Egg Cookery

While seemingly simple, omelet and poached egg-making skills deserve attention and respect

A chef’s toque, the tall and pleated hat, is a symbol of rank and expertise in the restaurant kitchen. Each pleat, according to kitchen lore, represents a different type of egg cookery that the chef has mastered. While it may seem simple, egg cooking requires a special type of attention and versatility. The egg is central to recipes and classic dishes across cultures and cuisines. And like most simple techniques, the more we dig, the more subtle complications we find. Here we tackle two egg dishes that can prove frustrating—the omelet and poached eggs—and offer tips for success.

Poached Eggs

MAKES 1 SERVING

A poached egg is an elegant and purist egg cooking technique. Use it for breakfast or just as easily on top of a salad or a sautéed steak. The technique is not complicated and only uses two ingredients—fresh eggs and hot water. The rest is a bit of patience.

1. Fill a nonstick pan with 1 to 2 inches of water. On high heat, bring water to a simmer, then reduce heat to low to keep the gentlest bubble of a simmer.

2. Crack 4 eggs and carefully add them to the hot water, putting each egg in a different spot in the pan and leaving space between each egg.

3. Cook on very low heat for 2 to 3 minutes covered with a lid.

4. Use a fish spatula or thin metal spatula and slide under eggs if they stick to the bottom of pan.

5. Cook eggs for another 2 to 3 minutes, for a total of roughly 4 to 5 minutes for an egg with a runny yolk, or 6 to 7 minutes for a fully cooked and solid poached egg.

POACHED EGG TIPS:

• To avoid little strings of egg white on poached eggs, use the freshest eggs possible. Fresh eggs can last well up to a month, but as they age, the egg whites become watery and thin.

• Use just enough water to cover the eggs as they cook—1 or 2 inches is plenty. Too much water makes it harder to find eggs in the poaching water.

• Do not let the water boil. A gentle heat, barely a simmer, helps keep the egg in a nice compact shape.

• To serve poached eggs for large groups, transfer the poached eggs from hot poaching water to a bowl of ice water. Store the ice water bowl (and eggs) in the refrigerator for up to 4 hours. Then warm them in hot water for 1 minute before serving.

Classic American Omelet

MAKES 1 SERVING

Perfect for breakfast or dinner, the omelet is the standard for egg cookery technique. Use a good nonstick pan and rubber spatula to make the classic folded omelet.

3 eggs

1 tablespoon butter

pinch of salt

pinch ground pepper

½ cup omelet filling

Omelet Filling Options

shredded cheese

chopped spinach and cheese

ham and cheese

bacon and diced potato

sautéed mushrooms

sautéed pepper and onions

1. In a medium sized bowl, using a fork, whisk eggs until all whites are fully incorporated and the mixture is smooth and creamy.

2. Heat a non-stick medium sized (8-inch) pan on medium heat. Add butter and melt until it is frothy but not yet brown.

3. Pour in eggs. Gently shake and tilt the pan to distribute eggs around the pan.

4. Cook the eggs to form a skin on the bottom of the pan for roughly 1 minute. Next, using a silicon spatula or wooden spoon, pull the eggs from the side of the pan and pull toward the center. This will leave an empty space in the pan where you pulled the eggs. Tilt the pan and pour raw egg mixture into that empty space. Repeat this process in different areas around the edge of the pan 2 to 3 times. Each time pull cooked eggs along the bottom of the pan toward the center, and swirl uncooked eggs from the top to fill in the space. Repeat until the eggs have set enough that there are no longer any liquid eggs on top. The bottom of the omelet will be nearly golden brown and the top surface will still be a bit wet and shiny, but not liquid and runny.

5. Sprinkle a pinch of salt and pepper, and add optional omelet filling across half the omelet.

6. Next tilt the pan and use the spatula to fold the omelet in half over the filling and lower onto a plate. Serve immediately.

OMELET TIPS:

• Besides the classic fillings listed here, an omelet is a great place to be creative or even use up leftovers. Cooked broccoli from last night’s dinner is perfect with some cheese melted in an omelet. Cooked potatoes, shrimp, herbs piling up in the garden, pico de gallo, some steak or lonely cold cuts could all easily find a delicious spot in your omelet as well.

• I find mixing eggs with a fork works well for small quantities. If mixing 12 or more eggs, a whisk works better.

• Having trouble with a runny omelet? Don’t panic. Just turn off the heat and put a lid on the pan. The residual heat in the pan and in the cooked omelet will tighten up the runny eggs in a few minutes. Open the pan and serve without fear.

BY JASON ROSS

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN

FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS