7 minute read
Explore the Wild Beauty of West Iceland
November in Iceland - who would do such thing? Well, nearly every travel blog writer that has declared this tiny island country one of the hot travel destinations of 2018 and that, in November, visitors have the best chance of seeing the elusive northern lights. Yes, that was a goal for this trip, but you may have already noted the absence of nighttime wonder in the photos here. This wasn’t my first exploration of Iceland, but on my previous trip, I had bypassed the ruggedly spectacular Snaefellsnes Peninsula of West Iceland, as I had an instinct that it deserved a concentrated effort. Blanketed by miles of lava fields and dominated by mountains, volcanoes and treacherous coastline, this small arm of Iceland is other-worldly and invigorating. It is no wonder that filmmakers have featured the land as the natural setting for Viking epics, the fantastical landscape of Game of Thrones, and the desolate future in sci-fi worlds like those of Prometheus and Oblivion. This place is at once stark and colorful; the landscape is a palette of greens, golds, and blacks that is both forbidding and enchanting.
story + photography by JD Merryweather
The mid-November darkness yields to sunrise around 10:30 a.m. and returns about six hours later, and I could feel each day getting shorter and the need to be efficient with my time. My journey began in Stykkisholmur, a fishing community and port town on the north side of the peninsula. A small but burgeoning cultural center with beautifully restored historic homes, Stykks (as it came to be called by me) is known for its sustainable tourism development and recently received a European Destination of Excellence award. I drove into town under the cover of late afternoon darkness during a cold, gusty storm which abused my car with wind, rain, snow, and what I am fairly certain was a shower of small rocks. After settling into a quaint Airbnb up the hill from the harbor, I awoke to find that my reward for the previous evening’s turbulence was a breathtaking blanket of snow covering the mountains surrounding Stykks - mountains that not only did I not realize were there, but that I had apparently crossed in the storm. I got an early start (10:30 early - sunrise) and searched out a place to photograph the majestic landscape before it was once again enshrouded by the next storm. It was still quite windy, but I crossed the harbor causeway and climbed a vertical trail up the basalt outcropping that dwarfs the town. Perched on top is a lighthouse, and here I was able to catch my images of the range with the town and the port in the foreground.
Needing both a place to thaw out and a hearty meal, I found my way to Narfeyrarstofa, a local restaurant that came highly recommended by the hand-written note on the fridge in my Airbnb. Run by an award winning Danish chef, it is known for fish soups, lamb stew, and a daily fresh catch just hours out of the sea. I started my lunch with a beautifully constructed salad of blueberries and red currants, mixed greens, seeds, nuts and vinaigrette, paired with a crisp white wine. As I eagerly awaited the main course, I realized what an international hot spot I was in. There were two groups of diners sharing the tiny establishment with me - a boisterous gathering of Italians and very fashionable table of Japanese. However, when I was presented with the catch of the day - grilled Ling Cod sitting on barley with roasted veggies and a carrot puree - all distractions ceased. The house-baked bread with Icelandic butter and artisanal salt rounded out an unexpectedly exceptional meal in Stykks. I was stuffed and ready for the next adventure.
Landbrotalaug, a natural geothermal pool, was my afternoon’s quest. Aside from the northern lights, THIS is the real reason to visit Iceland - soaking in one, or two, or a dozen of the country’s hundreds of thermal pools, or “hot pots” as they are locally known. Landbrotalaug is remote and hard to find, like needle-in-a-haystack hard. I found it by researching a few guide books, then following the instructions on a blog, satellite images of the landscape, and Google map coordinates.
Landbrotalaug is situated on an abandoned farm in a river valley, surrounded by lava fields and dormant volcanos. My rental car plowed through the mud and rutted roads to the unmarked trailhead. Rated at about 95 degrees Fahrenheit and maybe 36 x 42 inches in size, the pool could hold three people…if you were really friendly and didn't mind that there is no place to change into a bathing suit. Truly an amazing little gem in the middle of nowhere. After about an hour of soaking in the steamy water shielding me from the rain and wind, it was time to pull myself out of this hole in the surreal landscape, bundle up, and head back to town.
The next day I moved to a remote Airbnb on the southern coast between the town of Budir (home of the famous Black Church) and Arnarstapi, where I documented the jagged basalt coastline’s blow holes, cliffs and rock bridges. Gatklettur, the arched rock, and the surrounding area are remnants of ancient lava that pushed all the way into the sea. A geologist’s dream, the intricate flows, twists, and upheavals are maps to what must have been a furious show of nature’s force. Shooting in stormy, windy weather is always a challenge with expensive photography gear, but sometimes sacrifices must be made in the name of art! I was quite fortunate during my time on the cliffs as the sun made its first appearance of the trip, dropping between clouds for a brief 15 minutes of glory, creating beautiful filtered light, before disappearing again behind the wild, Icelandic weather. Still no northern lights.
My last day before heading back to the modern delights of Reykjavik, I sought out the new, sleek geothermal baths of Krauma. Built as a wellness center, the baths are fed by Deildartunguhver, the highest flowing hot spring in all of Europe. The ultra-modern spa is a sharp Scandinavian design featuring five tempered outdoor pools, saunas, a relaxation room, and restaurant featuring Icelandic cuisine. Wonderful wines and Icelandic beers are served poolside, allowing me to gaze out over a valley that was practically breathing with geothermal activity. As the sun set (at 4:00), the steam from the baths mingled with the steam rising from unseen fissures in the valley laid out before me. Krauma is the ideal way to wind down, warm up, and relax after several days of adventurous hiking and photography. This was a dramatically different “hot pot” experience than my time in the hole in the ground two days earlier. Both are quintessentially Icelandic, but I am glad I made the choice to end the journey at Krauma.
If my first visit to Iceland encouraged my return trip, the return trip has me positively hooked! West Iceland is less than a few hours from the capital city and has so much to offer the adventurous traveler. I never did see the northern lights, but somehow, I don’t feel I missed out. Besides, I know I will be back. While guided tours are available for most activities, I still prefer to take the backroads on my own agenda and will always encourage others to do the same! Marvel in the beautiful landscapes of this stunning Nordic country!
