The Zambezi - More than just an Adventure

BIO – LESLEY CRIPPS THOMSON

Lesley Cripps Thomson is a freelance writer, author, promoter of African art & books and active conservationist. Having had a long and successful career in all aspects of tourism, in which she still consults, she has been awarded internationally for her promotion of travel to Africa. As founder of Africa Talked, a media platform for sharing news, conservation, books and art from Africa, Lesley is passionate about creating an awareness of environmental education. She lives with her husband, a wildlife management and environment consultant in KwaZulu Natal, South Africa.

THE ZAMBEZI –

[WRITER: Lesley Thomson ] More Than JustAn Adventure[ PHOTO: Ian Thomson ]

“Garth” I hissed trying to disturb his total concentration on watching the brown snake eagle soaring in a thermal overhead, without disturbing the hippo eyeing us from a few metres away. Known to be rather grumpy and possessive of ‘his’ channel alongside the shoreline, I had no intention of disturbing him.

“Hippo to the right. Very close!” Shocked out of his trance, Garth paddled furiously wedging us straight into a steep sandbank. Not the safest place to be, but swift reverse action headed us in the right direction.

The majestic Zambezi River. This ever-changing river means so much, for so many people, in so many ways. To my two sons, Garth 12 years old and Ryan 11 years old, it was an adventure of a lifetime. We were going, with a few others and our guide Collin, to canoe this magnificent and diverse waterway for 200 kms. I had drawn the short straw, sharing my canoe with my day-dreaming 12 year old. Ryan, luckily, was with a young man whose father had instilled in him a love of the wilds and was sharing his knowledge and enthusiasm with him. In the party was an elderly music teacher and her friend who was almost completely deaf, a delightful older couple who were doctors, and their very unhappy, difficult daughter. To two young boys daughter dear was quite an education, for not only was she always upsetting everyone, she was incredibly hairy and rather large, and insisted on wearing a tiny bikini all the time.

I never did discover why we had no tents, but remember it being so cold some nights that we burrowed into the sand with our sleeping bags. One night we were warned by our unflappable guide that as there were buffalo around, which means there could be lion, it would be better to sleep close to each other. We enjoyed eight days canoeing past grass covered sandbanks hearing the gentle splash of crocodiles as they slithered into the water. We

watched the antelope browsing on the shoreline, and elephants wading into the reeds to pull succulent grass, shaking the mud off before eating it. The call of the fish-eagle, watching the giant kingfisher yet again miss his prey, the nightjars calling in the evenings and the myriad of early morning bird song, was ever present. Then through the steep treecovered hills of the Mupata Gorge and the red cliffs on the Zambia side of the river, glowing as they caught the sunlight. And of course the phenomenal sunrises and sunsets.

This is not only an adventure, but an amazing way of introducing people, especially the young, to the wonders of nature. In the evenings around the campfire Collin entertained us with his experiences and incredible insight to the synergy of survival for all flora and fauna of the living world around us.

But to know and understand this moody river, one needs to know the people that live alongside it. Life is not always easy living along this river. Sitting with the ladies in their village, under the shadow of the imposing Zambian Escarpment, I developed such a deep admiration for the way they worked and lived. The area around them was almost treeless, sandy from previous flooding of the river, small adobe thatched huts were scattered around, and the pegged cloth we sat under gave little respite from the relentless heat. Chickens shared the fragile shade while we fanned ourselves with whatever was handy.

It can be hard to love wild animals when you live among them. The hippos stomp over your newly planted gardens, elephants trample the maize – usually just before it is about to ripen and be ready for harvesting – and one has to be continually aware of lurking crocodiles and snakes.

Crocodiles are an ever-present menace as they sun themselves on the sandy banks, waiting for easy pickings. Children at a very young age must learn to be aware of these cold-eyed and silent creatures that, with a snap of their powerful jaws, will take them. There are very few families who have not lost a child to these cold-blooded reptiles. Poles are hammered close together across small inlets to build a barrier against crocodiles creating a safer place to collect water and bathe. In an attempt to help the Magurumeno Community under Chieftainess Chiawa, one of the nearby luxury lodge owners financed the development and fencing of a 20 hectare field. A small co-op was formed, mostly of women, with an ‘office’ under the one huge tree in the middle of the land to be cleared.

Before dawn the women would strap their babies to their backs, balance water on their heads, and carrying their budzas (hoes) they would set off to start manually clearing the field, arriving as the sun was just rising, burning off the mist over the Zambezi River. Day after day they worked until the area was clear enough of old roots, small trees and bushes to bring in a tractor, plough and harrow. Maize seeds were planted by hand. A solar powered electric fence was erected, the metal poles in the scorching heat of the day too hot to handle hindering progress. Why is that lady sitting under a scruffy, tiny, thatch shelter in this intense humid heat? She is on guard watching for baboons that will raid her maize that is cobbing. The small boy up the tree on the outside of the fence, precariously balancing on the insecure platform of three branches tied together, has a better view to warn as the raiding troupes advance. Baboons are considered to be the worse crop raiding animals in Africa. There is little they can do to prevent these thieving creatures from taking their fill. After the rains come swarms of crop-destroying corn crickets. This actually pleases the villagers, as carrying big baskets they collect them as fast as they can. Corn crickets are tasty and nutritious, not only for them, but also the hundreds of storks that fly in for the same delicacy. Places and people, people and places – interwoven for survival.

Photo Credit: Barbara Ingram Whilst staying on Tsika Island on the Zambezi River, we took an early morning boat ride down to the National Park. In the hot season the beautiful Winterthorn forest is full of elephants feeding on their pods.

This particular elephant was strolling along having a dust bath and was not aggressive at all. It’s a photographer’s dream to visit the Winterthorn forest at this time of the year and we really enjoyed having breakfast on the banks of the Zambezi watching all these great creatures.

CANOEING Kasanka Trust is offering a 3 hour canoeing experience on the Luwombwa River at $30 per person during the 2022 season. Enjoy birdwatching as you paddle downstream.

CYCLING -

Kasanka offers a wilderness adventure trail for 3 nights, leaving Wasa Lodge and cycling to Luwombwa River (bikes available to hire at only $20 per person per day).

CAMPING-

The wilderness trail in Kasanka runs for 3 days from Wasa Lodge to Luwombwa River, via Chikufwe plains where you can see amazing sable, elephants and buffalo in the wild. Camping is only $25 per person per night.

All these activities are supported by an escort scout, safari guide and chef to offer you a memorable adventure. These activities bring you in close view of the large puku concentration along Kasanka River and allow interactions with the endangered Sitaunga.

WELCOME TO PARADISE

KAFUE CAMPS & SAFARIS LTD - MAYUKUYUKU BUSH CAMP

Are you thinking of a safari in Zambia? Maybe you already have some national parks

in mind? Every visitor has a different idea of what they are looking for in a safari, and has different interests, so we hope we can help you make a good choice. The Kafue National Park and particularly Mayukuyuku Bush Camp is an ideal choice for serious wildlife enthusiasts and birders. If you prefer a small, intimate camp, lots of interaction with the guides and staff to really link you with the park and the people of the area, plus you like the idea of a “tradition style rustic bush camp” with top quality comfort and excellent freshly prepared food, then Mayukuyuku should be your choice. Whether your trip is for photography, or to see a wide variety of mammals and birds, interesting trees and vegetation, butterflies and insects - many of which are not found in any other Zambian parks, or maybe you wish to relax and unwind or maybe it is your first safari experience, our little bush camp can tick all the boxes. We have an excellent 6 night stay on offer. The great advantage of the Kafue is it’s size. The Kafue River can be enjoyed all year round as it never dries up. The fact that you are unlikely to see another vehicle on your game drives, nor another boat when on the river - game viewing or fishing – means you will have your own piece of paradise to enjoy. You can take your time to feel the true ambience of the wild thickets and woodlands, open plains and rocky outcrops. The changes of scenery and vegetation will enhance your experience and each season is different. Also, if you wish to see other areas of the park, we can assist with building a package to include the North – Busanga Plains, and the South near Lake Itezhi Tezhi. Please note that Mayukuyuku stays open all year, is inside the park, opposite a beautiful island and we do NOT charge our single travellers a single supplement.

Kafue Camps & Safaris Ltd.

Incorporated in the Republic of Zambia | Kafue Camps – “Wildlife and Community” Based in the North Kafue National Park at Mayukuyuku Camp. On the banks of the Kafue River