Lunds & Byerlys REAL FOOD Winter 2017 by Lunds & Byerlys

Lunds & Byerlys real food winter 2017

Lunds & Byerlys

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WINTER 2017

COMPLIMENTARY

the

volume 13 number 4

Love for Leftovers

FREE

Bring new luster to holiday dinners

PARTY FARE: Savory bites to share SWEET HOLIDAYS: Creative cookies to serve or give PAIRING PRINCIPLES: Delicious cheese partners for wine and beer

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Those who love to cook make more than food in the kitchen. They make the most of every moment together—sharing stories, creating delicious flavors and simply enjoying the company of close friends. For more than 80 years, Le Creuset has been a part of these special times, and a colorful companion to all who savor food—and life—to the fullest. To learn more about Le Creuset’s classic French quality, and the joys of cooking with premium enameled cast iron, visit www.lecreuset.com.

contents

Features

real food winter 2017

20 Party Fare to Share Bites for happy rounds of get-togethers BY SERENA BASS

32 Pairing Principles Cheese with wine? Or cheese with beer? Yes. BY JANET FLETCHER

36 Leftover Gold Bring new luster to holiday dinner extras BY ROBIN ASBELL

46 Creative Cookies Sweeten the holidays with festive treats BY HANNAH MILES

52 Jacques PÃ©pin Sharing culinary and life lessons BY TARA Q. THOMAS

Departments 4 Bites Fermented condiments with kick RECIPES BY KIRSTEN K. AND CHRISTOPHER SHOCKEY

6 Kitchen Skills Savory pancakes: Ramp up traditional batter with unexpected additions BY JASON ROSS

8 Contributors 17 Ingredient Yogurt: Diverse delights BY LAUREN DeLAPA

18 Healthy Habits Boost your metabolism BY NATALIE HALL

56 Pairings Raise a glass to the season with cocktails and dessert BY MARY SUBIALKA

2 real food fall 2017

TURKEY AND WHITE BEAN SOUP WITH PISTOU (RECIPE PAGE 41)

56 26

Our Cover

Ham and Brussels Sprout Tart Dijon (page 45) Photograph by Terry Brennan Jacques PÃ©pin photo by Tom Hopkins

PUBLISHER JAMIE FLAWS EDITOR, CUSTOM PUBLICATIONS TAMMY GALVIN EDITOR MARY SUBIALKA ASSOCIATE EDITOR LIANNA MATT ASSISTANT EDITOR CLAIRE NOACK ASSISTANT CONTENT PRODUCER KYLE SMELTER EDITORIAL INTERNS LAUREN DeLAPA, NATALIE HALL, KERRY ROBERSON AND TAYLOR WEEKS SENIOR ART DIRECTOR JAMIE BANKSTON GRAPHIC DESIGNER PAUL BOEHNKE PRODUCTION PROJECT MANAGER CINDY MARKING ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE ATHAR KAKKA

VOLUME 13, NUMBER 4 Real Food magazine is published quarterly by Greenspring Media, LLC, 706 Second Ave. S. Suite 1000, Minneapolis, MN 55402, 612.371.5800, Fax 612.371.5801. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Real Food is exclusively operated and owned by Greenspring Media, LLC. Printed in the USA. www.realfoodmag.com C

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The pages between the covers of this magazine (except for any inserted material) are printed on paper made from wood fiber that was procured from forests that are sustainably managed to remain healthy, productive and biologically diverse.

winter 2017 real food 3

bites

Take a Walk on the Spicy Side Healthy, fermented foods are sure to add a layer of heat to your meal

he delicious spices of homemade fermented foods are turning heads in the health industry once again. Besides the acidic bite they give to food, fermentation unlocks other flavors as the carbohydrates break down, more vitamins are available and the different components mix. In Fiery Ferments: 70 Stimulating Recipes for Hot Sauces, Spicy Chutneys, Kimchis with Kick and Other Blazing Fermented Condiments, authors Kirsten K. and Christopher Shockey walk readers through the steps for making the perfect ferment. In addition to the recipes, the book has cooking advice and information about the ancient origins of fermentation—which is defined as the chemical breakdown of a substance by bacteria, yeasts, and other organisms, often resulting in effervescence and the release of heat. The good lactic acid bacteria that carry out the fermentation and break down sugar, starch, carbs and more also help keep the ferment safe to eat. Prepare to discover a world where vegetables, salt and patience lead to tasty results. —Kerry Roberson

Hot Cinnamon Quince Ferment MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART HEAT INDEX: 2/5

2 pounds quince, cored and chopped zest and juice of 1 lemon 1 tablespoon salt 2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger 1¼ teaspoons ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon chili flakes ½ teaspoon finely ground white pepper 1. Process the quince to pea-sized pieces in a food processor. Combine the quince with the lemon zest and juice, salt, ginger, cinnamon, chili flakes and white pepper in a bowl and mix well. 2. Pack the mixture into a jar, pressing out any air pockets as you go. Press a zip lock bag against the surface of the ferment, fill the bag with water, and zip it closed. 3. Place the jar in a corner of the kitchen to ferment. If you see air pockets, remove the bag, press the ferment back down with a clean utensil, rinse the bag, and replace. 4. Allow to ferment for 14 to 21 days. It’s ready when you notice a pleasing acidic smell and the flavor becomes acidic in a lemony way, with a strong cinnamon flavor throughout. No need to wait for the quince to soften—it won’t. You can let it ferment longer for more sour and punch. 5. Screw on the lid and store in the fridge, where the ferment will keep for up to 12 months.

4 real food winter 2017

AVOCADOS MAXIMLESHKOVICH - FOTOLIA.COM

Quince is an ancient fruit you may see in the produce section in fall, near the apples and pears. It looks like a badass pear— tougher, a little misshapen and larger, with sunny, vibrant yellow skin that is often a bit blemished and sometimes slightly fuzzy. It doesn’t have the curbside appeal of a pear or apple. If you have experienced quince, you will know that it is not to be eaten raw, but cooked it is delicious, and it turns out to be tasty when fermented as well. This ferment tastes a bit like fruity Red Hots candy with some citrus notes, and it acts as a good chutney for meat dishes such as roast pork.

Caribbean Salsa MAKES ABOUT 1½ PINTS HEAT INDEX: 4-5/5

The thing with habaneros is that the heat comes on late. You always have enough time to taste the rest of the ingredients and think you made it without pain and sweat. The other thing about habaneros is that they have an incredibly strong fruity quality. After sampling this salsa, you may think that there must be tomato in the ferment. Nope. This pairs great with beans (especially black beans), burritos, and it adds a twist to aioli for deep-fried foods such as fish and chips. ½ pound habaneros or other Caribbean chilies, such as Scotch Bonnets ½ large white onion, chopped 2 teaspoons minced dried thyme 1 teaspoon freshly ground allspice ½ teaspoon salt 1. Chop the habaneros and mix them in a bowl with the onion, thyme and allspice. Sprinkle in the salt and keep mixing. The mixture should become moist quickly. 2. Pack the mixture into a jar, pressing out any air pockets as you go. Press a zip lock bag against the surface of the ferment, fill the bag with water, and zip it closed. 3. Place the jar in a corner of the kitchen to ferment. If you see air pockets, remove the bag, press the ferment back down with a clean utensil, rinse the bag, and replace. 4. Allow to ferment for 7 to 14 days. It is ready when you see the colors of the ferment mute; the brine may become cloudy as well. The ferment will have a pleasing acidic smell and taste pickle-y, and it may have a bit of an effervescent zing. You can let it ferment longer for more sour and punch. 5. Screw on the lid and store in the fridge, where the salsa will keep for up to 12 months. ■

VARIATION:

Habanero Relish MAKES ABOUT 1½ PINTS HEAT INDEX: 4-5/5

Prepare this ferment in the same way as the Caribbean Salsa but be prepared for a decidedly different flavor. It is very herbal and very hot, with no tomato notes. The heat comes on late and continues to build for quite some time. We like to put it into a soup right before serving. It is also a nice addition to flavor a creamy cheese. 8 1 3 3 1 2 ¼ ¼ 4 ½

to 10 habaneros, or other Caribbean chilies, such as Scotch Bonnets shallot, finely chopped garlic cloves, minced tablespoons minced fresh chives tablespoon minced fresh thyme tablespoons minced fresh parsley teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon grated fresh ginger tablespoons fresh lime juice teaspoon salt

RECIPES AND PHOTOS REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM FIERY FERMENTS BY KIRSTEN K. SHOCKEY AND CHRISTOPHER SHOCKEY © 2017 STOREY PUBLISHING. PHOTOGRAPHS BY LARA FERRONI, USED WITH PERMISSION FROM STOREY PUBLISHING.

winter 2017 real food 5

kitchen skills

Hot Cakes Easy savory pancakes start with traditional batter and ramp up flavor with unexpected additions BY JASON ROSS

avory pancakes for dinner? Sure, but make it a real pancake tonight. While crab cakes, latkes and okonomiyaki—the Japanese cake served with dried tuna, seaweed and a drizzle of mayonnaise—fall into the savory pancake category, the recipes here use more traditional pancake batter as a base and easily mix it up with a variety of ingredients. Serve them as appetizers, vegetable sides or as a canapé base for open-faced sandwiches at your next party. Even made with “real” batter, pancakes don’t have to be all about maple syrup and coffee. PHOTO BY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLED BY LARA MIKLASEVICS

Basic Savory Pancake Mix MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Use this base for each recipe here. It would also work well for variations you might like to develop. 1 ½ ¼ ½ 1¼ 1 1

cup all-purpose flour teaspoon baking powder teaspoon baking soda teaspoon salt cups buttermilk egg, beaten tablespoon unsalted butter, melted

1. In large mixing bowl, combine flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt with a whisk. 2. In a separate bowl, place buttermilk, egg and melted butter and whisk to combine. 3. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients and pour in the wet mixture. Stir together with a wooden spoon. A few lumps are fine; do not overmix. Overworked dough makes a rubbery pancake. The batter can be stored covered, and refrigerated for up to 24 hours. 4. Proceed to recipe variations shown at right to complete the selected recipe. 5. Cooking Savory Pancakes: Cooking savory cakes is much like cooking breakfast pancakes. Oil a large griddle or sauté pan and heat on medium heat. Spoon roughly ¼ cup servings of batter onto hot pan. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes until bubbles rise and edges are golden brown. Flip and finish cooking on other side, another 2 minutes, until browned and fully cooked. Repeat, using oil as necessary.

POTATO BACON CHEDDAR PANCAKES

ZUCCHINI AND FETA CHEESE PANCAKES

6 real food winter 2017

Zucchini and Feta Cheese Pancakes

Corn Pancakes

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

These pop with flavor from herbs, cheese and zucchini for a healthier version of the traditional pancake. Try serving these as a side dish with grilled meat or as an appetizer with sautéed shrimp.

Corn pancakes work well for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Either frozen or fresh corn can make a great cake.

medium zucchini (about ½ pound or 2 cups shredded) pinch salt tablespoon butter medium onion (½ cup minced) clove garlic, minced cup crumbled feta tablespoon minced fresh mint recipe Basic Savory Pancake Mix (see page 6)

1. Using a box grater, shred the zucchini and place in a colander set above a bowl. Toss with pinch of salt. Let sit for 10 to 20 minutes as the salt helps pull out some of the liquid. 2. In a medium-sized sauté pan, melt butter over medium heat, add onion and garlic, and cook until softened but not browned, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a medium-sized mixing bowl and allow to cool. 3. While the onion and garlic mixture cools, push the zucchini into the colander with the back of a wooden spoon to squeeze out excess liquid. Add the zucchini to the cooling onion and garlic mixture, along with feta and minced mint. 4. In a mixing bowl stir together zucchini mixture with the Basic Savory Pancake Mix. Proceed to cooking (see page 6, step 5). Serve with Zucchini Mint Yogurt Sauce: In a small mixing bowl, place ¾ cup whole-milk yogurt, ¼ medium zucchini finely minced (about 2 tablespoons), 2 tablespoons minced mint, ½ teaspoon salt and 1 clove garlic, minced. Stir with a spoon or rubber spatula. Yogurt sauce can be stored covered, and refrigerated for up to 7 days. Makes 1 cup.

1 recipe Basic Savory Pancake Mix (see page 6), modified: For the 1 cup flour, substitute ½ cup all-purpose flour, ¼ cup masa harina (corn flour) and ¼ cup cornmeal 2 cups corn kernels 1 tablespoon minced cilantro 1. Mix variation to Basic Savory Pancake Mix. 2. In a mixing bowl stir the modified pancake mix with corn kernels and cilantro. Proceed to cooking (see page 6, step 5). Serve with Corn Salsa: In a mixing bowl, combine 1 medium diced tomato, 2 tablespoons diced white onion, 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro, ½ cup corn kernels, 1 diced jalapeño (if you like it spicy), juice of ½ lime and ½ teaspoon salt using a spoon or rubber spatula. Corn salsa can be stored covered and refrigerated for up to 2 days. Makes 1 cup.

Potato Bacon Cheddar Pancakes MAKES 6 SERVINGS

This might be the biggest crowd pleaser in the world of savory pancakes with bacon, potato, and cheese in the mix. 1 1½ 4 ½

recipe Basic Savory Pancake Mix (see page 6) cups prepared hash browns shredded potatoes slices bacon, cooked and diced cup shredded cheddar cheese

1. In a mixing bowl stir Basic Savory Pancake Mix with hash browns, crisped bacon and cheddar cheese. Proceed to cooking (see page 6, step 5). Serve with Scallion Sour Cream: Combine ¾ cup sour cream, 2 finely sliced scallions (use whole scallion, trimming only the root), ¼ teaspoon salt, couple grinds black pepper and a dash of Tabasco in a mixing bowl using a spoon or rubber spatula. It can be stored covered and refrigerated for up to 7 days. Makes 1 cup. ■

NUTRITION

1 1 ½ ½ 1 ½ 1 1

ZUCCHINI & FETA W. SAUCE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 198 (72 from fat); FAT 8g (sat. 5g); CHOL 56mg; SODIUM 760mg; CARB 23g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 8g

CORN W. SALSA: PER SERVING: CALORIES 190 (37 from fat); FAT 4g (sat. 2g); CHOL 38mg; SODIUM 597mg; CARB 33g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 7g

POTATO BACON CHEDDAR W. SAUCE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 351 (172 from fat); FAT 19g (sat. 8g); CHOL 70mg; SODIUM 775mg; CARB 34g; FIBER 2g; PROTEIN 11g

winter 2017 real food 7

contributors

Robin Asbell spreads the

word about how truly delicious and beautiful whole, real foods can be through her work as an author, cooking teacher and private chef. She likes to create delicious dishes that range from meat and seafood to beans and grains using global flavors. Her latest book is 300 Best Blender Recipes Using Your Vitamix. She is also the author of Great Bowls of Food: Grain Bowls, Buddha Bowls, Broth Bowls and More; Juice It!; Big Vegan: Over 350 Recipes, No Meat, No Dairy, All Delicious; The New Vegetarian; and Gluten-Free Pasta.

Terry Brennan is a Minneapolisbased photographer whose commercial and editorial work can be seen across the country. His clients include Target, Hormel, Land O’Lakes, General Mills and United Health Care. “Editorial photography is my passion and working closely with Real Food is always a highlight.”

Jason Ross is a culinary instructor

Tara Q. Thomas intended to

be a chef when she trained at the Culinary Institute of America in New York, but got sidetracked by wine. She has been writing about it for nearly 20 years now, most prominently at Wine & Spirits Magazine, where she is Executive Editor. Author of The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Wine Basics and a contributor to The Oxford Companion to Cheese and the forthcoming The Oxford Companion to Spirits, she also sits on the advisory panel for the International Culinary Center’s Sommelier Training Program. She lives in Brooklyn, New York, juggling a laptop and two small children—and still cooks nearly nightly, albeit for a smaller crowd.

8 real food winter 2017

at Le Cordon Bleu in Minnesota and has worked as a consultant to help develop menus at many Twin Cities restaurants. He grew up in New York City but now calls St. Paul, Minnesota, home, where he lives with his wife and two young daughters.

Lara Miklasevics began her food

career on the other side of the camera, cooking at the renowned New French Café in Minneapolis. Today her work as a stylist is in demand at corporations including Heinz, Target and General Mills, as well as with many magazines. She prides herself on using her experience as a chef to make food as appealing on the page as it is on the plate.

Serena Bass is known for

being New York City’s caterer to the stars and has thrown parties for Andy Warhol, Giorgio Armani, Kate Spade, Sarah Jessica Parker, Nathan Lane, and countless others. Her cookbook, Serena, Food & Stories, won the James Beard Award for best entertaining book. Bass is also the executive chef at Lido restaurant in Harlem, New York. Photograph by David Loftus.

Janet Fletcher is the author or

co-author of nearly 30 books on food and beverage, including Cheese & Wine and Cheese & Beer Beer. She publishes the weekly Planet Cheese blog and is the cheese columnist for Specialty Food and Somm Journal magazines. She teaches cooking and cheeseappreciation classes around the country. Her journalism has received three James Beard Awards and has appeared in The New York Times, Saveur Fine Cooking and Food & Wine. Saveur,

Hannah Miles is a lawyer and

MasterChef finalist who developed a second career as a cake maker and food writer. She is the author of Popcorn Treats, Milkshake Bar Bar, Doughnuts, Cheesecake, Sweetie Pie and Naked Cakes. She lives in the U.K.

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Healthy Food for Life

recent study on children’s eating habits found many children in the United States go without any vegetables in their diet. In fact, the data indicated toddlers were more likely to eat french fries than green vegetables. The study, which was conducted by the University of North Carolina-Chapel Hill Gillings School of Public Health, analyzed eight years of data that the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention collected through the National Health and Nutrition Examination Survey. The findings were alarming, and we can all probably think of some key factors behind these unfortunate trends. Nutritious meals can often take longer to cook, which is difficult when you’re trying to juggle all of the day’s demands. Buying healthier food can be more costly. And let’s face it, french fries and other calorie-rich, nutrient-sparse foods are pretty darn tasty. As the study notes, it’s important to introduce fruits, vegetables and other healthy foods to your children early and often. And we’re here to help. Last year we launched Nourish, which is our exclusive health and wellness directive that aims to guide you on how to feel great by making pure food choices. Given the importance of making sure our children are also enjoying fresh, nutrient-dense foods, we recently launched Nourish Kids under the leadership of Bea James and our Nourish team.

In our stores and our Nourish magazine you will find “Li’l Bee” on products and recipes to help you identify kid-friendly choices that not only pack a nutritious punch, but will also likely get a thumbs up from your children. Our Nourish team has even created a fun game that children can play in our stores to find healthier food options that just might become new favorites in your house. To learn more about Nourish Kids, see page 10. On behalf of our entire extended family of employees here at Lunds & Byerlys, we would like to wish you and your family a joyous holiday season and a happy and healthy New Year! Sincerely,

Tres Lund President and CEO

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Lunds & Byerlys nourish

Li’l Bee’s

Nourish Kids Introduce fresh foods early and set the stage for a lifetime of healthy eating BY BEA JAMES, DIRECTOR OF NOURISH AND BAKERY

hen I was growing up, my mother fed all five of her children health food, or “hippie food,” as it was called back then. We never had frozen or boxed meals. Instead, I remember soybean casseroles, hot cereals, fresh fruit and sandwiches made with mom’s freshly baked whole grain bread. As I got older and visited friends’ houses after school, I was introduced to sugary cereal, potato chips and soda pop. Feeling deprived, I marched home (repeatedly) and asked my mother, “Why can’t we have that stuff?” My mother (repeatedly) replied, “When you get older you’ll understand.” She was right. I have fed my own two sons the same way as my mother fed me, and it wasn’t easy. There are more kid-focused, calorie-rich and nutrient-sparse foods than ever before, but by introducing fresh foods at an early age, it becomes easier. Finding a way to teach children how to eat well is a gift they will carry into their adult life, which is why we created Nourish Kids.

Li’l Bee to the rescue! Not sure how to shop for kid-friendly healthy food choices? Never fear—Li’l Bee to the rescue! Look for the Li’l Bee on select Nourish recipes and in our Nourish magazine to discover kid-friendly products and family meal ideas that are sure to please even the pickiest of palates. We know juggling jobs, kids and the demands of a busy life can make mealtime challenging. Nourish Kids and Li’l Bee are here to help! ■

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Li’l Bee’s Nourish Kids Challenge Nourish Kids lives through five simple elements. Explore each element and engage your kids in healthy shopping, eating and living with Li’l Bee’s Nourish challenge:

Challenge 1: Choose Real Food Can the kiddos spot the best of what’s in the store? Help them spot foods that look the same on the shelf as they did in nature. Challenge 2: Eat the Rainbow Food comes in a rainbow of inspiring colors! Have them pick a color, and then challenge them to spot as many fruits and veggies in that shade as possible. Challenge 3: Expand your Palate Explore the five flavors: sweet, sour, salty, bitter and savory. How does each taste on their tongue? Have them draw a face to show you. Challenge 4: Add a Boost Amp up the nutrition with superfoods! Do they like berries? Nuts and seeds? Greens? Layer in a nutritional power player each week. Challenge 5: Create Harmony Help them create inner peace—let them shake their sillies out, explore nature or do some yoga. Kids need stress relief, too!

Lunds & Byerlys meat department

Holiday Table Centerpieces Let Lunds & Byerlys take care of the mouthwatering main course for your holiday dinner

his year, spend more time gathered around the table with your loved ones and less time in the kitchen thanks to our holiday table centerpieces. Lunds & Byerlys offers a wide range of delicious meat centerpieces that are sure to impress your friends and family at holiday gatherings. Plus, we have incredible in-store FoodE Experts and highly trained meat and seafood staff who can help make your meal planning decisions easier and answer those all-important questions about preparation. Before you finalize your holiday menu, take a look at some of our mouthwatering offerings. ■ Manhattan Strip Roast Our Manhattan Strip Roast is cut from a tender section of beef and lightly marinated with an exclusive combination of olive oil, French sea salt and spices developed by our executive chef Michael Selby. It cooks in less than an hour and is boneless, so it’s easy to slice and serve.

Royal Rib Roast Our bone-in Royal Rib Roasts are the ideal pairing of premium choice beef and top-shelf local herbs and spices. The marinade is savory, not salty, and very aromatic. Plus, these royal roasts are incredibly easy to cook! Each cut— king, queen or princess—is rightsized by the number of servings.

Reserve Aged Rib Roast Our Reserve Aged Choice Beef is aged for a minimum of 28 days to achieve optimum flavor and tenderness. Much as an oak barrel promotes the aging of wine, untreated cedar is used to provide a depth of flavor while accentuating subtle aromas and providing tenderness that is unmatched.

Apple Cider Brined Turkey Breast Go local this holiday season with turkey from family farm Ferndale Market in Cannon Falls. Our succulent all-natural turkey breasts are brined in fresh-pressed apple cider made from Minnesotagrown apples. They are then seasoned with herbs, shallots and sea salt, resulting in a rich, clean flavor and mesmerizing aroma.

Spiral Sliced Dry Honey Glazed Bone-In Ham Ham the way it should be, made using a premium old-fashioned smoking process that has been perfected by a fourth generation family-owned smokehouse. They start with fresh hams and then smoke them using all-natural hickory or applewood for a natural flavor. The hams offer a subtle smoky-sweet flavor that’s not too salty and have a firm texture that’s never dry. They are spiral sliced for easy serving.

North Country Prime Rib of Pork Our North Country Prime Rib of Pork is the ultimate in both flavor and presentation. Each roast has been delicately seasoned with our exclusive blend of spices and shallots with hints of juniper berry. For ease in preparation, all North Country roasts are Frenchcut by hand to support even cooking while maximizing flavor and juiciness. And the bone-in presentation is stunning.

For cooking tips and recommendations, visit LundsandByerlys.com/HolidayKitchen LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 11

Lunds & Byerlys wine and spirits

Holiday Cocktails Nothing says “holiday” like some fun, festive cocktails! Here are a few of our favorites.

Three Sparkling Cocktails A bit of fizz is always festive and makes delicious cocktails, too!

Bubbly Blood Orange & Rosemary In a cocktail shaker, muddle a few rosemary sprigs with a pinch of sugar. Add 2 ounces of blood orange juice. Shake well with ice and strain into a Champagne flute. Top with sparkling wine. Garnish with a slice of blood orange, if desired.

Pink Pomegranate Champagne Add 2 ounces pomegranate juice to a Champagne flute. Top with sparkling wine and garnish with pomegranate seeds.

Sparkling Juice Add 2 ounces of Juice So Good Juice (we recommend Juicy Roots) to a Champagne flute. Top with sparkling wine.

RumChata Five Ways The creamy liqueur, RumChata, is made from a mix of premium Caribbean rum and the finest dairy cream, and it is finished off with unique spices and flavors that are perfect for mixing it up this holiday season.

RumChata Root Beer Float Pour 4 ounces of cold A&W Root Beer or Dad’s Root Beer into a glass filled with ice. Top with 3 ounces of RumChata. Tip: High levels of citric acid in other brands of root beer may curdle the cream.

RumChata Hot Chocolate Fill a mug with 2 ounces of RumChata and top with hot chocolate.

Orange Creamsicle RumChata In a lowball glass filled with ice, combine 2 ounces of RumChata and 1 ounce of Tattersall Orange Crema.

Apple RumChata In a cocktail shaker with ice, combine 1 ounce of apple liqueur and 2 ounces of RumChata. Strain into a sea salt rimmed martini glass.

RumChata Eggnog In a highball glass filled with ice, combine 2 ounces of RumChata and 4 ounces of eggnog.

12 real food winter 2017

Lunds & Byerlys wine and spirits

Two Pepper Jelly Cocktails

Think pepper jelly is just for appetizers? Think again! L&B Pepper Jellies add just the right amount of spicy sweetness to these cocktails.

Cranberry Bourbon Old Fashioned MAKES 1 SERVING

1 2 1 4 1

tablespoon L&B Cranberry Bourbon Pepper Jelly ounces bourbon sugar cube to 6 dashes Angostura bitters orange slice

1. Combine L&B Cranberry Bourbon Pepper Jelly, bourbon and a handful of ice in a shaker. Shake vigorously for 30 seconds. 2. Add the sugar cube to the bottom of a lowball glass; add 4 to 6 dashes of Angostura bitters and muddle to combine. 3. Add an orange slice to the glass and muddle together with the sugar/bitters mixture. 4. Add a handful of ice to the glass. Strain the bourbon/pepper jelly mixture into the glass through a fine-mesh sieve. Stir to combine and serve.

Meyer Lemon Blood Orange Margarita MAKES 1 SERVING

1 tablespoon L&B Meyer Lemon Blood Orange Pepper Jelly 2 ounces tequila juice of 1 lime juice of ½ orange 1. Combine L&B Meyer Lemon Blood Orange Pepper Jelly, tequila and a handful of ice in a shaker. Shake vigorously for 30 seconds. 2. Add a handful of ice to a lowball glass. 3. Strain tequila/pepper jelly mixture into the glass through a fine-mesh sieve. 4. Top with the juice from 1 lime and half an orange. Stir to combine and serve.

Slow Cooker Mulled Wine MAKES 10 TO 12 SERVINGS

The perfect cocktail to serve party guests on a cold, blustery day is made even easier in a slow cooker. peel of ½ orange 6 cinnamon sticks, broken into pieces 1-inch ginger root, peeled and sliced 1 teaspoon allspice 4 cups apple cider 1 cup apple brandy 1 (750ml) bottle Cabernet Sauvignon ¼ cup honey 1. Combine orange peel, cinnamon, ginger root and allspice in an 8-inch square of cheesecloth or in cloth tea bags. 2. Combine apple cider, apple brandy, Cabernet and honey in a slow cooker. Add spice bag(s) from step 1. 3. Cover and cook on low heat setting for 5 to 6 hours or on high heat setting for 2½ to 3 hours. 4. Remove spice bag(s) and discard. Ladle mulled wine into cups. Cheers!

LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 13

Lunds & Byerlys

whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in store

COWBELL BITES Locally made in Wisconsin, Cowbell Bites frozen treats are created by dipping creamy cheesecake in decadent dark chocolate before drizzling them with dreamy white chocolate or a sprinkle of sea salt. They pair perfectly with coffee or a glass of wine.

Tip: For a fun twist, try the Cowbell Confetti Bars, which are covered in bright sprinkles that are colored with turmeric, annatto and vegetable juices for a truly all-natural treat.

MONARI FEDERZONI ORGANIC VINEGARS & GLAZE Founded as a small family business in Italy in 1912, Monari Federzoni has mastered the art of the balsamic vinegar of Modena. Today, their organic vinegars bring traditional Italian aromas and flavors to the American table. Their USDA-certified organic vinegar varieties include apple cider vinegar, red wine vinegar, white wine vinegar and glaze with balsamic vinegar of Modena.

Tip: The glaze with balsamic vinegar of Modena comes in a handy squeeze bottle, which makes it perfect for garnishing bruschetta, salads, and grilled or roasted veggies.

DRY SPARKLING SODA LIMITED EDITION HOLIDAY FLAVORS DRY Sparkling creates lightly sweet, non-alcoholic sodas that honor simple, botanical flavors. Their holiday flavors draw on some of the most beloved seasonal tastesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;ginger and cranberry. Drink DRY on its own, paired with a meal or mixed into a cocktail.

Did you know? These limited edition flavors pair with your holiday favorites. Bold, spicy Ginger DRY pairs with pot roast and sweet potatoes. Cranberry DRY is tart and can be paired with roasted turkey, spiral ham or baked Brie.

14 real food winter 2017

Lunds & Byerlys what’s in store

HISSHO SUSHI POKE BOWLS Having trouble deciding between sushi and a salad? Now you can have both! Poke (pronounced POH-keh), or fish salad, features cubes of delicious fresh fish or shellfish mixed with traditional Asian seasonings. Whether you’re looking for a protein-filled snack or light dinner option, Hissho’s poke bowls pack a healthy punch. Try all three flavors: classic Hawaiian (tuna), mango salmon and blazing dragon (spicy crab and shrimp).

Did you know? Poke originated as a fisherman’s snack in Hawaii.

L&B OILS AND FLAVORED BALSAMIC VINEGARS BONNE MAMAN LEMON CURD This beautiful yellow lemon curd is joyfully sweet with a bright, clean lemon flavor and velvety texture. Each jar is made in France with simple, natural ingredients. Try lemon curd as a filling in layer cakes, dolloped on top of pancakes, swirled into lemon bars or spread on toast.

Our new L&B flavored balsamic vinegars and artisanal oils are the perfect additions to your cooking arsenal. The bright, flavorful balsamics are wonderful for marinating, cooking or drizzling over salads. Our L&B artisanal oils are a great source of antioxidants and Vitamin E. Look for avocado oil, sunflower oil and canola oil as well as pomegranate balsamic, strawberry balsamic and mango balsamic in stores now.

Tip: Our L&B oils and flavored vinegars make terrific holiday gifts for the foodie in your life.

Did you know? “Bonne Maman” means “grandmother” or “granny” in French. The brand is aptly named as the preserves and jellies are made from the best natural ingredients such as those found in your grandmother’s kitchen.

LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 15

Start with the finish

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SHAKOPEE

ingredient

Dairy’s Diverse Descendant The evolution of yogurt has made this long-loved product an essential element of dairy-based diets worldwide

PHOTO SONYAKAMOZ - FOTOLIA.COM

hile drifting through the dairy aisle of the store, you most likely have been greeted by a grand display of yogurt. Row after row of compact containers holding this cultured-milk creation give shoppers seemingly endless selections to choose from. But did you know this celebrated product might have humble beginnings? Historians believe that yogurt originated around 5000 B.C. as a happy accident. A warm climate and primitive milk storage practices combined to create the tart and creamy commodity we know to be yogurt. This was certainly fortunate as yogurt boasts impressive health benefits. A single serving is plentiful in protein, calcium, vitamins B-2 and B-12, potassium and magnesium. It is also packed with probiotics, which help boost the immune system and promote healthy digestion. As if this weren’t reason enough to swing by the store and pick up a container or two, yogurt also acts as a healthy swap in numerous recipes. Switch out sour cream, mayonnaise or milk for yogurt in salad dressings, pasta sauce and desserts for added flavor and more mindful meals. —Lauren DeLapa

YOGURT STYLES Balkan-Style or Set-Style Yogurt Originating in Bulgaria, Balkan, or setstyle yogurt, begins with a warm cultured milk mixture that is incubated without any stirring. This process helps to create the thick texture Balkan-style yogurt is known for, making it a great addition to many recipes. Greek Yogurt With its creamy texture and almost double the protein content of regular yogurt, Greek yogurt is a holy grail product for all yogurt-lovers. Greek yogurt is made from milk that has been strained of excess water, giving it a thicker consistency than traditional yogurt. Another perk? Greek yogurt is great for cooking since it holds up against heat better than other yogurt options. Swiss Yogurt Similar to Balkan-style yogurt, Swiss yogurt, also known as stirred yogurt, starts with a warm cultured milk mixture and is incubated, but an added cooling period and final stir gives this extremely creamy yogurt its name. The stirring process makes Swiss yogurt thinner than Balkan-style, standing as the go-to pick for cold beverages and desserts. Skyr or Icelandic Yogurt Similar to strained yogurts, Icelandic yogurt, or Skyr, is slightly sour but has a milder flavor than its sifted counterparts. Skyr is most commonly sold sweetened with popular flavors such as vanilla, lemon and berry. Unsweetened Skyr’s tangy taste works well with protein-based dishes such as chicken salad and salmon. Almond, Coconut and Soy Yogurt These dairy-free alternatives are the perfect option for those looking for a yogurt fix that leaves behind the lactose. And ditching the dairy doesn’t mean fewer health benefits. These are full of antioxidants, high in fiber and contain healthy fats that promote heart health. ■

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healthy habits

Metabolism Boosters

Eat, drink and be merry without dropping the ball on your New Year’s resolutions BY NATALIE HALL

he holiday season brings family dinners, presents and party preparation. While it is a joyful time, it can monopolize the calendar and distract from necessary exercise and rest, dragging your metabolism down. Metabolism, your body’s engine, is the process of breaking down food to produce energy. Just as exercise works muscles to keep them in shape, eating and drinking affect and maintain metabolic speed. With good daily habits and common foods that can boost your metabolism, there is no need for one more heaping plate of regret this holiday season. Like fingerprints, each metabolism is unique, and each person will have different experiences and results with metabolism-boosting foods and drinks. While these tips will benefit your metabolic rate, Bea Krinke, a registered dietitian with a Master of Public Health in nutrition, says there is no single magic ingredient to accelerate your metabolism. “It’s the process of eating and drinking more than specific foods that increases metabolic rate,” says Krinke, pointing out that metabolism benefits most from exercise in conjunction with a healthy diet. Some foods promote metabolic health better than others and may give it a little boost. However, this will not cause you to drop pants sizes without proper exercise and dietary restrictions. “The best weight management program is the one you can stick to,” Krinke says. As you enter the holiday craze, be mindful of habits you can form or shift for a practical health plan that can carry you into the new year. These tips may give your metabolism a little jump this season.

An extra shot Caffeine in coffee and most teas supplies energy to tackle your to-do list and gets your metabolism revving. Caffeinated coffee-drinkers have a 16 percent higher average metabolism than that of decaffeinated coffee-drinkers or people who do not drink coffee, according to a study published in the health journal Physiology and Behavior. These drinks also contain minimal calories for the metabolic benefits. (Consume in moderation.) In addition to caffeine, tea contains other components to jolt your metabolism. Green tea contains EGCG, a plant compound that promotes fat burning in the body, while less caffeinated oolong tea has polyphenols that help block fat-building enzymes.

GOT MILK? A daily glass of milk or other calcium-rich foods can help the body metabolize fat more efficiently.

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COFFEE APRIL_89 - FOTOLIA.COM WOMAN LIDERINA - FOTOLIA.COM

Jumpstart your engine Because your metabolism starts converting food to energy with your first meal of the day, skipping breakfast is never a good idea. Not only does breakfast initiate daily energy production, but health experts say if you do not eat within an hour of waking up, your body goes into starvation mode and stores your next meal as fat instead of burning it as energy. So, it may be okay to skip the stairs—but not breakfast.

‘Tis the seasoning Instead of loading on gravy and salt, season with black pepper and spices for bolder flavors and a faster metabolism. When substituted for salt, black pepper lowers your sodium intake and increases metabolism through the alkaloid piperine. Capsaicin gives peppers and spices their bite and increases adrenaline, kicking your metabolism up a notch and curbing appetite by raising body temperature. Red peppers, jalapeños, habaneros and hot sauce contain capsaicin, as do spices such as cayenne pepper, chili powder and paprika. For your holiday desserts, use cinnamon for a metabolic rev. Although it does not contain capsaicin, it contains antioxidants and polymers that can lower your blood sugar levels, discouraging fat storage in the body. ■

Egg, Sausage and Cheddar Breakfast Bowl MAKES 1 SERVING. RECIPE AND PHOTO COURTESY OF THE AMERICAN EGG BOARD

Get a metabolism jump on a busy morning with this quick, healthy breakfast. 2 eggs 2 tablespoons milk 2 tablespoons fully cooked breakfast sausage crumbles (or 1 fully cooked breakfast sausage link or patty, chopped) 1 tablespoon shredded Cheddar cheese 1. Beat eggs and milk in a small, microwavesafe bowl until blended. 2. Add sausage. 3. Microwave on high 45 seconds; push cooked eggs toward center. Microwave until egg is almost set, about 45 to 60 seconds longer. 4. Top with cheese and serve immediately. Cook’s Note: Don’t overcook. Eggs will continue to cook and firm up after removed from the microwave. NUTRITION

PEPPER JIRI HERA - FOTOLIA.COM HAM ARTEM SHADRIN - FOTOLIA.COM CHOCOLATE SEA WAVE - FOTOLIA.COM

Lean on me[at] Protein is key to building muscle for a good metabolism. Muscle enables the body to efficiently produce energy, increasing your metabolic rate, while fat decreases the body’s energy efficiency. Lean meats foster elevated metabolism because they contain more protein, which burns more calories during digestion. Their high levels of branched-chain amino acids help build muscle with exercise and preserve muscle during periods of inactivity. The large quantities of iron also found in lean meats allow the body to burn calories most efficiently. Gobble up holiday turkey and ham. Egg whites, skinless poultry and any pork cuts from the loin are all protein-rich foods that will get your metabolism pumping.

EGG, SAUSAGE & CHEDDAR BREAKFAST BOWL: PER SERVING: CALORIES 226; FAT 16g (sat. 6g); CHOL 388mg; SODIUM 316mg; CARB 3g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 18g

Always consult your doctor if you have health concerns or before making any major dietary changes.

SWEET TOOTH SATISFACTION Sugary snacks spike blood sugar, encouraging the body to break down carbs and store them as fat. Instead of reaching into the cookie jar, satisfy your sweet tooth with dark chocolate that contains at least 85 percent cocoa. The raw material in cocoa contains anti-inflammatory polyphenols that stop fat-building enzymes. These benefits are most effective with a higher concentration of cocoa in chocolate.

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20 real food winter 2017

Party Fare

TO SHARE Savory bites for happy rounds of merry making

BY SERENA BASS

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

winter 2017 real food 21

Turkey Meatballs with Sage and Apple MAKES ABOUT 25 MEATBALLS

oliday parties and get-togethers. These are such happy words and

associated with so much fun. Parties are also often something to which you would like to contribute. I have a few tips. Do check with your host that they actually would like you to bring something, as you just never know. If I am the host my mind often goes completely blank when people ask, “What can I bring?” So when you call, have two or three ideas at the ready that you are confident in making, and no doubt one of them will be absolutely perfect. In the past, I have willfully just brought my favorite dessert, for instance, without checking what is wanted, and once found I had duplicated the family’s grandmother’s traditional pecan pie. That was embarrassing. Try to bring your appetizers as ready-made as possible so you don’t get in the way in the kitchen. But if need be, check if there will be room in the oven to warm up your food. If not, go for room temperature or something you could microwave. Bring items to warm in two small, oven-proof dishes so they can fit in more easily than one big cookie sheet. Also, just in case there are helpers in the kitchen already, stick a Post-it note on your offering that reads “350°F for 10 minutes,” for example, so you can just drop it off and join the party. Happiest of holidays to everyone.

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These are a great alternative for people who don’t want to eat beef, pork or veal. And with the wonderful seasonings, every little bite packs a delicious punch. 2 ½ 1½ ¾ ½ 1⁄4 1 2 2 2 3⁄4

tablespoons olive oil cup diced packed shallots teaspoons salt cup diced apples (Gala or Golden Delicious) cup packed fresh white breadcrumbs or panko cup half-and-half or whole milk pound ground turkey extra-large eggs teaspoons minced fresh sage (11⁄2 teaspoons dried sage) teaspoons finely minced lemon zest teaspoon freshly ground black pepper butter for frying vegetable oil for frying

1. Put the olive oil in a heavy, non-stick sauté pan over medium heat. Add the shallots, apples and ½ teaspoon of the salt. Sauté for about 6 minutes, or until translucent. Tip out onto a plate and set aside to cool. 2. Put the breadcrumbs in a small bowl and add the half-and-half. Stir to mix and set aside for at least 5 minutes and up to 20 minutes. 3. Put the turkey, eggs, sage, lemon zest, remaining salt and the black pepper in a bowl. Add the shallot mix and the soaked breadcrumbs. 4. Set the bowl in the kitchen sink, and with your hands, gently but thoroughly mix together. It will be quite a wet mixture. (I like to leave the mix for at least 30 minutes before cooking to firm up, but you can proceed to the next step if you are short of time.) 5. Lightly film the pan with equal amounts of butter and vegetable oil. Using a tablespoon measure, scoop up a lightly heaped spoonful and shake it into the pan. If the patty isn’t nicely rounded, just use a couple of wooden spoons to shape it. You will be sautéing these in batches, so they won’t be so close that they start to steam. 6. Sauté for about 3 minutes on each side. The meatballs can be held in a very low oven or, when you get to the party, reheated on a parchmentlined sheet pan at 250°F for about 8 to 10 minutes. Cook’s Notes: • To make it interesting, I like to jazz up store-bought mango chutney. For 1⁄2 cup mango chutney, add 1⁄4 teaspoon hot pepper flakes; 3 tablespoons toasted, chopped cashews; and 1 teaspoon finely grated lime or lemon zest. If the chutney has big lumps of mango or peach, you should pulse it a few times in a food processor to chop them up. • This turkey meat mixture can also be made into about 10 bigger patties for brunch and served with eggs, pancakes and maple syrup. • These can be made one week beforehand. Form meatballs or patties and freeze on a tray or cookie sheet. When they are solid, you can store them in a zip-top bag or plastic container. Defrost in the fridge overnight and then cook once thawed.

TURKEY MEATBALLS WITH SAGE AND APPLE

winter 2017 real food 23

CRUNCHY CHICKEN STRIPS WITH CHIPOTLE MAYONNAISE

Crunchy Chicken Strips

Chipotle Mayonnaise

MAKES 12 SERVINGS

MAKES 1½ CUPS

Notice I am not calling these chicken fingers because that would be almost like calling Buckingham Palace a house. These are intricately seasoned and could get more exotic with smoked paprika instead of plain, and a scattering of freshly ground cumin (about ½ teaspoon).These are served with Chipotle Mayonnaise (recipe right) for the adults—and adventurous kids—and a side of ketchup or warmed marinara sauce for the not-so-adventurous kids.

This magic sauce can do no wrong. The mayonnaise itself is ridiculously easy to make, but you do need a food processor. It is impossible to mess it up and is the essence of usefulness. In this recipe, you’re adding chipotle, but you could vary with additional garlic, lemon zest, sun-dried tomato paste or any variety of fresh herbs such as tarragon, which is particularly good. This recipe can easily be doubled.

½ 1 2 2 2 1 1 1 2

cup whole milk tablespoon lemon juice 10-ounce boneless, skinless chicken breasts, preferably organic extra-large eggs teaspoons crushed garlic teaspoon paprika (or smoked paprika) teaspoon salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoons dried oregano vegetable oil for frying

Crunchy Coating 4 cups panko breadcrumbs 1 cup flour 1 tablespoon salt 2 teaspoons plain paprika 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1. In a medium bowl, add the milk and lemon juice and leave it to sour for 5 minutes. 2. Slice each chicken breast into 7 or 8 pieces and set aside. 3. To the milk mixture, add the eggs, garlic, paprika, salt, pepper and oregano and whisk together. 4. Add the chicken and let it marinate for at least 30 minutes or up to overnight. 5. For the crunchy coating: Place breadcrumbs in a zipper top bag and roll a bit more finely with a rolling pin or a bottle. In a large bowl, mix breadcrumbs, flour, salt, paprika and pepper and tip onto a plate, shaking to level. 6. Remove the chicken pieces from marinade and lay them in the dry mixture. Turn to coat the other side. 7. Using a heavy based non-stick pan over medium high heat, add vegetable oil to cover the pan 1⁄8 inch and wait until it is just shimmering. Add the chicken carefully, without crowding the pan, and cook for 2 minutes on each side, adjusting the heat so the crumbs are golden brown but not too dark (and adding more oil as needed). 8. Remove the strips from the pan onto a cooling rack and, if transporting, allow to cool completely. 9. Transport on crumpled aluminum foil in a single layer, and try not to cover them, or they will start to become soggy. If you have to cover them, then just re-crisp in your host’s oven at 350°F for about 5 minutes.

1 extra-large egg 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 2 tablespoons aged sherry vinegar or 7% acidity white wine vinegar 2 large cloves garlic 1 teaspoon ground chipotle (or to taste, try 1⁄2 teaspoon first) 1 teaspoons salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 11⁄2 cups canola or other vegetable oil 1. Put all ingredients except the oil in the work bowl of a food processor and blend for 10 seconds. 2. While the machine is running, gradually pour in the oil. Remove and store refrigerated for up to 1 week.

HOSTING TIP: PARTY BY NUMBER Wondering how much food you will need? Think about the timing of your party: 5–6 p.m. Plan for 4 appetizers per person. Presumably guests will be enjoying dinner somewhere else and won’t want to fill up. 5–7 p.m. Assume 6 to 8 hors d’oeuvres per person. 5–8 p.m. Because this span covers dinnertime for many, allow 8 to 12 appetizers per person. And don’t forget a sweet option toward the end of the evening. 6–9 p.m. This definitely covers dinnertime, so not only expect 8 to 12 hors d’oeuvres per person but also have some options that are a bit more filling, such as a soup shot.

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TINY TARTS TWO WAYS

Mushroom Tarts with Shallots, Nutmeg and Oregano

Chicken, Ginger and Pine Nut Tarts

MAKES 30 TARTS

I do love a mixture that works hard for me. This unctuous mushroom ragout is delicious in these shells, and the good news is, if you are pressed for time, the mixture can be fully made and frozen one or two weeks ahead. The flavor is surprisingly unchanged, and you could never tell it hadn’t been just made. I add a sprinkling of chopped fresh thyme or parsley, just to further spiff it up.

Sometimes I find in the holiday season almost everything you are offered is hot, cheesy, creamy and admittedly, deliciously gooey. These little tarts are a refreshing change since they are served at cool room temperature and have an Asian influence. They should be filled at the last minute, as it’s nice when the shell is still crisp; if you leave the filling in too long, you’ll get a soggy bottom.

4 1 3 1 1⁄4 ½ ½ ½ ½

ounces shiitake mushrooms, stalks removed large Portobello cap (about 6 ounces), stalk removed tablespoons olive oil teaspoon salt cup finely diced shallots or yellow onion teaspoon crushed garlic (about 1 large clove) teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cup heavy cream teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg (1⁄4 teaspoon pre-ground, or to taste) 1 teaspoon, packed chopped fresh oregano (1⁄2 teaspoon dried), plus more for serving

30 mini phyllo tart shells 1. Cut all the mushrooms into 1⁄4-inch dice. 2. Heat the olive oil in a 10-inch skillet over high heat and add the mushrooms and salt. Cook for 5 minutes, then add the shallots and lower to medium-high heat. 3. Cook for about 8 minutes until some of the mushrooms and shallots have caramelized at the edges. 4. Add the garlic and pepper (plus the dried oregano if using), cook 1 additional minute. Then add the heavy cream and nutmeg and cook for 1 minute until some of the cream has been absorbed and the rest has thickened slightly. If using the fresh oregano, add it now and stir to mix. 5. Preheat oven to 350°F. Place mini tart shells on a cookie sheet and place 1 tablespoon of the mushroom mix in each phyllo cup. Heat in the oven for 5 minutes at 350°F. 6. Scatter oregano on the tarts after they are arranged on a tray. Cooks Notes: • Be careful when reheating the mushroom mixture before spooning into the tart shells. If you allow the mixture to get too hot, the cream will separate and become oily. Just reheat to warm-hot not warm-boiling. If it does separate, add an extra tablespoon of cream or whole milk, which will bring it back. • This wonderful mixture, which makes about 1½ cups, could be tossed with pasta, used as a sauce for steak or spooned with a scattering of grated Fontina cheese into an omelet—all delicious options.

26 real food winter 2017

3 cups chicken stock 12 ounces boneless, skinless chicken breasts, preferably organic 2 tablespoons peeled, grated fresh ginger 2 teaspoons finely grated lime zest 1⁄3 cup mayonnaise 3 tablespoons pine nuts 1 teaspoon black sesame seeds (plus more for garnish, optional) 2 teaspoons rice wine vinegar 1 teaspoon sesame oil ½ teaspoon ground turmeric ½ teaspoon hot pepper flakes ½ teaspoon of salt, or to taste 30 cilantro leaves, 1 for each tart 30 mini phyllo tart shells 1. Cut the chicken breasts evenly in half horizontally. Place chicken stock in a large pot over low heat and bring to a simmer. Add the chicken breasts. Cover the pan and simmer gently for about 10 minutes, then turn off the heat and let the chicken cool in the stock. 2. Cut the chicken into 1⁄4-inch cubes and cut some into ½-inch cubes. 3. Put the chicken in a bowl, add the remaining ingredients and fold together. 4. Preheat oven to 350°F. Place mini tart shells on cookie sheet for 5 minutes to crisp. 5. Fill each phyllo tart shell with 1 scant tablespoon chicken mixture. Dust with the black sesame seeds, if using, and then tuck 1 cilantro leaf down the side of each shell and serve at cool room temperature.

winter 2017 real food 27

Cauliflower and Thyme Dip MAKES 4 CUPS (ABOUT 64 1-TABLESPOON SERVINGS)

Cauliflower is a willing servant. It will befriend many different flavors from anchovies and raisins to parsley, but in my opinion, its best friend is thyme and its greatest characteristic is the ability to caramelize so nicely. It develops a wonderful nutty flavor and with thyme and a hit of lemon zest, turns from a simple vegetable into a fascinating, and somewhat addictive, spread for crunchy toasts. I serve it with a bowl of black olive tapenade nearby so guests can add a little dab if they like. It’s a good idea! 2 ½ 1 1 2 1 1⁄4

heads cauliflower (about 12 cups chopped) cup olive oil tablespoon chopped fresh thyme tablespoon minced lemon zest removed with a peeler teaspoons salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cup heavy cream

1. Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 400°F. Grease a 1-quart ovenproof dish with olive oil and set aside. 2. Cut off the base of the cauliflower, discard the leaves and rest the head of the cauliflower on a cutting board. Cut out the heart, leaving only the florets. Cut each floret into bite-sized pieces. 3. Put the florets, oil, thyme, lemon zest, salt and pepper in a large deep bowl and toss together well. You want to get the olive oil into all the nooks and crannies. 4. Pour the cauliflower mixture onto an ungreased sheet pan, add 1⁄2 cup of water, and roast for 35 minutes. Some of the florets will caramelize underneath, which is fine. 5. Test a couple of the larger pieces with a paring knife; they should pierce easily. 6. Remove from the oven and scoop the cooked cauliflower into a food processor. 7. Add the heavy cream and pulse until puréed, about 20 pulses. Pour into the prepared dish and set aside to cool. 8. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Bring to room temperature before you transport it, about 2 hours out of the fridge. 9. When you arrive at the party, you can either warm the dip in the microwave on medium power for about 2 minutes, or, if there is room in the oven, put it in at 350° to 400°F—or whatever temperature is available—and leave it for 20 minutes. Serve with warm baguette slices or small, one-bite crackers.

Black Olive Tapenade MAKES 1 CUP

1 cup pitted kalamata olives 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest 2 teaspoons fresh garlic, minced

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons minced Italian parsley pinch hot pepper flakes

1. Combine all ingredients in bowl of a food processor and pulse to a rough paste. Adjust seasoning to taste. 2. Transfer to a covered container and refrigerate. Stir and bring to room temperature before serving. Tip: Place a teaspoon in the serving bowl for spreading tapenade—it’s much easier than a knife.

28 real food winter 2017

CAULIFLOWER AND THYME DIP WITH BLACK OLIVE TAPENADE

winter 2017 real food 29

HORS D’OEUVRE TRAVEL TIPS For crisp hors d’oeuvres, I lay down two layers of paper towels in the bottom of a plastic container and pack the hors d’oeuvres side by side with a little space between so they don’t get soggy. If the hors d’oeuvres are not crisp, like stuffed cherry tomatoes, grilled chicken pieces, tea sandwiches etc., I dampen a paper towel, lay it flat and arrange the hors d’oeuvres on that, side by side so they don’t roll around. Any space that’s not filled, I crumple more paper towel and pack it into that area to keep the food stable. Crisp things—chicken fingers, crab cakes, cheese straws, etc.— I wait to pack until they are completely cold. Line a container with plastic wrap; then lay the food in an even layer and cover with parchment (baking) paper. Then you can repeat this process two or three times. The food will have to be reheated once you get to the party but will not be soggy or smashed. If your food will need a skewer, wait to insert it until you get where you’re going. If you will need to reheat your food, take a small pan with you so you don’t need to bother the host to look for one of theirs, especially if you need a non-stick pan.

RUTABAGA MASH WITH PARMESAN CRUST

30 real food winter 2017

Rutabaga Mash with Parmesan Crust MAKES 10 TO 12 SERVINGS

This mash is very easy in proportion to the attention it causes. I have seen many rather hurried trips back to the buffet table by people who didn’t trust their instincts enough to take their fair share at the first pass. The vegetables are kept pure and simple, and their earthy flavors work wonderfully well with almost any stew, roast or potpie. To make it more of a meal for vegetarian guests, I threw on cheese, and the result was so good, I always use it. 1 1½ 1½ 6 2 1 1

(2-pound) rutabaga, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes pounds carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks pounds russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks ounces (1½ sticks) unsalted butter teaspoons salt, if vegetables cooked in unsalted water teaspoon freshly ground black pepper cup shaved or 3⁄4 cup grated, high quality Parmesan cheese

1. Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 400°F. Butter a 2-quart, oven-proof dish and set aside. 2. Put the rutabaga, carrots and potatoes each in separate saucepans and add boiling water to nearly cover each vegetable. Salt the water very well, if desired, or add salt to finished mash. Cover and bring back to a brisk simmer. 3. Cook until the point of a knife enters each vegetable easily. The potatoes and carrots will take about 25 minutes; the rutabaga will take about 40 to 50 minutes. 4. Drain the potatoes and carrots as ready and tip into the work bowl of an electric mixer. Using the K-beater on low speed, immediately beat them together, or separately, until roughly mashed. Add half the butter and raise the speed for 30 seconds. Transfer to a large bowl and set aside. 5. As soon as the rutabaga is ready, drain well and using the same bowl and whisk, slowly beat it to a mash. Then add the remaining butter and beat for 30 seconds at higher speed. Mix the two mashes together and taste for seasoning. 6. Scrape into the prepared dish and rough up the surface with a big fork. Scatter with the Parmesan and bake for 15 minutes.

NUTRITION

Cook’s Notes: • Once root vegetables cool down, they will not mash well. If the potatoes are ready before the carrots, mash the potatoes and wait to mash the carrots. This is not a purée; it is okay to have some rough lumps in the mix. Don’t add milk or cream; it will dilute the wonderful root vegetable flavor. • You can fully prepare this, including baking, if you are taking it to a gettogether on the same day. You could also make it a day before and bake it on the day of the party. Reheat at the party for about 20 minutes at 375°F. It's fine if the host’s oven is at 350°F; it might take a bit longer to heat.

The Pomme Pomme MAKES 1 QUART JUICE

This is a fantastic drink with or without the alcohol— the perfume of cardamom and the hit of ginger make it pretty much irresistible. The lemon sharpens the apple juice and the good news is you can make it a day, or even two days, ahead. You do not have to peel the apple or the ginger. Just be sure to use a Granny Smith apple since some other varieties can be too sweet. 32 8 2 1 1 1

ounces chilled, clear apple juice strips lemon zest, removed with a peeler heaping tablespoons chopped fresh ginger Granny Smith apple, cored tablespoon lemon juice tablespoon green cardamom pods

2 ounces rye whiskey, per drink (optional) 1. Put half the apple juice and all the other ingredients, except the rye whiskey, in a blender and blend well. 2. Leave the mixture for 1 hour and then strain into a pitcher, adding the remaining apple juice and pressing down on the purée to extract all the liquid. This can be refrigerated overnight or used immediately. 3. Pour juice mixture into a rocks glass full of ice. 4. Stir in rye whiskey, if desired. Cook’s Note: If you will be taking this drink to a party, you could pour the flavored juice back into the original container for transport. The whiskey is separate. ■

TURKEY MEATBALLS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 81 (58 from fat); FAT 7g (sat. 2g); CHOL 35mg; SODIUM 176mg; CARB 1g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 4g

CHICKEN STRIPS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 198 (73 from fat); FAT 8g (sat. 2g); CHOL 47mg; SODIUM 546mg; CARB 17g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 14g

CHIPOTLE MAYONNAISE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 126 (123 from fat); FAT 14g (sat. 1g); CHOL 9mg; SODIUM 116mg; CARB 0g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 0g

MUSHROOM TART: PER SERVING: CALORIES 40 (25 from fat); FAT 3g (sat. 1g); CHOL 4mg; SODIUM 90mg; CARB 3g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 1g

CAULIFLOWER DIP: PER SERVING: CALORIES 26 (19 from fat); FAT 2g (sat. 0g); CHOL 1mg; SODIUM 79mg; CARB 2g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 1g

BLACK OLIVE TAPENADE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 19 (16 from fat); FAT 2g (sat. 0g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 68mg; CARB 1g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 0g

RUTABAGA MASH: PER SERVING: CALORIES 238 (130 from fat); FAT 15g (sat. 9g); CHOL 38mg; SODIUM 586mg; CARB 23g; FIBER 4g; PROTEIN 5g

POMME POMME: PER SERVING: CALORIES 195 (2 from fat); FAT 0g (sat. 0g); CHOL 0mg; SODIUM 6mg; CARB 16g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 0g

CHICKEN TART: PER SERVING: CALORIES 54 (29 from fat); FAT 3g (sat. 0g); CHOL 8mg; SODIUM 74mg; CARB 3g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 3g

winter 2017 real food 31

Pairing Principles Cheese with wine … or cheese with beer? You won’t be surprised to know the answer is “yes.” BY JANET FLETCHER

RECIPE (RECIPE PAGE XX)

32 real food winter 2017

f you’re entertaining this holiday season and unsure of guests’ preferences to pair with cheese, cover your bases by offering

both wine and beer (plus some non-alcoholic options, of course). “Something for everyone” is always a good policy. But if you plan to uncork a special bottle of wine at a dinner party—maybe something you’ve stashed away for years—you’ll want a more carefully considered cheese course that doesn’t upstage it. Or maybe you’ve splurged on some pricey holiday ale and want to be sure you showcase it with appropriate cheeses. Mastering a few basic pairing principles will boost your confidence and improve your outcomes. Whether your starting point is the cheese or the beverage, keep these general guidelines in mind. Try to match intensities. Pair delicate fresh cheeses with lightbodied, youthful wines—think Sauvignon Blanc—or with relatively low-alcohol beer styles such as kölsch. With bigger, bolder cheeses with more concentrated flavor, choose more powerful wines, like Syrah or Cabernet Sauvignon, and strong beers, such as Belgian dubbels and tripels. Aim for contrasts and complements. Two obviously different

OPPOSITE HITDELIGHT - FOTOLIA.COM PHOTO NATHANAEL ASARO - FOTOLIA.COM

strategies, but both can make marriages work. Imagine a luscious triple-cream cheese like Brillat-Savarin paired with a brisk sparkling wine. One is rich, the other lean, but together they’re magic. The cheese coats your palate, the bubbles scrub it clean. Alternatively, you can reach for an echo, or complement, by pairing that plush cheese with a velvet-textured, lightly-carbonated beer, like an oatmeal stout or imperial porter. Aroma complements are fun to play with, too: try pairing a nutty mountain cheese like Comté with the roasty, toasty aromas of doppelbock. Location, location, location. You’ve probably heard it said that “what grows together goes together.” Although there’s no logical reason that a cheese should taste better with a brew from the same region, it’s still satisfying to experience the match. The other two pairing principles should take precedence, but if you can layer in a local or regional theme, so much the better. How about an all-Midwest cheese platter with a Midwest porter?

Practice the principles with some specific cheese types: With young, rindless cheeses such as mozzarella, burrata or fresh chèvre … Wine fans: Open a dry rosé, Sauvignon Blanc, Vermentino or Pinot Grigio—all light-bodied wines that won’t overwhelm the cheese. Beer fans: Try a pilsner, kölsch, blonde ale or wheat beer. All are thirst-quenching styles that work well at the start of a meal with fresh cheeses. With bloomy-rind cheeses such as Camembert and Brie … Wine fans: Pour Chardonnay to echo the buttery notes or a Pinot Noir to complement the cheese’s mushroom scent. Beer fans: A fruity saison with its apple scent and moderate intensity is the ideal match here. Saison is as close as beer gets to dry cider, and Normandy cider is the classic pour for Camembert. With alpine-style wheels, such as Gruyère, Challerhocker or Pleasant Ridge Reserve … Wine fans: A buttery, oak-aged Chardonnay or silky Viognier would have the complementary texture and sufficient intensity for these aged cheeses. Beer fans: Complement the cheese’s nutty, brown-butter aromas with a Belgianstyle dubbel, a roasty stout or a Maibock.

winter 2017 real food 33

With aged sheep’s milk cheeses, such as Manchego, Pecorino Toscano or Ossau-Iraty … Wine fans: Bring out a Spanish Priorat, a Sangiovese or a Cabernet Sauvignon with a good tannic backbone to match the concentration of these cheeses. Beer fans: Serve a malty brown ale to echo the nutty notes in these cheeses.

Cheese Platter Pointers No time to cook? Make a stunning cheese platter the centerpiece of your holiday party. All you have to do is unwrap and arrange. Variety is the key to a compelling cheese tray. Select a range of styles from young to aged, soft to firm, and mild to pungent.

With washed-rind cheeses such as Taleggio, Epoisses and Red Hawk …

Diversity of shapes and colors will add eye appeal. Choose wedges,

Wine fans: These pungent cheeses can be challenging for wine. A spicy white wine such as Gewürztraminer or Pinot Gris can work, and a big Syrah can often stand up to the strong flavors.

butter-colored Fontina and pumpkin-hued Mimolette. And be sure

Beer fans: Pour a Belgian-style strong golden ale or tripel to counter the aromatic intensity of these cheeses. Sour ales can also be compatible with these stinkers.

make your offering more substantial. For a before-dinner cheese

With Cheddar … Wine fans: Red wine is a must. A Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon or Chianti Classico will have the power to balance Cheddar’s mouth-filling flower.

round disks and pyramids; contrast chalk-white goat cheese with you cover all milk types: cow, goat and sheep. Mixed-milk cheeses are another possibility—and don’t overlook water-buffalo cheese. Condiments aren’t essential but they dress up the platter and tray, stick with savory accompaniments such as roasted nuts, olives, breadsticks, pickles and salumi. If you will be serving the cheese at the end of the meal—in the French style—think sweet: dried fruit, honey, chutney, jam, quince paste or mostarda.

■

Beer fans: Tangy, sharp Cheddar pairs well with hop-forward styles such as IPA and pale ale; with a more mellow Cheddar, consider an English-style bitter or ESB.

Wine fans: The intensity and caramel-like sweetness of aged Gouda call for a nutty dessert wine such an oloroso sherry or Madeira. Beer fans: Open a Belgian-style quadrupel, a barley wine or a spiced holiday ale to match the cheese in strength and complement its toffee aroma. With blue cheeses, such as Stilton or Fourme d’Ambert … Wine fans: Don’t even think about a dry wine. Blue cheese needs a sweet companion, such an extra dry sparkling wine, late-harvest Sémillon, port or Sauternes. Beer fans: Imperial porters and stouts have enough heft for blue cheese, and their roasted-coffee aroma complements buttery blue cheeses. Tangy blue cheeses like Roquefort will pair better with sweet wine.

34 real food winter 2017

PHOTO ZAKIROFF - FOTOLIA.COM OPPOSITE SONYAKAMOZ - FOTOLIA.COM

With aged Gouda …

XXXXXXXXXXXXX (RECIPE PAGE XX)

Leftover Gold Bring new luster to holiday dinner extras

BY ROBIN ASBELL

here are perennial questions that come up in the months before the big holidays. People want

to know about the latest toys to give as gifts, where to find the best deals on electronics, and the price of plane tickets. But even more than these questions, people are Googling the pressing inquiries of “How many people does a 10-pound turkey feed?” and “What size ham should I buy for eight people?” Smart cooks know that the best strategy is to make a little extra. If you end up with leftover meat, that’s a good thing. Plan ahead, and you can set yourself up for some great meals. With these recipes, that last piece of the feast will go out in style.

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

36 real food winter 2017

HAM AND BRUSSELS SPROUT TART DIJON (RECIPE PAGE 45)

winter 2017 real food 37

Vietnamese Noodles with Ham and Cilantro MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Rice noodles are a fantastic way to get a meal on the table in a hurry. They cook in less than four minutes and soak up the flavors of this tasty sauce. Crisp, tender cabbage and carrots give the dish some snap, and the chopped ham is perfect with the sweet and sour flavors. Add Sriracha sauce to taste at the table so the folks who like it spicy can turn up the heat. 4 ounces rice vermicelli Sauce 2 tablespoons fish sauce 1 tablespoon rice vinegar 1 teaspoon sugar 1 teaspoon sesame seeds 1 tablespoon Sriracha sauce, plus more to taste

1 2 1 2 2

tablespoon canola oil cups shredded cabbage large carrot, julienned cloves garlic, chopped large scallions, white and green parts separated 11⁄2 cups chopped ham 2 ounces bean sprouts or pea shoots 1⁄2 cup cilantro, torn

1. Bring a large pot of water to boil. Drop the noodles in the boiling water just until cooked, about 4 minutes—different brands will have different cooking times. Drain and rinse with warm water, and reserve. 2. In a cup, add the fish sauce, rice vinegar, sugar, sesame seeds and Sriracha sauce and stir to combine; reserve. 3. Place a wok or large sauté pan over high heat, then drizzle in the canola oil, swirling to coat the pan. Add the cabbage and carrot and stir for 1 minute, then add the garlic and the white parts of the scallions. Stir for a few seconds, then add the ham. Stir until everything is warmed, then add the noodles, stir, and drizzle the sauce over the contents of the pan. Stir and turn the mixture until heated through. Add the bean sprouts and the green parts of the scallions and stir. Serve topped with cilantro. Offer Sriracha sauce at the table. No leftovers? Use 8 ounces (1⁄2 pound) deli ham.

LOVING YOUR LEFTOVER MASHED POTATOES AND SQUASH • Mashed potatoes can be spun into a variety of delectable cakes and croquettes. Just stir in 1 egg to bind, a little cheese and a pinch of herbs— and even a bit of leftover corn or peas. Form into patties or balls and chill. Fry in a little oil in a pan. • Sauté an onion, stir in mashed potatoes or squash, and stir in milk until you have soup. Season with herbs, or stir in some chopped fresh spinach and heat just until it’s softened. • Leftover squash can be used in muffins, cakes and pie. Simply substitute the same amount in recipes that call for pumpkin. • Shepherd’s Pie: Make the Turkey Potpie recipe (page 41), and instead of pastry, top with mashed potatoes or squash. Bake it a little longer until the filling is bubbly and the top is browned. • Use mashed potatoes in place of breadcrumbs in meatloaf for a creamy twist. • Stir leftover baked squash into hot cereals and drizzle with maple syrup.

38 real food winter 2017

VIETNAMESE NOODLES WITH HAM AND CILANTRO

winter 2017 real food 39

TURKEY POTPIE

40 real food winter 2017

Turkey Potpie MAKES 5 INDIVIDUAL RAMEKINS OR 1 PIE (8 SERVINGS)

Potpie is the old-fashioned, frugal cook’s way to make a little bit of leftover meat feed a whole family. The bubbling, creamy filling capped by a tender, flaky pastry lid is so delicious and comforting that your family will sing your praises. Filling 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1 cup chopped carrot, about 1 large 1 cup chopped parsnip, about 1 medium 1 tablespoon fresh sage, chopped 3 tablespoons flour 11⁄2 cups chicken stock 1⁄2 cup half-and-half 2 cups cubed cooked turkey 1⁄2 cup frozen peas 1⁄2 teaspoon salt 1⁄2 teaspoon pepper

Pastry Dough 1 cup flour 1⁄2 teaspoon salt 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cold 3 tablespoons ice water, or more if needed 1 large egg

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Set aside either five 1-cup ramekins or an 8-inch square baking. 2. In a 2-quart pot, melt the tablespoon of butter over medium-high heat. Add the carrot and parsnip and sauté for 1 minute, then add the sage, reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer until the vegetables are tender when pierced with a paring knife, about 10 minutes. 3. Sprinkle the flour over the vegetables, stirring until all of the flour is moistened and cooked, about 2 minutes. Gradually stir in the stock, 1⁄2 cup at a time, then the half-and-half. Increase the heat to medium and stir frequently until the mixture starts to bubble. Remove from heat and stir in the turkey, peas, salt and pepper. Let the pot stand in a warm spot while you prepare the pastry. 4. For the pastry: While the vegetables are cooking, place the flour and salt in a large bowl and whisk to combine. Use the coarse side of a grater to grate in the butter, and toss to coat. Use a fork to fluff the mixture as you drizzle in the ice water, then start gently squeezing the flour mixture to form dough. You may need to drizzle in 1 tablespoon or so more water, just to make it hold together. Form 5 rounds or 1 squared sheet of dough, and place on a plate to chill for 30 minutes. 5. Roll out each round enough to cover a ramekin and hang down ½ inch or roll out the dough to an 8-inch square (about 1⁄8-inch thick). 6. Portion the filling into either ramekins or the square pan. 7. For ramekins, place the dough on top of each ramekin, and cut two slashes in each middle. 8. For the square pan, cut the dough into 9 even squares, by cutting three by three. Place the squares on top of the filling. 9. Whisk egg with 1 tablespoon water. Brush dough with egg wash and bake—about 25 minutes for ramekins, 35 minutes for the square pan. The filling should be bubbling up through the center, and the pastry should be golden. Let stand for 5 minutes before serving. No leftovers? Use 12 ounces deli turkey or substitute rotisserie chicken for the 2 cups turkey.

Turkey and White Bean Soup with Pistou MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS (PHOTO ON PAGE 2)

If you have canned navy beans, a carrot and an onion on hand, you are halfway to soup. Use up the last of the holiday turkey in this savory bean soup, which is made extra special with a generous spoonful of pistou—the French version of Italy’s pesto—swirled into every bowl. Soup 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 medium onion, chopped 1 large carrot, peeled and sliced 3 cloves garlic, chopped 1 tablespoon fresh rosemary, chopped 2 cups chicken stock 2 (15-ounce) cans navy beans, with juices 1 (15-ounce) can diced tomatoes, with juices 2 cups cubed cooked turkey 1⁄2 teaspoon salt Pistou 1 cup fresh basil 1 cup fresh parsley 2 cloves garlic 1⁄4 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more if needed 1. For the soup: In a large pot, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion, carrot, garlic and rosemary and sauté, stirring, for about 5 minutes. 2. Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer for about 5 minutes, until the carrots are tender. 3. Stir in the navy beans and their juices, tomatoes, cooked turkey and salt. Bring to a boil and simmer gently for about 5 minutes. 4. For the pistou: Place the basil, parsley and garlic in the bowl of a food processor. Process to grind finely. Add the salt and olive oil and process until smooth, adding a little more oil if necessary to make a smooth paste. 5. Serve soup in bowls, drizzled with pistou. No leftovers? Use 12 ounces deli turkey or substitute rotisserie chicken for the 2 cups turkey.

winter 2017 real food 41

Roast Beef Tacos with Pineapple Salsa MAKES 8 TACOS

Save that falling-apart roast beef and make it into a spectacular taco feast. The beef gets a quick boost of flavor from sautéed onions, smoky chipotle and spices before it mixes in a tortilla with creamy cheese, crisp lettuce, and a sweet and spicy salsa. Pineapple Salsa 1⁄2 medium pineapple, 2 cups, peeled and chopped 1⁄2 cup red onion, diced 2 large jalapeños, seeded, deveined and finely diced 1⁄4 cup cilantro, chopped 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice 1⁄2 teaspoon salt 1 medium avocado, diced

Taco Filling 1 tablespoon canola oil 1 large onion, chopped 1⁄2 teaspoon chipotle powder, plus more to taste 1 teaspoon cumin 1 teaspoon oregano 3 cups shredded cooked roast beef

8 corn tortillas or small flour tortillas Toppings 1 medium romaine heart, sliced 4 ounces Monterey Jack cheese, shredded 1. Make the salsa: In a medium bowl, combine the pineapple, red onion, jalapeños, cilantro, lime juice, salt and avocado, and toss to mix. Refrigerate until time to serve. 2. For the taco filling: Heat oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat and add the onion. Stir frequently until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the chipotle powder, cumin and oregano, and stir for a few seconds. Add the cooked beef and stir to coat with spices. When heated through, keep warm until time to serve. 3. Build your tacos, one at a time, layering the shredded beef, cheese, lettuce and Pineapple Salsa onto the tortillas. No leftovers? Use 1 pound cooked beef.

JAZZ UP LEFTOVERS IN SANDWICHES

One of the glories of holiday dinner is the sandwich of leftover turkey, cranberry sauce and mashed potatoes on a crescent roll. If that works for you, bon appétit! If you are looking for some different sandwich ideas, check out these suggestions for turkey and roast beef. Roast Beef • On a baguette: Tuck in beef, black olive tapenade and sautéed mushrooms. • Ciabatta bread: Make a sauce of sour cream and a minced radish, salt to taste and serve on the beef and top with fresh spinach. • Bun: Toss the roast beef with a barbecue sauce and serve it in a bun with pickles. • Open-faced sandwich: On bread of choice, top roast beef with red onions and Swiss cheese, and place it under the broiler to melt and brown the cheese.

42 real food winter 2017

Turkey • Stuff a pita with turkey, crumbled feta, and fresh spinach tossed with vinaigrette, or fill the pita with hummus, turkey and cucumber slices. • Toast rye bread; stack turkey, sauerkraut and Swiss cheese, and add Dijon and mayo. • Top a baguette with turkey, Sriracha mayo, sweet pickle relish and sprouts for a little Banh Mi flair, or go with pesto, sliced provolone and mixed greens for an Italian flavor.

ROAST BEEF TACOS WITH PINEAPPLE SALSA

winter 2017 real food 43

GREEN CURRY PORK ROAST WITH BROWN RICE

44 real food winter 2017

Green Curry Pork Roast with Brown Rice

Ham and Brussels Sprout Tart Dijon

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

That chunk of leftover pork roast will take on a new persona with a bath in lush coconut milk and curry spices. The cubes of sweet potato simmer to a buttery softness and make the creamy curry ever so comforting.

In this gorgeous tart, a slab of leftover ham gains new life with Dijon-coated, roasted Brussels sprouts and savory Swiss cheese. I used Jarlsberg, but you can use the Swiss of your choice. Thaw the puff pastry overnight in the refrigerator for best results; you can rewrap and refreeze the second sheet in the package for another day.

3 1 1 1 2 1 1 2 1 1⁄2 1⁄2

cups cubed cooked pork roast cup medium-grain brown rice (15-ounce) can coconut milk tablespoon green curry paste, to taste tablespoons light brown sugar tablespoon soy sauce large lime, divided cups cubed sweet potato (about 1 potato) small yellow bell pepper, chopped cup frozen peas cup fresh basil, julienned

1. Cube the cooked pork and reserve. 2. Bring 11⁄2 cups water to a boil in a small pot, then add the brown rice. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low and cover tightly. Cook for 40 minutes, or until the water is all absorbed. Remove from heat and let stand, covered, until ready to serve. 3. In a wok or large skillet, heat coconut milk. Add curry paste and mix well, then stir in brown sugar and soy sauce. Bring to a simmer and stir until fragrant. Taste for heat—if it seems mild, add 1 teaspoon curry paste at a time until you reach desired heat. Add half of the lime, sweet potato and yellow bell pepper, and cook until the vegetables are soft and the sauce is slightly thickened. Add the pork and simmer to heat through. Then add the peas and stir gently until the peas are bright green. Mash the lime and then discard it. 4. Serve over rice, top with basil and garnish with lime wedges. No leftovers? Use 1 pound fresh pork and cook as desired.

SAFETY FIRST The most important thing about leftover

NUTRITION

turkey, ham and other meats is to keep them safe to eat. Don’t leave the roast out for hours and then start putting it away at bedtime. That centerpiece turkey or ham, once cooled, needs to be refrigerated. Pull the meat as soon as the meal has ended, or chill the whole carcass or roast until the next day. Portion and freeze it or make one of the recipes here.

NOODLES W. HAM: PER SERVING: CALORIES 293 (91 from fat); FAT 10g (s a t . 2 g) ; C H O L 3 3 m g ; SODIUM 1703mg; CARB 32g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 18g

TURKEY POTPIE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 409 (199 from fat); FAT 23g (sat. 13g); CHOL 128mg; SODIUM 681mg; CARB 32g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 20g

TURKEY & BEAN SOUP: PER SERVING: CALORIES 429 (143 from fat); FAT 16g (sat. 3g); CHOL 73mg; SODIUM 1192mg; CARB 40g; FIBER 15g; PROTEIN 33g

flour, for dusting work surface 1 sheet (8 ounces) puff pastry, thawed 1 large egg 1 pound Brussels sprout, trimmed and halved if small, quartered if large 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1⁄4 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon dried thyme 3⁄4 cup (4 ounces) cubed ham 1 heaping cup (4 ounces) shredded Swiss cheese 1. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and preheat the oven to 400°F. 2. Dust counter or work surface with flour. Unfold pastry onto floured surface and roll out to a 13x11-inch rectangle. Place the pastry on the parchment-lined pan. 3. Whisk egg with 1 tablespoon water. Brush ½-inch rim with egg wash, fold over the pastry and press with a fork in a few spots to seal. (Save the remaining egg wash for later.) Place in the refrigerator and chill 30 minutes. 4. Toss Brussels sprouts with olive oil, salt, Dijon mustard and thyme in a 9x13-inch baking dish, and roast, uncovered, until softened, 15 minutes. Place the pan on a rack to cool, and add the chopped ham and toss to mix. 5. Remove the pastry from the refrigerator, and brush the entire surface of the pastry with remaining egg wash. Cover the pastry with Brussels sprouts and ham and then sprinkle with Swiss cheese. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the pastry is deep golden brown and the cheese has some golden spots. Cut in 6 pieces and serve. No leftovers? Use 4 ounces (1⁄4 pound) deli ham. ■

ROAST BEEF TACOS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 310 (142 from fat); FAT 16g (sat. 6g); CHOL 46mg; SODIUM 351mg; CARB 25g; FIBER 5g; PROTEIN 18g

CURRY PORK ROAST: PER SERVING: CALORIES 545 (229 from fat); FAT 27g (sat. 17g); CHOL 55mg; SODIUM 414mg; CARB 54g; FIBER 5g; PROTEIN 25g

TART: PER SERVING: CALORIES 480 (296 from fat); FAT 34g (sat. 10g); CHOL 63mg; SODIUM 787mg; CARB 28g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 18g

winter 2017 real food 45

Creative Cookies

Sweeten the holidays with festive treats to serve and share

MERINGUE SNOWMEN COOKIES (RECIPE PAGE 50)

BY HANNAH MILES

GINGERBREAD VIENNESE WHIRL SANDWICH COOKIES (RECIPE PAGE 49)

o other holiday lends itself to the fun of decorative cookies

as much as Christmas does. It’s the time when friends and family drop by to visit, and having festive cookies in a jar makes entertaining easy. Cookies also make perfect gifts wrapped in clear plastic film and tied with festive ribbon in a bow. The best thing about cookies is the short time they take to bake—only around 10 minutes. Simply turn the oven on, and in no time at all you will have a kitchen filled with the delicious scents of sugar and spices, and the promise of cookies ready to eat. Make today a festive cookie day!

SANTA COOKIES (RECIPE PAGE 49)

winter 2017 real food 47

Coconut Snowballs MAKES 18 COOKIES

Powdery snow is one of the highlights of winter—perfect for sledding and snowball fights. These are my snowball cookies—with a crisp coconut cookie base, topped with a gooey coconut meringue and a hidden coconut-chocolate surprise inside. Perfect for serving with hot chocolate after a chilly snowball fight. If you do not have mini Bounties or Mounds, use two regular bars instead and cut each into nine pieces. For the Cookies 21⁄2 tablespoons superfine or granulated sugar 1⁄2 stick butter, softened 2⁄3 cup all-purpose flour, sifted, plus extra for dusting 1 tablespoon cream cheese 3⁄4 cup soft shredded coconut

For the Meringue 2 extra large egg whites 1⁄2 cup superfine or granulated sugar 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract or 1⁄2 teaspoon vanilla bean powder 9 mini coconut chocolates, such as Bounty bars or Mounds, cut in half 3⁄4 cup soft shredded coconut

1. Begin by making the coconut cookies. In a mixing bowl, whisk together the sugar and butter until soft and creamy. Add the flour and cream cheese and mix to a soft dough. Fold in the coconut. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and chill in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. 2. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease and line 2 large baking sheets with parchment paper. 3. On a flour-dusted surface, roll out the dough thinly. Cut out 18 rounds of cookie dough using a 2-inch round cutter and place on the prepared baking sheets, leaving space between them. Bake for about 8 to 10 minutes until golden brown. Leave to cool on the baking sheets. 4. Turn the oven temperature down to the lowest setting, around 200°F. It is important that the temperature has dropped completely from cooking the cookies before you cook the meringue; otherwise, the meringue will turn a caramel color rather than staying white like a snowball. 5. In a clean, dry bowl, whisk the egg whites to stiff peaks. Add the sugar into the meringue a spoonful at a time, whisking all the time. Whisk until all the sugar is incorporated and you have a smooth, glossy meringue. Whisk in the vanilla. 6. Place a piece of mini Bounty or Mounds into the center of each cookie. Using an ice cream scoop, place scoops of meringue on top of each cookie, making sure the Bounty or Mounds piece is covered. Sprinkle the meringue with the soft shredded coconut. Bake in the oven for about 1 to 1½ hours until the meringues are crisp on the outside but are still white in color and have a gooey center. These cookies will keep for up to 3 days in an airtight container.

48 real food winter 2017

Gingerbread Viennese Whirl Sandwich Cookies

Santa Cookies

MAKES 14 COOKIES

These festive Santas are decorated using royal icing. Simple diamond shaped cookies give the perfect shape for Santa’s hat and beard.

I love Viennese whirls—light and crumbly cookies that just melt in the mouth. These are flavored with gingerbread spices for a festive flavor. If you do not have gingerbread syrup, use ginger syrup instead or any other flavored syrup of your choosing, such as cinnamon or vanilla. For the Cookies 11⁄2 sticks butter, softened 1⁄3 cup confectioners’ sugar, sifted, plus extra for dusting 11⁄3 cups all-purpose flour, sifted 1⁄4 cup gingerbread syrup 1 teaspoon gingerbread spice mix or ground cinnamon For the Filling 2 cups confectioners’ sugar, sifted 1⁄4 stick butter, softened 1 ounce cream cheese 1 tablespoon gingerbread syrup 1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment. 2. In a mixing bowl, cream together the butter and sugar. The butter must be very soft; otherwise, the dough will be difficult to pipe. Add the flour, syrup and spice, and whisk until you have a smooth, soft dough. 3. Fit 2 piping/pastry bags with large star nozzles/tips. Spoon the dough into one of the bags and pipe 28 rosettes or swirls of the dough onto the baking sheets. The cookies will spread, so make sure that you leave gaps between them. 4. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes until golden brown. Watch carefully toward the end of cooking as they can turn dark brown quickly. Leave the cookies to cool on a cooling rack. I do this by lifting the baking parchment sheet carefully onto a cooling rack. 5. For the filling, whisk together the sugar, butter, cream cheese and syrup until light and creamy. Spoon into the second piping/pastry bag and chill in the refrigerator until the icing becomes firm. 6. Bring the icing to room temperature; then pipe a swirl of icing onto the flat side of half of the cookies; then sandwich them together with the uniced cookies. Place in cupcake cups to serve and dust with a little confectioners’ sugar. These cookies will keep for 3 days in an airtight container.

MAKES 10 COOKIES

For the Cookies 1 stick butter, softened 5 tablespoons superfine or granulated sugar 11⁄4 cups all-purpose flour, sifted, plus extra for dusting grated zest of 2 clementines a little milk, if needed For the Decoration 3 cups royal icing/confectioners’ sugar, sifted red and black food coloring gels large white snowflake sprinkles, or similar 1. Whisk together the butter and sugar until light and creamy. Sift in the flour and whisk in the clementine zest until you have a soft dough, adding a little milk if needed. Wrap in clingfilm/plastic wrap and chill in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. 2. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease and line 2 baking sheets. 3. On a flour-dusted surface, roll out the dough to about ¼-inch thickness and cut out 10 diamonds with 3¼-inch sides using a sharp knife. Transfer them to the baking sheets using a spatula. Reroll the dough as necessary. 4. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes until the cookies are lightly golden brown. Transfer to a cooling rack to cool completely. 5. For the icing: Whisk the sugar with 3 to 4 tablespoons of water until you have a stiff icing that holds a peak. Set aside two-thirds of this icing. Color the remaining icing red. 6. Spoon 2 large spoonfuls of red icing into a disposable piping/ pastry bag. Spoon 5 large spoonfuls of white icing into another. Take the red icing bag and pipe a fine red line along the top edge of each cookie, following the triangle shape. Take the white icing bag and pipe the outline of the band of Santa’s hat along the base of each red triangle; then pipe a half-egg shape below that to create the outline for Santa’s face. 7. Scrape all of the red icing back into its bowl and about half of the white icing back into its bowl (reserving enough in the piping bag to pipe the beards on later). Add a little water to both the icings so that they are now thin enough to flow. 8. Spoon a little white icing into a small bowl and add enough red to create a pale pink. Flood a little pink icing in the piped half-egg face shape on each cookie. Do the same with the red icing in the hat outline, and then the white icing in the band of the hat outline. Dip a cocktail stick/toothpick into the red icing and swirl to add rosy cheeks. 9. Add some black food coloring to the remaining pink icing and use a cocktail stick/toothpick to add dots for eyes. 10. Finally pipe a white curly beard in the bottom of each cookie. Pipe a small blob of icing to the top of each hat and affix a sprinkle. Allow to set for 15 minutes. These will store for up to 5 days in an airtight container.

winter 2017 real food 49

Meringue Snowmen Cookies

Peppermint Bark

MAKES 14 COOKIES

MAKES 12 COOKIES

These cookies are topped with 3D snowmen made with meringue resting on a white chocolate snow scene. The cookies are bursting with white chocolate chips and are flavored with Lotus Biscoff crunchy spread which gives a delicious caramel flavor. If you do not have cookie spread then you can replace with smooth peanut butter instead.

Peppermint bark is one of the most traditional American Christmas candies—sheets of peppermint-flavored dark and white chocolate topped with candy cane sprinkles. These cookies are inspired by these treats—with a proper bark effect cookie! They are made using a clever “bark press” which is readily available in cake decorating stores or to order online, but if you don’t have a press you can easily create a bark pattern using the tines of a fork, or simply make plain cookies dipped in melted peppermint bark instead. Boxed, they make a beautiful gift.

For the Snowmen 1 egg white 5 tablespoons superfine or granulated sugar For the Cookies 1 stick butter, softened 2⁄3 cup superfine or granulated sugar scant 1⁄4 cup cream cheese 2 ounces Lotus Biscoff spread or peanut butter 11⁄4 cups self-raising/self-rising flour 31⁄2 ounces white chocolate chips To Decorate 5 ounces white chocolate, melted 3 tablespoons icing/confectioners’ sugar, sifted orange and black food coloring gel 1. Preheat the oven to the lowest possible setting, about 260°F. Prepare 2 large baking sheets—line with silicon mats or baking parchment. 2. Begin by making the snowmen. Whisk the egg white to stiff peaks. Add the sugar, a spoonful at a time, whisking constantly until the meringue is smooth and glossy. Spoon the meringue into the piping/pastry bag fitted with the large round nozzle/tip. 3. Pipe 14 circles of meringue about 1 inch in diameter on one of the baking sheets. On top of each of these, pipe a smaller ball for the snowman’s body and then a third slightly smaller one on top for the head. Bake for 45 to 60 minutes until the meringue is crisp. Leave to cool on the baking sheet. 4. Increase the oven temperature to 350°F. 5. Whisk together the butter, sugar and cream cheese until light and creamy. Add the biscuit spread or peanut butter and whisk in. Sift in the flour and whisk in, along with the white chocolate chips. 6. Place 14 spoonfuls of the dough on the second baking sheet a small distance apart. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes until the cookies are lightly golden brown. Leave to cool for a few minutes on the baking sheet and then transfer to a rack to cool completely. 7. Spoon a little of the melted white chocolate over each of the cookies and place a meringue snowman in the center of each. 8. In a mixing bowl, mix the icing/confectioners’ sugar with a little water and color with a few drops of orange food coloring. Use a cocktail stick/ toothpick to draw small orange noses on each of the snowmen. Add a few drops of black food coloring to the orange icing and then use a second cocktail stick/toothpick to add small black eyes, mouths, buttons and arms. Allow the icing and white chocolate to set. These cookies will keep for up to 3 days, but are best eaten on the day they are made.

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1 stick butter, softened 5 tablespoons superfine or granulated sugar generous 1 cup all-purpose flour, sifted, plus extra for dusting 3 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder, sifted 1 tablespoon milk, if needed 31⁄2 ounces white chocolate, broken into small pieces 1 teaspoon peppermint extract 2 tablespoons crushed sugar candy canes 1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease and line 2 baking sheets with parchment. 2. Whisk together the butter and sugar until light and creamy. Add the flour and cocoa and whisk together to make a soft dough. If the mixture is too crumbly, add a little milk. On a flour-dusted surface, roll out the dough to ¼-inch thickness and then cut out fingers of cookie dough about 5 x 1¼ inches in size. 3. Using a spatula, carefully lift the cookie shapes onto the prepared baking sheets. Press the bark press into the dough to make a bark pattern. If you do not have a bark press, make bark patterns in the dough by scraping it gently with the tines of a fork. 4. Bake in the preheated oven for 10 to 12 minutes until the cookies are just firm. Leave to cool on the baking sheets for 5 minutes and then move to a cooling rack to cool completely. 5. Melt the white chocolate in a heatproof bowl resting over a pan of simmering water. Stir in the peppermint extract. Dip the end of each cooled cookie in the melted chocolate and then sprinkle each with the crushed candy canes. Place on a sheet of baking parchment and leave in a cool place to set. The cookies will store for up to 5 days in an airtight container. It is best to store the cookies flat, in single layers, and between sheets of baking parchment. ■

NUTRITION

PEPPERMINT BARK

COCONUT SNOWBALLS: PER SERVING: CALORIES 142 (66 from fat); FAT 8g (sat. 6g); CHOL 8mg; SODIUM 42mg; CARB 18g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 2g

GINGERBREAD COOKIES: PER SERVING: CALORIES 273 (112 from fat); FAT 13g (sat. 8g); CHOL 34mg; SODIUM 102mg; CARB 39g; FIBER 0g; PROTEIN 2g

SANTA COOKIES: PER SERVING: CALORIES 299 (84 from fat); FAT 10g (sat. 6g); CHOL 25mg; SODIUM 87mg; CARB 52g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 3g

MERINGUE SNOWMEN COOKIES: PER SERVING: CALORIES 292 (136 from fat); FAT 16g (sat. 9g); CHOL 24mg; SODIUM 259mg; CARB 36g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 4g

PEPPERMINT BARK: PER SERVING: CALORIES 198 (95 from fat); FAT 11g (sat. 7g); CHOL 22mg; SODIUM 72mg; CARB 24g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 2g

PÃ&#x2030;PIN WITH GRANDDAUGHTER SHOREY

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Cooking up Food and Memories Acclaimed chef Jacques Pépin shares culinary and life lessons in the kitchen BY TARA Q. THOMAS

ALL PHOTOS TOM HOPKINS ILLUSTRATION JACQUES PÉPIN

fter 29 books, more than a dozen televiPépin also remembers when Claudine first sion shows, and countless classes and appeared with him on a show. “She was still in public appearances, you would think that college, maybe 20, and I invited her on,” he says. Jacques Pépin might like a little break. Heck, he “I hadn’t told her the menu or what we were has garnered 16 James Beard Awards and even doing, thinking that she knew a lot of the dishes. been awarded the Légion d’Honneur by the But, on the show, she showed surprise, exclaimFrench government for all the work he has done ing, ‘Oh, that’s how you do that!’ Afterward, to promote French cuisine and culture; official people said, ‘Oh, that was good, you did that recognition for a chef doesn’t get better than for the camera,’ but she said, ‘No! My father that. Yet, while the 81-year-old Bourg-en-Bressecooked all my life; I just came home and ate it. born chef admits to taking out more time for I knew the dishes, but I didn’t know how they painting these days, he is deep in another cookwere done.’ ” ing project when I talked to him this summer: a Shorey was in no danger of growing up withbook and video series about cooking with his out learning how to cook—her mother Claudine granddaughter, Shorey. is an accomplished cook and author of Let’s Cook “Shorey is 13, but she looks like she’s 17; she’s French, a bilingual family-oriented cookbook, very sophisticated for her age,” Pépin tells me, his and her father is Rolland Wesen, a chef-instructor grandfatherly pride apparent as he talks about his at the celebrated culinary school of Johnson & daughter Claudine Pépin’s only child. He and Wales University in Rhode Island. Even without Shorey have been playing around in the kitchen culinary parents, the kitchen is a powerful place since she was about 6 years old, he says. It was for a child; oftentimes, some of our first memoaround that time that Pépin was taping cooking ries are formed there. “There’s no better place to shows with Claudine, and Shorey wanted to come be after school,” Pépin says. along. “Shorey wanted to see “I remember as a kid, me cook, and I put her on a even as a baby—there was “I like to cook with Papi show,” Pépin says. “She loved no babysitter at the time, it,” he says, noting that she is so what do you do with because I enjoy learning as comfortable on camera as the kid? You put them in a about his life and listening her mother. crib in the corner of the

to his stories.”

winter 2017 real food 53

“You hear the voices of your parents, the clang of the pots; you smell food cooking; you build memory that’s very visceral— those tastes, the smell, the sound.” —Jacques Pépin —J

54 real food winter 2017

kitchen!” says Pépin. “You hear the voices of your parents, the clang of the pots; you smell food cooking; you build memory that’s very visceral—those tastes, the smell, the sound.” Keeping with the tradition, Pépin would spend time with Shorey in the kitchen instead of at the playground. “Not like she’s crazy about cooking all the time; she’s a kid,” he adds. But food has an unmatched power to nourish us inside and out and to create bonds with the people who share it, so when Pépin suggested they work together on a book and some videos to go with it, Shorey was enthusiastic. A Grandfather’s Lessons: In the Kitchen with Shorey is the result, complemented by a series of video lessons for many of the recipes, available at surlatable.com. The book is a true collaboration, featuring not only dishes Pépin has introduced to Shorey but also favorites from the rest of her family, such as the puffy, tender pancakes grandmother Gloria Pépin makes for her when she sleeps over or her mom’s spaghetti Bolognese. Each recipe provides a sweet glimpse into the Pépin family life and an opportunity for Pépin to offer cooking advice like this pro tip for the Bolognese: Crush the ground beef with some chicken stock before adding it to the sauce so that the meat doesn’t clump. Perhaps what’s most striking about the book is what it can tell us about cooking with children. A grandfather has a different relationship with a child than a parent or babysitter, and, in Pépin’s case at least, it’s much less pressured. They aren’t cooking on a deadline, trying to get dinner on the table by a certain time in the evening. They are cooking for the fun of it and for the excuse to share time with each other—they have the time to let Shorey take the lead. “Sometimes I ask her, ‘What did you eat yesterday?’ ” says Pépin, “or, if we go to the market, I’ll ask, ‘Do you like this?’ When you’re 13 years old and most of your food choices are made by someone else, these moments are powerful.” The first recipe Pépin and Shorey ever made together was for chocolates since chocolate is her absolute favorite food. It is also forgiving— if you use Pépin’s microwave melting instructions. Not only do he and Shorey share their recipes for two sophisticated no-bake chocolate treats in A Grandfather’s Lessons, but they also demonstrate how to make chocolate bowls, a surprisingly easy trick for a showstopping dessert.

Despite any praise for Pépin’s precision and discipline in the kitchen, he is not above playing with his food and encourages Shorey’s inventiveness and artistic inclinations. Thus, there is a recipe for “mayogrette,” which is a mashup of mayonnaise and vinaigrette that they invented for potato salad. The book also includes directions for serving chicken salad in the shape of a rooster, with lettuce leaves for the tail feathers, a slice of hard-boiled egg for the head and pieces of red pepper standing in for the eyes, beaks, combs and feet. He comes by this attitude naturally, it seems. The recipe in the book for Curly Dogs—hot dogs that curl up in wheels while they cook— came out of his time at Howard Johnson’s, where he worked as the director of research and development with the hotels in the 1960s. “We did lots of things with hot dogs there,” he says. “I was always fooling around in the kitchen, trying to see what else we could do with them.” That playfulness wasn’t something he knew as a child. “Since age 6, I would help in the kitchen, as that was the way it was. We cleaned vegetables, washed dishes, peeled potatoes, did the string beans,” he says, recalling one incident quite vividly. “I was probably not more than 6, and my brother and I were commanded to string the beans. We strung them down one side and then on the other; back then, if we didn’t, they would be inedible. Well, we thought it would be easier to take a scissors to them. And of course, they weren’t edible.” By the time Pépin was 14, he had left home to start an apprenticeship at a restaurant, where he lived, worked and breathed cooking every moment of every day. “Sure, it was hard,” he admits, “but I had blinders on at the time: TV didn’t exist; the phone didn’t, even—my mom had the first one in the village at the café. There weren’t really newspapers and magazines. So wherever you lived, you looked at your family and that’s what you did. My mom was a cook, my dad a cabinet maker; I never thought I could be a doctor or a lawyer; that was another world.” For Pépin to get to the point of cooking as fun took work, whereas for Shorey it’s all fun— a time to get to know her grandfather and hear his many stories while whipping up something delicious in the kitchen. Yet, as the recipes in A Grandfather’s Lessons demonstrate, fun isn’t incompatible with serious cooking. “There are six different fish recipes in here because Shorey loves fish, and I wanted to show

people that cooking fish isn’t that hard. None of these recipes took more than five or ten minutes. And they are all very good. We did an arctic char where I cook it only on the skin side, then cover it so steam can cook it through: That way, it stays both moist and crisp,” Pépin says, and adds that the sauce takes about 45 seconds. For this, you purée one beautifully ripe tomato with salt, pepper and a little olive oil; microwave just long enough to warm through. Voilà—French cooking at its best. A Grandfather’s Lessons is filled with these sorts of tips, small trucs that have come out of a lifetime of cooking professionally. Pépin says that he has always liked to simplify the steps of cooking to get to the essentials, and he finds that, as he gets older, this urge to pare things back to their essentials is even more acute. “When I was a younger chef, I tended to add and add to the plate; as I get older I tend to take away and away,” he says. Part of this is metabolic—he simply can’t eat the way he used to—but it is also a return to how he learned to cook with his family. “There are 13 restaurants in my family, all cooked by women,” he says. “And this type of cooking—provincial or country cooking—in France, is beautiful without much embellishment. I go back more to that type of thing now.” You see this mentality in Pépin and Shorey’s lemon sole, in which nothing more than butter and lemon bring out the delicacy of the poached fish; or in Chicken Suprêmes in Persillade (at right), where quick-cooked chicken breasts are doused in an equally quick parsley sauce, the tender meat and vivid flavors belying the dish’s ease of preparation. It is recipes such as these that make A Grandfather’s Lessons valuable for cooks of any age. Use it to engage your children and grandchildren or, like Pépin does when Shorey is not around, to eat well and have time for more painting. ■

PÉPIN AND SHOREY MAKING ROAST CHICKEN ON GARLICKY SALAD

Chicken Suprêmes in Persillade MAKES 2 SERVINGS (SHOWN BELOW LEFT)

From turkey to chicken to duck, everyone at our house likes the legs best. But when Shorey asked me why the legs are usually moister and tastier than the breast, I explained to her that the breast is usually overcooked. To demonstrate, I cooked a chicken breast my way for her, and she loved it. The sautéing process takes only about 5 minutes, and then the dish is finished with garlic and parsley, called in French persillade, and some minced scallions. The parsley, garlic and scallions can be prepared ahead and the chicken sautéed at the last moment, though after the chicken is sautéed, it is good to let the meat rest for a couple of minutes before finishing the dish. Make sure you serve it on warm plates. 1 tablespoon peanut oil 2 skinless, boneless chicken breasts (5 to 6 ounces each), preferably organic ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 3 scallions, minced (1⁄3 cup) 2 tablespoons coarsely chopped garlic 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley 1 tablespoon water 1. Heat the peanut oil in a saucepan. 2. Sprinkle the chicken breasts with the salt and pepper, add to the hot pan, and sauté for about 3 minutes over high heat. Turn the breasts over, reduce the heat to medium, cover, and cook the chicken for about 3 minutes; it should be nicely browned on both sides and cooked through but still moist. Place the chicken breasts on warm plates. 3. Add the scallions, garlic and butter to the saucepan and cook for about 1 minute. Add the parsley and water and mix well to melt any solidified juices in the pan, then pour the sauce over the chicken. Serve immediately.

winter 2017 real food 55

pairings

Sweet Holiday Spirits Raise a glass to the season with cocktails and dessert BY MARY SUBIALKA

eave the milk and cookies for the kids and try pairing cocktails with your sweet treats this holiday season. When it comes to mixing it up with spirits, classic flavor combinations play well together both in food and in pairings. For the apple and cinnamon combination, mix up an apple cider martini to sip with apple pie. Cheesecake is often served topped with fruit—team it with fruity liqueurs and cocktails. If you can’t quite depart from coffee as a dessert partner, mix up a coffee martini. Chocolate and fruit make a delicious duo, too. Try a chocolate cocktail with a banana dessert or a chocolate orange drink with a citrus dessert. Chocolate treats are a natural with chocolate or peppermint cocktails. Chocolate also pairs well with a Brandy Alexander. This rich and creamy after dinner classic has a hint of spice that could also complement pumpkin pie or other desserts with similar seasonal flavors, as well as a variety of cookies including almond-flavored, sugar cookies and gingerbread. To mix it up: Pour 2 shots cognac or other brandy, ½ shot brown crème de cacao liqueur, ½ shot white crème de cacao liqueur, ½ shot heavy cream, and ½ shot milk into a shaker with ice. Shake and strain into a chilled martini glass. Dust with grated nutmeg. ■

PHOTO BY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLED BY LARA MIKLASEVICS

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