Lunds & Byerlys REAL FOOD Spring 2020

Lunds & Byerlys

COMPLIMENTARY

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SPRING 2020

Go with the Grain Fresh and healthy tastes for spring

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FREE

FLEXITARIAN MEALS: Veg-centric, meat and seafood SAVORING SICILY: A fusion of cultures SPRING BRUNCH: Seasonal flavors and comforting fare

Face of a Top Minnesota Dermatologist Look Good, Feel Great with B e a u t i f u l S k i n .™ Dr.Crutchfieldhasbeen recognized by his peers as a “Top Doctor” annually, for the past 17 years.

“At Crutchfield Dermatology, I see every patient personally. We specialize in medical dermatology such as acne, psoriasis, eczema, vitiligo and ethnic skin-of-color concerns. We are also a nationally recognized leader in cosmetic dermatology including Botox, fillers, and laser treatments. I want people to look great for their age, not diff erent. Less is more.

Most importantly, I perform all the cosmetic treatments, personally.”

Charles E. CrutchfieldIII,MD’s countless honors include the Mayo Clinic’s Karis Humanitarian Award and being named one of “100 Most Influential Health Care Leaders” by Minnesota Physician Magazine.

Whether for medical or aesthetic concerns, if you or a loved one deserves the highest quality skin care from a leading dermatologist, AES

Crutchfield Dermatology is the right call.

THET I C

L OF APPROVA L SEA

CRU TCHFIELD DERMATOLO GY

CRUTCHFIELD DERMATOLOGY Experience counts. Quality matters.

Team Dermatologist for the Minnesota Twins, Vikings, Timberwolves and Wild Mayo Clinic Medical School Graduate • U of M Dermatology Trained Top Doctor Minneapolis St. Paul Magazine | Best Doctors for Women Minnesota Monthly Magazine

1185 Town Centre Drive, Suite 101, Eagan | 651.209.3600 | www.CrutchfieldDermatology.com

Those who love to cook make more than food in the kitchen. They make the most of every moment together—sharing stories, creating delicious flavors and simply enjoying the company of close friends. For more than 80 years, Le Creuset has been a part of these special times, and a colorful companion to all who savor food—and life—to the fullest. To learn more about Le Creuset’s classic French quality, and the joys of cooking with premium enameled cast iron, visit www.lecreuset.com.

contents

Features

real food spring 2020

20 Spring Brunch Fresh flavors of the season and comforting fare come together in a festive menu

BY MOLLY STEVENS

30 Go with the Grain Boost your options and nutrition with a variety of healthy whole-grain dishes

BY ROBIN ASBELL

40 Savoring Sicily A fusion of cultures come together in the cuisine of Sicily, Italy

RECIPES BY URSULA FERRIGNO

46 Meals in the Middle Enjoy vegetarian, meat or seafood meals with the flexitarian diet RECIPES COMPILED BY JULIA CHARLES

52 Michael Symon His tasty food-fix prescription

BY TARA Q. THOMAS

Departments 4 Bites Sweet and savory pancakes RECIPES BY LOUISE PICKFORD

6 Kitchen Skills Tofu tips and recipes

BY JASON ROSS

8 Contributors 17 Ingredient Culinary oils: An essential element of cooking

BY EMILY HEEGAARD

18 Healthy Habits

Keto and paleo diets: Is either for you?

BY LIANNA MATT MCLERNON

56 Pairings Brunch-friendly fruit-and-wine cocktail

BY MARY SUBIALKA

2 real food fall spring 2017 2015

ASPARAGUS-ARUGULA SALAD WITH SUNFLOWER SEEDS AND CITRUS VINAIGRETTE (RECIPE PAGE 25)

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Our Cover

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Farro Bowl with Spring Vegetables and Mint Pesto (page 39) Photograph by Terry Brennan Food styling by Lara Miklasevics

PUBLISHER TAMMY GALVIN SENIOR EDITOR CUSTOM PUBLISHING CLAIRE NOACK CONTENT DIRECTOR MARY SUBIALKA ASSOCIATE EDITORS KATIE BALLALATAK AND LIANNA MATT McLERNON EDITORIAL INTERNS EMILY HEEGAARD AND MAGGIE SELNER SENIOR ART DIRECTOR JAMIE BANKSTON PRODUCTION PROJECT MANAGER AMY GOLDBERG ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE KELSEY FISH

VOLUME 16, NUMBER 1 Real Food magazine is published quarterly by Greenspring Media, LLC, 9401 James Ave. S, Suite 152, Bloomington, MN 55431, 612.371.5800, Fax 612.371.5801. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Real Food is exclusively operated and owned by Greenspring Media, LLC. Printed in the USA. realfoodmag.com

The pages between the covers of this magazine (except for any inserted material) are printed on paper made from wood fiber that was procured from forests that are sustainably managed to remain healthy, productive and biologically diverse.

spring fall 2020 2009 real food 3

bites

Seeded Baked Pancake with Berries and Cocoa Sauce MAKES 4 SERVINGS, RECIPE BY LOUISE PICKFORD

Based on the Dutch pancake that is baked in the oven, this is a super easy and delicious way to make a pancake to serve straight from the pan. This one is packed full of nutritious seeds and served with berries and a healthy-ish cocoa sauce for a truly power-packed breakfast or dessert. or the Pancake Batter F generous ⅓ cup all-purpose flour 3 tablespoons coconut flour 1 teaspoon baking powder pinch of salt ⅔ cup milk 3 eggs, beaten 4 tablespoons runny honey 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 5 tablespoons mixed seeds, such as flax seeds, chia seeds, sunflower seeds, poppy seeds 2 tablespoons coconut oil For the Cocoa Sauce 4 tablespoons raw cocoa powder 2½ tablespoons runny honey 2½ tablespoons coconut oil, melted

Beyond Breakfast Rethink your expectations of pancakes with these sweet and savory creations

T

here’s nothing quite like a fresh stack of buttermilk pancakes with syrup, but those are just the tip of the iceberg. While the first pancake dates back to the Stone Age according to National Geographic’s 2018 Future of Food series, it has taken us a while to learn just how versatile they can be. There are hundreds of unique twists on both sweet and savory pancakes that add a dose of creativity to your dining table. Whether you’re fixing a weekend brunch, a weekday dinner or an appetizer, there’s something for everyone. From protein-rich recipes to fuel a workout or nutritious recipes that still satisfy any sweet tooth, to the tasty and impressive-looking plates for date night, pancakes have it all.

In the book “Modern Pancakes: Over 60 Contemporary Recipes, from Protein Pancakes and Healthy Grains to Waffles and Dirty Food Indulgences,” publisher Ryland Peters & Small makes it easy for pancake lovers to add new creations to their culinary queue. Out of 140 recipes, two that caught our attention are the Seeded Baked Pancake with Berries and Cocoa Sauce—a dazzling dish that you can serve right from the pan—and Beet Pancakes with Goat’s Cheese, Onion Relish and Walnuts, which is a colorful meal with bold flavor. —Maggie Selner

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For Serving ¾ cup Greek yogurt 1¾ ounces dried berries, such as goji, acai, cranberries, etc.

3½ ounces mixed fresh berries such as blueberries, raspberries, redcurrants, etc. confectioners’ sugar 1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. 2. To make the pancakes, sift the all-purpose flour, coconut flour, baking powder and salt into a mixing bowl. Combine the milk, eggs, honey and vanilla in a separate bowl and beat into the flours to make a smooth batter. Fold in the mixed seeds.

3. Heat the coconut oil in a 9-inch ovenproof skillet until melted. Pour in the pancake batter and transfer to the oven. Bake in the preheated oven for 15 minutes until the pancake is puffed up and golden.

4. Meanwhile, make the cocoa sauce. Place all the ingredients with 4 tablespoons water in a saucepan and heat gently, stirring, until smooth. Keep warm.

5. As soon as the pancake is cooked, remove it from the oven. Spoon the yogurt into the center and top with the dried and fresh berries. Drizzle over the cocoa sauce and serve dusted with confectioners’ sugar.

Beet Pancakes with Goat’s Cheese, Onion Relish and Walnuts MAKES 16 PANCAKES, RECIPE BY LOUISE PICKFORD

The beet adds attractive color to these savory pancakes, as well as a hint of earthy flavor. A little rye flour is used in the batter here too for its deep, strong taste, but it can be easily replaced with all-purpose flour. or the Onion Relish F 2 tablespoons olive oil 3 onions, thinly sliced sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 2 tablespoons soft brown sugar For the Pancake Batter 2 eggs scant 1 cup whole milk ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour 3 tablespoons rye flour pinch of salt 2 ounces cooked beet, finely chopped 1 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for frying For the Filling 10½ ounces frozen spinach, thawed 10½ ounces soft goat’s cheese 2 tablespoons freshly chopped basil ⅓ cup chopped walnuts 6 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese sea salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste arugula, fresh basil leaves and Parmesan shavings, to serve 1. Start by making the onion relish. Heat the olive oil in a saucepan over a low-medium heat. Add the onions and a little salt and pepper and cook for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until they are really soft and golden. Add the vinegar and sugar and cook for a further 5 to 10 minutes until jammy in consistency. Allow to cool.

2. To make the pancakes, place the eggs, half of the milk, the flours, salt and chopped beet in a food processor and blend until the beet is puréed and the mixture is smooth. Add the remaining milk and the oil and blend again. Transfer to a pitcher and allow to rest for 20 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, make the filling. Squeeze out all the excess water from the thawed spinach and chop finely. Place in a bowl and beat in the goat’s cheese, basil, walnuts and grated Parmesan. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

4. Lightly stir the pancake mixture once. Heat a skillet over a medium heat, brush with oil and swirl in about ¼ cup of the pancake mixture, making sure it covers the base. Cook over a medium-low heat for about 1½ minutes until the base is golden. Flip the pancake

over and cook for a further 1 minute until dotted brown. Remove the pancake from the pan as soon as it is ready and keep warm while you cook the remaining batter in the same way.

5. When you are ready to serve, spoon the goat’s cheese mixture down the center of each pancake. Top with a few arugula leaves, fresh basil leaves and a spoonful of the onion relish. Roll up and enjoy. Serve the pancakes with extra relish and shavings of Parmesan cheese. 

RECIPES AND PHOTOS FROM “MODERN PANCAKES” © 2019 REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION OF RYLAND PETERS & SMALL.

spring 2020 real food 5

kitchen skills

Give Tofu a Try

CREAMY TOFU DRESSING

Tips for working with two of the most popular types of tofu

BY JASON ROSS

N

o food divides a room quite like tofu. Some people eat tofu solely as a meat substitute, some say they tried it and don’t like it, some won’t even give it a try, and some, like me, think of tofu as a unique ingredient with its own attributes and flavors. Tofu is made from soybeans that are ground into a liquid, or “milk,” and then mixed with a coagulant so it can be formed into curds and pressed into blocks. Just-made tofu can taste grassy and almost herby like green vegetables such as string beans or parsley. However, most tofu has been tamed and this flavor muted for a less intense vegetal flavor and more consistent product. This makes it more easily used for all types of applications, from stir-fry to stew, from raw to grilled.

Here are a couple ideas to get you started using two tofu products in different ways. Trust me—you will soon realize how amazing and versatile tofu can be.

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

CURRY FRIED TOFU STIR-FRY

The most common tofu products available can be used in countless recipes.

BLOCK: Use when a curd-like, crumbly or even meaty texture is important or when you want to keep a square shape. It comes in soft (the most fragile) and extra firm (tighter and more compact). It is in plastic containers, stored in water. To use, discard the water and drain the tofu. Store unused tofu in fresh water. A versatile star-of-theshow in stir-fries, stews and when grilled.

SILKEN: This more delicate tofu also comes in soft to firm. It has no curd, but does have a fine texture, high moisture content and is sold in airtight, shelf stable containers, with no extra water added. To use, simply remove from packaging. Use silken when a velvety texture is important and shapes need not be cut perfectly. (Silken tofu is hard to handle without breaking, so be gentle.) It does well floating in soups and stews where it can hold its shape while still keeping a fine texture without curds.

Store any unused product in fresh water, covered and refrigerated for up to 1 week.

It is best used within 3 days of opening.

Creamy Tofu Dressing or Dip MAKES ABOUT 6 TO 8 SERVINGS (2 CUPS)

Use soft silken tofu to make a creamy dressing that packs in flavor—and challenge the idea that tofu is bland and hard to work with. Serve it with a hearty green salad, such as a kale mix or spinach, or as a dip for raw vegetables. lace ½ (of a 16-ounce) block soft silken tofu, P 1 tablespoon miso paste (optional), 1 teaspoon lemon juice, 2 tablespoons water, 1 teaspoon rice wine vinegar, 1 clove garlic, ½ tablespoon Dijon mustard, dash of favorite hot sauce like Sriracha or Tabasco, 1 teaspoon salt and few grinds black pepper in a blender or food processor, and process until smooth. Use a rubber spatula to scrape sides and make sure all garlic is fully pureed. Add 1½ cups vegetable or canola oil and blend until fully incorporated.

Pour dressing into bowl and stir in ¼ cup sliced green onion and 1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds. Store in sealed container for up to 1 week in fridge.

Curry Fried Tofu Stir-Fry MAKES 4 SERVINGS

This includes a pre-frying step to add chewy texture and golden-brown color to the tofu. A touch of curry lightly spices the tofu and a cornstarch slurry builds a sauce.

For the Fried Tofu 1 pound extra-firm tofu 1 tablespoon cornstarch 1 tablespoon flour 1 teaspoon salt ½ tablespoon curry powder 2 cups vegetable or canola oil For the Sauce 1 teaspoon soy sauce 2 teaspoons oyster sauce 1 teaspoon sesame oil 2 tablespoons water 1 teaspoon corn starch

For the Stir-Fry ½ onion, cut into ¼-inch slices 1 clove garlic, minced 1 red pepper, cut into ¼-inch slices 1 bok choy 2 tablespoons vegetable or canola oil (Use strained oil from fried tofu) 1 pound crisp fried tofu (recipe above) 1 batch sauce (recipe at left) cooked rice, for serving

1. For the Fried Tofu: Drain the tofu and cut into 1-inch cubes. In a small bowl use whisk to combine the dry ingredients: cornstarch, flour, salt and curry powder. Place cubed tofu in this mix and toss to coat.

2. Heat oil in a wok or medium skillet on medium-high. Check the oil temperature using a thermometer and fry the tofu in 350°F oil for 3 to 5 minutes until crispy and browned. Fry in batches if pan is not large enough to accommodate all the tofu in one batch. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the tofu to a plate lined with paper towels until ready to stir-fry. Allow oil to cool and strain to use for other frying; use 2 tablespoons of this oil for stir-frying the recipe.

3. For the sauce, simply mix ingredients together using a spoon and set aside until ready to stir-fry.

4. To make the stir-fry, cut bok choy stems into 1-inch bite-sized slices and leaves into larger 2- to 3-inch pieces. Rinse separately under water in a colander and shake off excess moisture, storing stalks and greens separately.

5. Heat reserved 2 tablespoons oil in wok or skillet on high heat. Add onions, garlic and peppers, and toss with oil using a long spoon. Cook for 30 to 60 seconds. Add bok choy stems and cook for another 1 minute. Finish with bok choy leaves and toss with stir-fry to wilt the leaves.

6. Before adding the sauce, stir the sauce to mix starch from the bottom into the liquid. Pour sauce into center of wok, stirring, while it boils for 1 to 2 minutes. Finish the stir-fry with a cornstarch slurry sauce. The cornstarch in the sauce will lightly thicken the sauce and add a glossy shine (see Cook’s Note).

7. Add tofu and toss to coat and rewarm. Serve immediately with bowls of rice.

Cook’s Note: Cornstarch mixed with liquid, usually just water, is called a slurry, and used to thicken sauces. It is one of the easier thickeners to make and use— just 1 part cornstarch to 2 parts cold water. Make sure to stir before using. The starch sinks to the bottom and separates almost immediately. The slurry has to come to a boil in your recipe to thicken, but only for 1 to 2 minutes. Make sure to keep stirring as you bring it to a boil to avoid lumps.  NUTRITION

TOFU TYPES

CREAMY TOFU DRESSING OR DIP: PER SERVING: CALORIES 443; FAT 48g (sat. 8g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 380mg; CARB 2g; FIBER 0g; ADDED SUGARS 0g; PROTEIN 3g

CURRY FRIED TOFU STIR-FRY: PER SERVING: CALORIES 308; FAT 24g (sat. 4g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 879mg; CARB 14g; FIBER 4g; ADDED SUGARS 0g; PROTEIN 15g

spring 2020 real food 7

contributors

Molly Stevens is a cooking

instructor, writer and recipe developer.

Her cookbooks include “All About Dinner” as well as the James Beard and IACP cookbook award winners “All About Braising” and “All About Roasting.”

She has been named Cooking Teacher of the Year by both Bon Appétit and IACP. Stevens’ recipes and articles have appeared regularly in a number of national publications. She lives in Vermont and travels the country to teach, cook and eat. Find out more about her writing and teaching schedule at mollystevenscooks.com.

Lara Miklasevics began her

food career on the other side of the camera, cooking at the renowned New French Café in Minneapolis.

Today her work as a stylist is in demand at corporations including Heinz, Target and General Mills, as well as with many magazines. She prides herself on using her experience as a chef to make food as appealing on the page as it is on the plate.

Ursula Ferrigno trained at

the Auguste Escoffier School of the Culinary Arts and has taught at leading cookery schools in both the U.K. and Italy. She has taught classes at Sur la Table stores in the U.S., is consultant chef to the popular Caffè Nero restaurant chain, and has appeared many times on BBC television. The author of more than 18 cookbooks including, most recently, “Cucina Siciliana,” she has also written for numerous publications.

Terry Brennan is a

Tara Q. Thomas is a lapsed

chef who trained at the Culinary Institute of America in New York. She used to enjoy going out to dinner before she had kids—now, she prefers to interview chefs, gathering intel on how to make home dinners better.

Thomas writes for several magazines, most prominently Wine & Spirits, where she is an editor and wine critic covering European wines. She has also contributed to the “Oxford Companion to Cheese” and the “Oxford Companion to Spirits.”

She lives in Brooklyn, New York.

photographer based in Minneapolis, Minnesota. Clients include Target, General Mills, Land O’Lakes and Hormel. “Working with Real Food is a highlight for me—I look forward to every issue. I love working with the creative team and, of course, sampling the wonderful recipes.”

Jason Ross is a chef consultant

for restaurants and hotels, developing menus and concepts for multiple high profile properties. He grew up and trained in New York City but now calls St. Paul, Minnesota, home. Currently, he teaches the next generation of chefs at Saint Paul College Culinary School.

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Robin Asbell spreads the

word about how truly delicious and beautiful whole, real foods can be through her work as an author, cooking teacher and private chef.

She likes to create delicious dishes that range from meat and seafood to beans and grains using global flavors.

Her latest book is “Plant-Based Meats.” She is also the author of “300 Best Blender Recipes Using Your Vitamix”; “Great Bowls of Food: Grain Bowls, Buddha Bowls, Broth Bowls and More”; “Juice It!”; “Big Vegan: Over 350 Recipes, No Meat, No Dairy, All Delicious”; “The New Vegetarian”; and “Gluten-Free Pasta.”

Lunds & Byerlys welcome

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FOOD QUESTIONS? Call our FoodE Experts: 952-548-1400

Quality and Convenience W

hat is one of the most important reasons someone chooses to shop at their preferred grocery store? For 27 percent of Americans the answer is a wide variety of easy, graband-go freshly prepared foods, according to the recent “U.S. Grocery Shopper Trends” report from the Food Marketing Institute (FMI).

Every year FMI surveys shoppers throughout the United States to gain a better understanding of our collective wants, needs and expectations for the important role a grocery store plays in offering food and meal solutions to feed ourselves and our families. This annual report is always filled with highly informative consumer feedback about all aspects of the grocery shopping experience.

In our quest to continuously enhance the shopping experience, these consumer insights serve as another valuable way to challenge and advance our thinking to ensure we’re always finding even more ways to meet your needs.

It’s probably not surprising that so many of us are looking for quick meal solutions for some of our weekly meals. Thankfully, it’s not happening at the expense of having family meals together.

“Consumers are actually eager for more meals at home with their families. Seventysix percent of parents and 64 percent of non-parents say eating homemade meals at home with their households is very important to them,” according to the FMI trend report.

There are so many benefits to enjoying meals together. Among the most profound is the correlation between family meals and teen use of drugs and alcohol.

Research from the Center on Addiction at Columbia University has repeatedly found that teens who have less than three meals per week with their families are significantly more likely to have used tobacco, alcohol and marijuana.

The challenge for many, of course, is preparing a high quality meal while also juggling the demands of their own schedule and those of their families.

Here at Lunds & Byerlys, we’re continuing to offer more and more convenient meal options throughout our stores.

Whether you’re looking for a high quality prepared meal that simply heats in minutes or a chef-crafted main dish featuring trend-forward flavors that can go right in the oven or on the grill for dinner in less than an hour, we’ve got you covered.

Another option for those looking to prepare a meal at home but are pressed for time is our L&B Meal Creations.

If you haven’t tried one of our meal kits yet, I would strongly encourage you to do so. These meals are a great way for the whole family to create a delicious meal together and still have dinner on the table in 40 minutes or less. To learn more about all of our convenient meal options, see pages 10-11.

Thank you for choosing to shop with us.

We hope you continue to enjoy Real Food.

Sincerely,

Tres Lund Chairman and CEO

REAL FOOD COMMENTS Aaron Sorenson: 952-927-3663

LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 9

Lunds & Byerlys meal solutions

Grab & Go Salads

What’s for Dinner?

Are you tired of answering the dreaded question “What’s for dinner?” We hear you. Evenings are quickly consumed by yoga classes, loads of laundry and kids’ activities. Getting dinner on the table can seem impossible. Here are our simple solutions for a quick, easy and satisfying dinner the whole family will love.

MEALS IN 1 MINUTE • L&B Salads and Sandwiches Deli Department • Hot Bar Deli Department Explore endless options from our hot bar. Our menu includes comfort food favorites, globally inspired dishes and classic Lunds & Byerlys recipes. We have everything from fried chicken and mashed potatoes to chimichurri buttered zoodles. It’s the perfect quick fix!

Salad Bar

• Salad Bar Deli Department Our salad bar is a mealtime mecca for quick, easy nutrition! It’s loaded with greens, whole grains, roasted and raw veggies, proteins, dried fruit and much more. Combine whatever you’re in the mood for to make a fun choose-your-own-adventure meal.

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Lunds & Byerlys meal solutions Seafood Steamers

MEALS IN ABOUT 1 HOUR OR LESS

MEALS IN 10 MINUTES OR LESS • Seafood Steamers Meat & Seafood Department Our seafood steamer meals are quick, easy and healthy options that provide you with a hot and tasty seafood meal. Sustainable salmon, tilapia and shrimp are paired with rice and vegetable blends and topped with bold sauces. They are delicious, guilt-free and convenient meals that steam in 4 minutes or less in the microwave.

• Ready-To-Heat Meals Ready-To-Heat Deli Department Meals Dinner can be on the table in mere minutes with our Ready-To-Heat meals. Whether you’re in the mood for traditional comfort food like meatloaf and mashed potatoes or globally inspired dishes like Peruvian beef and potatoes or Asian meatballs and soba noodles, selections abound. Offerings also include better-for-you meals like tandoori turkey and vegetables or simple proteins such as grilled chicken breast or herb-roasted turkey breast that can be heated and added to prepared dishes.

• L&B Soups Frozen Department

Saltimboca Meal Kit

• Butchers Kitchen Meat & Seafood Department Butchers Kitchen is a line of delicious grab-and-go dishes assembled fresh in our stores.

The lineup starts with ovenready meatloaves that range in flavor from traditional to molten mac and cheese to baconmashed potato. Each meatloaf feeds 3 to 4 people and bakes in just 1 hour. Additional offerings include stuffed pork chops, breaded chicken breasts and porchetta roasts.

• L&B Meal Creations Meal Kits Deli Department Take the guesswork out of dinner with L&B Meal Creations. These meal kits offer restaurant-quality meals in the comfort of your home. Each kit features a chef-crafted recipe that serves 2 and takes just 40 minutes or less to prepare. Whether you’re short on time or looking for new recipes, L&B Meal Creations will let you enjoy preparing a home-cooked meal with fewer steps and delicious results.

COMPLETING THE MEAL • L&B Frozen Vegetables Frozen Department Our L&B Frozen Vegetables are delicious, trend-forward mixes made with only the best ingredients. Each convenient blend takes just minutes to heat and is a nutritious alternative to traditionally prepared grain and starch side dishes. Choose from several blends, including riced cauliflower stir-fry, zucchini spirals, butternut squash spirals, Mediterranean riced cauliflower and mashed cauliflower, broccoli and cheese.

• Artisan Bread Bakery Department • L&B Cut Vegetables Produce Department In addition to carrot sticks and sliced jicama, we offer veggie blends that are ready to be added right to your recipes—fajitas, fried rice, stir-fries and more.

• L&B Cut Fruit Produce Department.

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LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 11

Lunds & Byerlys bakery

Celebration Cakes Special moments are even sweeter with a fabulous dessert

BY AMY FOUKS, DIRECTOR OF BAKERY

A

t Lunds & Byerlys our pastry chefs welcome the opportunity to design and handcraft a dessert masterpiece for your special occasion. Our cakes are inspired by traditional favorites and today’s trends. Whether you’re looking for a beautiful tiered cake, cupcakes or other bite-sized confections, our pastry chefs can create the perfect dessert for your next event.

Passion Fruit Torte Cake

CAKES Our best and most popular designs are perfect

DESSERTS & ENTERTAINING BITES Looking for

for cake-cutting ceremonies and can be supplemented with sheet cakes or small-bite options. These 6-inch by 8-inch layer cakes serve approximately 20 to 30 guests and are designed to fit any budget. Here are just a few of our elegant designs:

creative and unique entertaining ideas? Try these trendforward and convenient solutions for your next gathering.

Truffle Torte: Chocolate sponge cake and French chocolate buttercream with layers of ganache and chocolate buttercream are accented with chocolate drizzle and chocolate shavings.

Legacy Buttercream: Our light, moist white almond cake features layers of our signature buttercream and a homespun spatula design.

Table Cakes: These fun cakes make each guest’s table feel festive and serve as a gorgeous edible centerpiece.

Cupcakes: Available in mini or medium sizes, cupcakes are perfect to pair with a larger tiered cake or on their own.

Bar or Cheesecake Bites: Our favorite varieties of bars and cheesecakes come in small squares.

Truffle Torte Cake

Sweetheart Strawberry: Traditional sponge cake is filled with strawberry preserves, accented with glazed strawberries and topped with a crumb coat of French buttercream.

European Petite Pastries: These little pastries are fancy, fresh and fantastic! Choose from petite tarts, petit fours, French macarons, verinnes and dipped fresh fruit. Mix and match to fit your taste.

European Petite Pastries

Donuts: Looking for another fun option?

Try our donuts! Dozens of donuts make an impressive display and add some fun flair to your event. 

Choose from over 20 convenient Lunds & Byerlys locations to pick up your order or simply call our catering team to have your desserts delivered. Please call our L&B Contact Center at 952-548-1400 to get in touch with the location that’s most convenient for you to place your order. We look forward to creating something beautiful for your event!

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L&B GUIDE TO CHEESES

To learn more about these cheeses and how to use them, visit LUNDSandBYERLYS.com/Cheese

Lunds & Byerlys what’s in store

GOJAI SPARKLING WATERS Gojai (pronounced GO-HI) is a refreshing caffeinated sparkling water made with real fruit. Founder Lindsay Chamber created this line of beverages on her farm in Ojai, California, as a healthier alternative to diet caffeinated soda. The clean, simple recipe centers around fresh fruit and organic, non-GMO green coffee beans. Flavors include tangerine orange, raspberry lime, Meyer lemon and coastal blackberry.

Did you know? The business is infused with purpose—Gojai gives 1 percent of its profits to local environmental and clean water causes around Ojai.

KÜHNE GIN AND WHISKEY CORNICHONS Whiskey and gin lovers, listen up! Kühne is stirring up the snack scene with their newest creation—gin and whiskey cornichons. Extremely crunchy gherkins are combined with mild American bourbon whiskey to create a perfectly pickled snack with notes of honey and vanilla. Similarly, dry German gin provides a fruity sharp finish with tasty juniper and fresh citrus notes.

Tip: The cornichons are delicious enjoyed on their own, on a charcuterie board or used as the perfect cocktail garnish.

CRAIZE CRISPS Explore limitless snacking possibilities with Craize’s selection of wafer thin, authentic maize crisps. These tasty crisps are an evolution of the Latin corn arepa, but with a unique crunch. Made from natural and pure ingredients, these crisps are gluten free, vegan and kosher, which makes them a healthy snack for anyone to enjoy. Varieties include seeded, coconut and sweet corn.

Tip: Craize Crisps are the perfect canvas for an array of creative toppings that span sweet to savory. Try slathering the crisps with hummus or guacamole or even a stack of shredded pork and taco fixins’. For a sweet bite, top with Nutella or peanut butter and berries.

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Lunds & Byerlys what’s in store

SANDERS ARTISAN MIXES Upgrade your snacking with Sanders Artisan Mixes.

This new line of trail mixes uses artisan chocolates, high-grade roasted nuts and premium dried fruits to create the perfect sweet-and-salty snacks.

Whether you’re looking for an on-the-go snack or the perfect addition to a night in, these handcrafted mixes are the ultimate indulgence. Varieties include dark chocolate cherry, double chocolate fruit and dark chocolate caramel.

Did you know? Sanders Artisan Mixes are free of artificial colors, preservatives, partially hydrogenated oils and high-fructose corn syrup so you can feel good about indulging in these decadent snacks.

GARCÍA DE LA CRUZ HERITAGE ORGANIC EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OILS For the past 145 years, García de la Cruz has been creating the world’s finest organic extra virgin olive oils from the richest soils in Spain using sustainable methods. This year they’ve introduced the heritage collection, which consists of special edition organic olive oils made from a single olive variety. These extraordinary varieties come in showstopping, one-of-a-kind packaging, making them a great gift.

L&B CHEF SAUCES Dinner just got a little more exciting thanks to our new L&B Chef Sauces!

Meet the lineup: cheese, marinara, sausage tomato, Swedish cream and yellow curry.

Our chefs created all the sauce recipes in-house and they’re made with the best ingredients, so they taste amazing.

The ready-to-heat sauces are the building blocks for dozens of quick, easy meals.

Also be sure to look for our new line of glazing and dipping sauces in the deli!

Tip: The Swedish cream sauce is excellent on meatballs and sausage dishes. Try the yellow curry as a sauce on chicken or in rice dishes. Upgrade your pasta or zoodles with our marinara sauce or sausage tomato sauce. Amp up nachos or broccoli and cauliflower with the cheese sauce.

Did you know? Each olive oil variety has its own unique characteristics, which are best suited for specific dishes or flavor profiles. For example, the Hojiblanaca varietal is ideal for salmon, tuna, beef and salad while the Picual varietal is best suited for mushrooms, seafood and cheese.

LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 15

Meet the

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The Joy Makers work with Mother Nature to develop the best berries possible using proven natural traditional breeding processes such as hand cross-pollination (Driscoll’s Berries are not genetically modified). They work hard to ensure that those fresh, tasty, colorful beauties make their way to berry lovers all over the world.

Great moments of joy can come from sharing small things that are pure and natural.

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ingredient

5 Common Culinary Oils What to use for baking, frying and sautéing

BY EMILY HEEGAARD

F

OILS VALENTINA R. - ADOBE STOCK COCONUT OIL PIXEL-SHOT - ADOBE STOCK

ats and oils are an essential part of cooking. They prevent food sticking to the pan, bring out the flavor of food and facilitate the Maillard reaction—the oh-so-lovely product of amino acids and sugars reducing to get the browning on food that we all crave.

Not all oils are created equal, however. Different oils are best used depending on the cooking method, recipe and flavor profile you want to highlight. The main points to consider when thinking about oils for cooking are flavor and smoke point, which is the temperature at which oil starts to burn, tastes bitter and releases free radicals that contribute to inflammation.

Basically, the higher the smoke point, the better suited an oil is for frying and sautéing.

AVOCADO OIL Avocado oil is high in healthy, monounsaturated fat that can help reduce cholesterol levels and lower risk of heart disease. With a mild almost creamy taste and a high smoke point of about 520ºF, it’s versatile for sautéing, frying, roasting and acting as a substitute for most oils to bring a healthier touch to recipes including baked goods. It works well in salad dressings and marinades for chicken and seafood.

CANOLA OIL Made from the seeds of the rapeseed plant, canola oil’s neutral flavor makes it a popular option when you don’t wish to impart flavor from oil into your food. It’s rich in good-for-you omega-3 fatty acids and relatively low in saturated fats. It also has a high smoke point of about 400°F, so it’s ideal for frying, sautéing and baking. It's an all-around safe choice to use in most dishes.

COCONUT OIL This seemed to be all the rage a few years back as a panacea for any ailment. Unique from other oils, it is composed of 90 percent saturated fat, whereas beef fat or lard is about 40 percent saturated fat. While this may seem like bad news, coconut oil appears to raise good HDL cholesterol levels. Still, there isn’t a scientific consensus on whether or not coconut oil is as great as some studies report. Health claims aside, it is an extremely versatile ingredient. Unlike most oils, it’s solid at room temperature, making it a great substitute for butter in vegan baking or cooking. Refined coconut oil will be free of any natural coconut flavor while unrefined oil will have a light coconut flavor and smell that may affect the final flavor of the recipe. Refined coconut oil has a higher smoke point of about 400ºF, so it can be sautéed or fried, while unrefined oil has a smoke point of about 350ºF and is better suited for baking.

OLIVE OIL This is made when olives are crushed into a paste and the excess water is removed. Regular olive oil has a smoke point of about 470ºF and a lighter taste and color than extra-virgin olive oil, which has a low smoke point of about 374ºF. Part of the reason extra-virgin olive oil’s smoke point is lower is that it is unrefined, which also gives it more flavor and health benefits. Its healthy fats may help lower risk of heart disease, lower cholesterol and reduce inflammation.

In general, choose extra-virgin olive oil for dressings, dips and anything you won’t be putting under heat but still want to add flavor to, and go with “regular” olive oil for most other types of cooking.

VEGETABLE OIL One of the least expensive cooking oils you can buy, vegetable oil is similar to canola oil in flavor, color and smoke point.

Vegetable oil is actually a blend of several oils, most often including canola, corn, safflower and palm oils, but this information often isn’t displayed on the packaging. Its neutral flavor makes it great to cook with, especially for high heat frying when you want a crispy exterior on starchy foods like potatoes. It has a smoke point of about 400 or 450ºF depending on the refining process. It’s also a go-to oil for everything from salad dressing to pancakes and baked goods. 

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healthy habits

Keto and Paleo Diets Are they worth it? And what’s the difference?

W

ith social media, news tabloids and more, chances are you have heard the buzz about the stunning weight-loss transformations that keto and paleo diets can give. What do they really consist of, though? They both seem to be low carb, but what’s the difference? And is either the right diet for you? Here are the basics about two of the diets that are catching people’s attention right now.

WHAT IS THE PALEO DIET? The paleo diet is all about eating the way people did during the Paleolithic era, way back between 40,000 and 8,000 B.C. According to diet practitioners, people lived healthier with a more natural, well-rounded diet before modern agriculture practices took hold. (There is no solid evidence this is true.

Plus, Paleolithic-era people had different diets depending on where they lived.) Instead of calorie counting, the paleo diet is about choosing foods you could conceivably have hunted and gathered. That means saying no to obvious things such as sugary cereals, chips and processed foods as well as to somewhat surprising foods including legumes and dairy products.

Some of the rules are more semantic: For instance, some people do not eat potatoes because people did not domesticate the crop until the Neolithic age. This can cause more foods to come into question, and honestly, food origins get a little hazy when you look back that far. Other paleo followers don’t eat potatoes because they technically have a toxin in them, as do eggplants, bell peppers and tomatoes, which are in the same family. Still more choose not to eat them because they are high on the glycemic index. Another disagreement can be found around grass-fed butter because while dairy was not consumed by those of the Paleolithic era, grass-fed butter undergoes a process where the milk solids are removed.

Regardless, the broad strokes of the paleo diet regimen aim to make your diet healthier by omitting processed and refined

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foods (including many popular sources of carbohydrates) from your diet. Since you get to largely choose your food within these guidelines, many people find this diet more sustainable than the restrictive keto diet. The key is to watch your portion sizes and to make sure you’re choosing the healthier choices within each category option.

“For example, with protein, if you’re eating high fat protein sources, that can raise your cholesterol,” says Angie Murad, a dietitian with the Mayo Clinic’s Healthy Living Program in Rochester, Minnesota. The paleo diet emphasizes meat and fish in particular, as people commonly assume that those were staples of the Paleo era diet. (Meat consumption in proportion to other food groups in the Paleolithic era is still largely undetermined.) “[However] if you are eating nuts and seeds and olive oil, those are very healthy types of fat that can actually lower your bad cholesterol and raise the good cholesterol.”

While you’re cutting down on carbohydrates, that doesn’t mean you won’t be eating any at all. Indeed, according to Loren Cordain, a professor emeritus at Colorado State University who is credited for making the paleo diet mainstream, most people still get about 35 to 45 percent of their calories from carbohydrates. One paleo plate guide even suggests that you fill your plate half with non-starchy vegetables, one quarter with lean protein and one quarter with starchy carbohydrates. What people should be vigilant about are the nutrients they are missing without dairy, such as vitamin D or calcium. Therefore, make sure to include foods such as broccoli and dark leafy greens in your diet.

WHAT IS THE KETO DIET? The ketogenic, or “keto,” diet was originally created to treat childhood epilepsy in the 1920s, and although the reasons it works are still not known, it has been shown to help reduce seizures. As the keto diet involves starving your body of

PHOTO ANAUMENKO - ADOBE STOCK

BY LIANNA MATT MCLERNON

carbohydrates, it started gaining more mainstream notice when the Atkins diet, also based on low carbohydrates, became popular in the 1970s. Then it started slipping into a variety of other diets, eventually becoming the viral trend it is today. And, to be fair, the keto diet does help you shed weight quickly. It is maintaining the diet that’s the problem.

On the diet, your body runs off ketones, which are derived from fat cells, rather than glucose and carbohydrates. To get to this point, you have to severely limit your carbohydrate intake to about 5 to 10 percent of your total daily calories.

(For reference, Mayo Clinic has recommended that carbohydrates make up 45 to 65 percent of your daily caloric intake.)

The remaining ratio of your diet is generally as follows: 15 to 30 percent of your calories in your diet should be protein, and 60 to 75 percent should be from fat.

Oftentimes, people on keto diets benefit from taking supplements to make up for the nutrition usually provided by the foods they have cut out. Another reason to take supplements is because if you go on the keto diet, you store less water and more of your electrolytes such as sodium, potassium and magnesium get flushed out. For this reason, some keto followers recommend heavily salting your food, drinking broth and eating pickled vegetables.

Keto’s extreme diet change may cause you to experience what is called the “keto flu” for a few weeks when you first begin, which can deplete energy levels, cause mood swings, and affect your breath and digestion. However, once you get past that hurdle, people on the keto diet claim that the weight starts dropping, their energy and mood levels rise and stabilize again, and their skin clears up—the diet may even help prevent heart and cancer complications later on.

All in all, the keto diet can cause you to lose weight more quickly than other diets. However, it is difficult to maintain for the short-term results, let alone for the rest of your life. Once your body has enough carbohydrates, it loses its ketosis state and its benefits. Also, if you choose to go back to a more mainstream diet, it can be difficult to regulate your carbohydrates to a moderate, healthy quantity. The diet’s high fat content combined with limits on nutritious fruits, vegetables and grains could also be a concern for long-term heart health.

THE BOTTOM LINE? Although paleo and keto diets have different ideologies, some of the byproducts, such as eating less carbohydrates, are the same. The keto diet is all about the ratio of macronutrients, whereas paleo is more so about the food choices. Many of their approved food groups overlap; however, paleo also says no to dairy and sugar-free sweeteners but yes to starchy vegetables and most fruits, which are both often too high in carbohydrates for keto dieters to really eat (see chart at right).

ARE EITHER THE RIGHT DIET FOR YOU? If a keto or paleo diet works for you, it works for you—as long as you are making sure to cover all of your nutritional needs.

With either diet, you eliminate most of the processed foods that have saturated our modern diet, and you lower the carbohydrates that are all too easy to binge. However, if the diets don’t fit your lifestyle, that’s more than okay. After all, Murad doesn’t have a go-to diet that she prescribes to her clients: She helps them figure out what changes will work best for their individual lifestyles.

As you’re figuring out what diet fits you, remember: Don’t be afraid of carbohydrates. “Just as I was talking about with protein, with carbohydrates, there are healthier choices [and less healthy choices],” Murad says. “If we can move toward whole grains, whole-wheat bread, whole-wheat pasta, quinoa and any of those ancient type grains … we’re going to have health benefits because they help with fiber; help us digest more slowly; give us protein, which also keeps us more satiated; and then they have antioxidants, which may help decrease the incidence of chronic disease and [promote] heart health.”

There are so many diets out there and articles about how to live your healthiest life. Even as the facts seem to confuse or contradict each other as new information comes out, one overarching truth remains. “In order to maintain weight loss,” Murad says, “follow something sustainable.” Follow something that you can incorporate your whole life, not only for a six-month weight loss program. 

Keto vs. Paleo Food Choices FOOD

KETO

PALEO

Nuts and seeds

√

√

Unprocessed meat and seafood

√

√

Eggs

√

√

Healthful Fats

√

√

Non-starchy Vegetables

√

√

Dairy

√

x X

Sugar-free Sweeteners

√

x X

Natural Sweeteners

x X

√

Most Fruits

x X

√

Starchy Vegetables

x X

√

White and Brown Sugar

x X

x X

Grains

x X

x X

Legumes

x X

x X

Processed Foods

x X

x X

Always consult your doctor if you have health concerns or before making any major dietary changes.

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Spring Brunch Fresh flavors of the season and comforting fare come together in a festive menu

BY MOLLY STEVENS

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

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S

pring weather can be fickle—sunshine and blue

skies one day and cold and dreary clouds the next—and spring menu planning is similar. One day we crave the bright fresh taste of spring, and another we long for the comforts of cold-weather fare. To satisfy both wants, here is a menu that brings spring with fresh asparagus and an herb-packed egg bake while still providing comfort with a cheesy cauliflower casserole and sweet baked ham. There is also a batch of tender, buttery scones because something warm from the oven suits any season. And just as spring is all about transition, so is this menu: You can prepare it in its entirety and have a festive brunch for a crowd, or you can pick and choose one or two dishes to serve as breakfast, lunch or even supper. Many of the recipes also include do-ahead tips, making them ideal for bringing along when you’re invited to a potluck celebration.

Mushroom and Herb Egg Bake MAKES 8 SERVINGS AS A MAIN COURSE, 10 TO 12 AS PART OF A BUFFET

This versatile egg casserole can be served warm from the oven or at room temperature. It’s suitable as a main course for brunch, lunch or even supper. You can also cut it into small bites to serve on a buffet or as a snack with drinks.

4 tablespoons olive oil, divided, plus more for the dish 1 medium yellow onion, chopped 12 ounces mushrooms, white or cremini, trimmed and sliced 4 scallions, white and green parts, chopped 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 12 large eggs 1/2 cup sour cream or crème fraîche 1 cup shredded cheese, such as cheddar or a mix of cheddar, Swiss and Parmesan 3 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs, such as parsley, dill, chives or a combination ½ teaspoon salt or to taste freshly ground black pepper, to taste 8 ounces favorite sausage, cooked and crumbled (optional) 1. Heat the oven to 350°F and generously oil a 9x13-inch baking dish.

2. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, season with salt and pepper, and sauté, stirring occasionally, until tender and golden, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a bowl, scraping the skillet with a silicone spatula, and return it to the heat. Add the remaining olive oil and the mushrooms, season with salt and pepper, and sauté until tender and beginning to brown, about 4 minutes. Stir in the scallions and garlic and continue to sauté until fragrant, another 30 seconds or so. Add the mushroom mixture to the onions.

3. Whisk the eggs and sour cream until well combined and slightly frothy.

Stir in the cooked vegetables, cheese and herbs. Season with 1/2 teaspoon salt (or to taste) and several grinds of black pepper. Pour into the baking dish. If using the sausage, scatter it over the surface (this ensures that it will be evenly distributed).

4. Bake until the top is puffed and golden and the center jiggles only slightly when you shake the pan, 25 to 30 minutes. Cut into squares and serve warm or at room temperature.

Cook’s Notes: If there is no meat in your menu (and you’re not making a vegetarian meal), consider adding the optional cooked sausage for an even more satisfying dish.

Vary the cheese according to your taste and what’s in your fridge. For an even cheesier bake, add an extra 1/2 cup grated or crumbled cheese.

For a make-ahead option, assemble the casserole and refrigerate overnight before baking. You may need to add a few minutes to bake time.

For mini egg bakes, pour the mixture into 18 to 20 well-greased muffin tins. Reduce the baking time to 12 to 15 minutes.

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MUSHROOM AND HERB EGG BAKE

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BROWN SUGAR AND BOURBON GLAZED HAM, ASPARAGUS-ARUGULA SALAD WITH SUNFLOWER SEEDS AND CITRUS VINAIGRETTE AND CAULIFLOWER AND LEEK GRATIN

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Brown Sugar and Bourbon Glazed Ham MAKES 10 TO 12 SERVINGS

Most ham sold today is already fully cooked, but taking the time to bake it before serving greatly improves the taste and texture and provides the opportunity to baste it with a deliciously sweet, sticky glaze.

1 (5- to 6-pound) fully cooked boneless or (7- to 8-pound) bone-in ham ½ cup dark brown sugar 2 tablespoons mustard, Dijon or yellow 1 tablespoon bourbon or other whiskey (or substitute apple cider) ½ teaspoon ground allspice 1 cup apple cider, chicken broth or water, as needed 1. Heat the oven to 325°F. Remove the packaging and place the ham on a heavy-duty baking sheet or in a low-sided roasting pan. Let it sit at room temperature while the oven heats.

2. Combine the sugar, mustard, bourbon and allspice in a bowl and mix to make a smooth paste. Pat dry the surface of the ham, and spread 2 tablespoons of the sugar glaze over the top side. Pour enough cider (or other liquid) into the pan so there is about 1/4-inch liquid in the bottom (this prevents the glaze from burning).

3. Bake, basting with pan drippings and spooning more glaze on every 20 to 30 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center reads 135 to 140°F, about 11/2 hours (12 to 15 minutes per pound) for boneless and 11/2 to 2 hours for bonein ham. If at any point the pan seems to be drying up, add more cider (or other liquid).

4. Transfer the ham to a carving board, tent loosely with foil, and let it rest for 20 minutes to 2 hours before carving. If desired, save the pan drippings to drizzle over the ham before serving.

Cook’s Notes: The frequent basting and glazing will slow down the cooking. If you glaze it less frequently, expect it to bake more quickly.

Baked ham needs no sauce, but if you like, put out a jar of honey mustard. You can also make a quick creamy mustard sauce by whisking your favorite mustard into mayonnaise or sour cream and seasoning it with a dash of vinegar, salt and pepper.

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Asparagus-Arugula Salad with Sunflower Seeds and Citrus Vinaigrette MAKES 8 TO 12 SERVINGS

Sweet asparagus pairs with the sharp taste of arugula for this green-ongreen spring salad. The asparagus also gives the salad enough heft so that it can stand up on a buffet longer than leafy salads. If fresh pea shoots are available, their sweet flavor makes an exciting contribution; add a few handfuls when tossing.

For the Dressing 2 tablespoons minced shallot 1 teaspoon freshly grated orange zest 1/2 teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon white wine or sherry vinegar pinch salt 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

For the Salad 2 pounds asparagus, preferably thick 10 ounces baby arugula or spinach 1/4 cup chopped chives salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1/2 cup sunflower seeds, roasted

1. Prepare the dressing: In a small jar, combine the shallot, orange and lemon zests, lemon juice, and vinegar. Add a pinch of salt. Cover the jar and shake to blend. Add the oil and shake well to combine.

2. Snap off the tough bottoms of the asparagus spears and discard them. Cut off the tips and set aside. Slice the stems on a sharp diagonal about 1/4-inch thick. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the tips and cook until crisp-tender, about 2 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon, transfer to a colander and immediately rinse with cold water. Repeat with the sliced spears, allowing them to cook only about 1 minute. Spread both out onto a towel-lined tray to dry.

3. Put the asparagus tips in a small bowl and coat very lightly with dressing. Set aside. Combine the arugula, chives and asparagus spears in a large bowl. Toss the salad with enough dressing to coat lightly (you may not need it all), and salt and pepper to taste. Scatter the top with sunflower seeds and the asparagus tips and serve.

Cook’s Notes: The dressing can be prepared and refrigerated for up to 2 days ahead.

Shake well before serving.

The asparagus can be cooked up to 1 day ahead. Wrap in towels and refrigerate until serving.

If you can only find raw sunflower seeds, toast them yourself by heating in a dry skillet over medium heat until fragrant and slightly darkened, 3 to 5 minutes. Sprinkle with a little salt and let cool.

Save any extra leftover vinaigrette to drizzle on steamed vegetables or grilled chicken.

If you have leftover hard-boiled Easter eggs, they make a great addition to this salad. Peel, chop coarsely and add along with the asparagus tips and sunflower seeds.

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Cauliflower and Leek Gratin MAKES 8 SERVINGS AS A SIDE, 10 TO 12 AS PART OF A BUFFET

Cauliflower replaces potatoes for a lighter and more flavorful take on a classic casserole, making a delightful addition to a festive brunch. The leeks add a sweeter, more complex flavor, but you can substitute onions if you like (see Cook’s Notes).

1 large head cauliflower (about 2 pounds), trimmed and cut into 1-inch florets 4 tablespoons butter, divided, plus more for the dish 1 large or 2 medium leeks (12 ounces), trimmed, split lengthwise, cut into 1/2-inch pieces 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 cup half-and-half or whole milk 1 teaspoon Dijon-style mustard 1/8 teaspoon nutmeg (preferably freshly grated) 1 cup shredded Gruyère or Comté cheese ½ teaspoon salt or to taste freshly ground black pepper, to taste

CAULIFLOWER AND LEEK GRATIN

1. Heat the oven to 350°F and butter a large gratin dish or a 9x13-inch baking dish.

2. Bring a large pot of water to a boil, add a palmful of salt, and add half the cauliflower. Return the water to a boil and cook until the florets are crisp-tender, about 3 minutes. Scoop them into a strainer to drain and repeat with the remaining cauliflower. Shake the strainer to remove excess moisture, then spread the cauliflower onto a towel-lined tray to cool and dry. Set aside.

3. Melt 2 tablespoons of butter in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the leeks, season with a pinch of salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, 5 to 7 minutes. If the leeks threaten to brown at any point, lower the heat and stir to prevent them from turning crisp. Scatter the leeks evenly over the bottom of the gratin dish.

4. Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter in a small saucepan over medium heat.

Add the flour and whisk to create a smooth paste. Cook, whisking steadily, for about 2 minutes, but do not let the paste brown. Slowly whisk in the half-and-half or milk.

Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, whisking frequently, and simmer until thick, about 1 minute. Season with mustard, nutmeg, about 1/2 teaspoon salt (or to taste), and plenty of black pepper. The sauce should be highly seasoned.

5. Arrange the cauliflower on top of the layer of leeks. Spread the sauce evenly over the cauliflower and top with the cheese. Bake until the top is browned and bubbly, 40 to 50 minutes. Let sit for at least 10 minutes to settle. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Cook’s Notes: Boiling cauliflower in batches allows it to cook more quickly and not become waterlogged and sodden.

Leeks require careful washing. After chopping, drop them into a large bowl of cool water and swish around to remove any dirt. Lift the leeks out of the bowl and drain in a colander. Shake dry before cooking.

If leeks are unavailable, substitute 1 medium onion or 2 large shallots, and sauté until tender and golden.

The cauliflower can be boiled and refrigerated for 24 hours, and the gratin can be assembled and refrigerated for several hours before baking.

For a crunchy topping, combine the cheese with 1/3 cup breadcrumbs or panko before spreading over the unbaked gratin.

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Toasted Oat, Flaxseed and Pecan Scones MAKES 16 (3-INCH) SCONES

Toasted rolled oats, pecans and whole flaxseed add a nutty taste and pleasing heft to these not-too-sweet scones. They are best the day they are made.

1/2 cup rolled oats 1/4 cup flaxseed 3 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for shaping 1/3 cup granulated sugar 1 tablespoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt (use 3/4 teaspoon if using unsalted butter)

1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom 12 tablespoons (6 ounces) cold butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes (salted or unsalted) 1 cup pecans, toasted and chopped 1 cup cold buttermilk, plus more for glazing 1 tablespoon turbinado or granulated sugar, for glazing

1. Heat the oven to 425°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. Place the oats in a dry skillet over medium heat and toast, shaking and stirring, until toasty and slightly darker, about 3 minutes. Add the flaxseed, stir and remove from the heat as soon as the seeds begin to crackle, about 10 seconds. Transfer to a plate to cool.

3. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt and cardamom. Stir in the cooled oats and flaxseeds. Using a pastry blender or your fingertips, work the butter into the dry ingredients, flattening and breaking up the pieces until the mixture looks pebbly; no pieces should be larger than a pea. Add the pecans and mix to combine. Pour in the buttermilk and stir a few times to combine into a shaggy dough.

4. Turn the dough out onto a floured work surface and fold the dough over onto itself, kneading gently 6 or 8 times until it holds together in a loose but cohesive shape. Pat the dough into a slab about 3/4-inch thick and use a cookie cutter or knife to cut into 3-inch scones. Gather the scraps and re-roll and shape into more scones. Transfer to the baking sheet, spacing about 2 inches apart. Brush the tops with buttermilk and sprinkle with sugar.

5. Bake until nicely browned, about 16 minutes. Serve warm or let cool on a wire rack.

Cook’s Notes: For make-ahead scones, assemble and shape the scones a day ahead, place on the baking sheet and refrigerate overnight before baking. Bake directly from the refrigerator. You can also freeze the unbaked scones for up to 2 weeks—bake directly from the freezer, adding 3 minutes baking time.

The scones are also delicious served with a spoonful of fruit jam. 

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NUTRITION

»

MUSHROOM & HERB EGG BAKE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 203; FAT 16g (sat. 6g); CHOL 220mg; SODIUM 248mg; CARB 4g; FIBER 1g; ADDED SUGARS 0g; PROTEIN 11g

BROWN SUGAR & BOURBON GLAZED HAM: PER SERVING: CALORIES 406; FAT 19g (sat. 7g); CHOL 122mg; SODIUM 3161mg; CARB 9g; FIBER 0g; ADDED SUGARS 6g; PROTEIN 47g

ASPARAGUS-ARUGULA SALAD W. SUNFLOWER SEEDS & CITRUS VINAIGRETTE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 153; FAT 14g (sat. 2g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 167mg; CARB 5g; FIBER 2g; ADDED SUGARS 0g; PROTEIN 3g

CAULIFLOWER & LEEK GRATIN: PER SERVING: CALORIES 132; FAT 10g (sat. 6g); CHOL 30mg; SODIUM 251mg; CARB 6g; FIBER 1g; ADDED SUGARS 0g; PROTEIN 5g

TOASTED OAT, FLAXSEED & PECAN SCONES: PER SERVING: CALORIES 249; FAT 14g (sat. 6g); CHOL 23mg; SODIUM 296mg; CARB 27g; FIBER 2g; ADDED SUGARS 5g; PROTEIN 4g

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FRIED BULGUR WITH SHRIMP AND PEAPODS (RECIPE PAGE 37)

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

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Go with the Grain Broaden your horizons and bolster nutrition with a variety of whole grains

BY ROBIN ASBELL

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OAT AND CHEDDAR MUFFINS WITH SPICY BLACK BEANS

32 real food fall 2019

S

pring is the perfect time to change up your cooking routine, and there is ample reason to swap your refined starches for whole grains. Throughout

human history, whole grains have provided concentrated nutrients, fiber and complex carbohydrates for energy. Eating more whole grains is associated with lowered risks of heart disease, stroke, cancer, diabetes and obesity. If that’s not enough, their nutty flavors and satisfying textures will win you over.

We all know the familiar whole grains such as brown rice and whole-wheat bread, but have you given millet, farro, bulgur or quinoa a try yet? Maybe it’s

GRAIN GUIDE

Learn more about the grains used in the featured recipes including cooking tips so you can try them in additional meals.

time you tried baking with oat flour instead of wheat or swapping out a white breadcrumb coating for whole-grain cornmeal on your chicken entrees.

Broadening your whole-grain horizons just might motivate you to add more of these flavorful, nutritious wonders of nature to your shopping list.

Oat and Cheddar Muffins with Spicy Black Beans MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

These muffins become tender from fresh flour created by using your blender to grind up the oatmeal. Paired with a simple bowl of spiced black beans, they are a perfect gluten-free lunch or dinner.

For the Muffins 21/4 cups gluten-free rolled oats, divided 1/4 cup light brown sugar 21/2 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon salt 1/4 cup avocado or canola oil 1 cup milk 2 large eggs, whisked 2 ounces sharp cheddar cheese, shredded

For the Beans 1 tablespoon avocado or canola oil 1 large onion, chopped 1 large red bell pepper, chopped 1 large jalapeño, chopped 1 tablespoon cumin 2 cans black beans, with juice 1/2 teaspoon salt

1. For the Muffins: Preheat oven to 350°F. Line a 12-cup muffin tin with muffin papers and reserve. In a blender place 2 cups of the oats and secure the lid. Grind the oats to a fine powder, pulsing on and off. Transfer the oats to a large bowl. Stir in the reserved 1/4 cup oats, brown sugar, baking powder and salt. In a cup, stir the oil, milk and eggs, and whisk well to combine. Pour the milk mixture over the oat mixture and stir to combine. Let stand for 5 minutes for the oats to hydrate. Fold in the shredded cheese, then use a 1/4 cup measure to portion the batter into the muffin cups. If there is a little left, divide it among them.

2. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes until a toothpick inserted in the center of a muffin comes out with no wet batter clinging to it. Cool in the pan on a rack.

3. For the Beans: Place a large sauté pan over medium-high heat and drizzle in the oil.

Add the onion and red bell pepper and stir, cooking until it starts to sizzle. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook for 5 minutes. When the onions are softened, add the jalapeño, cumin, black beans and salt and bring to a boil. When hot and thick, serve alongside the muffins. The muffins keep, tightly covered, for 3 days at room temperature. The beans keep for 4 days in the refrigerator.

OATS Oats are a sweet, mild grain that are mainly sold in either steel cut or rolled form, with the latter being more popular because of its ability to cook quickly. Oats are famous for containing beta-glucans and other starches that sweep cholesterol from the body, and they also contain very high amounts of manganese and molybdenum and high amounts of copper, biotin, B1 and zinc. Oats are also loaded with fiber, which helps your satiation and digestion. Gluten-free oats are available, which are guaranteed to have been grown and processed in a gluten-free environment.

Cook according to package directions for each type— time ranges from about 3 minutes for quick, 5 for old-fashioned and 25 for steel-cut.

spring 2020 real food 33

CORNMEAL CRUSTED CHICKEN FINGERS OVER SHIITAKE QUINOA PILAF

34 real food spring 2020

Cornmeal Crusted Chicken Fingers over Shiitake Quinoa Pilaf MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

The same old chicken breast gets a little more exciting when it’s coated with whole-grain cornmeal for a crunchy, herby crust. Pile the strips on a savory quinoa and mushroom pilaf and top with a sweet and tangy apricot drizzle, and you have a meal to remember.

For the Pilaf 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1 large onion, chopped 1 large carrot, quartered and sliced 4 ounces fresh shiitake mushrooms, sliced 2 cups chicken stock 1/2 teaspoon salt 11/2 cups quinoa 1/2 cup fresh parsley, chopped For the Drizzle 1/2 cup apricot jam 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice 1/4 teaspoon salt For the Chicken 3/4 cup cornmeal 1 teaspoon dried thyme 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon pepper 1/4 cup Dijon mustard 1 large egg 1 pound skinless, boneless chicken breast halves 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons olive oil 1. Make the pilaf. In a 2-quart pot, drizzle the olive oil and place the pan over medium-high heat. Add the onion and carrot and stir until the onion starts to sizzle. Reduce the heat to medium-low and stir occasionally for about 5 minutes until the onion is tender and lightly golden. Add the mushrooms and stir, increasing the heat to medium and cooking until the mushrooms are softened, about 5 minutes. Add the chicken stock and salt and raise the heat to bring to a boil. Add the quinoa and return to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and cover the pot. Cook for 15 minutes.

2. When all the liquids are absorbed, stir in the parsley and keep warm until ready to serve.

3. For the drizzle, in a cup, stir the apricot jam and lemon juice and reserve.

4. Prepare a plate with paper towels for draining finished chicken. In a pie pan, mix the cornmeal with thyme, salt and pepper. In another pie pan, whisk egg and mustard. Cut chicken in long, ¾- to 1-inch wide strips and coat in egg and then in crumbs. Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. When hot, add the butter and oil and then the chicken strips.

When the pan is sizzling, reduce heat slightly. Flip the pieces with tongs when browned, about 2 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels and serve immediately over pilaf with 2 to 3 tablespoons of apricot drizzle over the chicken.

QUINOA This ancient grain was the staple food for the Inca people and was thought to be lost to us until it was rediscovered in the 1970s. It is now one of the most popular whole grains because of its nutty flavor, quick cooking time, and high protein and calcium content. Quinoa is also gluten free and very digestible. It comes in white, red and black varieties, so you can choose the color that sets off the meal you are making without altering the taste.

Use 11/4 cups water to 1 cup quinoa. Cooks in 15 minutes.

CORNMEAL Look for whole cornmeal that does not say “degerminated” on the package, which means that the germ has been removed and it is not a whole grain.

A medium or coarse cornmeal is perfect for coating foods. Whole cornmeal is high in antioxidants, especially lutein and zeaxanthin for eye health, and it is a good source of fiber, magnesium, phosphorus, manganese, selenium and thiamine. Cooking/prep will vary by recipe.

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MILLET-CRUSTED SPINACH QUICHE

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Millet-Crusted Spinach Quiche MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Skip the rich pastry crust and make your quiche with golden millet for an easy whole-grain upgrade.

Simply mix egg into the millet and pat it in a pan for the crust, and then pour the eggy filling over it to hold it all together. Use a blender to make the filling, and it all comes together in a snap.

1/2 cup millet, toasted 1 teaspoon salt, divided 6 large eggs, divided 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1 large onion, chopped

4 ounces chevre cheese 1 teaspoon dried dill 4 ounces fresh spinach olive oil for pan

1. In a 1-quart pot, place the millet and put the pan over medium-high heat. Swirl the grain over the heat until it smells like popcorn and looks lightly toasted. Remove from heat and carefully add 1 cup water. It will bubble up, so stand back. Place back on the heat and bring to a boil, then reduce to the lowest setting. Cover and cook for 20 to 25 minutes. The grain will be cooked and the liquids should be absorbed. Remove from heat and let cool.

2. Generously butter a 9-inch pie pan and reserve.

3. When the grain is cooled, stir in 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1 egg, then pat in the prepared pie pan, making the mixture into a crust. Reserve.

4. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Place a medium sauté pan over medium heat and drizzle with olive oil. Add the onion and sauté, lowering the heat as it softens. Cook, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 5 minutes. Place in the blender container. Add the remaining salt and eggs, chevre, dill and spinach. Pulse to blend the mixture until smooth. Pour over the millet in the pan and smooth the top.

5. Bake in preheated oven for 35 minutes, until the quiche feels firm when pressed with a fingertip. Let cool on a rack for 5 minutes before slicing. Leftovers will keep for 4 days, tightly covered, in the refrigerator.

MILLET Pale yellow millet is most often seen in birdseed mixes, but it deserves a place in your kitchen, too. Gluten-free millet is sweet, mild and sunny looking. It is high in magnesium, copper, phosphorus and manganese, all of which are very protective of your health. Use 2 to 3 cups water to each cup of millet, depending on how soft you want it to be. Cook 25 minutes.

Fried Bulgur with Shrimp and Peapods MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Ditch the white rice and make this whole-grain version of Chinese fried rice. Bulgur gives the dish a nutty flavor and chewy texture you’ll love. Any leftovers are great reheated for lunch or dinner.

11/2 cups bulgur 2 cups water 1 pound large shrimp 6 ounces snow peas, trimmed 3 large scallions, cut in 1-inch pieces 3 large eggs 1/2 teaspoon crushed chilies

1 tablespoon ginger, chopped 1 clove garlic, chopped 3 tablespoons tamari soy sauce 2 tablespoons rice vinegar 2 teaspoons sugar 2 tablespoons canola oil 1/2 cup peanuts, chopped, optional

1. In a 4-quart saucepan with a tightly fitting lid, bring the water to a boil. Add the bulgur, return to a boil, then reduce heat to a low simmer. Cover tightly and cook for 12 minutes. When all the liquids are absorbed, remove from heat and let stand, covered, for 5 minutes.

2. Peel and devein the shrimp, pat dry with paper towels, and reserve. Stem the snow peas and slice the scallions, and reserve. Whisk the eggs in a cup and reserve. In a cup, mix chilies, ginger, garlic, tamari, rice vinegar and sugar; reserve.

3. Heat a wok or large sauté pan over high heat until hot, then drizzle in the canola oil and tip to spread on the pan. Add the shrimp and stir-fry until cooked through, about 2 to 4 minutes.

Stir in the pea pods and scallions and cook for 1 minute. Pour eggs into the middle of the pan, then add the cooked bulgur and soy sauce mixture. Let cook for 1 minute to set the eggs, then start stirring and turning the mixture. Cook over high heat until the eggs are cooked and the bulgur looks dry. Transfer to a serving bowl and top with peanuts, if using. Serve hot.

BULGUR Bulgur is whole wheat that has been parboiled, dried and chopped into bits. It has the bonus of cooking quickly, and you can also just soak it in cold water to rehydrate. The standard bulgur that you will find in American stores is classified as medium grain. The process of parboiling the grain drives the nutrients deeper into the nutty chunks, making it a very nutritious food.

Use 11/2 cups water for every 1 cup bulgur. Cooks in about 15 minutes.

spring 2020 real food 37

FARRO BOWL WITH SPRING VEGETABLES AND MINT PESTO

38 real food spring 2020

Farro Bowl with Spring Vegetables and Mint Pesto MAKES 4 SERVINGS

The bowl meal has caught on because it’s the flexible way to eat. Just cook the grain, prep the rest and keep it all in the refrigerator until you are ready to make one bowl or all four. Pack it to take to work, and you have a healthy whole-grain lunch.

1 cup farro 2 cups water for semi-pearled, or 3 for whole farro For the Mint Pesto 1/2 cup fresh mint leaves 1/2 cup fresh parsley 1 clove fresh garlic 1/4 cup pistachio nuts 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1/2 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon vegetable stock or water 1 bunch asparagus, washed and trimmed 4 ounces snap peas, trimmed 4 large red radishes, sliced, stacked and then sliced into batons 4 baby carrots, quartered lengthwise mint sprigs, for garnish

NUTRITION

1. Cook the farro: Bring the water to a boil and add the farro. Return to a boil and cover tightly, then lower the heat to the lowest setting and cook for 20 minutes for semi-pearled farro or 40 to 60 minutes for whole farro. When the grain is tender, drain any excess water and let it cool completely.

2. While the farro cools, make the pesto. In a food processor bowl, combine the mint, parsley, garlic and pistachio nuts. Process to a paste, scraping down and repeating as needed to make it smooth. Add the olive oil, salt and lemon juice and process until smooth. Drizzle in 1 tablespoon of water to thin for drizzling.

3. Stir 2 tablespoons of the pesto into the cooked farro, then portion about 3/4 cup per bowl.

Top each bowl with 1/4 of the raw vegetables, arranging them in piles on top of the grain.

Drizzle each bowl with about 2 tablespoons of pesto. Garnish with mint and serve. 

OAT & CHEDDAR MUFFINS W. SPICY BLACK BEANS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 583; FAT 24g (sat. 5g); CHOL 88mg; SODIUM 1555mg; CARB 72g; FIBER 17g; ADDED SUGARS 7g; PROTEIN 23g

CORNMEAL CRUSTED CHICKEN FINGERS OVER SHIITAKE QUINOA PILAF: PER SERVING: CALORIES 610; FAT 21g (sat. 6g); CHOL 93mg; SODIUM 882mg; CARB 72g; FIBER 6g; ADDED SUGARS 14g; PROTEIN 33g

MILLET-CRUSTED SPINACH QUICHE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 224; FAT 12g (sat. 5g); CHOL 195mg; SODIUM 555mg; CARB 16g; FIBER 2g; ADDED SUGARS 0g; PROTEIN 12g

FARRO Farro is one of the heirloom grains that has become very popular in recent years. It is an ancient variety of wheat that comes in three species: einkorn, emmer and spelt. The biggest difference between your choices, however, is not the type of farro but whether the farro has been pearled or not. Whole, unpearled farro has a sturdy bran layer, which gives it a longer cooking time and a slightly crunchy texture when cooked. Semi-pearled has had some bran removed and is popular and easy to find, and pearled farro has had all the bran removed.

Both pearled forms cook more quickly. Cook in ample water: 2 cups water per 1 cup semi-pearled; 3 cups water per 1 cup whole farro, and you might still drain some at the end when tender. Semi-pearled farro cooks in 25 minutes, and whole farro takes 45 to 60 minutes.

FRIED BULGUR W. SHRIMP & PEAPODS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 280; FAT 8g (sat. 1g); CHOL 180mg; SODIUM 600mg; CARB 34g; FIBER 6g; ADDED SUGARS 1g; PROTEIN 21g

FARRO BOWL W. SPRING VEGETABLES & MINT PESTO: PER SERVING: CALORIES 340; FAT 15g (sat. 2g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 329mg; CARB 47g; FIBER 10g; ADDED SUGARS 0g; PROTEIN 11g

spring 2020 real food 39

Savoring Sicily Enjoy a taste of cuisine that is bright, earthy and infused with Italian sunshine

SICILY’S MOUNT ETNA

40 real food spring 2020

W

ithin Sicily’s cuisine, overarching influences of the sea, sun and soil mingle with a fusion

of flavors from the Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Normans and Spanish who have occupied the land over the centuries. About the size of the state of Maryland, the Italian island of Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, making seafood a natural on menus. On land, the intensely rich and fertile soil and brilliant sunshine produce flavorful tomatoes, potatoes and olives for fragrant oils. Plus, the island’s world-famous citrus fruits play prominent roles in many dishes.

In her new book “Cucina Siciliana: Fresh and Vibrant Recipes from a Unique Mediterranean Island,” Ursula Ferrigno weaves it all into dishes that celebrate the flavors of this breathtaking isle. It’s a place where the pre-dinner hours are cherished for “aperitivo,” a time to unwind while sharing small bites and drinks with family and friends, such as the following recipe for

SICILY VADYM LAVRA - ADOBE STOCK

Potato and Ricotta Balls from the book. The snack is a hit with adults and children alike, but for more of the sea, try the Mussels and Bucatini Pasta. Bright flavors from lemons punctuate the salmoriglio sauce used here with chicken, but you can also create your own mix of flavors by using the sauce with other meats and seafood. —Mary Subialka

spring 2020 real food 41

MUSSELS AND BUCATINI PASTA (RECIPE PAGE 44)

42 real food spring 2020

POTATO AND RICOTTA BALLS

Potato and Ricotta Balls Polpette di patata e ricotta MAKES 8 SERVINGS

The Sicilian love of potatoes is well documented. The fertile soil from Mount Etna gives the potatoes grown there golden flesh and a very particular flavor. This recipe is extremely child-friendly as they love to discover the ricotta in the middle. I urge you to try it with other ingredients—ham, olives and onions are all good.

1 pound 2 ounces potatoes, scrubbed 2 extra large eggs, plus 2 extra egg yolks 11⁄2 cups freshly grated Parmesan cheese sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg a generous handful of flat-leaf parsley, freshly chopped 8 ounces ricotta cheese 11⁄4 cups dried breadcrumbs olive oil, for frying (optional)

1. Boil the potatoes in their skins, then peel and mash in a ricer.

Add the 2 egg yolks and the Parmesan cheese, salt, pepper, nutmeg and parsley and mix well.

2. In a separate bowl, mash the ricotta and season well.

3. Beat the whole eggs in a bowl. Place the breadcrumbs in a separate bowl.

4. Make little nests of the potato mixture in your palms and fill up the hollows with a spoonful of ricotta. Seal the mixture to form a ball (the balls should be golf-ball sized). Continue to make more balls until all the mixture is completely used.

5. Dip each ball first into the beaten egg and then into the breadcrumbs.

6. You can either fry the polpette until golden in olive oil or bake them in an oven preheated to 400°F for 15 minutes until golden brown. Serve warm or cold. They are excellent for picnics and family gatherings.

spring 2020 real food 43

Mussels and Bucatini Pasta

Chicken with Salmoriglio

Bucatini e cozza

Pollo alla salmoriglio

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

A simple but memorable combination enjoyed in [the Sicilian city of] Siracusa when the mussels are the sweetest in flavor. Long pasta is always favored for seafood sauces.

This salmoriglio sauce typifies Sicilian cuisine. It is wonderful with lamb, seafood and swordfish (and even steak, according to my husband). It is easy to make and have ready in the fridge. I grow a good deal of oregano especially for this dish.

or the Mussel Sauce F 10 ripe plum tomatoes 2 tablespoons olive oil 3 garlic cloves, chopped 2 teaspoons crushed dried chile pepper flakes 40 mussels, cleaned and debearded 1 stick celery, finely chopped 20 Gaeta olives, pitted 3 tablespoons dry white wine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste a handful of basil leaves, roughly torn

1 (4-pound) chicken (preferably organic), butterflied 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon fresh rosemary 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

NUTRITION

1 2½ ounces dried bucatini or linguine a generous handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1. For the sauce, immerse the tomatoes in a bowl of boiling water for 10 seconds to loosen the skins, then drain and peel away the skins. Chop the tomato flesh.

2. Heat the oil in a large, heavy-based sauté pan.

Add the garlic and chile flakes and sauté until lightly golden. Add the mussels, cover the pan with a tightfitting lid and cook 4 to 6 minutes until the shells have opened. Discard any mussels that remain closed.

3. Meanwhile, add the pasta to a large pan of rolling boiling salted water and cook until al dente.

4. Add the tomatoes, celery, olives and wine to the mussels and cook until the wine has evaporated, about 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper to taste and add the basil.

5. Drain the pasta and toss with the parsley and extra-virgin olive oil. Combine with the mussels and eat immediately.

POTATO & RICOTTA BALLS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 280; FAT 12g (sat. 6g); CHOL 131mg; SODIUM 430mg; CARB 27g; FIBER 3g; ADDED SUGARS 1g; PROTEIN 16g

44 real food spring 2020

For the Salmoriglio 1 garlic clove, crushed generous pinch sea salt 2 bunches of oregano (or 1 good handful) 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil freshly squeezed juice of 1 lemon freshly ground black pepper, to taste 2 lemons, cut into wedges, to serve

1. Place the chicken in a sealable plastic bag with the oil, rosemary and garlic. Season well with salt and pepper, seal the bag and massage the chicken through the bag to coat well. Marinate in the fridge for at least 2 hours. Bring the chicken back to room temperature before cooking. Transfer the chicken to a casserole dish.

2. Preheat the oven to 350°F. 3. Roast the chicken in the preheated oven until browned and the juices run clear when the thigh is pierced with a skewer, approximately 35 to 40 minutes.

4. For the salmoriglio, pound the garlic with a generous pinch of salt to a paste, add the oregano and chop to a paste, then add to a jug/ pitcher with the oil, lemon juice and black pepper. Serve with the chicken with lemon wedges for squeezing over. 

RECIPES AND PHOTOS FROM “CUCINA SICILIANA: FRESH AND VIBRANT RECIPES FROM A UNIQUE MEDITERRANEAN ISLAND”

BY URSULA FERRIGNO ©2019 REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION OF RYLAND PETERS & SMALL. PHOTOS BY DAVID MUNNS ©RYLAND PETERS & SMALL.

MUSSELS & BUCATINI PASTA: PER SERVING: CALORIES 739; FAT 25g (sat. 4g); CHOL 45mg; SODIUM 800mg; CARB 91g; FIBER 6g; ADDED SUGARS 0g; PROTEIN 36g

CHICKEN W. SALMORIGLIO: PER SERVING: CALORIES 514; FAT 35g (sat. 8g); CHOL 139mg; SODIUM 131mg; CARB 5g; FIBER 2g; ADDED SUGARS 0g; PROTEIN 44g

CHICKEN WITH SALMORIGLIO

spring 2020 real food 45

TOFU AND MUSHROOM HOTPOT (RECIPE PAGE 51)

46 real food spring 2020

Meals in the Middle

The flexitarian diet provides delicious vegetarian meals with plenty of options to add meat or fish as desired

W

hether it is for health concerns, ethical reasons or cost efficiency, many people are choosing to have meat take

a backseat in their diet. This could include embracing a diet that is vegetarian, vegan or pescatarian (which is vegetarian plus fish or seafood). According to a study conducted in 2018 by One Poll in conjunction with So Delicious Dairy Free, one in three Americans has reduced their meat intake by following a more moderate approach: the flexitarian diet.

A person subscribing to a flexitarian diet (or a semi-vegetarian diet, as it was originally called) normally consumes meatless meals

TOFU AND MUSHROOM HOTPOT CLARE WINFIELD

and dishes, but occasionally includes meat or fish as the urge arises. To help ease the transition to consuming less meat, check out books such as “The Flexitarian Cookbook: Adaptable Recipes for Part-Time Vegetarians and Vegans,” compiled by Julia Charles.

Simple adaptions to the recipes that follow make them suitable for vegans, vegetarians, pescatarians or meat lovers. It just depends on your craving and goals—or your guest list. —Katie Ballalatak

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CAULIFLOWER-STUFFED PACOS WITH TAHINI AND LIME YOGURT

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Cauliflower-Stuffed Pacos with Tahini and Lime Yogurt (VEGETARIAN) MAKES 6 SERVINGS, RECIPE BY LOUISE PICKFORD

Taco lovers, meet your new best friend—the “paco,” where a palm-sized pancake provides a perfect wrap for a Moroccan-inspired filling.

For the Filling 4½ cups cauliflower florets 1 (14-ounce) can chickpeas grated zest and freshly squeezed juice of 1 lime 1 teaspoon ras el hanout (See Cook’s Note) 1 tablespoon olive oil ½ red onion, thinly sliced ½ teaspoon white sugar 2 teaspoons white wine vinegar generous 1/2 cup Greek yogurt 1 tablespoon tahini salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste pomegranate seeds, for serving handful of fresh cilantro leaves, for serving

CAULIFLOWER-STUFFED PACOS IAN WALLACE

For the Paco Batter 1 cup ricotta cheese 3 tablespoons finely grated vegetarian Parmesan cheese (See Editor’s Note) 1 cup plus 1 tablespoon whole milk 1 tablespoon olive oil, plus extra for frying 2 extra large eggs, separated 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1½ teaspoons baking powder 1. Preheat the oven to 375°F. For the filling, cut any large cauliflower florets into bite-sized pieces and place in a roasting pan lined with baking parchment. Drain and rinse the chickpeas, then shake dry and add to the pan.

2. Combine the lime zest, ras el hanout (or substitute), olive oil, and a little salt and pepper in a small bowl and stir well. Add this spice paste along with 1 tablespoon of water to the cauliflower mixture and stir to coat the ingredients evenly.

3. Roast in the preheated oven for 20 minutes until the cauliflower is tender. After this, stir in 1 tablespoon lime juice and then turn the oven to its lowest setting to keep the filling warm.

4. Meanwhile, mix the red onion slices with the sugar, ½ teaspoon salt and the vinegar and set aside for 20 minutes. Drain well and then set aside.

5. Combine the yogurt with the tahini and remaining lime juice and season with salt and pepper. Set aside until needed.

6. To make the pacos, place the ricotta, vegetarian Parmesan, milk, oil and egg yolks in a bowl and whisk well, then gradually whisk in the flour and baking powder with some salt and pepper.

In a separate bowl, whisk the egg whites until just stiff, then fold through the batter until evenly combined.

7. When you are ready to serve, heat a pancake pan over a medium heat and brush with oil. Pour in 1 cup of the batter, allowing it to spread to about 5½ inches across. Cook for 2 minutes until golden and then flip and cook for a further 1 minute or so until evenly golden on both sides. Remove the pancake from the pan as soon as it’s ready, and keep warm while you cook the remaining batter in the same way, brushing the pan with oil as needed.

8. To serve, combine the cauliflower mixture with the pickled red onion, pomegranate seeds and cilantro in a bowl. Divide among the pancakes and drizzle over the yogurt tahini sauce.

Cook’s Note: Ras el hanout is a Lebanese blend of paprika, pepper, cumin, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom and nutmeg. For a substitute, try garam masala or just ground coriander.

Editor’s Note: Be aware when shopping for vegetarian cheeses— quite a few types of traditional cheeses have been started with rennet, an enzyme of animal origin, so check the label. Dairy-free vegan cheeses are often nut-based, so check those labels carefully as well if that is a concern. If you would like to make your own vegan cheese for these recipes, see the recipe on page 51.

VARIATION Socca with Spicy Cauliflower and Chickpeas (Vegan)

Substitute a coconut yogurt or soy cream in place of the Greek yogurt when preparing the tahini and lime dressing. Replace the pacos with these Socca Pancakes and serve as main recipe.

1 cup chickpea (garbanzo bean) flour ½ teaspoon salt 1¼ cups water olive oil, for frying

1. Put the chickpea (garbanzo bean) flour, salt and water into a large bowl and mix together with a whisk to make a smooth batter. Allow to stand at room temperature for at least 10 minutes.

2. Heat the olive oil in a small frying pan over a medium heat.

Add approximately ¼ to scant 1/3 cup of the socca batter to the warm pan. Swirl it around so that it covers the base of the pan.

Fry for about 2 to 3 minutes, until the batter begins to form bubbles. Flip with a spatula and cook for another 1 to 2 minutes on the other side.

3. Repeat with the remaining batter to make 4 small socca.

spring 2020 real food 49

MAC ‘N’ CHEESE WITH MUSHROOMS & HAM

Mac ‘n’ Cheese with Mushrooms & Ham (MEAT) MAKES 4 SERVINGS, RECIPE BY JENNY LINFORD

A hearty dish of macaroni cheese is a perennial favorite. Here, the creamy cheese sauce is combined with a tasty mixture of mushrooms and ham.

50 real food spring 2020

4. Heat the oil in a frying pan over a low heat. Add the leek and fry gently for 5 minutes until softened, without allowing it to brown. Add the mushrooms, increase the heat and fry briefly, stirring, until the mushrooms are lightly browned. Season with salt and pepper.

5. In a large bowl, mix together the cooked macaroni pasta, the mushroom mixture and the ham. Mix in the cheese sauce. Tip into a shallow baking dish. Sprinkle with the Parmesan cheese, breadcrumbs and pine nuts, if using. Bake in the preheated oven for 30 minutes until golden brown on top. Serve hot.

VARIATIONS Mac ‘n’ Cheese with Peas and Tuna (Pescatarian) Substitute the cooked ham with 1 (7-ounce) can of tuna in spring water (drained and flaked) and substitute ¾ cup frozen peas for the mushrooms and leek. Add the tuna and peas when combining the cheese sauce with the pasta and cook as main recipe but omit the pine nuts when finishing. Finish with a handful of freshly chopped flat-leaf parsley.

Spicy Mac ‘n’ Cheese with Sweetcorn and Peppers (Vegetarian) Omit the ham and mushrooms and add ¾ cup canned corn kernels, 2 jarred roasted red peppers cut into strips and 2 tablespoons finely chopped green jalapeño peppers. Add the sweetcorn and both of the peppers when combining the cheese sauce with the pasta, and cook as main recipe. Omit the pine nuts when finishing and dust with a little smoked paprika (optional). (See Editor’s Note page 49 regarding cheese selection.)

MAC ‘N’ CHEESE CLARE WINFIELD

2 cups macaroni or short penne pasta 3 tablespoons butter 1 bay leaf 5 tablespoons all-purpose flour 2½ cups whole milk 1¼ cups grated cheddar cheese 1 teaspoon whole-grain mustard freshly grated nutmeg 1 tablespoon sunflower oil 1 leek, finely chopped 7 ounces button mushrooms, halved 3½ ounces cooked ham, diced 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese 1/3 cup fresh breadcrumbs 1 tablespoon pine nuts (optional) salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook according to the package instructions, until slightly underdone; drain and set aside.

2. Melt the butter with the bay leaf in a heavy-based saucepan.

Mix in the flour and cook briefly, stirring. Gradually stir in the milk, mixing well with each addition. Cook, stirring, over a medium heat until the mixture thickens.

3. Stir in the cheddar cheese until melted. Stir in the mustard and season with nutmeg, salt and black pepper. Turn off the heat and set aside until needed.

Tofu and Mushroom Hotpot (VEGAN) MAKES 4 SERVINGS, RECIPE BY JENNY LINFORD

Mushrooms and tofu have an affinity as ingredients, and they are combined here in a fresh vegetarian take on a classic Chinese hotpot. Serve with steamed rice.

14 ounces firm tofu, well drained 8 dried shiitake mushrooms 1 tablespoon cornstarch 2 tablespoons vegetable oil ½ onion, chopped 1 leek, finely sliced 1-inch piece of ginger root, finely chopped 1 garlic clove, chopped ¼ head of Chinese leaf/napa cabbage, roughly chopped 3 tablespoons rice wine or Amontillado sherry pinch of Chinese five spice powder 5 ounces assorted fresh mushrooms (oyster, shiitake, eryngii), large ones halved 1 tablespoon light soy sauce pinch of sugar 1 teaspoon sesame seed oil salt, to taste chopped spring onion/scallion, to garnish steamed rice, for serving

1. Wrap the tofu in paper towels and place a weighty item (such as a heavy baking sheet) on top. Leave for at least 10 minutes to let the excess moisture drain.

2. Soak the dried shiitake mushrooms in 1 scant cup of hot water for 20 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer, reserving the soaking liquid. Trim and discard the tough stalks from the shiitake and cut them in half.

3. Cut the tofu into cubes and roll them in the cornstarch to coat. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a frying pan. Fry the tofu for 5 minutes over a medium-high heat, turning over during frying, until lightly browned on all sides.

4. Heat the remaining oil in a casserole dish or Dutch oven over a medium heat. Add the onion, leek, ginger and garlic and fry, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the Chinese leaf/napa cabbage and fry for a further 2 minutes. Mix in the rice wine or sherry and five spice powder and cook for 1 minute. Add the fried tofu, soaked shiitake and the fresh mushrooms.

5. Pour in the reserved shiitake soaking liquid, soy sauce and add the pinch of sugar.

Bring to a boil. Cover and cook over a medium heat for 15 minutes. Uncover and cook for 10 minutes, stirring gently now and then. Season with salt. Stir in the sesame seed oil.

6. Serve immediately, garnished with chopped spring onion/scallion.

NUTRITION

VARIATION Chicken and Tofu Hotpot with Mushrooms (Meat) 1. Reduce the quantity of tofu in the main recipe to 7 ounces. Put 2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts in a saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil over a high heat and once the liquid is boiling, reduce the heat to a simmer. Cook, uncovered, for about 10 to 15 minutes, until the chicken is cooked through.

2. Remove from the water with a slotted spoon, pat dry and shred. Add this shredded chicken to the hot pot 2 minutes before the end of cooking time to just heat through.

CAULIFLOWER-STUFFED PACOS W. TAHINI & LIME YOGURT: PER SERVING: CALORIES 406; FAT 19g (sat. 7g); CHOL 99mg; SODIUM 514mg; CARB 44g; FIBER 6g; ADDED SUGARS 0g; PROTEIN 16g

MAC ‘N’ CHEESE W. MUSHROOMS & HAM: PER SERVING: CALORIES 751; FAT 34g (sat. 17g); CHOL 90mg; SODIUM 1049mg; CARB 78g; FIBER 4g; ADDED SUGARS 0g; PROTEIN 33g

Vegan Parmesan MAKES 6 OUNCES

Traditional Parmesan uses animal rennet in the formation of the cheese as well as dairy milk, so this makes a good replacement.

1¼ cups unroasted cashews ¼ teaspoon garlic powder 4 tablespoons nutritional yeast 1 teaspoon salt

1. Place all the ingredients in a small food processor and blitz until it becomes a coarse powder.

Transfer to an airtight container and store in the cupboard for up to 1 week. This can be used in place of a sprinkle of Parmesan in any of the vegan or vegetarian recipes in this book that require it. 

RECIPES AND PHOTOS FROM “THE FLEXITARIAN COOKBOOK: ADAPTABLE RECIPES FOR PART-TIME VEGETARIANS” COMPILED BY JULIA CHARLES © 2019 REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION OF RYLAND PETERS & SMALL.

TOFU & MUSHROOM HOTPOT: PER SERVING: CALORIES 213; FAT 12g (sat. 2g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 177mg; CARB 18g; FIBER 4g; ADDED SUGARS 0g; PROTEIN 13g

spring 2020 real food 51

Food Fix

If food is the best medicine, award-winning chef Michael Symon offers a tasty prescription

BY TARA Q. THOMAS

S

ince Michael Symon appeared on the cover of Food & Wine magazine in 1998, his name has been synonymous with meaty Midwestern cooking. That year he was named a Best New Chef for his work at Lola, where he wowed Cleveland, Ohio, with beefcheek pierogi and crispy pig’s ears. He has since gone on to open seven more restaurants, including B Spot Burgers (dedicated to his “favorite B words”: burgers, bologna, brats and beer) in Cleveland, Roast steakhouse in

52 real food spring 2020

Detroit, and Mabel’s BBQ in Cleveland and at the Palms Casino in Las Vegas. An “Iron Chef ” winner, he has also hosted shows such as “Burgers, Brew & ’Que” and “Cook Like an Iron Chef.” And the last time he was featured in these pages, he had just come out with his book “Carnivore: 120 Recipes for Meat Lovers.”

So it was a little surprising when his newest book, “Fix It with Food,” landed on my desk, which included a photo of him smiling over

a plate of salmon with a tomato salad on the cover. The food looks delicious, but wait: Is this the same guy?

“I still eat meat!” he quickly reassures me when I call him to get the backstory. He has, however, had to make other changes. “I found out that I have rheumatoid arthritis when I was 25 and external lupus two years after that,” he begins to explain.

But he didn’t do anything about it for years. “When you’re young, you tend to just

grind through pain—and take a lot of Aleve,” Symon says. “As time passed, I began to realize that I have to find a different way to deal with this.” Rheumatoid arthritis, or RA, happens when your immune system attacks the lining of the membranes that surround your joints, causing swelling. Left unchecked, the inflammation takes a toll on the cartilage, bone, tendons and ligaments that form a joint. Lupus is another autoimmune disease that also causes inflammation and pain.

Both diseases can be seriously debilitating and even life-threatening if left untreated.

When he was nearing 50 last year, Symon decided to see what changes he could make simply by changing his diet. “I didn’t want to go on meds, so I researched everything that caused inflammation and everything that counters it,” he says.

There’s now a significant body of research around the power of diet to address inflammation, including the testimonies of several other chefs, such as Seamus Mullen in New York City and Catherine Ruehle in Fort Worth, who have also battled rheumatoid arthritis with diet.

Increasingly, public health organizations such as the Arthritis Foundation are also touting the links between food choices and symptoms. So it wasn’t too hard for him to come up with a roster of what he calls the “Top 10 Anti-Inflammatory Ingredients,” a list that includes walnuts and salmon (both packed with omega-3 fatty acids), ginger and turmeric (spices that hold compounds known to have anti-inflammatory properties), and mushrooms (a good source of selenium, a mineral shown to help prevent inflammation).

The hard part for Symon was figuring out what not to eat. Foods such as red meat, dairy, sugar and flour are frequently associated with inflammation, but, he says, “Everyone’s triggers are different; there’s not this blanket statement that if you have autoimmune disease, don’t eat these things.

You have to find what your triggers are.”

He decided to go on an elimination diet, even announcing it as a New Year’s resolution on “The Chew,” where he was a co-host. For

30 days, he cut out all alcohol, red meat, dairy, sugar and flour, a process that he admits was initially really hard. Peanut butter and bread had been go-to sustenance when he was running (or flying) between restaurants, and don’t even mention pizza to him.

However, the discomfort was short-lived.

By day five, he felt great, and by the end of the course, he estimates that 95 percent of his arthritic pain was gone—a change that made sticking with the plan entirely worth it. After he finished what he calls

“The Reset,” he gradually reintroduced foods one category at a time to see if any affected him negatively.

To get through the hard moments, Symon posted his progress and recipes on social media, using his fans’ interest to keep him honest and motivated. The response was fantastic. He says that during his seven years on “The Chew,” he had never received such support. People used his story to share tales of their own experiences, and they asked for yet more recipes based on Symon’s new diet.

spring 2020 real food 53

“‘Diet’ is the worst word in the English dictionary.

It’s so wrapped up and filled with guilt. Food is not the enemy.”

—Michael Symon

RECIPE AND PHOTOS EXCERPTED FROM “FIX IT WITH FOOD.” COPYRIGHT © 2019

BY MICHAEL SYMON. PHOTOGRAPHS COPYRIGHT © 2019 BY ED ANDERSON. PUBLISHED BY CLARKSON POTTER, AN IMPRINT OF PENGUIN RANDOM HOUSE, LLC.

54 real food spring 2020

The reaction drove home for him how hard it can be to figure out ways to make meals when you need to leave out an entire food category that you have been relying on for years. Thus, the inspiration for his next cookbook was born. Every chapter in “Fix It with Food” tackles each possible variation of an elimination diet, proposing recipes that Symon hopes will satisfy even those who crave the things that hurt them.

“It helps when you’re a chef,” he says, acknowledging that while the elimination diet was difficult for him, it’s pretty special to have the time, ability and skill set to explore possibilities in the kitchen. Still, it wasn’t enough to simply cut a category of food out of a recipe and call it a day—that’s using food as punishment instead of medicine for the body and soul. Symon knew he wouldn’t stick to a diet that made him feel cheated, and he knew others wouldn’t, either. “I wanted everything in the book to not leave you wanting or missing something,” he says, adding that the cookbook is not a diet book. “‘Diet’ is the worst word in the English dictionary. It’s so wrapped up and filled with guilt.

Food is not the enemy.”

“Fortunately, red meat wasn’t one of my triggers, or I think I would have had a very sad life,” he quips, though he also confesses that he wouldn’t have minded so much if it had been.

“Meat, believe it or not, is not so hard for me [to give up]: Now there are so many meat alternatives. I know that they’re not going to fully satisfy me, but almost.”

Plus, meat-free recipes are no problem for Symon. His wife, Liz, is a vegetarian, so he has been cooking meatless meals as a matter of course for years. In his cookbook, his hearty stews, casseroles, salads and soups offer plenty of flavor as well as protein via ingredients like spinach, beans, quinoa and flax seeds. (Given his reputation for burgers, you can bet he sweated over working out a vegetarian version he was proud to put his name on. His offering gets its moist meatiness from quinoa, pumpkin seeds and black beans.)

Surprisingly, processed sugar was a trigger for Symon. He hadn’t even realized he was ingesting much sugar—he doesn’t have much of a sweet tooth and doesn’t eat sugary

cereals and snack foods—but his sensitivity alerted him to how much hidden sugar there is in everyday ingredients such as ketchup, jarred pasta sauce and packaged bread. And ingredient labels don’t make sugar easy to sniff out: The FDA allows it in some 61 forms, including corn syrup, barley malt, dextrose and trehalose, and that number doesn’t even include artificial sweeteners and sugar substitutes.

Experimentation led him to discover that his body can handle small amounts of less refined sugars like maple syrup and honey as well as certain types of flour. Refinement is often the issue in gluten intolerance as well, he believes. “If milled and handled properly, flour is not bad for most people,” he says. “Bleached, enriched bromated flour is bad for everyone.

When you strip all the digestive properties out of wheat, of course it’s not going to make people feel good.”

If processed sugar is also your trigger, the Sugar-Free Fix chapter lays out plenty of alternative ways to add sweetness, whether it’s a bit of honey in the chocolate chip cookies (which are also gluten free), maple in the chocolate mousse, or chopped dates in a fruit crisp.

Another chapter in the book is flour free.

Symon thinks that by switching to products made with organic whole-grain, stone-milled flour, much of the discomfort people feel would disappear, but he still foregoes flour in the chapter because it remains a trigger for so many people. These recipes weren’t too difficult for him to come up with except, perhaps, a version of Eggplant Parmesan that would satisfy his mother, a Greek-Sicilian. (He named Angeline, his restaurant in Atlantic City’s Borgata Hotel, after her.) Lasagna, on the other hand, was easy: He took his mom’s recipe—so good, he says, it would be his “deathbed meal”—and played up the Greek influence, creating a rich, juicy casserole with potatoes in place of noodles.

Dairy turned out to be another trigger and the most difficult food group for Symon to part with. “I miss cheese terribly,” he bemoans. “To me, there is nothing better than creamy Greek yogurt, stinky cheeses and butterfat-filled ice cream.” He spent lots of time exploring

alternatives, building richness into dishes with canned coconut milk or a homemade oat milk that’s super simple and affordable to make.

Plus, its earthy, nutty flavors meld so well in dishes like his mushroom-barley soup and creamy mashed celery root that even milkdrinkers will want to try it.

Symon also developed a dairy-free substitute for Parmesan cheese, which he makes by the bucketful so that he can add a dollop to anything that might appreciate an umami boost. “It doesn’t taste exactly like real Parmigiano-Reggiano, but it gives you that salty happiness,” he says. Vastly more affordable than the real thing and super simple to make, it’s worth making some to store in the fridge regardless of your dietary needs. It’s a powerful secret weapon for enhancing flavors in recipes of all sorts.

All that said, if he’s out with friends in the middle of summer and they go for ice cream, Symon admits that he’s going to indulge.

And he’s okay with that knowledge. “I know the next day I’m going to feel like shit, but for me it’s enlightening to know the cause,” he says. “It’s like with wine: You might be able to have two glasses of wine and feel fine, but if you have four, you know you’re going to feel it the next day. It’s the same with food. For me, it’s really empowering to know what causes what I feel.”

Symon realizes that not everyone is like him: You may not care whether or not you have any food sensitivities, and you may or may not have time to think so hard about what you’re eating. He only hopes that all his research and recipe development will help anyone who wants to try The Reset or for those who simply want to switch things up. “If you just want to eliminate some dairy from your life, you can.

Nothing in the book is going to make you feel cheated,” he repeats. “As a chef, that was my biggest thing. I would rather suffer than eat shitty food.”

If you’d like to put that claim to the test, here’s his version of mac and cheese—a creamy, saucy pasta cooked right on the stovetop so that you can have it on the table in less than an hour. Because food isn’t everything; your back and knees need a break, too. 

Roasted Vegetable Mac and Cheese MAKES 4 SERVINGS

kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper ½ pound rigatoni 1 zucchini, quartered lengthwise and sliced crosswise to ½-inch-thick pieces 1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided 2 garlic cloves, minced ¼ cup unbleached, nonbromated flour 2½ cups unsweetened cashew or oat milk Dairy-Free Parmesan (See Cook’s Note) 1 tablespoon hot sauce, plus more to taste ¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, plus more for garnish 1. Preheat the oven to 500°F. 2. Add 3 tablespoons of salt to a large pot of water and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook until just al dente, about 1 minute less than the package directions. Drain and set aside.

3. In a large bowl, toss together the zucchini, tomatoes and 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Season with a pinch of salt and a twist of black pepper. Arrange in a single layer on a sheet pan and roast in the hot oven until the vegetables are nicely charred, about 10 minutes. Set the sheet pan aside.

4. Place a large heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat. Add the remaining 4 tablespoons olive oil and heat to shimmering, then add the garlic. Cook until aromatic, about 2 minutes. Add the flour and whisk to combine until a sandy mixture forms, about 1 minute. Slowly add the cashew milk while whisking until the mixture is smooth. Cook until the sauce comes to a simmer and thickens, whisking the entire time, about 5 minutes.

5. Add the Dairy-Free Parmesan and hot sauce to the skillet and whisk to combine.

Season with a pinch of salt and a twist of black pepper. Add the roasted vegetables, drained rigatoni and parsley and stir to combine. Taste and adjust for seasoning, adding salt, pepper and hot sauce as needed. Garnish with parsley and serve.

Cook’s Note: For the Dairy-Free Parmesan: In a blender or food processor, pulse 1 cup raw cashews, ¼ cup nutritional yeast, ½ teaspoon garlic powder and ¾ teaspoon kosher salt until the mixture has the consistency of fine crumbs and resembles freshly grated Parmesan cheese, about 10 times. Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 3 weeks. Makes 1¼ cups.

spring 2020 real food 55

pairings

Fruit Cocktail

Elevate your brunch beverage options with a wine-infused fruity cocktail

BY MARY SUBIALKA

T

ake the classic juice pairing to the next level with the Honey Belle Wine Cooler. The Riesling wine, elderflower liqueur and orange and pineapple juices pair well with ham, pork and other savory brunch items.

Plus, with its generous ratio of juice, this cocktail can complement the sweeter side of the meal including scones, pancakes and French toast, making a go-to versatile drink to serve for brunch and beyond.

Honey Belle Wine Cooler MAKES 6 SERVINGS RECIPE COURTESY OF THE FLORIDA DEPARTMENT OF CITRUS

Prepare a pitcher of cocktails and guests can help themselves.

12 ounces Florida tangerine or orange juice 9 ounces St. Germain Elderflower Liqueur or elderflower cordial 6 ounces pineapple juice 6 limes, juiced (about 1 ounce juice each) 12 ounces dry Riesling wine (about half of a 750-ml bottle) 6 lime twists, for garnish 1. Combine all ingredients over fresh ice in a pitcher large enough to hold 45 ounces and stir. Garnish each serving with a lime twist. î Ž

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

56 real food spring 2020

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