In the Company of Painted Wolves

[WRITER / PHOTO: Lee-Anne Russell ]

In October 2020, we got to experience one of the most thrilling and special experiences there is in Mana Pools. It was our first morning in the park and despite us feeling exhausted from setting up camp the previous evening, clutching our travel mugs filled with a strong coffee, we set off, eager to see what the park had to offer. We desperately hoped to find the painted dogs (also known as painted wolves) which by now should have left their dens and been more active on the flood plains. We circled the usual spots and saw elephant, waterbuck, hyena, impala, all the usual suspects but no sign of the painted dogs. Every year we had hoped to spot these beautiful animals and had so far been very unlucky.

As the late morning heat became unbearable as it does in Mana, we headed back to Nyamepi to wait out the blistering hours of the day. We set to lunch and the general upkeep that one needs to maintain when camping. A short while later, another camper returned from their morning drive, she had found the painted dog pack and was excited to share her sighting. We optimistically planned to see if they were still there towards the cooler end of the afternoon, more than likely they would be, as the dogs will usually wait out the heat of the day lying about in the shade. The hours ticked by, and the temperature slowly dropped, finally we were off to find the dogs, a convoy of four vehicles trekking through the park to their last known location. To our dismay they were not there. We drove up and down the area but if there is one animal that camouflages very well its these dogs, they blend into their surroundings very well, often invisible in plain sight.

One of the more experienced members of our group suggested we make the necessary arrangements to track the dogs on foot. We had basic walking experience in Mana Pools and thought this was an excellent idea and in short order were able to trek after the dogs. With our cameras strapped on and extra batteries in our pockets, the five of us ventured into the small, wooded area we suspected them to have retreated from the heat into. Less than fifteen minutes into our walk we came across them lying about in the shade. Keeping our distance, swatting away mopane flies and the occasional tsetse fly, we managed to get a handful of mediocre photos of them through the brush and watch as they engaged with each other, the pups often tumbling around playfully. They paid us very little mind only briefly looking up at us.

It was not long before there was movement in the pack, the adults slowly started getting up and slinking off, one at a time. As the last of the pups followed the adults, we heard ahead of us their typical yips of greeting and playing. Slowly, and as quietly as possible, very aware of every little twig snapping underfoot, we trailed them into the clearing by a stream, where they had moved to for water. Silently, we moved into an unobtrusive position. Crouching down, sidling along on the muddy ground to get a clear view, never making sudden or large movements, we settled in to watch them

ZIMBABWE | PAINTED WOLVES for the rest of the afternoon. While the adults drank their fill and lay down again to rest, paying us negligible attention, the pups took the new open space to be a personal playground. They ran around, chasing each other, occasionally harassing the adults, and scaring off the occasional vulture brave enough to attempt approaching for water. As we sat there, the dogs all perked their ears up, facing the brush we had walked through, the puppies froze mid game, and we heard low growls from the dogs. Seconds dragged on for an eternity, I sat there, holding my breath, anxiously scanning the tree line, feeling completely exposed and imagining all sorts of horrific scenarios that involved myself and a ravenous lioness. Suddenly I realized how vulnerable I was without my trusty cruiser to roll the windows up on. When nothing ventured from the tree line and the puppies resumed their antics there was an audible sigh of relief from us all. Towards sunset, one of the painted dogs got more curious about our presence. Walking to within five meters of us and sniffing, to briefly investigate these strange creatures observing them. He looked very intimidating, especially for something half the size of one of my own dogs back home. I will admit at this point I was nervous, despite them ignoring us previously, they were still wild animals and very efficient predators at that. He lay down between his pack and us and stayed there till the pack later moved on. This felt like a protective gesture on his part towards his pack. As the sun dipped towards the horizon, the dogs started getting up from their slumber again, greeting each other, splashing through the now muddy water, and becoming much more active. Within ten minutes the pack leaders had started off at a trot, promptly followed in single file by the rest of the pack.

After they had all left, we sat there for a few minutes just taking in everything that had just happened, laughing about how we had all pictured a lion stalking through the brush ready to rush in at the dogs - or us! This was the very photo opportunity I had been wanting to experience since my very first trip to Mana Pools. Being near these creatures was every bit as amazing as I had anticipated. We got up, dusted off and started the short walk back to our vehicles, wary of any prowling predators on the hunt in the dusky light. That night around the fire, we sat long into the evening, comparing photos, and discussing every minute of our afternoon, finally going to bed with bright expectations of what the next two weeks would bring.