Trendmap Report Sportswear 2018
LYDIA WARREN N0728408 I confirm that this work has gained ethical approval and that we have faithfully observed the terms of approval in the conduct of this project. Signed: ........................ Date: ..../..../........
CONTENTS PART 1 - ABOUT TRENDS INTRODUCTION 8 METHODOLOGY 11 ABOUT TRENDS 12 TREND FORECASTING MODELS 13 TRICKLE MODELS 15 TREND INFLUENCES 17
PART 2 - SPORTSWEAR 2018 SPORTSWEAR 2018 22 WHAT’S NEW FOR 2018 25 KEY DRIVERS 27 STREET STYLE 29
PART 3 - STYLING SHOOT SHOOT INSPIRATION 33 LOCATION 35 MODELS 37 SHOOT EVALUATION 38
PART 4 - EDITORIAL EDITORIAL 60
PART 5 - CONCLUSION CONCLUSION 73 BIBLIOGRAPHY 75 REFERENCES 77 ILLUSTRATIONS 79 APPENDIX 84
PART 1
TRENDS
The world of fashion is fast, constant, always evolving. Season upon season, new trends and crazes are being introduced, usually exposed first on the runway, and eventually making their way to the highstreets through trickling down through society. Fashion trends go through phases of popularity with consumers, and most trends are only popular for a limited amount of time, eventually going out of fashion. The art of trend forecasting is a pivotal process to the fashion industry, dictating where the fashion scene heads next and what looks will be ruling the runways. The exploration of trend forecasting has highlighted the importance that it plays in the fashion industry and how it shapes the way we shop. Research and analysis will identify the influence trends have on consumers, the role of the media in trend forecasting, and analysis into specific trends. Specific trends such as Sportswear have significantly grown and have had a significant impact in trends for Spring Summer 2018. The analysis of this trend will consider the conception of the trend and the development of that. This will cover the influence of the media, culture, and how the trend has developed in 2018, differing from the past of the trend.
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E. Brannon, 2015
METHODOLOGY Primary and secondary research was conducted in order to gain knowledge of the current trend landscape and how the sportswear trend fits into the trend environment. Primary research such as a questionnaire was created to gain an understanding of consumers and how receptive they are to the trend. To gain further understanding, secondary research was conducted via the use of reports and trend forecasting websites.
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ABOUT TRENDS “A trend can be emotional, intellectual and even spiritual. At its most basic, a trend can be defined as the directing in which something (and that something can be anything) tends to move and which has a consequential impact on the culture, society or business sector though which it moves.� (Raymond, M., 2010)
Trend forecasting takes into account a wide array of influences in order to predict the upcoming trends, for example reaching towards science, technology, economics, and travel. A combination of all of these influences allows forecasters to begin to start predictions. Over time, influences and idea become regular images being seen across multiple outlets, which begins to become more of a concept, which can be relayed into a fashion trend. Within the process of trend forecasting, there is importance in understanding the longevity of the trend which is being identified. The timing of a trend can be pivotal to its success and how well it is embraced. If a trend is well executed, there will be a large exposure of this across multiple platforms, both online and not. The use of the internet allows trends to immediately reach celebrities, bloggers and influencers, which often help the trends to trickle into mainstream society. Depending on the success of the trend, some will receive an over exposure in the media, meaning that consumers will be ready for the next trend.
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TREND FORECASTING MODELS Overtime, the development of trend forecasting models has allowed trend forecasters to understand trend mapping in a way that ensure for consistent development of trends. Forecasting models allow forecasters to consider the development of the trend and the path in which it will take depending on the success of the trend. The Diamond Shaped Trend Model, formulated by Henrik Vejlgaard allows trend forecasters a clear pathway when mapping trends. This model allows it to be possible to calculate the speed at which a trend will develop. Vejlgaard believes that the speed of a trend is also influenced by the town or city that the trend progression is measured in, as well as the social groups which it has been conducted from. It is clear that trend forecasting is a complicated practice, which takes into account factors such as social, economic and political trends and considers how they are influencing and changing the trend landscape.
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Henrik Vejlgaard, 2008
TRICKLE MODELS
When considering the trickle-down model, it is important to refer to the origins of the model. George Simmel (1904), a sociologist identified the idea of the change in fashion is dependent on the want to fit in and stand out. Economist Thomas Veblen (1899) considered the classes and how the difference in wealth is identified. He concluded that members of the leisure class display their wealth in two ways, either through conspicuous leisure and conspicuous consumption. The combination of both of these considerations formed the framework of the trickle-down theory. The theory identities a number of concepts. Firstly, the source of fashion ideas comes down to the designers who adhere to the wants of wealthy clients and their individual fashion taste. The theory considers the fashion leaders, who are the fashionable individual who act as models for new and upcoming trends and looks. The theory also considers the aspects affecting the fashion change; the direction, which travels downward from the elite classes to the class below and so on, the speed of change, which is regulated by the class below and how accepting they are of the trend, and the dynamics of the trend, which address the drive for differentiation and imitation of previous trends.
Haute Couture Luxury Fashion Bridge Brands Brand Diffusion Economy 15
Following the development of the trickle-down theory, the bubble up theory opposes this and offers an alternative perspective on the creation and direction of trends. The bubble up theory stems from designers and fashion influencers also being inspired by niche, smaller groups, therefore bubbling their ideas up from smaller influence groups. As it is also known as the ‘trickle up theory’ it suggests that those at the bottom of the diagram also influence those at the bottom. Influences such as street style or individuals can be a trigger for designers to launch a new trend, which, while still was designed by those at the top of the pyramid, is influenced by those at the bottom. Another take on the trickle up and
down models is the idea of the trickle across. This theory, instead of trends spreading up and down the hierarchical structure, it is suggested that trends in fact trickle across at all levels of the market simultaneously. Trickle across trends occur when a trend is able to be to be adapted for multiple price points and types of consumers. While the trickle-down, bubble up and trickle across theory are still prevalent in the trend forecasting landscape, it is becoming more and more difficult to predict the direction of trends, and how they will develop. The development of fashion and online media means that a trend can start anywhere, such as the mid-market and spread to economy and haute couture, but still without covering all areas.
“the trickle-down theory underscores the selfperpetuating cycle based on people’s basic human tendencies toward imitation and differentiation.” (E Brannon, 2015) 16
TREND INFLUENCERS When considering the influences on trends, aspects of influence come from various sources. Trends are fluid in their movement across political, social, cultural and technological landscapes. Influences such as bloggers and celebrities are key drivers in trends as they use their influence shared via social media which means that a large demographic of people are exposed to a look that quickly becomes a trend if it is adopted by the consumer. Aspects such as politics can easily influence fashion and trend movements. An example of this was Mexican designer Raul Soils showcasing a look on the runway with the text “f*ck your wall�, which is a direct political remark towards Trump. In addition, aspects such as history also influence the trends we see on the high street and the runway, considering trends such as 70s and 80s. Key influencers of the time are still current today, maybe in a different way to their impact at the time but still in a way that influences trends. As mentioned in the trickle up and down models, one of the key influences for trends is the designer end of the fashion hierarchy, which eventually influences the more mass-market landscape. A key point concluded from this is the idea that something that trend influences can exist on the same level, or on other levels of the hierarchy, with trends being heavily influenced from the current market landscape.
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PART 2
SPORTSWEAR SS18
SPORTSWEAR Sportswear as a trend is something which the fashion landscape has seen over many seasons and done in many different ways by various different designers and retailers. However, for sportswear in spring summer 2018, there has been a more retro approach to sportswear, combining and experimenting with the difference in masculine and feminine silhouettes. There has been an increase in designers considering sportswear inspired fastening, such as Prada. Alongside this, there is more advancement to the
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SPRING/SUMMER 2018
reignition of retro nostalgic brands such as Adidas and Fila. Colour is an important factor for the sportswear trend in 2018, with Fenty x Puma showcasing a large amount of bright, contrasting colours which allow for the ideas of fun and excitement to be provoked from the trend. There has also been the consideration of mixing femininity and masculinity by mixing sportswear with florals to create a contrasting look. There is a very clear link to the 80s and 90s in terms of track pants and shell suit recreations visible on the runway.
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CHUNKY TRAINERS MOTORSPORT NOSTALGIC BRANDS
Taking both the runway and the high street by storm, chunky “dad� tRainers have become a staple in the sportswear trend, with designers such as Yeezy, Fila and Balenciaga igniting the trend. This specific area of the sportswear trend is something that has quickly trickled down onto the high street, with shops such as Topshop, River Island and Ego recreating their versions of the trend.
A more specific element of the trend that has been visible on the runway is the theme of motorsport. Designers such as Tommy Hilfiger, Versace and Off-White have considered the use of bold colours mixed with a heavy synthetic leather fabric to recreate the geometric shapes and silhouettes seen in motorsport. To contrast this, items have been paired with a high heel to add an air of femininity.
Working with high end brands such as Fendi, Fila launched a collection alongside Fendi, allowing Fendi to appropriate the recognisable Fila logo, exploring the idea of sportswear in high fashion, with the use of sweatshirts paired with skirts. This has revamped the way that Fila appear, while still having a strong stake hold in the sportswear trend on the high street.
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WHAT’S NEW FOR 2018
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KEY DRIVERS OF SPORTSWEAR
When considering the size of the trend and how it has been adopted by consumers, one of the key drivers is Instagram. Instagram is a great platform for discovering trends and accounts such as ‘Hypebeast’ circulate upcoming trends and designers. Through this, Instagram is able to drive trends in terms of creating awareness, with tools such as the explore page sharing similar content that users have looked at. The use of hashtags allows the users to find posts relate to the post they are looking for, such as #motorsportstyle which has been searched for here. Similar to this, the use of celebrity as a key driver of the trend is significantintoday’sculturewherecelebritiesarefollowedreligiously. An example of this would be Kim Kardashian seen sporting Kanye West’s Yeezy collection, specifically cycling shorts. This is a minor element of the sportswear trend which has now trickled down to the highstreets and is sold all over websites such as Pretty Little Thing and Missguided. Due to the substantial influence which celebrities have on today’s consumers, it only took an image of a celebrity in a specific style of clothing for it to be adopted by the mass market. Finally, another key driver in the sportswear trend is the development of fitness and athleisure seen in the market. With the rise of fitness bloggers and Instagrammers, this has developed into the sportswear trend which it is today.
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STREET STYLE
As sportswear is a trend adopted by those interested in fashion and a younger age demographic, there were many individuals who adopted the trend on the highstreets. These two individuals were willing to have their photos taken and displayed. Callum, has adopted the street style in the form of chunky Nike trainers, paired with a pair of statement Kappa joggers and a simple sweatshirt. Ella has chosen to adopt the sportswear trend through a branded Fila t-shirt dress paired with pink chunky trainers. It is clear from these two individuals that sportswear can be worn and interpreted in different ways in order to suit the individuals style.
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PART 3
STYLING SHOOT
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STYLING SHOOT INSPIRATION
LOCATION
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When considering the location of the shoot, it was important that the location reflected the theme of the shoot and all fitted with the models, the clothing, and the general theme. The initial idea was to use sports facilities to create the image styling that we wanted. The main thing that we wanted to source was stadium chairs featured in the photos to the left. We felt that these would give the images the feel that we wanted. However, we unfortunately could not source these meaning that we had to compromise on location. We were fortunate to be allowed to shoot at the University of Nottingham sports facilities, which while we’re not out first choice of location, actually turned out to really suit the look we were aiming for in our shoot.
MODELS
The model selection was an important process in order to ensure that the models suited the styling and fitted with the shoot. In order to maximise the looks captured in the shoot, we decided to cast a male model and a female model. Our chosen models were Mona Zraiqat and James Ho. Mona and James suited the aesthetic of our shoot and we felt like they were able to wear the clothes in the correct way that reflected our trend. This was a key aspect of our shoot that was vital that we casted the correct looking models to represent our trend and the types of people who would wear the trend by choice.
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SHOOT EVALUATION
In evaluation of the shoot, it is clear from the images that it was a successful shoot. Over 200 images were taken which allowed it to be easy when selecting the best images. Natural roles were adopted by all members of the group allowing the shooting period to run smoothly. Gloria Yasein naturally took lead of the shoot, with Max Youd assisting as a stylist. Dominique Yearby was coordinator of scenes and looks, with Mona Zraiqat as a model, and myself as photographer. While these roles were not specifically allocated, the natural adoption of the roles ensured that every individual had a key part to play.
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PART 4
EDITORIAL
James Ho 60
As Spring Summer approaches, it’s time to drop the heels, and scrap the suit, because sportswear is the new smart wear. This season, we’re all about comfort and style, combining the two for an all new smart wear look. Why not trying an all-black combo to add the sophisticated factor to your outfit, while keeping edgy and comfortable in your sportswear combo?
SPORTSWEAR is the new SMARTWEAR
Mona wear Puma Sportsbra £35.00 James wears Off White x Nike Black Campus Tee, £98.00 and Kappa Side Stripe Track Pants, £49.00.
Time to add a bit of girly to that edgy sportswear look? Mona is sporting a lemon yellow tennis skirt to add a feminine touch, with a chunky pair of trainers and cute cami top. Perfect for day time date or add a pair of cat eye glasses, and its just right for the evening.
Mona wears Treoour High Waisted Pleated Skirt, £13.00, with a Missguided cami top, £7.00, and Sketchers D’Lites, £59.00, topped off with ASOS Cat Eye Sunglasses, £14.00.
James is wearing adidas Originals Retro Germany Football Jersey In White CE2343, £70.00, with Adidas 3 stripe joggers, £35.00, and Adidas Yeezy 500, £450.00.
For a more colourful look, James is sporting a bright adidas Originals Retro Germany Football Jersey In White CE2343, paired with simple adidas joggers. Finishing off the look, a chunky pair of Yeezy’s has been added to complete that sportswear look. This oversized top is paired well with the oversized chunky trainers, providing maximum comfort and style. The simplicity of the adidas side stripe joggers allows the statement items in the look to be the shoes and the top. We’re living for this bold look, love it as much as we do?
PART 5
CONCLUSION
In conclusion of all research and understanding and experimentation of the trend, it is clear that the sportswear trend will be around for a lot longer yet. Like the trend had developed and evolved into what it is today, there is constantly room for development with new collaborations and new designers bringing fresh ideas to the runway, with room for experimentation with textures and fabrics used to create sportswear looks. The development of the trend however does depend on the receptiveness of the consumers. Like all other trends, the developments in sportswear will be picked up and taken on board by consumers are different entry levels in the market and the influence. With the continued expansion of technology and social media, evolutions in the trend will be reflect in social media usage and shared and influenced by the social media stars.
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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Fenty x Puma “Mayowa Nicholas”, (2018) accessed on 17/05/18, available at https:// fashionvoyeur.co.uk/wpcontent/uploads/2018/04/ rihanna-fenty-pumaspring-2018-19.jpg
Fenty x Puma, (2018) “Fenty x Puma Collection 2018”, accessed on 20/05/18, available at https://www.vogue.com/ fashion-shows/spring-2018-ready-towear/fenty-puma Unknown, (u.d.), accessed on 21/05/18, available at https:// www.heart2art.gr/singlepost/2018/04/05/%CE%9F%CE%99-%CE %A4%CE%91%CE%A3%CE%95%CE%9 9%CE%A3-%CE%A4%CE%97%CE%A3-
Defiance, “Diadora SS18”, (2018) accessed on 17/05/18, available at https://www. rough-online.co.uk/ site/5c5522b8/diadora-powered-by-defiance-ss-20-18-adcampaign?preview=true
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Warren, L., 2018, “Screenshot of chunky trainer instagram 2”, available via personal images
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Briec, S., (2014) Grazia, accessed on 25/05/18, available at https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/463800461620785998/
Warren, L., 2018, “Street style image 4”, available via personal images 80
Parlak, K., (2015) Elle Turkey, accessed on 25/05/18, available at https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/463800461620786039/
Unkown, (u.d.) accessed on 25/05/18, available at https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/486036984759440371/
Unkown, (u.d.) accessed on 25/05/18, https://www.pinterest. co.uk/pin/463800461620785993/
Unkown, (u.d.) accessed on 25/05/18, available at https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/298222806548030076/
Unkown, (u.d.) accessed on 25/05/18, available at https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/463800461620786004/
Unkown, (u.d.) accessed on 25/05/18, available at https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/132645151502616253/ Unkown, (u.d.) accessed on 25/05/18, available at https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/499547783653143038/
Briec, S., (2014) Grazia, accessed on 25/05/18, available at https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/463800461620785894/
Unkown, (u.d.) accessed on 25/05/18, available at https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/387872586641746033/
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Warren, L., 2018, “Side profile chairs”, available via personal images
Warren, L., 2018, “James and Mona benches”, available via personal images
Warren, L., 2018, “James standing”, available via personal images
Warren, L., 2018, “James and Mona laying”, available via personal images Warren, L., 2018, “James and Mona sitting”, available via personal images
Warren, L., 2018, “James sitting”, available via personal images
Warren, L., 2018, “Mona laying”, available via personal images
Warren, L., 2018, “James walking”, available via personal images
Warren, L., 2018, “Mona standing”, available via personal images
Warren, L., 2018, “James sitting back view”, available via personal images
Warren, L., 2018, “James sitting front view”, available via personal images
Warren, L., 2018, “James sitting chairs”, available via personal images
Warren, L., 2018, “James running”, available via personal images
Warren, L., 2018, “James high up view”, available via personal images Warren, L., 2018, “James running 2”, available via personal images
Warren, L., 2018, “James high up shot”, available via personal images
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Warren, L., 2018, “James and Mona net”, available via personal images Warren, L., 2018, “James and Mona net 2”, available via personal images Warren, L., 2018, “Mona sitting green chairs”, available via personal images Warren, L., 2018, “Mona sitting green chairs 2”, available via personal images Warren, L., 2018, “Bench close up”, available via personal images Warren, L., 2018, “James sitting close up”, available via personal images Warren, L., 2018, “James sitting foot shot”, available via personal images
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APPENDIX
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