Lunds & Byerlys REAL FOOD Spring 2022

Page 58

pairings

Vive la Différence Alter course and find fresh white wine options from Argentina, Spain and Portugal BY MARY SUBIALK A

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glass of your favorite white wine can always hit the spot, but if you want to uncork a little something different, try Argentina’s signature white, Torrontés, Albariño from Spain, or Portugal’s Vinho Verde. Torrontés (“tor-ron-TESS”) is produced in Argentina’s preeminent wine region of Mendoza, in the La Rioja province, and from high in the foothills of the Andes in the Salta province. It’s generally lighter in style than Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc and is floral and fruity with flavors often described as peach and apricot with a touch of citrus, yet it’s still quite dry with a smooth texture and mouthfeel. It’s usually made without oak aging and best consumed within a year or so after its release. Albariño (“alba-REEN-yo”) is a medium-bodied white wine that hails from the Iberian Peninsula—from Rías Baixas in Galicia, Spain, and Vinho Verde in Portugal, where it’s called Alvarinho. This refreshing coastal wine with a crisp acidity is known for rich stone fruit flavors (think nectarine) as well as lemon, honeydew and grapefruit and a hint of salinity. You’ll see the word “Albariño” on Spanish labels unlike other areas that label by region. Vinho Verde literally means “green wine,” but the term refers to its fresh and fruity youthfulness. Hailing from the Minho region of northwestern Portugal, most Vinho Verde is a blend of various local grapes, most often the Alvarinho previously mentioned, Loureiro and Trajadura. This blend produces wine that can be rich with acidity and is often described as having complex flavors of apricots, peaches and citrus. It has a slight fizz yet is not classified as a sparkling wine. The best are dry but some are also made in a sweet style. Vinho Verde is also meant to be enjoyed within a year or so of bottling. A quality seal on the back of every bottle includes a serial number and date, which indicates the year it was bottled. In fact, if you want to learn more about your wine, you can enter the information under “bottle history” on the Vinho Verde Viticultural Commission’s website: vinhoverde.pt. These wines are perfect partners with seafood. Sip alongside any kind of shellfish—crab, lobster, mussels, oysters, scallops or shrimp—or white fish, including in fish tacos. Citrus fruit harmonizes with the wines, so a squeeze of lemon atop that fish would make a great match even better. Pair with Asian food and chicken or spicy dishes, as well as grilled vegetables and a caprese or Caesar salad. Serve before meals as an apéritif and with appetizers from cold cuts to goat cheese. Soft cheeses like burrata, or semi-hard cheeses such as Manchego, Gouda and salty feta will be great alongside these fresh and bright wines. n PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN  FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

56  real food  spring 2022


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