Lunds & Byerlys REAL FOOD Fall 2017 by Lunds & Byerlys

Lunds & Byerlys real food fall 2017

Lunds & Byerlys

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FALL 2017

COMPLIMENTARY

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volume 13 number 3

Taste of India

Demystifying exotic spices and herbs 03

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WEEK OF MEALS: The key to simplifying home cooking DAILY GRIND: Coffee adds rich layers of flavor PROTEIN POWER: Pork dishes from breakfast to dinner

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Those who love to cook make more than food in the kitchen. They make the most of every moment together—sharing stories, creating delicious flavors and simply enjoying the company of close friends. For more than 80 years, Le Creuset has been a part of these special times, and a colorful companion to all who savor food—and life—to the fullest. To learn more about Le Creuset’s classic French quality, and the joys of cooking with premium enameled cast iron, visit www.lecreuset.com.

contents

Features

real food fall 2017

20 A Taste of India Conjure complex flavors with a handful of easy-to-find herbs and spices BY RAGHAVAN IYER

30 Dinner in the Bag Streamline shopping and cooking for a week of delicious homemade meals BY ROBIN ASBELL

40 Beyond the Daily Grind Cooking with coffee adds rich layers of flavor RECIPES BY BRANDI EVANS

46 Protein Power Versatile pork for quick weeknight meals or entertaining RECIPES COURTESY OF THE NATIONAL PORK BOARD

52 Fabio Viviani Top Chef “Fan Favorite” on easy Italian BY AUBREY SCHIELD

Departments 4 Bites More than a meal: Easy family dinner ideas RECIPES BY SARAH WALDMAN

6 Kitchen Skills Braising: Simple ingredients, delightful meals BY JASON ROSS

8 Contributors 17 Ingredient Oats: Packed with nutrients and staying-power BY NORA ALLEN

18 Healthy Habits Sugar detoxing is easier than you think RECIPES BY SUMMER RAYNE OAKES

56 Pairings Cabernet reigns with full-flavored foods BY MARY SUBIALKA

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Our Cover

Palak Gosht, Coriander Crusted Lamb Chops with a Spinach Sauce (page 25) Photograph by Terry Brennan

PUBLISHER JAMIE FLAWS EDITOR, CUSTOM PUBLICATIONS TAMMY GALVIN EDITOR MARY SUBIALKA ASSOCIATE EDITORS AUBREY SCHIELD AND LIANNA MATT ASSISTANT EDITOR CLAIRE NOACK ASSISTANT CONTENT PRODUCER KYLE SMELTER EDITORIAL INTERNS NORA ALLEN, LAUREN DELAPA, NATALIE HALL AND KERRY ROBERSON SENIOR ART DIRECTOR JAMIE BANKSTON GRAPHIC DESIGNER PAUL BOEHNKE PRODUCTION PROJECT MANAGER CINDY MARKING ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE ATHAR KAKKA

VOLUME 13, NUMBER 3 Real Food magazine is published quarterly by Greenspring Media, LLC, 706 Second Ave. S. Suite 1000, Minneapolis, MN 55402, 612.371.5800, Fax 612.371.5801. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Real Food is exclusively operated and owned by Greenspring Media, LLC. Printed in the USA. www.realfoodmag.com C

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The pages between the covers of this magazine (except for any inserted material) are printed on paper made from wood fiber that was procured from forests that are sustainably managed to remain healthy, productive and biologically diverse.

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bites

Making More than a Meal Taking time to cherish wholesome food and good conversation around the table benefits the whole family

amilies that eat together stay together. We all know that preparing and eating homemade meals together is important for quality family time. Kids can share what they learned that day in school, adults can take a step back from their busy work schedules, and everyone can enjoy nutritious and tasty food. Yet, it can be difficult to eat dinner together with extracurricular activities and long work hours. The many benefits of sharing a meal might be motivation enough to get back into this healthy habit. According to the Handbook of Pediatric and Adolescent Obesity Treatment, children who participate in regular family meals do better nutritionally, academically, socially and emotionally. Now to decide what to put on your plate—which is no small task. It is easy to resort to processed foods when you are in a hurry, and dealing with meal prep and picky eaters is hard work after a full day. Author, nutritionist and mother Sarah Waldman provides tips on how to not only get a meal on the table, but also how to enjoy the process in her book Feeding a Family: A Real-Life Plan for Making Dinner Work. Waldman’s simple, seasonal recipes, such as the ones included here, inspire us to savor both the food we consume and the time we spend around the table. —Claire Noack

Broccoli and Cauliflower Fritters MAKES 8 SMALL FRITTERS

Oftentimes the back-to-school routine takes me by surprise. By the end of the summer I am ready for a sense of routine, but then it hits and I am shaken up by the fact that life is really busy. Our home cooking often suffers during these first few weeks as we get our school feet back under us. Determined to get some home-cooked green vegetables into the boys, I knew fritters were the way to do it. We made these fritters, sliced up a big bowl of orchard fruit (pears, apples and late peaches) and chowed down. cups bite-size broccoli florets Lemon-Yogurt Sauce (makes 1 cup) cups bite-size cauliflower florets juice of 1 lemon large egg 1 cup plain full-fat Greek yogurt cup unbleached all-purpose flour or sour cream cup finely grated Parmesan cheese small garlic clove, minced teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as needed several grinds of black pepper 3 to 4 tablespoons canola oil, for frying

1. To make the fritters, bring ½ inch of water to a boil in a large saucepan. Add the broccoli and cauliflower, cover the pan and boil the vegetables for 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and drain the vegetables, then pat them dry with clean kitchen towels. 2. While the vegetables cook, beat the egg lightly in a large mixing bowl. Add in the flour, cheese, garlic, salt, pepper and cooked broccoli and cauliflower. Using a potato masher, mash everything together. You want the broccoli and cauliflower to be recognizable but broken down. 3. Heat 3 tablespoons of canola oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium heat. Once the oil is hot, scoop out a mound of the batter (about 2 tablespoons) and drop it into the pan, then flatten it slightly with your spoon or spatula. Repeat with more of the batter, spacing the fritters 2 inches apart on all sides. Once the fritters have browned underneath, after about 2 minutes, flip them and cook on the other side until golden, another 2 minutes. Repeat with the remaining batter, adding more oil if needed. 4. To make the Lemon-Yogurt Sauce, whisk together the lemon juice and yogurt in a small bowl. 5. Serve the hot fritters with the sauce for dipping. KIDS CAN: Little helpers can smash the fritter mixture with a potato masher. FOR BABY: Smash a fritter with the back of a fork to make little bits for baby. Older infants may like to hold a whole fritter and feed themselves. 4 real food fall 2017

AVOCADOS MAXIMLESHKOVICH - FOTOLIA.COM

1½ 1½ 1 ½ ⅓ 1 ½

Autumn Meatball Subs MAKES 5 SERVINGS (15 MEDIUM-SIZE MEATBALLS)

Everyone loves a hearty meatball sub, and having a skillet of meatballs on the stove at 4:30 p.m. on a fall Sunday feels just about perfect. Maybe you make these for the big game or to have something stowed away in the back of the fridge for the overwhelmingly hectic week ahead. In either case, you’ll thank yourself. ¾ ¾ 2 1 1 ½ 1 ½ ¼ ½ 1 8 2 2 4

pound ground turkey pound ground pork tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon olive oil, divided small yellow onion, finely chopped garlic clove, minced medium apple, peeled and grated medium carrot, peeled and grated cup finely ground fresh breadcrumbs cup whole milk teaspoon ground cumin teaspoon kosher salt grinds of black pepper tablespoons finely chopped parsley cups favorite marinara sauce long French rolls, split Parmesan cheese, grated, for serving

1. Combine the turkey and pork in a mixing bowl. 2. Heat 1 teaspoon of the olive oil in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onion, garlic, apple and carrot; cook briefly until wilted, about 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and set it aside. 3. Combine the breadcrumbs and milk in a large bowl. Add the meat, onion and apple mixture, cumin, salt, pepper and parsley. Mix well. Roll the mixture into golf ball-size rounds and set them aside. You should have 15 meatballs. 4. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large skillet over mediumhigh heat. Add the meatballs, cook for 5 minutes, then flip them and cook for another 5 minutes or until browned. Add the marinara sauce to the skillet and bring it to a simmer, then cover and cook for about 10 minutes or until the sauce has thickened slightly. 5. To serve, toast the rolls and brush the insides with a little olive oil. Pile the meatballs and sauce into the toasted rolls, top with some grated Parmesan and enjoy. Cook’s note: To freeze extra cooked meatballs (either leftovers or those made from a double batch), first arrange them in a single layer on a baking sheet. Place the baking sheet in the freezer, and when the meatballs are completely frozen, pile them into a big storage bag. This method insures that the meatballs don’t stick together. To defrost, simply transfer the meatballs to the fridge in the morning. At dinnertime, warm the already browned meat in tomato sauce until heated through. KIDS CAN: For a fun and messy project, invite the kids to roll out the meatballs with you. FOR BABY: Crumble a lightly sauced meatball for baby to enjoy. Serve with a few raisins and pine nuts. TOMORROW’S DINNER: Leftover meatballs can be served with spaghetti or roughly chopped and baked into a cheesy ziti casserole. ■

RECIPES AND PHOTOS REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM FEEDING A FAMILY BY SARAH WALDMAN, © 2016. PHOTOGRAPHS BY ELIZABETH CECIL. REPRINTED BY ARRANGEMENT WITH ROOST BOOKS, AN IMPRINT OF SHAMBHALA PUBLICATIONS, INC. BOULDER, CO. WWW.ROOSTBOOKS.COM

fall 2017 real food 5

kitchen skills

Basics of Braising Turn simple ingredients into cherished meals with key techniques and a little patience BY JASON ROSS

raising, which is also called stewing, combines two types of cooking: dry and wet. The dry technique develops the flavor—searing and browning with deep caramelization—and the wet technique develops the texture with long, low-and-slow cooking. It can take the most common of ingredients and turn them into delightful and flavorful meals. A braise is the simplest of dishes, such as pot roast set in a slow cooker, but it relies on strong technique and patience to yield the best results. Here are tricks of the trade to help you organize the process, and recipes for beef and vegetables to put them into practice.

What to Braise: A braise takes some time to cook and develop flavor, and since it gets cooked in the browning and liquid stages, use foods that can stand up to the extra cooking. Chicken legs and thighs do better than breasts; tough cuts and bone-in cuts of beef do better than steaks; and hardy winter vegetables do better than greens and flowering plants. Searing for Flavor: Browning the braise is important. The brown bits left in the pan pack a lot of flavor. To get the most browned bits, dry foods to be browned with a paper towel, and make sure not to overload the pan. Any extra moisture makes it harder to brown, and any foods not touching the pan won’t brown—they will steam instead. Take your time and allow a crust to form. One note of caution: Brown is good, burnt not so much. Do not let it get away from you. Deglazing: After browning, it is time to deglaze. Add a splash of wine to pull up the brown bits. Not only does the wine deglaze the pan, the acid in the wine helps tenderize tough cuts by softening the collagen in the meat and adds a touch of acidic flavor to the richness of the stew. The Liquid Level: Some recipes call for covering with liquid halfway up the sides and others ¾ to nearly fully covered. The amount of liquid varies by toughness of the meat and therefore cooking time. The longer the braise needs to cook, the more liquid the braise needs. Vegetables need less liquid than chicken, and chicken requires less than tougher cuts of beef or other meats. Low and Slow: Make sure to simmer, not boil. A gentle simmer renders tough cuts soft and tender. The more connective tissues and collagen, the more important it is to cook slowly. The collagen softens in the slow cooking (and acid from the wine) and makes the toughest cuts fork tender. Finishing: A braise doesn’t need a sauce; it makes its own sauce as it cooks. Rarely is the sauce perfect when the braised meat or vegetables are finished cooking. To finish a braising liquid and make it into a sauce, remove the braised item and reduce the sauce until it reaches a rich, thick texture. Then add the braised meats or vegetables back to the finished sauce.

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PHOTO TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLED LARA MIKLASEVICS

TRICKS OF THE TRADE

Cumin Braised Beef Short Ribs MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Bone-in beef short ribs are perfect for braising, and these offer big flavor and tenderness from the long, slow cooking. 6 bone-in beef short ribs, roughly 4 pounds ½ tablespoon salt ½ teaspoon ground black pepper about ¼ cup all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon vegetable or canola oil 1 tablespoon butter 1½ yellow onions, sliced ¼ inch 1 celery stalk, sliced ¼ inch

4 1 1 ½ 3

cloves garlic, sliced thinly tablespoon ground cumin (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes cup red wine (see Cook’s Note) cups chicken, beef, veal or vegetable stock 2 to 3 bay leaves ¼ cup minced parsley, for garnish

1. Preheat oven to 300°F. Dry beef ribs with paper towels. Season with salt and pepper and sprinkle with flour, shaking off excess flour. 2. Heat oil and butter on medium-high in a heavy bottomed large pot with lid or Dutch oven. If you do not have a lidded pot, use aluminum foil to cover. Place the beef ribs in a single layer in the hot oil, cooking them in batches if they do not all fit at once. Cook ribs 5 minutes on each side until they are well browned and browned bits in the pan begin to develop. Remove the browned ribs and set aside on a towel-lined plate. 3. Add sliced onions, celery and garlic to the hot oil and cook for 5 minutes, stirring once or twice with a wooden spoon. The water in the vegetables will begin to steam, which will start to deglaze the pan and release some of the browned bits. 4. Add cumin to the pan and stir. Cook for another 5 to 10 minutes until the vegetables begin to brown with the cumin. Add tomatoes to hot pan. Stir and cook for 5 minutes until the tomatoes begin to dry out and the color shifts from bright red to more of a brick red. 5. Add wine with heat still on medium-high, using a wooden spoon to scrape up any brown bits left in the pan. Cook for about 2 to 3 minutes, until most of the wine has evaporated and the smell of alcohol has dissipated. 6. Add enough broth or water to nearly cover the ribs by ¾. Add bay leaves, and bring nearly to a boil and then reduce heat to low. Partially cover with a lid or foil with the edge left open, leaving a little space for steam to evaporate slowly. Place the partially covered pot in the preheated oven. Check the braise every 30 minutes, rotating the ribs in the cooking liquid, and adjusting the temperature higher or lower depending on how well it is simmering. Total cooking time will vary, but plan on 1 hour 30 minutes to 2 hours. Turn off the heat when the meat is tender and yields easily to a fork or tongs, but still clings to the bone, even if just barely. 7. Transfer the ribs to a plate. Remove the bay leaves and skim excess fat. Bring the liquid in the pot back to a simmer and cook for 5 to 10 minutes until the liquid has reduced and thickened, coats the back of a spoon, and holds a bead when spooned onto a plate. Taste for salt and add more to taste. Return the ribs to the pot and coat in the thickened sauce. 8. Serve immediately garnished with minced parsley or hold them warm in the sauce for up to 2 hours. They keep well refrigerated in the liquid and covered for up to 7 days. To reheat, cover and cook the ribs in an oven set to 300°F for roughly 20 minutes, until warmed and nearly bubbling.

NUTRITION

Cook’s Note: I like to use Zinfandel or Pinot Noir, but another red you enjoy and have on hand is fine. ■ CUMIN BRAISED BEEF SHORT RIBS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 345 (193 from fat); FAT 22g (sat. 8g); CHOL 83mg; SODIUM 802mg; CARB 12g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 25g

BRAISED WINTER VEGETABLES: PER SERVING: CALORIES 132 (77 from fat); FAT 9g (sat. 3g); CHOL 12mg; SODIUM 774mg; CARB 12g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 2g

Braised Winter Vegetables MAKES 6 SERVINGS

A braise can bring out the robust flavor of hardy vegetables. Timing is important; catch the vegetables when they just turn tender; too long and they will be mushy. 1. Add 2 tablespoons olive oil to heavybottomed large pot or Dutch oven style pan over medium heat, then add 2 tablespoons butter and melt. Add 3 baby turnips, roots and stems trimmed, quartered; 1 small celery root (celeriac), trimmed and cut into 1-inch dice; 2 medium carrots, peeled and sliced 1-inch thick on bias; 2 parsnips, peeled and sliced 1-inch thick on bias, and cook in a single layer for 3 minutes per side, until starting to brown. Remove vegetables to a plate and continue process until all vegetables are browned and removed from pot. 2. Add ½ cup dry white wine to the hot pot. (I like Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc.) Using a wooden spoon, scrape up any brown bits left in the pan. Cook about 2 to 3 minutes, until most of the wine has evaporated and the smell of alcohol has dissipated. 3. Add the vegetables back to the pot and add 2 cups chicken broth, 2 to 3 bay leaves, ½ teaspoon sugar and 1 teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil, lower heat to a gentle simmer, and cover partially with a lid or foil. Find a heat level that just barely holds a simmer. 4. Carefully stir and rearrange vegetables occasionally, every 5 to 6 minutes, until the vegetables are tender, about 20 to 30 minutes. The vegetables will yield to the tip of a sharp knife when cooked. They should be fully cooked and tender but not mushy. 5. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the vegetables to a plate. Remove the bay leaves, and bring the liquid in the pot back to a simmer. Cook for 5 minutes until the liquid has reduced and thickened to a thin glaze. Taste for salt and add more as necessary. Return the vegetables to the pot and coat in the sauce. 6. Serve immediately with ¼ cup thinly sliced green onions as garnish. If you would like to prepare ahead, you can cook the vegetables for half the time and store in the liquid for up to 4 days in the refrigerator. Then gently reheat on medium heat, covered, and finish cooking until tender.

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contributors

Robin Asbell

spreads the word about how truly delicious and beautiful whole, real foods can be through her work as an author, cooking teacher and private chef. She likes to create delicious dishes that range from meat and seafood to beans and grains using global flavors. Her latest book is 300 Best Blender Recipes Using Your Vitamix. She is also the author of Great Bowls of Food: Grain Bowls, Buddha Bowls, Broth Bowls and More; Juice It!; Big Vegan: Over 350 Recipes, No Meat, No Dairy, All Delicious; The New Vegetarian; and Gluten-Free Pasta.

Terry Brennan

is a Minneapolis-based photographer whose commercial and editorial work can be seen across the country. His clients include Target, Hormel, Land O’Lakes, General Mills and United Health Care. “Editorial photography is my passion and working closely with Real Food is always a highlight.”

Lara Miklasevics

began her food career on the other side of the camera, cooking at the renowned New French Café in Minneapolis. Today her work as a stylist is in demand at corporations including Heinz, Target and General Mills, as well as with many magazines. She prides herself on using her experience as a chef to make food as appealing on the page as it is on the plate.

Raghavan Iyer

Jason Ross

is a culinary instructor at Le Cordon Bleu in Minnesota and has worked as a consultant to help develop menus at many Twin Cities restaurants. He grew up in New York City but now calls St. Paul, Minnesota, home, where he lives with his wife and two young daughters.

8 real food fall 2017

is the author of six cookbooks, including Indian Cooking Unfolded. A member and past president (20142015) of The International Association of Culinary Professionals, he is an Emmy winner, a James Beard Award winner, and IACP (formerly the Julia Child Awards) Award-winning Teacher of the Year. Fluent in six languages, he has written for many national publications and appears frequently on television and radio.

Brandi Evans

has been creating twists on recipes for her food blog, BranAppetit, since 2009 and is the author of the book Cooking with Coffee, which was published in 2015. Born in Virginia, she grew up among seasoned home cooks and a love of food and family. Brandi currently creates new recipes for her food blog and regularly works with national brands for recipe development and testing. She has been featured on The Dr. Oz Show, is a contributor to the Huffington Post food section, and writes for local publications. She resides in Narrows, Virginia.

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Unified Quality and Value

can’t believe it has already been more than two years since we brought our two brands together to create one unified Lunds & Byerlys. I guess time flies when you’re having fun! That decision was a natural one as everything about how we go to market— from our culture to our commitment to delivering extraordinary food, exceptional service and passionate expertise—had truly become unified. While things like store signage, uniforms and shopping bags took on our new look and feel overnight, we knew creating and implementing new packaging on thousands of Lunds & Byerlys products was going to take some time. Development of our new packaging design was completed earlier this year and you have likely begun to see it on many items in our stores, including Lunds & Byerlys organic eggs, kettle chips, angel food cake and more. We expect to have our new packaging on all of our products by next summer. I couldn’t be more pleased with the effort of our team to create a clean and distinctive design that represents the quality of our Lunds & Byerlys products. From the time we launched our own products in 2004, we have never wavered on our commitment to ensuring they represent the best in terms of quality and value. It’s why you’ll find San Marzano tomatoes in our pasta sauces. And it’s why we partner with exceptional local vendors such as Steve’s Meat Market in Ellendale, Minnesota

to create our Lunds & Byerlys Bacon and Smokehouse Brats. We know your expectations for our products are high and that is why each Lunds & Byerlys product goes through an extensive process of development and testing before it carries our name (see story on page 13). Our new packaging is another example of our unending focus on continuing to evolve and further enhance our amazing and exclusive Lunds & Byerlys products. Thank you for choosing to shop with us. And, as always, we hope you continue to enjoy Real Food. Sincerely,

Tres Lund President and CEO

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Lunds & Byerlys nourish

Behind the Scenes

of Nourish

An interview with Dr. Crystalin Montgomery, ND, LAC BY BEA JAMES, DIRECTOR OF NOURISH

ur Nourish program benefits from the support and guidance of many wonderful experts. One key resource is Dr. Crystalin Montgomery, a naturopathic doctor (ND) and licensed acupuncturist (LAC) at Be Well Natural Medicine in St. Paul. “Dr. C” has been instrumental in helping us shape Nourish’s holistic approach to living a more balanced life. Read on to get to know the doctor behind Nourish. What is your core philosophy to health and well-being in your practice?

The philosophy guiding my work with patients and communities is rooted in the understanding that all systems in the body are interconnected and the body will do what it needs to maintain balance. The idea of interconnectedness is also inherent in the other component of my philosophy, which is that individual well-being is a community effort. I believe all people should have access to good medicine and good food as well as access to resources and tools that teach the importance of health. What did you think when Lunds & Byerlys first approached you about the concept of Nourish?

Nourish very strongly speaks to my belief that bringing health to more people requires a community effort and that food is the foundation of health. I was encouraged by the idea that a large, successful food market such as Lunds & Byerlys would be engaged in bringing healthy food to not just its own employees, but the greater Twin Cities community. Dr. Crystalin Montgomery

Nourish is made up of five elements—Choose Real Food, Eat the Rainbow, Expand Your Palate, Add a Boost and Create Harmony. While practicing every element is ideal, which one is a good starting point for someone looking to live the Nourish lifestyle?

The best starting point depends on the individual, so you should start anywhere that speaks to you. That said, “Choose Real Food” is the foundation for every person’s health and the starting point for nearly all of my patients. In fact, before I make any vitamin or supplement recommendations, I like to make sure patients are eating a whole foods diet that is low in inflammatory foods and high in vegetables. I’ve learned this is the most efficient way to ensure a return to balanced health. What are some of the challenges that people face when eating for well-being? How does Nourish support these challenges?

I constantly hear people talk about cost, convenience and not knowing what to eat. Making dietary changes can be overwhelming, especially if you’re presented with what not to eat. Nourish helps overcome this step because the focus isn’t on avoiding food, but instead on choosing to eat healthy, nutrient-dense foods. Nourish offers a variety of recipes that fit all different lifestyles, including many on-the-go options. I find when people focus on trying 10 real food fall 2017

Choose Real Food

Eat the Rainbow

Expand Your Palate

Add a Boost

Create Harmony

new meals and snacks made with nutrientdense foods, their cravings for high-calorie, nutrient-empty foods decrease. The Nourish program promotes nutrientdense, calorie-sparse foods. Why is this important?

Eating foods that are nutrient-dense means eating foods with a purpose. I don’t recommend patients spend much time counting calories, but instead focus on the nutrients in foods since our bodies need them to function. Our bodies have a remarkable ability to heal and food will always be a factor in the healing journey, so making food choices that nourish you is a good place to start. Our Nourish program sets out to help you navigate toward healthy food choices and a more balanced life. To learn more about Nourish, visit Lundsandbyerlys.com/Nourish. And to learn more about Dr. Crystalin, visit drcrystalinmontgomery.com. ■

Lunds & Byerlys sustainable seafood

A Great Catch

Umar Pabolia fishing for tuna in Buru Island, Maluku, Indonesia

Fair Trade Certified Yellowfin Tuna

BY SCOTT KERSTING, DIRECTOR OF MEAT & SEAFOOD

s we strive to bring you even more Responsibly Sourced seafood choices, we’re pleased to announce we now offer Fair Trade Certified yellowfin tuna, which is rated a “Best Choice” by Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch. Much like other well-known Fair Trade Certified products such as coffee and cocoa, the Fair Trade Certified seafood program requires fishermen to source and trade according to rigorous, independently audited standards. These standards help protect fundamental human rights, establish safe working conditions, and enable responsible resource management. Each tuna is sustainably caught using single-hook handlines in the waters off of Indonesia. This selective process results in little to no bycatch, which minimizes the impact to other marine life and protects the oceans’ ecosystems. These Fair Trade catching methods support responsible resource management and enhanced environmental stewardship. The Fair Trade certification also ensures fishermen receive a premium price for their catch. This equitable price allows them to invest in projects that improve the welfare of the fishing communities and the families that live there. By purchasing Fair Trade tuna, you are supporting projects that directly improve the quality of life for those living and working in the coastal communities. Additionally, when you purchase Fair Trade tuna, you are also protecting fundamental human rights for those working in the fishing industry. The Fair Trade standards ensure safe working and living conditions and regulate work hours and benefits for employees. We’re proud to offer another wonderful Responsibly Sourced seafood option. You can now buy yellowfin tuna with the peace of mind of knowing it was caught For our Niçoise Salad with Fair Trade Yellowfin Tuna recipe, visit LUNDSandBYERLYS.com/TunaRecipe sustainably and is green rated by the Monterey Bay Aquarium. Pick up Fair Trade Certified yellowfin tuna every day at the seafood counter in all of our stores! ■ LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 11

Lunds & Byerlys charitable giving

Open Arms of Minnesota

Preparing and delivering free, nutritious meals for those with life-threatening illnesses

e believe in the importance of giving back to the communities we serve, and now, in partnership with Open Arms of Minnesota, we have strengthened our efforts to feed those in need across the Twin Cities. Our partnership with Open Arms began in 2016 and has continued to grow. This year, we’re pleased to support Open Arms in a variety of events that will provide nutritious meals to thousands of Minnesotans. We’re excited to share more about this wonderful nonprofit that serves a critical need in our community. It’s a simple notion: People who are sick should not be without food. Yet every day, people in our community with life-threatening illnesses find themselves unable to shop or cook—and are often without a support network to help. That’s where Open Arms comes in. Open Arms is a nonprofit that cooks and delivers free, nutritious meals to people living with lifethreatening illnesses in the Twin Cities. Open Arms began in 1986 when Bill Rowe prepared and delivered food to a friend dying from AIDS. Today, Open Arms cooks 11,000 meals each week for those living with cancer, HIV/AIDS, multiple

Open Arms of Minnesota chefs at their Minneapolis facility

12 real food fall 2017

sclerosis and ALS. All of their services are provided free of charge to anyone in the household affected by the disease, including caregivers and dependent children. The organization is built on a strong belief of “food as medicine.” To that end, the Open Arms team includes a registered dietitian, a food service director and trained chefs who create specialized menus tailored to each of their client groups’ unique nutritional needs. After meals are prepared, they are carefully packaged and delivered to Open Arms clients. Open Arms serves a critical need in our communities, but they don’t do it alone. Their small but mighty professional staff is supplemented with the essential assistance of 5,500 volunteers annually. Volunteers spend time in the Open Arms kitchen, the organic garden, in the office and out on delivery routes. Another way to support Open Arms is by attending their events throughout the year, which include their Moveable Feast and gourmet pop-up dinners and 24-hour Cook-a-Thon at Open Arms. To learn more, visit OpenArmsMN.org. Since their founding, Open Arms has helped nourish and sustain people living with illnesses in the Twin Cities. We’re honored to partner with Open Arms and celebrate all the good they do in our communities. ■

Volunteers help assemble meals

Lunds & Byerlys products

Fresh New Look, Same Great Taste New packaging design for all Lunds & Byerlys products BY JULIE GRIFFIN, DIRECTOR OF PRIVATE BRANDS

f you have visited any Lunds & Byerlys store lately, you may have noticed many of our Lunds & Byerlys products have had a makeover. Following the unification of our Lunds & Byerlys brands in 2015, we are now in the process of updating all of the packaging for our Lunds & Byerlys products. Our new packaging has a fresh, clean look. The distinctive, simple design focuses on the products and really stands out on our shelves. Inspiration for our new packaging design came from the expertise of our team and an abundance of research. Our goal from the beginning was to ensure we focused on the authenticity of our brand and the trust our customers have in us. The new packaging design provides continuity to the look and feel of our Lunds & Byerlys products throughout all departments of our stores. It’s important to note that while we’re changing the packaging, we are not changing the products’ ingredients or flavor profiles. The Lunds & Byerlys products you know and love will have a fresh new look with the same great taste. Created in 2004, our line of Lunds & Byerlys products meets strict

quality standards and undergoes an extensive process before reaching our shelves. We begin by looking at how an item is differentiated from other products in the category and what ingredients and other characteristics it has that make it a premium item. Our chefs and culinary experts also do extensive taste tests to ensure it meets our expectations. Available exclusively in all of our stores, we offer thousands of Lunds & Byerlys products sourced locally and from around the world. Some of my favorites include our Lunds & Byerlys Extra Virgin Olive Oil and Lunds & Byerlys seasoning blends because they make my weeknight meals so easy. I buy a fresh protein such as chicken, salmon or pork, drizzle it with olive oil and top with one of our delicious seasoning blends like Island Breeze or Smoky Pork. Steamed fresh veggies make a delicious, healthy side when topped with olive oil and a sprinkle of either our Spring Veggie or Spuds seasonings. And just like that—dinner is served. We are committed to delivering quality, freshness and wholesome taste in every product that carries the Lunds & Byerlys name because, like you, we expect nothing less. ■

LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 13

Lunds & Byerlys

what’s in store

A.G. FERRARI PASTAS AND SAUCES A.G. Ferrari pasta is made in an authentic pastificio—pasta factory—in the Trentino-Alto Adige region of Italy using organic durum wheat flour and mountain spring water. Each cut is extruded through bronze dies and slowly air-dried. This process means each flavorful cut of pasta holds sauce beautifully for a delicious bite every time.

Tip: Pair A.G. Ferrari pastas with their authentic Italian sauces. Italian farmers market veggies are crafted into delicious, versatile sauces such as basil pesto, arugula pesto, bruschetta spread and bell pepper spread.

HEAVENLY ORGANICS RAW HONEY Heavenly Organics honey is harvested from wild beehives found within the forests of India where the bees range free to pollinate far from the reach of pesticides and pollutants. Their raw organic honey harnesses the power of nature so you receive a variety of essential vitamins and minerals. Varieties include white, acacia and neem honeys.

Did you know? Neem honey originates from bees pollinating the blooming Neem flowers in the forests of India. The Neem tree has been used for medicinal remedies for centuries and is known for its antibacterial and digestive health benefits.

BOFANNA BARS Bofanna Bars take a healthy approach to frozen treats. The creamy, delicious treats are created using farm-fresh fruit, pure dairy cream and natural flavors. Each bar includes only natural ingredients; there are no artificial flavors, colors or preservatives. Flavors include chocolate coconut, raspberry truffle, vanilla black cherry and strawberry cream.

Did you know? Each Bofanna Bar is packed with Pure Health Probiotics, which can improve digestive balance.

14 real food fall 2017

Lunds & Byerlys what’s in store

UPTIME ENERGY DRINKS Whether you need mental clarity, physical stamina or added focus, Uptime sugarfree energy drinks have been designed to help you excel no matter the task. Each bottle holds a refreshing and sparkling blend of orange, lemon and lime flavors that provides a balanced energy boost without an intense, uncomfortable rush.

Did you know? Every bottle of Uptime contains nearly as much caffeine as a cup of coffee.

REPUBLIC OF TEA ORGANIC U•MATCHA SINGLE SIPS Now you can enjoy premium organic matcha tea easily and conveniently, whether at home or on the go, with U•Matcha Single Sips. This matcha blend features a touch of monk fruit and the prebiotic agave inulin, which results in a slightly sweetened cup of matcha with just 15 calories.

Tip: Single Sips can be enjoyed hot or cold. Simply stir into a cup of hot water for a steaming mug of tea or add to a chilled bottle of water and shake.

LUNDS & BYERLYS ORGANIC JAMS Our organic jams are crafted with fresh-picked fruit grown in organic orchards in Palisade, Colorado. Since the fruit is sun-ripened on the trees and picked at its peak, the fruit develops deep flavors and sugars naturally. To capture the greatest concentration of flavor, the jams are made in small batches and thickened the old-fashioned way by slowly cooking down the fruit. This careful process results in jams that are beautiful in appearance, intensely flavorful and brimming with whole fruit goodness. Flavors include strawberry, blackberry, apple pie and cherry pie.

Tip: Jam isn’t just for toast. Try our organic apple pie jam swirled into oatmeal in the morning or drizzled over ice cream in the evening.

LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 15

Take control of your grill

Enter to win this grill text GRILL to 55955 or visit lundsandbyerlys.com/grill The new Traeger Timberline pellet smoker gives you the freedom to grill from your couch, or across town, with its WiFIRE® controller. Use the Traeger App to kick up the smoke or change and hold temperatures. Warners’ Stellian makes grilling even easier with convenient locations, knowledgeable speciaists and professional delivery and assembly.

COON RAPIDS APPLE VALLEY

MAPLE GROVE EDINA WOODBURY ST. PAUL ROCHESTER MINNEAPOLIS OUTLET SHAKOPEE

*Model Timberline 850 is valued at $1699. Visit LundsandByerlys.com/grill for contest rules and alternate forms of entry.

Minnesota family owned

ingredient

Going with the Grain Touted for being one of the tastiest breakfast grain options, oats are packed with nutrients and keep you full until lunchtime

ld-fashioned, rolled and steel-cut. No matter what form oats take, they are full of protein, fiber, healthy carbohydrates and vitamins and minerals, making them one of the most nutrient-dense foods you can eat. Oats may even help lower bad cholesterol, reduce high-blood pressure, soothe irritated or itchy skin, and keep you fuller longer. Add oats to cookie recipes for a nutty taste and added texture, make sweet or savory porridges, or mix oats with your favorite ingredients for hearty, homemade granola. Though this grain has been a staple since the Stone Age, today’s cooks and bakers are still finding new ways to use it. Grind oats into a powder for a whole grain replacement for refined flour, or create “overnight oats.” Combine oats with a liquid and your favorite toppings before bed and enjoy chilled or warm in the morning. Overnight oats have recently become a food trend as an easy, on-the-go take on classic oatmeal. Instead of cooking, the oats soak up the liquid in the jar, which allows them to grow larger than their cooked counterparts, helping you feel fuller with less food. Try combining your overnight oats with milk, nut milk, water, or orange juice or lemon juice for a twist. —Nora Allen Oat Bran Previously used primarily for livestock feed, this ingredient provides 50 percent more fiber per serving than oatmeal, making it more effective at lowering cholesterol and helping with digestion. Bran also takes the cake for satiation, with its ability to absorb 25 times its volume in liquid on average in the stomach. Oat Groats The least processed form of oats, oat groats are the whole grain with only the bran and inedible hull removed. Known for having the longest cooking time, with approximately 1 hour of stovetop cooking needed per serving, these oats are best used in dishes that allow for long cooking, such as porridge or pilaf. Steel-Cut Oats Steel-cut oats, or Irish oatmeal, are oat groats chopped with steel blades, making the grains smaller, which reduces the cooking and digesting time. Easier to find in grocery stores than their less-processed counterparts, steel-cut oats pack all of the nutritional value of oat groats. Prepare the way you would cook oatmeal, or use them in overnight oat recipes for a more nutritionally dense breakfast option.

OATS JIRI HERA - FOTOLIA.COM

Scottish Oats Scottish oats are steel-cut oats steamed and ground into a meal. The finest form of the grain, Scottish oats are just a little thicker than flour, making them a great flour substitute. Because of the fine texture, Scottish oats take a quick 5 minutes to cook, making them an easy breakfast as you’re running out the door. For a creamier porridge, try mixing in oat bran. Rolled Oats Odds are, if you’re eating oatmeal in the United States, you’re eating rolled oats. Rolled oats are simply steamed oat groats rolled flat into flakes. There are varying types, ranging from thick rolled oats to quick oats. Thick rolled oats are ready to use after rolling them flat, while quick oats are chopped into smaller pieces prior to packaging, reducing their cooking time and giving them a softer texture. Instant Oats The most processed form of oats, instant oats are quick rolled oats that have been precooked before packaging. Because they have been precooked, instant oats have the lowest nutrient profile of all oat varieties. Use instant oats in cookies, breads or sprinkled over Greek yogurt or smoothie bowls for a healthier substitute for sugary granola. ■

Cardamom and Orange Overnight Oats MAKES 2 SERVINGS COURTESY OF THE OLDWAYS WHOLE GRAINS COUNCIL AND EMILIA PETRUCCI

½ cup plain Greek yogurt 1 cup rolled oats 1 cup unsweetened almond or coconut milk fortified with vitamin B-12 2 tablespoons chia seeds 1 tablespoon maple syrup 1 teaspoon orange zest ¼ teaspoon cardamom ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 tablespoon pumpkin seeds, for garnish orange slices, for garnish 1. In a Mason jar, mix yogurt, oats, milk, chia seeds, maple syrup, orange zest, cardamom and cinnamon. Add the top to the Mason jar and shake. 2. Leave in the fridge overnight. 3. Top with pumpkin seeds and orange slices or other fruit in the morning. 4. Serve warm or chilled.

fall 2017 real food 17

healthy habits

Sweet Sans Sugar Cutting out this sweet ingredient isn’t as difficult as you may think, and it can still be delicious to boot

ary Poppins, everyone’s favorite British nanny, may have sung that “just a spoonful of sugar helps the medicine go down,” but cutting out the sweet ingredient—or even trying to decrease your consumption—can yield wonderful benefits for overall health and wellness. It’s no secret that obesity and diabetes are alarming issues in our society. Reducing sugar consumption can lead to healthy weight loss, increased energy, improved overall mood, decreased inflammation in skin and joints, and can even prevent diseases. In an introduction to her book SugarDetoxMe, Summer Rayne Oakes shares a recent World Health Organization study that found one in 11 adults in the world is diabetic. With ever-increasing obesity rates among adults and children alike—especially in the United States—Oakes shares practical tips and easy-to-follow recipes for people looking to reduce their sugar intake or bid a sweet farewell entirely. Sugar is added to a wide variety of foods we eat on a regular basis including bread, milk and sauces. And as we consume it, sugar creates a reaction in the brain that ignites happiness neurotransmitters such as serotonin and dopamine. Therefore it is no surprise that we end up craving it more when we stop consuming it. While it seems overwhelming to cut out sugar, Oakes’ book provides a wealth of recipes, ingredients, shopping lists and meal planning tips to help even the biggest sweet tooth achieve success. SugarDetoxMe is organized into 10 meal maps, each of which includes a shopping list, recipes and suggested staples for the kitchen. Additionally, the ingredients can be used in multiple recipes, leading to less wasted food and money. —Aubrey Schield

Spinach and Egg Drop Soup MAKES 2 SERVINGS

You’ll be surprised how easy this soup is to make. Within seconds of adding the egg, the broth thickens, and moments later, you’ll be ladling the sumptuous mixture into a bowl, never to return to Chinese takeout. How’s that for a fortune, sans cookie? 1 ½ 1 2 4

tablespoon extra virgin olive oil shallot, thinly sliced tablespoon peeled and julienned ginger cloves garlic, chopped cups vegetable broth, store bought, or Homemade Vegetable Broth (recipe at right) pinch sea salt, to taste

pepper, to taste 2 eggs, lightly beaten 1 bunch spinach handful green onion, chopped parsley, for garnish ¼ teaspoon sesame seeds, for garnish

1. Heat the olive oil in a deep pot over medium heat and add the shallot and ginger, stirring for about 2 minutes until they are fragrant. Add the garlic and sauté for another minute. 2. Pour the vegetable broth (or you can use water) over the shallot and garlic mixture. Season with salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer. 3. Whisk the eggs in a small bowl with a little salt and pepper. 4. Add the spinach and green onions to the vegetable broth and cook until wilted, about 30 seconds. Begin stirring in the egg mixture slowly. Season to taste, garnish with parsley and sesame seeds and serve.

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Homemade Vegetable Broth MAKES 4 CUPS (2 SERVINGS)

2 ½ 1 2 1 2 2 16 1 1 1

garlic cloves, sliced yellow onion, diced tablespoon extra virgin olive oil to 3 carrots, diced to 2 carrot tops celery stalks to 4 sprigs thyme cups water to 2 bay leaves, optional teaspoon celery seeds, optional to 2 cloves, optional

1. Sauté the garlic and onion with the olive oil in the bottom of a pressure cooker until they are fragrant, approximately 2 minutes. 2. Add the remainder of the ingredients to the pressure cooker. Use at least 16 cups of water or fill the cooker ¾ of the way full. Seal the pressure cooker, bring it to pressure, and cook for 50 minutes. 3. Turn off the heat. The pressure will drop automatically. Strain the liquid through a sieve into another large pot. I often also use a heavy-duty paper towel with the sieve as well. Press the liquid from the vegetables into the new pot. Compost the remaining vegetables. Refrigerate any unused portion and use within 2 days.

Coconut Pancakes MAKES 5 SERVINGS

Part of going through a sugar cleanse involves acclimating your taste buds to foods that are naturally sweet. These coconut pancakes fit the bill and are seriously satisfying. 1 4 ¼ ⅓ 1

small banana eggs cup coconut flour, plus more as needed cup canned coconut milk (try to use just the coconut cream) teaspoon vanilla

1 teaspoon carob powder 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 tablespoon coconut oil squeeze of lemon juice 1 cup kefir, optional

1. Add the banana and eggs to a blender and blend on low. Add the coconut flour, then the coconut milk, vanilla, carob powder and cinnamon. Blend until well mixed. If the mixture is too runny, add 1 more tablespoon of the coconut flour. 2. Heat the coconut oil in a skillet over low to medium heat. Slowly pour 3 to 4 tablespoons of the mixture into the hot skillet per pancake. Heat the pancakes until bubbles start to form, about 2 minutes, then flip them and let them brown lightly on the other side. Squeeze a little lemon juice on top of each pancake. Serve the pancakes with kefir for added flavor. ■

fall 2017 real food 19

ABOVE: BUND GOBHI PARATHAS (RECIPE PAGE 29)

20 real food fall 2017

A Taste of

INDIA Create the complex flavors of Indian cuisine with just a handful of commonly found herbs and spices

BY RAGHAVAN IYER

hen I set about writing a book on easy Indian cooking three years ago, part of me wondered if I was sane. After all, could I create a complexity

with easy-to-find ingredients and techniques? Unbeknownst to me, I had already set the groundwork of doing just that 34 years prior, when I landed in middle America with no access to groceriesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;not even cilantroâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;from my childhood years. I wondered whether or not I could re-create layers of flavors with items found in mainstream grocery stores, and better yet, using only a handful of ingredients, including spices. The notion that every Indian dish is layered, multifarious and tedious using an armload of ingredients is incorrect. We conjure complexities within a recipe, oftentimes by using the same ingredient in multiple ways at various times as we construct the dish. It is possible to create those sensational flavors with a handful of key spices. How you handle a spice makes all the difference in a recipe. I always tell my students to buy whole spices whenever possible and store them in an airtight jar in a cool, dry area in their pantry. The reason I am so emphatic about procuring spices whole is a simple one although the reasoning itself appears complex. When Indians (by which I mean all of us in the subcontinent, including Pakistanis, Nepalese and Sri Lankans) use spices, we can extract at least eight different flavors from any single spice, depending on the technique we use. Undoubtedly, regional cooking techniques in India vary based on seasonal availability of ingredients, but those very same skills, applied to common vegetables, fruits, meats, seafood and legumes will help you bring the flavors of Indian home cooking to your table.

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

fall 2017 real food 21

Subzi Kootu

Seasonal Vegetables with Yellow Split Peas and Mustard MAKES 6 SERVINGS

A combination of seasonal vegetables and yellow split peas punctuated with the smokiness of blackened red chilies and toasted coriander seeds is a hallmark of southeast Indian fare. A part of the country that is known for vegetarianism, stews like this one are perfect with India’s well-known flatbreads called roti (tortilla-like) or ladled over white basmati rice.

½ 3 ¼ 8

1 5

2 8 1

1 2 1 8 1 4

4 8

FIVE MUST-HAVE SPICES FOR INDIAN DISHES 1 Cardamom pods 2 Mustard seeds 3 Coriander seeds 4 Cumin seeds 5 Turmeric (ground)

FIVE ESSENTIAL HERBS AND FLAVORINGS 6 Fresh Chilies (serrano) 7 Dried Chilies (chile de arbol) 8 Cilantro 9 Mint 10 Ginger

22 real food fall 2017

cup yellow split peas, rinsed cups water teaspoon ground turmeric ounces assorted fingerling potatoes, cut into 1-inch pieces cups cauliflower florets (about 1-inch florets) ounces fresh asparagus spears, ends trimmed, cut into 1-inch pieces large carrot, ends trimmed, peeled and cut into 1-inch thick coins to 2 dried red cayenne chilies (like chile de arbol), stems discarded tablespoon coriander seeds tablespoons ghee or canola oil teaspoon black or yellow mustard seeds ounces washed spinach leaves, coarsely chopped teaspoon coarse sea or kosher salt ounces grape tomatoes, cut in half

1. Place the yellow peas in a Dutch oven or a 4-quart saucepan along with the water. Bring it to a boil over medium-high heat. Skim off any foam that surfaces. Stir in the turmeric. 2. Add the potatoes, cauliflower, asparagus and carrot to the pot. Lower the heat to medium and continue boiling, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the peas are cooked and the vegetables are fork tender, about 20 to 25 minutes. 3. As the vegetables cook, preheat a small skillet over medium-high heat. Add the chilies and coriander, shaking the skillet occasionally to ensure the seeds turn reddish brown and the chilies blacken slightly, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer them to a spice grinder, and once they are cool to the touch, grind them to the texture of finely ground black pepper. 4. In that same skillet heat the ghee or oil over mediumhigh heat. Sprinkle in the mustard seeds. Once they begin to pop, cover the skillet. Once all the seeds have popped, about 30 seconds, pour the oil and seeds into the vegetable pot. 5. Once the vegetables and peas are tender, stir in the spice blend, spinach greens and salt. As soon as the greens wilt, stir in the grape tomatoes and serve.

BOWL RIGHT COURTESY OF KHAZ¨ANA, MINNEAPOLIS, MN

SUBZI KOOTU

fall 2017 real food 23

24 real food fall 2017

Palak Gosht

Coriander Crusted Lamb Chops with a Spinach Sauce MAKES 6 SERVINGS

When you see the elegant, long-handled lamb chops cooked medium-rare, half-sunken under shreds of a bright green spinach blanket mottled with fresh ground spices, they will look enticing. A simply executed dish chock-full of goodness, these chops can also be a starter for a formal sit-down meal. Usually one to two chops per person is a good portion size for that first course and three chops as a main course. For Lamb Chops 3 pounds rack of lamb (from the ribs) ¼ cup coriander seeds, ground 1 teaspoon coarse sea or kosher salt 2 tablespoons canola oil For Spinach Sauce 1 small red onion, coarsely chopped 1 small green bell pepper, coarsely chopped 6 slices (each a quarter coin-size piece) fresh ginger (unpeeled) 3 large cloves garlic 1 serrano chile, stem removed, coarsely chopped (do not discard the seeds) 2 tablespoons canola oil 1 tablespoon coriander seeds 1 teaspoon cumin seeds ½ teaspoon ground red pepper (cayenne) ¼ teaspoon ground turmeric 1 teaspoon coarse sea or kosher salt 1 can (14.5 ounces) diced tomatoes 1 pound prewashed baby spinach leaves, finely chopped

PALAK GOSHT

1. Cut the racks into individual chops by slicing in-between each rib handle. You should have at least 18 chops. 2. Place the coriander seeds into a spice grinder and grind it to the texture of finely ground black pepper. Tap this out into a small bowl and mix in the salt. 3. Line the chops on a tray and sprinkle each top (the meat part and not the bone handle) with the coriander-salt blend. Make sure you use up half the blend for this. Press the blend into each chop’s flesh to make sure they adhere. Flip the chops over and repeat with the remaining blend. 4. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large skillet or sauté pan over medium-high heat. Place half of the lamb chops in the pan and sear them on the underside, 1 to 2 minutes. Flip the chops over and repeat the searing, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer the chops from the pan to a plate. Drizzle 1 extra tablespoon oil into the pan. Repeat searing the remaining chops the same way you did the first batch. Add the seared chops to the first batch. 5. To make the sauce, mince the onion, pepper, ginger, garlic and chile in a food processor. Heat the oil in the same pan over medium heat. Scrape the minced blend and stir-fry until the onion medley is brown around the edges, about 5 minutes. 6. As the onion browns, quickly combine the coriander and cumin and grind them in a spice grinder to the consistency of finely ground black pepper. Stir in the red pepper (cayenne), turmeric and salt. Once the onion medley is ready, stir in the spice blend and cook the spices, about 15 seconds. Pour in the tomatoes, including juices. Pile in half the spinach leaves and cover the pan to wilt them, about 2 minutes. Add the remaining spinach and do the same, an additional 2 to 3 minutes. 7. Crowd the chops into the pan and make sure they are blanketed under the sauce. If the pan is too small to accommodate all of that, divvy up the chops and sauce into two separate pans. Cover the pan(s) and allow the chops to cook a bit more and absorb some of those plush flavors, about 5 minutes. The chops should be medium-rare. If you wish for less rare meat, simmer them, covered, an additional 3 to 5 minutes. Serve immediately.

fall 2017 real food 25

Chana Pulao

Spiced Basmati Rice with Garbanzo Beans and Mint MAKES 6 SERVINGS

For a simple dinner, on many occasions I have sat down in the peaceful cushioned comfort of my favorite rocking chair with a large plateful of Chana Pulao and a yogurt raita punctuated with shredded cucumber, mint and coarsely cracked black peppercorns. (See Cook’s Notes on page 29 for raita base recipe.) A complete meal, you really don’t need anything else as an accompaniment, except perhaps a glass of wine—I would suggest Sauvignon Blanc or Malbec. 1 2 1 ½ 6 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 8 ½ ½

cup uncooked basmati or long-grain rice tablespoons ghee or canola oil teaspoon cumin seeds teaspoon whole cloves to 8 green or white cardamom pods (3-inch) cinnamon stick fresh or dried bay leaf small red onion, cut in half lengthwise and thinly sliced to 2 fresh serrano chilies, sliced lengthwise into four quarters each (do not discard the seeds) (15-ounce) can garbanzo beans, drained and rinsed cups cold tap water teaspoon coarse sea or kosher salt ounces grape tomatoes, sliced in half cup finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves and tender stems cup finely chopped fresh mint leaves

1. Place the rice in a small bowl and add enough water to cover by about 1 inch. Gently with fingertips swish grains in bowl until water becomes cloudy; drain. Repeat 3 or 4 times until the water remains almost clear. Cover with cold water by about 1 inch and soak 20 to 30 minutes; drain. 2. Heat the ghee or oil in a medium-sized saucepan over medium-high heat; add cumin, cloves, cardamom, cinnamon and bay leaf. Sizzle 20 to 30 seconds. Add the onion and chilies and stir-fry until the onion is light brown around the edges and the chilies smell pungent, 3 to 5 minutes. 3. Stir in the rice, garbanzo beans, water and salt. Heat to boil and cook uncovered stirring once or twice, 4 to 5 minutes or until almost all the water evaporates. Lower the heat to lowest possible setting and steep covered 8 to 10 minutes. Turn off the burner and let the pan sit undisturbed an additional 8 to 10 minutes. 4. Remove the lid and add the tomatoes, cilantro and mint. Fluff the rice with a fork or spoon to release the steam and serve.

26 real food fall 2017

Murghi Korma

Chicken in Saffron-Almond Sauce MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Kormas are rich sauces that often incorporate nuts and aromatic spices. Some of the kormas in restaurants include tomatoes, but I prefer to leave the acid out to showcase the purity of almonds, saffron and cream. A saucy curry like this works great accompanied with either some naan bread or steamed basmati rice. 2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into 1-inch-thick strips 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh ginger 4 large cloves garlic, finely chopped ½ cup blanched almond slivers 1 tablespoon coriander seeds 1 teaspoon cumin seeds 1 teaspoon black peppercorns ½ teaspoon whole cloves ½ teaspoon cardamom seeds (removed from either green or white pods) 1 (3-inch) cinnamon stick, broken into smaller pieces ¼ cup canola oil 1 cup heavy (whipping) cream ½ teaspoon saffron threads 1 teaspoon coarse sea or kosher salt ½ cup finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves and tender stems 1. Combine the chicken, ginger and garlic in a medium-sized bowl. 2. Grind the almonds in a spice grinder to the texture of slightly coarse breadcrumbs. Add it to the chicken. In the same grinder, add the coriander, cumin, peppercorns, cloves, cardamom and cinnamon and grind the blend to a texture of finely ground black pepper. Tap this out into the bowl with the chicken and almonds. Mix well and refrigerate the chicken until ready to cook. 3. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil over medium-high heat in a large skillet. Add half the chicken strips, rub and all, in a single layer and allow the underside to sear and brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Flip chicken strips and repeat with the other side, cooking an additional 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the pieces from the skillet onto a plate. Repeat with the remaining oil and chicken. 4. Once the second batch is brown, return the chicken strips from the first batch, including any juices, to the skillet. Pour in the heavy cream along with the saffron threads and salt. Scrape the pan to release any stuck-on brown bits of spice and chicken. Once the cream comes to a boil, lower the heat to medium and simmer, covered, stirring occasionally, until the chicken pieces are barely pink in the center and the juices run clear, 8 to 10 minutes. 5. Serve sprinkled with the cilantro.

TRICKS OF THE TRADE: Many of these recipes use a spice grinder, which is like a coffee grinder. If you do not have one, you can use a mortar and pestle for those steps.

MURGHI KORMA

fall 2017 real food 27

CHANA PULAO (RECIPE PAGE 26) WITH YOGURT RAITA

28 real food fall 2017

Bund Gobhi Parathas

Cabbage-studded Flatbreads MAKES 6 FLATBREADS

This is my simplified version of the more laborious, hand-stuffed flatbreads called bund gobhi parathas—chile-spiked cabbage stuffed into an Indian whole-wheat dough and griddle-cooked. I call it bund gobhi parathas deconstructed. And the beauty of this version is that you don’t need the signature atta flour common to Indian breads, for which a trip to an Indian market is highly probable. A combination of high protein durum flour (from which pasta is made) and light pastry flour, both available in the flour section of the supermarket, does the trick. These flatbreads are great accompanied with a homemade raita—the yogurt-based dips with vegetables such as shredded cucumber, finely chopped red onion and tomatoes. A bit of coarsely cracked black peppercorns and salt rounds it out (see Cook’s Notes). 1 ½ 1 2 ¼

cup durum wheat flour (also called durum semolina) cup pastry flour (plus extra for dusting) teaspoon coarse sea or kosher salt cups finely shredded cabbage cup finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves and tender stems

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh ginger (unpeeled) 2 to 3 fresh green serrano chilies, finely chopped (do not discard the seeds) about ½ cup hot tap water about ¼ cup ghee or melted butter for brushing

1. Measure the two flours and salt into a medium-sized bowl. Stir in the cabbage, cilantro, ginger and chilies. Pour 2 to 3 tablespoons of the hot water over the flour, stirring it in as you do so. Repeat until the flour comes together to form a soft ball; you will use about 1⁄2 cup of water altogether, maybe 1 tablespoon more or less. Using your hand, gather the ball, picking up any dry flour in the bottom of the bowl, and knead it to form a smooth, soft ball of dough (do this in the bowl or on a little floured surface). If it’s too wet, dust it with a little pastry flour, kneading it in after every dusting until you get the right soft, dry consistency. 2. Cover the dough with plastic wrap or a slightly dampened cloth until ready to make the breads. 3. Using your hands, divide the dough into six equal pieces and shape each piece into a ball. Press each ball flat between your palms to form a patty. Cover the patties with plastic wrap. 4. Tear off a large sheet of aluminum foil, fold it in half lengthwise, and set it aside. Place the ghee or melted butter near the stove, with a pastry brush handy. 5. Heat a medium-sized skillet (preferably nonstick or cast iron) over medium heat. 6. While the skillet is heating, lightly flour a small work area near the stove, and place a dough patty on it (leave the others under cover). Roll it out to form a round roughly 5 to 6 inches in diameter, dusting it with flour as needed. Make sure the round is evenly thin, with no tears on the surface. 7. Lift the round and plop it into the hot skillet. Cook until the surface has some bumps and bubbles, and the underside has some brown spots and looks cooked, 2 to 3 minutes. Immediately flip it over and cook until the other side has brown spots, 2 to 3 minutes. 8. Brush the round with ghee or melted butter and flip it over to sear it, about 15 seconds. Brush the top with ghee or melted butter and flip it over to sear it, about 15 seconds. Slip the griddle-cooked bread between the layers of foil to keep it warm. 9. Repeat with the remaining dough, stacking the finished breads under the foil.

NUTRITION

Cook’s Notes: • Flatbreads such as this one often serve as an edible eating utensil—tear pieces off with your fingers, wrap it around morsels of stir-fries and curries, and savor it. Think outside that proverbial bun and serve it as an appetizer, cut into wedges, with a favorite dipping sauce. • These cooked breads freeze well for up to two months. I usually separate each piece with a sheet of parchment or wax paper and slip the whole package into a zip top bag. When I want a few piping hot breads at a moment’s notice, I wet and squeeze excess water from a couple of paper towels. I envelop them around as many frozen breads as I wish to thaw and warm them in the microwave on high for 30 seconds to 1 minute. As good as fresh! • To make a simple raita: Whisk 2 cups plain yogurt until smooth. Stir in ½ cup peeled, seeded, shredded cucumber, ¼ cup finely chopped red onion, 1⁄2 cup finely chopped fresh tomato, 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves and tender stems, ½ teaspoon coarse sea or kosher salt, and ½ teaspoon coarsely cracked black peppercorns. Serve chilled. Variation: For cucumber-mint raita, substitute about 10 thinly sliced mint leaves for cilantro and omit onion and tomato, if desired. ■ SUBZI KOOTU: PER SERVING: CALORIES 1 4 8 (4 5 f ro m fa t) ; FAT 5g (sat. 3g); CHOL 11mg; SODIUM 366mg; CARB 21g; FIBER 8g; PROTEIN 7g

PALAK GOSHT: PER SERVING: CALORIES 305 (180 from fat); FAT 20g (sat. 4g); CHOL 65mg; SODIUM 825mg; CARB 10g; FIBER 5g; PROTEIN 23g

CHANA PULAO: PER SERVING: CALORIES 227 (51 from fat); FAT 6g (sat. 3g); CHOL 11mg; SODIUM 417mg; CARB 39g; FIBER 5g; PROTEIN 6g

MURGHI KORMA: PER SERVING: CALORIES 460 (281 from fat); FAT 32g (sat. 10g); CHOL 138mg; SODIUM 415mg; CARB 5g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 38g

BUND GOBHI PARATHAS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 233 (79 from fat); FAT 9g (s a t . 5 g) ; C H O L 2 2 m g ; SODIUM 397mg; CARB 33g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 5g

RAITA: PER SERVING: CALORIES 59 (12 from fat); FAT 1g (sat. 1g); CHOL 5mg; SODIUM 205mg; CARB 7g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 5g

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Dinner in the Bag BY ROBIN ASBELL

Streamline shopping and cooking with this easy plan: Buy a dozen ingredients to supplement pantry staples and enjoy a week of homemade meals

30 real food fall 2017

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

We promise this will make your week easier! fall 2017 real food 31

CHINESE MEATBALL SOUP (RECIPE PAGE 34) AND BROWN RICE WITH SCALLIONS AND WATER CHESTNUTS (RECIPE PAGE 38)

32 real food fall 2017

e all want life to be just a little bit easier sometimes— a shorter commute, a few odious chores taken off our

hands, or maybe we want our food shopping and prep to take just a bit less time. If you want to eat well, you do need to cook. But with a little planning, you can streamline the shopping and cooking into a simple plan. The first principle: Maintain a pantry. Your pantry will make the difference between a bare table and a run to the store. For this week’s plan, check to make sure you have the pantry essentials (right). Keeping foods such as pasta, olive oil and other staples on hand is the only way that you will be ready to throw things together in a pinch. Then, with your foundation in place, you are ready to make a fast sweep through the store to buy the short list of things you need for this week. Three proteins, some veggies, a couple pieces of cheese and a baguette will be in your cart, and you will be out

Grocery Shopping List Meat 3 pounds ground beef 2 4-pound chickens 1 6- to 8-pound bone-in, smoked picnic ham Produce 1 2-pound bag carrots 1 bag mixed greens 2 5-ounce containers fresh spinach 1 big bunch flat leaf parsley 2 bunches scallions 4 fresh large tomatoes Dairy/Deli 6 ounces feta cheese 1 cup shredded Parmesan cheese Bakery 1 crusty baguette

the door quickly. In the plan outlined here, each protein gets a night of cooking, and you also set yourself up for the next night. That means you should make the meatloaf and meatballs the day before everybody has soccer practice and meetings. Then you can put the meatball soup together effortlessly on the night that you don’t have time to cook, after everyone is home and hungry. Roasting two chickens means not just sandwiches on day two, but also a packet of cooked chicken to freeze for future meals. A ham looks great on the table as the centerpiece, and the leftovers live on to fill omelets, build sandwiches, and enliven mac and cheese for days to come. So give your pantry a quick check, make sure you are good to go, and give this plan a whirl. It will make life a little easier, without resorting to fast food. And that’s a win-win!

Stock Up: The key to making home cooking easier on yourself is to have plenty of staples on hand

Pantry Staples apple cider vinegar breadcrumbs, plain butter canola oil chicken stock (1 quart) Dijon mustard eggs garlic, fresh herbs, dried (basil, celery seed, dill, ginger, oregano, tarragon, thyme) honey lemons light brown sugar long-grain brown rice milk olive oil potatoes raisins red wine vinegar roasted red peppers (1 jar) sesame seeds soy sauce tomatoes, diced, canned (14 ounces) water chestnuts, sliced, canned (8 ounces) white wine whole-wheat fettuccine (12-ounces)

Greek Meatloaf and Chinese Meatball Soup Greek Spinach Salad with Tomatoes MAKES 4 SERVINGS

This simple salad is a perfect companion to your meatloaf, and a touch of dill gives it a hint of Greek flavor. 4 cups fresh spinach, washed and dried 2 large tomatoes, quartered 1 large carrot, shredded Dressing 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1½ tablespoons red wine vinegar 1 teaspoon dried dill ½ teaspoon salt 1. Arrange the spinach and tomatoes in a large salad bowl, and sprinkle with shredded carrots. 2. For the dressing: In a jar, combine the olive oil, red wine vinegar, dill, salt and pepper and shake well to mix. Drizzle over the salad and toss to coat. Serve immediately.

Cool Tip: Freeze meatloaf slices or meatballs for a future lunch or dinner

MAKES 8 SERVINGS EACH

Buy three pounds of ground beef and make two meals in one cooking session. Since the meatloaf makes 6 to 8 servings, you can easily slice the leftovers and pack and freeze for future lunches and dinners. The meatballs can also be frozen for up to two months, then thawed overnight in the fridge to drop in the soup at a later date. 1 tablespoon canola oil 2 large onions, chopped Meatloaf 6 ounces feta cheese 2 cups fresh spinach, coarsely chopped 2 teaspoons fresh lemon zest 3 large eggs, divided 2 teaspoons dried oregano 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 cup breadcrumbs 2 pounds lean ground beef ¼ cup shredded Parmesan cheese, for topping

Meatballs ¾ cup plain breadcrumbs 2 tablespoons soy sauce, divided ½ teaspoon ground ginger 1 pound lean ground beef Soup 1 quart chicken stock 2 cloves garlic, chopped 2 large carrots, chopped 2 cups fresh spinach, chopped

1. For Meatloaf: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line two sheet pans with foil and lightly oil foil. Place a 12-inch length of plastic wrap on the counter for forming the meatloaf. 2. Spread the canola oil in a large sauté pan and place over medium high heat. Add the onions and stir to coat with oil. Stir frequently until the onions are sizzling, then reduce the heat to medium. Cook for about 10 minutes to soften the onions. Scrape half of the onions into a large bowl and leave the rest in the pan, off the heat (for the meatballs). Let the onions cool. 3. In a medium bowl, crumble the feta. Add the chopped spinach, lemon zest and 1 egg and mix well; reserve. 4. To the bowl of cooled onions, add the remaining 2 eggs, oregano, salt, pepper and breadcrumbs, and mix well. Add 2 pounds of the ground beef, reserving 1 pound for the meatballs. Mix well. 5. On the plastic wrap, form a rectangle of meat mixture about 9 inches wide and 10 inches across. Pat gently to make an even layer. Form a line of the feta mixture lengthwise across the center of the rectangle. Use the plastic wrap to pull up the sides of the rectangle to form an even roll around the feta filling. Press the edges together lightly and carefully transfer to a foil lined pan, seam side down. Use your fingertips to smooth any cracks, and tuck any filling back in. Bake for 1 hour, then take out to sprinkle the Parmesan cheese along the top of the meatloaf, and return to the oven for 20 minutes. The meatloaf should register 160°F on an instant read thermometer. Let cool for 15 minutes before slicing. 1. For Meatballs: Place the second measure of sautéed onions in a large bowl. Add the breadcrumbs, 1 tablespoon of the soy sauce and ginger, and mix well. Add the remaining ground beef and mix. 2. Form tablespoon-sized balls of the meat mixture and place on the second prepared sheet pan. Bake for 30 minutes, until an instant read thermometer inserted in a meatball registers 160°F. To serve the next day, transfer the meatballs to a storage container and let cool, uncovered, in the refrigerator, then cover and store for up to 3 days. 1. For the Soup: Pour the chicken stock into a large pot and place over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and carrots and simmer gently for about 5 minutes, just to soften the carrots to your liking. Add the remaining tablespoon soy sauce. Stir in the meatballs and bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Stir in the spinach, just to wilt. Serve hot and with Brown Rice with Scallions and Water Chestnuts page 38.

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GREEK MEATLOAF AND GREEK SPINACH SALAD WITH TOMATOES

FETTUCCINE WITH GARLIC AND PARSLEY (RECIPE PAGE 38) AND CHICKEN CACCIATORE

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Chicken Cacciatore and Chicken Pesto Sandwiches MAKES 6 SERVINGS EACH

This is a recipe that just keeps giving—two chickens make two hearty meals, and there is even some chicken left over to freeze for future lunches and dinners. Serve with the Fettuccine with Garlic and Parsley, and you can spread the saucy goodness on the pasta. 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 2 whole chickens, 4 pounds each (or 4 leg quarters and 1 pound boneless chicken breast for sandwiches) 1 large onion, chopped 3 cloves garlic, chopped 1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes 1 large roasted red pepper, drained and chopped 1 teaspoon dried basil 1 teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon salt ½ cup white wine ¼ cup parsley, chopped

CHICKEN PESTO SANDWICHES AND MIXED GREENS AND ROASTED PEPPERS IN LEMON VINAIGRETTE (RECIPE PAGE 38)

Double Up: Roast two chickens at once and have enough for dinner now and freeze some for later

Sandwiches 1 clove garlic 1 cup fresh spinach ½ cup fresh parsley ¼ cup shredded Parmesan cheese ¼ teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 large baguettes 2 medium tomatoes, sliced

1. For the Chicken Cacciatore: Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a sheet pan with foil. Adjust the racks in your oven, removing the middle one so that the chickens will fit on the bottom rack. 2. Pat chickens dry, then twist the leg quarters back to break the joints, and cut the leg quarters away from the chicken back, setting them aside for the Cacciatore. Put the remaining chickens on the prepared sheet pan. Drizzle with a little olive oil and sprinkle with coarse salt. Roast the chickens for about 50 minutes to 1 hour, until an instant read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the breast registers 160°F. Let the chicken cool, then refrigerate to be used for the Pesto Sandwiches. 3. In a large skillet, over high heat, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil. Place the chicken quarters (for the Cacciatore) skin side down in the hot oil. Cook for about 4 minutes to brown the chicken. Turn the chicken pieces and cook for another 3 minutes to brown. Transfer the chicken to a plate. 4. Add the onions to the hot oil in the pan and stir. Cook, stirring, and reduce the heat to medium. After about 5 minutes, add the garlic and stir for another 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and their juices, roasted pepper, basil, oregano, salt and white wine. Bring the mixture to a boil. 5. Place the chicken quarters, skin side up, on the tomatoes. Cover the pan, and when the sauce boils, reduce to simmer vigorously. Cook for about 10 minutes. Uncover and continue cooking, and use an instant read thermometer to test the temperature of the thickest part of the thigh. When the meat registers at 160°F, transfer to a clean plate. 6. Bring the tomato sauce to a boil, and cook until the sauce is thick, about 5 minutes, then sprinkle with parsley. Serve the chicken with tomato sauce. 1. For Sandwiches: When the chicken is cooled, pull the meat from the bones. You should have about 9 cups of pulled meat. If desired, save the carcasses to cook for stock. Put half the meat in a large bowl. Put the other half in a storage container and either refrigerate or freeze. 2. In a food processor, place the garlic, spinach, parsley, Parmesan and salt. Process to grind finely. Scrape down and add the olive oil and process again to make a smooth paste. Scrape into the bowl with the cold chicken. Toss to coat. 3. Split the baguettes in half lengthwise, and then place on an oiled sheet pan. Bake for 5 minutes. Fill baguettes with chicken and sliced tomatoes. Serve immediately.

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Brown Rice with Scallions and Water Chestnuts MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Brown rice is much more filling and healthy than white rice, so make this when you have 40 minutes to let it cook. This is great alongside the Chinese Meatball Soup, and makes it a complete meal. 1 teaspoon canola oil 4 medium scallions, whites and greens chopped separately 1 cup long-grain brown rice 2 cups water 1 (8-ounce) can sliced water chestnuts, drained

NUTRITION

1. In a 2-quart pot with a tightfitting lid, warm the canola oil over medium heat. Add the white parts of the scallions and stir until they are softened, about 3 minutes. Add the brown rice and water and bring to a boil over high heat. When boiling, cover tightly and reduce the heat to low. 2. Cook for 40 minutes, then check to see if the water is absorbed. The rice will be tender and there will be holes in the surface of the rice in the pot. Fold in the water chestnuts and let stand for 5 minutes, covered, before serving. Sprinkle with scallion greens.

Fettuccine with Garlic and Parsley MAKES 4 SERVINGS

In the time it takes to cook the pasta, you can chop some garlic and parsley to make this side dish special. It is delicious on its own, and even better topped with the Chicken Cacciatore. If you have a vegetarian coming to dinner, toss in a handful of chopped pistachios or walnuts for a meatless main course. 3 2 2 ½

tablespoons extra virgin olive oil cloves garlic, chopped teaspoons fresh lemon zest cup fresh parsley, chopped

teaspoon salt ounces whole-wheat fettuccine teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cup freshly shredded Parmesan

1. Put on a large pot of water to boil for the pasta. 2. In a large bowl, combine the olive oil, garlic, lemon zest, parsley, salt and pepper. Stir to mix and allow to marinate while you prepare the pasta. 3. Cook pasta according to package directions, about 11 minutes. When the pasta is al dente, drain and shake to drain well. Transfer the pasta to the bowl with the parsley and toss to coat. Sprinkle with the Parmesan and toss to coat, serve hot. Pass extra Parmesan at the table, if desired.

Mixed Greens and Roasted Peppers in Lemon Vinaigrette MAKES 4 SERVINGS

A bag of greens and jarred roasted peppers combine to make an effortless salad. Making your own dressing just takes a moment, and it is so much fresher and tastier than bottled dressings—you’ll be glad you did. Next time, try a different mix of greens for variety. 4 cups mixed greens (1 4-ounce container) 1 large roasted red pepper, drained and patted dry, chopped

Dressing ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice ½ teaspoon dried thyme ½ teaspoon sugar ½ teaspoon salt a few grinds freshly ground black pepper

1. Place the mixed greens in a large salad bowl and sprinkle with roasted red pepper pieces. 2. In a jar, combine the olive oil, lemon juice, thyme, sugar, salt and pepper and tightly seal the lid. Shake vigorously to mix, then pour the dressing over the salad. Toss to coat, and serve immediately.

GREEK MEATLOAF: PER SERVING: CALORIES 345 (162 from fat); FAT 18g (sat. 8g); CHOL 163mg; SODIUM 715mg; CARB 13g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 30g

GREEK SPINACH SALAD: PER SERVING: CALORIES 138 (94 from fat); FAT 11g (sat. 1g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 341mg; CARB 10g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 3g

CHICKEN PESTO SANDWICHES: PER SERVING: CALORIES 538 (116 from fat); FAT 13g (sat. 3g); CHOL 89mg; SODIUM 1069mg; CARB 58g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 45g

CHINESE MEATBALL SOUP: PER SERVING: CALORIES 169 (60 from fat); FAT 7g (sat. 2g); CHOL 36mg; SODIUM 399mg; CARB 12g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 15g

CHICKEN CACCIATORE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 308 (132 from fat); FAT 15g (sat. 4g); CHOL 163mg; SODIUM 478mg; CARB 8g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 35g

FETTUCCINE W. GARLIC & PARSLEY: PER SERVING: CALORIES 482 (154 from fat); FAT 18g (sat. 4g); CHOL 10mg; SODIUM 785mg; CARB 69g; FIBER 9g; PROTEIN 19g

38 real food fall 2017

½ 12 ½ ½

MIXED GREENS IN LEMON VINAIGRETTE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 139 (121 from fat); FAT 14g (sat. 2g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 414mg; CARB 5g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 1g

HAM IN TARRAGON-DIJON GLAZE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 297 (102 from fat); FAT 11g (sat. 3g); CHOL 99mg; SODIUM 2902mg; CARB 6g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 40g

BROWN RICE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 226 (23 from fat); FAT 3g (sat. 0g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 15mg; CARB 46g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 5g

CARROT-RAISIN SALAD: PER SERVING: CALORIES 134 (3 from fat); FAT 0g (sat. 0g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 221mg; CARB 34g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 2g

Ham in Tarragon-Dijon Glaze

Carrot-Raisin Salad

MAKES ABOUT 8 SERVINGS

Most baked hams involve either scoring or trimming the ham before baking. You can certainly do that, but you might want to try this method. This way is faster, because you simply bake the ham, then slip the skin off and coat with glaze. If you buy a more processed ham with no skin, simply follow the instructions, skipping that step. 1 6- to 8-pound ham, fully cooked bone-in, skin-on, smoked ½ cup Dijon mustard 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

2 1 1 1

tablespoons light brown sugar teaspoon tarragon teaspoon celery seed teaspoon salt

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a sturdy rimmed baking sheet with foil, and place the ham, cut side down, on it. Cover with parchment and foil and bake for 11⁄2 hours. When an instant read thermometer inserted in the meat registers 135°F, take out the ham and increase the heat to 425°F. 2. While the ham bakes, place the Dijon mustard, apple cider vinegar, brown sugar, tarragon, celery seeds and salt in a small bowl and stir to mix. 3. Let the ham stand for about 5 minutes to cool slightly. Fold two paper towels to make a pad to use to handle the ham skin. Use a sharp knife to slice through the skin from top to bottom. Strip off the skin, holding it carefully with the paper towels and using the knife to slip between the skin and the meat. The fat will be soft and the skin should slip away easily. 4. Spread the mustard mixture thickly over the ham and bake 20 minutes, or until the mustard glaze is browned. Let stand 15 minutes before slicing. Cook’s Notes: • A 6- to 8-pound bone-in ham should serve about 8. Make the big ham for 4 or 5 and save the leftovers. Once the ham is cooled, slice or cube the remaining meat and portion it into freezer bags or containers. Add to omelets, quiches and other egg dishes. Ham and cheddar tossed with noodles, ham-fried rice, and ham studded cornbread are great side dishes that stretch a few slices for a whole meal. Save the bone for navy bean or split pea soup. (You can freeze that, too!) • A side of mashed potatoes goes well with ham—this is where your staples come in handy: To make 8 servings, boil 3 pounds peeled potatoes until fork tender, then mash and add 1⁄2 cup milk or half-and-half, 1⁄4 cup butter, add salt and pepper, adjusting milk and salt and pepper to taste.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Use the shredding disk of your food processor to make this salad in a snap. Even if you use a hand grater, it’s so easy you’ll want to make it often. It also keeps for a few days, and adds a welcome pop of color and sweetness to a meal. 1 pound carrots, peeled and shredded 2 medium scallions, chopped ½ cup raisins ¼ cup fresh lemon juice 2 tablespoons honey ¼ teaspoon salt 1. Place the shredded carrots, scallions and raisins in a large bowl. 2. In a cup, stir the lemon juice, honey and salt, then pour over the carrot mixture. Toss to mix well. This gets better as it sits, so let it marinate for 1 hour if you have time. You can transfer to a storage container and refrigerate, tightly covered, for up to 4 days. ■

fall 2017 real food 39

40 real food fall 2017

Beyond the Daily Grind Delicious dishes are brewing when coffee is added to the mix

steamy cup of coffee is a great way to start your morning, but it can also add a delicious layer of flavor to dishes from breakfast through dessert. For sweet recipes,

pairing chocolate and coffee is probably the most popular and easiest to work with, notes Brandi Evans in her book Cooking with Coffee. They play off and balance each other while bringing out each other’s best qualities. The rich flavors of vanilla and brown sugar also pair well with coffee, regardless of whether you’re using a fruity, more tart coffee or a smoky, earthy bean. To make a savory recipe with coffee, it is most important to factor in whether the coffee you are using has hints of fruity, tart, smoky or earthy flavors to balance with flavors in the dish. For example, either a fruity or smoky coffee works well in salad dressing but you want to add a little sweetener such as maple syrup or honey to help balance—plus the vinegar and oil bring richness and zing. In main dishes, the smokiness and heat of peppers and chilies as well as smoky spices such as paprika and chili powders pair perfectly with coffee, suggests Evans. Luckily, she has done all the work creating a whole book of recipes using coffee, some of which we highlight here—so you can enjoy the touch of coffee in these and then try your hand at incorporating the rich taste of coffee in your favorite recipes. —Mary Subialka

fall 2017 real food 41

Chicken Enchiladas with Quick Coffee Ranchero Sauce MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

If you’re looking for a great savory recipe to start out with, these enchiladas are quick and easy! I usually get a rotisserie chicken to save myself even more time on busy weeknights, but you could also cook a batch of chicken on the weekends and have it ready to go. The sauce is sweet and smoky, and the enchiladas come together in no time.

OPENER PHOTO KARANDAEV - FOTOLIA.COM COFFEE ILLUSTRATION ROMAN SIGAEV - FOTOLIA.COM

Sauce 1½ cups crushed tomatoes ½ cup chicken or vegetable broth ½ cup brewed coffee, chilled 1 tablespoon brown sugar 1½ teaspoons garlic powder 1½ teaspoons onion powder 2 teaspoons chili powder ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon pepper Enchiladas 8 to 9 corn or flour tortillas 2 cups cooked chicken, chopped 1 cup cheese, shredded ¼ cup scallions ¼ cup cilantro 1. Preheat oven to 350°F. 2. Mix all the sauce ingredients together in a medium bowl. 3. Spoon about 3 tablespoons of the sauce into the bottom of a 9 x 13-inch baking dish. 4. Heat the tortillas in the microwave, covered with a damp paper towel, for 20 to 30 seconds. 5. Take 1 tortilla, add about 3 to 4 spoonfuls of chicken and a spoonful of sauce. Roll up the tortilla and place seam-side down in the pan. Repeat until all the tortillas and chicken are used and pan is full. Top the enchiladas with more sauce and the cheese. Bake 25 to 30 minutes. 6. Sprinkle the scallions and cilantro over the top and serve.

42 real food fall 2017

WHY IS COFFEE REFERRED TO AS “JOE”? One theory is that it started in the Navy. Secretary of the Navy Josephus Daniels apparently banned alcohol aboard naval vessels, leaving coffee as the strongest drink on the ships. The disgruntled, and now sober, sailors weren’t happy with the change and began referring to their coffee as a “cup of Joe.” —B.E.

Coffee Maple Vinaigrette MAKES ABOUT 1⁄2 CUP DRESSING

A few years ago, I fell in love with a maple vinaigrette dressing and since then, I haven’t been able to stop thinking of ways to make it even more delicious. Whenever I think of maple syrup, I automatically think of coffee as well. Maybe because maple syrup is usually a part of breakfast and coffee is definitely a part of breakfast. The coffee provides the perfect base for this dressing, but it’s not overwhelming. Even non-coffee drinkers will love this salad dressing!

Smoky Black Bean Soup MAKES 10 TO 12 SERVINGS

The inspiration for this soup recipe is one that was handed to me from one of my husband’s cousins, and it has quickly become a family favorite. It really is the perfect black bean soup—not completely creamy, but not too chunky. Everything is cooked just right, and the bacon and coffee add just the right amount of smokiness. I always top my bowl with fresh lime juice, diced avocado, and some shredded cheese—plus a few tortilla chips thrown in for good measure. 4 2 2 3 3 4 1 1 2 2

slices bacon tablespoons olive oil medium onions, chopped carrots, diced celery ribs, sliced cloves garlic, minced teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes tablespoon tomato paste tablespoons balsamic vinegar tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

1 2 2 3½ 1½ 4

(28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes tablespoons cumin tablespoons smoked paprika cups chicken or vegetable broth cups brewed coffee (15-ounce) cans black beans, rinsed and drained 2 tablespoons cornstarch 2 tablespoons water 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

2 tablespoons brewed coffee, cooled 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar 1 tablespoon pure maple syrup 4 tablespoons olive oil 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard ¼ teaspoon salt ⅛ teaspoon black pepper 1. Whisk all ingredients together until the Dijon is incorporated. Serve over your favorite salad. Cook’s Note: This dressing goes especially well with goat or feta cheese, apples, dried cherries or other dried fruits and nuts. The dressing itself is fairly balanced, so it really can go with any salad where you would normally use a vinaigrette.

1. Dice bacon and add to a large pot over medium heat. Once the bacon starts releasing its fat, add in the olive oil, onions, carrots and celery and cook together 3 to 5 minutes until the vegetables begin to soften. 2. Stir in the garlic, crushed red pepper flakes and tomato paste, and cook for another 2 to 3 minutes. 3. Pour in the balsamic vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, crushed tomatoes, cumin, smoked paprika, broth, coffee and beans. Bring the soup to a boil, cover the pot, and lower the heat to a simmer. Cook 20 to 30 minutes. 4. In a liquid measuring cup or small bowl, mix the cornstarch with 2 tablespoons of water and pour the mixture into the soup. Let it cook another 5 to 10 minutes until slightly thickened. 5. Stir in the lime juice before serving. Cook’s Note: You can also purée part of the soup if you’d like it a little creamier.

fall 2017 real food 43

Coffee and White Chocolate Chip Coffee Cake MAKES 12 SERVINGS

Growing up, I always thought coffee cake was made with coffee. Turns out, most recipes don’t include it in the ingredients! Since I love the flavor of coffee—especially in baked goods, and alongside a cup of coffee—I came up with a coffee cake that uses instant espresso for a punch of coffee flavor and white chocolate chips for some sweetness. Cake 1 cup buttermilk ⅓ cup vegetable or safflower oil ⅓ cup sugar 1½ tablespoons instant espresso 1 teaspoon vanilla extract ¾ cup all-purpose flour ¾ cup white whole-wheat flour 2 teaspoons baking powder ½ teaspoon salt ¾ cup white chocolate chips

Streusel ½ cup all-purpose flour ⅓ cup brown sugar, packed ¼ cup granulated sugar ¼ cup quick oats 4 tablespoons butter, melted

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. 2. In a medium bowl, mix the buttermilk, oil, sugar, espresso and vanilla together. Stir in the flours, baking powder and salt. Fold in the white chocolate chips. Pour batter into an 8 x 8-inch baking dish. 3. For the streusel: In a small bowl, mix the flour, brown sugar, granulated sugar, oats and melted butter together. Sprinkle the streusel topping over the top of the batter. Bake 35 to 40 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the cake comes out clean.

Coffee Caramel Sauce MAKES ABOUT 11⁄2 CUPS SAUCE

Any time you have a homemade caramel sauce, you know it’s going to be a good thing. Adding coffee to an already delicious caramel sauce? That takes it over the top! I especially love this drizzled over scoops of chocolate and coffee ice cream. 1⅓ ⅓ 1 2

cups sugar cup water cup heavy cream tablespoons brewed coffee, cooled 2 teaspoons instant espresso 1 tablespoon salted butter 1 teaspoon salt

1. Mix the sugar and water in a heavy saucepan over medium heat, whisking until the sugar is completely dissolved. Bring the mixture to a boil, letting it cook until it turns a golden brown, about 10 to 20 minutes. Once the syrup has a nice golden brown color, remove the pan from the heat and stir in the heavy cream. The mixture will bubble up and splatter. Let the mixture settle before stirring. 2. Return the pan to low heat and stir in the brewed coffee, instant espresso, butter and salt. Serve immediately and warm, or cool in the refrigerator until ready to use.

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Coffee Cocoa Crinkle Cookies MAKES ABOUT 3 DOZEN COOKIES

Light, airy, crispy on the outside, chewy on the inside. These crinkle cookies are a cinch to pull together. Try something different for your next holiday cookie swap or potluck and make these. 3 ¾ 2 1 ¾

cups powdered sugar cup unsweetened cocoa powder tablespoons instant espresso tablespoon cornstarch teaspoon salt

2 1 2 1

egg whites egg teaspoons vanilla extract cup dark chocolate chips

COFFEE CHERRIES VIDEOWOKART - FOTOLIA.COM

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. 2. In a large bowl, whisk the powdered sugar with the cocoa powder, espresso, cornstarch and salt. Stir in the egg whites, whole egg and vanilla. Fold in the chocolate chips. 3. Drop the dough by tablespoon onto a parchment-lined baking sheet, about 2 inches apart. Bake 12 to 14 minutes until puffed and crinkled on top. Cool 5 minutes before moving to a wire rack. ■

DID YOU KNOW? What we call coffee beans are actually the seeds of “coffee cherries,” the fruit that grows on coffee trees, most of which are grown in the “bean belt” that circles the Earth a bit north and south of the equator. Each coffee cherry contains two seeds or “beans.” It takes approximately 2,000 cherries (4,000 beans) to produce one pound of roasted coffee. —M.S.

NUTRITION

CHICKEN ENCHILADAS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 317 (116 from fat); FAT 13g (s a t . 6 g) ; C H O L 7 2 m g ; SODIUM 745mg; CARB 26g; FIBER 5g; PROTEIN 25g

BLACK BEAN SOUP: PER SERVING: CALORIES 2 74 (7 2 f ro m fa t) ; FAT 8g (sat. 2g); CHOL 7mg; SODIUM 929mg; CARB 40g; FIBER 14g; PROTEIN 12g

VINAIGRETTE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 137 (120 from fat); FAT 14g (sat. 2g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 179mg; CARB 4g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 0g

COFFEE CAKE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 290 (116 from fat); FAT 13g (sat. 6g); CHOL 11mg; SODIUM 276mg; CARB 40g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 4g

CARAMEL SAUCE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 153 (63 from fat); FAT 7g (sat. 4g); CHOL 25mg; SODIUM 211mg; CARB 23g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 0g

CRINKLE COOKIES: PER SERVING: CALORIES 75 (20 from fat); FAT 2g (sat. 1g); CHOL 5mg; SODIUM 55mg; CARB 14g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 1g

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Protein

POWER

Pork is a versatile protein choice from quick weeknight meals to easy entertaining t is often said that bacon makes everything better. But beyond this beloved sweet and salty preparation of pork, there are many cuts of the meat that offer a great range of menu options that may also inspire

such affection. From quick-and-easy pork chops or spicy tacos to elegantly presented bacon-wrapped medallions or barbecued pulled pork for a crowd, these recipes courtesy of the National Pork Board serve up a variety of ideas to add to your repertoire. There are also bacon “bits” to keep the love alive. —Mary Subialka

Apple Cinnamon Pork Chops MAKES 4 SERVINGS, COURTESY OF ALI EBRIGHT, GIMMESOMEOVEN.COM FOR THE NATIONAL PORK BOARD

4 bone-in ribeye (rib) pork chops, about ¾-inch thick salt and pepper, to taste 3 tablespoons butter, divided 2 apples, peeled, cored and thinly sliced 1 large white onion, halved and thinly sliced

2 tablespoons brown sugar, packed 2 teaspoons cinnamon pinch cayenne ⅔ cup apple cider ⅓ cup heavy cream

1. Generously season the chops with salt and pepper on both sides. Set aside. 2. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, melt 2 tablespoons of butter. Immediately add the pork chops and cook until brown, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate and set aside. 3. Return the skillet to medium-high heat and melt remaining 1 tablespoon of butter. Add the apples and onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is translucent, about 5 minutes. 4. Stir in the brown sugar, cinnamon and cayenne. Stir in the apple cider and cream. Add the pork chops, nestling them into the liquid, and cook until the internal temperature of the pork reaches between 145°F. (medium rare) and 160°F. (medium), 3 to 4 minutes per side. Serve the chops with the apple mixture spooned on top. Cook’s Note: If you want to make these chops a little lighter, you can substitute apple cider or chicken stock for some or all of the cream. Consider serving with mashed potatoes or cooked carrots.

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ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE NATIONAL PORK BOARD UNLESS NOTED

The fresh, sweet-tart flavor of apples is a classic companion with pork chops. And here, the duo spices up an easy dinner with a little sweet and a little heat for a twist on the match.

APPLE CINNAMON PORK CHOPS

Bacon-Wrapped Pork Medallions with Garlic-Mustard Butter

Garlic Mustard Butter

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Bacon lends its smoky flavor to tenderloin medallions and they get an added boost of flavor topped with Garlic-Mustard Butter. Baked sweet potatoes and steamed cauliflower would make delicious sides. Cooking directions for three different methods are included. 1 pork tenderloin, 1 to 1¼ pounds 4 slices bacon, hickory-smoked salt and pepper, to taste Garlic-Mustard Butter (recipe right) 1. Cut tenderloin in 8 slices (medallions) approximately 1 to 1¼-inch wide. Place 2 slices (medallions) together and wrap 1 bacon slice around both pieces to hold together to make pork “mignons.” Secure with wooden pick. Repeat with remaining pork. Season both sides with salt and pepper and spray lightly with cooking spray. 2. Broil or grill per directions below, according to preference. (While pork is cooking, make Garlic Mustard Butter.) Broil: Preheat broiler to 500°F. Broil pork mignons about 4 inches from heat source for 4 to 5 minutes per side or until internal temperature reaches 145°F, followed by a 3-minute rest time. Pan-broil: Heat skillet or grill pan over high heat; add pork mignons. Lower heat to mediumhigh; cook (uncovered) for 4 minutes or until nicely browned. Turn; cook an additional 4 to 5 minutes or until internal temperature reached 145°F, followed by a 3-minute rest time. Grill: Preheat grill to 400°F. Place pork mignons directly over high heat. Close grill lid; grill for 4 to 5 minutes per side or until internal temperature reaches 145°F, followed by a 3-minute rest time. 3. Remove wooden picks and serve with Garlic-Mustard Butter.

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4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter, softened to room temperature 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 1 clove garlic, minced 1. In a small bowl, stir together ingredients until well mixed. Wrap in waxed paper to shape like a stick of butter. Chill while pork is cooking. 2. When ready to serve, cut into 4 slices and top each pork mignon with 1 slice before serving.

Adobo Pork Tacos MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Flavorful tacos are always a hit any day of the week or when entertaining. Serve these with warm corn or flour tortillas and guests can create their own tacos with a variety of toppings. Mexican Adobo Rub ¼ cup sweet paprika 1 tablespoon black pepper 1 tablespoon onion powder 2 teaspoons garlic powder 1 tablespoon cumin 2 tablespoons canned chipotle chile in adobo sauce, crushed 1 teaspoon dried oregano 2 tablespoons kosher salt, or to taste

1½ pound pork loin, cut into ¾-inch chops 2 tablespoons olive oil 8 corn or flour tortillas Toppings pico de gallo, guacamole, sour cream, cotija cheese, beans, radishes, lime wedges and cilantro

1. For Mexican Adobo Rub: In a medium-sized bowl, combine all the ingredients and mix to form a rub. 2. Season pork with Mexican Adobo rub, making sure pork is well coated with the mixture. 3. Heat olive oil in frying pan over medium heat and sear the pork chops approximately 6 minutes on each side. Cook pork to an internal temperature as shown on a digital thermometer between 145°F and 160°F. Remove pork from the frying pan and let rest 10 to 15 minutes before slicing into ¼ inch strips. 4. Serve with warm corn or flour tortillas. Have guests create their own tacos with bowls of pico de gallo, guacamole, sour cream, cotija cheese, beans, radishes, lime wedges and cilantro.

WHAT ARE THE LEANEST CUTS OF PORK? Many cuts of fresh pork are leaner today than they were two decades ago—on average, about 16 percent lower in total fat and 27 percent lower in saturated fat. Seven cuts meet the USDA’s guidelines for “lean” or “extra lean.” An easy way to remember lean cuts is to look for the word “loin” on the label, such as loin chop or pork tenderloin. Pork tenderloin is as lean as skinless chicken breast. A 3-ounce serving of pork tenderloin contains 2.98 grams of fat, in line with a 3-ounce serving of skinless chicken breast, which contains 3.03 grams of fat. For more information about pork, visit PorkBeInspired.com.

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Perfect Pulled Pork MAKES 16 TO 20 SERVINGS

Whether you’re hosting a party and need a meal for many or looking for a recipe that will generate leftovers for several days, pulled pork is a great solution. This recipe works well for sandwiches and atop the BBQ Pulled Pork Pizza. 1½ 2 1 1 1 ½ 5 1

teaspoons smoked paprika teaspoons black pepper teaspoon cayenne teaspoon dried thyme teaspoon garlic powder teaspoon salt pound boneless blade pork roast cup water

1. Combine all the seasonings in a small bowl. Rub seasoning mixture evenly over roast. Place meat in a 6-quart slow cooker. Add water. Cover and cook on LOW for 6 to 8 hours or HIGH for 4 to 5 hours, or until pork is very tender. 2. Remove pork to a large cutting board or platter and let rest for 10 to 15 minutes. Pull, slice or chop to serve. For Sandwiches: Serve in buns with your favorite homemade or bottled barbecue sauce and nothing could be simpler. Serve with baked beans, coleslaw and potato chips.

BBQ Pulled Pork Pizza MAKES 3 TO 4 SERVINGS

Switch up the usual pizza night and top the pie with barbecue sauce and Perfect Pulled Pork. For a quick meal, you can use your favorite store-bought pizza dough (you’ll need about ¾ pound) or a ready-made pizza crust. Toppings ¼ cup barbecue sauce, purchased or homemade ½ cup shredded cheese, smoked Gouda or smoked mozzarella, mozzarella or Monterey Jack 6 ounces cooked pulled pork (see recipe left) 3 scallions, cut into 1-inch pieces 1. Preheat the oven, along with a pizza stone if you have one, to 500°F, or the temperature specified for your packaged dough or ready-made crust. 2. On a lightly floured surface, roll or stretch dough out to a 12to 14-inch round. Transfer the dough to a pizza pan or a flour- or cornmeal-dusted pizza paddle. Top with the barbecue sauce, cheese, pork and scallions. Transfer the pizza to the oven and bake until golden and crisp, about 10 to 12 minutes, depending on crust of choice. Cut into wedges and serve.

NUTRITION

Cook’s Note: To vary the pizza, try it with different cheeses, or try adding thinly sliced red onion or chopped fresh cilantro. ■

PORK CHOPS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 501 (244 from fat); FAT 27g (sat. 14g); CHOL 147mg; SODIUM 142mg; CARB 27g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 37g

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BACON-WRAPPED PORK MEDALLIONS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 297 (173 from fat); FAT 19g (sat. 10g); CHOL 107mg; SODIUM 345mg; CARB 1g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 29g

ADOBO PORK TACOS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 515; FAT 22g (sat. 6g); CHOL 85mg; SODIUM 3469mg; CARB 39g; FIBER 6g; PROTEIN 39g

PULLED PORK SANDWICHES: PER SERVING: CALORIES 210; FAT 10g (sat. 3g); CHOL 95mg; SODIUM 170mg; CARB 1g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 28g

BBQ PULLED PORK PIZZA: PER SERVING (could vary per crust used): CALORIES 400; FAT 10g (sat. 3g); CHOL 40mg; SODIUM 1090mg; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 22g

Bacon Bits

The savory sweet flavor of bacon alongside breakfast favorites or incorporated into dinner is hard to beat—and it has also popped up in unexpected ways in sweets. What is bacon? It is side pork (the side of a pig) that has been cured and smoked. Since the fat gives bacon its sweet flavor and tender crispness, the proportion is generally half to two-thirds of the total weight. There is a world of bacon to adore, including the following varieties.

BACON DALE - FOTOLIA.COM PANCETTA TIMOLINA - FOTOLIA.COM OVEN BACON AFRICA STUDIO - FOTOLIA.COM

Canadian Bacon: This lean, smoked meat is closer to ham than it is to regular bacon. It’s taken from the lean, tender eye of the loin. It comes in a cylindrical chunk that can be sliced or cut in any way. It tends to cost more than regular bacon, but since it is leaner and precooked (meaning less shrinkage) it provides more servings per pound. It can be fried, baked, barbecued or used cold right from the package in sandwiches and salads. Lardons: French salt-cured, unsmoked fatback is usually used in food preparation and also fried and added to dishes. It’s used in Julia Childs’ classic Boeuf Bourguignon and Coq au Vin. Pancetta: Pronounced “pan-CHEH-tuh,” this Italian bacon is cured with salt and spices but not smoked. Flavorful and slightly salty, it comes in sausage-like rolls. It is used to flavor sauces, pasta, meat dishes and vegetables. Speck: The German word for “bacon,” this comes from the belly or side, and is dry-cured and heavily smoked. Speck Alto Adige: A delicacy from the Alto Adige region of northeastern Italy that is similar to prosciutto—made from the hind leg and dry-cured with salt and spices, cold-smoked for a short time and aged for several months. Like prosciutto, it’s often served uncooked in paper-thin slices as charcuterie.

PANCETTA

Tips and Tricks

BAKIN’ BACON Cooking bacon in the oven is a great way to prepare it—no flipping is required and the evenness of the oven temp ensures the strips are perfectly crispy. It is also a great way to cook bacon for a large gathering. While you might only fit 3 to 4 strips in a frying pan, you can fit about 1 pound on a sheet pan for baking. But avoid crowding the bacon. Leaving some room in between strips while cooking allows the heat to circulate evenly, which makes crispy bacon. To Cook: Preheat the oven to 400°F. Lay slices either on a parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet(s) or roasting rack in a shallow pan to catch the drippings. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes, depending on thickness of bacon and desired doneness. Transfer strips to paper towel to drain. Tip: Keep it Together If packaged sliced bacon is cold from the refrigerator, slowly slide the dull edge of a butter knife along the length between the strips to separate slices without stretching or ripping them.

fall 2017 real food 51

52 real food fall 2017

A Family Affair Simple and delicious Italian cooking is a way of life for Fabio Viviani, his wife and their young son BY AUBREY SCHIELD

Fabio Viviani began his culinary journey young, working the night shift at a bakery in his hometown of Florence, Italy at age 11. Night after night, Viviani traipsed to the nearby bakery to work from midnight to 7 a.m., learning the ins and outs of making food professionally. At 14, the young chef-to-be began working at Il Pallaio, an iconic Florentine restaurant. As his peers busied themselves with the typical teenage lifestyle, Viviani proved his salt as a chef and was promoted to be the restaurant’s sous chef at 16. In 1992, he went on to study Italian and Mediterranean cooking at IPSSAR Saffi, a regional school in Florence, but has always leaned on his years of training in restaurant kitchens. “Learning different cuisines very early in my life gave me a little bit of an edge,” Viviani says of his time as a young chef at Il Pallaio. “By the time most of my peers got out of culinary school, I had already been in the business for almost 10 years.” Given the trajectory of success he was on, it’s no surprise that by the time Viviani was 27 he owned and operated five restaurants and two nightclubs in Florence. He was a bit of a Renaissance man, dabbling in all forms of food and hospitality service his hometown had to offer. But in 2005, he decided to make a change and began planning to move to the United States. After selling his businesses and giving most of the money to his family, which at the same time was experiencing financial setbacks, Viviani moved to California. In the next several years, he would experience newfound success in the United States, opening a host of restaurants, including Cafe Firenze, an authentic Italian eatery and cocktail lounge in Moorpark,

California; Siena Tavern in Chicago; Mercato, a fast-casual Italian restaurant with six national locations; Chicago’s Bar Siena; and the upscale steakhouse Prime & Provisions. Viviani currently lives in Chicago with his family, but his popularity stretches across the nation, with new restaurant openings in New York, Michigan, Ohio and Arizona this year. Viviani’s laundry list of restaurants in the United States make him a familiar name on the culinary scene, but what really put this Italian transplant on the map was his appearance on TV in season five of Bravo’s Top Chef cooking competition show in 2008. Though he didn’t win the competition, he earned the season’s “Fan Favorite” title, along with the respect of his fellow competitors. Talking to Viviani, it’s readily apparent why Top Chef viewers fell in love with this charismatic chef whose every word is spoken with a thick Italian accent. He has sparkling energy you don’t see every day, and the care and passion he has for food translate into just about everything he does. Top Chef might be responsible for making “Fabio Viviani” a recognizable name in the United States, but it turns out that he was reluctant to appear on television in the first place. The producers of Top Chef had approached Viviani twice asking him to compete before he agreed. The timing simply wasn’t right; Viviani had just been married to his first wife and felt he had enough going for him in the restaurant business. Later on, after his first marriage ended, Viviani felt he could use “a little vacation” and agreed to compete on the show in its fifth season.

fall 2017 real food 53

Fabio Viviani with son Gage and wife Ashley

“Food on television looks a lot different than it does on the plate. When you cook at home, I don’t care if it looks like road kill. If it tastes good and it’s good for you, that’s all that matters.” —Fabio Viviani —F

54 real food fall 2017

His experience cooking for television proved much different than cooking for himself and his family. While cooking on TV has to look a certain way and “fit the bill,” Viviani believes in making good food no matter what the finished product looks like. “Food on television looks a lot different than it does on the plate,” he says. “When you cook at home, I don’t care if it looks like road kill. If it tastes good and it’s good for you, that’s all that matters.” Since his stint on Top Chef Chef, Viviani has appeared on several shows as a guest chef, including Good Morning America, The Rachael Ray Show, The Chew and Food Network’s Cutthroat Kitchen. Earlier this year, he also launched Fabio’s Kitchen, an online cooking series in which he explores authentic Italian recipes and techniques. It’s no secret that Viviani has been successful in the American restaurant business and has simultaneously made a name for himself on the food scene, but his true inspiration in the kitchen comes from his desire to provide for his family—his wife of three years, Ashley, and 2-year-old son, Gage. Viviani says he is looking forward to sharing his passion for food with Gage as he gets older, and teaching him the value of cooking for yourself and consuming good, healthy food. “I can’t wait [to cook with Gage],” he says excitedly. “He’s already trying to get around with spoons and pots and pans. For now, he just bangs them together and makes noises,” laughs Viviani.

Food has always been a family affair for the chef. When he was a child, his family couldn’t afford the best ingredients, so they made do. But Viviani is quick to assure that didn’t mean delicious food wasn’t enjoyed. That experience taught him to care for food as it is being prepared and get the most out of whatever he is cooking. Viviani has written four cookbooks, sharing his love of Italian cooking with an American audience: Café Firenze Cookbook, Fabio’s Italian Kitchen, Fabio’s American Home Kitchen and his newest, released earlier this year, Fabio’s 30-Minute Italian. In the prologue of the new book, Viviani shares a story of cooking with his great-grandmother, who had a unique way of getting her young, energetic great-grandson to quiet down long enough to bake a cake. A truly ingenious woman, she turned to the young Viviani after putting a pan of cake batter in the oven and, with one finger pressed to her lips, said, “Shhhh! The cake is sleeping.” Cooking with his family as a kid and watching his mother prepare meals continues to influence Viviani’s craft. Because the family was busy with work, his mother didn’t have a lot of time to prepare grandiose meals every evening. And now, as the father of a young son (not to mention the myriad restaurants and business ventures that keep him busy), Viviani has found that the key to cooking for yourself and your family is efficiency. That’s the primary goal of Fabio’s 30-Minute Italian. He says that the book is for anyone— regardless of experience in the kitchen—who needs to put together a meal that tastes great and makes people happy. The purpose of sharing a meal with someone is, after all, actually enjoying the food together; you shouldn’t be spending hours preparing something that you’ll eat in 30 minutes, he says. “You can make most dishes in less than 10 to 20 minutes with some tricks on how to prepare ahead, how to store properly, how to prep certain things in advance, and how to batch cook,” Viviani explains. The book provides practical advice on how to cook more efficiently and prepare for meals ahead of time. Batch cooking whenever possible, for example, can save you an immense amount of time in the kitchen. Once a month, Viviani cooks a huge pot of ossobuco, a traditional Italian dish with braised veal and vegetables, for his family. He cooks around

20 pieces, eats a couple right away, and individually packs the rest to be saved in the freezer. Then, he can easily reheat them in about 10 minutes by simply bringing a pot of water to boil; that’s a meal that would take close to an hour if made from scratch. He also recommends batch cooking sauces and vinaigrettes. Take one week and make a different sauce, seasoning or vinaigrette each night. Make more than you need and freeze the rest; by the end of the week, you will have seven different sauces that can easily be added to dishes to complete an entrée. While the title of his book implies speed, Viviani doesn’t recommend haste. After all, he learned from his mentors in the various kitchens in Italy that cooking is about precision and attention to detail. He recalls one mentor telling him, “Do it right or do it twice.” So diminishing the amount of time you spend in the kitchen is about preparing ahead and making the most of your time. “Smart people are not fast people,” he explains. “Smart people understand that time is a concept, and efficiency is the key. No one, not even me, has the time to prepare, head to toe, a three-course meal every day of the week.” If there is anything that influences Viviani’s cooking more than his family, it is his Italian heritage—and that is evident in Fabio’s 30-Minute Italian, which takes authentic Italian recipes and makes them more accessible for home cooks. So whether you’re rolling out your own homemade pasta or boiling a pot of store-bought noodles, make the recipe work for you. For example, Viviani’s Cavatappi with “Italian Chorizo” and Braised Beans (right) leaves some room for you to customize the dish to your liking. Viviani’s popularity as a chef and cookbook author has grown consistently since he rolled the dice and moved to the United States. His success culminated earlier this year in his induction into the Chicago Culinary Museum and Chefs Hall of Fame. It’s not about the fame and recognition for him though. For Viviani, cooking is all about providing for his family and making people happy. “Everything I do is for my family,” he says. “The nicest moment of my day is when we sit down and eat together.” ■

Cavatappi with “Italian Chorizo” and Braised Beans MAKES 3 TO 4 SERVINGS

The sauce for this cooks as quickly as the pasta, and while I love to make my own pasta, boxed Cavatappi is just fine. What you need is chunky macaroni. You could use black or pinto beans instead of white beans, and naturally, canned are just fine. I am calling spicy Italian sausage “Italian Chorizo,” but if you have the “real thing” feel free to use it. 2 1 ¾ 8 1 2 8 5 ½ ½

tablespoons vegetable oil teaspoon red chili flakes cup minced onion ounces spicy Italian sausage, cooked and sliced into ¼-inch-thick rounds salt and pepper, to taste cup canned Great Northern beans, rinsed cups chicken broth ounces dried Cavatappi pasta tablespoons butter cup arugula cup Grana Padano cheese, separated

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. While water is starting to boil, add oil to a skillet. Add the red chili flakes, onion and sausage and cook for 5 minutes on medium-high heat. Season with salt and pepper. 2. Stir in the beans and broth. Bring to a boil and reduce by half, about 6 to 7 minutes. 3. When water is boiling, add Cavatappi and cook until desired doneness, around 5 to 6 minutes for al dente. 4. Once broth mixture is reduced, turn heat to low and melt in butter to form the sauce. Add the arugula and cooked pasta. Stir pasta until sauce coats it. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. If sauce has reduced too much, add a touch of pasta water. 5. Mix half the cheese into the pasta, then when plating, use the other half as garnish.

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pairings

Royal Red Cabernet reigns supreme with full-flavored foods BY MARY SUBIALKA

ften called the “king” of red wine, Cabernet Sauvignon has earned this noble reputation through its history as the dominant grape in the classic wines of Bordeaux, France. Its rich flavor, structure, complexity and aging potential have also made it a popular option to grow around the globe, and New World winemaking areas have stepped up with their royal offerings. Cabernet is a thick-skinned grape that yields a juice rich in tannins. This accounts for the variety’s solid structure and aging capability, but it can also contribute a mouth-drying astringency. The Bordeaux model carefully blends in a bit of another grape variety (usually Merlot or Syrah) to soften the juice without lessening the characteristics Cab lovers seek. If you are leery of Cabernet’s potentially harsh tannins, you may be pleasantly surprised by Australian options, as winemakers there are known for mellowing these tannins with the sweet vanillin of a little aging in new oak barrels. Try Cabs from the Coonawarra region, as well as McLaren Vale and Barossa Valley. Wines made with Cabernet Sauvignon grapes were the first to put California on the international winemaking map. These powerful, age-worthy wines have also become lusher and more complex in recent decades. Winemakers have honed techniques to play off the varietal’s characteristic tannins but ripen the grapes a little longer to soften them, resulting in a little softer palate feel. Strong is the word of the day when pairing this wine with food. Strong cheeses, including blue, Camembert and vintage cheddar are good choices, as are strongly-flavored legume-based vegetarian dishes featuring chickpeas or fava beans (just avoid spicy dishes). The rich flavors of beef are a classic pairing, especially when the meat is braised, grilled or stewed and seasoned with bay leaves, basil, oregano or rosemary. Full-flavored fish such as tuna, as well as pheasant and quail can stand up to the lighter Cabs. For dessert try bittersweet chocolate treats. ■

PHOTO BY TERRY BRENNAN; FOOD STYLED BY LARA MIKLASEVICS

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