Roast Assured

ROSEMARY AND BLACK PEPPER CRUSTED RIB ROAST WITH HORSERADISH CREAM SAUCE (RECIPE PAGE 22)

Jump into the holiday spirit with these elegant ideas for roast beef, pork, turkey, ham and even salmon

BY MOLLY STEVENS

Many favorite holiday meals center around a thoughtfully prepared roast, and this year our festive lineup runs the gamut. Present a stately beef rib roast or a cozy fruit-stuffed pork tenderloin, or give your loved ones a rich glazed salmon or a single herb-flecked turkey breast. Of course, we’ve also got the goods for a gorgeous spice-rubbed turkey and everyone’s favorite glazed ham. You’ll find something for any size gathering and just about every appetite. So fire up your oven, set the table, pull out your carving knife and get ready to receive the praise every good host deserves.

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

Rosemary and Black Pepper Crusted Rib Roast with Horseradish Cream Sauce MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

When it comes to roast beef, nothing matches the meaty savor and juicy tenderness of a boneless rib roast, especially when enhanced with a rosemary-black-pepper crust and a cool, creamy horseradish-spiked sauce. It also happens to be a cinch to prepare.

1 4- to 41/2-pound boneless beef rib roast, fat trimmed to about 1/4 inch, tied at 2-inch intervals 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary 2 tablespoons cracked black pepper (or peppercorn mix) (See Cook’s Notes) 2 teaspoons kosher salt or 11/2 teaspoons fine table salt

For the Horseradish Cream Sauce 1 cup crème fraîche or sour cream 1/4 cup prepared horseradish 1 teaspoon dry mustard 1 teaspoon white wine vinegar 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce salt, to taste

1. Heat the oven to 450°F with an oven rack in the lower third. 2. Pat dry the beef and rub with oil. In a small bowl, combine the rosemary, pepper and salt and sprinkle over the entire surface of the roast. (The beef can be seasoned and refrigerated for up to 18 hours in advance.) Place the roast fat side up on a roasting rack in a shallow roasting pan. Roast for 20 minutes and then lower the oven temperature to 300°F. Continue to roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center reads 120°F for rare, 125°F to 130°F for mediumrare, or 135°F for medium—another 1 to 13/4 hours. 3. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk together the crème fraîche, horseradish, mustard, vinegar and Worcestershire. Season with salt to taste. Refrigerate until time to serve. 4. Transfer the roast to a carving board and let it rest, uncovered, for 15 to 20 minutes. Snip off the strings and carve into thick slices. Serve with sauce on the side.

Cook’s Notes:

• For best results, coarsely crack the peppercorns using a mortar and pestle, a spice grinder or the bottom of a heavy skillet. If ground pepper is the only option, use the coarsest grind you can and reduce the amount by half. • Letting the roast sit at room temperature for an hour before roasting helps it cook more evenly.

Lemon-Thyme Turkey Breast Roasted with Apples and Onions MAKES 3 TO 4 SERVINGS

A split turkey breast is the perfect choice when you want a splendid holiday roast for a small group. You can also double (or triple) the recipe to feed more—or if you want to guarantee leftovers for turkey sandwiches (see Cook’s Note). The roasted apples and onions caramelize into a sweet-tangy accompaniment.

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided (11/2 tablespoons softened, 11/2 tablespoons melted) 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme, plus a few sprigs 1 teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest salt and pepper, to taste 1 (3- to 4-pound) bone-in, split turkey breast 2 medium Granny Smith apples, cored and cut into 2-inch chunks 8 ounces cipollini onions, small shallots or pearl onions, peeled 11/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 1/2 cup low-sodium chicken broth

1. In a small bowl, combine the 1½ tablespoons softened butter with the chopped thyme, lemon zest, and a little salt and pepper. Mix with a wooden spoon until smooth. Gently loosen the skin on the turkey breast at either end (without releasing it completely) and rub the seasoned butter under the skin. Smooth the skin back in place and brush the top with about 1 teaspoon of the melted butter. Season with salt and pepper. (The turkey breast may be prepared to this point up to 2 days before roasting.) 2. Heat the oven to 450°F with an oven rack near the center. 3. Place the apples, onions, thyme sprigs, remaining melted butter, lemon juice and broth in a small roasting pan or baking dish. Season with salt and pepper and mix to combine. Place the turkey on top. Slide the pan into the oven and immediately lower the oven temperature to 325°F. Roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the breast registers 165°F, 11/2 to 2 hours, depending on the size of the turkey breast. 4. Transfer the turkey to a carving board and tent with foil to rest for 10 to 15 minutes. Stir the apples and onions. If they aren’t well browned, increase the oven temperature to 475°F and return the pan to the oven for another few minutes, watching that they don’t burn. 5. Carve the turkey and serve with the apples and onions.

Cook’s Notes:

• This recipe is easily multiplied; simply choose a roasting pan large enough to accommodate the turkey breast(s) without crowding. You can also use a whole bone-in turkey breast (the 2 breast halves intact) to serve 6 to 8; the roasting time will be about the same. • Alternatively, if you prefer dark meat, substitute fresh turkey legs and/or thighs for the breast, and roast until they reach an internal temperature of 175°F, 2 to 21/2 hours. The onions and apples will collapse a bit more, and they will be infused with rich turkey flavor.

LEMON-THYME TURKEY BREAST ROASTED WITH APPLES AND ONIONS

Dried Fruit and Nut Stuffed Pork Tenderloin MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

Transform simple pork tenderloin into an elegant roast by filling it with a dried apricot, cherry and pecan-studded stuffing. The recipe is easily scaled up or down to suit your household. For best flavor, stuff the pork several hours ahead. The optional pomegranate molasses enhances the color of the roast, but a simple brush with olive oil will do.

2 tablespoons butter 1/2 cup minced shallot 1 teaspoon dried herbes de Provence or Italian seasoning 1/2 cup chopped dried apricots 1/4 cup chopped dried tart cherries 1/4 cup fresh orange juice 1 teaspoon freshly grated orange zest 1/2 cup (about 2 ounces) minced prosciutto 1/2 cup chopped pecans, toasted (See Cook’s Note) 2 pork tenderloins (about 11/4 pounds each) 2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses (optional) 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1. Heat the butter in a small skillet over medium heat. Add the shallot and dried herbs. Season lightly with salt, and sauté, stirring often, until soft. Add the apricots, cherries and orange juice, and simmer until the juice is evaporated, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the orange zest, prosciutto and pecans. Season with salt and pepper. Cool to room temperature. 2. Use a sharp knife to cut a 11/2-inch deep pocket along the length of each pork tenderloin, stopping within 1/2 inch of either end. Season the meat all over with salt and pepper, including inside the pocket. Divide the stuffing between the 2 tenderloins, using your fingers to compact. Secure the roasts by tying loops of butcher’s twine every 2 to 3 inches along its length. (The pork may be refrigerated for up to 4 hours at this point.) 3. Heat the oven to 375°F with an oven rack near the center. 4. Arrange the stuffed tenderloins side by side without touching on a rimmed baking sheet. If using the pomegranate molasses, combine it with the olive oil and brush over the surface of the roasts. (If not using the molasses, brush the surface with olive oil). Roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the tenderloin registers 150°F, about 30 minutes. Transfer the pork to a carving board to rest for about 10 minutes. 5. Snip the strings from the roasts and carve into thick slices to serve. Cook’s Note: To toast pecans in a skillet, place them in a dry skillet over medium heat, shaking and stirring, until fragrant and beginning to darken, 3 to 5 minutes. Alternatively, spread them onto a rimmed baking sheet and toast in a 350°F oven, stirring once or twice, until toasted and fragrant, 8 to 10 minutes.

Spice-Rubbed Turkey with Mushroom Gravy MAKES 10 TO 12 SERVINGS

There are a few secrets to making a spectacular roast turkey. First, there’s a bold spice rub made from ground spices and dried mushrooms. Second, the giblets are simmered to create a flavorful broth that guarantees plenty of delicious gravy. And finally, the gravy gets a double dose of mushroom flavor with both dried and fresh ones. You can season the turkey and make the gravy base up to 2 days ahead of time.

1 13- to 14-pound fresh turkey, with giblets

For the Spice Rub 2 tablespoons coriander seed 1 tablespoon fennel seed 1/2 ounce dried mushrooms, such as porcini or shiitake (See Cook’s Note) 1 tablespoon dried oregano 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes 11/2 tablespoons kosher salt 1 tablespoon sweet paprika

3 garlic cloves, peeled 1 bay leaf

For the Mushroom Gravy 1 small onion, thinly sliced 1 small carrot, chopped 1 bay leaf 22/3 cups low-sodium chicken broth 1/2 ounce dried mushrooms, such as porcini or shiitake 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 large shallot or small onion, minced 6 ounces fresh mushrooms (button, baby bella or mixed), finely chopped 1/4 cup dry white wine or sherry 1/4 cup cornstarch salt and pepper, to taste

For Roasting 1 onion, coarsely chopped 1 carrot, coarsely chopped 1 celery stalk, coarsely chopped

1. Remove the giblets from the turkey and set them aside. Pat the turkey dry all over (including the cavity) with paper towels, and place it on a rack set on a large baking sheet. 2. For the Spice Rub: In a small skillet, toast the coriander and fennel over medium heat until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a spice grinder (or mortar) and add the dried mushrooms, oregano and red pepper flakes, and grind to a coarse powder. Pour into a small bowl and stir in the kosher salt and paprika. 3. Sprinkle a bit of the spice rub mix into the cavity, and then spread the remaining mix over the entire surface of the turkey. Place the garlic cloves and bay leaf in the cavity, tuck the wing tips behind the neck, and loosely tie the drumsticks together. Refrigerate the turkey, preferably uncovered, for at least 2 hours and up to 2 days. 4. Meanwhile, start the gravy by making a giblet broth: Place the turkey neck, heart and gizzard in a medium saucepan. (Do not use the liver; it will cloud the broth.) Add the sliced onion, carrot, bay leaf, chicken broth and 2 cups cool water, and bring to simmer over medium heat. Adjust the heat to simmer very slowly for 11/4 hours. Strain the broth, discarding the solids. You should have about 31/2 cups. 5. As the broth simmers, place the dried mushrooms in a small bowl and cover with 1 cup very warm water. After 1 hour, lift the mushrooms from the water, squeezing to release excess moisture, and strain the soaking liquid through cheesecloth or a finemesh sieve and reserve. Coarsely chop the softened mushrooms. 6. Heat the butter in a heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallot or onion and cook, stirring, until soft but not browned, about 2 minutes. Add the fresh mushrooms, season with salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms release their liquid and then begin to brown, about 7 minutes. Add the softened dried mushrooms and the wine or sherry, and bring to a quick simmer. Add the strained giblet broth and reserved mushroom soaking liquid and simmer vigorously over medium-high until reduced by about one-third, 15 to 20 minutes—it gets thickened later. (The gravy can be prepared to this point up to 2 days ahead; refrigerate and reheat before proceeding.) 7. Heat the oven to 450°F with an oven rack in the lower third. Scatter the chopped onion, carrot and celery in the bottom of a sturdy roasting pan and add 2 cups of water. Set a roasting rack in place, and place the turkey breast side up onto the rack. Slide the turkey into the oven, and after 10 minutes, lower the oven temperature to 350°F. Continue roasting until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the thigh registers 170°F, 21/4 to 23/4 hours. If you are toward the end of cooking and the breast or drumsticks are getting too dark, cover them loosely with foil. 8. Remove the turkey from the oven and transfer it to a carving board, preferably one with a trough to catch any juices, and let it rest for 20 to 30 minutes. If desired, strain the roasting pan drippings, discarding the vegetables (or save them for a cook’s snack), and spoon off the excess fat. Reserve the drippings to add to the gravy. 9. Finish the gravy: Bring the gravy to a simmer over mediumlow heat. If using drippings, add to taste (if the drippings are very concentrated, only add a small amount). In a small bowl, mix the cornstarch with 1/4 cup cool water. Stir the cornstarch mixture a little at a time into the gravy until thickened to your liking (you may not need it all). Season to taste with salt and pepper. 10. Carve the turkey and serve with gravy spooned over top. Cook’s Note: Dried mushrooms often come in 1-ounce packages, and you’ll use 1/2 ounce for the spice rub and the other half for the gravy. Don’t worry about dividing the package exactly in half. For best flavor, look for dried porcini, shiitake or a blend.

SPICE-RUBBED TURKEY WITH MUSHROOM GRAVY

ROASTED SALMON WITH BROWN SUGAR-MUSTARD GLAZE

Roasted Salmon with Brown Sugar-Mustard Glaze MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

A side of salmon makes a sumptuous centerpiece for a memorable dinner, especially when glazed with a spicysweet sauce and roasted until golden brown. If you want to get ahead, marinate the salmon in the sauce for up to 4 hours before roasting.

1/2 cup whole-milk or low-fat plain yogurt 3 tablespoons light or dark brown sugar 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon mayonnaise or sour cream 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill or tarragon, plus more to garnish salt and freshly ground black pepper 3 pounds salmon fillet (See Cook’s Note)

1. Heat the oven to 450°F with an oven rack near the center. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil. 2. In a small bowl, combine the yogurt, brown sugar, mustard, olive oil, mayonnaise or sour cream, ginger, dill or tarragon, and salt and black pepper to taste. 3. Arrange the salmon on the baking sheet and season the surface with salt and pepper. Spoon a few tablespoons of the sauce onto the fish, spreading to cover the surface. Reserve the remaining sauce for serving. (The seasoned salmon can be refrigerated for up to 4 hours before roasting.) 4. Roast until the salmon is golden and cooked through, 15 to 18 minutes. Transfer to a serving platter. Garnish with fresh dill and serve with the remaining sauce. Cook’s Note: For best results, shop for salmon fillets that are at least 11/2 inches thick. This may mean buying a whole side of salmon, a partial fillet, or 2 to 3 center cut fillets. Once home, run your finger down the fish to make sure there are no pin bones (the hair-like bones that run down the center of each fillet). If needed, remove the pin bones by grabbing with your thumb and the side of a paring knife and tugging. 

GLAZED HAM

A glazed ham makes any occasion feel like a celebration. Choose a fully cooked half or whole ham depending on how many you’re feeding. (Whether boneless or bone-in, a half ham provides 8 to 10 servings and a whole ham provides twice that—allowing for leftovers in both cases.) Unwrap the ham and trim the fat to about 1/4-inch thick and then score the surface in a crisscross pattern. Heat the oven to 325°F and line a roasting pan with foil. Place the ham in the pan, and roast until an instant-read thermometer registers about 130°F, about 18 minutes per pound. Remove the ham from the oven and increase the oven temperature to 425°F. Brush the surface with one of the following glaze suggestions (or one of your own creation), and return the ham to the oven, spooning the pan juices (and melted glaze) over the surface every 5 minutes until browned and glossy, about 20 minutes total (the internal temperature should be 140°F). Let the ham rest for 20 minutes before carving into thin slices. Glaze Ideas: The simplest way to glaze a ham is to sprinkle the surface with brown or granulated sugar (you’ll need about 1 cup for a whole ham, ½ cup for a half ham). You can also enhance the glaze by combining the sugar with mustard (Dijon or whole grain) and/or canned chopped pineapple with its syrup. A dash of vinegar or lemon juice helps cut the sweetness. Another great idea is to use preserves in place of sugar (orange marmalade and apricot jam are two favorites) and a splash of bourbon or rum in place of the vinegar.

RIB ROAST W. HORSERADISH CREAM SAUCE:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 493; FAT 34g (sat. 15g); CHOL 152mg; SODIUM 525mg; CARB 3g; FIBER 1g; ADDED SUGARS 0g; PROTEIN 43g

LEMON-THYME TURKEY BREAST ROASTED W. APPLES & ONIONS:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 586; FAT 27 (sat. 10g); CHOL 201mg; SODIUM 221mg; CARB 18g; FIBER 3g; ADDED SUGARS 0g; PROTEIN 67g

DRIED FRUIT & NUT STUFFED PORK TENDERLOIN:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 388; FAT 19g (sat. 5g); CHOL 112mg; SODIUM 222mg; CARB 15g; FIBER 2g; ADDED SUGARS 3g; PROTEIN 40g

SPICE-RUBBED TURKEY W. MUSHROOM GRAVY:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 386; FAT 16g (sat. 5g); CHOL 157mg; SODIUM 967mg; CARB 8g; FIBER 1g; ADDED SUGARS 0g; PROTEIN 52g

ROASTED SALMON W. BROWN SUGAR-MUSTARD GLAZE:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 307; FAT 16g (sat. 4g); CHOL 89mg; SODIUM 169mg; CARB 4g; FIBER 0g; ADDED SUGARS 3g; PROTEIN 34g