TO WHAT EXTENT HAVE SUBCULTURES INFLUENCED FASHION? BY LYDIA JONES
OUIL501
This essay will be exploring the impact subculture has had on fashion and to the development of trends within fashion. Since the arrival of subculture in Britain fashion has been continuously adapted and altered to create new trends and styles. Each subcultural style is independent to it ideas. The terms refers to a selection of movements that are not within the mainstream, such as hip hop or graffiti. Subcultures have had a strong impact on fashion, Streetwear culture formed in the 70's through the skateboard and graffiti movement. A lot of subcultures have been developed into mass culture, like streetwear and has been mass produced for commercial purposes. Subcultures that formed from political upheaval were generated through the youth culture and its compliance to contradict the norm, to embrace something new and exciting. As fashion is a consistently changing from clothing design to taste, to define what is fashionable or on trend can be found in the following of contemporary arts form or set by professionals in the industry. Subcultures play an extensive role in the regeneration of fashion, The incorporation of elements applies to the consumers taste and trend forecasting. Fashion designers are attempting more than ever to follow the progression in mainstream culture, to comply to the urge for new and now. Trend forecasting has been a principle of fashion since Carlin International, a trend forecasting agency that began in Paris, founded by Fred Carlin (J.Lantz, the trendmakers 2006). Carlin International was the beginning, four agencies followed after "commonly referred to as the first ones"(J.Lantz, p18). Jenny Lantz discusses in the trendmakers (p18) the importance of fashion in cultural production in the nineteenth century, fashion began with modernity supporting the rising industry surrounding it. Through a time of "feudal society and its hierarchies were broken down"(p19) a divide between classes created new social roles. By way of this divide in classes Fashion established development. Fashion is something contemporary, of the moment that passes by, or reborn to fit within it's social and cultural surroundings. What causes changes within fashion? Lantz's discusses the uncontrollable desire for a new, 'neomania'. Some theorists suggest that "our subconscious sexual energy"(JLantz, p20) compels the consumer with a constant hunger for "the visually and fashionably new". Fashion is on a continuous pattern that reciprocates itself in line with the current environment and the social changes (p20). Today's society allows identity to not be confined to certain classes but is more debatable, individuality and difference can be expressed through an individual's fashion. Fashion is constantly changing, another thing that causes these changes is identity conflict "when identities are in flux". When social and cultural classes are put under pressure they are 'redefined'. A representation of this is the uprising against class and gender in the 70's, the punk style. Dick Hebdige's book 'subculture' analysis the social conflicts that lead to the flux in fashion that altered style completely, affecting the essential qualities of the disciplines surrounding it to form society. Subculture is the expressive reaction to social and political norms, it is a selection of movements not within the mainstream. "The teddy boys and mods and rockers, the skinheads and the punks"(D.Hebdige, Subculture, p2 2002) these groups were disregarded by society and deemed as immodest, at times they were seen as a threat to public society. On other occasions these groups were seen as rather tame and innocuous to society. The historical development of culture that passes over several European languages has led culture to become one of the "most complicated words in the English language"(W. Raymond, Keywords 1976, p87). Culture is now applied to specific concepts in a range of disciplines.
Williams discuss the early uses of Culture "was a noun of process: the tending of something, basically crops or animals" (W. Raymond, Keywords 1976, p87) Culture was used as a farming term encouraging natural growth. Culture developed into a deeper meaning through metaphor "the tending of natural growth was extended to process of human development"."a culture of their minds"(W. Raymond, Keywords 1976, p87). Williams goes on to highlight the linear progression of culture, the process of becoming civilized. Changes in culture occurred when people became accustomed to the idea of the metaphor. "Culture is a notoriously ambiguous concept"(D.Hebdige, Subculture, p6 2002) Hebdige highlights the development of the word 'culture' and its application by literates to raise awareness to controversial problems for public dispute. Hebdige considers Raymond Williams concepts of culture and the early theories that portray culture "the quality of life, the effects in human terms of mechanization, the division of labor and the creation of mass society"(D.Hebdige 2002). John Letche discusses culture as something of taste "it should not be a commodity or something that is merely useful, or functional, which contributes to physical survival"(J.Lechte. 2003. Key Contemporary Concepts). Kant explains the rules of culture in terms of class, the wealthy are presumed to have good taste for their contribution to society "middle class, by contrast, reveal their inferior class position partly by the 'bad' or 'vulgar' taste they exhibit".Some critics believed to have see, through the last decades of the twentieth century, a merge between high and popular culture. This blend of cultures was praised as Kant's ideas of a judgment of taste were soon seen to be elitist. Hebdige discusses this ideal of culture to be "an almost sacred function"(D.Hebdige 2002) The term culture was used to describe something elite, suited to an absurdly outdated process of the class system "represented culture as a standard of aesthetic excellence"(D.Hebdige 2002). This class system embodied a recognition for culture to be associated with 'aesthetic excellence' through the creative arts. Hebdige goes on to discuss the following literate's that struggled to define culture through "culture as a standard of excellence, culture as a whole way of life"(D.Hebdige, p 7 2002) Hebdige concluded that their portrayal of the 'working-class' was too biast. Culture is subjective to social trends that fit amongst everyday life. Where did subcultures originate from? The summer of 1976 was a revolution from the tragedies of the winter, "London parched and sweltered under luminous skies and the inevitable fog of exhaust fumes"(D.Hebdige, p23 2016). Hebdige illustrates the summer to be filled with ambitious and enthusiastic Brits transforming the streets of London in their beach attire. The excitement of the heatwave soon turned to devastation, leaving Britain in drought. A time of brutality followed the summer "the Notting Hill carnival, traditionally a paradigm of racial harmony, exploded into violence"(D.Hebdige, p24 2016). The Soweto dash opposed everything the Carnival stood for "Negro ingenuity and the resilience of ghetto culture"(D.Hebdige, p 25 2016). During this time of political upheaval punk made it's impression, combining a diverse range of styles. Lily Pearson explores in her article 'the dA-Zed guide to British subcultures' the subcultures that transformed Britain "subculture is in Britain's blood"(L.Pearson, the dazed guide to British culture 2016). The article discusses the subcultures that generated from political upheaval through the youth culture "from the grime kids spitting bars on Channel U to the casual showing off on the terraces and ravers of Madchester dancing all night"(L.Pearson 2016). Punk was inspired by an amalgamation of 'heterogeneous youth styles'. This implausible collective
established a place "in an equally eclectic clothing style"(D.Hebdige, p25 2002). It took inspiration from the rejection of all morals that formed in 'Glam rock', 'Northen soul' brought its 'cool' and mystery, It also took inspiration from the minimal aesthetic of American punk (p25). This "photogenic phenomenon known as punk" combined twist on the prime subcultures that formed after the war. Punk took a stand transforming their attire by incorporating safety pins, chains and 'bondage straps' which sure didn’t fail to create a diverse look that was intriguing yet revolting to some.
Saint Laurent Fall/Winter 2015-2016 show The Image above is from Saint Laurent winter show in 2015, captures the authentic style of the subcultural movement of punk. The show provided the runway with an essence of the dark and rebellious style from the 70's. There is a strong connection between the style created above by Saint Laurent and the aesthetic of the Punk movement. The design appears to have different components pieced together replicating the same do it yourself, appearance to fashion. Saint Laurent designs are not an adaptation of punk following the mainstream mimicking trend, this makes the collection appealing and symbolic, taking the intensity and boldness of punk and applying it to the designs. The piece could be envisioned In the surrounding of the 70's along side tartan, bondage gear, chains and dog collars.
Reggae formed Britain with it's own unique style and language "reggae tunes in to the slowness of the ganga"(D. Hebdige, p30 2012). Symbolizing the Journey from slavery, Reggae which is mimics this in the structure of its music. Reggae was extremely popular to dance to, people were also inspired by the Jamaican street style "khaki battle dress stenciled with the Caribbean legends DUB and HEAVY MANNERS, narrow 'sta-prest' trousers, black brogues and slip ons, even the pork pie hat"(D.Hebdige, p30 2002). Hebdige discusses the conflict between the practices of the African church and how they posed "symbolic threat to law and order"(D.Hebdige, p32 2012) to the Church, a better life was found in Rastafarianism which combined the "Black Africa and the white man's Bible" (p32). The immigration of West Indian to the UK after the second World War, this brought a new workforce and more importantly. "the introduction of Reggae, Patois and the style and swagger of the rude boys"(L.Pearson, the dazed guide to British culture 2016).Dating back to the early 60's there was records of Rastafarianism but it wasn’t until the introduction of the music that the Rasta's found place in Britain and the 'dread' culture began "Rastafari had become a 'style': an expressive combinations of 'locks', of Khaki camouflage and 'weed' which proclaimed unequivocally the alienation felt by many young black brittons"(D. Hebdige, p36 2012).
Tommy Hilfiger Spring 2016 The image above is another example of fashion takes it's inspiration from the subculture that created style and individuality. The use of Rasta colors within fashion has been predominant as
the colors are a symbol for the Rastafarian journey. The red embodies a sense a strength whilst the color green applies to the importance of the land, the yellow represents peace and hope. The reappearance of reggae colors within fashion mimic the beliefs of the Rasta's preserving the African culture. Tommy Hilfiger's collection has slight ties back to Rasta's origins, The mesh material of the dress accentuates the figure, representing the Rasta's respect to their own bodies. The casual style combined with beanie is also like the attire of rastafarians and is suited to the youth culture, its point of reference may be frowned upon by other. Punk, in today's fashion, represented the 'bad girl' image. Although the punk rocker and mohawk look are not unheard of in society modern fashion trends are borrowing from these design (E. Grace, Cult of couture 2016). The internet has had exceptional impact on the search for the new and now, excelling the process. "internet, globalization, urbanization and a stronger celebrity culture have all intensified mimetic behavior"(J.Lantz, p21) Celebrity culture which constructs the mainstream encourages consumers mimetic behavior."Trends do not emerge out of a vacuum: their packaging, communication, diffusion and interpretation are dependent on many"(J.Lantz, p50). Lantz discusses a range of professionals thoughts on incipient taste, all with expertise in the industry. Lantz explres sociologist 'Herbert Blumer' work, Blumer studied buyers in Paris during the sixties. A study following individual buyers selection of purchases were very alike, Bulmer came to the decision that the consumers attempted to "capture the proximate future"(p50). Fashion is brought together by cultural and political influences of the period. As fashion is a component of culture, subcultures appear to provide a clear indication of lifestyle choices, political dispute or individuality. Subculture enterpritates cultural elements that create particular forms of expression. There is a clear indication from a range of sources, analysis and, theorists that highlight the impact subculture has effectively changed fashion. It is clear to state that some subculture has had a larger impact on the fashion industry as they are more relatable or follow upcoming trends.
BIBLIOGRAPHY DICK HEBDIGE, SUBCULTURE, THE MEANING OF STYLE 2002. EMILY GRACE, CULT OF COUTURE: 7 DESIGNER INCOPERATING SUBCULTURE STLYE, 2016 http://www.rebelsmarket.com/blog/posts/cult-of-couture-7-designers-incorporating-subculturestyle JENNY LANTZ, THE TRENDMAKERS, BEHIND THE SCENES OF THE GLOBAL FASHION INDUSTRY, BLOOMSBURY 2016. JOHN LECHTE, KEY CONTEMPORARY CONCEPTS, SAGE PUBLICATIONS 2003 LILY PEARSON, THE DA-ZED GUIDE TO BRITISH SUBCULTURE 2016
http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/24544/1/the-da-zed-guide-to-british-subculture