Remote & Wild

from Travel & Leisure Zambia & Zimbabwe Jan - Aug 2022

Safari Stories

REMOTE AND WILD:

exploring North Luangwa’s new self-drive circuit [ WRITER / PHOTO: Mana Meadows ]

In late 2021, the North Luangwa Conservation Programme launched its first tourism circuit – a self-drive loop that brings together some of North Luangwa National Park’s finest undiscovered northern areas, opening up parts of the park that were previously inaccessible.

It was still early in the morning: the moon was so bright that it seemed just a shade darker than twilight. A sharp snort had woken me. Half asleep, but somehow also sharply alert, I sat up, mind scrambling … Buffalo? Hippo? Lion?! Then, I heard the swift soft footsteps of elephants. Aware that tents in this part of the park would be relatively new to them, I froze and watched with a mixture of reverence and primal tension as three grey ghosts walked by in a hushed single file, just fifteen meters from my tent: heads high, steps high, a cautious eye on these strange human homes freshly sprung in their domain.

Earlier that night we’d heard lion roars in the distance and, sometime later, the sawing cough of a leopard, followed by the unnerving screams of terrified baboons, presumably in combat with said leopard. We were at Mushika, a campsite on the brand new “Chimana Loop”, and it was night one of a camping trip I have always hoped would come to pass.

The launch of the four campsites (three on the eastern Chimana Loop and one at Lufila Falls) marks the first time in its near 50-year history that self-drive campsites have opened in North Luangwa National Park. Recent infrastructural funding has allowed park management to build new roads for improved access for park activities and, excitingly, for local tourism. Up until now, North Luangwa’s tourism has primarily catered to a mostly international market, consisting of a handful of simple but high-end bush-camps on the iconic Mwaleshi River, which cuts the park centrally from west to east and which, on the valley floor, is wide, sleepy, and peppered with wildlife.

But this loop celebrates the Luangwa River: one of Africa’s longest free-flowing rivers, and the park’s namesake and eastern boundary. It also celebrates the Mwaleshi River in its faster-flowing form as it emerges from the western Muchinga escarpment; and introduces the beautiful but little-known Lufila River. Additionally, the circuit includes Samala and Ituba community camps outside the park (on its western and eastern boundaries), creating a sense of ownership and enterprise around local community-based tourism.

North Luangwa National Park is known for being remote and untouched. This new route honors the reputation: visitors can experience the wonderful breadth and depth of eastern and northern North Luangwa without the crowds, through well-spaced campsites that have been carefully planned to avoid ecosystem interference.

CHIMANA LOOP

The Chimana loop boasts some of the area’s most diverse and beautiful habitats and offers rich game-viewing opportunities. Mushika campsite (3.5 hours east through the park from Samala Camp near the park’s main entrance) lies in open cathedral mopane punctuated with tamarind trees, alongside a deep channel of the Luangwa. It offers sweeping river views, and overlooks a prime drinking access point. Kudu, impala, waterbuck, zebra, warthog, puku, monkeys, baboons and a wide array of avian visitors kept up a regular stream of wildlife traffic all day – with a dawn visit by a herd of frolicking Cookson’s wildebeest (endemic to Luangwa) a special delight.

Crowned cranes and guineafowls ruled the roost, while flocks of Lillian’s lovebirds and the ubiquitous Meves’ starlings frequently visited the sand island in front of us. Here the river view is at its best: the restful Luangwa doubles back on itself; two slices of gun-metal grey, streaked with golds and yellows, steel blues and washed out khaki greens.

An hour’s drive further north along the Luangwa introduced us to Muzungwe campsite – an enchanting little nook nestled between two lagoons. Here kudu and elephant hovered shyly across the water, a malachite kingfisher preened, a grey heron muttered, and cattle egrets moved like pale moths across the watery patchwork of jade and emerald greens. This is prime elephant and hippo territory, so we paid extra attention to our surroundings.

On one early morning game drive, two shy lion lovers melted into the dewy cathedral mopane – the sun dancing off their retreating rumps. We saw tracks of all the big stuff: lion, leopard, hyena, painted dog, and steaming evidence of a recent massive buffalo herd. En route to Nkholo campsite, we found more than a hundred hippos sun-basking in the shrinking Luangwa below us. We sat and watched them for hours, our stillness rewarded when waterbuck and four elephant bulls came to drink.

Nkholo campsite, a two-hour meandering game drive from Muzungwe, is ensconced in the generous shade of African ebony trees, near a wide beach overlooking the Luangwa. We wound our way around somnolent lagoons, where bushbuck tiptoed in the riverine vegetation, sleepy-eyed pukus regarded us with surprise, and warthogs scuffled for delicacies in the hard black-cotton soil. Nkholo was just four kilometres from the charming Lufila River, which was wide and sandy, fringed with delicate waterberry trees; and with very recent lion tracks all around.

LUFILA FALLS CAMPSITE

Lufila Falls campsite is on the Lufila River, which marks the northern park boundary. Overcome by curiosity to see more of the northern park, and admittedly, as much of the Lufila River as we could, from Nkholo we opted for the long way around – tackling a long and testing drive north up the Luangwa, and then west along the Lufila. Fallen trees, tsetse flies, punctures and sweltering mopane scrub in October heat melted into obscurity once we reached the clear-flowing waters of the Lufila. We explored its verdant riverbanks, serenaded by bird song and tinkling rapids, and surprised a hippo family in the deep pool below the main falls. After cooling down in shallow rock pools (far away from the hippos!), we camped on the river’s edge below a rocky outcrop dotted with Euphorbia candelabras. The gentle rapids and trilling river frogs sang a new nighttime song as the camp fire flames danced and revealed the ancient rock formations around us. We toasted the last of our cold drinks, ate the last of our wilting cheese, and began planning our return trip.

Know before you go: There are a few routes to Lufila Falls campsite – some easier than others, so inquire when booking. With some steep gullies to cross and the odd elephant-induced fallen tree blocking the road, park management encourages you to do the Nkholo – Lufila leg with a minimum of two highclearance 4x4 vehicles (in case of a breakdown). For all routes you must carry an axe, an off-road recovery kit (winch, high-lift jack, sand ladders) and a GPS. NLCP can assist with mechanical breakdowns in emergencies but the more remote parts of the route are best suited for experienced 4x4 drivers with appropriate equipment.

Combine your trip WITH A VISIT TO ITUBA OR SAMALA COMMUNITY-RUN TENTED CAMPS

Start your “loop” at either one of the very reasonably priced community-co-ownedand-run accommodation options bordering the park. NLCP has partnered with local Community Resource Boards to promote enterprise opportunities around local tourism. Each community camp has four en suite, fully equipped, furnished tents, a dining area, fridge/freezer and braai stands. Campsites are also available.

ITUBA CAMP (eastern park boundary on the Luangwa River) is a wildlife destination in its own right. This newly revamped and renamed camp replaces the old Chifunda Camp, which had fallen into disrepair. It has a prime location in one of the wildest areas of the North Luangwa ecosystem. A stay here is a springboard to explore more of the Chimana Loop and North Luangwa National Park, or an easy stop off en route to / from South Luangwa. SAMALA CAMP (western park boundary on the upper Mwaleshi River) is ideal after a long day’s travel and open throughout the year. Great for birding, beautiful river views (swimming is possible) with access to Lufila and Kapamba waterfalls, the Lufila campsites and the Luswa Valley.