Ingwe Pan—Mana Pools National Park

WRITER: FLO COUGHLAN PHOTOGRAPHY: FLO COUGHLAN

few years ago, Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority decided that it would put out to auction a few inland pans in Mana Pools National Park. By doing so they hoped to increase much needed revenue without adding to the traffic on the flood plain. A further bonus was a source of water for animals throughout the dry season when these pans historically dried up, and also to provide a human presence which assisted in anti-poaching efforts.

Ingwe Pan Camp is the product of this process. Machaba Safaris, which already operate camps in Hwange National Park, won the bid and decided to keep to their successful model of authentic and eco-friendly safari camps that they began in Botswana in 2012.

The camp, which is a 20-minute drive from Mana’s main airstrip and less than a 30-minute game drive from the river and flood plain, was built in the winter of 2019 and opened on 1 May 2020. With just eight twin/double tents, it caters for a

maximum of 16 guests at any one time. The large airy tents, on ground level eco-friendly composite decks, are situated in a semi-circle along the southern border of the pan, where ancient jackalberry (Diospyros mespiliformis), also known as African ebony, and nyala trees or nyala berry trees (Xanthocercis zambesiaca) offer shady aspects. All tents overlook the pan, allowing for early morning and evening moments of solitude, just metres from the water’s edge. The main lounge, which offers two seating areas, plus a tea/coffee corner and small bar, is under canvas while the communal dining area is outdoors, under the shade of a massive fig tree. Dinner under the stars and fireside chats are standard order after a day filled with bush activities.

All tents are en suite with both indoor and outdoor showers; indoors for the cooler nights and outdoors for the magical starlit evenings of late winter and early summer. Double bathroom vanities and ample space also make for a refreshing experience after a morning’s walk.

The camp is solar powered and backed up by a generator if ever necessary. Lighting is minimal but ample and provides for just the right ambience at the pan. Whilst hairdryers and airconditioning are not part of the system, overhead fans, bedside lamps and plug points for charging purposes are. Wi-Fi is available at designated points but is not encouraged in communal areas to allow guests to experience being totally off the grid and immersed in nature; which is after all what going on safari is all about. As with all safaris conducted by Machaba, guiding is of the highest order. Mana is about walking, after all. Whether it is tracking the big cats and wild dogs or wandering quietly birding through the woodlands, Mana has always been about the wide open spaces and the relaxed moods of the wildlife that this area affords. Drives are on offer in the afternoons or in the mornings for those who do not wish to leave the vehicle, but it would be sad to miss a walk with Siraaj Gardner, the resident professional guide. His fresh enthusiasm for tracking and his interest in everything from ants to antelope, and birds to baobabs, will keep you inspired between stops for tea and snack breaks under a shady tree. Young enough to be filled with energy, but experienced enough to effect things with due consideration to the environment and your individual requests, he, together with his fiancée Caitlin Wetzlar, who manages Ingwe Pan Camp, will ensure that your safari at Ingwe won’t be your last one there.

After a day’s tracking, birding or just gentle exploring, you will return to camp for Ingwe’s very personalised hosting and the pan’s unique sundowner entertainment. Will it be an early leopard, a late-home small pack of wild dogs or an on-the-move herd of buffalo coming down to drink? Or will it be the resident little duiker and his mate?

And finally, elephants bathing, lions roaring and owls hooting will be music to your ears as you sit down to a delicious three-course meal served under the stars. See you there soon! ■