Cool at the Pool

WRITER: ASTRID STEINBRECHER-RAITMAYR PHOTOGRAPHY: ASTRID STEINBRECHER-RAITMAYR

here is nothing like a beautiful sunset! But sitting at a waterhole, with a G&T in hand, watching approximately 100 elephants approaching from all directions makes you believe you are the luckiest person alive. Hwange National Park, covering an area of 14,651 square kilometres, is home to over 100 species of mammals—including the ‘Big Five’ and wild dogs—and over 400 species of birds. The park, situated in the western part of the country, is the largest protected area of Zimbabwe and borders the Kalahari Desert in Botswana. This park is especially known as a paradise for pachyderms—up to 50,000 elephants inhabit the area during the dry winter months. For this reason, my daughter Constanze and I flew to Victoria Falls because we wanted to see these incredible creatures.

A driver picks us up from the airport and drops us off at an intersection in the middle of the bush where a safari vehicle from Machaba Safaris is waiting for us. Makhosi ‘Mak’ Ncube, camp manager at Deteema Springs Camp and also our

guide for the next few days, greets us with a warm ‘Hello ladies and welcome to Hwange National Park.’ Inside the vehicle we do not only find delicious lunch packages, but also water bottles with our names written on them. And off we go, along one of those famous red sand paths we love so much.

To our left and right the forest shines in its most beautiful autumn colours beneath a lightening blue sky. ‘I’ve heard you want to see a lot of elephants,’ Mak says. We reply with an emphatic ‘Yes.’ We get along straight away and know we’ve found the perfect guide; Mak is an elephant professional. But he does not make it easy for us and starts with a little quiz, asking if we know how old elephants can get to (60–70 years), what height (up to 3.5 metres) and weight (up to six tons).

‘Did you know that elephants are more similar in their cognitive perception than we would assume them to be?’ questions Mak. When we answer with a confused ‘No,’ he continues, ‘Small children, for example, point their fingers at things. Elephants, in this instance, would immediately know what this small human is pointing towards. Surprisingly, they know this without any training. Like us humans, they are also very keen on family and even comfort each other in a state of sadness.’ We listen attentively, amazed, and also learn that the animal’s trunk, which is equipped with over 60,000 muscles, is put to use at a very early stage after birth. With this distinctive feature, these giants, that have been around for over 55 million years, breathe, smell, trumpet and also grab things, especially food. ‘They do not just randomly throw sand, hay, straw or mud at each other afterwards,’ Mak adds with a laugh and explains to us, ‘This serves to protect the animals’ sensitive skin from insects.’ From an anatomical point of view, elephants are not that different from humans. For example, elephants are able to maintain their balance even in difficult situations and are very agile. In addition, elephants have a better memory than humans. Why is this? Mak explains that it is because elephants depend on surviving in the wild. ‘These factors especially make their distinct capability of remembering so necessary; on the one hand because of their social structure, which is rather unusual in the animal kingdom. On the other hand, they are able to remember ancient routes through the bush, which they follow on an annual basis in search of food and water supplies.’

THE GREY COMMUNICATION GENIUSES

‘In contrast to us humans, elephants do not rely on their eyes,’ our guide explains to us; he is in contact with the pachyderms on a daily basis. Equipped with a complex sound system, which includes sounds within an extreme infrasound range, these animals can communicate with each other over several kilometres and even recognise each other. However, humans are unable to comprehend these low-frequency sounds. But also the tail, trunk, ears and feet belong to the communication system of the grey giants. Elephants scan their surroundings with their tail— this is how they measure respective distances to other group members and their immediate surroundings. Their ears are primarily used for cooling, but also to express excitement and joy. With their trunk, they do not only smell and pick up food and other items. The trunk is especially used for detection of other elephants, as they can sense what their colleague has eaten, and even determine how it felt. Lastly, their feet enable them to notice alarm signals, as they can feel the vibrations from other herds.

THE MAGIC OF THE GOLDEN HOUR

Going on safari in Africa is truly a life-changing and educational adventure—maybe like attending school or university, but much better. While we are sitting in the safari vehicle

and enjoying the luxury of having nothing else to do except observe all the amazing animals and impressive nature, Mak passionately tells us almost everything there is to know about the wild animals of his homeland. These ‘schooling days’ are only interrupted by delicious bush picnics at unusual places before returning to the camp, just in time for the sunset, when you can revisit the day with a G&T and exchange your newly gained knowledge with other travellers. The terraces of some of the tents at Machaba Safaris’ Deteema Springs Camp, which opened in the spring of 2019, are located above a waterhole. From this box seat you have an astonishing view of the elephants and can even watch them drink and splash around. Yet, that is not all. On one of the following evenings we were informed that we will go directly into the spring, up close with the grey giants. Mak carries a rifle, just in case of an emergency. From previous trips I am aware that the rifle only carries one shot. I start to wonder why and receive an unpredictable answer from a smirking Mak, ‘It’s just for you if you try to run away.’ So far so good and we start our approach, with Mak in the front, guests in the middle, and at the end of the line another guide is watching the surroundings. Slowly and obviously very diligently we get deeper and deeper into the spring. And there they are, right in front of us—not quiet, but certainly majestic. Provided there is an appropriate distance kept between them and us, these wonderful prehistoric creatures do not let us bother them while fulfilling their evening ritual of bathing and drinking. What an unforgettable experience.

FURTHER INTO THE LAND OF THE ELEPHANTS

Unfortunately, it is time to say ‘Goodbye’ the next day and a small ‘plane takes us to the other side of Hwange National Park, where Verney’s Camp is located. There is no spring here but instead a huge waterhole and each tent is arranged in such a way that every guest has an exceptional view of it. We do not know what the day promises, but at around 5pm ranger Trust gets more and more excited and tells us, ‘We are now looking to access a nice place at the waterhole.’ Armchairs are unfolded, a small bar is set up, the first drinks and snacks are served and more and more guests assemble. Elephants are casually approaching from all directions; we can already see them and have the best seats in the house. At first, we only perceive them as grey shadows due to the low stage of the sun. And as they come closer into the light, they almost look golden. Ten elephants, then twenty, then fifty—and at some point you cannot even count them anymore. Regardless of bulls, cows, babies—some of them are only a few days old and therefore still clumsily stumbling around between the legs of their bigger family members—the entire range is represented. Young bulls show off their strength, while elephant mothers ensure that their offspring does not trip over and fall into the water. We, on the other hand, enjoy our drinks as well as the magnificent natural spectacle that is happening right in front of us. There is only one thing we are absolutely certain about—we will be back soon. ■

TRUE TO THE PLANET AND HER PEOPLE

Machaba is the Setswana name for the sycamore fig tree whose fruit attracts animals from afar. The people from Machaba Safaris know that it is not only the tree and its animals that need their protection, which is why they lend their support to the fragile local communities whose people have lived in these remote regions for centuries. It is also why Machaba attracts like-minded explorers from all over the globe to share in the joy that ethical eco-tourism has to offer.

ICONIC DESTINATIONS

Machaba Safaris operate in Botswana and Zimbabwe, with locations in prime safari destinations including the Okavango Delta, Chobe National Park and Hwange National Park. While each site has its own specific charm, the Machaba standard of excellence is consistent. www.machabasafaris.com