Lunds and Byerly's REAL FOOD Fall 2014

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GADO GADO (RECIPE PAGE 55)

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FALL 2014

Vegetable VISIONARY FREE

Mollie Katzen’s influential Moosewood Cookbook celebrates its 40th birthday with a special anniversary edition GLOBAL ROUNDS: Meatballs’ popularity spans the world SOUP’S ON: Enjoy autumn’s bounty one spoonful at a time UNDER PRESSURE: Quick appetizing meals from the pressure cooker

y LOVE our

HOM H O E OM HOME

everyday!

Capturing the spirit of C Log Home Living “We W worked We w with Lake Country Builders in 1999 and now again agai on our log home. They are fantastic to work with and handle everything perfectly.

People often mention horror stories for remodeling and working with contractors. We have had nothing of the sort. We tell people we are remodeling and they say it must be tough "babysitting" the process and contractor.

With Lake Country Builders it has been as smooth as silk!

We would recommend them to anyone at any time.” ~ Log home owners

LakeCountryBuilders.com om x 952 952.474.7121 474 7121 x DESIGNING AND BUILDING IN THREE LOCAT LOCATIONS A IONS AT SINCE 1976

BRAINERD LAKES AREA I TWIN CITIES I HAYWARD, ARD WISCONSIN

Please visit our FALL PARADE OF HOMES REMODELORS SHOWCASE

September 26 – 28, 2014

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“The Thrill is Building ” ™

Making A Difference Physician changes lives inside and outside the clinic.

CONGRATULATIONS to Dr. Charles Crutchfield, III, on his selection as a ‘Top Doctor’ every year since 2000! Dr. Crutchfield has also been recognized by “Minnesota Physician” as one of the 100 most influential health care leaders in Minnesota. “I want all my patients to look good and feel great with beautiful skin,” says Charles E. Crutchfield III, M.D. “When you come to Crutchfield Dermatology, the emphasis is on quality, in-depth skincare knowledge and service. That’s what really sets us apart.”

A long list of awards and honors is evidence that Dr. Crutchfield is good at what he does. Recently selected by NBC News/The Grio as one of the 100 most influential African-Americans in the U.S., he is humbled by the recognition he receives and shares the credit. “I realize that no one gets where they are without the help of many people. I’m now at a point in my career where I can give back.”

Dr. Crutchfield’s professional accomplishments are matched by generous community outreach and support. His commitment to the community runs deep, especially for students – through scholarships, textbook donations, and mentorship. A Clinical Professor of Dermatology at the University of Minnesota Medical School, he is a mentor in the University of Minnesota’s Future Doctors of America program, where undergraduate students of color shadow Dr. Crutchfield during patient appointments. They learn the art of medicine and are introduced to a wide variety of opportunities. Dr. Crutchfield recently received the Minnesota Medical Association Foundation’s Minority Affairs Meritorious Service Award as an outstanding mentor dedicated to students within the program. His medical students at the University of Minnesota Medical School have honored him three times as Teacher of the Year, and Dr. Crutchfield’s preceptorships through Harlem’s Touro College of Medicine so impressed two medical student recipients that they relocated to the Twin Cities to practice.

Dr. Crutchfield’s definition of community enthusiastically includes the Minnesota Twins, and his love of baseball occasionally surfaces in his philanthropic work. During his residency, he learned a hospice patient and fellow baseball fan dreamed of meeting Kirby Puckett. He arranged the meeting, and the Mayo Clinic acknowledged his kindness with the Karis Humanitarian Award.

When Twins player Bert Blyleven accepted a dare to eat night crawlers in exchange for a hundred dollar donation to Parkinson’s research, Dr. Crutchfield upped the ante to a thousand dollars, challenging other medical clinics to join him. His challenge raised almost $15,000 for the Parkinson’s Association of Minnesota.

Dr. Crutchfield also donates to the Twins Community Fund to build ballparks for children in the inner city. “Sports give children focus and a sense of personal achievement,” he explains. “Many sports require a substantial investment, but baseball is financially accessible. You give a kid a glove, a ball, and a bat, and they are

good to go.”

Remembering school days when he struggled with dyslexia himself, Crutchfield serves as a Hero Benefactor for the Reading Center, stepping in when available scholarships aren’t sufficient to cover the number of hopeful students. For the High school for Recording Arts, founded in Saint Paul to encourage at-risk youth to finish high school by linking lyric writing to English and marketing to mathematics, Dr. Crutchfield contributes funding and scholarships. Dr. Crutchfield provides substantial support, including financial contributions, and he encourages his staff to participate in breast cancer, Alzheimer’s, and Parkinson’s walks. He has also been given the “Patriotic Employer Award” from the Minnesota National Guard for his support of our troops and the “Gold Triangle Award” from the American Academy of Dermatology for promoting health-care awareness in underserved areas. He offered free skin and scar treatments for the survivors of the tragic Minneapolis 35W bridge collapse and received the first “Physician Health Care Hero” by Medica, Twin Cities Business and KARE11 for “Outstanding contributors to the quality of health care in Minnesota.”

His philanthropy also extends to supporting Camp Discovery for children with skin diseases. For over a decade, Dr. Crutchfield has been an active supporter and nominator, dedicating all royalties from the dermatology textbook he coauthored to the program.

Once a child is accepted into the camp, the entire experience is covered by donations. “As a child, I loved going to camp. But as a dermatologist working with children with skin diseases, I see so many kids ashamed to go because they are afraid to expose themselves to being teased. Camp Discovery is a place where kids can be kids again.”

Dr. Crutchfield’s effort extends to establishing a lectureship at the University of Minnesota honoring his parents, Susan Crutchfield M.D., then the youngest ever and first African-American female graduate of the medical school, and Charles Crutchfield, Sr., M.D., the first practicing African- American Obstetrician-Gynecologist in the Twin Cities who went on to deliver almost 10,000 babies. He has also co-authored a children’s book for “little leaguers” extolling the virtues of being sun-safe and using sun Protection. Little Charles Hits a Home Run is available on Amazon.com, Kindle, Nook and iPad. Proceeds benefit the Twins Community Fund and Camp Discovery.

His contributions continue. His latest medical endeavor is an initiative requiring auto manufacturers, cell phone companies, and insurance companies to equip cars with technology disabling a phone’s texting function while driving. Visit crutchfielddermatology.com/safetexting for more information. For Dr. Crutchfield, giving back has become a way of life.

Crutchfield Dermatology • 1185 Town Centre Drive • Suite 101 • Eagan • 651-209-3600 www.CrutchfieldDermatology.com

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Minnesota’s Premiere Show For Home Improvement Ideas November 14-16, 2014 • Minneapolis Convention Center www.MidwestHomeShow.com

Show Highlights – Dr. Lori from the Discovery Channel’s hit TV show Auction Kings will present Dr. Lori’s Antiques Appraisal Comedy Show. Bring your antiques for a FREE appraisal!

– Find the best trends in remodeling, home design, home improvement, entertaining and more.

– Bargain hunters will delight in the return of an on-site discount sale. Repurposed treasures will be available for purchase from building community exhibitors.

Admission & Show Times FREE TICKET FRIDAY, November 14th 1 – 6 PM Saturday, November 15th 10 AM – 6 PM | Sunday, November 16th 1 1 AM – 5 PM Adults (18+) are $4, ages 17 and under FREE

For more information visit MidwestHomeShow.com

the Maverick

now playing at wusthofedge.com Chef Ann Kim Pizzeria Lola, Hello Pizza, Minneapolis, MN

ears of knives

Made in Germany Solingen

contents

real food fall 2014

Features 18 Maple for All Seasons Sap that’s both sweet and savory.

BY TERESA MARRONE

26 Soup’s On Autumn’s bounty by the spoonful.

BY MARIE SIMMONS

36 Under Pressure Appetizing meals, fast and easy.

BY LORNA SASS

42 Global Rounds Meatball recipes from around the world.

BY BRUCE AIDELLS

52 Vegetable Visionary Mollie Katzen’s Moosewood Cookbook taught a generation how to cook.

BY TARA Q. THOMAS

Departments 4 Bites Gluten-free pasta options.

RECIPE BY ROBIN ASBELL

6 Kitchen Skills Revel in all things tomato.

BY JASON ROSS

8 Contributors 17 Ingredient Make the most of the short but sweet quince season.

BY AMIE VALPONE

56 Pairings A match with tripel ale.

BY MARY SUBIALKA

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45

Our Cover

Gado Gado (page 55).

This spread: Posole with Chorizo, Pepitas, and Cotijja page 34).

Photographs by Terry Brennan

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PUBLISHER JAMIE FLAWS EDITOR JOEL SCHETTLER SENIOR ART DIRECTOR JAMIE JOHNSON DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION SERVICES JONATHON REYNOLDS SENIOR EDITOR MARY SUBIALKA PRODUCTION PROJECT MANAGER CINDY MARKING ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES MINDY LOOYENGA AND KELLY WIEBE

VOLUME 10, NUMBER 3 Real Food magazine is published quarterly by Greenspring Media, LLC, 706 Second Ave. S. Suite 1000, Minneapolis, MN 55402, 612.371.5800, Fax 612.371.5801. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Real Food is exclusively operated and owned by Greenspring Media, LLC. Printed in the USA. www.realfoodmag.com

The pages between the covers of this magazine (except for any inserted material) are printed on paper made from wood fiber that was procured from forests that are sustainably managed to remain healthy, productive, and biologically diverse. Printed with soy-based inks.

summer 2014 real food 3

bites

4 real food fall 2014

Pasta Reimagined A passion for pasta can be kept alive with today’s improved gluten-free options.

I

f you cut out gluten, often you cut out your favorite pasta dishes or may have found ready-made glutenfree pasta lacking. But, luckily options have improved recently as more people are seeking out gluten-free products or ways to make their own. In a new cookbook, Gluten-Free Pasta, author Robin Asbell notes pasta is so beloved that it's one of the most grieved foods that a gluten-free diet takes off the plate. It's our passion for pasta that fuels the search for great alternatives—and she’s been on the case for some time. In the 1980s and ’90s when she started baking wheat-free items, all she could get was gritty brown rice flour, some starches, and one brand of frozen bread that resembled a sponge. Today’s options have opened up a range of possibilities including dried white and brown rice pastas, buckwheat, quinoa, and corn pastas and even refrigerated and frozen fresh pasta. If you want to make your own, the book includes a variety of recipes from classic to vegetable. “I’ve been finding that people really respond to the fact that there are veggie noodles in there—made from zucchini, sweet potatoes, cabbage, etc.,” says Asbell. All the recipes can be made with dried gluten-free pasta, (including the one featured below,) and “the recipes are all just really tasty with regular or whole wheat pasta, too,” she says. She also offers tips for finding gluten-free sauces and other ingredients.

Whether you’ve been diagnosed with celiac disease, a wheat sensitivity, or find you feel better eating gluten-free foods, you can stop grieving, notes Asbell. You will eat pasta again.

—Mary Subialka

Chinese Beef and Broccoli Noodles MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

If you were missing a good stir-fry over noodles, here is the familiar beef and broccoli, made gluten-free and with much less oil than the takeout version. Homemade Chinese food is so easy to make gluten free, and you can use better quality meats and veggies than your favorite hole-in-the-wall that first hooked you on beef and broccoli!

1 8 2 1 2 2 1 ¼ 1 2 1 1 2 2

pound broccoli or broccolini, cut into large florets ounces gluten-free linguine or spaghetti tablespoons gluten-free oyster sauce, such as Wok Mei tablespoon wheat-free tamari teaspoons granulated sugar tablespoons rice wine teaspoon rice vinegar cup chicken stock teaspoon toasted sesame oil teaspoons cornstarch tablespoon peanut or canola oil pound steak, such as top sirloin, sliced tablespoons minced fresh ginger garlic cloves, minced

made food than

PHOTO AND RECIPE FROM GLUTENFREE PASTA BY ROBIN ASBELL, PHOTOGRAPHY BY JASON VARNEY; COPYRIGHT © 2014; PUBLISHED BY RUNNING PRESS BOOK PUBLISHERS

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil for the broccoli and pasta. When it comes to a boil, blanch the broccoli by dropping it into the boiling water for 1 minute. Scoop out the broccoli with a slotted spoon, transfer to a colander, and rinse with cold water. Drain. Bring the water back to a boil and cook the pasta, checking for doneness 3 to 4 minutes before the package directs. Check often, and when it reaches al dente, drain immediately.

2. In a cup, mix the oyster sauce, tamari, sugar, rice wine, rice vinegar, chicken stock, and sesame oil, then whisk in the cornstarch.

3. Heat a wok or heavy skillet over high heat until hot, then add the peanut oil and swirl the pan to coat. Toss in the beef and sear briefly on one side before turning. When the outsides of the strips are browned but the insides are still pink, add the ginger and garlic and stir for a few seconds, then add the oyster sauce mixture. Stir constantly until thickened, about a minute, then add the broccoli and toss to heat through and coat with sauce. Add the noodles to the pan and toss to coat. Serve immediately. ■

fall 2014 real food 5

kitchen skills

Tomato Time Nature’s juicy, delicious tomatoes yield a harvest of possibilities.

BY JASON ROSS

A

ll winter long, we pine for the earthy flavor and fresh intensity of summer tomatoes. And now, the final round of tomato season is upon us. It’s the perfect time to revel in all things tomato. Here are two classic ways to enjoy tomatoes—a light, fresh tomato salsa and a ruby red sauce based on French technique.

Tricks of the Trade Coring Tomatoes Grip a paring knife down toward the tip along the back of the blade. Plunge the tip of the knife into the tomato just outside the core. Hold the knife with your thumb centered on and pushed against the core. Rotate the tomato, holding the knife in place to draw a circle around the core, cutting it free.

Peeling Tomatoes To peel tomatoes, assemble a large pot of boiling water, a bowl of ice water, a paring knife, and a slotted spoon.

Remove the core from the tomatoes, and using a paring knife, score the skin of the tomatoes, marking an X on the bottom. This is where you will grab the skin to peel it later.

Place the tomatoes into the boiling water a few at a time and blanch briefly, about 1 minute depending on ripeness (the riper they are, the less time they need in the boiling water). The trick is to cook the tomatoes just enough to loosen the skins without turning them to mush. Using a slotted spoon, remove tomatoes and drop into the ice water. Grab the skin with your thumb and the side of a paring knife and pull to remove. If skin is stubborn, return to the boiling water to loosen further.

Using Sachets for Flavor A sachet functions much like a tea bag; it adds flavor by steeping herbs and spice in a hot liquid and is easy to remove and discard. To make a sachet, lay out a piece of cheesecloth and add spices and herbs (often thyme, black peppercorns, bay leaves, and parsley stems). Wrap the cheesecloth into a pouch and tie with butcher’s twine. Alternatively, create a bouquet garni by tying the sturdy greens from a leek around the seasonings.

PHOTOS BY TERRY BRENNAN; FOOD STYLED BY LARA MIKLASEVICS

6 real food fall 2014

MAKES 4 CUPS

Easy to throw together, this vibrant, peak-season salsa lets tomatoes shine. As with most simple recipes, taste testing and seasoning adjustments are crucial to ensure the right balance of flavors.

1 1 1 1 1½

jalapeño pepper, seeded and minced tablespoon finely minced red onion teaspoon salt, or more to taste tablespoon lime juice, or more to taste pounds tomatoes (about 4 large or 6 medium), cored and cut into ¼-inch dice ¼ cup minced cilantro

1. In a non-reactive bowl, combine jalapeño, onion, salt, and lime juice. Allow onion and jalapeño to sit; the salt and acid in the lime juice will soften and balance the intense and sometimes harsh flavors of raw onion and peppers.

2. Core and cut tomatoes into ¼-inch dice. Mince cilantro.

Gently stir into salsa and taste for seasoning, acidity, and heat level, adding salt and lime juice to taste. Fresh salsa is best eaten the same day.

Fresh from the Garden Tomato Sauce MAKES 2 QUARTS

Sauce tomate is considered one of the mother sauces of French cuisine. It employs cured pork and chicken broth to create a rich tomato sauce. The extra flavor leaves diners wondering what makes it so good.

Sauce 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 slice bacon (optional) 1 medium onion, diced 1 medium carrot, diced 1 medium stalk celery, diced 2 cloves garlic, chopped 1 6-ounce can tomato paste 8 pounds fresh tomatoes, (about 24 large or 32 medium) peeled, cored, and chopped 1 tablespoon salt 1 tablespoon sugar 3 quarts chicken broth Sachet 2 bay leaves 1 sprig fresh thyme (or ¼ teaspoon dry) 5 black peppercorns ¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper 1. In a large, heavy-bottomed stockpot over medium heat, add oil and sauté bacon until it begins to release some fat but does not turn brown. Add onion, carrot, celery, and garlic, and sauté 3 to 4 minutes, until vegetables soften but do not brown.

2. Stir in tomato paste and cook 4 to 5 minutes, until aroma intensifies and color shifts to brick red. Add tomatoes and stir in salt and sugar. Cook 15 to 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, as liquid evaporates and flavor intensifies.

3. Add broth and sachet, bring liquid to a gentle simmer, and cook, uncovered, 1 to 1½ hours. Sauce should have a thickened consistency; cook longer if necessary to reach desired consistency. Remove and discard sachet and bacon.

Add salt to taste.

4. For a finer sauce, purée using an immersion blender, food processor, food mill, or blender. Using a spatula or ladle, push through a heavyweight strainer into a bowl. Store sauce in sealed containers in refrigerator up to 1 week or in freezer up to 6 months. ■

NUTRITION

Fresh Tomato Salsa

SALSA: PER SERVING (2 tbsp.): CALORIES 5 (1 from fat); FAT 0g (sat. 0g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 76mg; CARB 1g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 0g

SAUCE: PER SERVING (1/2 c.): CALORIES 78 (22 from fat); FAT 3g (sat. 0g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 1186mg; CARB 13g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 3g

fall 2014 real food 7

contributors

Marie Simmons

Bruce Aidells

Lorna Sass

Amie Valpone

Terry Brennan

Jason Ross

Tara Q. Thomas

Lara Miklasevics

has created recipes and written food articles for dozens of magazines, including Food & Wine, Cooking Light Light, and Eating Well. For more than 15 years, she wrote a monthly column for Bon Appétit, as well as a weekly Appétit column for the Los Angeles Times Syndicate. She is the author of more than 20 cookbooks, including Fig Heaven, The Amazing World of Rice, Things Cooks Love, and her latest, Taste of Honey. She lives in Eugene, Oregon.

Photograph by Luca Travoto.

is an award-winning photographer who has worked for General Mills, Pillsbury, Budweiser, Target, and many national advertising agencies. “My real passion lies in editorial work,” he says, “in which a photographer’s freedom to create a story or look through the photograph is much greater.”

8 real food summer 2014

founded Aidells Sausage Company in California in 1983. He left the company in 2002 to pursue food writing. A regular contributor to Bon Appétit and Fine Cooking, he has also shared his expertise in several cookbooks, including The Complete Meat Cookbook and his latest, The Great Meat Cookbook: Everything You Need to Know to Buy and Cook Today’s Meat. He is a host of Good Cookin’ with Bruce Aidells on livewellnetwork.com and invites you to join him there and on his Good Cookin’ page on Facebook.

is a culinary instructor at Le Cordon Bleu in Minnesota and has worked as a consultant to help develop menus at many Twin Cities restaurants.

He grew up in New York City but now calls St. Paul home, where he lives with his wife and two young daughters.

Affectionately known as “the Queen of Pressure Cooking,” Lorna Sass has made it her mission to create a healthy new definition of “fast food” by using the pressure cooker. A James Beard award-winning author of fifteen cookbooks, her titles include Cooking Under Pressure, Great Vegetarian Cooking Under Pressure, and Pressure Perfect Perfect.

gave up cooking professionally to become a culinaryobsessed writer. She’s been a senior editor at Wine & Spirits for the past decade and writes regularly for the Denver Post, Culture, Gastronomica, and Gourmet. com. The Brooklyn, New York–based mom of two is also author of The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Wine Basics.

is the editor-in-chief of TheHealthyApple.com; she is a Manhattan-based personal chef, culinary nutritionist, professional recipe developer, food photographer and writer specializing in simple gluten-free and dairy-free ‘clean’ recipes for the home cook. Amie’s work appears on Martha Stewart Fox News Health, Stewart, WebMD The Huffington WebMD, Post The Food Network Post, Network, Glamour magazine, Clean Eating magazine, SHAPE magazine, Prevention magazine, PBS, and many others.

began her food career on the other side of the camera, cooking at the renowned New French Café. Today her work as a stylist is in demand at corporations including Heinz, Target, and General Mills, as well as with many magazines. She prides herself on using her experience as a chef to make food as appealing on the page as it is on the plate.

Lunds and Byerly’s welcome LUNDS

Bloomington: 952-896-0092 Edina: 952-926-6833 Minneapolis Downtown: 612-379-5040 Northeast: 612-548-3820 Uptown: 612-825-2440 Minnetonka: 952-935-0198 Navarre: 952-471-8473 Plymouth: 763-268-1624 Prior Lake: 952-440-3900 Richfield: 612-861-1881 St. Paul Downtown: 651-999-1600 Highland Park: 651-698-5845 Wayzata: 952-476-2222

BYERLY’S

Burnsville: 952-892-5600 Chanhassen: 952-474-1298 Eagan: 651-686-9669 Eden Prairie: 952-525-8000 Edina: 952-831-3601 Golden Valley: 763-544-8846 Maple Grove: 763-416-1611 Ridgedale: 952-541-1414 Roseville: 651-633-6949 St. Cloud: 320-252-4112 St. Louis Park: 952-929-2100 St. Paul: 651-735-6340 Woodbury: 651-999-1200

SHOP ONLINE LundsandByerlys.com

FOOD QUESTIONS? Get answers from our FoodE Experts.

952-548-1400 Monday–Saturday, 10 a.m.–6 p.m.

CLASSES & EVENTS Cooking Classes • 952-253-3409 Catering • 952-897-9800

REAL FOOD COMMENTS Aaron Sorenson • 952-927-3663

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GROWING TOGETHER

T

h i s ye a r we’re h on ore d to celebrate our 75th anniversary.

It’s humbling to know we’ve been a piece of the fabric of the greater Twin Cities community since 1939, when my grandfather, Russell T. Lund, opened our first store on Lake Street in Minneapolis.

His merchant talents and relentless drive to innovate were important in building our successful foundation.

Equally important were his humble heart and compassionate soul. And he made sure to surround himself with many others who shared those same qualities.

During the past 75 years, more than 50,000 people have been a part of our company’s extended family. Because of their own merchant talents, passion for service, and compassion for one another, we’ve carried on and further defined our collective vision for what a grocery store can and should be for the community.

Today, we’re celebrating 75 years of each other—75 years of supporting the communities we serve, and 75 years of innovation, dedication, and passion.

Our story is about growing together as people—coworkers, customers, and community and business partners alike.

There truly are countless stories that have defined us during the past 75 years, and many of you have already taken time to share your great stories at LundsandByerlys.com/75years. For every story shared, we’re donating $7.50 to Second Harvest Heartland to help those in need. I encourage you to visit the site and be sure to “like” your favorite stories through the end of August.

We’ll be awarding a $750 gift card to the employee and customer story that each receives the most “likes.”

S om e s tor i e s that always quickly come to mind for me are the heartwarming acts of compassion and c a r e t h a t h av e been shown by our employees to their Tres peers during times Lund of need. From providing shelter to assisting someone with their monthly bills, these unselfish displays of generosity and kindness never cease to amaze and inspire me.

As an additional layer of support to our employees who may be experiencing unexpected financial hardships, we have created a Lunds and Byerly’s Family Assistance Fund as another resource that may help them get through difficult moments in their lives.

To ensure we’re providing you with a sensational shopping experience, it’s critically important that we have an equally sensational working experience.

We’re working hard on both fronts every day to continue to be a retailer that is deeply committed to not only feeding families, but also nourishing lives.

Thanks to our family of employees, customers, and community and business partners, we really do have an amazing story to share about growing together. We’re 75 years young and look forward to serving the community for the next 75 years and beyond.

Sincerely,

Tres Lund President and CEO

LundsandByerlys.com real food 9

Lunds and Byerly’s

what’s in store

WHITE GIRL SALSAS White Girl Salsas are handcrafted and combine zesty flavor with a spiciness that is just right. These salsas are all natural, non GMO, gluten free, dairy free, and made with no preservatives. White Girl Salsa is the only salsa brand specializing in tomatillo salsas. Try smokey chipotle, cranberry-mango, or mild tomatillo.

Did you know? Founder Julie Nirvelli wowed her Hispanic friends with her version of zesty tomatillo salsa. After licking the bowl clean, they lovingly dubbed it “White Girl Salsa” and the name stuck!

QUINN POPCORN This is microwave popcorn reinvented! When their son Quinn was born, Kristy and Coulter set out on a mission to clean up this snack-time favorite. Made with non-GMO corn, their organic popcorn contains no preservatives or artificial ingredients and comes in compostable, paper Pure Pop Bags.

Tip: Don’t just trust the “popcorn” button. It works for some, but not all microwaves are created equal. By pulling out the susceptor and associated chemicals from the bag, this popcorn is more sensitive to the microwave used.

JIMTOWN FRESH CONDIMENTS These fresh and flavor-packed spreads make easy, instant hors d’oeuvres that are perfect partners to meats and cheeses. They’re also great to use as marinades or condiments, tossed on pasta or pizza, spread on sandwiches, or stirred into vinaigrettes and salads.

Tip: Enjoy their robust Romesco spread with seafood, roasted meats, and grilled vegetables. You’ll love the combination of toasted almonds, smoked and roasted peppers, extra virgin olive oil, and fresh garlic.

10 real food fall 2014

Lunds and Byerly’s what’s in store

VERI ORGANIC SODAS These certified-organic sodas are made with the best ingredients and are lightly carbonated so you can really taste the flavor. Veri Organic Sodas have only 60 calories per can and are sweetened with organic fruit juices, organic cane sugar, and organic stevia. They’re delicious, refreshing, and better for you.

Did you know? The name Veri comes from the Latin word “veritas,” which means truth. There is nothing fake in these sodas, including no harsh sweetness and no lingering aftertastes.

LUNDS & BYERLYS MEYER LEMON & BLOOD ORANGE PEPPER JELLY

CITYKID JAVA With CityKid Java, you don’t have to compromise your taste buds to satisfy your conscience. They use only premium, 100 percent Arabica coffee beans sourced from growers using sustainable agricultural practices. CityKid Java, located in Minneapolis, ensures their coffees are also roasted in the most environmentally friendly ways.

Did you know? They’re all about the kids. CityKid Java invests in proven community programs that help kids, so you’re giving and getting a boost with every cup. It’s a virtuous brew that is truly all good.

Our new Meyer Lemon & Blood Orange Pepper Jelly is a delicious combination of refreshingly sweet citrus and a touch of heat. It’s the perfect topper for our double crème Lunds & Byerlys Brie.

This distinctive jelly is also wonderful spooned into Peppadew peppers and topped with a dollop of cream cheese or melted on salmon hot off the grill.

Only simple, all-natural ingredients are used in the creation of this jelly.

Tip: The beautifully cut glass jar is perfect to use as a beverage glass after you’ve enjoyed the jelly.

LundsandByerlys.com real food 11

Lunds and Byerly’s 75th anniversary

Celebrating 75 Years Since founder Russell T. Lund opened his first store with a demonstrated passion for the grocery business and compassion for people, our family-owned company has grown together with employees and communities in the Twin Cities and surrounding area.

Today, under the guidance of Russell’s grandson, Tres Lund, the company continues its commitment to creating a sensational working and shopping experience. Here’s a glance at some of the key moments throughout our history. We look forward to serving the community for another 75 years and beyond!

1937 Russell moves to California and establishes a thriving popcorn business called Red E Popt Popcorn Company.

1958 The Russell T. Lund 1922 Russell T. Lund takes a part-

time job at Hove’s on Lake Street in Minneapolis. Because of his passion for the business he becomes a partner in the Hove’s cheese and cracker department.

1920

1930

Charitable Trust is created to help those in need throughout the community. During the past 75 years, we’ve had the privilege of donating millions of dollars to strengthen the communities we serve.

1940

1939 Russell returns to Minnesota and opens a new Hove’s on Lake Street using profits from his Red E Popt Popcorn business.

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1964 Hove’s lease expires and our stores in Minneapolis and Edina are renamed Lunds.

1950

Lunds and Byerly’s 75th anniversary

1980 Cooking classes begin

at Byerly’s St. Louis Park. Food experts host one-hour cooking classes where attendees learn about favorite and new products, food preparation, and the latest in cooking trends.

1968 Our first Wines & Spirits Shop opens at Byerly’s Golden Valley. Today, we

have ten locations adjacent to Lunds and Byerly’s stores throughout the Twin Cities.

1968 Our in-store partnership with Bachman’s begins. This local,

1991 Russell

family-owned company shares our commitment and passion for quality and service. Today, their fresh-cut flowers and plants are available at every Lunds and Byerly’s.

T. Lund III (Tres), grandson of Russell T. Lund, becomes president and CEO of Lunds, comprised of six stores at the time.

1968 Don Byerly opens the first Byerly’s store

in Golden Valley with innovative features such as a full-time home economist on staff, parcel pick-up service, extra wide aisles, and carpeted floors.

1997

Lunds acquires Byerly’s and integrates the two formats under one company umbrella called Lund Food Holdings, Inc.

1960

1970

1980

1990 1994 Our partnership

with Caribou Coffee begins. This local favorite provides you the highest quality coffee that’s sourced in an environmentally, socially, and economically sustainable manner.

1975

Our famous wild rice soup is created in the Byerly’s St. Paul deli.

It’s chef-crafted, deliciously decadent, and filled with home-style flavor.

1995 To provide added convenience

for our customers, we partner with U.S. Bank to provide in-store banking services.

Today, there’s a U.S. Bank branch in every Byerly’s store.

1971 The first copy of Byerly Bag hits the shelves. This magazine,

filled with expertise and recipes, was a precursor to Real Food magazine.

LundsandByerlys.com real food 13

Lunds and Byerly’s 75th anniversary

2006 Lunds and Byerly’s

reusable bags are introduced in all of our stores.

2000 Our

popular cherry chicken pasta salad is created.

It’s made with fresh gemelli pasta, diced celery, onion, diced chicken breast, and creamy salad dressing and topped with walnuts and dried cherries.

2006 Our partnership with White Way Cleaners (now St. Croix

Cleaners) begins. This is one of the first earth-friendly dry cleaners in the metro area, with biodegradable plastic bags and water preservation technology.

2005 Our brand 2005 Real Food magazine launches to provide you with the best in food expertise.

2001 The decadent Killer

Brownie is introduced. Made from a closely guarded recipe, these extraordinary brownies combine rich layers of chocolate, caramel, and pecans.

of premium Lunds & Byerlys products launches. To carry the Lunds & Byerlys label, each product must meet our strict standards for quality, freshness, and wholesome taste. Products are sourced locally and throughout the world by our culinary experts.

2000 2002 Our partnership

with Hissho Sushi begins.

Their superior quality sushi is freshly prepared in our stores daily by master sushi chefs.

2004 We are the first conventional grocery retailer in the

Midwest to achieve USDA-Organic certification in all of our produce departments. You’ll currently find more than 7,500 organic and all-natural products throughout our stores.

2004 Our signature Haralson 2004 Our partnership with

Big Bowl Chinese Express begins. Available in select stores, Big Bowl offers delicious Asian food that’s prepared in small batches to ensure cooked-to-order freshness.

14 real food fall 2014

apple pie is created. Our bakers make each pie using two pounds of top-quality Haralson apples that stay crisp, even after baking. This pie features an extra-flaky crust made with sweet cream butter.

2004 FoodE Experts now in all

stores. They are a great resource for recipe recommendations, cooking tips, and information about new food trends and specialty products.

2006 Online

shopping debuts to provide our level of quality service with the click of a button. Whether delivered to your home or picked up at our stores, our online shopping experience is quick and easy.

2014 Lunds & Byerlys Kitchen, a first-of-

its-kind food destination, opens in downtown Wayzata. Our latest innovative evolution features an impressive array of prepared food offerings, a wine and beer bar, a tailored selection of groceries, and more—all in one space.

program begins. For every reusable bag used in our stores, we make a 5-cent donation to Second Harvest Heartland.

To date we’ve donated more than $300,000, which equates to more than 1 million meals for those in need.

1942 Hove’s in Edina (later renamed Lunds)

1968 Byerly’s Golden Valley 1969 Lunds Minnetonka 1971 Byerly’s St. Paul 1973 Byerly’s Edina

2013 We’re

1977 Byerly’s St. Cloud

named a Star Tribune Top Workplace. This honor was the result of an employee survey conducted on behalf of the Star Tribune.

Today With 27 stores and growing, our focus remains the same— to create a sensational shopping experience for every customer, every day, every time.

1980 Byerly’s St. Louis Park 1982 Byerly’s Ridgedale 1983 Lunds Ford Parkway 1984 Lunds Wayzata

2010

1987 Byerly’s Roseville

2012 Bone Marché opens

at Byerly’s Golden Valley.

Currently available at Byerly’s Ridgedale as well, this innovative concept offers a wide variety of fresh, made-to-order options.

1939 Hove’s on Lake Street (later renamed Lunds)

1967 Lunds Penn Avenue

2008 Our Reuse and Reward

2010 Creations Café opens

Store Opening Timeline

next to Byerly’s St. Louis Park.

The pet market is filled with specialty pet foods, treats, and supplies, giving pet owners assurance and peace of mind that the special members of their family are cared for.

2010 Our partnership with Mulberry’s

Garment Care begins. This Minneapolis-based company uses only toxin-free solvents.

1988 Byerly’s Burnsville 1994 Byerly’s Chanhassen 1994 Lunds Bloomington 1996 Byerly’s Eagan 1999 Byerly’s Maple Grove 2001 Lunds Plymouth

2012 We’re named Minnesota

Grown Retailer of the Year by the state’s Department of Agriculture because of our commitment to sourcing and promoting locally grown products. We were honored to receive this award again in 2013 and 2014.

2011 Our Responsibly Sourced seafood program launches. We’re proud to

offer you a wide variety of responsibly sourced wild-caught and farm-raised seafood through partnerships with organizations that ensure fisheries are utilizing sustainable practices that preserve and improve our oceans’ ecosystems.

2006 Lunds Navarre Lunds Central & University 2012 Lunds Hennepin Avenue 2013 Lunds Prior Lake 2014 Lunds & Byerlys Kitchen Lunds Penfield Byerly’s Eden Prairie Byerly’s Woodbury

Everyone has a story. Everyone has a favorite.

What’s yours?

We asked. You delivered with hundreds of stories showing how we’ve been growing together as a community for 75 years. Vote for your favorite stories once a day through August 31. We’ll then award a $750 Lunds and Byerly’s grand prize gift card to the customer and employee whose stories receive the most “likes.”

Vote at LundsandByerlys.com/75years.

ingredient

Quince Like a marriage of apple and pear, the quince brings its own flavor to the season.

BY AMIE VALPONE

Q

uinces are fruits native to the warm climates of western Asia and the Middle East, and are often grown near the Mediterranean Sea. Though hard and inedible when raw, once cooked, quinces have a sweet taste that matches their alluring rosy aroma. When boiled, the quince can be sliced and eaten, as the fruit softens and the sweet, fragrant flavor is released. Quinces are high in pectin, a gelling agent, which makes them ideal for jams, jellies, and preserves. The quince can be used in a variety of different ways, ranging from desserts and sweets to dishes with meats and vegetables. The most common use for the fruit is in the traditional Spanish and Latin American dish membrillo, which is a paste that is often served with cheese.

The season for quinces is short—from October to December—so it’s best to get the most out of this sweet-smelling, golden fruit while it's in season. Once ripe, quinces can be stored for up to three weeks in a refrigerator. If washed and sliced, they can be combined with sugar and stored in the freezer for up to a year, so you can enjoy them for longer than their small seasonal window. Their golden color also makes for a beautiful autumn centerpiece for your dinner table.

PHOTO BY OLHAAFANASIEVA - FOTOLIA

ARUGULA QUINCE SALAD: Peel and core 2 large quince. Place them in a medium saucepan with 3 tablespoons honey and 1⁄4 teaspoon orange zest; bring to a boil over medium heat then simmer until quinces are tender, about 40 minutes. Set aside to cool then toss with 4 cups of arugula, 1 tablespoon olive oil, 1⁄4 teaspoon sea salt and 1⁄4 teaspoon pepper. Garnish with 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh mint and 3 tablespoon roughly chopped walnuts. Serve immediately. Serves 4.

CINNAMON ROASTED APPLES & QUINCES: Preheat oven to 375°F. Drizzle 4 tablespoons fresh lemon juice over 5 medium peeled and sliced apples and 3 medium peeled and sliced quinces. In a large skillet, add 2 tablespoons butter along with apples and quinces; cook over medium heat for 2 minutes then add 1⁄2 cup raw sugar, 1⁄2 teaspoon fresh lemon zest, 1 cup water and 1 tablespoon almond extract. Cook for another 5 minutes then remove from heat. Transfer skillet to the oven and roast for 20 minutes or until apples and quinces are tender. Remove from oven; sprinkle with 1⁄2 teaspoon ground cinnamon and serve warm with a scoop of ice cream. Serves 8.

BAKED MAPLE CAULIFLOWER AND QUINCE: Preheat oven to 425°F. Combine 2 large peeled and sliced quinces and 2 cups cauliflower florets in a large bowl with 1⁄2 cup pure maple syrup, 1⁄2 teaspoon sea salt, 1⁄4 teaspoon pepper and a pinch of nutmeg. Transfer to a baking sheet; roast for 45 minutes or until tender. Remove from oven and serve warm; garnish with 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh sage. Serves 4. ■

fall 2014 real food 17

maple

FOR ALL

SEASONS

Once relegated to the breakfast table, this breakout ingredient boosts sweet and savory dishes alike.

The maple is a generous tree. In summer, its leafy canopy shades walking paths, picnic grounds, and backyard patios. Autumn would not be the same without the maple’s hot-poker-red leaves silhouetted against the backdrop of an azure sky.

Early spring, however, is when the maple gives the most, producing watery but sweet sap that is boiled down to create a true culinary treasure: pure maple syrup. In addition to being the star at the breakfast table, maple syrup works well in savory dishes, where its slightly smoky taste adds an intriguing note.

BY TERESA MARRONE

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

MAPLE-CARAMEL ROLLS WITH WALNUT-CURRANT FILLING (RECIPE ON PAGE 25)

BEET AND SPINACH SALAD WITH GOAT CHEESE AND AUTUMN FRUIT

Beet and Spinach Salad with Goat Cheese and Autumn Fruit MAKES 4 SERVINGS

This makes a wonderful luncheon dish or an excellent first course. The beets and dressing can be prepared a day or two in advance; refrigerate until needed then let stand at room temperature for an hour before assembling the salad.

Dressing 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon maple syrup 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice 1 tablespoon finely chopped shallots 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard freshly ground black pepper Salad 3 medium beets, uncooked 1½ teaspoons maple syrup 1 navel orange 1 Honeycrisp or other sweet-tart apple, unpeeled 4 cups (about 10 ounces) baby spinach ¼ cup thinly sliced red onion 1⁄3 cup crumbled goat cheese 1½ tablespoons fresh dill, coarsely chopped 1. For the dressing: Combine ingredients in a small glass jar. Cover tightly and shake well to blend. Set aside until needed.

2. For the salad: Peel beets and cut into ¼-inch-thick slices then cut crosswise into ¼-inch-wide strips. Place in a medium skillet and add syrup and ½ cup water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, reduce to a very gentle boil, and cook 10 to 15 minutes, until beets are just tender. Add a little more water if needed; liquid should be mostly cooked away when beets are done. Remove from heat and set aside until beets cool to room temperature.

3. Peel orange with a sharp paring knife and separate into segments by slipping knife along membranes; discard membranes and place oranges in a small bowl. Quarter and core apple, then cut into thin slices.

4. Arrange spinach on a serving platter. Scatter over onion, distribute beets, and top with apple. Break orange into ½-inch pieces, letting juices drip over salad. Scatter over orange and evenly sprinkle over cheese. Shake dressing and drizzle over salad. Sprinkle over dill and serve immediately.

Grades of Maple Syrup Although maple tapping season lasts only four to six weeks, the finished syrup changes in color and taste throughout the season. Early-season syrup is pale gold, with a very sweet, mild flavor. As the season progresses, the syrup becomes darker and develops a more pronounced maple flavor; this is the kind typically found at grocery stores. By the end of the season, the syrup is very dark, with a strong, lesssweet maple flavor; it is typically used as a cooking ingredient rather than a condiment.

Each grade has its own name based on the color, but the names change depending on where the syrup is packed. In the United States, most syrup purchased by consumers is referred to as Grade A, with various subcategories. The end-of-season syrup is known as Grade B or commercial. Canada’s grading system differs from that used in most of the United States. In 2014, Vermont adopted a new grading system, which likely will be more widely used at some point in the future.

RECIPES ARE ADAPTED FROM MODERN MAPLE BY TERESA MARRONE (MINNESOTA HISTORICAL SOCIETY PRESS)

» Did You Know? The world’s entire supply of commercially produced maple syrup comes from a band along the U.S./ Canadian border, from Minnesota to the Atlantic Ocean.

fall 2014 real food 21

Chicken with Apple-Maple Compote and Cheese Grits MAKES 4 SERVINGS

This dish may seem complicated, but it comes together in about 45 minutes. Use a timer or keep an eye on the clock to track cooking times.

2 1 ¾ 4

2 1½ ½ 1 ½ 1 ½ ¼ ½ ¼ ¼

cups chicken broth tablespoon unsalted butter cup coarse cornmeal, or stone-ground grits boneless, skinless chicken breast halves (6 to 7 ounces each) salt freshly ground black pepper tablespoons olive oil, plus more as needed tablespoons Dijon mustard cup plus 1½ tablespoons maple syrup, divided large Braeburn or other firm, sweet-tart apple, peeled, cored, and diced cup chopped onion tablespoon rice vinegar teaspoon dried thyme teaspoon hot pepper sauce cup whole milk cup freshly grated Parmesan cup grated Cheddar cheese

1. Combine broth and butter in a heavy-bottomed saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Stirring constantly, add cornmeal in a slow, steady stream.

Return to a boil, cover, reduce heat to very low, and cook 30 minutes, stirring frequently. Remove from heat and set aside.

2. While cornmeal is cooking, preheat oven to 350°F. Season chicken with salt and pepper to taste. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until simmering.

Add chicken and sauté until golden-brown on both sides. Transfer to a baking dish that holds chicken snugly in a single layer. In a small bowl, combine mustard and 1½ tablespoons syrup. Brush liberally over chicken, using entire amount. Bake, uncovered, 15 to 20 minutes, until juices run clear. When internal temperature reaches 165°F at thickest part, remove chicken from oven, cover loosely with foil, and set aside.

3. While chicken is baking, place skillet with chicken drippings over medium heat; if dry, add a little more oil. Add apple and onion. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, 5 minutes, until apple softens and turns golden. Add vinegar, thyme, hot pepper sauce, and remaining syrup, and stir to loosen any browned bits. Adjust heat so mixture bubbles very gently and cook, stirring occasionally, 10 minutes, until most of liquid has cooked away but mixture is saucy. Transfer to a serving dish and keep warm.

4. Stir milk into cooked cornmeal and place over medium heat. Cook 5 minutes, stirring frequently, then stir in Parmesan and Cheddar cheeses. Cook, stirring constantly, until cheese melts, about 1 minute. Serve grits with chicken and warm compote.

» Did You Know? It takes about 40 gallons of sap to make one gallon of finished maple syrup.

22 real food fall 2014

CHICKEN WITH APPLEMAPLE COMPOTE AND CHEESE GRITS

Pecan Pie with Maple MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

This delicious riff on traditional pecan pie substitutes maple syrup for corn syrup, producing subtle smoky notes. Chopped pecans are oven-toasted for extra flavor before being incorporated into the batter, with a crowning touch of pecan halves dressing up the top of the pie.

1¼ cups coarsely chopped pecans prepared pastry for single-crust pie ¼ teaspoon cornstarch ¾ cup maple syrup ¾ cup packed golden-brown sugar 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour ½ teaspoon salt 3 eggs 1 teaspoon vanilla extract ½ cup pecan halves ice cream or whipped cream (optional) 24 real food fall 2014

1. Place rack in lower third of oven and preheat to 375°F. Place chopped pecans on a rimmed baking sheet and toast, stirring several times, 5 to 9 minutes, until fragrant and lightly browned. Transfer to a bowl and set aside. Reduce oven to 350°F. When baking sheet is cool enough to handle, rinse and dry.

2. Line a standard pie plate with pastry, decoratively flute edges, and place on baking sheet. Hold a mesh strainer over crust and add cornstarch, shaking to sprinkle evenly over crust.

3. In a medium bowl, combine syrup, sugar, butter, flour, and salt. Whisk until well blended. Add eggs and vanilla, and whisk until smooth. Stir in toasted pecans and scrape into crust.

Gently arrange pecan halves on top of filling in a ring around edge (you might not use all).

4. Bake 40 to 50 minutes, until filling is golden-brown and set, covering crust edges loosely with strips of foil during last 10 to 15 minutes if over-browning. Let pie cool completely on wire rack before serving with ice cream or whipped cream.

Maple-Caramel Rolls with Walnut-Currant Filling MAKES 9 ROLLS

These rolls are assembled the evening before they’re baked. After a fairly short rise on the countertop in the morning, they are ready for the oven, producing fresh, hot rolls without all the fuss. If you don’t have a bread machine, mix and knead the dough in the traditional manner, allow it to rise once, punch it down, and roll it out as directed.

Dough 2 tablespoons maple syrup 1 egg 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly 2½ cups bread flour 1 teaspoon salt 1½ teaspoons quick-rise yeast

Filling ¾ cup coarsely chopped walnuts ¼ cup currants 2 tablespoons packed golden-brown sugar ½ teaspoon cinnamon Topping ¾ cup maple syrup 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces 1½ tablespoons packed golden-brown sugar ½ teaspoon vanilla extract

NUTRITION

1. For the dough: The evening before serving, add syrup to a 2-cup measure (so there's room for mixing) and stir in enough cold water (approx. 7/8 cup) to equal 1 cup. Add egg and beat with a fork until combined. Add with remaining ingredients to bread machine. Run whitedough cycle so dough is kneaded and risen.

2. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead a few times. Pat into a 1-inch-thick rectangle, cover loosely with a towel, and let rest. Spray a 9-by-9-inch baking dish with cooking spray and set aside.

3. For the filling: Combine ingredients in a food processor. Pulse several times until nuts and currants are coarsely chopped; the texture should resemble cooked, crumbled ground beef.

Set aside.

4. For the topping: Place syrup in a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan. Cook over medium heat until surface is covered with foaming bubbles. Reduce heat so syrup continues to bubble but does not boil over and cook, stirring frequently, about 5 minutes from start of boil, until it reaches 235°F on an instant-read or candy thermometer.

5. Remove from heat and add butter. Stir constantly until butter melts and mixture is smooth.

Add sugar and vanilla, and stir until smooth. Pour into prepared baking dish and set aside.

6. Uncover dough and roll into a 9-by-14-inch rectangle. Sprinkle filling evenly over dough and use your hands to gently press into dough. Starting with a long edge, roll firmly into a log. Pinch edge together firmly to seal and pat ends in so log is 13½ inches long.

Using a serrated knife, cut into 9 1½-inch-wide pieces. Arrange rolls, cut-side up, in baking dish on top of maple mixture. Cover with foil lightly coated with cooking spray and refrigerate overnight.

7. The next morning, let covered dish stand at room temperature 1 to 2 hours. Preheat oven to 375°F (metal) or 350°F (glass). Reserving foil, uncover and bake in center of oven 35 to 40 minutes, checking after 20 minutes and covering loosely with foil if browning too quickly.

Rolls are done when springy, not mushy, when pressed with a fingertip.

8. Remove from oven and let stand, uncovered, 3 to 4 minutes. Run a knife around edges of dish to loosen rolls and cover with reserved foil. Lay a platter that is slightly larger than baking dish on top of dish. Grasp dish and platter together firmly with potholders and carefully but quickly flip over and place on counter. Let stand 30 seconds before carefully lifting off dish. Using a large spoon, scoop any remaining caramel from dish and spoon over rolls.

Let cool at least 20 minutes before serving. ■ BEET AND SPINACH SALAD W. GOAT CHEESE & AUTUMN FRUIT: PER SERVING: CALORIES 230 (117 from fat); FAT 13g (sat. 3g); CHOL 5mg; SODIUM 209mg; CARB 25g; FIBER 5g; PROTEIN 6g

CHICKEN W. APPLE-MAPLE COMPOTE & CHEESE GRITS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 626 (194 from fat); FAT 22g (sat. 8g); CHOL 128mg; SODIUM 848mg; CARB 60g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 47g

No Bread Machine?

No Problem To make the roll dough in the traditional manner by hand, you will also need a few tablespoons of flour for kneading the dough, and a small amount of vegetable oil.

Pour 2 tablespoons maple syrup into a 2-cup measure so you have room for mixing. Add enough warm (not hot) water to equal 1 cup; this is approximately 7⁄8 cup. Add the egg and beat with a fork. Stir in the yeast and set aside for 10 minutes; the mixture should appear foamy.

When the yeast mixture has rested for about 10 minutes, stir the flour and salt together in a large mixing bowl.

Add the yeast mixture and cooled, melted butter. Stir with a wooden spoon until the dough pulls together. Transfer dough to a work surface that has been generously sprinkled with flour. Knead by hand until the dough is smooth and supple, about 5 minutes, adding a little more flour as needed to prevent sticking. Rinse and dry the mixing bowl, then rub the inside lightly with oil. Shape the kneaded dough into a ball and place it in the bowl, turning to coat lightly with oil.

Cover the bowl with a towel and set aside until the dough has doubled in volume, about 11⁄2 hours; when you press two fingertips into the dough, the dent from your fingertips should not spring back (if it seems springy, re-cover the bowl and let the bread rise a bit longer).

Punch the dough down gently with your fist and proceed as directed from the start of step 2.

PECAN PIE W. MAPLE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 558 (281 from fat); FAT 33g (sat. 8g); CHOL 93mg; SODIUM 309mg; CARB 63g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 7g

MAPLE-CARAMEL ROLLS W. WALNUTCURRANT FILLING: PER SERVING: CALORIES 381 (121 from fat); FAT 14g (sat. 5g); CHOL 38mg; SODIUM 277mg; CARB 58g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 7g

fall 2014 real food 25

CURRIED COCONUT AND CHICKEN RED LENTIL SOUP WITH CILANTRO SWIRL (RECIPE ON PAGE 29)

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

Soup’s On Enjoy autumn’s bounty one spoonful at a time.

I don’t quite know when or how it happened but my pantry has gone global. Today, sitting in the cupboard next to the coarse salt and garlic, I spot a tin of Madras curry, a jar of freshly toasted coarsely ground cumin seeds, and multiple cans of imported tahini, coconut milk, and hominy.

A bag of Indian red lentils leans against my go-to brown lentils; farro, an ancient Italian grain, sits in a jar nestled next to the rice; coteja, a crumbly, salty Mexican cheese, is in the refrigerator beside a chunk of feta. Evidently when I wasn’t looking these flavors of the world found their way into my kitchen and into my soup pot. With the following recipes that range from a heady Russian borscht to a creamy curried coconut soup that’s chunky with chicken, to a hearty rendition of the iconic Mexican posole, the cook—and the soup lover— can roam the world with a soupspoon in hand.

BY MARIE SIMMONS

ROASTED EGGPLANT AND CHICKPEA SOUP WITH TAHINI

Roasted Eggplant and Chickpea Soup with Tahini MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

Soups brimming with legumes, grains, and vegetables are prepared throughout the Middle East. This recipe, intriguingly enriched with tahini (ground sesame seeds) has a creamy feel with only a hint of the flavor of the tahini. Just before serving, brighten the flavors with fresh, chopped herbs and a squirt of fresh lemon juice.

2 2 2 2 1 ½ ¼ ¼ 1 2 1 1 ¼ 2 ¼ ½

medium eggplants (12 to 15 ounces each) tablespoons extra virgin olive oil cups chopped yellow onion cloves chopped garlic teaspoon cumin teaspoon turmeric teaspoon ground ginger teaspoon cinnamon pinch crushed red pepper, or to taste cup carrot, cut in ½-inch chunks tablespoons tomato paste 14-ounce can chickpeas, rinsed and drained teaspoon coarse salt, plus more to taste cup tahini tablespoons lemon juice, plus more to taste cup thinly sliced green scallion tops cup chopped herbs, such as parsley, cilantro, mint, and dill

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Prick eggplant skins 6 times with tip of a paring knife to help steam escape. Place on a small sheet pan and roast 30 to 45 minutes, until soft and shriveled. Cool.

2. Meanwhile, heat oil in a Dutch oven or large, broad soup pot until hot enough to sizzle onion. Add onion and cook, stirring, 10 minutes, until golden. Reduce heat to low and stir in garlic, cumin, turmeric, ginger, cinnamon, and crushed red pepper, and cook, stirring, 1 minute.

3. When eggplants are cool enough to handle, remove skins with a paring knife and quarter eggplants. Scoop out seeds with tip of a teaspoon and discard. Chop flesh and set aside.

4. Add 6 cups water, eggplant, carrot, chickpeas, tomato paste, and salt to pot and bring to a boil. Cover and cook over medium-low heat 10 minutes, until flavors are blended (do not boil).

5. In a bowl, stir together tahini and a ladleful of soup until blended. Add to pot and stir to combine. Stir in lemon juice, half of scallions, and half of herbs. Ladle soup into bowls and garnish with remaining scallions and herbs.

Curried Coconut and Chicken Red Lentil Soup with Cilantro Swirl MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

Simmering chicken thighs and quick-cooking red lentils in coconut milk makes a delicious curried coconut and red lentil soup. Generous amounts of ginger and cilantro give this soup a bit of spark, and the lime juice brightens the taste. Swirl each bowl with a pretty green topping easily made with puréed cilantro, mint, and yogurt.

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 1 cup finely chopped onion 12 ounces boneless, skinless chicken thighs, trimmed and cut into ½-inch pieces 1 tablespoon curry powder 2 teaspoons grated ginger 1 teaspoon cumin 1 teaspoon turmeric 1 clove garlic, grated 2 cups chicken broth, plus more as needed 1 cup split red lentils 2 13-ounce cans unsweetened coconut milk 2 tablespoons lime or lemon juice, or more as needed 2 teaspoons coarse salt, or to taste 1 cup packed cilantro, leaves and stems 2 teaspoons minced jalapeño, or to taste 1. Heat oil in a Dutch oven or pot until hot enough to sizzle onion. Reduce heat to very low; add onion, and cook, stirring, 10 minutes, until golden. Stir in chicken, cover, and cook 5 minutes. Stir in curry powder, ginger, cumin, turmeric, and garlic, and cook, stirring, 5 minutes, until blended and fragrant.

2. Add broth and bring to a boil. Add lentils and cook, covered, over medium-low heat 20 to 30 minutes, until very soft.

3. Meanwhile, scrape coconut milk into a blender and blend until emulsified. Ladle out ½ cup and set aside for cilantro cream. Add remaining coconut milk, lime juice, and salt to pot.

Cover and keep warm over very low heat. Thin with broth as needed.

4. For the cilantro cream: In a blender, purée ½ cup coconut milk, cilantro, jalapeño, and a pinch salt. To serve, ladle hot soup into bowls and swirl cilantro cream on top.

» Tip

Eggplant can be roasted one or two days before preparing the soup. It will keep refrigerated in its skin or scraped out and placed in a covered container.

fall 2014 real food 29

Beef and Beet Borscht with Barley and Dill MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

There are as many iterations of this iconic beet soup as there are cooks. Some recipes are made with poultry, and some are vegetarian. Typically made with beef, this version uses meaty short ribs.

1 pound meaty short ribs coarse salt freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 3 whole cloves 1 cinnamon stick 1 sprig dill 1 sprig Italian parsley 1 bay leaf 1 wedge onion 1 carrot 1 leafy celery top 1 pound beets, trimmed and scrubbed 2 cups beef broth, or as needed ¼ cup barley 1 cup carrot, cut in ¼-inch dice 1 cup turnip, rutabaga, or parsnip, trimmed and cut in ¼-inch dice 1 cup red cabbage, cut in ¼-inch dice 1 cup tart green apple, peeled, cored, and cut in ¼-inch dice ¼ cup apple cider vinegar, or more to taste ¼ cup finely chopped dill, plus more for garnish 2 or 3 medium potatoes, peeled, halved, and cooked until tender 1 cup sour cream or plain yogurt ½ cup thinly sliced scallion tops 1. Sprinkle ribs generously with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a large Dutch oven until hot enough to sizzle a rib. Add ribs and lightly brown on all sides. Add 8 cups water, cloves, cinnamon stick, dill, parsley, bay leaf, onion wedge, whole carrot, celery top, and beets. Heat to a gentle boil. Cover and cook 1 hour, until meat is pulling away from bone and beets are tender.

2. Set a strainer over a large bowl and, using a skimmer or perforated spoon, remove meat and solids from broth. Cool broth. Set beets aside until cooled. Add beef broth as needed to make 8 cups total and return to Dutch oven.

3. When beets are cool enough to handle, rub off skins, cut into ¼-inch dice, and set aside. Pull meat from bone and discard fat. Cut in ¼-inch dice and add to broth.

4. In a separate saucepan, cook barley in plenty of salted water until tender, 45 minutes for pearled barley and 15 minutes for quick-cooking barley. Drain.

5. Add diced carrot, turnip, cabbage, apple, and vinegar to broth and cook, uncovered, 15 minutes, until tender. Add salt, pepper, and vinegar to taste. Add beets, barley, and dill.

6. When ready to serve, place a halved potato in each deep soup bowl. Ladle over borscht. Top with a spoonful sour cream and sprinkle with scallions and dill.

30 real food fall 2014

BEEF AND BEET BORSCHT WITH BARLEY AND DILL

ROASTED TOMATO SOUP WITH EXOTIC MUSHROOMS, FARRO, AND GREENS

Roasted Tomato Soup with Exotic Mushrooms, Farro, and Greens MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

Roasting plum tomatoes gives a greater depth of flavor, and when chopped, they make a delicious, all-purpose sauce that can be used for pasta or as a soup base. For the mushrooms, use a mix of sautéed shiitake, cremini, and white button. Add farro, an ancient Italian grain now more readily available, to thicken the soup. For a touch of green, stir in chopped escarole, Swiss chard, or spinach before serving.

3 4 ½ 2 1

12 3 1 6 ½ ½ 2

pounds ripe Roma tomatoes, quartered lengthwise tablespoons extra virgin olive oil onion, cut in thin, lengthwise strips cloves garlic small sprig basil coarse salt freshly ground black pepper ounces coarsely chopped mushrooms, such as shiitake, cremini, and white button (about 4 cups) sprigs Italian parsley teaspoon fresh thyme leaves cups chicken broth, plus more as needed cup farro, arborio rice, or quick-cooking barley teaspoon grated orange zest cups packed escarole, Swiss chard, or spinach, chopped grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

1. Arrange oven rack to lowest setting and preheat to 350°F. Spread tomatoes on a large, rimmed sheet pan and drizzle with 2 tablespoons oil. Spread onion in center of pan atop tomatoes.

Add 1 clove garlic, smashed with side of a knife, basil, ½ teaspoon salt, and a grind of pepper. Roast 55 minutes, stirring halfway through to redistribute, until edges begin to brown. Cool.

2. Meanwhile, combine mushrooms and remaining oil in a broad pan. Cook, covered, over low heat 8 minutes, until tender but not browned. The juices will slowly cook mushrooms and flavor soup.

3. Finely chop together parsley, thyme, and remaining garlic; stir into mushrooms, and cook 1 minute. Add broth and bring to a boil. Stir in grain of choice; cook farro 25 minutes, arborio rice 15 minutes, or quick-cooking barley 15 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, transfer tomatoes with juices and seasonings to a food processor. Pulse 3 or 4 times to coarsely chop (do not purée).

5. Add tomatoes and orange zest to cooked farro, adding broth to thin as desired. Stir in greens and cook, stirring, 5 minutes, until tender. Top with Parmigiano-Reggiano before serving.

fall 2014 real food 33

Posole with Chorizo, Pepitas, and Cotija MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

The word posole refers to both the stew-like Mexican soup and the kernels of dried corn (also called hominy).

Based on a sauce of tomatillos, this soup features hominy, roasted poblano pepper, and a mixture of vegetables.

To make hominy, dried corn is soaked in slaked lime to remove the hull and boiled until tender. Fortunately, the canned variety works perfectly for this recipe. Add crumbled, browned chorizo for a hearty taste and thicken with a spoonful of masa harina, traditionally used to make tortillas. Garnish with toasted, salted pepitas, sliced radishes, avocado, and crumbled cotija, a Mexican cheese similar in taste to Asiago.

1 12 4 2 2 2 1 1 1 ½ ½ ½ ¼ 2 1 2 1 3 ¼

poblano pepper ounces chorizo, casings removed cups chicken broth tablespoons chopped jalapeño, or more to taste cloves garlic, smashed with side of a knife large white potatoes, peeled and quartered (6 to 8 ounces each) cup white onion, cut into ½-inch chunks 14-ounce can hominy, rinsed and drained pound tomatillos, husked, trimmed, and cut into ½-inch chunks cup carrot, cut into ½-inch pieces cup celery, cut into ½-inch pieces cup diced tomatoes in juices cup chopped cilantro, including stems teaspoons coarse salt, or more to taste teaspoon dried wormseed or Mexican oregano cups packed spinach, trimmed and coarsely chopped cup corn tablespoons masa harina or fine cornmeal cup fresh lime juice

Salted, Toasted Pepitas MAKES ½ CUP

½ cup pepitas (pumpkin seeds) 1 tablespoon vegetable oil coarse salt 1. Spread pepitas in a small skillet.

Drizzle with oil and sprinkle lightly with salt. Cook, stirring constantly, over medium heat 2 minutes, until turning golden-brown and “popping” in pan. ■

Garnishes 1 to 2 avocados, cut into ¼-inch wedges ½ cup radishes, trimmed and thinly sliced ½ cup toasted, salted pepitas (see recipe) ½ cup finely chopped cilantro ½ cup crumbled cotija or Asiago

NUTRITION

1. Lightly char skin of poblano over a gas flame, in a pepper roaster, or under broiler, turning until evenly blistered. Cool slightly. Rub off charred skin and remove and discard seeds and stem. Cut into ½-inch pieces and set aside.

2. In a medium skillet over medium-high heat, crumble chorizo and cook, stirring, about 5 minutes, until lightly browned. Pour off fat and discard. Set aside.

3. In a large soup pot, combine broth, poblano, jalapeño, garlic, potatoes, onion, hominy, tomatillos, carrot, celery, tomatoes, cilantro, salt, and wormseed. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, covered, 20 to 25 minutes, until tomatillos are dissolved and potatoes are tender.

4. Stir in chorizo. Add spinach, corn, masa harina, and lime juice, and cook at a gentle simmer, stirring, 5 minutes, until slightly thickened.

5. Set out a tray with garnishes. Ladle posole into large, deep bowls and let each diner top with desired garnishes.

ROASTED EGGPLANT & CHICKPEA SOUP W. TAHINI: PER SERVING: CALORIES 278 (119 from fat); FAT 14g (sat. 2g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 561mg; CARB 34g; FIBER 12g; PROTEIN 9g

34 real food fall 2014

CURRIED COCONUT & CHICKEN RED LENTIL SOUP W. CILANTRO SWIRL: PER SERVING: CALORIES 570 (322 from fat); FAT 38g (sat. 29g); CHOL 43mg; SODIUM 1116mg; CARB 35g; FIBER 9g; PROTEIN 28g

BEEF & BEET BORSCHT W. BARLEY & DILL: PER SERVING: CALORIES 353 (153 from fat); FAT 17g (sat. 8g); CHOL 47mg; SODIUM 530mg; CARB 39g; FIBER 7g; PROTEIN 12g

ROASTED TOMATO SOUP W. EXOTIC MUSHROOMS, FARRO, & GREENS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 249 (111 from fat); FAT 13g (sat. 2g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 1056mg; CARB 31g; FIBER 7g; PROTEIN 8g

POSOLE W. CHORIZO, PEPITAS, & COTIJA: PER SERVING: CALORIES 545 (289 from fat); FAT 33g (sat. 11g); CHOL 53mg; SODIUM 1866mg; CARB 44g; FIBER 8g; PROTEIN 22g

POSOLE WITH CHORIZO, PEPITAS, AND COTIJA

RISOTTO WITH SUN-DRIED TOMATOES, OLIVES, AND SMOKED MOZZARELLA (RECIPE PAGE 38)

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

UNDER

pressure Creating incredibly appetizing meals has never been easier.

Like the idea of savoring a creamy split-pea soup 15 minutes after you get a yen for it? A chewy risotto in 10 minutes with hardly any stirring? How about fork-tender beef stew in under a half hour?

Then the pressure cooker is for you. The “PC” cooks in one-third (or less!) the standard time, giving a new and healthy definition to fast food. With more cooks experiencing the soulful taste and texture of pressure-cooked food, this magical appliance is making a big comeback. Try it yourself—tasting is believing.

BY LORNA SASS

Pork Stew with Green Olives and Raisins MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Risotto with Sun-dried Tomatoes, Olives, and Smoked Mozzarella

This zesty stew is inspired by the Cuban lunch-counter favorite, picadillo.

Ask your butcher to cube a piece of pork shoulder roast or buy shoulder chops and cut them up yourself. Serve over rice or quinoa with a side of black beans.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

Risotto is one of the true marvels of the pressure cooker. The PC does all the work, yanking the starch out of the rice in 4 minutes flat. Finish off the risotto with just a little stirring at the end—an easy and fetching last-minute company dish.

2 tablespoons olive oil (or oil from sun-dried tomatoes) ½ cup finely chopped onion 1½ cups arborio rice ½ cup dry white wine or vermouth 3 cups chicken or vegetable broth 1⁄3 cup oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, coarsely chopped ¼ cup oil-cured black olives, pitted and chopped 5 ounces (1 tightly packed cup) smoked mozzarella, shredded or finely diced 3 tablespoons chopped parsley generous pinch crushed red pepper (optional) salt 1. Heat oil in a 2½-quart or larger cooker.

Sauté onion 1 minute then stir in rice and coat well. Stir in wine and cook over high heat about 30 seconds, until evaporated.

Stir in broth, loosening any stuck rice from bottom.

2. Lock lid and increase to high pressure over high heat. Reduce heat just enough to maintain high pressure and cook 4 minutes. Quick-release pressure under cold, running water and remove lid.

3. Risotto will be somewhat soupy. Boil, uncovered and stirring frequently, about 3 to 5 minutes, until mixture thickens slightly and rice is tender but still chewy.

4. Stir in tomatoes, olives, mozzarella, parsley, and crushed red pepper. Add salt to taste. Risotto still may be slightly runny but will continue to thicken. Serve in shallow soup bowls.

38 real food fall 2014

1 1 1 1 2 2 1 2 1⁄3 ½ ½

1⁄3

tablespoon olive oil cup coarsely chopped onion large green pepper, seeded and diced teaspoon whole cumin seeds large bay leaves pounds pork shoulder, trimmed and cut into 1-inch cubes 15-ounce can diced tomatoes with green chilies, including liquid large cloves garlic, pushed through a press cup raisins cup pimento-stuffed olives, sliced teaspoon dried oregano leaves salt freshly ground pepper cup fresh cilantro, chopped

1. Heat oil in a 4-quart or larger cooker. Sauté onion, pepper, and cumin 1 minute. Add ½ cup water, bay leaves, and pork. Pour over tomatoes.

Do not stir.

2. Lock lid and increase to high pressure over high heat. Reduce heat just enough to maintain high pressure and cook 8 minutes. Turn off heat and allow pressure to reduce naturally, about 5 minutes. Remove lid.

3. Remove bay leaves. Stir in garlic, raisins, olives, oregano, and salt and pepper to taste. Simmer 2 to 3 minutes, until flavors mingle. Stir in cilantro just before serving.

Pressure-Cooking Perfection • To avoid scorching when bringing the cooker up to pressure over high heat: First, choose a cooker with a thick bottom, such as stainless steel with an aluminum sandwich. Next, ensure that no browned onion or other ingredients stick to the bottom. Finally, set high-sugar ingredients (like tomatoes or barbecue sauce) on top of other items rather than stirring them in. Doing so prevents them from touching and possibly scorching the base.

• To bring the cooker up to pressure faster, especially when making soups, add boiling (rather than roomtemperature) liquid.

• It’s essential to leave sufficient space on the top of the cooker for the steam pressure to rise. Therefore, do not fill the cooker more than two-thirds or three-quarters, depending on the cooker. In the case of beans and other foaming foods, to avoid clogging the vent, fill the cooker only halfway. (Most cookers have numerous fill lines marked on the inside. Check the manufacturer’s instructions for specifics.

PORK STEW WITH GREEN OLIVES AND RAISINS

fall 2014 real food 39

BEEF SHORT RIBS IN PASTA SAUCE AND SMASHED POTATOES WITH RUTABAGA

40 real food fall 2014

Beef Short Ribs in Pasta Sauce MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

The pressure cooker delivers fall-off-the-bone short ribs in well under an hour. Using a store-bought pasta sauce minimizes prep time. If your schedule permits, cook the ribs the day before and refrigerate overnight so you can easily remove the congealed fat that rises to the top. Serve with ample sauce over wide noodles (12-16 ounces cooked al dente).

1 1½ 2 1 4 2

tablespoon olive oil cups leeks, white and green parts chopped, or onion stalks celery, cut into 1-inch chunks cup dry red or white wine pounds meaty beef short ribs, trimmed cups pasta sauce salt freshly ground pepper 3 cups coarsely chopped arugula grated Parmesan

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

The pressure cooker makes quick work of tenderizing root vegetables for this coarse mash.

Because potatoes cook more quickly than rutabaga, leave them in larger pieces to even out cooking time.

1. Heat oil in a 6-quart or larger pressure cooker. Sauté leeks and celery 2 minutes. Stir in wine and cook 1 minute, until about half has evaporated.

Arrange ribs in cooker and pour over sauce. Do not stir.

2. Lock lid and increase to high pressure over high heat. Reduce heat just enough to maintain high pressure and cook 35 minutes. Turn off heat and allow pressure to reduce naturally, about 10 minutes.

Remove lid. If ribs are not fork-tender, simmer with lid ajar until done.

3. Spoon off fat from surface. (Alternatively refrigerate overnight and remove congealed fat.) Add salt and pepper to taste. If you wish to thicken sauce, transfer ribs to a serving platter and boil sauce over high heat until desired texture. Return ribs to pot just long enough to heat.

4. Just before serving, stir in arugula. Serve sauce over noodles and place ribs on top. Garnish with grated Parmesan.

Pressure-Cooking Perfection • For a fresh finish, stir in some chopped, fresh herbs or some quick-cooking vegetables, such as fresh spinach or frozen peas or corn, just before serving.

Smashed Potatoes with Rutabaga

2 1 1 ¼ 1½

tablespoons olive oil, plus more to taste cup coarsely chopped onion cup vegetable broth teaspoon dried thyme pounds rutabaga, peeled, quartered, and cut into ½-inch slices 1½ pounds large potatoes, quartered salt freshly ground black pepper fresh chives 1. Heat oil in a 4-quart or larger cooker. Sauté onion, stirring frequently, 3 minutes, until lightly browned. Stir in broth, thyme, rutabaga, and potatoes.

2. Lock lid and increase to high pressure over high heat. Reduce heat just enough to maintain high pressure and cook 7 minutes. Quickrelease pressure and remove lid.

3. Using a slotted spoon, lift vegetables out of cooker and place in a serving bowl. Smash with a potato masher. Thin as needed with broth, and season with salt, pepper, and oil to taste.

Garnish with chives. ■

• To avoid overcooking, use a timer!

• When cleaning the lid, ensure the valve and vent areas

NUTRITION

are free of debris by scrubbing well with a toothbrush.

Such regular maintenance prevents clogging and keeps the cooker functioning optimally.

RISOTTO W. SUN-DRIED TOMATOES, OLIVES, & SMOKED MOZZARELLA: PER SERVING: CALORIES 370 (122 from fat); FAT 14g (sat. 5g); CHOL 25mg; SODIUM 694mg; CARB 48g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 11g

PORK STEW W. GREEN OLIVES & RAISINS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 451 (226 from fat); FAT 25g (sat. 8g); CHOL 100mg; SODIUM 503mg; CARB 21g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 36g

BEEF SHORT RIBS IN PASTA SAUCE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 402 (218 from fat); FAT 24g (sat. 8g); CHOL 94mg; SODIUM 434mg; CARB 17g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 27g

SMASHED POTATOES W. RUTABAGA: PER SERVING: CALORIES 207 (51 from fat); FAT 6g (sat. 1g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 221mg; CARB 37g; FIBER 7g; PROTEIN 4g

fall 2014 real food 41

MEXICAN CHICKEN MEATBALLS (ALBONDIGAS) IN A GREEN CHILI SAUCE (RECIPE PAGE 50)

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

Global

Rounds

Savory and satiating, these tasty bites are sure to delight.

Usually foods that are considered a “fad� are intensely popular but their popularity is short lived. Intensely popular meatballs are anything but a short-lived fad. Travel the globe and you'll find that most every nation has meatballs as part of their cuisine. No wonder—they are both delicious and versatile, served as appetizers, main dishes, sandwiches, and snacks.

They can be pan-fried, deep-fried, baked, grilled, poached, and served with sauce. Here are four recipes that travel the globe from homey American barbecued meatballs to exotic Korean and Lebanese versions.

BY BRUCE AIDELLS

Beef and Bacon Meatballs in a Bacon-Flavored Barbecue Sauce MAKES 6 SERVINGS

These tasty little gems make an ideal appetizer. They also can be cooked over a gas or charcoal grill; form them in 2-inch oval patties for easy handling so they don’t fall through the grill.

Beef and Bacon Meatballs ½ cup fresh breadcrumbs ¼ cup yogurt 4 tablespoons melted bacon fat or olive oil, divided 1 cup finely chopped onion ¼ cup finely chopped carrot 2 teaspoons minced garlic 2 teaspoons fresh sage, chopped (or ½ teaspoon dried) ½ teaspoon cumin 1¼ pounds 80% lean ground beef 1 egg, lightly beaten ¼ pound bacon, finely chopped 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon salt, or more to taste 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or more to taste

Bacon-Flavored Barbecue Sauce 6 ounces bacon, diced 2 medium onions, finely chopped 1 medium carrot, finely chopped 5 cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon fresh sage leaves, chopped 3 tablespoons smoked paprika, such as pimentón de la Vera or Hungarian paprika ½ teaspoon cumin 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper, or more to taste ½ teaspoon ground ginger ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper 1 teaspoon mustard powder 2 teaspoons finely ground coffee 3 tablespoons packed dark brown sugar 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce ¼ cup apple cider vinegar, or more to taste 1 cup canned low-sodium chicken broth 1½ cups chili sauce, such as Heinz few dashes hot sauce, such as Tabasco, or more to taste 2 teaspoons hickory liquid smoke (optional)

1. For the meatballs: In a small bowl, stir together breadcrumbs and yogurt. Set aside. Heat a medium frying pan over medium heat. Add 2 tablespoons bacon fat, onion, carrot, and garlic. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, 10 minutes, until soft. Stir in sage and cumin until vegetables are coated.

2. Scrape mixture into a large mixing bowl and add breadcrumb mixture. Add remaining ingredients including liquid smoke, if using. Knead and squeeze mixture until well blended. Cover and refrigerate at least 2 hours or overnight. Form into 1-inch meatballs.

3. Heat remaining bacon fat over medium-high heat in a large frying pan. Add meatballs and fry in batches 5 minutes, until lightly browned. Turn and fry other side 5 minutes. Set pan aside.

4. For the sauce: Heat a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add bacon and fry 10 minutes, until fat renders and bacon starts to brown (do not let get crispy). Add onion, carrot, and garlic, and cook, covered and stirring occasionally, 10 minutes, until soft.

5. Add sage and cook, stirring occasionally, 1 minute. Add paprika, cumin, black pepper, ginger, cayenne pepper, and mustard powder and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add coffee, sugar, Worcestershire sauce, and vinegar, and stir well to combine and bring to a boil, loosening any browned bits from bottom. Add broth, chili sauce, and hot sauce, reduce heat, and simmer 20 minutes, until sauce is thick enough to coat back of a spoon but still thinner than ketchup. Add vinegar, hot sauce, salt, and pepper to taste.

6. Pour sauce over meatballs and cook at a simmer 5 minutes to reheat meatballs. Place in a chafing dish and serve.

Cook’s Notes • The barbecue sauce can be made ahead and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator up to 2 weeks. Warm the sauce gently in a saucepan before serving.

• To serve as a main dish, use a slotted spoon to place 4 to 5 meatballs per serving over mashed potatoes. Using a large spoon, drizzle over 2 to 3 tablespoons sauce. Let diners add more sauce as desired.

• To grill the meatballs, shape them into ovals ½ inch thick, 2 inches long, and 1½ inches wide. Grill 2 to 3 minutes per side then add to the warmed sauce and serve.

• For a lighter dish, substitute ground turkey for the beef.

44 real food fall 2014

BEEF AND BACON MEATBALLS IN A BACON-FLAVORED BARBECUE SAUCE

fall 2014 real food 45

KOREAN PORK KIMCHI MEATBALLS IN A SWEET GREEN ONION AND SESAME SAUCE

46 real food fall 2014

Korean Pork Kimchi Meatballs in a Sweet Green Onion and Sesame Sauce MAKES 6 SERVINGS

I like to serve these meatballs over a bowl of Thai jasmine rice with a side of steamed bok choy for a simple but tasty dinner. (Allow 1–2 cups rice per serving.) If you are in a pinch for time, the meatballs can be made the day ahead and rewarmed. If you want to serve this dish as an hors d’oeuvre, finely chop the green onions so the sauce easily coats the meatballs and requires only a toothpick.

Korean Pork Kimchi Meatballs 1¼ pounds 80% lean ground pork ¼ cup kimchi, drained and finely chopped (reserve liquid) ½ cup fresh breadcrumbs 2 teaspoons brown sugar 2 teaspoons soy sauce 1 tablespoon paprika 1 egg, lightly beaten ½ teaspoon salt ¼ cup finely chopped green onion 1 teaspoon sesame oil 2 tablespoons peanut oil Sweet Green Onion and Sesame Sauce 3 tablespoons chopped ginger 3 tablespoons minced garlic 2 bunches green onions, cut into 1-inch pieces 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar ¼ cup soy sauce 1 cup apple cider 1 cup low-sodium chicken stock ¼ cup mirin 1 tablespoon dark brown sugar 2 teaspoons sesame oil 2 teaspoons cornstarch 2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds 1. For the meatballs: Combine pork and kimchi in a large mixing bowl. Pour reserved kimchi liquid over breadcrumbs and stir to absorb liquid. Add to mixture along with remaining ingredients.

Knead and squeeze mixture until well combined. Cover and refrigerate at least 2 hours or overnight. Form mixture into 1¼-inch meatballs.

2. Heat oil over medium-high heat in a large frying pan. Add meatballs and fry in batches 5 minutes. Turn and fry other side 5 minutes. Remove and set aside.

3. For the sauce: Pour off all but 1 tablespoon fat in pan. Reduce heat to medium; add ginger and garlic, and fry, stirring, 1 minute. Add onions and cook 30 seconds. Stir in vinegar, soy sauce, cider, stock, mirin, and sugar.

4. Add meatballs. Bring to a boil and cook 3 minutes. Add sesame oil. Mix cornstarch with 1 tablespoon water and add. Cook 15 seconds, until sauce just thickens. Remove from heat and stir in sesame seeds. Serve 4 meatballs per person over jasmine rice.

Cook’s Notes • To toast sesame seeds, heat a small fry pan over medium heat. Add seeds, shaking and stirring continually 5 minutes, until lightly brown and fragrant. Remove at once so they don’t burn.

• To serve as an hors d’oeuvre, keep warm in a chafing dish and provide toothpicks or small plates.

fall 2014 real food 47

Lebanese-Inspired Lamb Meatballs with Yogurt, Radish, and Cucumber Salad MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Kibbeh, a mixture of ground lamb and bulgur, is eaten in many different forms in Lebanon.

It’s made with raw lamb and uncooked bulgur and eaten on warm pita bread with minced raw onion. Sometimes it’s made with cooked bulgur, formed into egg-shaped fritters, and deep-fried.

My favorite way is to bake the lamb bulgur and cut it into squares. No matter how kibbeh is prepared, it is usually accompanied with rich yogurt called labneh.

Lamb Meatballs ¼ cup Greek yogurt or labneh ¾ cup cooked bulgur 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 cup finely chopped red onion 2 tablespoons chopped shallots 1 teaspoon ground coriander seed 1 teaspoon cumin 1 teaspoon red chili flakes ½ teaspoon ground ginger ¼ teaspoon allspice 1¼ pounds 80% lean ground lamb ¼ cup pine nuts (optional) ¼ cup flat leaf parsley, chopped 1 egg, lightly beaten 1½ teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 cups flour 1 cup canola oil, or more

Yogurt, Radish, and Cucumber Salad 1 cup Greek yogurt or labneh 2 tablespoons fresh mint, chopped 2 tablespoons flat leaf parsley, chopped 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice, or more to taste 1 cup English cucumber, cut into ¼-inch dice ¼ cup radish, cut into 1⁄8-inch dice 1 tablespoon fresh oregano, chopped 2 tablespoons green onion, green parts chopped ½ teaspoon kosher salt, or more to taste ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or more to taste

1. For the meatballs: Combine yogurt and bulgur, and set aside. Heat olive oil over medium-high heat in a medium skillet. Add onion and shallots, cover, and fry 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until soft. Stir in coriander, cumin, chili flakes, ginger, and allspice to coat and fry 1 minute.

2. Scrape mixture into a large bowl. Add lamb, yogurt-bulgur mixture, pine nuts (if using), parsley, egg, salt, and pepper. Cover and refrigerate at least 2 hours or overnight. Form into 1-inch meatballs.

3. Place flour in a shallow bowl or pie tin. Roll meatballs in flour until coated and transfer to a platter. Pour a ¼-inch deep layer of canola oil into a medium frying pan and heat over mediumhigh heat. Fry meatballs in batches 10 minutes, turning to lightly brown on all sides. Transfer to a warm platter or chafing dish.

4. For the salad: Combine all ingredients in a medium serving bowl. Add lemon juice, salt, and pepper to taste.

5. Serve meatballs with a small bowl of salad on the side. Encourage guests to dip meatballs in the yogurt salad as well as enjoy it as an accompaniment.

Cook’s Notes • Make a sandwich by stuffing 3 or 4 meatballs into a warm pita bread half and spooning over the yogurt salad.

48 real food fall 2014

LEBANESE-INSPIRED LAMB MEATBALLS WITH YOGURT, RADISH, AND CUCUMBER SALAD

Mexican Chicken Meatballs (Albondigas) in a Green Chili Sauce MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Albondigas can be made with many choices of meat, such as pork, beef, turkey, veal, chicken, or a combination thereof. Experiment with whatever suits you. Ground chicken works well and has good flavor and texture. Often albondigas are served as a soup in a rich chicken broth spiked with chilies, but I find they make an excellent main course combined with a simple green chili sauce. I like to serve them over rice or grits and provide warm tortillas on the side.

4 1 ½ 1 1 1 1¼ ¾ 1 ¼ 1 3

tablespoons olive oil, divided cup finely chopped onion cup finely chopped carrot tablespoon minced garlic teaspoon cumin tablespoon New Mexico or ancho chili powder pounds ground chicken (I prefer dark meat) cup cooked rice large egg, lightly beaten cup Greek yogurt (I prefer full-fat) teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican tablespoons green onions, white and green parts finely chopped 3 tablespoons chopped cilantro (optional) 1½ teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

NUTRITION

Sauce 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 cups onion 2 tablespoons garlic 2 tablespoons New Mexico or ancho chili powder 1 teaspoon cumin salt freshly ground black pepper 2 cups low-sodium chicken broth 1 teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican 1 cup canned diced tomatoes, (with green chilies, if desired) 6 poblano chilies or 10 California chilies, fire-roasted, peeled, seeded, and chopped 1 jalapeño, seeded and chopped 1½ cups cilantro stems, chopped 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice, or more to taste

BEEF & BACON MEATBALLS IN A BACON-FLAVORED BARBECUE SAUCE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 499 (361 from fat); FAT 40g (sat. 15g); CHOL 122mg; SODIUM 833mg; CARB 11g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 22g

50 real food fall 2014

KOREAN PORK KIMCHI MEATBALLS IN A SWEET GREEN ONION & SESAME SAUCE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 344 (185 from fat); FAT 21g (sat. 6g); CHOL 84mg; SODIUM 1041mg; CARB 19g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 21g

1. For the meatballs: Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a medium skillet over medium heat and add onion, carrot, garlic, and a pinch each salt and pepper. Cover and cook, stirring frequently, 10 minutes, until soft. Stir in cumin and chili powder and cook 1 minute, until spices become fragrant.

2. Scrape mixture into a large mixing bowl. Add chicken, rice, egg, yogurt, oregano, green onions, cilantro, salt, and pepper.

Squeeze and knead until well blended. Chill at least 2 hours or overnight. Form into 1-inch meatballs.

3. Heat remaining oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat.

Cook meatballs in batches 5 minutes, until lightly browned. Turn and cook other side 5 minutes. Set aside.

4. For the sauce: Add oil to a large, heavy-lidded saucepan or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add onions and garlic. Cover and cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in chili powder, cumin, and a sprinkling each salt and pepper. Add broth, oregano, tomatoes, chilies, jalapeño, cilantro, and lime juice.

Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer. Cook uncovered 20 minutes, until mixture just coats a spoon. Add salt, pepper, and lime juice to taste.

5. Pour sauce over meatballs and heat 5 minutes. Serve 6 to 8 meatballs in soup bowls over rice or grits or serve stuffed into warm tortillas.

Cook’s Notes • If using fresh chilies (my preference), don’t be intimidated by the idea of fire roasting. Place chilies directly over a gas flame or under a broiler. Cook and turn until all sides are charred. Place in a plastic bag and steam 10 minutes. Scrape off burnt skin, slice open, and remove and discard stems and seeds.

• You can serve these meatballs over rice or use them as part of a taco buffet. They also make a great sandwich filling for French rolls garnished with avocado, jack cheese, and shredded lettuce.

• Make a larger batch and store in the refrigerator up to 1 week or freeze to use for quick lunches or unexpected guests. ■

LEBANESE-INSPIRED LAMB MEATBALLS W. YOGURT, RADISH, & CUCUMBER SALAD: PER SERVING: CALORIES 498 (260 from fat); FAT 29g (sat. 8g); CHOL 95mg; SODIUM 957mg; CARB 33g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 26g

MEXICAN CHICKEN MEATBALLS (ALBONDIGAS) IN A GREEN CHILI SAUCE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 427 (230 from fat); FAT 26g (sat. 6g); CHOL 95mg; SODIUM 686mg; CARB 26g; FIBER 5g; PROTEIN 26g

MEXICAN CHICKEN MEATBALLS (ALBONDIGAS) IN A GREEN CHILI SAUCE

BY TARA Q. THOMAS

VEGETABLE VISIONARY

Mollie Katzen, artist, author, and accidental visionary shares a glimpse of the journey that brought the Moosewood Cookbook—one of the best-selling cookbooks of all time—to life as its 40th anniversary version is being released.

PHOTO BY TERRY BRENNAN; FOOD STYLED BY LARA MIKLASEVICS

MOLLIE KATZEN IS SHOCKED when I tell her that I remember buying the Moosewood Cookbook for my mom in 1977—and immediately says, “I hope she wasn’t disappointed by the recipes” in a tone that sounds as if she’s truly nervous to hear my response.

It’s a funny reaction for someone who’s published 12 cookbooks and has more than six million books in print. And particularly funny considering that Moosewood Moosewood—her very first, and still one of the best-selling cookbooks of all time—is being re-released in a hardcover 40th anniversary version this fall.

Clearly, the Moosewood Cookbook was a very big deal when it came out (which was technically in 1974, although the first commercial edition was 1977). The book launched Katzen from an unknown cook into the major leagues of the food world. She’s a heavyweight when it comes to connecting food, sustainability, and health, working with institutions such as the Culinary Institute of America and Harvard University to organize education programs; she speaks at hospitals, health conferences, schools, and tweets frequent thoughts and recipes to more than 30,000 followers on Twitter. Health magazine named her one of the Five Women Who Changed the Way We Eat. And Moosewood Cookbook was inducted into the James Beard Foundation’s Cookbook Hall of Fame in 2007, joining titles such as The Joy of Cooking and The Silver Palate Cookbook.

Yet Katzen is still astounded that Moosewood Cookbook even came to exist.

“You have to understand, I hadn’t set out to write a cookbook,” she says. She hadn’t

even expected to run a restaurant. “I was going to be an artist,” she says. After majoring in architecture at Cornell, which was just a few hours from her childhood home in Rochester, New York, she took off for Berkeley and enrolled in San Francisco Art Institute. Cooking was what she did to support her studies.

She describes the food scene in California as incredibly inspiring. “I got here in 1970,” she says, “and [the scene] was coming together beautifully—the city was filling with artists, travellers, health nuts—all combined with the incredible agriculture in California.” Restaurants like Chez Panisse, which opened the year after Katzen arrived, began opening—places focused on local and seasonal produce rather than cooking technique. “Just to put it in perspective,” Katzen says, “a plate of pasta coated green from basil—no one had ever seen that!” Pesto hadn’t yet made it into the American vernacular. Kale chips had yet to be invented.

The way Katzen saw it, “health” food

was moving from the “shades of beige” popular in macrobiotic cuisine (brown rice, soy) and “inching up the flavor and color spectrum.” And people began moving away from the instant foods and canned produce that had carried them through the 1950s and 1960s. “Especially in San Francisco, with its proximity to all this fabulous produce, we were rediscovering our connections to agriculture and to food,” she says. As an artist, Katzen took on food as another medium.

Meanwhile, her brother and some friends were building a café in Ithaca, New York they’d named Moosewood, after the dog in Notes to Myself Myself, a self-help book

by Hugh Prather. “At some point, shortly before opening, they realized that none of them had any restaurant experience,” she says, laughing. “So they asked if I could come help them out.” She expected to stay about four months; instead, she stayed four and a half years.

Ever the artist, Katzen arrived armed with the notebooks she’d compiled in San fall 2014 real food 53

garden until I was twelve years old, and it was a huge deal to me.

I was smitten.”

—Mollie Katzen

IN THE HERB GARDEN

54 real food fall 2014

WITH JULIA CHILD IN 1994

book publisher. “He had quirky tastes, and a gift for sniffing out home-grown pamphlets.

One of them was by an Episcopalian minister who had been acting as a sort of life coach to his congregation, giving career advice.”

That pamphlet became What Color is Your Parachute. The Moosewood Cookbook came soon after.

Though Ten Speed Press is now a wellestablished publishing house (and a division of Random House), at the time Wood didn’t even have an office, let alone a staff. “When he told me I could be my own editor and artist, I was so happy,” she says. It didn’t matter that it was actually a necessity, not an option; Katzen took the artist’s license and ran with it.

There’s no doubt that the homespun, personal feel of the book, with its painstakingly hand-lettered recipes and whimsical illustrations, was part of the book’s draw. But what really caused the excitement were the recipes.

Even if we know today that her Thai peanut sauces aren’t the most authentic versions around, or that we don’t need to make up for a lack of meat with liberal sprinklings of sunflower seeds, the breadth of recipes remains astounding. In the salad chapter alone, potato salad follows both a Thai and an Indonesian Salad; Italian-style antipasti run up against Ukrainian-style beets, a Balkan cucumber salad and another recipe involving jicama.

Who was eating jicama in 1977? Or traveling to Indonesia and the Balkans, for that matter?

What’s more, the book reads as delightfully, even blithely, agenda-free. It’s not an anti-meat book (indeed, Katzen says she’s not anti-meat; she’s only against bad food, including badly raised meat.) As for health: “We all felt immortal!” she exclaims. (In fact, the first edition of the cookbook contained such massive amounts of dairy and eggs that she revised the recipes in 1992; these are the versions contained in the 40th Anniversary edition.)

Instead, Katzen’s motivation arose from a purely gastronomic point of view. “I never

PHOTO AT LEFT BY LISA KEATING

“I never saw a

Francisco, the pages filled with drawings and notes on dishes she’d encountered in the Bay Area’s many Asian restaurants; with Balkan and Middle Eastern recipes she and her friends had unearthed for their folk-dancing workshops; with ideas that popped into her head. Meanwhile, the Moosewood collective allowed an every-changing stream of people into its kitchen. “Nobody was a trained chef,” she remembers. “We just let friends come in and cook.” Some cooked dishes they encountered on their travels; others recreated their grandmother’s classics.

The place took off, and people started requesting recipes. “I was just writing them down on scraps of paper, napkins, whatever I could find,” she says. Eventually, she says, having a written record of what they were making and how seemed like a good idea.

“Back then, copy shops weren’t so ubiquitous as they are today, and I remember thinking, ‘I know! I’ll go to the copy shop!’” She handcollated and paper-clipped the first versions; later, she discovered the binding machine. “It made little square holes down the side of the paper, and then you could put a plastic binder through it.” Within a year she’d sold more than 4,000 copies at $4 a piece, distributed mainly from the back of her Datsun.

That was in 1974—the very first selfpublished edition, and the inspiration for the newly released 40th Anniversary edition. It may have remained a very low-tech project had Phil Wood, the founder of Ten Speed Press, not got wind of it. “He came from Penguin,” she says, referencing the

saw a garden until I was twelve years old,” she says, “and it was a huge deal to me. I was smitten. It seemed new to me, this idea of growing your own food, not old.” To discover, then, whole cuisines that placed vegetables at the center of the plate rather than the fringes, felt incredible. “The work of finding an alternative to having meat in the center of the plate had already been done,” she says.

Today, Katzen says, her cooking has evolved quite a lot since Moosewood was first printed. “My newest book, The Heart of the Plate, is a much more true reflection of my style now.” The recipes tend to be simpler, focused more on the pure flavor of the vegetable. And she advocates serving meals that include several small dishes rather than a single main course, so that people can pick and choose.

And yet, even Katzen feels the warm pull of the casserole: She’s making the Scheherazade Casserole (page 141 in the cookbook) for guests coming to dinner later in the week after we spoke. “It’s one of my absolute favorites,” she says, “with soybeans—the dried kind, the kind we knew before edamame took over.” She still has a soft spot for purées, whether as dips or warm bowls of comforting goodness.

And the Gado-Gado on page 180 fits into her current philosophy perfectly: a bowl of saffron-tinged rice; another of spinach, and a wide array of vegetables and fruit plus tofu, hard-boiled eggs, and a peanut sauce makes for a dinner that’s both customizable and healthy. As she exhorts her readers in the note that accompanies the recipe, “Have fun with this!” I know it’s been one of my favorites since I was seven, and it’s become one of my seven-year-old’s favorites as well. ■

Gado Gado MAKES APPROXIMATELY 6 SERVINGS

An Indonesian extravaganza: Yellow rice on a bed of spinach, covered with vegetables, tofu, and hardboiled eggs.

A gingery peanut sauce gets drizzled over the top, and crunchy, flavorful “final toppings” add a delightful finishing touch. And it’s all quite easy-even for beginners. Have fun with this! Note that all of the ingredients can be prepared in advance and served warm or at room temperature. Also note that you can vary the ingredients and their amounts. They can be cooked or raw—or some of each. Arrange everything on a platter or on individual plates.

1. A bed of fresh spinach goes on the bottom.

2. Yellow rice goes on the spinch. To make yellow rice, cook 2 cups rice in 3 cups simmering water with 1⁄2 teaspoon turmeric until tender. Add a little extra water toward the end of cooking, if needed.

3. An assortment of vegetables goes on the rice. Such as: • A small bunch of broccoli, cut into small spears and steamed • Fresh green beans, lightly steamed • Red and green cabbage, very finely shredded • Thin slices of carrot, lightly steamed or raw • Mung bean sprouts 4. Tofu and hardboiled eggs (sliced or chopped) go on the vegetables.

Peanut Sauce MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS

1 1 1 3 11⁄2 4 2 1

cup creamy peanut butter heaping tablespoon grated ginger heaping tablespoon minced garlic tablespoons brown sugar cups hot water tablespoons cider vinegar tablespoons soy sauce teaspoon salt (possibly more if peanut butter is unsalted) crushed red pepper, to taste

1. Put everything in a blender and purée until smooth. If it’s too thick, add a little extra water.

2. Transfer to a serving bowl and adjust seasonings to taste. Serve at any temperature, drizzle over Gado Gado.

Final Toppings 3 tablespoons peanut or canola oil 2 tablespoons sliced fresh ginger (very very thin slices, done with your sharpest paring knife) 1 cup finely minced onion 12 medium cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced shredded unsweetend coconut, lightly toasted (optional) crushed red pepper (optional) slices of lemons, limes, oranges, apples, pineapple (optional)

GADO GADO RECIPE FROM MOOSEWOOD COOKBOOK BY MOLLIE KATZEN; COPYRIGHT © 2014; PUBLISHED BY TEN SPEED PRESS.

1. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a small skillet. Add ginger and sauté over medium heat for a minute or so, then transfer to a small bowl.

2. Repeat with the onion and garlic, sautéing each separately in 1 tablespoon oil for 8 to 10 minutes (onion) and about 20 seconds (garlic). Place each in a small bowl.

3. Place some or all of these toppings on the table with the Gado Gado, so each person can liberally garnish his or her own portion.

fall 2014 real food 55

pairings

Brew Mates Make a fine match with tripel ale.

BY MARY SUBIALKA

V

olumes have been written about wine and cheese pairing, but try something frothier and you may effervesce about the match. Tripel ales brewed by Belgium’s Trappist monks are crisp, fruity, and spicy brews. Candy sugar is often added to the mix, which helps them maintain a light flavor and aroma, and it also boosts their alcohol content; Tripel ales have up to 10 percent alcohol by volume but are still light golden colored. This high-proof ale can overpower mild cheese. Its unique balance of sweet and bitter flavors welcomes fullflavored cheeses such as well-aged Cheddar, and also Dry Jack, nutty sheep’s milk cheese, extra-aged Gouda, blue cheese, and triplecream cheeses. (According to locals, the ideal serving temperature for bringing out the unique flavors of the brew is usually close to “cellar temperature,” which is 46 to 59 degrees Fahrenheit.) Since Trappist ales are among the most complex brews, it’s no wonder many connoisseurs treat them like the holy grail of beer. ■

PHOTOS BY TERRY BRENNAN; FOOD STYLED BY LARA MIKLASEVICS

56 real food fall 2014

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