Exploring Lower Zambezi

[WRITER: Kyle Branch ]

[PHOTO: Mana Meadows ]

The pitch of the aircraft evens out after take-off from Lusaka and within the blink of an eye you are over the mesmerizing layers of the blue-green coloured mountains that make up the Lower Zambezi Escarpment.

The next shift in the plane comes with a lazy left turn to the east. The wing dips and the shining silver serpent of one of the largest rivers in Africa disappears towards Mozambique in your window, a scene that captures one’s heart forever.

The flight path follows the Lower Zambezi towards Jeki airstrip, the excitement running deep in the veins of people passionate for a Safari in untamed Africa.

Alongside the landing strip there is a herd of elephant being led by their matriarch over the warm surface of Jeki plains towards the soothing green winterthorn woodland and the promise of water. The first footstep off of the aircraft is greeted by the warm air of one of

[PHOTO: Kyle Branch ] the most spectacular wildlife destinations on this continent.

The Lower Zambezi National Park is almost a million hectares of pristine bush- with the catena effect creating a diverse set of habitats ranging from the rocky escarpment and Miombo woodland, down to combretum and Jesse bush thicket, ox bow lakes surrounded by acacia savannahs and finally a magnificent cathedral of winterthorn that line the banks of the surging Zambezi.

There is no better way to experience the vast web of insects, birds and animals that serve a special purpose in the life cycle of these habitats, than by the guiding of Zambia’s most passionate guides. Guides that have not only studied for years in the bush but have also grown up offline too- guides that live and breath for tracking leopards and lion but will sit and watch Livingstone’s flycatchers for hours or search thickets for weeks to find African pittas.

The secret to this park lies not just in the surrounds but the experience- there are not too many places in Africa where you Safari on land AND water!

Boating on the Lower Zambezi: This allows for the sighting of many diverse species of aquatic birds with very different photographic angles to those on game drives.

There is nothing like sneaking through islands and sand bars searching for African skimmers or watching a large herd of elephants swim and play through the deeper water to get across to reed beds in the middle of the river. What about the thrill and the glee on an anglers face as they fight a large tigerfish on a fly or spinning rod?

When hippos and crocodiles have been talked about and the last aquatic birds have been spotted from the boat- it’s perfect timing for a game drive.

Game drives: With a wild dog pack of nearly 40 individuals that fancy hunting a buffalo now and again it gets very interesting on the floodplains! The winterthorn woodlands provide ample shade with many “leopard” branches, and coupled with an outrageous density of leopard, it provides outstanding moments almost daily.

Plains game, reptiles and other special fauna and flora are in abundance, keeping the guides and their guests busy for days.

Walking safaris: Time MUST be set aside for a few walking safaris through this paradise.

It begins with all ears tuned to the birds waking up and eyes focused on the golden light starting to filter through the woodland.

A hippo ambles down the same hippo path the group are using- the guide politely gives it space. The next encounter - a large bull elephant- will he stand on his hind legs or not?

Aquatic, woodland and grassland birds advertise their presence 360 degrees around the walkers while the guide and back-up guide set up the tools needed for a quality tea stop and short rest.

On the way back to camp the liquid gold form of a leopard, slides along the white sand of a dry river bed, and after re-adjusting the walk direction for a herd of buffalo, camp materializes from the tree trunks with happy smiles welcoming you back.

Canoeing, and no engine involved- you

and nature only! The narrow channels that break from main river Zambezi make for some of the best and peaceful viewing there is in Africa. Safely settled in the canoe, the silent approach to large and small creatures is out of this world! The guide shares information softly as herons hunt close by and kingfishers fly low trying to steal prey from each other.

Often the lions corner and kill prey against the edge of the channels or are sleeping in the damp grass nearby.

A sunset follows you into camp- silence settles over the canoes as the sun disappears into an orange and red glimmer on the water- nothing needing to be said in a moment that no human forgets.

If it’s about time to take a break from the constant noise of media and technology, then Lower Zambezi National Park should be on that flight ticket.

[PHOTO: Mike Sutherland ]