With The Flow

With The Flow Seeking the Spirit of the Lower Zambezi

Writer: Kelsea Lee Photography: Time + Tide

From the first sight of the Lower Zambezi through the small window of a Cessna, the importance of rivers to this region is undeniable. Bands of steely grey water wind languidly between grassy banks dotted with thick groves of trees. Hidden just beneath the surface, braided banks of sand provide refuge for hippos, their rounded backs clustered together. Flocks of brilliant white egrets fly over the river, evoking a land before time and inviting you in to discover and explore. A safari through the Lower Zambezi is more than a series of game drives; it is an adventure that spans a variety of ways of exploration. Yes, it is a game drive with lions and leopards, but it is also a keeneyed walking safari in search of birds, a boat cruise with fishing rod in hand, and a tranquil paddle past a family of thirsty elephants. Of all these activities, none better encompasses the spirit of the Lower Zambezi than a canoeing safari.

A canoeing safari blends the up-close encounters with large animals like elephants and buffalo, characteristic of a game drive, with the unobtrusive nature of a walking safari when, thanks to your near silence, the wildlife is not bothered by your presence. Without the noise and smells that come with a game-drive vehicle, a captivating new level of interaction comes about between man and animal. It no longer feels like one party simply observing the other; but rather two beings sharing a moment in time, where both are relaxed and mutually curious.

From the safety of the canoe, you can drift past elephants as they dip their trunks into the river and let loose a deluge of water into their mouths. You can glide past buffalo as they rest on the grassy banks and observe herds of waterbuck as they graze quietly on tender shoots. Even the herons tiptoeing through the reeds and the kingfishers perched attentively on low-hanging

branches are not concerned that you are there, too.

From the bow of your canoe, you can join an age-old tradition of scanning the banks for the tell-tale signs of life hidden amidst the foliage. Birdwatchers will rejoice in the sheer abundance and diversity of avian species that can be found in the Lower Zambezi—there are over 500. You can watch as African skimmers glide mere centimetres off the surface and fish eagles snatch up a silvery bream with a splash. In the dry riverbanks, you can study a grid of small holes, waiting for the colourful heads of bee-eaters to poke out before they burst forth in a flurry of vibrant plumage, pursuing the insects hovering in the golden light.

At a time when travellers crave authenticity and genuine connections with the world around them, a canoeing safari through the Lower Zambezi joins you to a long line of people who have explored these riverbanks using nothing but the power of their own paddles. Before vehicles ever made their way to this remote corner of the world, boats were an essential part of the traditional lifestyle. With each stroke through the olive-green waters, you come a little closer to understanding the soul the of the Lower Zambezi, a soul shared by countless lives over thousands of years. No safari experience in the Lower Zambezi would be complete without taking to the water with a paddle in your hand. As a stand-alone activity and as a component in an overall safari experience, canoeing is a wonderful way to gain a deeper understanding and appreciation of this spectacular land. So, clear your mind, awaken your soul…and don’t forget your camera and binoculars!