luri & wilma A smart magazine for smart ladies!
Be Smart, Be You ...a fashion issue.
Print Edition #3
Amazing ladies chat about fashion, body image & smart lady things, all dressed in vintage.
Independently published & printed on recycled paper, in the USA.
DIYs + green things in fashion & lifestyle + go-to weeknight dinner recipes + smart lady features.
the green team Charlie Heck Editor-in-Chief & Design charlie@luriandwilma.com
Roy Moody Director of Photography moody@studiomoody.com Beth Eller Marketing Coordinator BethE@luriandwilma.com Julie Smolinski Production Coordinator julie@luriandwilma.com
Beth Barrett Fashion Editor & Stylist beth@luriandwilma.com
General Inquiries info@luriandwilma.com
Advertising Inquiries advertise@luriandwilma.com
Mandy Pellegrin Fallon Keplinger Citlalli Sanchez Adelle Gresock Amber Paranick Megan Paranick Audrey Grygiel Victoria Shubert Bruna Siloto Blair Larkins Raessa Belnavis Shamael Al-Rizaiqi Alice Demurtas Sekayi Fernandes Sofai Hassani Siddisse Negero
DIY Editor DIY Contributor DIY Contributor DIY Contributor Smart girl reads, Contributor Food Contributor Food Contributor Hair & Makeup Artist Design Intern Editorial Assistant Fashion Sketches Editorial Intern Editorial Intern Editorial Intern Editorial Intern Editorial Intern
Much love & gratitude to this issue’s contributors... Tolga Erbatur, chef. Liz Eggleston, food blogger. Isaiah Headen, Les Joueurs Photography. Dafna Steinberg, stylist & photo shoot coordinator. Lish Ephraim, shoot coordinator.
Be Smart, Be You fall 2013
Contents 4 6 8 9 10 11 14 16 18 20 23 24 48 50 52 54
Editor’s letter Editors’ picks for fall Smart girl reads A little history lesson on denim A brief history on Queen Magazine Sustain-a-biz: Two Birds Apparel Girl on the Up: Chantal Hailey A chat with Lauren Talley World Girl: Sammy Davis Fair Trade Fashion See it. Want it. Snag it. FASHION Be Smart, Be You Trends: white on white Trends: print on print Trends; the boots are back Fresh off the runway: sketches
62 60 62 64
SEE & DO Flat iron station Fabric headband Beaded button up How to make a jacket water resistant
68 70 72 74 75
FOOD Heirloon tomato & beet gazpacho Fresh farm pizza Chicken carbonnade & dill potatoes A guide to fall fruits & veggies 1 ingredient / 3 ways
“O
ver the years I have learned that what is important in a dress is the woman who is wearing it.”
-Yves Saint-Laurent
Editor’s letter:
“Oh, never mind the fashion. When one has a style of one’s own, it is always 20 times better.” -Margaret Oliphant
Yes, this issue is a fashion issue. But, this issue is not a “traditional” fashion issue. Unfortunately, too often, magazines use editorials to tell the modern women how to dress. While we know a great deal about fashion, eco-friendly designers, vintage goodies and mainstream trends, we never want to tell you how to dress. We are also busting our asses to manage a social life, our “9-5” job and our hobby we wish was our “9-5.” Hell yeah, I can pull it all out for an event but let’s be real, a vintage dress, slouchy cardi & flats are my getting-shit-done-uniform. On a personal level, I cannot dress the way high fashion editorials encourage my late-twenty-something self to dress. I’m what the fashion industry would consider “plus-sized.” My body image is something, until my 25th birthday, I struggled with. I was a competitive athlete from the age of 11 till freshman year of college. So much so that when I left for my freshman year and returned home, I gained a bit of weight and developed a figure. I got breasts, and big ones too! My former high school friends were convinced I had gone away to study and got a breast enhancement too. Nope, I just stopped working out 3-hours a day, 5 times a week. I also ate real meals with some carbs! I struggled for a very long time, yo-yo-dieting was common and I felt very awkward in my “new” adult body. But these past couple of years have brought about a love for my curves and stretch marks. Don’t get me wrong, I still believe in exercise and a well-balanced, healthy diet, I’m a yoga lover and I walk everywhere I go (gotta love metro/mass transit city living!). But, I don’t count every calorie and don’t push my body harder than it needs to go.
-Charlie
This issue is dedicated to all the smart ladies of all shapes and sizes who rock what they got and look amazing doing so! I was honored to have worked on the huge fashion spread Be Smart, Be You with two amazing ladies - Dafna & Lish. I’ll let Dafna take it from here…
The theme for this issue came out of a conversation about the representation of different body types in fashion. It started with an article written by a well-known fashion blog that was supposedly giving fashion “tips” to plus size women. The article was lackluster. It had no images and the tips were not exactly the most helpful. Charlie reached out to me and asked me if I would be interested in styling the “Be Smart, Be You” editorial. Who could pass up such an amazing opportunity? And boy, has it been amazing! The women we worked with are all incredible, and finding the clothes to create the looks was some of the most fun I ever had. Part of working in fashion and being a larger size is that I aim to help women of all shapes find clothes that make them feel amazing. Because every woman deserves to feel good in the clothes she wears. 4 Editor’s letter
From left to right: Dafna Steinberg, owner of I Found That Vintage, Charlie Heck, editor-in-chief of luri & wilma and Lish Ephraim. owner of Mimilah. Photographed by Studio Moody.
Keep me warm Classically clad
Tight livin’
Flower power
Charlie’s fall essentials:
Tight livin’: These Ombré Dyed Tights in Mermaid are hand dyed, one by one, in the artist’s Seattle studio! www.etsy.com/shop/BZRshop Classically clad: Handmade in Peru by local artisans under a trade not aid philosophy. www.kaightshop.com Keep me warm: This Eco-Fleece sweatshirt has an off-the-shoulder neckline and kangaroo-style front pocket. www.alternativeapparel.com Flower Power: Made by Creative Handicrafts in Mumbai, India from 100 percent organic cotton. Creative Handicrafts is a social enterprise working to empower disadvantaged women in Mumbai. www.peopletree.co.uk Chevron me up: Geometric lines of the very popular chevron pattern reinterpreted in a striking bracelet. Recycled 14k gold over recycled brass, handcrafted in the US. www.ecolustre.com
Chevron me up! 6 Editor’s picks
editor’s picks EcoShag
Make me glow!
Send me a Letter Bag
Julie’s fall essentials:
Make me glow: Glow-in-the-dark solar system leggings. Give them a bit of light and then find someplace nice and dark. www.makeitgood.com
I wanna hold your hand
EcoShag: shades of ochre and gray make up this super swell infinity scarf. www.etsy.com/shop/EcoShag I wanna hold your hand: This two hands necklace is seen in many ways: a Batman mask, the symbol of home in yoga, the sign for interpreter in sign language and much more! The artist drew these hands after the shadow of her own. www.virginiemillefiori.com
Keep me comfy
Send me a Letter Bag: The Letter Bag has been built for carrying correspondence of all sorts including laptops, tablets (digital and analog), smart phones and more. Moop bags are made, start to finish, in their Pittsburgh studio. www.moopshop.com
Keep me comfy: The Emma Herringbone dress is made out of organic cotton herringbone. www.amourvert.com Be Smart, Be You | print issue #3 | luri & wilma
Amber Paranick
Be Smart, Be You, and some other swell reading material in this edition of smart girl reads. by Amber Paranick handbook of style: expert fashion & beauty advice. AS TOLD TO FRANCINE MAROUKIAN, SARAH WOODRUFF How do I tie a scarf like a French woman? How do I apply eyeliner without looking like a raccoon? To answer these burning questions and more, these ladies went directly to the source (not to the interwebs). Containing advice from experts like Mireille Guilano of Clicquot Inc to Jeanine Lobell of Stila Cosmetic; this little book hands it to you straight (YouTube account not required). a guide to elegance: for every woman who wants to be well and properly dressed on all occasions. BY MADAME GENEVIEVE ANTOINE DARIAUX. Read like an encyclopedia with entries from accessories to zoology (and literally everything in between), this reference book (the original What Not to Wear), gives its readers advice on elegance as it relates to fashion; the preeminent French woman’s specialty.
the man repeller: seeking love, finding overalls. BY LEANDRA MEDINE. Hilarious & brilliant advice from the famous blogger behind the The Man Repeller on embracing your personal aesthetic and wearing what you want, without giving a damn about what anyone else thinks. wacky chicks. BY SIMON DOONAN. Always the advocate for developing a personal style profile, fashion guru and true industry insider, Simon Doonan, provides essays on some fabulously wacky women that have shaped fashion (in the vein of the oft-remarked “well-behaved women rarely make history”) and inspires us to embrace our inner wacky-self. how to live like a lady: lessons in life, manners, & style. BY SARAH TOMCZAK. Simply put, a guide for us smart, stylish ladies on how to build self-confidence that reads like a letter written by your favorite aunt.
A Little History Lesson:
smart girl reads
Jeans: the first 125 years.
denim, n. The Oxford English dictionary defines jeans as the name originally given to a kind of serge; now (orig. U.S.) to a colored twilled cotton material used largely for overalls, hangings, etc. In pl. = overalls, trousers made of denim. But we know them as so much more. From cowgirls to haute couture, jeans have been donned by smart ladies of all ages, races, shapes and sizes in the form of the bell-bottom, the cutoff, the wide-leg and every style in between. Unisex and classless, jeans serve as the common denominator. Research has shown that people wear jeans longer than almost any other garment, even when worn and frayed. With an item as durable as the jean, it has a long history as well. Read on for a short history of the famous pantaloons. As you might have guessed, the history of denim can be traced back to Levi Strauss, born Loeb Strauss in Bavaria. In 1853, the entrepreneur, hones his astute business sense and teams up with tailor Jacob Davis. Together, they took out a patent to create a waist overall pant suitable for the tough work of gold miners. The famous copper riveted overall pant (nicknamed the ‘501’) is manufactured out of serge de Nimes, the French word for the twill manufactured in southern France that we now know as denim. The pants eventually got the nickname “jeans” from the city of Genoa, Italy, where sailors wore blue cotton canvas. 1920: Henry David Lee, another name long attributed to jeanswear, introduced the first zipper fly. The roaring 20’s, jeans were typically reserved for western work wear, and it was film stars like John Wayne who popularized the highly sought after look. But you had to travel west of the Mississippi to get them. By the 1930’s, denim was de rigueur casual wear and mass-produced by manufacturers. In the mid-20th century, distressed and worn jeans were considered on trend as jeans faded by the sun were worn by those with lots of leisure time. During World War II, the US government issued the overalls for soldiers and it was well-known US fashion designer, Claire McCardell, who brought denim to the female crowd (when this was the only fabric available during wartime shortages); thus revolutionizing the way women wear denim today.
Jeans (as they were now known), had reached the league of official status symbols by the 1950’s. But, jeans took on a negative connotation as they were donned by juvenile delinquents like badboys, bikers, and rebels and banned by school administrators, deeming them inappropriate for school. Some say we can blame this on actor James Dean and his infamous lean. In the 1960’s, wearers took a DIY approach to denim and beaded & appliquéd them. And then came the era of the designer jean in the late 1970s/early 1980’s. In the 1ate 1980s, the pants went through something of an identity crisis. Thankfully, by the mid-1990’s, jeans came back in their pure American form. In the latter part of the twentieth century, denim paved way for innovative designers to use the material in garmet construction, from jackets to suits to accessories to everything in between and in the year 1998, LS&Co. celebrates 125 years of the riveted overall, we now refer to as jeans. Image Credits: Levi & Strauss & Co. advertisement from the September 19, 1903 issue of the Coconino sun, Flagstaff, Arizona. Courtesy of the Library of Congress Chronicling America database.
Be Smart, Be You | print issue #3 | luri & wilma
Fit for a queen:
a brief history on Queen Magazine by Amber Paranick We know the magazine as Harper’s Bazaar, but did you know that this glossy magazine gets its roots in mid19th century Britain? In the year 1861, publisher Samuel Beeton takes the British world of women’s magazines by storm and introduces Queen, the Ladies Journal and Court Circular. As you might have guessed, the title was sanctioned by Queen Victoria; she herself served as prime editor. Beeton was unabashedly against the inclusion of any records of foreign affairs or politics and instead filled the publication with matters of the home, high fashion and high society. It was considered to be the Golden Age of society and the magazine was over-the-top snobbish.
The Queen, as well as other ladies magazines of the time, drew their attention to the proliferation of single women. It was also during this time, the era of silent films was coming to an end. A look through the pages during the 1930’s, you’d find no indication that the world was suffering from a Great Depression or that Mrs. Wallis Simpson had stolen the heart of Prince Edward. The focus of women’s magazines was largely on domestic issues during the mid-twentieth century after WWII and to fit in with rival competitors, the upper-class magazine ran the series: “The Home Today.”
The Queen was purchased in 1957 by Jocelyn Stevens. Under his supervision, the publication dropped During the early twentieth century, the its initial title and thus changed from world was dealing with the aftermath of a conventional society journal to a the Great War and society was changing viable competitor of other British drastically. The middle class was on the glossies like: Nova, Vogue, & Harper’s. rise.
Queen was finally at the helm of the world of British women’s magazines in the 1960s and soon, all famous shutterbugs wanted their photos to appear between the pages that mirrored the swinging decade. Readers flocked to the magazine stand to pick up the latest issue in order to be in-the-know of what was happening in society (and to delight over images of The Beatles & Mary Quant). The times they were a-changin’ in the 1970s and the publication took no exception to this. After a successful 109 years, the October 1970 issue was the last issue published as Queen and in November 1970, the monthly title officially merged with rival magazine, Harper’s Bazaar to become Harpers Queen and then changed at the last moment to: Harpers & Queen. The final issue carried the editorial note: This is not the end. Not even the beginning of the end, but merely the end of the beginning. Today, the monthly publication remains original, never straying from its original intent to publish feature articles for the smart woman interested in the happenings of the world, fashion, and popular culture.
Image credit: Library of Congress General Collections. 10 A brief history on Queen Magazine
TWO BIRDS
Sustain-a-biz APPAREL
by Shamael Al-Rizaiqi
Sustain-a-biz Two Birds Apparel
ATTENTION! Calling out all the ecoconscious fashion ladies & gents! We can all agree that wearing anything ecofriendly is the way to go nowadays, and we may just have the perfect casual fashion brand for you. Co-founders Daniel and Tiffany Andrew launched Two Birds Apparel this past May and we are smitten. Both Tiffany and Daniel live on the greener side of life and Two Birds Apparel was created as a result of their desire to embrace a venture that they would mutually stand behind. “Both of us are interested in fashion, obviously or we wouldn’t have started the fashion line. But we are also quite passionate about the environment” says Daniel, who worked as a sustainable consultant while Tiffany worked as an environmentalist. “The inspiration for the name came when we were visiting family in Muskoka - a beautiful part of Ontario, Canada, where we were enjoying some time in a forest setting. The concept comes from the saying ‘kill two birds with one stone’ (which is kind of ironic since we are both vegan). 12 Sustain-a-biz | Two Birds Apparel
Where we are making decisions to create environmentally conscious fashion fashion and the environment are the two birds. Our logo design captures the minimalist, timeless, yet modern aesthetic we are trying to achieve with our designs and accessories,” says Daniel.
But the biggest obstacle is actually sourcing their materials within Canada. “We are limited in terms of not only how many knitting mills we have but also the availability of eco fabrics. I think that has been our biggest challenge because we have visions of garments we want to create but we come to these halts Now lets get down to the foundation of because all of a sudden in production, their business. How is Two Birds Apwe just cant get the fabric made or the parel eco-friendly? According to Daniel, timeline,” says Tiffany. they’ve tried to keep some aspects as local as possible, keeping the manufac- Although taking the step towards being a turing portion within a 100 km radius fully integrated eco-friendly brand, there (that’s a little over 60 miles). Since are some difficulties. Daniel identifies production is so close, the Two Birds one of them as educating people; not team is able to visit the knitting mills, the everyone necessarily understands why dye and manufacturing houses – all for it’s important to support brands that the sake of ensuring they create the ideal consider the impacts of their practices. merchandise. All the fabrics used are custom knit from bamboo and cotton and soon from 100 percent certified cotton and tensile, which is composed of wood pulp. “We source them in Canada, but the different materials are coming from different parts of the world. The organic cotton is coming mostly from India and the states (US) while the bamboo from
Two Birds Recycling Program “We do a lot of research and waste was a big subject we wanted to address in the company. We thought what’s going to happen to the clothes when people are done with them? That thought was really the spark to creating the program,” says Tiffany.
let’s get social, darling!
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Instead of discarding your Two Birds apparel, send it back to them. They’ll cover the mailing costs and give you 10 percent off your next purchase. They haven’t received any recycled Two Birds goodies, but when they do, Tiffany and Dave will either donate it to certain charities or salvage the materials by making quilts or children’s clothing. “It’s kind of our focus on the end of product life,” says Daniel. Already in love with the company, right? This may lure you in a little more; 1 percent of all sales are donated to the David Suzuki Foundation, an organization that works with government, business and individuals to conserve the environment. The brand is taking a different initiative this fall by only selling men’s wear. “Initially we had planned on doing menswear. But we wanted to open up the floor and see and kind of experiment with what was needed in the market and a lot of the response was men saying hey this is great, I’m looking for this, this and this and I can’t find anything for sustainable eco wear. The more we heard that the more we realized that this is probably the best way for our company to go is to,” says Tiffany. A sustain-a-biz on the rise, Two Birds Apparel is a brand you should look into. And ladies, before they become a men’s wear only line, check out their lovely tanks and dresses. And bookmark them for that future sustainable guy holiday gift.
Shop Two Birds @ www.twobirdsapparel.com
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COMING IN NOVEMBER... a very green
holiday
The smart lady’s guide to responsible gift giving. We’ll have our picks for holiday gifts, some you can make & boozy winter beverages + smart lady features & food. Subscribe online @ www.luriandwilma.com.
Girl
on the up!
copy & photography by Charlie Heck
Chantal Hailey
Three sewing machines are set up on a table in a lovely recreational room, located inside a low-income apartment complex in Southeast Washington, DC. They’ve got a small pressing table, bins of fabrics and sewing supplies and a table set with colorful Kente fabric (colorful West African woven textile strips sewn together to create cloth). The door swings open and a little face appears. It’s Derkeya Teeter and she wants to know when her sewing class starts, “Are we going to actually sew on our dresses today?” she asks her teacher Chantal Hailey. “It’s 5:30 Derekya, you know we start at 6,” says Chantal. “And yes, we’ll be sewing our dresses today.” You can certainly tell Derekya is ready to get behind that machine. By about 5 till 6pm, the other 2 girls attending the class today trickle into the rec room ready to work. But first, dinnertime and a bit of history on the Kente fabric. Chantal is the impressive seamstress, founder and main lady behind Comforting the City, a service-learning program aimed at teaching girls the art of sewing. Not just any sewing class, this program is free of charge. The girls are currently learning the basics of hand and machine sewing by creating dresses for orphans in Nkwanta, Ghana. “Our mission is to really teach girls the art of sewing but also within that, to really have them learn that whatever skill you have, you can use that to help benefit both your local and global community,” said Chantal. 14 Girl on the Up | Chantal Hailey
The sewing bug bit her at the ripe ol’ age of 7. Her great-grandmother was a seamstress, she constructed wedding dresses. She passed that onto Chantal’s mother who then passed it onto Chantal. She made dresses for her dolls and starting in the sixth grade, every year she had a sewing class in school. By her junior year of high school she was introduced to tailoring. “I am a very shapely woman and petite; because my mother knew how to sew, she always had to alter my clothes. It got to a point where one day she said, ‘you know what? I think you’ve learned enough basic skills to where we can work with this a little bit and you can do alterations.’ She really showed me how to alter my clothes, and when I got to college, I started to do alterations for people in my dorm room. My senior year at Howard University, I had a bit of free time so I took my first formal sewing class,” said Chantal. Although her sewing days date back to her pre-teens, she took her first official sewing class in college but wasn’t really interested in fashion design. By day she works at the Urban Institute. A globally recognized company, on their website, it states their mission is to gather data, conduct research, evaluate programs, offer technical assistance overseas, and educate Americans on social and economic issues — to foster sound public policy and effective government. “I do have a ‘day job.’ I am a research associate and the work I do looks at kids who live in affordable and also public housing. All of my projects are researched based, whether it’s surveys, taking to kids, talking to their parents, and really looking at how housing policies and education policies play into their lives and how those policies can be made better,” she said.
Comforting the City was inspired from one of her college classes. She came up with the concept in her technical writing class where she had to create a proposal for something she wanted to do. “I thought, I have this really crazy idea, I’m just going to write it down and that’s just going to be my proposal for technical writing. As I started developing it, I really realized how passionate I was about showing girls a skill that other women had shown me, and kind of infusing that with my own personal desires about doing community service. Serving the community, that plays into my sociology background and the work that I do for my 9-5,” she said. That was in 2010 and at that point it was just an idea. With encouragement from her family, friends and coworkers, last year she put the proposal into action.
Students Derekya Tetter, Chantal Whitley and La’Tia Taylor.
“Last year I had a blood clot and I’m fine, but at that point I realized my mortality and I realized that there was no point of me putting off the dreams , desires, all of the things in my heart that I was really passionate about. That was April of 2012 and I just started developing the idea of Comforting the City,” she said. The class was originally intended for girls between the ages of 12 and 18. During their first recruitment event, younger girls showes an interest. Chantal’s students are between the ages of 8 and 12. “I kind of shifted the program and curriculum a little to tailor to their needs, their skill sets, and what they can pick up on,” she said. There is a set 12-week curriculum and Chantal plans to start 2014 with a new batch Comforting the City is completely funded through donations. To make a of students. donation, donate supplies or learn more about the program, visit their Facebook page, www.facebook.com/ComfortingTheCity. “In five years, I would love for this to be a class in multiple communities. I would like to have not only me teaching, but many people who are also passionate about sewing and kids and community service, teaching classes about 3-4 times a week in different communities,” said Chantal.
Amber Paranick
SEW LOVELY:
A Chat with Lauren Talley. Washington, DC seamstress and multimedia journalist Lauren Tailey made a resolution in January – no new clothing in 2013. We chatted with Lauren, over sewing books and cookies, to find out how she managed the year and her plans for 2014. “The ethical clothing standards really pushed me to think twice about how and why I was purchasing clothing. I realized I was spending a lot of money on clothing that I didn’t necessarily need,” she says. Even though she’s not buying clothing, she’s actually acquired a lot of donations over the past eight months. After her co-workers (she works full-time in public television, by the way) caught wind of her project, they offered her bags of clothing they were looking to donate. Friends will periodically hold clothing swaps, where attendees will bring unwanted items and swap them for someone else’s. Lauren’s also been given two dresses as gifts over the course of the year. The first was made by a New York designer and purchased by her parents at the As I got older, I made my own prom dress using difficult fabrics like Ann Arbor Street Art Fair. The second dress was a organza and tulle. I’d say, that’s the item I’m most proud of,” says souvenir from her boyfriend’s recent trip to China. Lauren. So far, she hasn’t felt the intense need to purchase anything. But, on a recent visit to the UT Austin campus, however, she attended a football game with her boyfriend and found herself without any memorabilia to wear. In the past, she explains, “I would have just purchased a burnt-orange shirt and not thought twice. That would have been an impulse buy. I don’t really need the shirt: I don’t attend school there, nor do I really like the color on me, “ she says. She ended up wearing one of his.
Sewing blogs are her go-tos for inspiration these days and her picks include: Coletterie, Tilly & the Buttons, LLadybird, & A Stitching Odyssey. “My style right now is in flux. Since I don’t go into stores, I don’t really follow trends. I wear pieces that friends have given me but that doesn’t necessarily mean that they are items I’d purchase for myself,” says Lauren. “A lot of the DIY designers I follow have created their own designs and have carefully constructed their own signature wardrobes: full of pieces that adhere to their personal aesthetic.”
The New Year is just a couple of months away and Lauren says she hasn’t quite decided what 2014 will hold, resolution wise. But, she’ll probably not run out to the stores she used to frequent postclothing-diet. She may consider changing her parameters a bit, most likely to include the purchase of one of the more difficult items to Taught by her mother and her grandmother, she first learned to sew at the age of 5. Her grandmother, shop for: jeans. in fact, made and sold costumes for ice skaters. “When I was in high school, a friend’s stepmother, “I can repair them, but it’s hard to repair jeans without them looking a bona fide seamstress, showed me how to construct just a bit off. So, yeah, I think I’ll still have to make an exception for jeans,” she says with a laugh. a relatively simple skirt using a Vogue pattern. I’ve since moved on to other projects, but this is one of my favorite projects to work on --- I practically know She’s certainly inspired us to take a look at our closets and pickup that the pattern by heart. sewing machine! While her diet says she cannot buy new clothing, her rulebook says she’s free to make any garment herself.
16 Sew Lovely | A Chat with Lauren Talley
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Julie Smolinski
Sammy Davis works in the vintage clothing industry, but it’s hard to describe exactly what she does. And really, it’s because she does a little bit of everything. She’s a writer, a stylist, a fashion historian, a consultant for vintage vendors and, of course, an avid vintage hunter.
Her expertise has earned her gigs with outlets like The Huffington Post and My Fox NY, and she recently published her first e-book, The 100 Best Vintage Shops Online.
Based out of New York City, Davis operates Sammy Davis Vintage, a website and media entity that includes regular blogs posts, videos and pretty much everything you need to know about sourcing, selling and wearing vintage. Not sure how old that dress is that you thrifted? Need styling tips for that oh-so80s blazer? Or maybe you’d like to learn about trends in the 30s? Sammy Davis Vintage has got you covered.
“When someone wears vintage, they are spreading #vintagelove because they are showing the world who they are through fashion… Vintage lovers enjoy nothing more than promoting and connecting over their finds which creates “#vintagelove” between them - even if they were strangers before finding common ground..”
But don’t be fooled. Davis’ work is much more than blog posts and adorable dresses. It’s also about spreading But no matter what hat she’s wearing, Davis’ work boils down “vintage love,” a term Davis coined to refer to the way to a simple goal: to educate others on the joys of vintage and clothing makes us feel and the bonds we form when we exmake vintage clothing accessible to all women. press ourselves through personal style.
In other words vintage isn’t about looking pretty so much as Though Davis has been a vintage lover since high school, she it is about building relationships and being comfortable with got her professional start selling vintage clothing out of the ourselves. trunk of her car at flea markets and private parties. Her drive and passion led to the development of her website. Davis’ has been emphasizing the latter through her most recent campaign, Lipstick Affirmations. “I was a girl with a mission to influence contemporary women to turn to vintage for creative styling that empowered themThe campaign is simple. Everyday, Davis posts a video where selves within,” she says. she shares a positive statement with her followers. She writes it down and seals it with a kiss. Davis hopes that by sharing Since then, Davis has become one of the most prominent optimism and empowerment she can motivate viewers to feel resources for vintage. their best, and in turn, allow them to do the same for others. 18 World Girl | Sammy Davis
world girl The connection between vintage clothing and promoting self love may not be immediate for some, but for Davis it all comes back to vintage love. “Spreading #vintagelove is rooted in the belief that we can always support one another’s passions….We cannot help others if we can’t take care of ourselves first.” Feel good, wear fabulous clothing, help others feel good and wear fabulous clothing? No matter the decade, we have a feeling that these things will always be in style. To learn more about Sammy, visit her site www.sammydvintage.com.
Be Smart, Be You | print issue #3 | luri & wilma
Beth Eller
Every purchase matters!
A friend and I were walking through an antique shop the other day where we saw the usual items you might expect to find: fine china sets, overstuffed winged back chairs, small beaded hand bags, and a few Chanel button up blouses were amongst the treasures waiting to be rediscovered. But, as I ran my fingertips over a dusty, child-sized rocking chair, I realized that these items were not usual at all, they all had a history. How many family dinners had that set of china seen over the years, how many books were read or precious naps stolen in that winged backed chair, or how many baby dolls had been rocked by a child in that very rocker?
It’s not something most of us think about as we get dressed every morning. But, with recent fires in overseas plants resulting in large numbers of tragic deaths, many people have been forced to pay attention to how most of our imported clothing is made.
Just a few clicks on their website will connect you to their products and partners page. Companies like Good and Fair Clothing, HAE Now, and prAna are all companies certified with Fair Trade USA that sell clothing and accessories. Look for the Fair Trade Certified labels to be sure you are purchasing a quality product and helping those who Paying attention is one thing, actually being able to find responsibly produced make it. clothes is another and it can be a little overwhelming. A great place to begin is It’s a little extra work to find Fair with Fair Trade USA. Trade Certified products but worth it
According to fairtradeusa.org their certification program is “enabling consumers to consider the social, economic and environmental bottom line when shopLike all the pieces in the antique shop, ping for fashion.” Fair Trade apparel everything we own has a history. Even certification is a pioneer program that the new clothes we put on our backs directly benefits the farmers who grow have a story to tell about their inception, the cotton and the workers who conand some of their stories might not be struct the clothing. When consumers very pretty. It’s easy to think about buy garments that are Fair Trade being socially and environmentally Certified, they can be sure that they are responsible with things like recycling, doing something good for the repurposing or donating to your comenvironment and community in which munity. It’s a little bit harder, however, the clothing is made. This is because to know whether that little black dress the products are sustainably produced or favorite cotton tee was made in an and the farmers and manufactures are unsafe factory in Bangladesh by a minor guaranteed fair wages. or in a factory by a person of age, under laws guaranteeing safe working conditions, and fair wages.
22 Beth Eller | A Fair-Trade Guide
to know that what you are wearing is socially and environmentally responsible. Our clothes do have a story to tell. By purchasing Fair Trade Certified clothing you’re not only doing your part for the environment, you’re ensuring that your clothes articulate a tale of happy beginnings. Be sure to locate the labels below on any USA fair trade item. October is Fair Trade Month. Take the time to get to know where your products come from.
see it. want it. snag it
Ten Thousand Villages’ Fair Trade Scarves
Founded in 1946, Ten Thousand Villages’ has grown from the trunk of founder Edna Ruth Byler’s car to a network of more than 390 retail outlets throughout the US. Their mission - One day all artisans in the developing countries will earn a fair wage, be treated with dignity and respect and be able to live a life of quality.
Shop these & more fair trade accessories at www.tenthousandvillages.com
Be Smart, Be You | print issue #3 | luri & wilma
Be Smart, Amazing ladies chat about fashion, body image &
Be You!
Styled by Dafna Steinberg. Photographed by Studio Moody & Les Joueurs Photography. Copy & interviews by Charlie Heck.
smart lady things, all dressed in up in vintage duds. Be Smart, Be You | print issue #3 | luri & wilma
Be Smart, Be You an intro... by Blair Larkins It is both believable and unbelievable that in 2013, the fashion and retail industries still have issues with size.
Into the new millennium, thin became the only body type that designers designed for. This is also true for fast fashion retailers. Fast fashion is the term used to describe the rapid turnover of clothing designs from the runways to retailers. This system was designed to keep up with the ever changing trends of consumers, fast change equals fast money.
Retailers like Forever 21, Swedish founded store H&M, and Spanish bred store Zara, are among the most popular for fast Perhaps the initial idea of fashion is to promote a fantasy filled fashion. In terms of sizing, these retailers rely on “vanity sizwith 6-feet-tall women, in gorgeous clothes, weighing in at 110 ing,” sizes based on the bust measurement then scaled down pounds. But once the trends trickle down to the retailers, the to help build confidence in consumers. clothes’ sizes should become more body-type realistic or at least accurate. “Vanity sizing” doesn’t take into consideration, that though a woman may be considered a size “double zero” in Zara, she This information poses as the model for a good question: may actually be a size 2 and find it difficult to fit clothes at When will fashion designers and most retailers start designing other retailers. clothes for all body types? With the emergence of the fast fashion industry, their vanity sizing, and the lack-luster designs provided in plus-size fashion, real women from sizes double zero to zaftig (and everywhere in between) are finding crafty ways to dress for their unique figures, some even taking to vintage clothing. There was once a period in time when the female body served as inspiration for fashion designers, not the other way around. Many headlining designers catered to the evolving ideal female shape by creating garments that flattered every woman. Chanel, the iconic Parisian design house, built (in the beginning) its design aesthetic on creating straight line designs that both complimented and gave structure to every woman’s shape. Chanel’s designs revolutionized women’s bodies in the 1910’s, taking women from wearing corsets, to wearing garments that made them feel free and look polished, every size and shape. Fast forwarding to the 1940’s and 1950’s, Christian Dior’s “New Look” took the standard of the female body shape further by creating garments for the curvier woman. Celebrities like Marilyn Monroe wore Dior for its bustier bodices and forgiving hip structures. Later decades gave birth to the likes of Twiggy (1960’s), Farrah Fawcett (1970’s), and let’s not forget the decade of “the supermodel”, Christy, Linda, Naomi and Kate (the poster-child for the waif movement). These women inspired clothing trends like short mod dresses, and barely there outfits that popularized their thin body shapes.
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The art of fast fashion, sizing wise, deals with a standard size made for thinner women. A thin woman can have hipbones that stick out further than her torso and she may have breasts, so an “XS” may not fit her. A woman can be curvy on her latter half but have a thinner upper body (some may consider her “mid-size”) so plus-size fashions are not for her. In the case of plus-size women, they too have difficult sizing issues in fast fashion. In his interview with The Huffington Post, former Parsons The New School for Design Faculty member, Tim Gunn expressed his views on sizing standards in retail. “When I’m working in the real world with real women and we’re shopping, we find that fashion seems to end when you get any larger than a size 12. How ridiculous is that?” said Gunn. Dealing with the lack of options for every body type, many female consumers are playing it smart when it comes to finding clothes that not only speak to their personal style but their unique body shapes. Shopping vintage and thrift stores have become new ways for women to not only find stylish clothes but clothing from a period where their body type was the norm. So until the day that the fashion and retail industries embrace the body types of all women, the best advice to give about shopping these days, is to “Be Smart” about your size and the options available, and to “Be You” because style knows no size!
Kamaria Salau
Marketing manager/bad ass
Kamaria is a marketing manager and is re-launching her indie hip-hop blog crabzinabarrel.com this fall. Her “day job” puts her in the hot seat for a firm in the DC-area. She oversees all the marketing, publicity, graphic design, events and social media. She’s also the manager and publicist for a group of artists out of St. Louis called Collective Failure. These kids do it all! They paint, write, produce, sing, and rap. They’re not you’re typical hip-hop artists. Needless to say she is always on the go-go!
_____________________________________ l&w: Describe you personal style.
Kamaria Salau is wearing a vintage “watercolor” blouse from I Found That Vintage, sold at Blues Hard Goods. Vintage gold Asian medallion necklace, beveled gold slide necklace and gold earrings by Mimilah. Mimilah.com for more information. Photographed by Studio Moody at The Coffee Bar in Washington, DC.
I can take a basic black dress and completely jazz it up with thrift store finds. DC is also great for vintage and consignment shopping, so I take full advantage of that as well. I also graciously accept hand-me-downs from my mother, who has impeccable taste. l&w: How do you dress for your body type? Kamaria: For every body type, I think women should pick their favorite assets and flaunt them! I love my big legs so I wear a lot of dresses, skirts, and shorts. One tip is, invest in nice undergarments. Get sized for a good bra and buy some silky panties. Having yourself together under your clothes, makes you feel more confident in them!
Kamaria: I’m prissy with an edge. I consider my self an “urban socialite”; downtown meets uptown. I might have on a thrifted outfit but I’m carrying a Marc Jacobs bag. Or might have on a fancy dress but I’m rocking decade old boots or sandals.
l&w: There are many “buzz words” when describing different body shapes in the media, from “pin thin” to “curvy” to “voluptuous,” What are some “buzz words” that you love that describe your body type? Any that you hate?
l&w: As a lady on the go, where do you shop for clothing that reflects your style?
Kamaria: I love the words curvy and voluptuous! I think those really capture who I am. But you can call me fat and I don’t mind at all. I promise you, I’m the baddest fat chick you’ve ever met!
Kamaria: I buy most of my basics at places like Zara or H&M. The only problem is that if a large or a 12 doesn’t work for me at H&M or Zara, I’m pretty much screwed. I consider myself a professional thrift store shopper. Be Smart, Be You | print issue #3 | luri & wilma
Charlie Heck
Alicia Sanchez-Gill Rebel rouser/activist
28 Alice Kuban | Kilse Fashion
rabble–rouser noun : one that stirs up (as to hatred or violence) the masses of the people :
l&w: We’ve covered a bit about the work you do in the community. Can you tell us about any other projects you are involved in?
This super smart, passionate lady works in the field of HIV and AIDS housing.
Alicia: I work on the board of instigators for this organization called the Diversity Fund and I’m really excited about the work we do. We give small micro grants to folks in DC who are doing community organizing who don’t have access to traditional funding.
She’s worked with Washington, DC organizations such as the DC Rape Crisis Center, DASH (a domestic housing violence program), The Women’s Collective (an HIV and AIDS support program for women who are HIV positive and their families), just to name a few. Her work in the community still doesn’t stop there. Alicia is on the board of instigators for the Diversity Fund. Initiated in 2010 by a number of volunteer community activists and donors, the Diversity Fund facilitates small, micro-grants to community leaders and grassroots projects that work to better the DC community.
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Another project I was involved in was a support group. A friend of mine and I conducted a group collective... a body positive support group where folks of all body types and all genders came and talked about being body positive, acceptance and creating a world free of judgment. l&w: So let’s talk a bit about fashion. What do you look for in clothing, how do you accent your body shape? What reflects your style? Alicia: That’s a good question. I put on anything that fits. I’ve stopped being attached to numbers and what numbers mean. I feel like folks who fall outside of traditional norms of what’s an acceptable body have to be really creative and thoughtful in the ways we clothe our bodies. I tend to prefer all gold everything! If I have to have my one-of-a-kind fall-back thing, it’s always gold accessories. I like to shop vintage clothes and I think that there is this myth that we can’t wear it. You have to be really creative and get down in the nitty-gritty, and it might be a little harder, but there is always something for my body type. l&w: Let’s chat a bit about body type labels in the fashion industry. What is a mainstream term that you hate and what’s one that you identify with?
Alicia was photographed by Studio Moody. Above she is wearing a Haberdashery vintage blouse from I Found That Vintage, sold at Blues Hard Goods. Bold gold floral vintage earrings and charm bracelet by Mimilah. Visit mimilah.com for more information. Opposite page: Vintage teal dress from I Found That Vintage, sold at Blues Hard Goods. Earrings and charm bracelet by Mimilah.
Be Smart, Be You | print issue #3 | luri & wilma
Alicia: The term that I don’t like personally is big boned, although some people really like it. I actually am okay with not using curvy either; I prefer to call myself fat. I don’t like plus size either that’s just not a term I like. I don’t understand what the plus is. Plus what? I don’t really get it. I prefer to call myself fat because to me it’s a descriptor like anything else, right? But I know that some people, because of the negative connotation of the word, don’t like to use it. But, I feel like it takes back some of the power of the negativity of the word. So I like being a fatty.
Vintage Jewelry Collection
Learn more about Alicia Sanchez-Gill and the work she does with the Diversity fund at www.diversecityfund.org.
Find your go-to pieces and those “you are the greatest gift giver ever!” holiday offerings. Available at Blues Hard Goods beginning October 12th. 10803A 14th St NW Washington, DC 2009 Tue. - Fri. 1:00 pm- 8:00 pm Sat. 12:00 pm - 8:00 pm Sun. 12:00 pm - 6:00 pm
For more information, and an closeup peek at the collection, visit www.MIMILAH.com. 30 Alicia Sanchez-Gill
By day, Karen is a licensed professional counselor. She coaches/counsels women to be their best selves. Her job doesn’t stop there though. On the side, Karen is a stylist. Her fashion skills go way further than your average style maven – she helps women style from the inside out. ________________________________________ l&w: What does styling from the inside out mean to you? Karen: How we feel on the inside often manifests itself on the outside. I love to assist people with feeling good on the inside while they look good on the outside. l&w: How did you become involved in styling? What lead you into this industry? Karen: I started styling family and friends by their requests. Word of mouth referrals have really made my business boom. I love meeting new people and helping them feel so much better about their space and themselves. Everyone feels so accomplished when we are finished! l&w: Describe you personal style.
Karen Curtis Licensed therapist & personal stylist
Karen: My personal style is classic mixed with a little of the unexpected. I love accessories and funky shoes. They can really change the feel of an outfit.
l&w: How do you dress for your body type? Can you give any tips to others? Karen: I tend to stick to things that accent my small waist and give my hips room to breathe. Solid tops and printed bottoms are also a favorite of mine. I would suggest that people get to know their body. Put on your favorite outfits. Take pictures and make sure there is no gaping or pulling. Accent your best features! l&w: There are many “buzz words” when describing different body shapes in the media. What are some “buzz words” that you love that describe your body type? Any that you hate? Karen: I am not sure what words describe my body type. I like to think we are all unique. I much prefer to recognize all of the things I love about my body and emphasize those. I encourage all of my clients to do the same. To learn more about Karen and her styling from the inside out, visit www.yourstylistkaren.com. Karen Curtis is wearing a vintage teal dress from Beltway Vintage. Her scarf/belt is from I Found That Vintage, sold at Blues Hard Goods. Her gold scarf clip, turquoise clip-on earrings, small charm necklace and thick gold bracelet from Mimilah.com. Photography credit: Studio Moody. Be Smart, Be You | print issue #3 | luri & wilma
Leise Gergely Case manager
Traditional 9-5, nope! Social justice work and crime victims’ advocate, yup! Leise Gergely works for the Network for Victim Recovery of DC (NRVDC). She can be the first non-emergency personnel a sexual assault survivor encounters after an attack. A few days a week she is on call for 24-hours. During that “on-call” period, if someone in the Washington, DC area is sexually assaulted and reports it to either the police, medical sector or a hotline, she’s en route to meet them at the emergency room.
Crime victims were not being served as they needed to. While the main part of my job is to work with sexual assault survivors, we Leise: I’m in the office two days week from serve all crime victims. 9-5 but I’m also on call one to two days a week. And when you’re on call, you’re on l&w: Tell us a bit about the on call duties, call from 7am- 7am the next day. And the what’s that 24-hour period like? way that most recently played out, I had my first really true middle of the night call. I got Leise: I meet them in the emergency room called at 3:30am and got home at 8:30am. before the exam takes place. And I sit in So it’s a little unpredictable, but you never the room while the exam goes on and mosthave to be in the office the day after you’re ly I’m just there for support, I don’t say a on call, so they’re really good about taking whole lot. The nurses are very well trained A positive advocate, she helps victims care of us and making sure that we’re taking and are fantastic. I provide reassurance and through the process of the sexual assault care of ourselves. answer questions they may have while the nursing exam and anything else they may exam is going, like “Where do I go from need after the initial process, whether it l&w: So tell me a little bit more about the here? What do I do?” Sometimes they’ve be a ride home from the hospital, housing organization that you work for. Is it nonalready reported to the police, sometimes options, legal representation, counseling or profit? Is it government agency? they haven’t, sometimes they don’t at all. even job replacement. She’s a sort of go-beSometimes when it’s the emergency room, tween for the survivors and other organiza- Leise: NRVDC is a non-profit and it’s I’m just there as a hand to hold and we tions geared at getting them back on their relatively new. A couple of our stakeholders don’t necessarily go over a lot of informafeet after such a catastrophic event. got together and saw that there was this big tion at that moment. __________________________________ gap in services in Washington, DC. 32 Leise Gergely
l&w: Tell us a bit more about your notso-9-5, day job.
I typically follow up 48 hours later to give them some time to sleep and rest and compose their thoughts. From there we talk about counseling, housing or a protection order, or if they feel like they can’t go back to the same job, we discuss options. l&w: Tell us a bit about your spare time. What organization do you volunteer with? Leise: DC Safe - survivors and advocates for empowerment and they are a fantastic organization. They focus mostly on domestic violence and their Metropolitan Police Department (MPD) ride-along program is a way to kind of hold MPD to a higher standard about responding to domestic violence and family disturbance calls. I’ve been a volunteer for over 2 years and I do one or two ride-alongs a month and they’re 8-hour shifts. l&w: With such an on-the-go schedule, tell us a bit about your fashion style. Leise: That’s a good question. I try to be fairly contemporary with a kind of fun, funky edge. I like bright contrasting colors or, I realized recently that I wear solids or polka dots. Occasionally stripes but I’m not a big patterns girl. I like simple with a little flare.
l&w: Are you a consignment shop girl, vintage girl? Leise: I was very hardcore for a really long time and then when I moved to DC, I felt like there wasn’t a whole lot going on in the vintage consignment world, so I’m getting back in to it.
l&w: Is there any silhouette or time period that you kind of favor? Leise: I really love the A-line look of the 1950s housewife. But I’m also a fan of the 40s. The empowerment in women’s clothing – their hubbies were off to war so they had to take over at home. I like that they were still able to wear a fun dress but get shit done!
Leise Gergely is wearing a vintage printed lab coat from I Found That Vintage, sold at Blues Hard Goods. Vintage brass owl necklace and mixed-metal beveled earrings and floral necklace by Mimilah. Mimilah.com for more information. Photography credit: Studio Moody.
l&w: There are many “buzz words” when describing different body shapes in the media. What are some “buzz words” that you love that describe your body type? Any that you hate? Leise: I honestly don’t tend to describe body types. But I think curvy is how I would generally describe myself. But we’re all people, I’m a person, I dress this way. To learn more about Leise and her work at the Network for Victim Recovery of DC (NRVDC) visit www.nvrdc.org. To learn about DC Safe, www.visit dcsafe.org.
Be Smart, Be You | print issue #3 | luri & wilma
Carlista Martin Student/artist Carlista Martin is the youngest of our smart ladies but she’s well on her way! A student and artist, she is always dabbling in new medias. An avid maker or revamper of her clothing, she’s got thrifting and second-hand shopping down to a science. This semester she’s enrolled in classes that tackle weaving and textiles, a bit of lithography and she just finished wood log printing. _______________________________
Carlista: I like to be kind of androgynous. I wear a lot of my little brother’s clothes. And I generally shop at thrift stores. I generally don’t buy clothes that no one else has worn before, not that there’s anything wrong with that. My personal style is really eclectic, I love to pull things apart and sew them back together in different ways. I don’t like to have an outfit without some kind of personal touch to it.
l&w: What would you say is your specialty right now?
l&w: With all these stereotypes of fashion, obviously you’re pretty petite, are there any stereotypes about fashion that you hate being associated with?
Carlista: I have a lot of art projects I work on and I just kind of rotate. I’m equally passionate about them but I print, and then I go draw, and then I paint. And I’ve got a zine in the works that I’m going to get printed. l&w: You’re an artist in school and for anyone on a college budget, money is definitely a concern. Fast fashion, while very affordable, can be associated with poor manufacturing, sizing issues and the ethics behind where garmets are constructed. Tell us about your style and how you incorporate thrifting. 34 Carlista Martin
Carlista: I don’t know, I didn’t like being called a hipster until people started saying “you’re not a hipster” and I was like ‘Am I not with it’? I consider myself kind of punky, a DIY and crafts kind of girl. l&w: How do you dress for your body? Carlista: I feel like looking kind of disheveled is part of my look, so when I put on man’s shirt and it’s too big for me I kind of like that. I would never buy a tailored suit. And if something doesn’t fit, I cut it up! To see more of Carlista Martin’s works head to carlista.tumblr.com.
Carlista Martin is wearing a vintage gas station attendant shirt from I Found That Vintage, sold at Blues Hard Goods. Eclectic mix of vintage silver elephant earring, leather scorpion bolo tie, silver gargoyle bracelet and San Francisco sites charm bracelet pull the look together. All jewelry by Mimilah. Visit mimilah.com for more information. Photography credit: Studio Moody.
Halley Cohen Director of the Stuart Kurlander GLOE for the D.C. JCC
Halley is the director of The Kurlander Program for LGBT Outreach & Engagement (GLOE), which connects LGBT Jews at the DC Jewish Community Center. The main lady in charge, she manages volunteers and is the only full time employee. GLOE is the only LGBT program at any Jewish community center, anywhere in North America and holds around 40 programs and events every year in a variety of areas including: literature, community service, holidays and spirituality, social justice and social events. ________________________________________________
l&w: Tell us a bit about what you do at GLOE. Halley: I get to work with all sorts of fun people that are volunteers and part of my committee but one of the fun things about my job is that I am the only full time employee. We are a full time department of the Jewish Community Center, but of GLOE, there’s just one of me. We do about forty programs a year. There’s the drag ball every Porum because the only way you appropriately celebrate Porum is to dress in drag and get drunk and dance and have a great time. Be Smart, Be You | print issue #3 | luri & wilma
A few weeks later there’s Passover, so we host the National Rainbow Seder every year, usually focusing on a social justice issue in ways that people get involved. The story of Passover is really a story of liberation and freedom and every year we get to figure out new ways of what that means to us. l&w: Describe what your style is and what you look for in clothing to compliment your body. Halley: What I look for really connects with what I do every day. I think style is about creating your own reality. So for me, that’s definitely on the femmer side of things and really figuring out how to recreate gender every day. Usually that’s something that’s going to have a little bit of structure in it. All of the flowy things don’t necessarily work for me. If I’m not comfortable, no matter what it is, I know that I’m not going to look good. If there is something that shows off the Jew booty, fantastic! l&w: As a vintage fashion wearer, what is your favorite silhouette? Halley: I love the 50’s and the early 60’s where you had the fitted bodice and the full skirt. When it gets into the 60’s a little bit more, usually the hem lines are going up. Because I’m short, anything too long looks a little bit ridiculous on me. But, if you go along the line of 50’s Chanel, 50’s Dior, where it’s fitted than just goes full out at the waist and if you give me a crinoline, I’m so happy. Anything that you can just twirl and find layers and layers, depending on what you are paring it with, can create a whole new persona. l&w: There are many “buzz words” when describing different body shapes in the media. What are some “buzz
words” that you love that describe your body type? Any that you hate? Halley: I have a really hard time coming up with word that I hate because I just try not to focus on them. I think that there is so much everyday street harassment. You can walk down the street feeling great and someone shouts out of a window, whatever it is to comment on your body. It’s all so striking but it is all a part of this idea of everybody getting to have an opinion about women’s bodies. I try not to pay attention to that as much as possible. It’s around, but I’d rather look around me and see someone just rocking their curves. To learn more about GLOE, visit www.washingtondcjcc.org Above, Halley Cohen is wearing a vintage R & K dress from I Found That Vintage, sold at Blues Hard Goods. Her black/gold oval clip earrings and gold/turquoise necklace are available online at Mimilah.com On the left, she is wearing a vintage print blouse from I Found That Vintage, sold at Blues Hard Goods. Black/gold oval clip earrings and red owl/tassel charm necklace are available online at Mimilah.com. Photography credit: Les Joueurs Photography. 36 Halley Cohen
Rachel G. Eisley is a photographer based in DC and NYC. She fell in love with the lens in her early teens, and now teaches art and photography classes at H-B Woodlawn Secondary Program. Her photos have recently been published in “New York: A Portrait” by Jean-Louis Cohen. ________________________________________ l&w: Tell us a bit more about what you do. Rachel: I’m currently splitting my time between Baltimore and Brooklyn shooting photos and teaching adults how to use their camera exclusively in “manual” mode through Remember Forever Photography. Remember Forever is based in NYC, but I teach Washington, DC area adults on weekends and evenings downtown on the mall (in between the Capital building and the National Gallery of Art). I’m also currently an art & culture correspondent for Curbed/ Eater DC, and the Brooklyn Paper, among others. I’m in the planning stages of developing community improvement projects for cities with abandoned building and public education issues. I live each day with the belief that people with vision absolutely have the power to change our world permanently if they focus on and pursue their dreams. l&w: Describe your personal style. Rachel: When it comes to my own style, I tend towards combining stylistic elements which provide a bold contrast to one another in effect, or color. For example, starting with basics like a black mini skirt, leggings and boots, and then adding a unique top and/or accessories. I’m a big fan of wearing casual dresses with leggings, for style, comfort and practicality. I can look still look nice while wearing clothes that I can run around it, sweat in, get dirty without ruining, and yet still manage to be modest/ professional while teaching or photographing.
Rachel G. Eisley Photographer/artist/ teacher
l&w: Where do you like to shop? Modern retailers? Vintage? Can you tell us how you feel about sizing/sizes at these retailers for your body type?
Rachel: My favorite clothing store at the moment is Torrid. They have awesome online sales, and their sizing is completely well-enforced and regular, translation: I order everything online and have yet to make one return. I often buy vintage clothes I’m obsessed with scarves and blazers; they are effortless at thrift stores and flea markets, and then alter them to fit me and can change the look and feel of an outfit in one second. better. Because I’m so disappointed in the variety of clothing Invest in basics, and take care of them well so they retain for the zaftig woman, (by the way I think zaftig should replace their shape and color. For formal wear, SPANX really is a plus size!) I am currently raising capital to start my own “plus” curvy girl’s best friend. But ladies, once you are comfortable basics line. and feel beautiful to yourself, that’s when it becomes immediately obvious to everyone else. You also can’t underesti- l&w: How do you dress for your body type? mate the power of a well-placed accessory. Sparkles, bold gem-tone colors, buttery leather and shiny metals are some Rachel: I’ve thought quite a bit about dressing myself since I was of my fave accessory elements right now. a kid, I loved to be expressive with my clothes. Then as I grew up, I quickly realized that contemporary fashions were made with muscle/fat-free versions of the female form in mind.
Be Smart, Be You | print issue #3 | luri & wilma
I was 5’ 10” by the age of 13 and got curvier as time went on. I can definitively say the clothing-size landscape has become far more inclusive towards a fuller spectrum of female body types since the mid 1990s.Yet, there is a prevalent entertainment/media bias against non-thin women which encourages the fashion industry to ignore the shape of females with apparent body fat (aka CURVES, people!). One nice thing about having curves is that you don’t need to rely on a garment’s structure as heavily when figuring out what looks work for your body. Instead, it’s more important to figure out what fabrics and cuts are most flattering to your shape, and then let your curves do the talkin.’ An empire waist is pretty much beautiful on anybody, and does a lot to highlight your best features regardless of the shape of your tummy, butt and thighs. The best advice I have is to remember that there aren’t any “perfect” bodies. All of our bodies look a little weird sometimes, and that’s okay. However, there are better and worse looks for everyone. Identify your most striking features, always dress to emphasize them. Confidence without cockiness and happiness with generosity are the most beautiful traits a person can have, and once present, actually shine through any less-than-ideal aspect of your appearance. (PRO TIP!)
l&w: There are many “buzz words” when describing different body shapes in the media, from “pin thin” to “curvy” to “voluptuous,” What are some “buzz words” that you love that describe your body type? Any that you hate? Rachel: I think that there needs to be some innovation in these terms. I hate the term “plus” size. I Above Rachel G. Eisley is wearing a “Navajo” printed blazer from I Found That think voluptuous is a good word, but has a sexier Vintage, sold at Blues Hard Goods. Silver cowboy hats/boots dangle earrings and brass connotation than is necessary in describing body oval charm/blue stones necklace from Mimilah. On the previous page, she is wearing types for fashion unless specifically referring to lina vintage Tomorrow’s Dreams plaid blouse from I Found That Vintage, sold at Blues Hard Goods. Her white/gold circular clip earrings and black beaded/brass circle gerie. I suggest we all start using the word “Zaftig” charm necklace are available online at Mimilah.com. Photography credit: Les Joueurs which means: having a “deliciously plump” full Photography. rounded figure, while carrying your extra weight very well. “Z-size” clothing instead of “plus size” for the win! To learn more about Rachel, visit her website at www.rachel-eisley.com.
38 Rachel G. Eisley
world girl
Rachel Grossman Ringleader of dog & pony dc
39 Alice Kuban | Kilse Fashion
Be Smart, Be You | print issue #3 | luri & wilma
Rachel Grossman is the ringleader of an ensemble-based theater company in Washington, DC. She oversees all the organizational details of dog & pony dc. From marketing, to fundraising to company development and participating as a member of the ensemble, she is a Jane of all trades! _______________________________ l&w: Tell us a bit about your organization. Rachel: dog & pony dc is a non-profit theater company and we are focused on providing audiences new ways of experiencing theater. What that actually means is that our performances are highly participatory. The sort of reductive way of saying it is that there is no fourth wall in our performances. I like to think the shows capitalize on the untapped resource that is the audience. One of our shows has a “town hall meeting” structure, the other is like a big party game and the new one we are still creating is a big group science experiment. l&w: Tell us what your average day is like?
dog & pony dc was founded by me and two other women. We were interested in creating work, one: as an ensemble, and two: acknowledging the audience and the ensemble. It eventually grew, as most companies do, over its first few years into a real understanding of our artistic mission and our community mission and in some ways it’s really about upending the way theater is produced and performed here in D.C. and across the country.
Most of, or should I say half of my formal wear moves and is inclined more towards the vintage. My biggest problem is that my ribcage doesn’t fit into most of it but it actually shows off the best part of my features, the 40’s and 50’s kind of look.
l&w: Would you say that the 40’s and 50’s is your favorite silhouette wise?
Rachel: Yeah, I would say so, something that kinds of accentuate the hour glass l&w: Describe your fashion style. As an figure a little more, though I really like Rachel: Because dog & pony dc is an extreme multitasker, how do you dress short little dresses of the 60’s hemline, artist led company, I will switch back for your body type? more mod. I use to have a little great and forth between wearing a more jumper that I would call my ‘Brady creative artistic hat and a more business Rachel: Well, I think as of the past Bunch’ dress. I swear to God that I administration hat. So for instance, I three to four years my answer would would be walking out wanting to say, spend some time working on a script now be “Can I ride my bike in it?” I ‘Marsha, Marsha, Marsha!’ for the first scene of a new show we’re became a really big commute biker developing called, Toast. I will spend because I am moving in and out of l&w: How does vintage and consignabout three hours working on that and I rehearsal. dog & pony dc’s offices are ment fashion play into dog & pony spend some time working on a fairly casual work environments. Most marketing plan for our upcoming run of of the time I’m in active wear and things dc? our two shows at Round House Theater that allow me to be active but slightly Rachel: With our costumes, we’re (in Bethesda, MD). look professional. I have a really colorful look, a lot of color-blocking. I’m really big into shopping collectively l&w: Tell us a bit about your theater a big jewelry girl and I cut my hair very with the other artists. I will do a lot of experience. short for a show and I kept it. shopping with them for the costumes Rachel: I had a twelve year career in art education and community arts projects in theater, at the professional theater level. 40 Rachel Grossman
l&w: Do you do a lot of vintage or consignment shopping? Rachel: I really like a lot of vintage and I own a lot of it.
that I wear. It’s about looking, not only for pieces that match, but to look for the pieces that are “it” or can be manipulated into “it.”
l&w: What are some of the stereotypes used in fashion that describe your body image? What are some that you identify with and some you don’t like? Rachel: I don’t think anyone wants to hear this but I am challenged with being a smaller person. When I into stores now, and this is why I like shopping consignment, I now have to look at extra small or a size zero because sizing is so off. I believe that clothes that are made for smaller people tend to be made for smaller people who are not my shape. There is more of a straight line as oppose to a curvier hour glass. Though I might be small, I still have breasts and hips, so it’s a real balance. I buy most of my t-shirts in the children’s section because they are short enough as opposed to t-shirts in the women’s section or men’s because they are way long right now. I feel like there’s a perception that you have to be tall and from the fashion world, but from the regular society or everyday world, people think I have no problem and that I can wear whatever I want “because I am small” or “you are fit” or “you are thin,” but I actually have a real hard time finding clothes that fit me.
For more info on dog & pony dc, visit www.dogandponydc.com.
Rachel Grossman is wearing a vintage Saint Laurent printed skirt and a vintage Williams Suede & Leather jacket from I Found That Vintage, sold at Blues Hard Goods. Style-on pile on – Vintage gold starfish necklace, silver beaded necklace and silver double-sided pegasus necklace all by Mimilah. Vintage turquoise and gold beaded necklace (used as bracelet), Native American turquoise and silver charm bracelet and beaded black and gold necklace (as belt) also Mimilah. Mimilah.com for more info. Photography credit: Studio Moody.
Be Smart, Be You | print issue #3 | luri & wilma
Christine Brosonski is a paralegal in the affordable housing group of the national firm, Nixon Peabody. She has more than 14 years of experience as a paralegal specializing in affordable housing.
Christine Brosonski Paralegal/ Board Member of Sarah’s Circle
In her spare time, she sits on the board of Sarah’s Circle, a not-for-profit located in the Adams Morgan community of Washington, DC. An affordable housing residence and wellness center, founded in 1983, Sarah’s Circle provides services for low-income seniors. l&w: Tell us a bit about your work in affordable housing. Christine: For over 3 years, I’ve been involved with Sarah’s Circle as a volunteer. At the end of 2012, I became a board member. Sarah’s Circle is a highrise apartment building that houses low-income seniors. They provide the tenants with a safe, clean, lovely living facility. But, they also provide activities, such as: yoga, art classes, watercolor classes, bingo, field trips, movies and more. They are active seniors, you can take them to a party and they’ll get on the dance floor in a heartbeat! &w: Let’s talk a little about fashion. How do you shop and what’s your style?
Sarah’s Circle is a not-for-profit, affordable senior housing community. To learn more or make a donation, visit www.sarahscircle.org.
Christine: I find myself buying good staple pieces and then adding to that. A lot of my vintage accessorize that – jewelry, bags, things like that. I always joke that I was born too late I’m an old soul. I like old movies, I collect vinyl, but I like to be comfortable; I’m a jeans and t-shirt kind of girl. l&w: What are some of the stereotypes used in fashion that describe your body image? What are some that you identify with and some you don’t like? Christine: The term plus, that’s just kind of irritating after a while because frankly you look at society and everyone’s plus at this point. I think I kind of resort to that ideal description but I’m above average, whatever that is.
42 Christine Brosonski
Christine Brosonski is wearing a vintage navy dress with a green & white paisley print from I Found That Vintage, sold at Blues Hard Goods. Classic with character vintage black and gold dangling bears earrings and gold wide-link bracelet by Mimilah. Mimilah.com for more information. Photography by Studio Moody at Blues Hard Goods in Washington, DC.
Daina Ruback Program coordinator for The Aspen Network of Development Entrepreneurs
Daina Ruback is the program coordinator for The Aspen Network of Development Entrepreneurs (ANDE), housed within The Aspen Institute. A network of organizations that support small, growing businesses in emerging markets, ANDE works to reduce poverty all over the world by fostering small businesses. Diane works with women entrepreneurs in developing countries.
group, which is supporting women entrepreneurs.
l&w: Tell us a bit more about your work at ANDE.
l&w: Tell us a bit more your work with women business owners before you joined ANDE.
Daina: We are a network of organizations that support small growing businesses in emerging markets, all over the world. We think the correct assumption is by supporting those businesses, it will reduce poverty in other regions. A lot of people share that opinion but it hasn’t been well tested just yet, so that’s what my organization and the organizations that are a part of the network work to do. In my everyday work, specifically, I get to work with our women’s working
ANDE is four years old now and is a relatively new program. But we are getting organizations that are doing work all over the world to talk to each other and share successful business practices with each other. We form an easy collaborate space for them to be more effective at what they’re doing.
Daina: Right before I moved to DC I was a small businesses counselor and I worked with Latino women outside of NYC who were looking to start their own business. And before that, I was a Peace Corps volunteer in Nicaragua, also working with small businesses and teaching entrepreneurship there. l&w: How would you describe your personal style? Daina: I tend to gravitate towards
classic, unique pieces. What usually draws my eyes into a store is a feeling of, oh, I’ve never seen that pattern, I have never seen that color, and I don’t have anything in my wardrobe that looks like that. I did ballet my whole life so I also like to feel like a ballerina in some things that I wear. I wear my hair up in a bun, all of all the time. If I can feel like a ballerina, a dancer in my daily life, that’s what I try and go for. I haven’t done a lot of vintage shopping since I’ve been back in the states. But when I was in Nicaragua, I was there for two years with the Peace Corps, they had tons of Republic of Americana stores that sell clothes from the states that have been sent down and some of them are vintage pieces. I was able to collect quite a treasure chest. l&w: What are some of the stereotypes used in fashion that describe your body image? Be Smart, Be You | print issue #3 | luri & wilma
Daina: One of the things that really gets to me in the fashion industry is that there’s not a good word for mid-sized people. I’m a little below plus size and right at the top of normal sizes so there’s really not a lot of retailers that carry those sizes. I wish that there was a segment of the market that really addressed people my size - 12. I don’t like any words that describe bigger ladies, I don’t like plus size, I don’t like curvy. I hear curvy too much, and I think when people hear curvy, or when guys hear curvy, it’s already been tuned out. Sofia Vargara is curvy, like I don’t even think I’m curvy anymore cause that’s curvy. Sometimes I like to use words like “zaftig” I don’t think that word is used enough. To learn more about ANDE and the Aspen Institute, visit http://bit.ly/15k0zIH.
Daina Ruback is wearing a vintage red dress from I Found That Vintage, sold at Blues Hard Goods. Her gold/black necklace (used as a headpiece) and gold “swirly” charm necklace are available online at Mimilah.com. Above: vintage Morro Bay “Lily” dress from I Found That Vintage, sold at Blues Hard Goods. Vintage headpiece/necklace with arrow charm and beaded necklace by Mimilah. Photography credit: Les Joueurs Photography.
44 Alice Kuban | Kilse Fashion
beauty Natural beauty picks to transition from fall to winter. by Amber Paranick
We know beauty comes from the inside and resonates outward, but making small changes in your look for the fall season can give you a little beauty boost. By adopting a more natural beauty routine with eco-friendly products from ethical brands, you can rest assured you are making the world an even more beautiful place. Apply Josie Maran’s skin-matching foundation over your face for a truly flawless base. josiemarancosmetics.com Line those pretty peepers in Tarte’s Amazonian clay waterproof liner for a look that will take through the day and well into the night. tartecosmetics.com Fresh’s sugar balm is a staple of mine and this season’s vivid Cherry stole my heart. It’s made from sugar, so you can be sure you aren’t ingesting unnatural ingredients every time you re-apply. fresh.com Lavanila’s products have always been a favorite of mine and their lavender-scented healthy deodorant is always in my bag or medicine cabinet. And don’t sweat it: it’s free of ingredients that are usually contained in other deodorants like parabens, petrochemicals, phthalates, silicones and aluminum. lavanila.com Zoya natural nail polish is free of toxic ingredients we just adore their hunter and flynn colors for fall. zoya.com
Made from a gentle formula and free of gluten, parabens, artificial colors, and gluten; Mineral Fusion’s mascaras will give you the long lashes you crave without breaking your beauty bank. mineralfusion.com
Graphic designed by Natalie Russell.
Use Astara’s gentle yet effective Daily Defining Scrub to take it all off at the end of the day. To repair your skin cells while you sleep and sooth skin damaged by wind and sun, apply their Golden Flame Hydration Mask before bed. You’ll wake up looking like you’re ready to take on the world. astaraskincare.com
Be Smart, Be You | print issue #3 | luri & wilma
See & Do
DIY you can wear & a curling iron station.
Fallon Kiplinger
Flat Iron Station
Whether you fancy up your hair or keep it au naturel, chances are you’ve got a flat iron. If you’re more of a break it out only for special occasions, you still need to store it cute! Here’s a little DIY to keep your hair essentials classy.
Step 2: measure your PVC pipe with your paper and cut out the appropriate amount of paper.
What you’ll need:
Repeat this step with the other two pipes and allow 20 minutes of drying time.
(3) PVC pipe around 6 inches each Mod Podge Glue gun with glue sticks depending on size Covering of choice (I chose a sheet of paper) Pair of scissors Paint brush I selected my piece of PVC pipe from Home Depot. The piece came in one long strip, but a lovely customer service rep cut it into three pieces. Step 1: wash any residue off your PVC pips using dish washing soap. 58 See & Do | DIY flat iron station
Step 3: using a paint brush, cover your paper with Mod Podge and attach it to the PVC pipe.
Warm up your glue gun for about a minute. It may take less time or more, depending on the style, size and brand of the glue gun. Step 4: Stack the pipes in a triangle and attach hot glue to each side. Allow at least 2 minutes of drying time. **Always use precaution when operating heating tools at high temperature. This DIY article is to simply make a flat iron holder to avoid burning a coffee table, desk, vanity, etc. The melting point of PVC pipe is 360 degrees. This should not happen by placing your flat iron in the holder while doing your hair, but do not leave the flat iron on and in the holder. It is not safe.
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Be Smart, Be You | print issue #3 | luri & wilma
Adelle Gresock
Fabric headband
Whenever I go through a lot of sewing projects, I always come across the same dilemma: what do I do with the scraps that are too big to toss, but too small to really do anything with? That’s when I started making these cute little headbands. I love the look of bandanas as accessories. LOVE it. The problem is that I never can wrap them correctly or get them to stay exactly the way I want. So why not make a fail-proof ‘bandana’? For these, I like to use mostly scrap fabrics or recycled clothes that I don’t wear anymore. However, many fabric stores also sell $1 fabric samples or quilting squares that work perfectly for this project. You need at least 30” of fabric. If your fabric isn’t long enough to cut out one continuous strip, you can always piece it together by sewing right sides together at a ½” seam allowance. 1. Cut out a piece of fabric 30” x 4” with the last two inches on each side angled into a point. After you make the point, snip off about half an inch so that the “point” is squared off. 2. Fold your fabric in half (hot dog style) so that the right sides are touching. Sew the length and one end of the fabric at ½”. Leave the other short end open so you can get the wire in. 3. After you sew the length and one end, flip the fabric inside out so that your right sides are showing. 4. Cut a 29” piece of wire and curl the ends in so they won’t poke through the fabric. Insert the wire into your fabric. 5. The edges of the remaining open end need to be carefully folded in, then top stitched on your machine in a matching or complimentary thread. You’re set to go after you make sure all your threads are clipped.
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Be Smart, Be You | print issue #3 | luri & wilma
Adelle Gresock
Beaded button up
My friends know that I am always on the hunt for clothing to repurpose. Because of that, I end up being their first stop before they take anything to the thrift store. In the last few months I have received several button ups that were fine, but rather dull. I wanted to give them some more personality so I decided to add some sparkle. I like to work with beads that match or compliment the color of my button up, but then throw in a couple of contrasting colors for fun. If you’re not sure what kind of color scheme you want, I’ve found that looking at paintings is a great way to find a cohesive pallet. N.B. – Keep the shirt buttoned while you work, but be sure not to sew it closed! 1. Start by double threading your needle. Instead of letting one end hang and knotting the other, tie both ends into a knot. This gives your stitching a little extra security if you have chosen heavier beads. 2. Stitch on beads one at a time. 3. After about five or six beads you are going to want to knot off your thread. If your thread is long enough to keep stitching after you knot it, go ahead and keep going with five or six more beads before knotting off again. You don’t need to snip your threads unless you’re unable to keep stitching. 4. Do this for ¾ of the placket. I like to stop before the bottom of the shirt so I have the option to comfortably tuck it in if I want. And that’s it! Enjoy your sassy new button up!
bead it up...
62 See & Do | DIY beaded button up
tie it off...
look snazzy!
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Be Smart, Be You | print issue #3 | luri & wilma
Citlalli Sanchez
How to make any jacket/coat water resistant
The need for waterproofing fabric goes back to the early sailing industry. A Scottish mill began to develop this process back in the late 1700’s by treating fabric with oil from a flax plant. The 1930’s brought about the new process of saturating cloth with paraffin wax; which is the same process many still use to this day. Waxed cotton is very durable, water resistant, and seems to develop it’s own unique character with age. The process of waxing canvas/cotton changes the properties of the fabric by making it slightly stiffer, and by darkening it’s color, too. The process below is a quick and easy way to add water resistance to any jacket/coat you might already have lying around. Not to mention the unique, yet rugged look you get from it. Now you can take a stylish jacket you already own and make it water resistant. No more frumpy looking raincoats! The best part is that you are not left wondering about which chemicals, thinners and/or solvents were used in order to make your garments water resistant. First up, let’s gather our supplies. One jacket or coat. A light jacket works best since the wax will stiffen up the fabric. One small pot that you don’t mind ruining. A heat gun. A hairdryer will do the trick as well, but it will take longer. A paint brush you don’t mind ruining with wax. Equal parts of beeswax and fully refined paraffin wax. Paraffin wax contains oil, but fully refined (or food grade paraffin wax) contains the least amount of oil. This helps make sure we don’t make a “flammable” jacket. First we need to melt both waxes in your pot. Make sure you do it on low heat; you don’t want your waxes to boil. Next step is to brush your jacket with the wax mixture. Make sure to place a drop cloth underneath your jacket in order to catch any wax that might seep through the fabric as you brush the wax on. The wax will harden and turn white as you brush it on, this is normal.
64 See & Do | How to make any jacket/coat water resistant
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Now it’s time to grab your heat gun and go over your entire jacket. This is what emulsifies and sets your wax in. Make sure not to put the heat gun directly on your jacket, the gun gets pretty hot and you might end up burning your jacket. If your jacket becomes too rigid, then ironing it will take some of the rigidness off. Make sure you use two pieces of fabric; one on top, one on bottom of your jacket as you iron it. This will prevent any wax from getting on your iron and/or ironing board. You’re done! Now you’re ready to wear your stylish and water resistant jacket around town! A perfect jacket for those rainy days!
Be Smart, Be You | print issue #3 | luri & wilma
Three chefs: BEAUTIFUL weeknight dinners.
November & December 2013
Liz Eggleston
Heirloom Tomato & Beet Gazpacho Aside from being the perfect make-ahead, quick-cleanup recipe, I love this gazpacho because it relies on fresh ingredients for a bright and complex flavor. The raw veggies lend a subtle spice to the cold soup, and garden herbs leave it freshly flavored. Red and golden beets impart a deep magenta hue while keeping the soup slightly sweet. Plus, this silky staple requires zero cooking and limited utensils, so you can stay cool in the kitchen while impressing your guests with a light supper. This recipe will serve two as a main course or four as an appetizer.
Ingredients: 3 large heirloom tomatoes ½ large cucumber, seeded ½ red onion 3 cloves garlic 2 beets (try for a mix of red & golden) Handful of fresh herbs: basil, parsley, lemon thyme, chives. 3 tbs red wine vinegar ¼ cup olive oil Putting it all together: First, finely dice the cucumber, red onion, and garlic. Seed the tomatoes and dice them as well. When it comes to tomatoes for this gazpacho, I opt for heirloom, but any blend of particularly juicy ones will do- Green Zebras and Brandywines are favorites. Combine the vegetables in a large bowl and use an immersion blender to puree the veggies until smooth, adding the olive oil slowly. To flavor the gazpacho, use any herbs you have on hand- I snipped a handful of basil, parsley, chives and lemon thyme from the window box. Add 3 tablespoons of red wine vinegar, then cover the bowl and pop it in the refrigerator. Because the flavors of this gazpacho intensify with time, I like to keep it in the fridge for up to two days, then strain it using a fine sieve when I’m ready for a quick weeknight dinner. Of course, if you don’t want to strain the veggies, you’re welcome to serve it chunky, but I’m always impressed with silky soups. Serve it up in bowls with roasted shrimp, a creamy burrata, or toasted ciabatta for a simple supper. 68 Easy weeknight dinner ideas
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Liz of The Hungry Texans Liz is a native Texan, DC transplant, and one half of The Hungry Texans food blog. She enjoys cooking with fresh, local ingredients, and will always be influenced by years spent in her grandma’s kitchen, whipping up Southern staples.
www.thehungrytexans.com
Be Smart, Be You | print issue #3 | luri & wilma
Audrey Grygiel
Fresh Farm Pizza Makes one 13 inch pizza Feel free to save time with store bought dough
Ingredients: 1½ cups bread flour, plus more for dusting work surface 1 tbsp sugar ¼ tsp rapid-rise yeast 2/3 cups ice water ½ tbsp vegetable oil 1 tsp salt 1½ cup butternut squash- cut into 1 inch cubes 1 bulb fennel- cut into sixteen bite-sized wedges ½ small red onion- cut very thinly into rings 3 slices of thinly sliced prosciutto 3-4 oz. goat cheese, crumbled into 1/2 inch chunks 1 handful arugula 1 tbsp agave nectar 2 tbsp olive oil 2 cloves garlic, minced salt and pepper to taste
Putting it all together: To make the dough: (This can also be done in a food processor, fitted with a dough blade.) Whisk together the dry ingredients; flour, sugar, yeast until well combined. Slowly add water and mix until no dry flour is left in the bowl. Let dough rest for roughly 10 minutes. Add the oil and salt and mix until incorporated. Knead roughly 5 times until smooth and shape into a ball. Lightly oil a large mixing bowl and place the dough in the bowl to rise. Wrap with plastic wrap and let rest for 24 hours in the refrigerator. Before preparing the pizza, remove the dough from the refrigerator and let rest for 1 hour. For the ingredients: Pre-heat oven to 425 Toss butternut squash and fennel in the agave nectar and place on a sheet pan lined with parchment paper. Sprinkle with salt to taste. Roast for 20-30 minutes, until golden on the edges. As the veggies bake, prepare the crust. Dust your countertop with flour. Coat the ball of dough with flour and gently flatten the ball into an 8-10 inch disk with your fingertips. Leave the outer inch of the crust slightly thicker than the center. Gradually stretch the dough into a 13 inch round, working along the edges and gently turning the dough as you it stretches. Assembling the pizza: Pre-heat oven to 500 Place pizza stone in oven Lightly dust a pizza peel with cornmeal. Gently shift the pizza crust to the peel. Brush with olive oil and top with garlic. Top with squash, fennel, prosciutto and red onion and transfer to the oven onto the pizza stone. Bake for 10 minutes, rotating halfway through cooking. After 10 minutes, add crumbled goat cheese and bake for 3-5 more minutes. Remove from oven and leave to cool for 5 minutes. With a pizza cutter, cut your pizza into the desired amount of slices. Mound arugula in center and drizzle with more olive oil to taste. Serve and enjoy! 70 Easy weeknight dinner ideas
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Audry of DISH Audrey has been cooking professionally for six years now. Following her education at Syracuse University, she worked as the Chef and Event Planner at a Virginia winery. From there, she went on to assist a personal chef in the DC area. She fell in love with the concept of helping people and families eliminate the stress of wondering what’s for dinner and how to keep it nutritionally beneficial. She started her personal chef business called DISH; Dine In Stay Home, in March 2013.
DISH dine.in.stay.home Personal Chef Services 202-812-1379 dineinstayhome@gmail.com www.dineinstayhome.com
Be Smart, Be You | print issue #3 | luri & wilma
Tolga Erbatur
Chicken Carbonnade & Dill Roasted Potatoes
Ingredients for chicken carbonnade:
Putting it all together:
2 tablespoons (¼ stick) unsalted butter 4 large chicken thighs with skin & bones ⅜ teaspoon ground allspice 1 pound onions, thinly sliced 3 teaspoons (packed) dark brown sugar, divided 4 small bay leaves 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 1 cup dark beer ½ cup beef broth 1 to 2 teaspoons red wine vinegar
Melt butter in large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Sprinkle chicken with salt, pepper, and allspice. Add chicken to skillet and sauté until brown, about 4 minutes per side; transfer to plate. Add onions and 2 teaspoons brown sugar to skillet; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cover and sauté until deep golden brown, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes. Mix in bay leaves, mustard and remaining 1 teaspoon sugar. Add chicken, skin side down, then beer and broth, and 1 teaspoon vinegar. Bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium. Simmer, covered, 10 minutes. Uncover skillet and simmer until chicken is cooked through and sauce thickens, turning chicken occasionally, about 20 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and more vinegar, if desired.
72 Easy weeknight dinner ideas
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Ingredients for dill roasted potatoes: 2 lbs small red potatoes (cut to four) 3 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp butter (melted) 2 garlic cloves (minced) 2 tbsp snipped fresh dill 1¼ tsp salt ¼ tsp pepper Putting it together: Combine all ingredients inside a plastic bag and shake. Pour contents onto a baking sheet, bake at 350 degrees for 25 minutes, broil for 3 minutes. Serve hot.
Tolga Erbatur Tolga is the chef partner at DC’s best dive bar/fish & chips pub, The Codmother on U Street NW. He studied at the L’Academie de Cuisine.
Megan Paranick
Fall’s bounty brings a plethora of delicious vegetables and fruits. In alphabetical order, these ones are coming soon to a farmer’s market near you.
Apples- You know what they say: An Kale: Toss the leaves with some
apple a day keeps the doctor away. olive oil, sea salt for a healthier chip! Make an apple crisp, make a pie, or slice it up and add to an almond butter sandwich. (Grilled cheese works, too!)
Leeks: These provide an onion flavor
when you are in the mood for somerugula- Some call it bitter, some call thing different. it better! Allow this leafy green to add some pizazz to any dish. We find it tastes great on pizza. nions: Available late summer
A
O
through the fall. Flavorful and plentiful.
Broccoli raab- Tastes great steamed
and on a sandwich! Full of Vitamin K and fiber, help us to be satisfied.
Brussels Sprouts- Roast ‘em or toast ‘em, (just don’t boil ‘em, unless you want to relive your days in the high school cafeteria).
Cabbage- Try it pickled for a good
source of prebiotics, or steam and stuff the leaves with nuts, rice, and dried fruit.
Parsnips: Look like white carrots and have a great nutty flavor.
Peppers: Both sweet and spicy varieties are harvested in late summer and early fall.
Persimmons- Try not to miss the short
window in the fall and early winter arrots- These Vitamin A sticks are look for bright, heavy-feeling fruits. helping us to see the world through a clearer lens.
C
Cauliflower: Try it breaded and
roasted to bring out the sweetness.
Potatoes are excellent storage vegeta-
bles, and most varieties are harvested in the fall.
Celery-Top with peanut butter and Pumpkins are the most common raisins for an “after work” treat. winter squash.
Celeriac/Celery Root: Don’t judge
this root guy by its cover- inside it’s a nutty vegetable that tastes great in a variety of ways. 74
Radicchio is more sweet and less bitter when the weather is cool.
Radishes: Great for providing flavor in salads and toppings.
Rutabagas- aka “yellow turnips” are a
root vegetable loaded with fiber, potassium, and vitamin C.
Spinach is available summer through fall and is an easy way to get in your daily iron requirements.
Sweet potatoes aka “yams” are avail-
able late summer all the way through to winter to carry us through the holiday season.
Turnips will turn up the sweet flavor in mashed potatoes. Available all winter long.
Tomatoes are in season until Octo-
ber but they also can very well. Try a tomato jam or sauce for the long winter season.
W inter squash of all sorts comes into season in early fall and last well into winter.
Charlie Heck
world girl
1 ingredient/ 3 ways 75 Alice Kuban | Kilse Fashion
Recipes & copy by Audrey Grygiel Be Smart, Be You | print issue #3 | luri & wilma Photography by Studio Moody
Cauliflower Audrey Grygiel
Curry Roasted Cauliflower with Lemon Cilantro Yogurt Serves 3-4
Ingredients:
Putting It All Together:
1 head cauliflower, discard stalks and cut into 2-3 inch florets ½ tsp ground coriander ½ tsp ground cumin ½ tsp paprika 2 tsp curry powder ½ tsp salt ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil 1 tbsp apple cider vinegar
Pre-heat oven to 425 degrees. Place the dry sheet pan on middle rack of oven to heat.
1 cup Greek yogurt juice of ½ lemon 1 tbsp cilantro, chopped fine salt and pepper to taste
In a large bowl, combine coriander, cumin, paprika, curry powder and salt. Add the olive oil and vinegar and whisk to combine. Toss the cauliflower into the mixture and coat evenly. Carefully pour the mixture onto hot sheet pan and roast for 20-30 minutes turning once, halfway through cooking. As the cauliflower roasts, combine the yogurt, lemon juice, cilantro, salt and pepper into a small serving bowl. Serve together immediately.
76 1 ingredient/3 ways
food
Cauliflower Steaks with Celery Root and Potato Puree Serves 2-3
Ingredients: 1 head cauliflower; trim the leaves and only the very bottom of the stalk 3-4 tbsp olive oil salt and pepper to taste 2 russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes 1 small celery root, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes 1 tbsp parsley, stems removed ½ clove garlic, peeled ½-1 cup cream or milk salt and pepper to taste Putting It All Together: Cut the cauliflower from top to bottom into 3, 1-inch thick steaks. Each steak will be a cross-section of the head of cauliflower. Be careful not to saw while cutting, this will separate the florets from the stems and you will not achieve the desired result. Be careful while handling the cut steaks. Set aside. In a small saucepan, add the potatoes and celery root and cover with 1-inch water. Bring to a boil and cook until softened. About 10-12 minutes. Drain and add to a food processor or blender. Add the parsley, garlic and half of the cream and blend, adding more and more cream to achieve desired consistency. It should be slightly thinner than mashed potatoes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside. Heat 2 tbsp olive oil in a pan over medium-high heat. Sauté each steak one at a time for 2-3 minutes on each side, until golden brown and slightly tender. Season with salt and pepper. Plate the puree first, with the steak resting on top. Serve immediately.
Giardiniera Ingredients: Vegetable Mixture:
½ small head cauliflower cut into ½ inch florets, discard the stalks ½ red bell pepper cut into ½ inch chunks 1 celery stalk, cut into ½ inch chunks 1 carrot, cut into ¼ inch thick rounds ¼ cup sliced pepperoncinis/banana peppers ¼ cup green olives, halved
Divide the vegetables into two pint-sized mason jars or 1 quart-sized sealable container. Pour the brining liquid over the vegetables and fill to the top. Add one clove of garlic to each container along with 1 sprig of rosemary. If using 1 quart-sized container, only add 1 sprig of rosemary to mixture. Refrigerate for 12 hours and enjoy for up to 10 days.
Brining Liquid: 1 tsp whole mustard seeds ½ tsp celery seeds ½ tsp red pepper flake ½ cup vinegar 1 cup water 2 tbsp sugar 1-2 sprigs rosemary 2 garlic cloves, smashed with the side of your knife Putting It All Together: Combine the vegetables into a bowl and set aside. In a small bowl, add the mustard seeds, celery seeds, red pepper flake, vinegar, water and sugar and stir to combine.
78 1 ingredient/3 ways
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