B Organic Large Eggs ¼ cup L&B Pure Maple Syrup 2 tablespoons butter, melted 2 medium organic bananas, ripe, sliced ⅓ cup L&B Dried Cranberries 1 pint blueberries

1. Heat oven to 350°F. Butter an 8-inch square baking dish.

2. In a bowl, combine oats, pecans, baking powder, cinnamon, cardamom and sea salt. Set aside.

3. In another bowl, whisk together milk, eggs, maple syrup and melted butter. Set aside.

4. Spread sliced bananas, cranberries and ⅔ of the blueberries across bottom of prepared baking dish.

5. Sprinkle oat mixture on top of fruit. Pour milk mixture over all.

Sprinkle remaining blueberries across the top.

6. Bake 35 to 40 minutes. Cool 10 minutes, and then cut into squares to serve.

Cook’s Note: This can be made ahead, kept refrigerated and then heated in the microwave for 1 to 2 minutes before serving.

12 real food spring 2018

Lunds & Byerlys nourish

Superfood Breakfast Parfaits MAKES 1 SERVING

Start the day with a breakfast you can feel good about! With protein-rich yogurt, fresh berries and chia seeds, this parfait is sure to keep you satisfied all morning long.

1 cup Stoneyfield Plain Low-fat Yogurt ¼ cup L&B Honey Nut Granola 2 tablespoons fresh blueberries

2 tablespoons fresh strawberries, sliced 1 tablespoon chia seeds 1 tablespoon L&B Goji Berries

Top yogurt with granola, berries, chia seeds and goji berries.

All Hail Avocado Toast MAKES 4 SERVINGS (2 PIECES PER SERVING)

This easy avocado toast is creamy and mildly savory. It has all the right fats to keep you going all morning or to kick-start your brain for a snack when you hit the mid-afternoon slump. Plus, it’s downright yummy!

2 2½ ¼ 8 1 4 ⅓ 2

whole medium ripe avocados tablespoons fresh organic lemon juice teaspoon L&B Sea Salt slices L&B SuperSeed Artisan Bread tablespoon California Olive Ranch Olive Oil small heirloom tomatoes, sliced into 16 rounds cup sunflower sprouts tablespoons chives, chopped salt and pepper, optional

Creamy Quinoa Porridge MAKES 3 SERVINGS

NUTRITION

1. Heat grill or broiler to medium-high.

2. Remove pit and skin from avocados; place avocados in a bowl.

Mash with a fork. Add lemon juice and sea salt. Cover with plastic wrap pressed down on top of avocado to prevent discoloring. Chill until ready to use.

3. Brush olive oil on each side of bread slices. Place bread on cookie sheet to broil or directly on grill grate. Broil or grill until golden; flip to other side and repeat.

4. Spread approximately 2 tablespoons of avocado mixture on each piece of toast.

Top with 2 slices of tomato, approximately 2 tablespoons sunflower sprouts and a pinch of the chopped chives. Sprinkle with pinch of sea salt and pepper, if desired.

GRITS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 350; FAT 16g (Sat 3g, Trans Fat 0g); CHOL 5mg; SODIUM 220mg; CARB 42g; FIBER 6g; SUGARS 5g; PROTEIN: 10g

OATMEAL: PER SERVING: CALORIES 420; FAT 16g (Sat 5g; Trans Fat 0g); CHOL 75mg; SODIUM 260mg; CARB 61g; FIBER 8g; SUGARS 28g; PROTEIN 11g

This is a delicious alternative to oatmeal in the morning, with 5 grams of fiber and 6 grams of protein! ½ 1½ ¼ 1 ¼ 2 ½ 1½

cup L&B Quinoa, rinsed (see directions below) cups chopped apple with skin (approximately 1 apple) cup L&B Raisins teaspoon vanilla extract teaspoon L&B Ground Cinnamon cups water cup Organic Valley Whole Milk tablespoons ground flaxseed raw chopped walnuts and bee pollen, optional

1. Rinse quinoa under cold running water using a fine mesh strainer for about 30 seconds.

2. Combine quinoa, chopped apple, raisins, vanilla and cinnamon with water in a pot and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low; cover and simmer for 20 minutes.

3. Stir in whole milk and remove from heat.

4. Spoon into bowls and top with flaxseed (½ tablespoon per serving).

Add raw chopped walnuts or bee pollen, if desired.

PARFAITS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 390; FAT 12g (Sat 3g, Trans Fat 0g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 220mg; CARB 52g; FIBER 8g; SUGARS 31g; PROTEIN 18g

AVOCADO TOAST: PER SERVING: CALORIES 370; FAT 23g (Sat 2.5g, Trans Fat 0g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 400mg; CARB 40g; FIBER 11g; SUGARS 6g; PROTEIN 9g

QUINOA PORRIDGE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 230; FAT 4.5g (Sat 1g, Trans Fat 0g); CHOL 5mg; SODIUM 25mg; CARB 42g; FIBER 5g; SUGARS 19g; PROTEIN 6g

Nutrition content of these recipes is calculated by a registered dietitian nutritionist. Due to variations in ingredients and measurements, values are approximations. Nutrients provided for these recipes represent values based on the best available information. This information is not intended to treat or diagnose. Please consult your physician for diet recommendations specific to your personal needs.

LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 13

Lunds & Byerlys

what’s in store

ASPIRE DRINKS Aspire is a lightly carbonated beverage that delivers healthy, sustainable energy derived from premium green tea, guarana and B vitamins. Each can has a unique combination of natural, active ingredients that fuel your metabolism to help you burn more calories and support a healthy lifestyle.

Flavors include cranberry, mango lemonade, and apple + acai.

Did you know? Aspire is loaded with vitamins and nutrients and is free of sugar, calories and carbs.

VERONI ITALIAN MEATS Since 1925, the Veroni family has been handcrafting salume in the northern hills of Italy. Four generations have upheld the same original recipes of gourmet mortadella, artisanal roasted hams and slow-aged salami. With Veroni’s thinly sliced meats, you can now enjoy the true flavors of Italy in your own home.

Tip: For unconventional but unbelievably delicious pairings, try salami with kiwi fruit, mortadella with pears, and cooked ham with pineapple.

TEAVANA CRAFT ICED TEAS Teavana’s new bottled craft iced teas are a family of expertly blended iced teas, crafted from the finest teas, botanicals and premium, natural fruit flavors. With just the right amount of sweetness, the teas are filled with vibrant flavor in each refreshing sip. Try all four flavors: mango black tea, pineapple berry blue herbal tea, peach green tea and Meyer lemon black tea.

Did you know? Each bottle of iced tea contains 100 calories or less and has just the right amount of sweetness.

14 real food spring 2018

Lunds & Byerlys what’s in store

KOUIGN AMANN The Kouign Amann (pronounced Queen A-mahn) is a French pastry that’s muffin-shaped and made from croissant dough. The sweet and salty pastry boasts a salted and caramelized crunch, tender layers of pastry and a gooey buttery center. It’s a delicious breakfast treat or dessert. Look for it at the bakery counter at any Lunds & Byerlys.

Did you know? This pastry was the brainchild of Yves-René Scordia from the French town of Douarnenez in Brittany. Scordia named it for the Breton words for cake (‘kouign’) and butter (‘amann’).

HALO TOP DAIRY-FREE ICE CREAM Halo Top’s most popular ice cream flavors are now available dairy-free. The decadent vegan ice cream is made with coconut milk and all-natural flavors. And each pint is packed with protein and low in calories and sugar. Dairy-free flavors include sea salt caramel, chocolate covered banana, chocolate, oatmeal cookie, peanut butter cup, cinnamon roll and caramel macchiato.

L&B SOLID WHITE TUNA Our L&B Solid White Tuna is a whole tuna loin that is sustainably harvested from the waters of the Pacific Northwest.

The hook-and-line caught premium white albacore tuna fillets come from a fishery that is certified to the Marine Stewardship Council’s standards as a sustainable fishery. Once harvested, the tuna fillets are quickly packaged in water and never frozen.

Tip: Our L&B Solid White Tuna is delicious in your favorite tuna salad recipe. For an unexpected taste, add curry powder and grated Parmesan cheese.

Tip: Enjoy Halo Top Dairy-Free Ice Cream on its own or, for a unique take on an ice cream sandwich, try it sandwiched between two cooled cinnamon rolls.

LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 15

delivery and grill recycling on orders $499 or more and free

ingredient

Sweet Serum Honey can give the liquid gold health boost to your day

BY LIANNA MATT

PHOTO SHOWCAKE - FOTOLIA.COM

T

he magical nanny Mary Poppins once sang, “A spoonful of sugar helps the medicine go down,” but really, she should have said that about honey. Honey has been used for more than 5,000 years for both medicine and adding sweetness to foods, and it has a range of flavors and colors depending on which flowers the bees collect nectar from.

While the bear-shaped honey bottle or mason jar is somewhat ubiquitous packaging, that doesn’t mean all honey is the same. In the United States alone, there are more than 300 types of honey. If your honey label does not specify what type it is or says “wildflower honey,” it’s a blend, but the general rule of thumb is that light-colored honey is often milder than darker-colored honey. Clover honey is popular for its practicality (clover helps maintain soil quality), light color and mild taste, and it is produced all over the nation.

Compare that to orange blossom honey, another U.S.-produced honey, which is also light colored but has a more floral scent and a slight citrus taste. Most domestic avocado honey comes out of California (which produces 95 percent of the country’s crop), and has a darker color and exhibits a rich, buttery taste with vitamins, minerals and antioxidants similar to the aloe vera plant.

Honey comes in a few different forms, and liquid is the most common.

You can also get honey in the honeycomb (which is also edible) or as a whipped spread. This latter method is done by stimulating honey’s natural crystallization process and manipulating it so that it has a consistency like spreadable butter. If your liquid honey crystallizes, you can reverse the process by placing the container in a hot water bath. (Never microwave as this decreases nutrients.) To slow the crystallization rate, store honey in an airtight container at 50 to 70ºF and out of direct light.

No matter what type of honey you get, it all has antibacterial properties and antioxidants as well as vitamins, such as B6 and C; minerals, such as iron, potassium and manganese; and amino acids. Unfiltered honey includes bits of wax, pollen and other natural matter in it, which has been shown to help with seasonal allergies, too.

Countless parents and grandparents have told their children a spoonful of honey can help with a cough, and as it turns out it’s not just an old wives’ tale.

Several studies have shown honey’s ability to reduce symptoms, possibly because of its antioxidant and antimicrobial properties. Drinking honey in hot water or tea can also help soothe sore throats. (Remember: Do not let infants under one year old consume honey on the very small chance it could cause infant botulism.)

Honey is a sweetener with health benefits—a combination that seems too good to be true, but it is.

No matter how you use it, just a spoonful of honey can help the medicine go down and the day’s nutrition go up. ■

A SWEET SUBSTITUTION Besides adding honey to sauces, marinades and vinaigrettes, many people prefer honey over sugar when baking to avoid processed foods. If you make the switch, follow these rules: • Since honey is sweeter, use less honey in the recipe—1⁄2 to 2⁄3 cups of honey for every cup of sugar.

• To counteract honey’s higher moisture and acidity, for every cup of honey used, subtract ¼ cup of other wet ingredients and add ¼ teaspoon of baking soda.

• Lower oven temperature by 25ºF since honey burns faster than sugar.

spring 2018 real food 17

healthy habits

Silencing Inflammation Fight chronic low-grade inflammation with healthy food choices

BY ANGIE MURAD, RDN, LD

Wellness Dietitian, Mayo Clinic Healthy Living Program, Rochester, Minnesota

18 real food spring 2018

Vegetables and Fruits Ideally vegetables and fruit should take up most of the plate, and the more colorful, the better. Frozen varieties are just as nutritious and don’t spoil.

Choose veggies and fruit: broccoli, cauliflower, zucchini, cabbage, leafy greens (spinach or kale), berries and cherries Grains Whole grains contain the entire part of the grain, and eating them has been shown to reduce incidence of heart disease, certain types of cancer and type 2 diabetes. On the other hand, refined carbohydrates are grains that are processed to remove most of the fiber, essential B-vitamins, antioxidants and fat-soluble vitamins. Consuming calories from refined carbohydrates keeps blood sugar levels high, so insulin must be released from the pancreas to reduce them. Both chronic high blood sugar and insulin secretion lead to a cascade of events that cause an inflammatory response in the body. Several studies show that by increasing fiber in the diet, there is a reduction of glucose levels and a reduction of C-reactive protein.

Choose whole grains: oatmeal, brown rice, quinoa, whole-wheat bread and buckwheat Protein Sources Plants rich in protein provide fiber and antioxidants on a budget.

Freshwater fatty fish such as salmon, mackerel and halibut all contain omega-3 fatty acids. Grass-fed and organically produced dairy and meats contain higher levels of omega-3 fatty acids. Think of meats as a complement to a dish instead of the center of the meal.

Choose plant proteins: legumes (beans, lentils) and soy (edamame, tempeh and tofu) Fats Fat sources are divided into several groups. Saturated and trans-fats are associated with cardiovascular disease. Saturated fats usually come from animal products such as red meat, butter and lard. Some plant sources are also considered saturated fats: coconut, palm and palm kernel oil. Trans-fats come from processed foods. Unsaturated fats have many health benefits and come from plants. All fats are higher in calories, so portion control is needed.

Choose unsaturated fats: olive or canola oil, walnuts, seeds, ground flaxseeds, chia seeds, avocado and olives

BERRIES IGOR SIRBU - FOTOLIA.COM LEGUMES OLGAKRIGER - FOTOLIA.COM

T

he link between diet, inflammation and chronic diseases is a hot topic in research.

Inflammation is a normal reaction used by our body to fight infection or injury, but when the body stays in a mode of constant low-grade inflammation, this natural process can run awry and is often called “silent inflammation.” Several age-related chronic diseases including heart disease, arthritis, diabetes, Alzheimer’s disease and some cancers are thought to be associated with this low level of chronic inflammation. Your health care provider can detect inflammation by measuring certain proteins in the body: C-reactive protein (HS-CRP), tumor necrosis factor (TNF), Interleukin-6 and others.

A single, universal definition for an anti-inflammatory diet does not exist. However, research finds both the Mediterranean and Okinawan diets (named after their areas of origin) are associated with lower levels of inflammation and contain foods with antiinflammatory properties. The table on page 19 compares these two diets with the typical American diet.

If you are used to a typical American diet, the Mediterranean diet may offer a good option since it is easy to follow and also associated with long-term weight control. It contains every food group, and those most commonly eaten have many antioxidants, fats with omega-3 fatty acids and fiber, which all help reduce inflammation and prevent tissue damage. Both the Mediterranean and Okinawan diets encourage plant-based foods, which are low in calories, high in fiber and abundant in antioxidants. Even if you don’t completely convert your diet, the following foods are beneficial to include.

Dijon Parmesan Salmon MAKES 4 SERVINGS. FROM “THE MAYO CLINIC DIET, SECOND EDITION,” BY DONALD D. HENSRUD, M.D.

EATING PATTERNS AND HABITS The typical hectic lifestyle of Americans influences eating habits. Changing the way food is consumed is just as important as the kind of food eaten.

Eating slowly, mindfully and decreasing distractions can help decrease stress, overeating and poor diet choices.

Research about the anti-inflammatory effects of food is ongoing. Instead of thinking about individual components of a diet, follow a sustainable dietary pattern that incorporates a variety of plant-based foods to reap the most benefit. ■

Diet

Typical American

Mediterranean

Okinawan

Vegetables and fruits

Low intake

High consumption

High consumption

Protein sources

Red meat

Fish, legumes, nuts

Soy legumes edamame, tofu, temeh

Carbohydrates

Refined, corn, potatoes, few whole grains

Whole grains

Small amounts of rice or noodles

Dairy

High fat dairy sources

Low fat dairy from yogurt

Low to no intake

Fats

Saturated fat from animal sources

Olive oil

Lower overall intake

Other features

Soda and beverages with added sugar

Moderate wine intake

Moderate alcohol intake and green tea

Cultural features

Eat on the run, eat large portion sizes

Highly social & connected eating experience

Low calorie diet, highly ritualistic culture

cup Dijon mustard tablespoons low-fat mayonnaise cup grated Parmesan cheese cup panko breadcrumbs (4-ounce) salmon fillets teaspoon salt teaspoon ground black pepper teaspoons olive oil

1. Heat oven to 375°F. In a small bowl, combine the mustard and mayonnaise. In another small bowl, combine the cheese and breadcrumbs.

2. Coat the top of each salmon fillet with 1½ tablespoons of the mustard mixture and 2 tablespoons of the breadcrumb mixture.

Sprinkle each fillet with salt and pepper.

3. Heat a large nonstick pan to medium-high heat and add oil. Cook fillets for 1 minute or until golden brown. If the pan is ovenproof, place the pan in the oven to finish cooking, or place fillets crusted side up on a baking sheet. Bake for about 6 minutes or until salmon flakes with a fork.

Cook’s Note: Tilapia, cod or trout can be substituted for the salmon. Keep a close watch on the cooking time; fish can become dry if overcooked. When using a small amount of oil in a pan, you may need to lower the heat.

Anticipate longer cooking time if the heat needs to be lowered.

NUTRITION

VEGETABLES SERGHEI VELUSCEAC - FOTOLIA.COM SALMON MAYO CLINIC HEALTHY LIVING PROGRAM

CALORIC INTAKE Looking beyond specific foods, chronic inflammation is also affected by excessive caloric intake, especially in sedentary people with excess body fat, which releases proteins that signal inflammation in the body. Increasing physical activity and decreasing calorie intake reduces the size of fat cells, which reduces body inflammation because those cells then release less inflammation-triggering proteins.

¼ 2 ¼ ¼ 4 ¼ ¼ 2

SALMON: PER SERVING: CALORIES 244; FAT 12g (sat. 3g); SODIUM 704mg; CARB 3g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 28g

spring 2018 real food 19

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

20 real food spring 2018

Beyond Brunch

Jazz up dinner with breakfast favorites

A

BY MOLLY STEVENS

great way to shake up your weekly dinner routine is to transform traditional breakfast dishes into surprising and delicious evening meals. We’re not just

talking about scrambling up a skillet of eggs or sitting down in front of the TV with

an extra big bowl of cereal. No, we’re talking about reimagining breakfast favorites such as waffles, French toast, crêpes and eggs into satisfying dinners that will delight family and friends. The following recipes might give new meaning to the old saying that “breakfast is the most important meal of the day”—especially if you eat it at dinnertime.

spring 2018 real food 21

Cornmeal Waffles with Bacon, Parmesan and Black Pepper MAKES ABOUT 8 6-INCH WAFFLES

These savory waffles are packed with flavor and crunch. Serve them as-is or slather on a bit of Salted Honey Butter for an extra special treat. You may also want to try the alternative topping suggestions listed in the Cook’s Notes. Cut into wedges, the waffles also make an excellent accompaniment to tomato soup—perfect for dipping.

4 5 1⁄4 1 1 2 2 1⁄2 1⁄2 1⁄2 2 2 1⁄2

slices bacon tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small pieces cup finely chopped green onions cup all-purpose flour cup yellow or white cornmeal teaspoons sugar teaspoons baking powder teaspoon baking soda teaspoon kosher salt to 1 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper, to taste large eggs, at room temperature (see Cook’s Notes) cups buttermilk, preferably whole milk, at room temperature cup grated Parmesan

Optional Toppings Salted Honey Butter (recipe opposite page) minced green onion flaky salt, such as Maldon 1. Cook the bacon in a skillet over medium heat until crisp. Transfer the bacon to a plate lined with paper towels to drain, and take the skillet off the heat. Immediately add the butter and green onions, stirring with a wooden spoon to melt the butter and warm the onions in the residual heat. Set aside. Chop the bacon into 1⁄4-inch pieces.

2. Preheat the oven to 200°F and heat a waffle iron to medium-high or high.

3. In a medium bowl, mix together the flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt and black pepper. In a separate medium bowl, whisk together the eggs and buttermilk. Add the melted butter mixture to the buttermilk, scraping to get all the drippings from the skillet, and whisk to combine. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients, and stir until just combined. Fold in the Parmesan and chopped bacon.

4. Bake the waffles according to your waffle iron’s instructions until steam has stopped coming from the waffle iron and the outsides are well browned. Transfer the waffles directly to the oven rack to stay warm and crisp while you cook the rest of the waffles. Repeat with the remaining batter, taking care not to stack the waffles, or they will steam. When all the waffles are cooked, serve warm topped with Salted Honey Butter, green onions and a sprinkle of flaky salt.

Cook’s Notes: • For extra light waffles, start by separating the eggs. Add only the yolks to the buttermilk as directed. In a separate bowl, whip the whites into soft peaks to fold into the finished batter.

• Alternative topping ideas include: creamed mushrooms, chicken, warmed pepper jelly, chili or mixed green salad.

• Consider letting the waffles cool and use them to make spectacularly good grilled cheese sandwiches; Swiss cheese with honey mustard works especially well.

22 real food spring 2018

BREAKFAST PIZZA

CORNMEAL WAFFLES WITH BACON, PARMESAN AND BLACK PEPPER AND SALTED HONEY BUTTER

Salted Honey Butter MAKES 8 SERVINGS

1 stick (8 tablespoons) unsalted butter 2 tablespoons honey ½ teaspoon flaky salt, such as Maldon, or to taste 1. In a small bowl, whip together the butter and honey. Season with flaky salt. The honey butter can be covered and refrigerated for up to 1 week.

Let sit at room temperature while you prepare the waffles.

spring 2018 real food 23

24 real food spring 2018

Pecan-Crusted French Toast MAKES 6 SERVINGS

This irresistible French toast is all about the contrast between the custardy center and the toasty pecan coating—and adding panko breadcrumbs to the pecans means extra crunch. Baking the thick slices ensures the centers turn out tender and fluffy rather than soggy, and it leaves your hands free to cook your favorite sausages or bacon to serve alongside.

11⁄2 1⁄4 1 11⁄2 1 6 11⁄2 2 1 1⁄8 6 3

cups pecans, whole or pieces cup plus 2 tablespoons light or dark brown sugar, divided cup panko (Japanese-style breadcrumbs) teaspoons ground cinnamon, divided teaspoon plus pinch kosher salt, divided large eggs cups half-and-half teaspoons pure vanilla teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest teaspoon ground nutmeg to 12 slices bread, about 3⁄4-inch thick (see Cook’s Notes) tablespoons unsalted butter, melted confectioners’ sugar or other favorite topping (see Cook’s Notes)

1. Preheat the oven to 375°F and generously butter a baking sheet (a rimless one if possible).

2. Combine the pecans and 1⁄4 cup brown sugar in a food processor, and pulse until chopped medium-fine. Add the panko, 1 teaspoon cinnamon and 1 teaspoon kosher salt. Pulse just to combine, transfer to a plate or shallow baking pan, and set aside.

3. Whisk the eggs and the remaining 2 tablespoons of brown sugar in a medium mixing bowl until well combined. Whisk in the half-and-half, vanilla, lemon zest, remaining 1⁄2 teaspoon cinnamon, nutmeg and a pinch of salt. Pour half the mixture into a pie plate or shallow baking pan. Put as many slices of bread as will fit at once into the pan, and let stand for 2 to 3 minutes. Turn the slices, and soak until bread is well saturated, another 2 to 3 minutes.

4. One by one, lift the bread slices from the egg mixture, letting the excess run off and back into the dish, and press the bread into the pecan mixture. Turn the bread to coat all sides, pressing down so the pecan mixture adheres. Arrange the coated bread slices on the prepared baking sheet. Continue with the remaining slices, adding more egg mixture to the pie pan as needed until all the bread is soaked and coated.

5. Drizzle the tops of the bread with the melted butter and bake, flipping halfway, until the bread is toasty and brown, 30 to 40 minutes. Serve warm, dusted with confectioners’ sugar or any other favorite topping.

PECAN-CRUSTED FRENCH TOAST

Cook’s Notes: • Bread with a fine-crumbed texture is best for soaking up the delectable custard, and thick slices provide the best contrast of tender interior and crusty outside. Good choices are honey-oat, whole-wheat, Challah or old-fashioned sandwich bread. The number of slices you need will depend on the dimensions of the loaf. For instance, if it’s a big round loaf, 1 slice per person should be enough. If using a sandwich loaf, count 2 slices per person. French toast is a great way to use up stale bread, but a fresh loaf works, too.

• This French toast has so much going for it that it doesn’t need any adornment beyond the simple dusting of confectioners’ sugar, but it’s also wonderful with fresh or sautéed fruit spooned over top. Try caramelized pears, bananas, fresh berries or a few spoonfuls of gently warmed fruit preserves.

spring 2018 real food 25

STEAK AND EGG TACOS WITH RANCHERO SAUCE

26 real food spring 2018

Steak and Egg Tacos with Ranchero Sauce MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Steak-and-eggs is a perennial combination, but it’s even better when piled into warm tortillas and topped with earthy ranchero and cool slices of avocado. A crunchy slaw or green salad turns a plate of tacos into a complete meal, and if it’s not a school night, a pitcher of Margaritas turns it into a party.

For the Ranchero Sauce 3⁄4 cup canned diced tomatoes with juice 2 to 3 teaspoons minced jalapeño or serrano chile, without seeds, to taste 1 teaspoon minced garlic 1 teaspoon chili powder 1⁄2 teaspoon ground cumin 1⁄4 teaspoon dried oregano 1⁄4 teaspoon paprika, sweet or hot pinch kosher salt, plus more to taste 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

For the Tacos 8 (5- to 6-inch) corn tortillas 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1⁄2 teaspoon sweet or hot paprika 1⁄2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste for eggs 1 (12-ounce) New York strip or sirloin steak, about 1-inch thick 11⁄2 teaspoons plus 2 tablespoons butter, softened, divided 6 eggs ground pepper, to taste 3⁄4 cup (3 ounces) shredded Monterey Jack cheese 1⁄4 cup chopped green onions 1⁄2 ripe avocado, sliced 1⁄4 cup loosely packed cilantro sprigs

1. For the ranchero sauce: Combine all the sauce ingredients in a small saucepan, and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Add a generous pinch of salt, and adjust the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Cook until the sauce slightly thickens and the tomatoes soften, 20 minutes. Puree the sauce in a blender (or with an immersion blender) until smooth. Add the cilantro, and taste for salt.

Set aside in a warm spot.

2. For the tacos: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Stack the tortillas in 2 stacks of 4 each, wrap each stack in foil and set aside.

3. Combine the cumin, paprika and 1⁄2 teaspoon kosher salt in a small dish. Sprinkle all over the steak.

4. Heat a heavy skillet (preferably well-seasoned cast iron) over medium-high heat. When the skillet is very hot, sear the steak (with no added fat) until well browned, about 2 minutes. Flip the steak, and immediately transfer to the oven. Place the packets of tortillas in the oven at the same time. After 6 minutes, check the steak for doneness either with an instant-read thermometer or by making a small cut with a paring knife. Cook until the internal temperature is 125°F for medium-rare or 130°F for medium. Transfer the steak to a cutting board to rest, and spread a small pat (11⁄2 teaspoons) of butter over the surface. Turn off the oven, but leave the tortillas inside to keep warm while you cook the eggs.

5. Whisk the eggs in a bowl, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter in a medium nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the eggs and cook, stirring gently with a heat-proof rubber spatula to form large curds. When the eggs are soft and fluffy, stir in the cheese and green onions, and remove from the heat.

6. Carve the steak across the grain into thin slices. Pull the tortillas from the oven, and open the packets carefully, avoiding the steam.

Fill each tortilla with scrambled eggs, and then add steak, avocado and ranchero sauce. Garnish with cilantro. Serve immediately, passing any extra sauce at the table.

Cook’s Note: Ranchero sauce is brick-red tomato sauce seasoned with chilies and garlic that is most often associated with huevos rancheros, and it’s a wonderfully versatile and flexible condiment. It can be made up to 1 week ahead, the recipe is easily doubled, and it’s good served warm or cold. Try it spooned onto rice and beans, added to braises, layered onto nachos or served with any type of eggs. If you’re short on time, substitute a favorite store-bought salsa.

ADD PIZZAZZ TO PIZZA NIGHT—TRY BREAKFAST PIZZA For a twist, add eggs to your usual roundup of pizza toppings. Crack a fresh egg onto the other toppings just before the pizza goes into the oven. As the pizza bakes, the egg whites cook through and the yolks remain a bit runny, adding luxurious richness to an otherwise ordinary pizza. Individual pies are especailly suited to breakfast pizza, with one bright-yolked egg in the center.

If you start with ready-made pizza dough, it takes little time, and it can be a great way to use leftovers.

Tried-and-true combinations (in the order to add): • Red sauce, sauteed mushrooms, crumbled sausage, mozzarella and eggs • Mozzarella, cooked bacon, eggs, Parmesan and basil • Provolone, garlicky sauteed kale (or spinach), eggs and Parmesan

• Diced tomatoes, roasted red peppers, ham, mozzarella, scallions and eggs • Ricotta, cooked spinach, roasted garlic, feta, eggs and black olives

spring 2018 real food 27

Shakshuka with Eggs and Feta MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Shakshuka is a vibrant stew of sweet peppers and tomatoes with eggs poached directly on top, and it makes a soulful and filling one-pot supper. This version includes a bit of melted feta for creamy richness, too. Be sure to serve good bread or toast for mopping up the flavorful juices. A salad of mixed greens also makes a refreshing complement.

3 1 2 2 3 1 2 1⁄4 1 4 4

tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided medium yellow onion, finely chopped pinches kosher salt, divided, plus more to taste large bell peppers, preferably one red and one orange or yellow, cored, seeded and cut into 1⁄4-inch thick strips garlic cloves, very thinly sliced tablespoon tomato paste teaspoons sweet or smoked paprika to 1⁄2 teaspoon hot pepper flakes, to taste freshly ground black pepper, to taste (28-ounce) can diced or crushed tomatoes, with their liquid ounces feta, crumbled to 8 eggs (see Cook’s Notes) toast or crusty bread, to serve

1. Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a large skillet with a lid over medium-high heat. Add the onion and a pinch of salt, and sauté, stirring frequently, until softened and golden, about 6 minutes. Add bell peppers and another pinch of salt, and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until the peppers are well collapsed, another 6 minutes or so. Stir in the garlic, tomato paste, paprika, pepper flakes and several grinds of black pepper, and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the tomatoes, and stir to combine. Adjust the heat to a gentle simmer, and cook until the sauce is thickened, about 10 minutes. Taste for seasoning.

2. Set the skillet over medium-low heat. Using the back of a spoon, make little depressions in the surface of the sauce to accommodate as many eggs as you’re cooking. One by one, crack the eggs directly into the indentations. With the tines of a fork, drag some of the egg whites into the surrounding sauce, without breaking the yolks (this helps the whites cook through before the yolks set (see Cook’s Notes). Season each egg with salt and pepper, and scatter the feta over top. Cover the skillet, and simmer very gently until the whites are set and the yolks remain soft, 8 to 10 minutes. If the whites don’t appear to be cooking, spoon some of the sauce over top.

3. Remove the skillet from the heat, and let sit, covered, for 2 to 3 minutes. Use a large serving spoon or spatula to scoop the sauce and eggs onto individual plates.

Drizzle the remaining tablespoon of olive oil over top, and serve hot with toast or crusty bread.

Cook’s Notes: • Figure the number of eggs according to the appetites around your table, counting 1 or 2 eggs per person accordingly. Traditionally, the eggs are cooked until the whites are just set and the yolks left runny. If you prefer a longer-cooked egg, simply break the yolks in Step 2 when directed to drag some of the white through the sauce, and mingle the whole egg with the simmering sauce. This will ensure fully cooked whites and yolks.

• For a meatier version, start by pan-frying 1⁄2 pound of spicy sausage (preferably lamb, casings removed) in the skillet until cooked through. Set aside on paper towels to drain, and proceed with the recipe as directed, leaving the sausage drippings in the skillet. Just before poaching the eggs, stir the cooked sausage into the sauce.

28 real food spring 2018

SHAKSHUKA WITH EGGS AND FETA

spring 2018 real food 29

WHOLE-WHEAT CRÊPES WITH HAM, CHEESE AND ASPARAGUS

30 real food spring 2018

Whole-Wheat Crêpes with Ham, Cheese and Asparagus MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

Crêpes are merely pancakes with a pedigree. Sure, they take a little more time than regular flapjacks, but the supple texture is well worth it. The wafer-thin crêpes are ideal for rolling around a filling, plus they can be cooked, filled and rolled ahead of time, so you only need to dress the salad to get dinner on the table.

For the Crêpe Batter 1 cup all-purpose flour 1⁄2 cup whole-wheat flour, preferably white whole-wheat pinch salt 3 large eggs 13⁄4 cups milk, divided, plus more as needed 2 tablespoons melted butter, cooled 3 to 4 tablespoons butter or vegetable oil, for frying crêpes

For the Filling 11⁄2 pounds asparagus, woody ends removed 2 to 4 tablespoons favorite mustard, such as Dijon or honey mustard 6 ounces grated Comte or Gruyère cheese (about 11⁄2 cups) 1⁄4 pound thinly sliced Black Forest ham 2 tablespoons butter, melted

1. Put the flours and salt in a medium mixing bowl, and whisk to combine. Make a well in the center, and add the eggs and 1⁄3 cup of milk. Whisk to make a smooth, thick paste. If needed, add a few more tablespoons milk, and continuing whisking until entirely lump free. Whisk in the remaining milk and melted butter. Let batter sit for 1 hour (or cover and refrigerate overnight). Just before cooking, whisk the batter and check that it has the consistency of heavy cream. If not, add a bit more milk.

2. Preheat the oven to 400°F and butter a large baking dish.

3. Bring a skillet of salted water to boil, and cook the asparagus until just tender. Drain and arrange on a clean towel to dry.

4. Heat a crêpe pan or nonstick skillet (see Cook’s Notes) over medium-high heat. Brush the bottom with butter or oil, and add enough batter to thinly coat the pan, tilting and rotating the pan so the batter covers the base evenly. Cook until the top is set and bottom is browned, 1 or 2 minutes. Immediately flip the crêpe using a thin metal spatula or fork, and cook until the second side is golden, 1 minute or less. Slide the crêpe onto a plate, and repeat, adding more oil and cooking the remainder of the batter. Stack the crêpes on the plate as you go to prevent them from drying out. You should have 12 crêpes. (If your skillet is small, you may have extra batter; use it to make extra crêpes for another occasion. See Cook’s Notes.)

5. Brush each crêpe with a thin coat of mustard; then sprinkle with cheese and top with ham. Divide the asparagus among the crêpes, cutting the spears if necessary so they don’t extend too far over the edges. Roll each crêpe around the asparagus and place seamside down in the prepared baking dish. Brush the tops with melted butter, and scatter any remaining cheese over top. The dish can be made ahead, covered with plastic and refrigerated for several hours.

6. Bake the crêpes until golden and heated through, about 10 minutes. Serve 2 to 3 crêpes per person.

NUTRITION

Cook’s Notes: • You don’t need a specially designed crêpe pan to make crêpes (although if you have one, use it). Instead, choose a 6- to 8-inch nonstick skillet or well-seasoned cast iron pan. The key is to make the crêpes as thin as possible without having holes and to cook them quickly without scorching. As you add the batter to the hot pan, tilt and swirl the pan so the batter quickly spreads into a very thin layer on the base of the pan. If the batter is too thick to spread thinly, add more milk before making another crêpe. If there are tiny holes, quickly patch these by dribbling on a bit more batter. Once you get the hang of it, you will figure out exactly how much batter you need for your pan; it is usually between 2 to 4 tablespoons per crêpe. Adjust the heat so the crêpes set and brown in 1 to 2 minutes. If they cook too slowly, they become tough, and of course, if they cook too quickly, they burn.

• Stack any leftover crêpes with waxed paper to prevent them from sticking, and refrigerate for up to 3 days or freeze for 2 months. ■

CORNMEAL WAFFLES & BUTTER: PER SERVING: CALORIES 460 (266 from fat); FAT 30g (sat. 17g); CHOL 116mg; SODIUM 721mg; CARB 37g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 11g

FRENCH TOAST: PER SERVING: CALORIES 604 (326 from fat); FAT 38g (sat. 11g); CHOL 223mg; SODIUM 723mg; CARB 52g; FIBER 5g; PROTEIN 16g

STEAK & EGG TACOS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 545 (283 from fat); FAT 32g (sat. 14g); CHOL 377mg; SODIUM 697mg; CARB 27g; FIBER 5g; PROTEIN 39g

SHAKSHUKA: PER SERVING: CALORIES 342 (198 from fat); FAT 22g (sat. 7g); CHOL 212mg; SODIUM 767mg; CARB 23g; FIBER 7g; PROTEIN 15g

WHOLE-WHEAT CRÊPES: PER SERVING: CALORIES 547 (293 from fat); FAT 33g (sat. 19g); CHOL 207mg; SODIUM 870mg; CARB 36g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 27g

spring 2018 real food 31

A Step Up on Dinner Add a ready-made ingredient to your recipe and get a step ahead on dinner— while still keeping it healthy

BY ROBIN ASBELL

MOROCCAN MEATBALL TAGINE OVER COUSCOUS (RECIPE PAGE 37)

32 real food spring 2018

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

spring 2018 real food 33

S

ometimes, we all need just a little help getting a great meal on the table, and a meal based on scratch cooking with one prepared part can save the day. Think of it as a “step up” on dinner. It’s not “cheating” to get a head start,

and you can do it without sacrificing a healthy meal.

Instead of picking up fast food, you can stock up on high-quality time-savers. The frozen food section of the store is a valuable source for convenient ingredients, many of which are indistinguishable from fresh. Pick up frozen meatballs, bread dough and veggies; prepared gnocchi from the pasta aisle; and rotisserie chicken from the deli to shave time off your meal prep and make the recipes featured here. You will still make a lovely, balanced dinner—just more quickly and easily. Eating together is what it’s all about, no matter how you get there.

Lemon Shrimp and Gnocchi in Mascarpone Sauce

Szechuan Beef Stir-Fry

MAKES 4 SERVINGS (PHOTO ON PAGE 2)

You don’t need Chinese takeout when you have a bag of stir-fry vegetables in the freezer. A quick marinade of soy, sherry and cornstarch tenderizes the steak just a bit before it hits the pan.

This is also a great way to stretch a piece of beef to feed the whole family.

Making fresh gnocchi is probably not in your schedule for a weeknight, but these packaged gnocchi cook in three minutes.

All you need is sautéed shrimp and a sprinkle of lemon zest, and with melted mascarpone cheese you have an instant sauce.

Asparagus and parsley give it a fresh spring flavor.

1 pound fresh or thawed frozen shrimp, peeled and deveined 17 ounces packaged gnocchi 1 tablespoon butter 2 small shallots, chopped 1 tablespoon fresh lemon zest 1 clove garlic, minced large pinch plus 1⁄2 teaspoon salt 1 bunch asparagus, bottoms trimmed, cut into 1-inch pieces 4 ounces mascarpone cheese 1⁄2 cup fresh parsley cracked black pepper, to taste 1. If using frozen shrimp, thaw under cool running water in the sink for about 10 minutes. Blot shrimp dry with paper towels.

Reserve.

2. Put on a large pot of water to boil for the gnocchi, and add a large pinch of salt. When boiling, cook the gnocchi for about 3 minutes, or according to package directions.

3. In a large sauté pan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the shallots, lemon zest and garlic and stir until soft and fragrant, about 4 minutes. Add the shrimp and ½ teaspoon salt, raise the heat to medium-high, and stir until the shrimp is no longer pink, about 4 minutes. Add the asparagus and stir until just crisp-tender, about 2 minutes, depending on thickness.

4. Add the gnocchi and stir to heat through, and add the mascarpone, tossing to coat. As soon as the mascarpone is melted and the food is coated with sauce, serve topped with parsley and freshly cracked black pepper.

34 real food spring 2018

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

1⁄2 2 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 2 8

pound steak, flank, skirt or sirloin, thinly sliced tablespoons soy sauce, divided tablespoon rice wine or sherry tablespoon cornstarch tablespoon hoisin sauce teaspoons chili sauce, plus more to taste tablespoon rice vinegar tablespoon canola oil tablespoon fresh ginger, chopped bag frozen stir-fry vegetables medium green onions, diagonally sliced ounces Chinese noodles sesame seeds for garnish, optional

1. Keep the stir-fry vegetables in the freezer until it is time to cook them. Put a pot of water on stove over high heat to boil for the noodles.

2. In a medium bowl, combine the steak, 1 tablespoon soy sauce, rice wine or sherry, and cornstarch, and toss to mix. Let stand at room temperature for up to 30 minutes or refrigerate, covered, until time to cook up to 1 hour ahead of time.

3. In a cup, stir the hoisin sauce, chili sauce, 1 tablespoon soy sauce and rice vinegar, reserve. Cook the noodles and reserve.

4. To cook the stir-fry, heat a wok or large skillet over high heat until hot, about 1 minute. Add canola oil and swirl the pan to coat. Add the ginger and beef and stir constantly, until the beef is just browning but still pink in the middle, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a plate.

5. In the same pan, pour the frozen vegetables and stir over high heat. In 6 to 8 minutes, the vegetables will be thawed and heated through. Add the beef, the reserved hoisin mixture and scallions, and stir over high heat until hot and well mixed.

Serve over noodles. Garnish with sesame seeds, if desired.

SZECHUAN BEEF STIR-FRY

SAUSAGE AND ASIAGO STROMBOLI

Sausage and Asiago Stromboli MAKES 8 SERVINGS

Classic stromboli is often made with sliced deli meats and cheeses piled on a square of pizza dough and rolled up. Here you just thaw a loaf of frozen bread dough in the refrigerator, so you can pat it out and cover with sautéed mushrooms, sausage, Asiago cheese and parsley. Serve slices topped with savory tomato sauce, or save a few slices for lunch—they are just as tasty without sauce.

1 pound frozen bread dough, thawed in the refrigerator (See Cook’s Notes) 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 1 cup chopped onion 4 ounces mushroom, finely chopped 4 ounces mild or hot Italian sausage 13⁄4 cups (5 ounces) shredded Asiago cheese, divided 1⁄2 cup fresh parsley 1 large egg, whisked 2 cups prepared spaghetti sauce, warmed 1. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper and reserve. Let the dough come to room temperature while you prepare the filling.

2. In a large sauté pan, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the onions and mushrooms and stir until they sizzle.

Reduce the heat to medium and cook for about 5 minutes, until the mushrooms have shrunken and the pan is dry. Crumble in the sausage and cook, breaking it into small crumbles with your spatula. Cook until the sausage is no longer pink and has some browned spots, about 4 minutes. Scrape the mixture into a medium bowl and let cool; put it in the refrigerator if you can.

3. On a lightly floured counter, press the dough to make an 8 x 9-inch rectangle. Spread 11⁄2 cups of the Asiago on the dough, leaving the top inch farthest away from you, along the length, bare. Cover the cheese with parsley and cooled sausage mixture. Roll the dough up from the side closest to you, encasing the filling, cinnamon roll style, finishing with the bare edge. Place seam side down on the prepared sheet pan. Let the roll rise for 15 minutes in a warm spot.

4. Whisk the egg in a small bowl and brush the roll with egg, and then sprinkle with the remaining 1⁄4 cup of Asiago cheese.

5. Bake for 25 minutes, until an instant read thermometer inserted in the center of the roll reads 140°F. Slice into 8 pieces, and serve each topped with about 1⁄4 cup of warmed spaghetti sauce.

Cook’s Notes: • Thaw dough in a lightly oiled container, covered, so the top of the dough will not dry out.

• To shape the dough, you can start pressing it into a rectangle as soon as the dough is soft; then let it rise for a few minutes after it is shaped.

• When working with dough, press it out until the dough starts to resist; then let it rest for a few minutes. The dough will relax and be easy to stretch again.

Moroccan Meatball Tagine over Couscous MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

Frozen meatballs are a fantastic “step ahead”—they thaw quickly and slip easily into a flavorful sauce or soup. Here, just build a colorful, veggie-rich tagine spiked with raisins and saffron, and toss in meatballs to heat through. Whole-wheat couscous is the fastest whole grain you can make—just add it to boiling stock and let it stand for five minutes.

1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1⁄8 3 1 1⁄4 1 2 2 1⁄4

pound frozen plain meatballs tablespoon olive oil large yellow onion, chopped garlic cloves, minced cinnamon stick teaspoon turmeric teaspoon cumin teaspoon saffron threads, crumbled cups beef stock (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes in juice cup golden raisins large carrot, chopped cups chopped raw sweet potato cups baby spinach leaves cup chopped fresh cilantro plus additional for garnish

Couscous 11⁄2 cups water or chicken stock 1⁄2 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon olive oil or butter 1⁄2 cup frozen peas 11⁄3 cups (1 7.6-ounce package) whole-wheat couscous 2 medium scallions, chopped 1. Place the meatballs on the counter to thaw slightly while you prepare the rest of the dish.

2. In a large pot, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat and add the onion. Stir, and then reduce heat to medium when the onions start to sizzle. Cook for about 5 minutes, until onion is golden. Add the garlic and stir for 1 minute, and then add the cinnamon stick, turmeric, cumin and crumbled saffron threads. Stir for 1 minute, until the spices are fragrant.

3. Add the stock, tomatoes and juice, raisins, carrot and sweet potato. Raise the heat to high and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and cover. Simmer for 10 minutes.

4. Uncover the pot and add the meatballs. Stir and then simmer for about 10 minutes longer. Stir in the spinach and let it wilt, and then add the cilantro. Serve over couscous with cilantro sprigs.

5. While the meatball tagine is simmering, cook the couscous: In a 2-quart pot, bring water or stock, salt, olive oil or butter, and frozen peas to a boil. As soon as it boils, stir in the couscous and scallions, cover, and remove from heat. Let stand for 5 minutes; then uncover and fluff with a fork.

spring 2018 real food 37

Chicken and Cauliflower in Cilantro Pesto over Yellow Rice MAKES 4 SERVINGS

A deep green, herby pesto is a brilliant way to jazz up some cooked chicken, and it looks stunning over a simple dish of yellow-tinged rice and vegetables.

If you grab a big rotisserie chicken on your way through the store, you can strip the meat when you get it home, or you can buy precooked, chopped chicken breast from the frozen food section.

3 cups cooked chicken, shredded or chopped 1⁄4 cup pumpkin seeds 1 clove garlic, peeled 1 cup fresh cilantro 1 teaspoon fresh lime zest 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice 1⁄4 teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided 3 cups cauliflower florets about 1 inch across (from about 1⁄2 small cauliflower)

Rice 1 tablespoon canola oil 1 small onion, chopped 1 small red bell pepper, seeded and chopped 1 large tomato, chopped 1 cup long grain white rice 1⁄2 teaspoon turmeric 1⁄2 teaspoon cumin 1⁄2 teaspoon salt 1⁄4 teaspoon cayenne 11⁄4 cups chicken stock

NUTRITION

1. Pull the meat from the chicken, and reserve. If using frozen, precooked chicken, measure 3 cups and thaw overnight in the refrigerator. (If you want to use the same night, defrost in microwave according to package instructions.)

2. Prepare the rice: In a 4-quart saucepan, heat the canola oil over mediumhigh heat, and add the onion, red bell pepper and tomato. Stir, cooking until the pan is dry and the vegetables are softened, about 4 minutes. Add the rice, turmeric, cumin, salt and cayenne and stir until the rice is coated with spices. Add the stock and bring to a boil, cover and reduce heat to low. Cook for about 15 minutes, until the liquids are absorbed. Fluff and keep warm.

3. For the pesto, place the pumpkin seeds in a small skillet over medium-high heat. Swirl the pan to move the seeds around until they start to pop and smell toasty. Transfer to a food processor bowl. Add the garlic, cilantro and zest and process to make a paste. Add the lime juice, salt and 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and process until smooth.

4. In a large skillet, heat the remaining tablespoon of olive oil over mediumhigh heat. Add the cauliflower and stir, cooking until some brown spots appear and the cauliflower starts to soften. Add 1 tablespoon of water and keep stirring until the cauliflower is tender and the pan is dry. Add the chicken and stir until heated through. Add the pesto from the processor and stir to coat. Serve over the yellow rice. ■

LEMON SHRIMP & GNOCCHI: PER SERVING: CALORIES 401 (207 from fat); FAT 24g (sat. 15g); CHOL 194mg; SODIUM 815mg; CARB 27g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 22g

38 real food spring 2018

SZECHUAN BEEF STIR-FRY: PER SERVING: CALORIES 422 (65 from fat); FAT 7g (sat. 1g); CHOL 35mg; SODIUM 615mg; CARB 62g; FIBER 6g; PROTEIN 27g

SAUSAGE & ASIAGO STROMBOLI: PER SERVING: CALORIES 330 (134 from fat); FAT 15g (sat. 6g); CHOL 47mg; SODIUM 763mg; CARB 36g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 13g

5 THINGS TO “THAI” WITH A JAR OF PEANUT SAUCE

Thai peanut sauce is great for dipping spring rolls or eggrolls, but you can take that jar of rich, creamy peanut topping beyond dipping for great results in these quick and easy meals: Pizza Spread the peanut sauce on a prepared pizza crust and top with cooked chicken, bell peppers, scallions, mozzarella and more peanut sauce. Bake according to crust instructions.

Salad Open a bag of cabbage or broccoli slaw, and toss with peanut sauce, scallions, water chestnuts, prebaked tofu, a few shakes of soy sauce and a pinch of red pepper flakes.

Noodles Cook spaghetti, toss with peanut sauce, scallions, shredded carrots, snap peas and cooked shrimp.

Crostini Toast rounds of sliced baguette, spread with cream cheese and top with cucumber slices, slivers of red jalapeño and a dollop of peanut sauce.

Bánh Mì Stuff a baguette with sliced ham and lettuce, sliced sweet pickles, and Thai peanut sauce.

DIY PEANUT SAUCE If you want to

make your own peanut sauce, skip the jar and stir up this easy version: In a small saucepan, warm 1 cup coconut milk over medium heat and whisk in 2 teaspoons red curry paste (or more to taste) as it comes to a boil. Whisk in 1⁄2 cup smooth, natural peanut butter, and then 1 tablespoon light brown sugar and 2 tablespoons soy sauce. Lower the heat so the sauce simmers gently. Cook for 1 minute, and then transfer to a serving bowl or serving tub to cool. This will keep, refrigerated, for up to 2 weeks.

MOROCCAN MEATBALL TAGINE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 591 (185 from fat); FAT 21g (sat. 6g); CHOL 90mg; SODIUM 971mg; CARB 72g; FIBER 12g; PROTEIN 30g

CHICKEN & CAULIFLOWER: PER SERVING: CALORIES 577 (228 from fat); FAT 26g (sat. 5g); CHOL 90mg; SODIUM 687mg; CARB 49g; FIBER 5g; PROTEIN 38g

CHICKEN AND CAULIFLOWER IN CILANTRO PESTO OVER YELLOW RICE

Cooking with Kids With fun and easy recipes, kids can master the building blocks of cooking and enjoy the fruits of their labor RECIPES BY AMANDA GRANT

CHOCOLATE KISSES

40 real food spring 2018

G

ive a kid chicken nuggets, and they have one fast-food meal. Teach a kid to cook, and they

can help create fresh, home-cooked meals and learn skills to last a lifetime.

Learning to cook is a bit like learning to read. When you learn to read, you learn the letters first and then start to put the letters together to form words. It is similar when you learn to cook, says Amanda Grant in her book, “Kids in the Kitchen.” You first learn some basic skills that you can later put together to make meals. And it’s not just about making something to eat— kids will be practicing math by counting and measuring, reading the recipes and instructions as age appropriate, and learning about food and where it comes from. Using recipes to suit their ages and abilities, such as those from Grant’s book featured here, can help make learning to cook a positive experience and help grow their self-confidence and independence. —Mary Subialka

3 TO 5 YEARS

BUILDING BLOCKS

MAKES ABOUT 25 SANDWICH COOKIES

Equipment—Kids can help gather: scrap of parchment paper • 2 baking trays • mixing bowl • wooden spoon • oven mitts • small bowl • fork

Chocolate Kisses This is a recipe that involves weighing the ingredients. If you weigh everything before you start cooking, the rest is very easy.

(If you don’t have a kitchen scale, the converted measurements are included.)

200 grams (1 stick plus 5 tablespoons) unsalted butter, softened 100 grams (1⁄2 cup) superfine granulated sugar 1 capful vanilla extract 250 grams (2 cups) self-rising flour 2 tablespoons cocoa powder

Skills: buttering baking trays • introduction to creaming butter and sugar • shaping • mashing

For the raspberry cream 4 ripe raspberries 100 grams (6½ tablespoons) unsalted butter, softened 100 grams (2⁄3 cup) confectioners’ sugar

1. Turn the oven on to 350°F. Take a scrap of parchment paper and use it to rub a little butter over 2 baking trays.

2. Put the soft butter, sugar and vanilla extract in a mixing bowl and mix well with a wooden spoon until it becomes fluffy and paler in color. This helps to beat air into the mixture.

3. Tip the flour and cocoa powder into the bowl and mix well with your hands.

4. Break the mixture into 5 pieces. Now break each piece into 10 pieces, all the same size. Roll each piece into small balls about the size of a small walnut; then flatten a bit. Put onto the baking trays and ask an adult to help you put them in the oven using oven mitts. Bake for 6 to 7 minutes, and then ask an adult to help you take the trays out of the oven. Leave to cool.

5. For the raspberry cream, put the berries into a small bowl, mash with a fork, and then add the butter and confectioners’ sugar and mix with the fork.

6. Spoon a little cream onto a kiss and sandwich with another kiss. Keep going until you have 25 kisses.

spring 2018 real food 41

TASTY BREAD TARTS

3 TO 5 YEARS

Tasty Bread Tarts MAKES 6 SERVINGS

It can be frustrating if you want to cook something but you don’t have the ingredients to do it. These tarts use basic ingredients that you should find in your kitchen like bread, milk and eggs. You can add other fillings like corn and tuna.

6 slices multigrain bread a little unsalted butter 3 free-range eggs and 4 tablespoons milk (or 2 eggs and 6 tablespoons milk) handful fresh mint leaves (or other herbs) 2 handfuls frozen (and defrosted) or fresh peas or sweet corn small handful grated Parmesan

BUILDING BLOCKS Equipment—Kids can help gather: scrap of parchment paper • muffin tin • round cutter as wide as the slices of bread • cutting board • oven mitts • table knife • small jug • spoon • fork • scissors Skills: cutting shapes with cutters • sharing toppings between the muffin cases • cracking eggs

1. Turn the oven on to 375°F. Take the round cutter and press it into each slice of bread on a chopping board to cut out 6 circles.

2. Using a scrap of parchment paper, rub some butter inside 6 of the holes in the muffin tin. Press each bread circle into the buttered muffin tin holes. Ask an adult to help you put the muffin tin into the oven using oven mitts. Bake for 5 minutes. Ask an adult to help you take the muffin tin out of the oven using oven mitts and leave to cool.

3. Now you need to crack open the eggs: Hold an egg in one hand and carefully use a table knife to crack the egg in the middle. Put your thumbs into the crack and pull the eggshell apart. Let the egg fall into the small jug. Repeat with the other eggs. Mix the eggs with a fork to break them up. Add the milk and mix the milk and eggs together with a fork again.

4. Using scissors, snip the mint into small pieces and put a little into each tart. Now put a few peas into each tart, too—try to share them out evenly so that the tarts have roughly the same amount.

5. Slowly pour the egg mixture that’s in the jug into the tarts over the peas and mint—try to stop pouring just before you reach the top, as the tarts will rise in the oven.

6. Sprinkle a little grated Parmesan over the tarts. Ask an adult to help you put the muffin tin back in the oven using oven mitts. Cook for 12 minutes or until they have puffed up and the egg is cooked.

42 real food spring 2018

5 TO 7 YEARS

Fruit and Seed Bread Loaf

MAKES 2 SMALL LOAVES

This is easy—you mix the wet ingredients together, and then pour them into the dry ingredients. This is half like a cake and half like bread, but you don’t need yeast like you do for bread. a little unsalted butter 1¼ cups plain yogurt (not a thick-set yogurt) 2 free-range eggs 3 tablespoons sunflower oil capful vanilla extract 2⁄3 cup dried fruit, such as dried cranberries, raisins or chopped apricots or a mixture of all 3 1 cup chopped nuts, seeds or desiccated coconut or a mixture of all 3 2 cups self-rising flour ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons superfine granulated sugar 1 teaspoon baking powder 1. Turn the oven on to 350°F. Using a scrap of parchment paper, rub a little butter inside the loaf tins. Now using scissors, cut a piece of parchment paper to fit along the bottom of the tins and up the ends. Fit it inside the tins—this will make it really easy to pull the bread out after it’s baked.

2. Spoon the plain yogurt into a liquid measuring cup and stop when it reaches the 1¼-cup mark on the cup.

3. Crack open the eggs: Hold an egg in one hand and carefully use a table knife to crack the egg in the middle.

Put your thumbs into the crack and pull the eggshell apart. Let the egg fall into a bowl. Repeat with the other egg. Fish out any eggshell with a spoon. Mix with a fork.

Add the eggs, sunflower oil and vanilla to the yogurt and mix with a fork.

4. Put all measured dry ingredients—dried fruit, nuts, flour and sugar—into a mixing bowl. Add the baking powder and mix together. Pour the yogurt mixture into the mixing bowl, too.

5. Use the wooden spoon to mix everything together.

Spoon half the mixture into one loaf tin and the other half into the other tin. Ask an adult to help you put the loaf tins in the oven using oven mitts. Bake for about 30 minutes, or until golden and risen. Ask an adult to help you test if the loaves are cooked by poking the middle with a skewer or toothpick—it should come out clean. Leave the loaves to cool down until they’re cool enough to touch. Pull the ends of the parchment paper up at each end of the loaf tins and pull the bread out.

FRUIT AND SEED BREAD LOAF

BUILDING BLOCKS Equipment—Kids can help gather: parchment paper • 2 1-pound (8½ x 4½ inch) loaf pans • scissors • table knife • small bowl • spoon • fork • liquid measuring cup • mixing bowl • wooden spoon • oven mitts • skewer or toothpick Skills: greasing • pouring • weighing • measuring • mixing • dividing • using oven

spring 2018 real food 43

7 TO 11 YEARS

Tacos with Soybeans and Coriander MAKES 4 SERVINGS

The mild chili powder in this recipe gives the beans a slight chili flavor, but you can always leave it out if you really don’t like chili—they will still taste good. This simple meal is as fun to make as it is to eat because there are lots of things to assemble, and so lots of things to try!

1 (14.5-ounce) can chopped tomatoes 2 (15-ounce) cans soybeans in water (or cannellini beans) 2 spring onions/scallions 1 garlic clove 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 teaspoon ground coriander 1 teaspoon mild chili powder 1 teaspoon granulated sugar handful fresh cilantro leaves plus a little extra for serving 8 to 12 taco shells 2 ripe avocados 2⁄3 cup sour cream grated Cheddar cheese pieces of lime

NUTRITION

1. Turn the oven on to 350°F. Use a can opener to open the cans of tomatoes and beans. The first TACOS WITH SOYBEANS AND CORIANDER time you do this you will need an adult to show you how to use your can opener, as they are all slightly different. Drain the beans in a colander.

BUILDING BLOCKS 2. Using the claw-cutting technique (see Building Blocks, opposite page), cut the ends off the spring Equipment—Kids can help gather: can opener • colander • small paring onions with a small paring knife and throw away. knife • cutting board • garlic press • small saucepan • wooden spoon • Cut the onions into thin slices. baking tray • oven mitts • spoon 3. Peel the garlic clove and crush it with a garlic Skills: opening cans • cutting • crushing garlic • using stovetop and oven crusher.

4. Put the oil and onions into a small saucepan over low heat on the stove. Heat gently, stirring every now and then with a wooden spoon, until they are soft. This will take about 5 minutes. Add the crushed garlic, ground coriander and chili powder and cook for another minute.

5. Add the tomatoes, drained beans, sugar and cilantro leaves. Turn the heat up, and when the tomatoes are bubbling, lower the heat and simmer gently for 10 minutes.

6. Put the tacos on a baking tray and, using oven mitts, put them in the oven for 3 minutes to heat up. Scoop the stones out of the avocados with a teaspoon and peel away the skins. Using the claw-cutting technique, cut the avocados into slices. Put the beans, sour cream, cheese, extra cilantro, avocado and lime in bowls. Let everyone make their own tacos.

CHOCOLATE KISSES: PER SERVING: CALORIES 154 (87 from fat); FAT 10g (sat. 6g); CHOL 26mg; SODIUM 121mg; CARB 16g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 1g

44 real food spring 2018

BREAD TARTS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 129 (51 from fat); FAT 6g (sat. 2g); CHOL 100mg; SODIUM 179mg; CARB 11g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 8g

BREAD LOAF: PER SERVING: CALORIES 160 (59 from fat); FAT 7g (sat. 1g); CHOL 20mg; SODIUM 191mg; CARB 22g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 4g

TACOS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 650 (367 from fat); FAT 43g (sat. 11g); CHOL 30mg; SODIUM 629mg; CARB 43g; FIBER 18g; PROTEIN 33g

PASTA & CHEESE SAUCE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 646 (255 from fat); FAT 29g (sat. 16g); CHOL 77mg; SODIUM 563mg; CARB 71g; FIBER 5g; PROTEIN 26g

7 TO 11 YEARS

Swirly Pasta with Leek, Broccoli and Cheese Sauce MAKES 4 SERVINGS

It’s useful to know how to make a white sauce like this one because it is used in many dishes like lasagna, macaroni and cheese, and cauliflower cheese.

10 1 3 1⁄3 2 1 2 8

ounces tender stems broccoli leek, trimmed and washed tablespoons unsalted butter cup all-purpose flour cups whole milk teaspoon English (powdered) mustard large handfuls grated Cheddar cheese (about 1½ cups) ounces pasta spirals

1. Turn the oven on to 375°F. Use the claw-cutting technique to cut the broccoli into chunks with a small paring knife. (See Building Blocks, below right.) Using the same technique, slice the leek into thin slices.

2. Put the leek and butter into a saucepan and heat gently over low heat. Cook for about 10 minutes, or until the leek has softened. Stir with a wooden spoon. Add the flour.

3. Stir and cook for a few minutes until you have a thick paste.

Now take a balloon whisk and, whisking all the time, slowly pour in the milk. Keep whisking until you have a smooth sauce and cook gently for a few minutes. Add the mustard and most of the cheese (keep some for the top) to the sauce, stir and take off the heat.

4. Cook the pasta following the instructions in the Cook’s Note.

Add the broccoli to the pasta pan 2 minutes before the pasta has finished cooking. When it is cooked, put a colander in the sink and ask an adult to pour the pasta and broccoli into the colander for you.

5. Tip the pasta and broccoli from the colander into an ovenproof dish. Pour the sauce over the top and sprinkle the last bit of cheese over it. Using oven mitts, put the dish in the oven. Cook for 25 to 30 minutes until the topping is golden and the sauce is bubbling.

Cook’s Note: For cooking pasta, you will need the biggest pan that you can find so that the pasta has plenty of room to move around in the water as it cooks. This will help to make sure that it cooks evenly. Ideally you need 4 cups of water for every 3½ ounces of pasta. Turn the burner to medium heat and place the pan of water on it. Heat until it comes to a boil. Put the pasta into a pitcher and carefully add to the water, keeping your hands away from the hot water. Using a long-handled spoon, gently swirl the pasta around in the pan to help stop it from sticking together. Bring the water back to a boil and cook following the package instructions. Use a fork to take a piece of pasta from the pan, let cool slightly and then test to see if it is ready; when you bite into it, it should be cooked but still have a little “bite”—this is known as “al dente” in Italy. ■

SWIRLY PASTA WITH LEEK, BROCCOLI AND CHEESE SAUCE

BUILDING BLOCKS Equipment—Kids can help gather: small paring knife • cutting board • saucepan • wooden spoon • balloon whisk • colander • ovenproof dish • oven mitts Skills: chopping • making white sauce • cooking pasta • using oven • claw-cutting technique Claw-cutting Technique: Make your fingers into a “claw” shape, tucking your thumb inside your fingers. Use this claw to hold the food. Hold a small paring knife in your other hand and cut the food. As the knife moves along the food, pull the claw away from the knife.

RECIPES AND PHOTOS FROM “KIDS IN THE KITCHEN” BY AMANDA GRANT ©2017 REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM RYLAND PETERS & SMALL. PHOTOGRAPHY BY SUSAN BELL.

spring 2018 real food 45

Dinner Uncorked Elevate the everyday meal with a splash of wine

A

splash of wine adds flavor, depth, body and richness to dishes, so don’t be afraid to experiment just as you would with other ingredients you store in your cupboard. “Wine is as natural an addition to my cooking as olive oil,”

says Fiona Beckett in her new book, “Wine Lover’s Kitchen.” As a wine writer, she says she always has open bottles in the kitchen. “I add a quick splash to the pan to make an instant sauce for a steak; pour a glass into the pan when I cook a roast; use the best part of a bottle to cook a slow, flavorsome braise; or sweeten it to make a fabulous fruit dessert.

There are so many different ways to use it,” says Beckett. “It’s one of the easiest and most effective ways to give your food that extra lift and really wow your family and friends!” A slow-cooked ragu, vegetable stew and even dessert can get a new twist by adding wine, so take a look at some of the recipes featured in her book to give your dinner that lift. —Mary Subialka

RECIPES BY FIONA BECKETT

SLOW-COOKED RAGU

Slow-Cooked Ragu MAKES 4 SERVINGS

I wouldn’t presume to claim this was an authentic Bolognese as everyone’s Bolognese is different. The key is the long, slow cooking, which transports this family favorite into a luxury pasta dish. It may seem a lot of liquid to begin with, but the cooking time will cause much of that liquid to evaporate.

2 3 1 1 1 1 2

tablespoons olive oil tablespoons butter medium onion, finely chopped medium carrot, finely chopped celery stalk/stick, finely chopped garlic clove, finely chopped ounces Parma ham/prosciutto or other air-dried ham 14 ounces lean minced/ground meat (a combination of beef or veal and pork works best) 3⁄4 cup white wine 101⁄2 ounces good quality artisanal passata/ strained tomatoes 1 scant cup chicken stock (preferably homemade) 1 bay leaf sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 3 tablespoons double/heavy cream buttered tagliatelle or fettuccine, to serve (about 12 ounces) freshly grated Parmesan, to serve 1. In a large heavy-based pan, heat the oil and add the butter. Add the finely chopped onion, carrot and celery and give it a good stir. Put a lid on the pan and cook over a low heat for about 10 minutes until soft. Add the garlic and cook for another couple of minutes. Add the Parma ham/prosciutto and minced/ground meat in two batches, turning it with a spoon until it is slightly colored. Pour in the white wine and simmer until reduced by about one-third.

Add the passata/strained tomato, chicken stock and bay leaf. Season with salt and black pepper and leave uncovered on a very low heat to cook for about 2 to 21⁄2 hours, stirring occasionally.

2. After this time the sauce should be creamy but shouldn’t be too thick—add a bit of extra stock if it needs thinning down. Check the seasoning and stir in the cream. Serve with buttered tagliatelle or fettuccine and freshly grated Parmesan.

What to Drink You could drink the same white wine you’ve used to make this dish, but I actually prefer a light red like a Rosso di Montalcino.

Sea Bass en Papillote with Spring Vegetables and Fresh Herbs MAKES 2 SERVINGS

Baking en papillote is one of the easiest and healthiest ways of cooking fish. The fish and vegetables are laid on a large piece of foil, flavored with a splash of wine, a pat of butter and some fresh herbs, and then tightly sealed so that they steam in their own juices. Light and delicious.

9 ounces mixed vegetables, such as asparagus, broccoli, zucchini, sugar snap peas, green/French beans or baby carrots light olive oil, for greasing 2 thick sea bass fillets (about 41⁄2 ounces each) 2 teaspoons mixed freshly chopped herbs, such as chives, chervil and dill 11⁄2 tablespoons butter, cut into slices sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 4 tablespoons dry white wine, such as Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc 1. Preheat the oven to 425°F. 2. Chop the vegetables into large, even-sized pieces. Lay out two pieces of 11 x 11-inch square foil or parchment paper one on top of the other and grease the top layer lightly with a few drops of olive oil. Lay one sea bass fillet on it and surround it with half the vegetables. Sprinkle with half the herbs, dot with half the butter and season with salt and pepper. Pull up the sides of the foil or parchment paper and add 2 tablespoons wine to the parcel. Carefully pull the sides together around the fish and vegetables, leaving a space around them, but sealing the parcel tightly at the top so the juices can’t escape. Repeat with the remaining ingredients and two more pieces of foil/parchment paper to make a second parcel.

3. Put the two parcels on a baking sheet and bake in the preheated oven for 12 minutes. Remove the parcels from the oven and open them carefully. Transfer the fish and vegetables to two warm plates, pour over the juices and serve immediately.

What to Drink A classic French wine, such as Chablis or Sancerre would respect the delicate flavors of this dish. Or try a Spanish Albariño.

spring 2018 real food 47

Vignarole (Spring Vegetable Stew) MAKES 4 SERVINGS

This typically Roman dish is a recipe to make in spring when the new season’s vegetables hit the shops and markets. As a simple dish, it relies on the best ingredients so the exact cooking time will vary depending on how fresh they are. (If you’re using late season broad/fava beans, blanch and skin them first and add them at the last minute with the herbs.) freshly squeezed juice of 1⁄2 lemon 6 to 8 baby artichokes 5 tablespoons olive oil plus extra for drizzling over the stew 1⁄2 cup diced pancetta (you can leave this out if you want the dish to be vegetarian) 1 medium sweet white onion, chopped 1 bunch of spring onions/scallions, trimmed, larger ones halved and cut into 2 to 3 lengths

1⁄3 3⁄4 1 11⁄3 4 2 1

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste cup dry white Italian wine cup light vegetable stock generous cup fresh peas cups fresh or frozen broad/fava beans to 5 outer Cos (Romaine) lettuce leaves heaped tablespoons freshly chopped flat leaf parsley heaped tablespoon freshly torn mint leaves

1. Fill a medium to large bowl with cold water and add the lemon juice to stop the artichokes discoloring. Trim off the stalks and the outer leaves, quarter and cut away the tough tips of the artichoke, and remove the hairy choke, popping the quarters into the water as you finish them.

2. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and fry the pancetta (if using) until lightly browned. Add remaining 3 tablespoons of oil, the chopped onion, spring onions/scallions and prepared artichoke hearts. Stir, season with salt and pepper, cover and cook over a low heat for about 10 to 15 minutes until they start to soften. Add the white wine and vegetable stock and bring to a boil.

3. Tip in the fresh peas and broad/fava beans and simmer for another 5 to 10 minutes until the vegetables have softened but still have some bite. Remove the central stem from the lettuce leaves, and then shred and add the leaves to the pan and cook for another 2 to 3 minutes until they have wilted down. Stir in the parsley and mint and check the seasoning. Drizzle over some extra olive oil before serving.

What to Drink A crisp fresh white wine like a Frascati or a Falanghina.

Chicken with Chardonnay and Chanterelles MAKES 2 SERVINGS

This dish is perfect for a romantic dinner for two; therefore it’s worth using a really good wine to make it. You need only a glass for cooking the chicken, so the rest of the bottle can be enjoyed with the meal.

1⁄3 cup dried chanterelles 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 2 boneless chicken breasts (about 12 ounces) 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon butter 4 shallots, thinly sliced a good pinch of Spanish sweet smoked paprika (pimenton) 2⁄3 cup top-quality New World Chardonnay or good white Burgundy 3 tablespoons double/heavy cream 2 coils (about 31⁄2 ounces) dried pappardelle all’uovo or other wide-ribboned egg pasta freshly grated nutmeg 1 tablespoon freshly chopped parsley 1. Soak the chanterelles. Drain the chanterelles, reserve the soaking liquid and strain it through a fine sieve/strainer.

2. Preheat the oven to 400°F. 3. Put the flour in a shallow dish and season it with salt and pepper. Dip the chicken breasts into the flour and coat both sides. Heat a medium frying pan/skillet over moderate heat and add 1 tablespoon olive oil and 2 teaspoons butter. When the butter is foaming, add the chicken breasts skinside down. Fry for 2½ to 3 minutes until the skin is brown and crisp. Turn the chicken over and lightly brown the other side for 2½ to 3 minutes. Transfer the chicken to an ovenproof dish and cook in the preheated oven for 15 to 20 minutes until cooked.

4. Meanwhile, discard the fat from the frying pan/skillet and wipe the pan with paper towels. Heat the remaining oil and 1 tablespoon butter in the pan, add the shallots and fry gently for 5 to 6 minutes or until soft. Stir in the paprika, and then increase the heat to high and add the wine. When the wine has reduced by half, add 1⁄3 cup of the reserved mushroom water. Reduce the heat and let simmer gently for 10 minutes. Strain the sauce through a fine sieve/strainer into a heatproof bowl. Return the strained sauce to the pan, add the chanterelles, cover and simmer for 10 minutes.

5. Remove the pan from the heat, stir in the cream, and salt and pepper to taste. Return the pan to the burner and heat very gently, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens.

6. To cook the pasta, bring a large saucepan of lightly salted water to a boil, add the pasta and cook until al dente. Drain well, add the remaining butter and season with pepper and freshly grated nutmeg.

7. Cut each chicken breast into five or six thick diagonal slices. Divide the pasta between two warm plates, put the slices of chicken on top, and then spoon over the mushroom and cream sauce. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve immediately.

What to Drink The rest of the bottle you used in the recipe.

spring 2018 real food 49

Chocolate and Cabernet Pots

TIPS FOR COOKING WITH WINE

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

Combining chocolate with a strong red wine like Cabernet Sauvignon might sound an unlikely idea, but if you think about the wine’s red berry flavors, it makes sense. It also adds an intriguing edge to this dessert that I bet none of your guests will be able to identify. The ideal Cabernet to use is one that is ripe and fruity but not too oaky.

3⁄4 cup fruity Cabernet Sauvignon, preferably from California, Chile or Australia 31⁄4 tablespoons granulated sugar 7 ounces dark/bittersweet chocolate (70 percent cocoa solids) 11⁄3 cups light cream 1 egg a pinch of ground cinnamon 2 teaspoons unsweetened cocoa powder, sifted, to serve 1. Put the wine and sugar in a saucepan and heat gently until the sugar has dissolved. Increase the heat very slightly and simmer gently for about 20 to 25 minutes until the wine has reduced by two-thirds to about 4 tablespoons.

2. Meanwhile, break the chocolate into squares, and put them in a blender.

Blitz briefly to break them into small pieces.

3. Put the cream in a saucepan and heat until almost boiling. Pour the hot cream over the chocolate in the blender, and then add the hot, sweetened wine. Leave for a few seconds so the chocolate melts. Whizz briefly until the mixture is smooth. Add the egg and cinnamon and whizz again briefly to mix.

4. Pour the mixture into 6 or 8 small (4-ounce) pots, ramekins or espresso cups, and then chill in the refrigerator for 3 to 4 hours. Remove the chocolate pots from the refrigerator 20 minutes before serving.

5. To serve, sprinkle a thin layer of cocoa powder over the top of each pot.

The wine you use needs to be drinkable … clean and fresh and, obviously, not corked.

It shouldn’t taste like vinegar or be so old it’s lost all its fruit. … Wine that’s been left open for four to five days is probably OK. Wine that’s been sitting in your cupboard for four to five months generally isn’t.

Don’t use wines labeled cooking wines, which tend to be poor quality and not that much of a saving over an inexpensive bottle of wine.

If you cook with wine, is there any alcohol left in the dish? There is a widespread misconception that it all cooks out, but unless you’re cooking the dish for 3 hours or more there will be a residue depending on how much wine you’ve used. This is worth bearing in mind if you’re cooking for kids or non-drinkers.

Cook’s Note: This pudding contains raw egg. Uncooked or partially cooked eggs should not be served to the very old, frail, young children, pregnant women or those with compromised immune systems.

Editor’s Note: If using raw egg is a concern for diners outside these categories, substitute a pasteurized egg.

NUTRITION

What to Drink A small glass of vintage character or late-bottled vintage port or a sweet red dessert wine would work well with these chocolate pots. ■

SLOW-COOKED RAGU: PER SERVING: CALORIES 803 (369 from fat); FAT 42g (sat. 18g); CHOL 183mg; SODIUM 926mg; CARB 69g; FIBER 5g; PROTEIN 36g

50 real food spring 2018

SEA BASS EN PAPILLOTE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 239 (105 from fat); FAT 12g (sat. 6g); CHOL 125mg; SODIUM 181mg; CARB 7g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 26g

VIGNAROLE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 407 (258 from fat); FAT 29g (sat. 7g); CHOL 13mg; SODIUM 196mg; CARB 30g; FIBER 11g; PROTEIN 10g

RECIPES AND PHOTOS FROM “WINE LOVER’S KITCHEN” BY FIONA BECKETT REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION OF RYLAND PETERS & SMALL ©2017.

PHOTOS BY MOWIE KAY.

CHICKEN & CHANTERELLES: PER SERVING: CALORIES 755 (336 from fat); FAT 38g (sat. 16g); CHOL 199mg; SODIUM 419mg; CARB 53g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 48g

CHOCOLATE & CABERNET POTS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 267 (158 from fat); FAT 18g (sat. 10g); CHOL 44mg; SODIUM 44mg; CARB 22g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 5g

CHOCOLATE AND CABERNET POTS

spring 2018 real food 51

The Tie That Binds

“W

hen we ask the question, ‘What is American food?’ we might as well be asking, ‘What is America?’ Because the answer is every bit as complex—much more complex than a melting pot, a salad or a fish soup,” writes editor Joe Yonan in the recently released “America The Great Cookbook.”

“American food is native food, and it is immigrant food. It is food cooked in a spirit of openness, experimentation and reinvention, but often with a deep attachment to tradition,” says Yonan. He found that we are many multi-layered dishes “each one more delicious, more storied, and more satisfying than the last.” In each recipe, Yonan captures the essence of what it means to be American through the hands and words of some of our favorite chefs.

In this excerpt from the cookbook, we get a glimpse of what three of the featured chefs—Buddy Valastro, Rick Bayless and Carla Hall—cook for those they love, whether at home or in their restaurants.

Food is the tie that binds us together, and is often at the core of special moments, celebrations and memories. —Mary Subialka

52 real food spring 2018

ALL PHOTOS LOTTIE HEDLEY ILLUSTRATIONS SUBJOB - FOTOLIA.COM

What do some of our favorite celebrated chefs make for those they love?

Buddy’s Chocolate Mousse Strawberry Shortcake MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

Cake 1 packet of your favorite chocolate cake mix for an 8-inch round cake 2 pints strawberries 1⁄2 cup chocolate shavings, store-bought (or grate a chocolate bar) Chocolate Ganache 1⁄2 pound semisweet chocolate chips 1⁄2 cup heavy cream 21⁄4 teaspoons sugar Chocolate Mousse 2 cups heavy cream 3⁄4 cup sugar 1½ tablespoons cocoa powder

BUDDY VALASTRO

Owner and Chef of Carlo’s Bakery Hoboken, New Jersey I chose to make this cake for two reasons. Firstly, it’s near and dear to my heart because it was one of the first cakes that my dad ever taught me how to make.

Secondly, I was 12 years old when I learned how to make this cake, which means it’s a recipe you can make easily at home. I want people to feel as proud making it as I did when I was a kid. I remember Dad saying “Don’t be cheap with the strawberries inside,” and “Make sure that you cover all the strawberries with the ganache.”

This is a delicious, decadent, I-need-a-piece-right-now kinda cake. You’re gonna love it.

1. For the cake, prepare and bake according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Cool completely. Using a serrated knife, trim the top (crown) of the cake so it is flat, then cut the cake horizontally into two equal-sized rounds. Cover and refrigerate until ready to assemble.

2. For the chocolate ganache, place the chocolate in a heatproof bowl.

In a small saucepan, combine the cream and sugar and heat over medium heat, stirring, just until steam starts to form. Do not allow to boil. Immediately pour the cream mixture over the chocolate. Let sit for 1 minute, and then stir from the center to create the ganache. It should be smooth and shiny. If there are chunks of chocolate, transfer the mixture to a microwave-safe bowl and microwave on high in short (10-second) bursts, stirring after each burst, until smooth. Set the ganache aside at room temperature.

3. For the chocolate mousse, place the cream, sugar and cocoa in a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and beat on medium speed until the mixture forms firm, stiff peaks. Be sure not to beat too long, or it will turn to chocolate butter. Refrigerate, covered, until ready to use.

4. To assemble, place the first layer of cake on a cake plate or board.

Fill a pastry bag fitted with a star tip with the chocolate mousse. Pipe a swirl of mousse about 1 inch tall onto the cake, covering the entire surface but being sure not to exceed the diameter of the cake.

5. Set aside 4 of the larger strawberries, all a similar size. Remove the stems from the remaining strawberries and cut them into ¼-inch thick slices. Place the slices on top of the mousse. Drizzle the chocolate ganache onto the strawberries, just enough to stripe all of the berries.

6. Pipe a dollop of mousse in the center of the cake on top of the strawberries and ganache. Place the second layer of cake on top and press down lightly. Pipe a swirl of mousse on top of the cake to cover it, and then pipe a rosette of mousse in the center.

7. Stem 3 of the reserved strawberries, cut them in half, and place them around the mousse rosette. Dip the remaining strawberry in ganache and place on top of the rosette, then drizzle more ganache lightly over the top. Garnish with the chocolate shavings. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

spring 2018 real food 53

Enchiladas Verdes Roasted Tomatillo Enchiladas MAKES 4 SERVINGS

1 4 1 1 2 1½ ¼ 2¾

8

RICK BAYLESS

Owner and Chef of Frontera Grill Chicago, Illinois What I love most about the restaurant world is the opportunity to share with our guests. We’re taking care of them with food and flavors, and hopefully their eyes light up. To me, that is the most rewarding thing in the world. Someone might come in and say, “My boyfriend proposed to me here and now we’ve been married 10 years,” or, “I was with my mother here the week before she died and we had the most amazing celebration of her life.” We get a chance to be part of all of that. I can’t think of any other profession that would be as rewarding.

pound tomatillos (about 8), husked and rinsed cloves garlic, unpeeled or 2 serrano chilies small white onion, sliced ½ inch thick salt tablespoons vegetable oil, olive oil, bacon grease, or freshly rendered pork lard, plus extra oil for tortillas cups chicken or vegetable stock or water cup chopped fresh cilantro or parsley, or 1 large epazote sprig, chopped cups coarsely shredded cooked chicken, pork or beef or 3 cups shredded Mexican melting cheese (such as Chihuahua, quesadilla or asadero) or Monterey Jack, brick, or mild Cheddar or 1½ cups goat or dryish ricotta cheese corn tortillas

1. Preheat the broiler. On a rimmed baking sheet, spread out the tomatillos, garlic, serrano chilies, and most of the onion, reserving a few slices for garnish. Slide the baking sheet as close up as possible under the broiler. After 4 to 5 minutes, when everything is blotchy-black and softening, turn the vegetables and roast the other side until everything is cooked through. They should be soft, with an attractive bit of rustic char. Transfer the baking sheet to the stove top to cool down a little.

2. When cool enough to handle, slip the skins off the garlic and pull the stems off the chilies. Transfer the vegetables to a blender with any juice left on the baking sheet, add a scant teaspoon salt, and blend everything to a coarse puree.

3. In a large frying pan over medium-high heat, warm the oil until hot and add the tomatillo puree. Let it reduce and concentrate, stirring frequently, until it’s thicker than spaghetti sauce, about 4 minutes. Stir in the stock and cilantro.

Season with salt to taste, turn the heat down to medium-low, and let simmer while you prepare the tortillas.

4. Measure out your choice of filling. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Spray or brush oil on one side of the tortillas, stack them up, slip them into a plastic bag, fold the bag over, and microwave the stack at 100 percent for 1 minute. Let the tortillas stand for 1 minute (to uniformly absorb the heat).

5. If using a meat filling, stir a little roasted tomatillo sauce into the meat to moisten it. Lay out the tortillas on the countertop, cover them with a portion of the meat or cheese, roll them up, and fit them into a 9-by-13-inch baking dish.

Spoon the hot tomatillo sauce over the tortillas (covering the whole of each tortilla avoids dry ends), slide the dish into the oven, and bake just until heated through—about 4 minutes. Longer in the oven means mushy enchiladas.

6. To serve, use a spatula to transfer the enchiladas to dinner plates. Garnish with Mexican crema or sour cream, cheese of your choice (see Cook’s Notes), the reserved white onion, and cilantro.

Cook’s Notes: Serving options: Top with dollops of Mexican crema, sour cream, crème fraîche, or Greek yogurt thinned with a little milk or a few tablespoons grated Mexican queso añejo or other garnishing cheese such as Romano or Parmesan—or a handful of shredded Mexican melting cheese (such as Chihuahua, quesadilla, or asadero) or Monterey Jack, brick, or mild Cheddar. You can sprinkle it over the enchiladas before they go into the oven. Also try fresh cilantro leaves.

This recipe is a good use of rotisserie chicken or leftover roasted or braised meats.

54 real food spring 2018

Mac ’n’ Cheese MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

6 1½ ½ 2 1½ 6 2 1½ 1½ 2 1

CARLA HALL

Owner and Chef of Carla Hall’s Southern Kitchen Brooklyn, New York Carla Hall’s Southern Kitchen is my love letter to Nashville.

I remember one guy who came in, a businessman, and he was almost in tears because the macaroni reminded him

ounces clarified butter cups minced sweet yellow onion cup all-purpose flour teaspoons sweet paprika tablespoons dry mustard cups whole milk large eggs cups grated sharp yellow Cheddar cheese cups grated extra sharp white Cheddar cheese teaspoons salt pound dried mini macaroni

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. 2. In a saucepan, heat the clarified butter over medium heat for 2 minutes. Add the onion and cook until soft and translucent, about 5 minutes.

3. Add the flour, whisk to combine, and continue to cook until the flour flavor is cooked out, about 6 minutes. Add the paprika and dry mustard and stir well into the flour mixture. Cook, stirring continuously, for 1 minute more.

4. Pour 1 cup of the milk into a small bowl. Stirring continuously, add 1 tablespoon of the flour mixture to the milk, to temper the milk and flour. Return the temper mix to the saucepan over medium heat. Add the remaining milk, whisking continuously until all is incorporated and smooth. Cook, stirring, until the mixture thickens slightly, 5 to 8 minutes.

5. Beat the eggs in a small bowl. Stirring continuously, slowly add a small amount of the milk mixture to temper the eggs. Return the tempered egg mixture to the saucepan over medium heat, whisking continuously to prevent curdling or lumps. As soon as all the egg mixture is whisked into the hot milk mixture, remove the pan from the heat.

6. Quickly mix together 1 cup of each of the Cheddar cheeses, add to the saucepan, and stir in. Season with the salt. Add the dry macaroni to the sauce and mix well.

7. Transfer to a 9-by-11-inch baking dish and spread evenly. Mix together the remaining Cheddar cheeses and sprinkle over the top.

Bake until bubbling and golden, about 30 minutes, then serve. ■

of the dish he had as a child. Nothing’s better than that— it’s the greatest compliment that anybody can give me.

I have a chicken joint selling fried chicken and sides, and I don’t apologize for that. My grandmothers were so prideful in making this food for us, and that’s what I want to pass on to other people.

EXCERPT AND PHOTOS FROM “AMERICA THE GREAT COOKBOOK” EDITED BY JOE YONAN ©2017 REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION OF WELDON OWEN. PHOTOS BY LOTTIE HEDLEY. THE PUBLISHER IS A SUPPORTER OF THE NO KID HUNGRY CAMPAIGN AND PURCHASES OF THE BOOK WILL HELP NO KID HUNGRY CONNECT KIDS WITH MEALS.

spring 2018 real food 55

pairings

Zippy Sips Uncork a refreshing choice with Sauvignon Blanc

BY MARY SUBIALKA

D

o you ever notice hints of grapefruit in your wine? What about freshly mowed grass? You might think those tasting notes on the wine label sound like made-up poetic verbiage akin to clothing catalog descriptions that hope to make a pair of socks sound exotic, but they really do give you a sense of the bottle’s contents. In the case of Sauvignon Blanc, the wine can have more of those fruity or grassy elements depending on where it is grown, but it always has a crisp acidic zip that makes it an especially good, food-friendly refresher.

Most Sauvignon Blanc grapes are fermented in stainless steel tanks rather than aged in oak to optimize freshness and fruit flavors. In notable wines such as Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé from the Loire Valley of France, you may find herbaceous or gooseberry flavors. New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc can offer up passion fruit and grapefruit with just the right amount of that grassy quality. Warmer climes, such as California, tend to bring out the lemony citrus or grapefruit quality. (You may also see Sauvignon Blanc from The Golden State labeled “Fumé Blanc.”)

The vibrant flavors of Sauvignon Blanc pair well with seafood such as oysters, clams or flaky white fish, especially when they’re prepared with citrus or garlic-based sauces. For dishes with creamy or buttery flavors, a balance of lemon or capers keeps the wine from tasting sharp or to prevent the food from seeming too fatty or oily. Sauvignon Blanc is also a classic partner with goat’s milk cheese and is a good match with chicken, pork and vegetarian dishes such as asparagus quiche. The wine complements foods with relatively high acidity such as tomatoes and vinegar-based dressing, so uncork a bottle with salads. Don’t be afraid to try it with Thai, Japanese, Vietnamese, Chinese, Mexican and Southwestern cuisine, either. Whether you prefer the fruity or grassy notes, Sauvignon Blanc offers a welcome partner at the dinner table. ■

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

56 real food spring 2018

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