Spring Spears

Celebrate the season with gloriously green asparagus prepared five ways

If there is one vegetable that sings of spring, it’s asparagus. Once the conditions are right, asparagus spears pop up from the ground almost overnight, full of energy and life. We are lucky that asparagus from warmer climes is available most of the year, but spring is when domestic asparagus is in season and its journey to us is shorter and sweeter.

Asparagus is effortlessly beautiful, and its long and slender shape lends itself to many classic presentations. It’s also incredibly easy to work with, requiring very little time to prepare or cook. It can take on a French accent if you peel the stems, poach it and serve it with hollandaise. But it can also top a pizza or join in your favorite pasta dish. In recent years, roasting and grilling have become go-to methods for cooking asparagus. Both give the vegetable ahint of char and caramelization and keep the spears firm. Celebrate spring and dig into a few fun asparagus dishes.

Blanched Asparagus and Three Dipping Sauces

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Choices, choices. Here you have three appealing sauces to choose from or you can make them all. The hollandaise is a classic made from egg yolks and warm butter—it’s just made easier with the help of a blender. The herby, garlicky chimichurri has a little spice and a tangy vinegar kick. Enjoy a creamy puree of roasted peppers and nuts in the romesco, a Spanish sauce that makes everything it touches better.

Make your sauces before blanching the asparagus since that only takes a few minutes. Hollandaise is best eaten the same day, while the other two can be refrigerated, covered, for up to 3 days. If preferred, you can simply pile the asparagus on platters and drizzle with sauces.

2 pounds asparagus

1. To blanch asparagus, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Set up two large bowls of ice water. Trim the tough bottoms from the asparagus, and if desired, peel the stems starting 1 inch below the tips. Drop the asparagus into boiling water for 1 minute, then take out with tongs and drop in the ice water to stop the cooking. When completely cold, transfer to a colander, then pat dry before serving.

Cook’s Note: Each dip is enough for one 2-pound bunch of asparagus. If you want to serve multiple dips, adjust amount of asparagus accordingly.

Hollandaise

MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

6 large pasteurized egg yolks, room temperature

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 tablespoon fresh dill

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 dashes hot sauce

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, melted

1. Place egg yolks, lemon juice, dill, salt and hot sauce into the blender and secure the lid. Turn the machine on at low speed, and then increase to high. Blend for about 30 seconds. Remove the plug from the lid of the blender and slowly drizzle the melted butter through the opening. The sauce should thicken and look like mayonnaise. Blend for a few more seconds. Scrape the warm sauce into a medium bowl or individual bowls for dipping.

Chimichurri

MAKES ABOUT 3/4 CUP

1 medium shallot, minced

4 cloves garlic, chopped

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1/2 cup cilantro, finely chopped

1/2 cup parsley, finely chopped

2 tablespoons fresh oregano, chopped

1/4 cup red wine vinegar

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

1. Mix the shallot, garlic, salt, red pepper flakes, cilantro, parsley and oregano in a medium bowl. Stir in the red wine vinegar and olive oil and let stand for about 15 minutes. Stir well before serving.

Cook’s Note: If desired, you can also make this in a food processor. Place the shallot, chopped garlic, salt, red pepper flakes, cilantro, parsley and oregano in a food processor bowl and pulse until minced. Then add the oil and vinegar and pulse to mix—but don’t puree.

Romesco

MAKES ABOUT 13/4 CUPS

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

1 cup cubed Italian bread (about 1 slice)

1/2 cup slivered almonds

3 medium roasted red peppers

1 clove garlic, chopped

2 teaspoons paprika

1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup sherry vinegar

1. Pour the olive oil in a medium skillet and place it over medium heat. When hot, add the bread cubes and turn every few minutes as the bread turns golden, about 2 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the bread cubes to a blender container.

2. Add the almonds to the hot oil and stir until they turn golden brown, about 2 minutes. Transfer the almonds to the blender container and let the oil cool in the pan before pouring into the blender container. Add the roasted peppers, garlic, paprika, red pepper flakes, salt and sherry vinegar, secure the lid, and hold it closed with a folded kitchen towel as you blend until smooth.

ASPARAGUS AND HAM QUICHE

Creamy Asparagus Soup with Tarragon

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

This soup may be the dish that convinces even a skeptic to love asparagus. The creamy, smooth soup is pale green and has a hint of tanginess from the sour cream. The tender tips float on top, showing off their delicate buds. Thick and flavorful, all this soup needs is a chunk of crusty bread to make a fabulous meal.

2 pounds asparagus

2 tablespoons butter

1 large onion

2 tablespoons white rice

3 cups vegetable stock

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 cups packed baby spinach, chopped

2 cups sour cream

2 tablespoons fresh tarragon, plus more for garnish

freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1. Set up a steamer for the asparagus tips. Trim the hard bottoms from the asparagus. Cut the tips from the asparagus and reserve. Chop the stems in ½-inch pieces and reserve separately.

2. In a soup pot, melt the butter over medium heat and sauté the onion until tender and clear. Add chopped asparagus stems (not tips), rice, stock and salt. Simmer for 15 minutes, until rice is very soft. Stir in the spinach and cover for 1 minute, just to wilt.

3. Steam the asparagus tips over simmering water for about 2 minutes. Reserve.

4. Transfer the hot soup to a blender or food processor and secure the lid. Place a folded towel over the top of the container and be careful of the hot liquids as you puree. When the mixture is smooth, add the sour cream and process to mix. Return to pan and add tarragon and pepper, and taste for seasoning.

5. Serve each bowl with asparagus tips and fresh tarragon sprigs on top.

Asparagus and Ham Quiche

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

This classic quiche can fit into any meal of your day from breakfast or brunch right through dinner. You have the option to make the pastry from scratch or use purchased refrigerated pie crust or frozen deep dish crust to save time.

For the Crust

1 cup unbleached flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, cold

1 teaspoon vinegar

4 tablespoons ice water, approximately flour, for counter

1/2 bunch asparagus (about 8 average spears), trimmed

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 small yellow onion, chopped

6 ounces cooked ham, chopped

6 large eggs, whisked 1/2 cup heavy cream

1 cup shredded Jarlsberg or other Swiss cheese (about 3 ounces), divided

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon dried dill

freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1. To Make the Crust: In a large bowl, whisk the flour and salt. Using the large holes on a grater, grate the butter into the mix, tossing every few strokes to coat the bits of butter with flour. In a measuring cup, whisk the vinegar and ice water. Stir gently into the flour mixture and use your hands to mix and form a ball. If needed, add a little bit more water. Form into a disk and roll out on a counter sprinkled with a little flour. Put in pie pan and flute the edges. Cover with foil and chill until ready to use. If using a prepared refrigerated crust, fit into pie pan and flute the edges, and chill until the filling is ready to go in.

2. Trim the tough bases from the asparagus and discard, then cut the tips into 3-inch pieces. Chop the remaining stems into thin pieces and reserve. In a large skillet, melt the butter over medium heat, then add the onion. Lower heat and cook slowly. When onions are very soft and getting golden, about 10 minutes, stir in the chopped stems (not tips) and stir until bright green. Remove from heat to cool and stir in the chopped ham.

3. Preheat oven to 400°F. Fill the chilled pie crust with dried beans or pie weights and bake for 10 minutes. Remove from oven and lower the heat to 375°F.

4. In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, cream, ½ cup of the shredded cheese, salt, dill and pepper. Stir in the cooled onion mixture, then spread in the pie crust. Top with remaining ½ cup cheese, then arrange asparagus tips in a spoke design with the tips in the center. Bake for about 50 minutes.

5. When the top is puffed and golden, cool slightly on a rack and serve warm. Quiche can be refrigerated for up to 4 days, tightly covered. To reheat, place the quiche in a 300°F oven for about 20 minutes, or microwave individual slices for 1 to 2 minutes on high.

Cook’s Note: A purchased refrigerated crust may brown more quickly, so check it halfway through the baking time and cover with foil if it is browning too quickly.

Asparagus Pesto and Brie Pizza

MAKES 2 14-INCH PIZZAS, ABOUT 8 SERVINGS

Asparagus is a perfect vegetable for topping a pizza because it cooks quickly and looks beautiful. In this preparation, you’ll use those flavorful stems as the base for a creamy, basil-laced puree that serves as the sauce for the pizza. That way you are sure to have asparagus flavor in every bite with a lush melt of brie over it all. You have the option to use prebaked crusts and skip mixing and shaping your own.

For the Crust

2 cups unbleached flour

2 cups white whole-wheat flour, or regular whole-wheat flour

2 teaspoons quick yeast

1 teaspoon salt

11/2 cups hot water

2 teaspoons sugar or honey

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

For the Pesto and Topping

1 bunch asparagus (about 16 average spears), divided

2 cloves garlic, peeled

1 cup fresh basil leaf

1/2 cup Parmesan cheese

1/2 cup pine nuts

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

8 ounces brie

1 cup grape tomatoes, halved

1. For the Crust: In a stand mixer or large bowl, mix the unbleached and whole-wheat flours, yeast and salt. Warm the water to 110°F to 115°F and add the sugar or honey and oil to the water. Mix the water into the flour mixture, kneading until the dough comes away from the bowl. It should be soft and pliable but not overly sticky. If it is sticking to your fingers, add a little more flour. Knead for a few minutes, then place the dough in an oiled bowl, cover and place near but not on the stove. Let rise for at least 1 hour.

2. While the dough rises, preheat the oven to 450°F. For pre-baked crusts, preheat to 400°F.

3. For the Pesto and Topping: Cut 2-inch long sections off the tips of the asparagus and reserve. Slice the coarse bases from the stems, leaving you with the central sections of the stalks. Set up to steam the stalks. Steam for about 3 minutes, until tender. Transfer the stalks to a food processor bowl and let cool to room temperature. Add the garlic, basil, Parmesan, pine nuts and salt and process to a smooth puree, scraping down as needed. Add the olive oil and process until very smooth. Reserve.

4. Remove the rind from the brie and cut the cheese in small pieces; it will be soft and may not divide neatly. Reserve.

5. To make pizza, lightly oil two 14-inch wide sheet pans, preferably without a rim. Divide the dough in 2 pieces and form each into a disk. Place one disk on the pan and press it out to a circle that reaches the edges of the pan. Dollop the asparagus puree over the crusts and gently smooth out to cover the pizza. Top with brie, then arrange the halved tomatoes and asparagus tips over the cheese, pressing down lightly. Bake the pizzas for 15 to 20 minutes, reversing the pans at the halfway point for even baking. Slide the pizza onto a cutting board and cut in 8 slices per pizza. Serve hot.

Cook’s Note: If you prefer, you can use two 14-inch prebaked pizza crusts to save time. Top and bake for 12 to 15 minutes.

ASPARAGUS PESTO AND BRIE PIZZA

SEARED SCALLOPS IN CREAM OVER ROASTED ASPARAGUS

Seared Scallops in Cream Over Roasted Asparagus

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

If you are eating a low-carb diet, this dish will make you happy. Instead of the usual pasta or noodles under creamy sauce, you’ll put down a bed of roasted asparagus. The scallops cook quickly, and the creamy sauce is just decadent enough to make you feel like you are having a special meal.

1 bunch (about 16 average spears) asparagus

1 small red bell pepper, slivered

drizzle plus 1 tablespoon olive oil, divided

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup white wine

1 tablespoon fresh lemon zest

1 pound sea scallops, trimmed

2 tablespoons unbleached flour

1/2 teaspoon paprika

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1/2 cup minced shallots

1/2 cup cream

2 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Trim the tough bases from the asparagus and discard, and place the spears on a sheet pan. Add the pepper slivers, drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Toss to coat and roast for 10 to 15 minutes until browned and slightly shriveled. Keep warm until the scallops are ready.

2. In a cup, whisk the wine and zest and reserve. Pat the scallops dry with paper towels. Mix the flour and paprika in a medium bowl and dip the scallops in the flour mixture, then place on a plate. Have another plate ready to hold the seared scallops.

3. Place a large cast iron or stainless steel skillet over medium high heat and let it heat for about 1 minute until it is hot. Add the 1 tablespoon olive oil and half of the butter and swirl to coat the pan. Place the scallops in the pan and sear 2 to 3 minutes undisturbed (depending on size), until the edges look browned and start to crack. Turn over the scallops, reduce the heat to medium and cook for an additional 2 to 3 minutes, until firm when pressed with a fingertip. Transfer to a plate and cover loosely with a pot lid to keep warm.

4. To the same pan, add the remaining ½ tablespoon butter and shallots and stir, scraping up any browned bits. Reduce the heat to low and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until the shallots are softened. Add the wine mixture and increase the heat to bring to a boil, stir and cook until the pan is nearly dry. Add the cream and stir, boiling until thickened. Stir in the parsley and remove pan from the heat. Serve the asparagus with the scallops and sauce on top.

BY ROBIN ASBELL

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN

FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS