Family Friendly Travel

[WRITER / PHOTO : Sarah Kerr ] FAMILY FRIENDLY Travel

I feel my shoulders relax the moment we step onto our luxurious transfer boat. Around us, the wide, blue Zambezi sparkles in the sunshine of a perfect day. My husband and I relax onto the leather seats and I can feel my son’s excitement at being on a boat.

We make our way upriver toward Old Drift Lodge, enjoying the gentle breeze and views of the islands and ilala palm-dotted banks as we search for animals. The lodge is in the wildlife enclave of Zambezi National Park, just upstream from Victoria Falls. It is an ideal retreat for families, which is an unusual point of difference in the safari world.

A mere 15 minutes later, we round a large bend in the wide river and catch our first glimpse of the lodge.

The 14 tented riverside suites are strung along a broad stretch of the Zambezi. Each of them is carefully placed so that they merge harmoniously with the riverine forest, their cream canvas peaks nestled amongst the mangosteen and bird plums. I know we are just seven kilometres from the town of Victoria Falls, but I feel a world away as the sound of a hippo laughing reverberates across the water.

We step off the boat and camp managers Brad and Annie welcome us with broad smiles, cold drinks, and refreshing towels. After a short introduction, they ask what we would like to do next, and we choose to relax in the room before lunch. We make our way along the elevated boardwalks that connect the suites and as I open the door to our family unit, the cool air of an air conditioner greets me as I step inside and take in our rooms.

Constructed from pale canvas walls, the suite is outfitted with elegant, contemporary decor and art. Three large sliding glass doors to the adjoining deck bring the magnificent views inside and flood the room with light. The high ceilings feature wrought iron chandeliers, a reminder of the past, set amongst the future of this special place in Victoria Falls. The spacious open-plan bedroom has a king-sized bed and a dressing room behind the bed that features built-in cupboards. The natural tones and materials are offset by pops of vibrant

chartreuse and golden yellow. The colour scheme enlivens the space and recalls the yellow hues of a southern masked weaver bird, the fresh green of new shoots, or the blooms of a fever tree. The fresh, spacious and welcoming room sets the tone for our stay here. There is also a seating area, wooden desk, minibar, tea and coffee station and even an ice-making machine. The en suite bathroom is luxurious with twin copper basins, a walk-in shower, and a closed toilet. It is stocked with toiletries, dressing gowns, and slippers. When you step through the glass bathroom door, you are greeted by an outdoor shower and a roll-top tub with views of the Zambezi.

My husband and son are immediately drawn out of the doors to the private plunge pool on the deck. I personally decide I like the look of the sun loungers from which to take in the breathtaking views and passing wildlife. While the boys change into swimming gear, I inspect what must be the most perfect twin-bedded kid’s room, next door to ours. It is air-conditioned for comfort and has its own cupboard and en suite bathroom to make life easier.

We make the most of a few hours of swimming and relaxing. Our suite proves to be an excellent spot for bird and animal watching. Banded mongoose, vervet monkeys and warthogs all pay us a visit and we can hear an elephant breaking branches as he browses nearby.

Eventually, hunger calls, and we make our way back down the winding boardwalk to the central area for a late lunch. Ivory coloured umbrellas shelter outdoor living areas on split-level decks that extend down to the firepit and jetty. On the biggest deck above, a large tent offers sheltered dining, a full-service bar, and comfortable lounge areas, all with a mix of timber and wicker furnishings. All the areas are

smattered with the same vibrant, warm yellows and greens as the guest rooms. We choose hearty burgers from the à la carte menu, and as we enjoy them, the chef comes to inquire about our dining preferences for the evening. With satisfied bellies, we decide it is time to explore beyond the camp and head out on a game drive with our knowledgeable guide. Throughout our stay, the staff went the extra mile to accommodate our young child. The chef was happy to have us dine early and to make a kid-friendly spaghetti for my son for dinner. At one point, I looked up to see the barman playing hide and seek with my son, much to his delight. Bright, one of the managers, was incredibly welcoming and friendly and spent time playing with our son. On our game drive, our guide Vusa was fantastic at entertaining and educating. From reading the spoor left by passing animals and explaining how he could tell when that animal passed, to entertaining my son by pretending to let him talk on the radio, he made his drive a delight.

Morning and afternoon game drives take you through Zambezi National Park, where elephants, buffalo, kudu, giraffe, eland, impala, warthog, lion, painted dog, and other animals can be seen. We saw several elephants, including a family group with a very young calf and a huge herd of buffalo meandering down to the Zambezi to drink. It was incredible driving amongst the hundreds of buffalo. We almost felt like a part of the herd as they snorted and shuffled, the herd projecting an enormous sense of power and movement.

We rounded a bend as the sun was setting to find an incredible view of the Zambezi, with a white sand beach. A picnic and bar had been laid out for us. The scene was set with copper jugs, white table cloths, a teak bar, delectable hors d’oeuvres and an inviting array of pillows and carpets. As we sank into the pillows, we were served our drink of choice, and a herd of elephants passed by to drink from the river. We watched the sun go down as the elephants drank and we sipped on sparkling wine. Some of the large bull elephants took to the river to swim and passed close by us as they returned to land. My son was captivated. After a full day, we returned to camp and I retired to the room early to put my tired but happy little boy into bed. A delicious dinner was sent to the room for us. Zesty gazpacho was perfect for the hot weather. I sampled the crocodile tail while my husband had the beef fillet, both of which were delicious. A decadent chocolate creation for dessert topped off a great day. The following morning, I rose to watch a gorgeous pink-hued sunrise over the Zambezi

River from the comfort of my bed. Hearing the sounds of the African bush waking up and watching the lightly rolling mist caressing the surface of the water, all while lounging in bed with a cup of filtered coffee, was a highlight of my stay. When we went to the main area for breakfast, I browsed the informational boards on the camp’s history. Old Drift Lodge takes its name from its location. Though you would never know it today, this was once the main Zambezi River crossing point for Northern and Southern Rhodesia (now Zambia and Zimbabwe). A ‘drift’ is a section of the river that is shallow enough to traverse without needing a boat. Known as “Clarke’s Drift”, it was the narrowest part of the river, making it the best crossing point.

Before the Victoria Falls Bridge was completed in 1898, people would carry goods, vehicles, people, animals, and other items across the drift. It became a crossroads, and a small settlement sprang up around it. When the settlers moved into town, the site was abandoned, and nature reclaimed it. The fascinating history adds another layer to what is already an exceptional place to stay. We enjoy the buffet-style breakfast and a waiter takes our orders for a cooked breakfast as well. Sadly, our time here is ending, and we make our way through the national park and back to town. This is the only complaint about our trip- it’s just too short! I would suggest a stay of three or more nights at Old Drift. This will give you time to relax at the lodge, enjoy the varied activities on offer in the park, as well as enjoy some of the many activities in Victoria Falls. In the park, you can enjoy morning and afternoon game drives or river safaris. Guided walking safaris along the river or the spring lines of the park are also an option. Children under the age of 16 cannot join walks for safety reasons. The lodge also includes a guided tour of Victoria Falls. If you’re going to Victoria Falls town for a tour of the Falls or any other activity, you’ll either be driven in or transferred by boat to the Old Drift dock, just a 10-minute drive from town. Lunch is included at the Lookout Café for any activities that will keep you in town over lunchtime. The café is a large open-air restaurant overlooking the spectacular Batoka Gorge just downstream from the Victoria Falls waterfall.

No matter how long your stay, the kind, attentive, and knowledgeable guides and staff will ensure it is an enjoyable one. You will have a great blend of nature and luxury at your fingertips in big, light, and well-appointed tents overlooking the river.

FAMILY-FRIENDLY INFORMATION BOX

• Four spacious family suites with inter-leading rooms.

• Air conditioning and plunge pools help little ones cope with the heat the hotter months.

• Children over the age of seven are most welcome at Old Drift Lodge.

• Families with young children should pay extra for a private vehicle for game drives. This will allow them to be taken at your own pace and avoid inconveniencing others. • Staff are attentive and friendly and will provide child-friendly meals and more.