Sports+Travel Singapore

MICA (P) 039/03/2012

Gamskogel mountain Š Tirol Werbung

MAY-JUN 2012

ISSUE 45 Eco Issue

Tirol | South America | Sarawak

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Our Team

Green Bits

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Editor-in-Chief May Lynn Writer Konrad Clapp

From recycling your cans to turning off your light when you’re not using it, going green is something that’s not new to many of us. So when it comes to travel, you can keep your green initiative by reducing your cabon footprint – whether it’s planting trees for your flight or tackling your entire trip with your own two feet or public transport.

This issue, we’re featuring some green destinations with a spot of wildlife watching, including nearby Bako National Park with its vocal proboscis monkeys and other rainforest inhabitants, as well as the Ulu Temburong in Brunei for the chance to traverse the world’s tallest treetop canopy walk for glimpses of its magnificent birdlife.

Head to Okavango Delta which is famed for its river that floods once a year, drawing an incredible amount of wildlife to its shores. Take a makoro ride or a walking safari to help decrease your carbon footprint on your safari.

Or head to Rwanda for gorilla tracking on foot in the mountains of Virunga National Park where you can meet these giants face to face. For a bit of cultural ecotourism, Yunnan’s centuries’ old villages provide a glimpse into a life of bygone days, while a trip to the sprawling temples of Bagan will inspire your spiritual side.

General Manager Aaron Stewart

Media Rep Lennox & Ooi Media Pte Ltd 391B Orchard Road, Ngee Ann City #13-09 Tower B, Singapore 239974 Tel 6732 0325 / 6737 1236 www.sportsandtravelonline.com sportsntravel@gmail.com

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For some amazing landscape, visit Taiwan’s scenic Northeast Coast with its sculptural geological playground or head to the Tirol region if you’re looking for some classic Alpine scenery.

If you’re hankering for more stories, do check out our blog!

Until then, Happy Trails!

Singapore Aaron Stewart, Lennox & Ooi Media aaron.stewart@sportsandtravelonline.com

Hong Kong Chris Ng cng@sportsandtravel.com.hk

Contributors Adrian Bottomley, Alvin Low, Clara Lock, James Cruikshank, Ken Berg, Pauline Tan, Tsalina Phang

Special Thanks Adventure Quests Shangrila Adventure WanGoDo and many, many others!

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If you prefer highlands, head to Tibet and tackle the Friendship Highway on a bicycle as you traverse passes as high as 5,000m from Lhasa to Kathmandu, dropping by plenty of amazing Buddhist monasteries along the way. Further afield, the mountains of Bolivia and Peru provide an amazing backdrop for their centuries’ old culture and architecture that involve witches, sacrifices and the Incan Empire.

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At just 37km from the state capital of Kuching, the park encompasses rainforest, jungle streams and waterfalls, secluded beaches, rock formations and hilly viewpoints.

Malaysia

Sarawak's oldest national park, Bako was gazetted in 1957 and covers an area of over 2 hectares on the tip of the Muara Tebas peninsula. Even though it is one of the smallest national parks in Sarawak, Bako National Park is the best place to view an incredible variety of plant species, as well as its native wildlife.

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BAKO NATIONAL PARK

The best way to get around the park is via its vast network of trails. While it is possible to navigate these marked trails on your own, having a guide helps you spot the wildlife that you may otherwise miss.

(5 passengers per boat) at the National Parks Boat Ticketing Counter next to the jetty, and the boat ride from Kampung Bako to Bako's park headquarter is about 30 minutes via the scenic Santubong River.

Most trails take under 3.5 hours to complete, except for Bukit Gondol (4.5 hrs), Telok Limau (7 hrs) and Telok Kruin (7.5 hrs). Some trails finish at secluded beaches or pass waterfalls which are ideal for swimming.

The ride on the small boats is part of the Bako experience, and you may be able to spot some saltwater crocodiles along the riverbanks. If the tide is high upon arrival, you will be deposited at a small jetty near the park headquarters, but if the tide is too low, you will have to take your shoes off and wade to the jetty.

GETTING THERE Access to the park is by boat from Bako Village (Kampung Bako), which is 45 minutes by bus from Kuching. Boats can be chartered

It is best to arrange with the boatman for

your return ride at the dock, although departure is dependent on the tides (boats can get stuck in low tide).

There are also plenty of tour operators based in Kuching that have organised trips to Bako National Park, which include a guide, lunch and all transfers.

There are several accommodation options in the park, including hostel beds, lodges, chalets and campsites, which can be reserved via the forestry’s e-booking site.

For accommodation rates and park entry fees, visit www.sarawakforestry.com.

WILD ENCOUNTERS As the oldest park in Sarawak, Bako is also one of the best places for wildlife experiences since animals here are less wary of humans.

The best times for wildlife viewing are just after dawn or just before dusk, when the animals are most active. Moving about the park solo or in small groups will offer you better chances of spotting the wildlife.

Monkeys Probably the most visible wildlife within Bako would be the monkeys, as the park is home to long-tailed macaques, silver langurs, as well as proboscis monkeys.

The macaques are common here, and can easily be seen near the park headquarters and the nearby accommodations. Like macaques in the rest of Southeast Asia, they are fearless and will raid dustbins and unguarded bags.

In contrast, the silver langur (or silver-leaf monkey) are docile and are more arboreal than the macaques. Adult langurs have silvergrey fur and a spiky crest of head hair, while the infants are born with bright orange fur.

However, the star primate of Bako is definitely the rare proboscis monkey. Found only in Borneo, the male possesses a large pendulous nose (which grows bigger with age) and a large pot-belly. Bako is home to about 300 of these primates, which are mostly arboreal and move about in small family troupes, feeding on young leaves, shoots, fruits and seeds.

The best trails for viewing them are Telok Delima and Telok Paku, as well as the mangroves at Telok Assam. Finding one may require patience – just listen out for grunts and rustling leaves – and luck. Some of the younger members of the troupe are a bit more bold and might try to spray visitors below with urine.

Bearded Pig Another regular fixture at Bako are the Bornean Bearded Pigs, which are the park's

largest mammal. As the name suggests, these pigs sport prominent bristles on either sides of their snouts. As they are scavengers, they can normally be found near the park's headquarters, scavenging for food or wallowing in mud.

Reptiles Snakes feature prominently at the park, and most of them are harmless, save for the green-coloured, arboreal Wagler's Pit Viper, which is distinguishable by its broad, flat and triangular head. When moving about the park, try to avoid straying from the trails, as these snakes are often found resting on the lower branches of trees.

Other prominent snakes include the Grass Green Whip Snake, easily recognised by its bright green colour, pencil-thin body and long snout, and the Paradise Tree Snake, with its black upper body that is marked with green spots, and a yellow-green underbelly with red spots.

Another common reptile at the park is the olive-coloured Common Water Monitor, which can reach lengths of 2m. These strong swimmers can be seen scavenging along the beaches or mangroves, while flying lizards can sometimes be seen launching themselves between trees.

Other Wildlife When night falls, those overnighting at the park can catch Bako's nocturnal creatures like the flying lemur, pangolin, mouse deer, tarsier, slow loris and palm civet. Sometimes, there are nighttime sightseeing hikes organised by the park staff.

FLORA Bako is home to almost every type of vegetation found in Sarawak, and these include the carnivorous pitcher plants.

There are 7 distinct ecosystems here, ranging from beach vegetation to heath forest and peat swamp forest. The park's network of trails takes you through these different environments.

Malaysia

05 PULAU LAKEI

BAKO NATIONAL PARK

Teluk Limau

Teluk Teluk Pandan Pandan Besar Kecil

Teluk Paku

PARK HQ Tanjung Sapi

Lintang

For more on Bako National Park and Sarawak, visit www.sarawaktourism.com Lintang trail (5.25km, 3.5 hrs) – and a short detour up Bukit Tambi – takes you through the park's range of vegetation in half a day. This trail is most popular for those with only a day at the park, and offers good opportunities for spotting proboscis monkeys.

PARK TRAILS Bako has a network of trails that allows you to explore different aspects of the park. There are officially 16 colour-coded jungle trails with a range of hiking options. Radiating from the park headquarters, the hikes are over some pretty rugged terrain, some with lots of exposed roots and vegetation.

For proboscis spotting, the relatively flat Telok Paku trail (800m, 1 hr) offers one of the best opportunities to see the primates, and it finishes at a small secluded beach that's near a proboscis colony. The circular

jung Sapi trail (500m, 30 mins) is a short climb through thick vegetation, affording views of Telok Assam, as well as opportunities to spot proboscis monkeys amongst the trees.

In contrast, the much longer 7 hour (5.75km) Telok Limau trail passes through rich rainforest, scrub land and swamp forest, as well as a number of hilly sections (with excellent views of the entire peninsula) and small streams. Only physically fit or experienced trekkers should attempt this trail, and can done as a day-hike (you can arrange for a boatman to pick you up at Limau beach) or as a 2-day overnight camp at Limau beach.

You can also negotiate with the boatmen to take you to the nearby Pulau Lakei, which is a small island with a white sand beach.

The highest point (accessible via a 160-step wooden ladder) is the grave of a legendary Malay warrior who was credited for carving calligraphy on the rocks at the nearby Salamun Pool with his bare fingers. The Pa’Amit trail (1km, 30 min) leads to 2 viewpoints for great vistas of Mt Santubong.

The Tajor trail (2.75km, 2.5 hrs) takes you through a varied terrain, including exposed hilltops with expansive views, scrub and padang vegetation, before ending with a steep descent to a small beach. The trail passes the small Tajor Waterfall, which has a small dip pool that is safe for swimming.

To see the park's famous sea-eroded seastacks, the Telok Pandan Kecil and Telok Pandan Besar trails are the park's most popular. The Telok Pandan Kecil trail ascends to the forested hills and a sandy path lined with carnivorous pitcher plants before reaching a clifftop with stunning views of the secluded bay below and the famous seastacks just offshore. A 10-minute descent brings you to one of the best beaches in the park. The Telok Pandan Besar trail ends at a clifftop overlooking the beach below.

GEAR GUIDE

PG Bikes Dark Cruiser

FIT FOR FEET The Superfeet GREEN has been a popular insole for over 30 years, and is designed primarily for footwear with a removable insole. Superfeet's Encapsulating Stabilizer System (ESS) helps support and stabilise the feet, making shoes fit better so you can avoid unnecessary discomfort or pain. The patented stabiliser cap and foam full length creates a deep heel cup to cradle the feet's fat pad for improved natural shock absorption. It is recommended for people with medium to high arched feet seeking maximum support for a variety of activities. Now available at Campers' Corner, retailing from S$55-S$60.

Superfeet Insole

RAD RIDE These funky PG E-bikes electric bicycles not only go longer distances then conventional electric bicycles effortlessly, their emission-free motors are made by Clean Mobile in Munich, so you can ride with a clean conscience. Handmade in Germany, the BlackBlock series’ Dark Cruiser is built with a 48 Volt Hybrid motor that gives you a 25km/h speed, with a range of up to 200km. The Lithium Ion battery has a minimum of 1,500 load cycles, and takes 30 minutes to charge at 80%, and 3 hours for 100%. The frame is guaranteed for 15 years (4 years for the motor), and is available at The Big Country at S$8,986.

Columbia Crescent Peak

FIT FOR ALL Constructed with heavy duty waterproof TPU film laminate fabric, the Patagonia Black Hole Duffel is made for keeping your gear dry in wet conditions. The main compartment comes with 2 zippered internal mesh pockets to keep things separated and a padded foam bottom to protect your contents. Carry with the handle or with removable padded shoulder straps. Two haul handles on the side makes it easy to grab-and-go, while the 4 corner-mounted webbing daisy chains facilitate hauling and tying down big loads. The 45L duffel is now available at Outdoor Life at S$168.

Patagonia Black Hole

TAKE A LOAD OFF Columbia's Crescent Peak is a 23litre daypack that is ideal for hot weather hikes. The Backdraft back panel features directional foam conduits that allow hot air to rise and be replaced with cooler air, while its naturally antimicrobial and odour-resistant Techlite straps are made with breathable mesh inserts, which are strong but lightweight and accompanied with cushioning for comfort. The waterproof Omni-Shield material keeps the pack dry even in sudden showers, keeping it lighter than conventional packs.

Available at all Columbia shops and selected World of Sports at S$159.

SMALL SHOT

Panasonic TZ30

Panasonic's 14.1 megapixel Lumix TZ30 is a compact cam that captures crisp images and high speed HD movie recording. Its 20x Optical Zoom and 24mm Ultra Wide Angle Leica lens allows you to take photos of almost any scenery or small space easily. Its high sensitivity MOS Sensor with noise reduction function captures good photos in dim light, aided by the Optical Image Stabilizer to suppress blurriness. For travellers, its GPS system lets you geo tag images to show the places you've been to. Available throughout Singapore, with an RRP of S$549.

WALKING COMPANION SNUG AS A BUG The Marmot Flashpoint is a Polartec Classic Microfleece jacket that balances warmth and minimal bulk. The flattering cut for the female form makes it ideal as an outerwear for cool weather, while its snug fit means it's a good insulating mid-layer in winter. The wind flap behind the zipper with chin guard blocks incoming wind and cold, while the microfleece offers excellent moisture management.

The Lycra cuffs come with integrated thumb holes, while the zippered handwarmer pockets help keep your mitts warm in cold weather.

Now available at Campers' Corner at S$99.

The new Hi-Tec Sierra Lite I WP hiking boot was designed to give you adequate support when carrying a moderate load when hiking. The design incorporates a lower heel-to-toe ratio, bringing the heel closer to the trail for a more light-footed, natural feel and stride by mimicking the natural position of the foot so you can have a greater feel of the ground underfoot.

The boot also features ion-mask technology waterproofing, Vibram rubber soles for superior grip, as well as OrthoLite insoles that provide cushioning, breathability and microbial function. The Sierra Lite I WP is available at World of Outdoors and selected World of Sports at S$299.

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Hi-Tec Sierra Lite I WP

SUN-POWERED The mPowerpad is a multi-fuctional solar device that is easy to use with its in-built accelerometer. You can store ample power to charge your electronic devices - like mobile phones and tablets - on the go. Its tough water, dust, and shock resistant casing makes it an ideal outdoor companion, as it also comes with a built-in reading light, flash light, radio and even high frequency insect repellent. The mPowerpad comes with 7 adaptors for various USB charging, with a wall charger sold separately. Now available at Adventure21 at $179.90 and $199.90 (with charger).

TOUGH SHOT

Thule Rolling Upright case w/Race Pack

TOUGH CHIC The new Crossover collection by Swedish brand Thule is designed to meet the needs of outdoor enthusiasts with a touch of chic. The sturdy aluminium hardware is covered with water-resistant fabric, while the heatmoulded crush-proof SafeZone compartment (which is lockable) is ideal for keeping your fragile gear. A stable, straight roll is aided by the V-Tubing exoskeleton and tough, oversized wheels. The 60L Rolling Upright case features a detachable Race Pack that has enough capacity for daily essentials, and is available at The Planet Traveller, retailing at S$589.

Contour specialises in hands-free video cameras designed for adventurers, making action videos easy to shoot and share. The Contour+ features the largest lens to create a Full HD 1,080 pixel video, while the 170Âş wide-angle rotating lens delivers high quality images with minimal fish-eye distortion.

It also features GPS recording that speedily tracks speed, location and elevation, with microSD card storage for up to 32GB of video. It’s built with a burly, water-resistant aluminium shell that takes a beating whether you're in raging storms or muddy tracks.

There is also a separate waterproof case should you wish to take it up to 60m. There are a wide variety of mounts for the Contour+, including those for your helmet and mountain bike. The Contour+ is available at The Big Country at S$995.

Contour+

Situated at the far eastern end of the long chain of volcanic islands stretching across the Pacific from Indonesia to PNG and beyond, Fiji's a dense cluster of 333 islands spread over colourful reefs and cobalt blue waters.

Fiji is coined the 'Soft Coral Capital of the World', and it attracts many divers who come to explore its waters. Most of its famous dive sites are scattered throughout its 300+ islands, which makes it only logistically possible via internal flights and liveaboards. But, those with limited time can just visit Viti Levu, where you can experience the most of Fiji, from traditional villages and varied cultures to cool mountains and excellent dive sites.

FIJI'S PACIFIC HARBOUR

VITI LEVU Most of the population live on the 2 main islands – Viti Levu and Vanua Levu – while the rest remain as nature reserves. Home to the capital Suva, and the majority of the population, the main island of Viti Levu is Fiji's financial and transport hub.

Cut through by a chain of central mountains, and stretching north-south through the middle of the island, the east coast enjoys substantial rains, the west falls in the mountains' rain shadow, making things comparatively drier.

The island can be divided into 4 regions for travellers: Rakiraki to the north, Nadi to the west, as well as the Coral Coast and Pacific Harbour to the south.

While many divers prefer the secluded dive spots in Fiji s far flung islands, Viti Levu is convenient for that one-stop destination, where you can pack in as much diving, culture, whitewater rafting, kayaking and surfing as time allows.

PACIFIC HARBOUR Located on the southern coast of Viti Levu and right next to the tropical lushness of the Coral Coast, is the upmarket development of Pacific Harbour, with its flawless lawns, wide streets and ordered rivers.

World-class diving can be had in nearby Beqa Lagoon – including wreck dives, coral dives, and pelagic fish dives – just offshore to the south, while swimming is a popular activity at Deuba beach. Shark fanatics from across the globe come to Pacific Harbour's Beqa Lagoon particularly for its exhilarating Shark Feeding sessions.

Diving with Sharks The Shark Reef Marine Reserve is Fiji's first shark sanctuary, situated a few kilometres off the coast from Pacific Harbour in the Beqa Passage.

The area is home to an abundant range of marine life including hundreds of species of fish, and at least 8 types of sharks, including bull sharks, gray, white and black tip reef sharks, lemon sharks, nurse sharks, the occasional tiger and oceanic white tip shark.

Numerous bull sharks up to 3m are on most dives, along with nearly 300 species of fish like giant travellies, humphead wrasse, red bass, surgeon fish, triggerfish, cod, grouper and bait fish.

Unique as one of the few places in Fiji (or the world), the reserve is where you can dive as part of a large-scale, ecologically responsible shark feeding, in cooperation with the local villages of Galoa and Wainiyabia – the traditional rights-holders of the local reefs.

As part of a large-scale, ecologically responsible shark feeding, dive masters are from the local villages and the Shark Marine Reserve fee is put directly in the villages' community chests; in return, they protect the reefs instead of fishing from it.

The Shark Encounter in Beqa Lagoon is where divers can experience the adrenaline rush of diving with 8 species of sharks up close at a depth of about 24m. Divers are not in a cage; they rest on the reef just a

rich dark red and purple soft coral that occupy a reef passage creating the surreal feeling of walking between large buildings).

Soft Coral Diving Fiji is often known to divers as the 'Soft Coral Capital of the World', and just offshore from Pacific Harbour lies the Beqa Lagoon, one of Fiji's best known dive sites and Viti Levu's best. There are more than 20 excellent dive sites within a 10-20 minute boat ride from Pacific Harbour, including soft coral bommies, pinnacles, fringing reefs and 4 purpose-sunk wrecks.

Other favourite dive sites include Joes Best (a large pinnacle with a giant swim through covered in soft corals, where Blue Ribbon Eels can be found), Carpet Cove (site of a 30m-deep wreck covered in soft corals, with barracuda and leaf scorpion fish found here), Million Dollar Point (a shallow 16m dive with intensely colourful corals), Frogs Leap (an easy dive site with large plate corals and large fish) and Turtle Head (soft coral pinnacles with a variety of fish from small exotics to large cods).

Some of the world class soft coral sites here include Caesar's Rocks (pinnacles covered with a profusion of soft coral and fans, and teeming with small exotic fish life), Nisici Rocks (pinnacles of soft coral and reef fish including the elusive Blue Ribbon Eel) and Side Streets (small pinnacles smothered in

Fiji

within touching distance from the guides who feed chunks of fish to passing sharks.

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GETTING THERE There are currently no direct flights into Navi International Airport, but the most convenient transfer is via Australia (a number of carriers can take you there).

Pacific Harbour is a 2-hour drive from Nadi International Airport and 40 minutes from Suva).

A byword in African safari, the Okavango Delta is one of the world's largest inland water systems that supports an extraordinary diversity of wildlife. This labyrinth of lagoons, lakes and hidden channels is trapped in the parched Kalahari desert, making it a magnet for the wildlife that depend on its permanent supply of water.

When the delta floods from the rains, the area can expand to over 17,000sq.km., and large numbers of wildlife start to congregate on the edge of the newly flooded areas.

TEXT BY Clara Lock

WINDING WATERWAYS With its headwater starting in neighbouring Angola's highlands, the river flows through Namibia before entering Botswana, where it is called the Okavango. Without the delta, this area of Botswana would have otherwise been a dry Kalahari savanna.

The unique feature of this river is that it takes almost 9 months for the water to reach the bottom from the source due to the lack of elevation. By the time it reaches the Kalahari, over 95% of its water would have evaporated.

The delta's floods start from Angolan rains (October to April), which cross over to Botswana and Namibia by December,

OKAVANGO DELTA

reaching the bottom end of the delta (at Maun) sometime in July. During the flooding, the areas surrounding the delta will begin to dry out, driving the wildlife to congregate at the edge of the newly flooded areas between May and October.

RIVER SAFARI Waterways are the heart of the Okavango delta, and you can explore them by mokoro – a dug out canoe guided by a native guide who steers and navigates with a long pole, similar to a gondolier in Venice.

These canoes were once made from hollowed out tree trunks trees, but today they are made from fiberglass for a sturdier, and more eco-friendly ride.

It may feel wobbly at first, but once you settle into the ride, you’ll be able to appreciate the vast plains that stretch out in all directions. Recline into the mokoro and you might even find yourself drifting off to sleep, lulled by the gentle swaying of the swampy water.

As you bob downstream, peer beyond the reeds that surround your canoe and you might spot some impressive game – elephants trumpeting in the distance, and herds of bathing hippos are a common sight along the riverbank. Other common animals found in this area include the lechwe (a type of antelope), zebras as well as impressive wading birds like storks, ibises and egrets.

Spend a couple of nights in the Botswana plains for an authentic bush experience. The Moremi Game Reserve, which is the main National Park in the area, sits on the Mopane Tongue – a dry piece of land that juts into the delta.

If you want to experience the call of the wild while reveling in creature comforts, shack up in luxury resorts located within the reserve, which feature wooden huts and hot showers amidst lush greenery.

Want to get down and dirty without breaking your back? Embark on a mobile camping trip through the reserve, where your tents will be set up for you so you can crash after a long day in the bush without worrying about tent pegs and guy lines.

GAME ENOUGH? One of the best ways to view big game is on a walking safari, which will be led by an indigenous guide. For those looking for a real back-to-nature experience, trekking through the delta provides a far more

authentic experience than riding in the back of a four-wheeled drive. With no puttering engine to herald your arrival, you’ll blend in to the grassy environment much better, increasing your chances of spotting some wildlife.

you’re lucky, you’ll also get up close to animals that are skittish and used to scampering away from crowds of humans and vehicles, like a herd of impala or zebra.

But it’s no Sunday stroll – you are a visitor into this land, which is ruled by the predators that govern the ecosystem. Should you encounter a pack of hyenas or lions, trust that your guide, who has grown up living off the land, will be able to lead you out of harm’s way. Surprisingly it is the herbivorous hippos that pose the biggest threat to humans they can easily outrun you and crush your skull with their powerful jaws. If you see any, admire them from afar, but give them a wide berth!

If the grasslands are a bit too untamed for comfort, do your wildlife tracking from the back of a safari vehicle. Bordering Moremi is the Chobe National Park, where you can watch dramatic migrations of buffalo, zebra and wildebeest. Or wait for sundown to go on a night safari, which give you the best chance of spotting predators like lions and cheetah.

Keep your wits about you as you follow your guide, who will navigate a path for your group using the trails and droppings of animals to lead you to a sighting. Your guide, who will have a much keener eye than any city slicker, will be able to point out animals from afar that are camouflaged in the tall grass. If

VISITING THE DELTA

Botswana

CAMPING TRAILS

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The best time to visit the delta is during the dry season (May to October), which sees little rainfall during the day and cool nights that are comfortable for sleeping out in a tent.

© Raymond Wong

GETTING IN Most of the safari camps in the Okavango delta can only be reached by air, on small charter aircrafts from Maun, which is the tourism capital of Botswana. If you’ve booked a tour with any of the safari companies, the flight from Maun should be included in your package.

Domestic airline Air Botswana will fly you from South African capital Johannesburg (from where there are plenty of international connections) to Maun.

S E I K S E H T F BATTLE O

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Advertorial No news isn't always good news. Just because you don't hear about travel mishaps and accidents, doesn't mean they're not going to potentially happen to you.

And what happens then? If you've got adequate insurance, you're covered against the worst. But if you don't, then you might be in for a tough trip.

These three travellers never expected to get stuck in no man’s land or wind up in the emergency room, but misadventures have a way of creeping up on you. We show you how travel insurance can come in handy when you least expect it:

THE ACCIDENTAL TOURIST Any hospitalisation overseas or in Singapore that is serious enough to land you in the Intensive Care Unit (”ICU”) is going to cost you a pretty penny.

A backpacker was motorbiking around Northern Thailand when a van ahead of him stopped abruptly, forcing him to slam on the brakes. But the combination of potholed roads and sudden braking was too much for the rickety bike, which skidded and flung him a short distance away.

He spent 48 hours unconscious in the ICU and another two weeks recovering from the after effects of his concussion. The total cost of his ordeal?

Thousands of dollars!

While travel insurance won't buy you back lost vacation time, with adequate insurance coverage, if you were in his situation, you won’t be wiped out by financial woes and can focus on recovering.

Failure to Connect Unfortunately, we all know flight delays are all too common. And it's made worse when you've got to catch a connection.

Not just another day at the beach Accidents happen even when doing the most innocuous activities.

Three tourists were recently riding a banana boat in Kenting, Taiwan. As they were returning to shore, the jet ski operator was supposed to catch a wave and gently tip them into shallower waters. But he mistimed the waves and turned too fast, prematurely ejecting the trio who flew about ten metres away and landed hard on the sand.

Damage included one broken arm, one injured neck and three bruised egos. While the banana boat operator volunteered to fully reimburse their medical bill, don’t count on all companies being similarly magnanimous.

Travel anecdotes have been compiled from Sports and Travel’s network of contributors.

Going Somewhere?

A Singaporean was recently traveling to Uzbekistan, via Kuala Lumpur, but his flight from Singapore to Kuala Lumpur was being delayed. As a result, he missed his connecting flight from Kuala Lumpur to Uzbekistan.

To make things complicated, his next available flight to Uzbekistan was 1 day later, so he had no choice but to spend a night near the airport. The cost for his hotel reservation would easily be S$400.

With adequate insurance coverage, if you were in his situation, your out-of-pocket expense could be much lower.

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* Promotional premium discount and any gift is applicable to new applications only and is not valid with other TravellerShield promotions, discounts, offers, vouchers, rebates or privileges. Gift for Single Trip Plan is given provided the nett policy premium is S$60 or more after the 20% premium discount. Promotion terms and conditions apply.

TravellerShield is underwritten by MSIG Insurance (Singapore) Pte. Ltd. (”MSIG Insurance”) and distributed by DBS Bank Ltd. This is not a contract of insurance. Full details of the terms, conditions and exclusions of this insurance are provided in the TravellerShield Policy and will be sent to you upon acceptance of your application by MSIG Insurance. This policy is protected under the Policy Owners’ Protection Scheme which is administered by the Singapore Deposit Insurance Corporation (SDIC). Coverage for your policy is automatic and no further action is required from you. For more information on the types of benefits that are covered under the scheme as well as the limits of coverage, where applicable, please contact MSIG Insurance or visit the General Insurance Association or SDIC websites (www.gia.org.sg or www.sdic.org.sg).

Gorillas conjure up the image of ferocious teeth-bearing, chest-beating, looming killers. Towering at 2m in height, weighing 200kg with an arm span of 2.3m, and being very rare and elusive, it is no wonder that people have wrapped a layer of mystery over these creatures or shall we say, “our giant cousins”.

TEXT BY Pauline Tan PHOTO BY Andrew Yeo & Mylene Koh.

GORILLAS IN RWANDA GORILLA FACTS

MOUNTAIN GORILLA

Closely linked by DNA, gorillas are the largest of the four species of great apes that are the closest living relatives of humans ñ the other three are chimpanzees, bonobos and orangutans. Great apes are different from monkeys for a variety of reasons: they are larger, walk upright for a longer period of time, donít have tails and have much larger, more developed brains.

Most gorillas live in inaccessible regions in various dense forests in tropical Africa, and one subspecies – the mountain gorilla – was not even known to science until 1902.

Gorillas typically live in a family group of 6 to 12 members led by the dominant male silverback. Although strong and powerful, gorillas are generally gentle and shy. Many people may not be aware that gorillas are in fact largely herbivores that feed on a diet of shoots, roots, vines, fruit and leaves and occasionally insects. Gorillas spend most of the day foraging to feed their massive body.

The misty mountain forests of the Virunga Massif and Bwindi Impenetrable Forest in central Africa are the last outposts of these endangered mountain gorilla, which number fewer than 800 and are listed as critically endangered in the IUCN Red List.

Gorillas are threatened by habitat loss due to increasing human populations, poaching for the bushmeat trade and diseases like ebola. Living in higher elevations, mountain gorillas are also affected by climate change, which has the potential to impact gorillas directly by altering their habitat, and indirectly

by affecting agriculture yields in nearby communities, which in turn puts more pressure on remaining habitat.

CONSERVATION EFFORTS Conservation efforts revolve around mainly community-based management to provide the local communities with education and alternative means of livelihood to not only protect the gorillas, but aid in increasing the population.

These programmes are mostly funded and supported by tourism, and include expansion of areas of national park to protect the habitat, development of infrastructures to provide for the tourists, training of guides and national park staff, all contributing to the employment and education of the local communities of the conservation needs.

Rwanda, which shares the Virunga Massif with Uganda and Democratic Republic of Congo, has spared no effort in promoting the conservation of its gorilla population through tourism.

Parc National des Volcans, where the gorilla tracking takes place, is well known for its spectacular views of the undulating volcanoes of Mount Karisimbi, Bisoke, Sabyinyo, Gahinga and Muhabura. Within this dense forest, seven gorilla groups have been habituated to human visitors and so there is a 99% likelihood of coming face-to-face with

these gentle giants and watching them eat, groom and play.

Nothing can prepare anyone for the impact of encountering a troop of gorillas, or the sheer presence of an adult male silverback, which can grow to three times the size of an average man.

Doing the Trek To get to the park, it is a mere 2 hours drive along a scenic route from Rwanda’s capital, Kigali. Along the route, you can easily see why Rwanda is also known as the "Land of a Thousand Hills".

Gorilla tracking can be done all year round in Rwanda, but it is best to avoid the rainy season between March to May. As the trekking involves bashing through dense forest undergrowth at a fairly high altitude of between 1,700m to over 2,000m above sea level, it is best to be well-equipped and physically fit to ensure the proper enjoyment of this lifetime experience.

Trekking amongst the mountain gorillas of Rwanda is a heartwarming and memorable wildlife experience of a lifetime, but to ensure their continued survival and to minimise the impact of tourists on the gorillas, the authorities have a strict quota on the number of trekking permits issued in a day and the viewing time is limited to one hour.

Rwanda

GORILLA TRACKING IN RWANDA

15

Non-flash photography is permissible but a safe distance of 7m must be maintained to minimise possible transmission of human diseases.

However, it is not uncommon that the gorillas will actually seek out the visitors to become new playmates.

GETTING THERE There are no direct flights to Rwanda, and the most convenient way is to fly to Nairobi (Kenya) via Bangkok, and from there, take a local connection to Kigali airport.

Adventure Quests organises a 9-Day Gorilla Tracking (with a safari in Kenya) trip from Kigali, with scheduled trips on 21-29 July.

For more, visit www.adventure-quests.com.

Tirol sits at the heart of Europe, and while the region broadly stretches across several borders, it's centred on Austria, with the historic city of Innsbruck as its capital.

People from all over the world are attracted to Tirol‘s impressive peaks and picturesque valleys, its rugged heights and rolling pastures. Tirol’s mountains have something for everyone, whether it’s a leisurely flower trek in the gentle heat of summer, or a colossal, stomachdropping ski descent.

Tirol is also rich in cultural heritage, as reflected in the region’s various museums and architecture, as well as its centuries-old traditions.

INNSBRUCK Though mountain passes and high altitudes characterise the natural landscape, the city of Innsbruck oozes a classic European charm with its cobblestone streets, medieval architecture and street-side cafes that are set against a magnificent backdrop of snow-capped mountains. While many visitors come for its cultural offerings, its outdoor attractions are what keep adventurers in the mountains.

Innsbruck is the only city in the world to have hosted the Winter Olympics three times (1964, 1976 and YOG 2012), making it a top-class snowsports destination. However, come summer, these hills are also ideal for hiking, as well as downhill mountain biking.

This city is also the ideal place to explore the rest of Tirol, with its rail, air and bus connections.

Innsbruck

St. Anton

Ötztal

TEXT BY Clara Lock

ST. ANTON AM ARLBERG St. Anton am Arlberg is a holiday destination with two equally charming personalities. It’s a winter ski resort widely regarded by enthusiasts as world class. And when powdery ski slopes yield to the warm thaw of summer, they reveal the backdrop for a host of outdoor activities.

Alpine Hike Summer brings with it the promise of lush foliage and fresh country air. You could take a chair lift to the top of any summit and have your breath stolen by the view, but make the ascent on your own and you’ll get to see so much more.

Nature lovers can embark on an alpine flower

SUMMER IN TIROL hike to uncover species of flora that do not grow in the valley, only above an altitude of 2,000 metres. If you’re lucky, you may even spot a marmot (large ground squirrels that live in mountainous areas) emerging from a burrow, or Austria’s famous edelweiss.

Most hiking trails are easy, and require little more than reasonable fitness and a good pair of shoes. Walking paths - all 300km of them in total - are clearly marked, with information on the destination and route, estimated time, and difficulty level.

Guides are on hand for those who want to cover serious distances, but if you just want a pleasant half-day walk, there are many spots amidst the St. Anton countryside where

you can stop for a picnic lunch before heading back to the village.

If you’re more comfortable on two wheels, there are trails specially designed for bikers.

You can rent a bike from St. Anton Village and brave the mountain passes on a day trip, or rent a hut for an overnight stay in the shady woods.

Paragliding Since it’s summer, you can soar through the skies on a paragliding flight. Catch a bird’s eye view of the Alps and surrounding countries Germany, Switzerland and Italy as you fly tandem with an experienced instructor.

Several companies in and around St. Anton offer flights.

The 65km-long alpine valley of Ötztal is located in the Austrian state of Tirol, with 250 mountain peaks lining up alongside each other, stretching as far as the eye can see.

Together they form the alpine valley that the Ache River runs through.

Hiking in the Green The Ötztal Nature Park is the region's largest protected area at the rear end of the valley.

Hikers and mountaineers can experience the diversity of four different climates in the span of a few hours.

Start at the rocky and boulder-filled montane zone, where frost-resistant coniferous species reside, before you ascend into the subalpine zone about 1,700m above the ground.

Apart from the hardy and ubiquitous Swiss Pine, you can also spy blueberries and cranberries growing in the wild.

Climb a little higher into the alpine zone, where tree cover gives way to rocks and

shrubbery which are suited to grow in permanently wet ground. Where the snow lands and collects during winter determines the flora that will grow in summer, so peer into nooks and crannies to spot a new species.

As you head further up the mountains, you’ll reach the nival zone, located at 3,000m above sea level. Despite the harsh and unforgiving climate, over a hundred species of flowers grow here, most notably the glacier buttercup, which is adapted to such conditions.

Rocks and boulders You can sign up for a canyoning adventure, where you descend steeply-angled clefts set in a steep-sided valley, abseil down a waterfall, navigate your way down to a rocky river bed and make your way back to the valley, by way of the river.

Great white water While taking a break from climbing, hikers

and climbers can experience the refreshing water spray of the mighty Stuiben Falls, Tirol's biggest waterfall near Umhausen, as it cascades down some 159m.

If you’re keen for some water sports, splash through Ötztal’s raging rivers in an inflatable raft. The Imster Schlucht gorge, with up to Grade III rapids, is one of Europe’s most highly-frequented whitewater rafting areas.

Tirol

ÖTZTAL

17

A more peaceful place to enjoy the valley's clean mountain waters is lake Piburger See, a paradise for swimmers and rowers. Colours range from deep blue to emerald green - reflecting sunshine and clouds, shadow and light as well as the overwhelming beauty of the Ötztal mountain peaks.

Kitzbühel

GETTING TO TIROL While Innsbruck’s international airport is the largest in Tirol, you can also get to the region easily from Munich Airport.

Tirol’s excellent air, rail and road connections makes travelling across this mountainous region a breeze.

As a special highlight, the Orient Express from London to Venice stops twice in St Anton and Innsbruck.

For more on Tirol, visit www.tyrol.com.

KITZBÜHEL Kitzbühel began as a sleepy medieval town nestled in the Alps in western Austria. Today, it is a hotspot in the summer for cyclists, hikers, runners, as well as holidaymakers who simply want to enjoy this breathtakingly beautiful alpine town.

Hit the Trails With more than 1,000km of perfectly maintained trails, hiking is undoubtedly the favourite summer activity in Kitzbühel. Guided tours led by experienced hiking guides and rangers are offered free of charge in summer.

Start the day early by catching a cable car up the mountains and be rewarded with a glorious sunrise in the Alps, then explore the region’s flower-filled meadows, rolling hills and panoramic mountain ranges. The Kitzbühel mountains are also home to wildlife like red deer, chamois and marmots.

One of the most popular hiking trails is the

one leading to the Sintersbacher Waterfalls in Jochberg. Gushing from a height of 165m, it is arguably the most spectacular in the alpine region, particularly during the spring snowmelt from April to June.

rivers and creeks, and can be enjoyed by cyclists of all ages. Popular routes include the breathtaking loop around Pillersee Lake, as well as the scenic Bichlach region, with its idyllic ponds and traditional farms.

Legendary Cycling Kitzbühel is also perfect for cyclists and has played host to major international cycling races for decades.

Other Activities Those who prefer to relax can head to Schwarzsee Lake, one of the warmest and most beautiful moor lakes in the Alps. Its rich mud content gives the waters healing properties, making it a popular destination for swimmers and sunbathers.

Road racers have 14 courses spanning more than 1,000km to choose from. The scenic street leading up to the Kitzbühel Horn is Austria’s steepest cycling road and one of the most challenging climbs in professional cycling, making it a legendary classic among road cyclists everywhere.

Mountain bikers too are spoilt for choice, with some 800km of rugged paths and trails to explore. Many of these trails run alongside

Other summer activities in Kitzbühel include rock climbing, rafting, canyoning and paragliding. Visitors can also look out for exciting events such as the Kitzbühel Alpine Rally, starting on 30 May, which will see celebrities and racing legends such as Michael Schumacher take to the roads in some of the finest classic cars.

If you're looking for a scenic holiday with a conservation element, then Australia's Penguin Protection and Coastal Conservation might be your thing.

AUSTRALIA

The tour takes you along the spectacular Great Ocean Road, where you'll spend the day assisting with local conservation projects like tree planting. Along the way, you'll get to visit the famous Twelve Apostles and the Loch Ard Gorge for some of Australia's most breathtaking coastal views.

GETTING THERE MELBOURNE

Great Ocean Road

Phillip Island

Then you'll get to Phillip Island, where you can stop over at the Koala Conservation Centre and visit Churchill Island’s Heritage Farm before experiencing the Penguin Parade in the evening, where you'll get to see these cute little penguins come ashore after a day's fishing.

The next day is when you'll get to experience life as a ranger on the island, where you'll get to assist in activities aimed at protecting the local penguin and wildlife population.

Starting and ending in Melbourne, this 5-day tour is one of the best ways to experience 2 of Victoria's best natural attractions.

STA Travel is an Aussie travel specialist that’s accredited by Tourism Australia. The 5-day Penguin Protection and Coastal Conservation tour starts from US$1,037 per person, excluding airfare. STA Travel can help you book your flights along with the tour.

FOR MORE INFO, LOG ON TO:

www.statravel.com.sg/tours-and-treks.htm fb.com/STATravel.sg

OR CALL 6737 7188 / 6773 9188

© Visit Flam / Photographer: R. M. Sørensen

One of the easiest ways to see all the best that Norway has to offer – from its countless waterfalls to breathtaking fjords, picturesque countryside and mountainous landscape – is to take a journey that combines the best of the country's railway routes.

EXPLORING NORWAY’S FLÅM

Part of 'Norway in a Nutshell', the journey includes a scenic train ride on the Bergen Railway and the Flåm Railway.

Completed in 1909, the Bergen Railway is Northern Europe's highest stretch of railway, connecting Oslo to Bergen on a 500km-long line that cuts through a spectacularly varied Norwegian landscape, starting from open countryside and wooded valleys, to wild mountain plateaus and of course, the fjords of Western Norway.

Starting from the capital of Oslo, the ride calls in at several towns along the way, including the picture-perfect village of Flåm, which encapsulates the best Norway has to offer in terms of natural and pastoral scenery.

FLÅM RAILWAY Halfway along the Bergen Railway at Myrdal, the journey breaks with the transfer of trains to the Flåm Railway, which takes you down from 866m to Flåm on the valley floor.

A masterpiece of engineering, the Flåm Railway (completed in 1944) is the steepest normal gauge railway in Northern Europe that took 20 years to build, as 18 of the line's 20 tunnels were dug by hand.

The first tunnel along the route is a hairpin tunnel which makes a 180º turn inside the mountain in order to manage the steep gradient. You can see these tunnels from the outside as the train descends into the valley.

Scheduled Stops The first stop is Vatnahalsen, a popular reststop for hikers and cyclists along the Navvies' Road. The area offers beautiful walking and skiing in summer and winter.

There is also a short stop at the 94m-high Kjosfossen waterfall, a magnificent sight made more interesting with a 5-minute dance performance which tells the legend of Huldre, a lady dressed in blue who entices young men to marry (and fall in love with) her in order for her to shed her cow tail.

Navvies’ Road Along the way, you will also be able to see part of the Navvies' Road that zig zags down the mountain through 21 sharp bends.

Named for the workers who used it during the railway construction, the 84km-long Navvies' Road is now is one of Norway's best cycling experiences that takes you from the roof of the country right down to the fjord. The terrain is vastly varied, ranging from gradual climbs to steep descents past thundering waterfalls, valleys, cottages and wild countryside.

The section after Kjosfossen is the steepest section of the Navvies', and cyclists are required to change into a new set of brakes on just one descent.

Landscape The 20km-long train ride takes roughly an hour to the village of Flåm via the rugged and scenic Flåm valley, with its shifting panorama of mountain farms clinging onto sheer slopes, rivers cutting into deep ravines and waterfalls cascading down the snow-capped mountains. In spring, the meltwater from the mountains cascade into the valley via hundreds of waterfalls.

In the valley, you can see goats grazing in the open grassland and on the hillsides. Flåm is famous for its goat's cheese, which is caramel-coloured and creamier than white cheese, as well as dried goat meats.

Further down, the Flåmsvela river – which is popular for salmon and trout fishing – cuts through the old village of Flåm before reaching the fjord. Surrounded by steep mountains, the valley is dotted with plentiful fruit trees.

The train pulls into its terminus station at Flåm, which is right next to the ferry pier.

This is where you’ll catch the next leg of your journey – by ferry – to Gudvangen.

However, Flåm is worth at least an overnight stop, where you can explore the fjord and its villages.

FLÅM Flåm is located at the innermost point of the Aurlandsfjord, which is part of the larger Sognefjord (one of the world's longest and deepest). With a number of hotels and guest houses, it is a great base to explore the fjords and mountains in the area.

Exploring the Fjords You can arrange for a variety of activities, including a fjord tour on board a speeding RIB boat. It’s the easiest way to get to the farming village of Undredal where you can sample some local goat's cheese and dried cuts. Along the way, you can see hundreds of waterfalls and some small villages that cling onto the sides of the mountains.

As an alternative, you can also hire kayaks to explore the fjord.

Mountain Biking You can also hire a mountain bike from the visitor's centre and explore the flat valleys and its farms.

For more adventure, you can tackle the legendary Navvies' Road; take the bike on the train to Vatnahalsen and cycle down the 21 hairpin bends alongside a thundering waterfall. The distance is 17km from Vatnahalsen back to Flåm, and the brakes on the rental bikes are changed after each descent.

Hiking Hiking is another popular all-season activity, and a favourite trail is one to the Brekkefossen waterfall, which takes about 2 hours return. There are also hiking possibilities along the Navvies' Road (take the train to Vatnahalsen and follow the trail down), as well as to Vidme farm (600m) and Gudmedalen (800m), which offers pleasant views of the mountain plateau.

Cultural Walks You can take an easy walk to the 17th century Flåm Church (6km/1.5 hours) – a famous landmark in the valley as it’s the only black church – along a gravel road.

Another point of interest in Flåm is the cluster of 26 traditional colourful wooden buildings (with Norway's signature turf roofs) at Otternes. Tucked at the edge of a hill, this 12th century farm is now a museum, with impressive hillside views over the Aurlandsfjord.

BEYOND FLÅM From Flåm’s, you can hop on a ferry that takes you through Norway's classic fjordlands, including the UNESCO-listed Naerøyfjord. At only 250m wide at its narrowest, it is surrounded by 1,660m-high mountains.

After 2 hours, you’ll reach Gudvangen, where you can catch the bus and continue along the ‘Norway in a Nutshell’ route.

© Visit Flam / Photographer: Morten Rakke

PRACTICALITIES The Norway in a Nutshell tour can be done year round. Summer is always packed with crowds, but the up side is that all shops, attractions and accommodation are guaranteed to open.

In May, you might be able to pack in a few days of skiing at Geilo and whitewater rafting near Voss.

For more on Flåm and its railway, visit www.visitflam.com.

© Visit Flam / Photographer: R. M. Sørensen

Taiwan has been shaped by complex tectonic movement, resulting in the country's very unique geology. The Northeast Coast Scenic Area encapsulates this incredible diversity of landforms within a small area, and is in fact a miniature projection of the country.

Starting from the Sandiaojiao, the coastal landform has been sculpted by the elements into odd shaped rocks. Further south, Bitou Cape features sea cliffs and undercut bluffs, while Longdong Cape's steep sandstone cliffs give way to wave-eroded platforms and tofu rock landforms at Beiguan. In between, there is a 3km stretch of golden beach between Yanliao and Fulong.

For more on the Northeast Coast Scenic Area, visit www.necoast-nsa.gov.tw.

GOLDEN FULONG ROUTE There are several ways to enjoy this scenic area: you can travel by car along the coast, cycle the same road by bicycle, or explore it from the water on board a sea kayak.

Another alternative is to take the local bus - known as the Golden Fulong Route - that stops at places of interest along the way.

The bus links Fulong Visitor Center and Ruifang Railway Station, stopping at popular spots like Jiufen, Longdong and Bitou along the way. Tickets are available on the bus, and frequency is between 30-60 minutes.

PHOTOS FROM Taiwan Visitors Association

MAP OF TAIWAN

Eastern Sea

Jiufen

Bitou Cape Longdong

Ruifang

TAIPEI

Fulong Caoling Bikepath

TAIWAN NORTHEAST

YILAN

TTB-AD

TAIWAN’S NORTHEAST COAST FULONG Located within a gorge that is cut by the Shuangsi River, Fulong is characterised by rippling layers of terraced fields and river terraces. From Taipei, most visitors take the bus or train to Fulong Train Station, which was opened in 1924 during the Japanese colonial period. The journey is dotted with spectacular valleys and vestiges of the mining industry.

Fulong is known for its classic beach setting, and the golden sands at Fulong extends for about 3km from Yenliao. This stretch of soft, fine white sand makes it popular for swimmers, surfers and beachgoers. The beach itself is separated from the mainland, and you can access it via a bridge.

Another popular activity here is cycling. You can rent a bike from rental stores near the visitor's centre. From the Fulong Train Station, you can ride through the historic Old Caoling Tunnel Bikeway which takes you to the east coast with a nice view of Gueishan (Turtle Island) just offshore.

The 2.16km section of the disused railway tunnel takes 15 minutes to cycle through, and you can ride back to Fulong via the extended bikeway along the coastal highway after the tunnel's southern exit.

The gentle slopes and curves take you past a plethora of hotspots, including Lailai Marine Terrace’s spectacular geological formations, Sandiaojiao with its lighthouse that was built by the Japanese in 1935, and Mao'ao Village’s centuries' old stone cottages.

Alternatively, you can take a coastal hike along the 8.7km Caoling Historic Trail (built in 1807), which takes you through thick woodland and past the elaborately-carved Tiangong Temple before ending at the grassy headland with views over the coast and its sloping 'tofu rocks' that fall dramatically into the pounding surf.

After the 3-4 hour hike, you can refuel with the popular Fulong bento box lunch, available near the railway station.

Fulong Sand Sculpture Art Festival Every year at the Fulong Sand Sculpture Art Festival, teams from all over the world compete to build the largest and most elaborate displays of sand art possible, sculpting intricate yet mammoth statues of goddesses and dragons, some stretching to 30m long and 25m wide.

Of the 44 works by 35 international artists from as far as Canada and Latvia, this year’s winner was from Singapore, who created a sculpture of Chinese general Guan Yu. Happening annually from May till June, the displays are open to the public until the 24th of June. For more on events along the coast, visit events.necoast-nsa.gov.tw.

Famous for its gorgeous sun-soaked sandstone cliffs, Longdong is Taiwan's premier destination for sea cliff rock climbing, and is arguably one of the best spots in the world. Over 600 routes criss-cross their way throughout the cliff faces that are about 30m high, providing enough challenge to anyone from beginners to pros. There are easy 5.4 climbs suitable for first-timers, as well as fiercely overhanging 5.14 testpieces tough enough to challenge some top sport climbers. Climbers will be rewarded with excellent views over Bitou Cape, Sandiao Cape and Aodi Bay. The cliff faces aren't the only attraction at Longdong. Head to the bay - which looks

like a coiling dragon with a hole (hence its name 'Dragon's Cave') - for a spot of swimming, snorkelling and even diving.

There are also professional coaches here who can teach you skin diving (free diving).

Diving at Longdong can be a tad cold, but the clear underwater terrain houses a lot of nudibranchs and cowries, as well as porcupine fish, leaf fish and scorpionfish. The prized sighting is of the rare Weedy scorpionfish. Divers access the dive site from Longdong Bay, where you walk over rocks to the entry and exit point. Dive trips (and lessons) can be arranged at any of the PADI dive operators at Longdong.

Taiwan

LONGDONG

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On the Wedding Route (5.8), Music Hall, Long Dong Š Matt Robertson

BITOU CAPE One of the 3 capes along the north coast, Bitou Cape is noted for its beautiful sea-eroded cliffs and fantastic coastal views. The undulating Bitou Cape Trail takes you to different aspects of the area, passing dramatic coastal cliffs and geological formations as old as 60 million years.

The sea-eroded platforms here are more fully developed than anywhere else in Taiwan, and feature an odd collection of rock formations, with shapes like mushrooms and honeycombs dotted with marine fossils.

The footpath ends at Bitou Cape Lighthouse (built in 1896), which sits at 120m above sea level on the edge of the cliff, affording splendid vistas of the area.

JIUFEN Jiufen was a prosperous gold mining town until the 1950s when it went into decline when mining was discontinued. However, thanks to its location on a mountainside with stunning views of the Pacific Ocean, this historic town was revived as a location for several Taiwanese movies.

Today, Jiufen exudes old-world charm, which you can experience by taking a walk through its narrow lanes, or trying tea at its many traditional teahouses (complete with steaming iron kettles and fragrant bundles of tea).

The main area of interest is its historic commercial district which can be covered on foot along the 2 pedestrian streets that run up and down the hill.

RUIFANG RAILWAY STATION The old-fashioned Ruifang Railway Station has been the link from this small town to the outside world since it was completed in 1919 during the Japanese colonial period. You can explore the subway which is reminiscent of the town's heyday as a mining town.

GETTING THERE The Northeast Coast Scenic Area is easily accessible from Taipei by car, bus or train.

There are train stations at both Fulong and Ruifang, which are accessible from Taipei in around an hour. From either of these stations, you can hop on the Golden Fulong Route bus that takes you along the northeast coast.

For more on the Golden Fulong Route, visit www.gold-fulong.com.tw. For more on Taiwan, visit www.taiwan.net.tw.

WHALE WATCHING Taiwan's eastern coast attracts a number of migrating whale species, ranging from Killer Whales to the smaller False Killer Whales, alongside the large bump-headed Sperm Whales and Humpback Whales, with their ribbed and dotted underbellies.

Sharing the waters are a number of dolphin species like Bottlenose, Common, Pantropical Spotted, Risso's and Spinner dolphins, which tend to spin like ballerinas as they leap in the air.

Whale Tours While there are around 4 areas along the east coast where you can take whale watching tours, Yilan is the nearest port to Taipei.

At Wushih Harbor alone, there are over 10 whale-watching companies that provide tours to the nearby Gueishan (Turtle Island) that lies just offshore. Gueishan is Taiwan's only active undersea volcano (with a seabed of over 110ยบC), and this oceanic hot spring's sulfur-rich waters provide an abundant food source for the whale and dolphin population.

On any given whale-watching trip, pods of dolphins often shadow boats and there is a higher chance of seeing whales breaching or playing in the waters just offshore from Gueishan between March and October.

In addition to whale watching, some companies combine activities like rafting and squidfishing to the experience. As Wushih Harbor

is now a fishery centre, you can enjoy fresh seafood from the local waters after a whalewatching excursion.

Trips are possible when Gueishan is open to the public from March to November, before closing during the northeast monsoon. As it is a fragile and protected area, landings are restricted by permit (400 on weekdays and 500 on weekends). Most boat companies provide 2-3 cruises a day, lasting 2-3 hours each trip.

Those interested will need to book the trip 3 weeks prior to arrival to guarantee spots on the boats.

For more, visit www.whalewatching.org.tw.

Natural running (or barefoot running) has been the biggest movement to hit running and the outdoor industry in years but what is it really all about and is it for you?

Natural running sounds simple but if you are used to regular running shoes, barefoot running will take some getting used to. Here are some tips: • Start slow and build. Begin by running approximately 10% of your usual distance in minimalist shoes. You will be using different muscles and if you run your normal distance you will pay for it in the long run (pun intended).

Ken grew up on the doorstep of the Canadian wilderness, backpacking, paddling and rock climbing in this rugged land. Armed with a degree in recreational studies, he has been working at Canada's premier outdoor retailer for over 10 years, putting gear to the test whether it's cycling in -35ºC winters, running marathons or travelling to the far reaches of the planet.

months to a year to transition to minimalist shoes.

People who follow this theory feel that the extra padding on traditional running shoes encourages runners to heel strike, which throws your body’s natural mechanics off.

With “barefoot” or minimalist shoes you are more likely to strike in either the middle of your foot or your forefoot to allow you to use your ankles and knees to absorb the impact. Traditional shoes have approximately 10-13mm of drop from the heel to the forefoot, true minimalist shoes have 0mm. Minimalist shoes are also very flexible and will build strength in your feet and still have some padding to protect your feet from debris on the ground.

GEAR GUY: Ken Berg

• If you feel any pain in your feet, stop. In fact, carry a pair of your traditional shoes on your first few runs.

• Find minimalist shoes that you can use wear for all your everyday activities. However, as with running, start slow and build.

• Run with a high cadence. If you take short quick strides, you’ll be more likely to land mid foot as opposed to long slow strides which tend to encourage heel striking. The ideal cadence is 180 strides per minute; play songs of 180 beats per minute on your iPod to help you keep the pace.

• Consider transition shoes like the Nike Free. They still have a decent amount of padding and come in a variety of drop off from 7mm to 3mm.

• Take your time. Estimates take anywhere from 6

Where can you find minimalist shoes?

Everywhere. It seems that every footwear brand has minimalist shoes. Try on your current favourite brand of shoes and see how they fit. Vibram Five Fingers seem to be the most popular, but if you want the same general design without the look and feel of a toe sock you could also try Merrell’s “Barefoot” collection.

So should you start natural running?

If you are already running regularly and are happy and injury-free, then perhaps you don’t need to change. If you’re having injury issues, natural running may be part of the solution. Regardless, the main thing is finding something that allows you to stay motivated and have fun. However it is recommended that you consult with a medical professional beforehand especially if you have a history of injury.

TEXT AND PHOTOS BY Adrian Bottomley

Straddling the border between Yunnan and Tibet sits one of the Buddhist world’s most holy mountains; Kawa Karpo or “white pillar” in Tibetan. Worshipped as a deity, it has never been climbed and remains a remnant and icon of the ancient bon religion – an animistic tradition based on the concept of a world pervaded by good and evil spirits that inhabit forests, rivers and mountains.

Every year, thousands of hardy and devout Tibetans arrive to circumambulate the revered peak in one of the region’s most sacred pilgrimages. To trek in unison with the wildlooking nomads in their quest to purify a lifetime of negative karma, is one of Asia’s epic mountain adventures.

Environmentally, this untouched part of China also has a wide variety of spectacular landscapes with the trekking route winding its way through sub-tropical scrub, arid canyons, moss-laden forests, alpine meadows and snow-capped peaks.

The topographic extremes along the kora (Tibetan pilgrimage) are immense. Within a stretch of less than 10 kms, the land rises from 1,800m along the Mekong River valley to 6,740m at the summit of Kawa Karpo.

Getting to the start of the trek is a stunning journey in itself. Driving for most part of a day, the road crosses over high mountain passes with huge vistas over the Eastern

TACKLING THE KORA

TREKKING YUNNAN'S SACRED PEAK Himalayas. Laid back Tibetan villages such as Benzilan and the beautifully muraled Dongzhuling Monastery, offer a number of intriguing options to break up the journey as the road heads further off the beaten track.

Spending the night in Fei Lai Si rewards you with the most spectacular views of Kawa Karpo and its triangular female counterpart, Miancimu, especially on a clear dawn when their jagged ridges catch the amber glow of early morning rays.

Embarking on the challenging 12-day trek first involves a visit to the Zhizingtang monastery to collect the symbolic “key” to the kora. It’s here that Tibetan pilgrims seek spiritual inspiration and prepare mindfully for their epic journey.

The first section of more than 180km in the days ahead begins with the crossing of an old chain bridge over the Mekong River before ascending through a picturesque valley to the village of Yongzi.

From here the goal for the next two days is the first of 6 high altitude passes at Dokar La. The path winds up through primordial forests with lichen hanging from the branches like old party streamers, while the mind starts to settle, mesmerised by the hypnotic ringing of the caravan pony bells.

The first of the great passes, Dokar La (4,479m) offers incredible views of the surrounding peaks. It is colourfully draped with thousands of fluttering prayer flags and covered with offerings of zhaba flour and yak butter. The kora is dotted with many

sacred sites, including springs where pilgrims stop to collect water to take home for their families, as well as small shrines where further offerings of clothes, food and money are left to be used when retracing the route in their next life.

Arriving in the pretty village of Abing, down in the Salween River valley, the scenery suddenly becomes more barren and remains strikingly arid and dotted with cacti, as the trek ascends once again towards the isolated Tibetan village of Gebu. Magnificent views of snowy peaks slowly replace the huge pine trees. The introspection that comes from meandering through lichen forests is eventually lifted by enormous blue skies.

Ahead lies the mighty red and grey Shola pass (4,800m) beckoning both pilgrims and trekkers with its other-worldly beauty. In ancient times, this was the biggest test of willpower for traders transporting tea

along this ancient trade route into Tibet and India.

The revered shrine at the top is piled high with offerings of clothes and bamboo walking sticks. The haunting, high altitude pass is not a place to linger for too long before you have to descend to the most scenic campsite on the kora at Zhaxi pasture.

China

THE TREK

27

With Shola in the rear, the kora is nearing its end. The final day is spent hiking past grazing yaks, crystal clear streams and immense forest, before the trail finally terminates at the main road.

GETTING THERE Hong Kong-based adventure-travel operators Whistling Arrow regularly run the Kawa Karpo Kora trip (19 days total) with the next scheduled departure from June 6 – 24, coinciding with the largest horse festival in the region on June 23. Beginning and ending in Shangri-la, Northern Yunnan is accessible via Kunming (where the trip starts) with direct flights from Singapore. For more, visit www.whistlingarrow.com.

Cycling tours are gaining popularity around the region in recent years, especially to destinations like Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos, as well as to less developed areas like Tibet, Yunnan and western Sichuan. If you're looking for an epic ride with high altitudes and the world's longest downhill, then a ride along the Friendship Highway should top your list.

From the ancient Buddhist monasteries to inspiring views of Mt Everest, a journey along the Friendship Highway that links Lhasa to Kathmandu is quite possibly a life-changing journey. This highway to the 'Rooftop of the World' begins in Lhasa at 3,650m, traversing 1,100km over 5 panoramic passes exceeding 4,500m before finishing in the fertile Kathmandu Valley.

TEXT AND PHOTOS BY Shangrila Adventures

If this sounds breathtaking, the highland weather and geographical characteristics will certainly take you through your paces, but if you want to immerse yourself in Tibetan culture against the backdrop of the stunning Himalayas, then this is your best option.

The Friendship Highway is a popular cycling and overland route across one of the most well-travelled borders between the two countries, taking you from the highland plateau of Tibet in China to the valleys of Nepal.

LHASA The Friendship Highway starts from Lhasa, where you can spend a couple of days acclimatising by visiting some monasteries in this sacred city. The 13-storey Potala Palace is the dominant structure in the city, and has commanding views of the Lhasa valley. Dat-

LHASA TO KATHMANDU

ing back to the 7th century, this Buddhist Palace comprises over 1,000 rooms and contains thousands of shrines and statues, taking about 3 hours to tour the palace.

From the pass, enjoy the outstanding views of Yamdrok Tso and Kula Kangri (7,550m) before descending towards the lake past prayer flags that adorn the pass.

Other sites in and around Lhasa include Norbulingka (the former summer palace of the 14th Dalai Lama), Drepung monastery (famous for its scholarly monks) and Ganden monastery which is set in a natural amphitheatre with spectacular views.

More spectacular scenery – from dramatic mountains to white glaciers – is to be had on the ascent to Karo La (5,010m) before enjoying lots of downhill rides towards Gyantse.

LHASA TO SHIGATSE From Lhasa, the southern route takes you towards Shigatse via the beautiful Yamdrok Tso lake with views of Karo La Glacier. After crossing the Tsangpo Bridge, the route ascends to the Khamba La, climbing steeply for about 1,200m.

Gyantse has a large Tibetan population, and its architectural heritage is left largely unscathed from the rampant Chinese development in the area. You can visit the sprawling Palcho Monastery (with its elaborate pagodas, dagobas and thangkas) and the Old Quarter before setting off towards Shigatse (3,900m), the biggest town in the traditional capital of Tsang.

The traditional seat of the Panchen Lama, the 600 year old city of Shigatse houses dozens of monasteries, including the resplendent Tashihunpo Monastery (built in 1447) with its golden roof and bright red walls.

From Shigatse, the vast and stark Tibetan plateau is spread out along the route before as you ride up to the Tso La pass (4,599m) for a long 9km descent. The next pass is the Gyatso La, which at 5,250m, is the highest pass along the Friendship Highway and is decorated with a monument of prayer flags.

After Xegar, the tarmac road of the Friendship Highway gets dustier and

steeper and the landscape looks more Eraw and wind-beaten. From the windy Pang La (5,200m) pass, you'll get a moment to enjoy the sweeping views of Mt. Everest and the Himalayan chain.

From here, the road descends into Rongbuk Valley, where you can visit the famous Rongbuk Monastery.

Founded in 1902 and sitting at 5,150m, this is the highest temple in the world and is home to practising monks and nuns. There is a large chorten embedded in its terraced structure here, which dramatically marks this last human dwelling place before heading up the stark valley towards Everest Base Camp.

A short hike from this 5-tier building leads you to the Rongbuk Glacier Zone, which is fed by Mt. Everest and is the largest glacial area around, although it is melting at a rapid rate due to global climate change.

Monastery is the Everest Base Camp (5,200m), which is the highlight of the trip. can enjoy views of the north face of Mt Everest (8,850m) in its full glory on a clear day.

Tibet-Nepal

SHIGATSE TO RONGBUK

29

GETTING THERE The best season for riding the Friendship Highway is April to October (best month is September), with temperatures ranging from 0ยบ to 15ยบC depending on altitude and weather conditions.

If cycling it the entire way, the route takes about 26 days to complete, so adding a vehicle support 60% of the way means compressing the trip to just 14 manageable days, and trips can be arranged via local outfitter Shangrila Adventure (www.shangrila-adventure.com).

RONGBUK TO KATHMANDU From Everest Base Camp, the road descends to the valley of Tashi-Zong and the small town of Tingri (4,340m). From here, the dusty track turns into a paved road that brings you to Gutsuo which is a short distance to the final high pass of the Friendship Highway the Tong La. After traversing some lung-busting passes (at 4,950m and 5,200m), the road starts to

drop along one of the world's longest and most exhilarating downhill rides, descending some 3,000m from the Tibetan plateau to the valleys of Kathmandu.

From here, the lushness of Nepal opens up as you descend further downhill to Zangmu (2,300m) and Kodari (1,170m), where the Chinese immigration post is located. Once passports are cleared, you can cross the 50m-long Friendship Bridge that spans a

deep ravine separating Tibet and Nepal. In the middle of the bridge is a military post past that is Nepal.

The journey continues along the Sun Kosi river (where you can try bungy-jumping) which takes you to Dhulikhel before hitting the final stop of the trip: Kathmandu. You can ride around the Kathmandu Valley rim into Nala and the ancient city of Bhaktapur, and enjoy the bustle of Kathmandu city.

South America

31 From dazzling panoramas to entertaining festivals and steaming geysers, a trip to the Andean highlands of Chile, Bolivia and Peru will literally take your breath away. Starting from the stark flatlands of northern Chile, the route takes you north towards the colourful highlands in Bolivia before reaching Peru and its cultural gems at Cusco and Machu Picchu.

TEXT BY Tsalina Phang PHOTOS BY WanGoDo Travel

HIGHLANDS OF CHILE, BOLIVIA AND PERU CHILE San Pedro de Atacama The adobe brown San Pedro de Atacama, about 1,500km north of Santiago near the border with Bolivia, is considered the archeological capital of Chile. Native ruins and relics of pre-Columbian cultures are the draw here, as well as activities like sandboarding and stargazing.

Nearby, the Valle de la Luna (Moon Valley) has been carved by floods, wind and time, creating an otherworldly moonscape of ridges and rock formations dotted with old Chilean salt mines and huts. You can sit on the edge of this 'crater' and bask in the golden glow of sunset.

El Tatio Head to the El Tatio geyser field for spectacular sunrise the next morning. The largest geyser field in the Southern Hemisphere, it has over 80 steaming active geysers; you can actually boil your breakfast eggs and luxuriate in the natural rock pools here.

BOLIVIA Uyuni Salt Plains A 4WD ride will take you towards Bolivia, crossing the high antiplano at 4,900m. At this point, guides will advise you to chew on coca leaves, which is a local antidote for altitude sickness, as well as to promote stamina. The strong grassy-tasting leaves can also be infused as tea.

In this harsh, seemingly inhospitable environment of acridity, unrelenting sun and bitter cold nights, you will find an abundance of wildlife and colourful panoramas.

The twin lakes of the emerald Laguna Verde (surrounded by grazing alpaca and vicuña) and the blazing pink Laguna Colorada (punctuated by graceful flamingoes) are incredibly photogenic.

Then you pass the aptly-named Mountain of 7 Colours, with its Dali-esque rock forma-

tions, before reaching Uyuni, the largest salt plain in the world.

Spanning 10,582sq.kms. and said to contain 10 billion tonnes of salt, the bright white starkness of Salar de Uyuni stretches out and disappears into the horizon.

streets and watch the locals go about their daily lives, peruse Calle Sagarnaga for colourful souvenirs and explore the Mercado de Hechiceria (Witches Market) to have your pick of talismans. The ubiquitous dried llama fetus allegedly brings luck when buried in the foundations of a newly built house.

La Paz An overnight bus ride takes you to the working silver mines of Potosi, and offers a sad glimpse into the tough working life of the locals. Token donations of provisions and coca leaves are encouraged here.

While Bolivia’s capital is Sucre, it’s biggest city La Paz is the de facto seat of government and the highest “capital” in the world (3,600m). The city's buildings and streets cling to a steep side of a huge natural bowl that is backed by the snow-capped Andes.

You can take a walk throughout the steep

GETTING THERE Locally-based adventure travel outfitter WanGoDo Travel organises regular trips to South America, including to Bolivia and Peru. For early bird specials, vist www.wangodo.com.

PERU Cusco A direct flight from La Paz takes you to Cusco, which was sacred to the Incas and the centre of the Incan Empire. Ruins are strewn across this region, ranging from beautiful experimental agricultural fields and working ceremonial baths to mighty strongholds and temples.

These can easily be navigable by private transport, on foot and on horseback. For an in-depth knowledge of these sites, an English-speaking guide can explain their significance and history.

More community-based activities include exploring towns famous for their fortunetelling witches, bread-making and cuy (guinea pig), where you can sample this Peruvian Andean delicacy.

Sacred Valley Sacred Valley is renowned in the region for its outstanding local produce. Visit an organic farm to learn about organic farming techniques, pick fruits and enjoy dinner sourced from the garden.

There are several community-based activities you can engage in here. At an authentic weaving house in the town of Chinchero, you can interact with the Quecha women to learn about the traditional weaving process and the use of organic dyes; an ancient process that still survives today with the assistance of several NGOs. The community of Chichubamba run short workshops where you can learn their skills in chocolate-making, bee-keeping and chicha (traditional corn-based beer) brewing.

Untouched by the outside world until it was revealed in 1911 by Hiram Bingham, this sacred site is dotted with temples which are aligned to the stars and the movement of the earth. Visit the 3 primary structures – Hitching Post of the Sun, Temple of the Sun and Room of Three Windows – and hike to the Inca bridge that clings to the sheer cliffface, hinting at the audacity of the ancient Incan builders.

The most common hiking route up to Machu Picchu is the legendary Inca Trail. This strenuous 4-day hike normally needs an advance

booking of 5 months during peak season.

Entrance is limited to 500 visitors per day, and the trail is closed every February for trail maintenance.

The alternative route to Machu Picchu is a 2-day hike through the Lares Valley, which is surrounded by peaceful mountains, grassy landscapes, reflective waterholes and grazing alpacas. As you hike through the valley, you will cross bubbling brooks and interact with local farmers and villagers.

The hike ends at the natural hot spring site of Lares, where you can get a rewarding soak.

From here, transfer to the panoramic train to

FESTIVALS If visiting in September, you can catch 2 very colourful local festivals.

The Lord of Huanca Festival is where thousands of devotees – who often arrive with new cars dressed to the hilt in flowers – from Peru and the surrounding countries visit the Sanctuary of Huanca to receive blessings.

The Warachikuy Festival celebrates the traditional ceremony where young men have to pass initiation tests to gain their citizenship, rights to marry and go to battle. The stage for this performance is the remarkable Incan ruins of Sacsayhuaman, with a beautiful backdrop of Cusco city.

Aguas Calientes, which is the gateway to Machu Picchu.

Upon arrival at Machu Picchu, take a guided tour to acquaint yourself with the site before tackling other activities like hiking to the Sun Gate (the traditional entrance into Machu Picchu via the Inca Trail), or a challenging 1.5-hour ascent to Huanya Picchu for a spectacular view.

South America

Machu Picchu Probably the most famous landmark in Peru is Machu Picchu, which is draped in a spectacular location high in the mountains amidst swirling clouds.

33

TEXT BY Clara Lock ADDITIONAL REPORTING James Cruikshank PHOTOS BY James Cruikshank

The skyline of Myanmar looks set for change. After the country opened its doors to reform with democratic elections this year, modernisation looks set to descend upon this up-and-coming Southeast Asian nation.

VISITING BAGAN

Yangon, Myanmar’s largest city, is already awash with over four million inhabitants and the accompanying confusion. Streets are crammed with vendors hawking everything from books to umbrellas, and resound with the cacophony of honking cars and buses.

BAGAN Before economic progress takes over every last corner of tranquility in this Buddhist nation, seek out your very own pocket of calm in Bagan, an area in the Mandalay region that is home to the largest concentration of Buddhist temples, stupas and ruins in the world.

One day Bagan will be mentioned in the same breath as the Angkor Wat and other ancient archaeological sites around the region. For now, though, it is an underrated gem, still largely untouched by touts and tourists, and you should arrive post haste while it is still as such.

Located about 640km north of Yangon, Bagan began constructing their Buddhist

temples in 1057 and has not stopped till present day. The temples and pagodas, ranging in size from1m to 60m tall, are spread across a 32km rural area, which you can explore on foot or bicycle. But if you don’t want to be baked to a crisp in the searing midday sun, charter a horse and cart for the day to travel among the temples at a leisurely pace, with the driver doubling up as your guide.

KNOW YOUR CUSTOMS You don’t want to go all the way to Bagan only to offend the higher powers, so be aware of the appropriate Buddhist customs.

When observing the sites, it is respectful to walk around them in a clockwise direction.

This sends your prayers out into the cosmic

oneness of the universe, while walking counter-clockwise is said to negate someone else’s prayers, and brings about negative karma.

Dress modestly – cover up your arms and legs before entering a temple. A longyi, or a long piece of cloth similar to a sarong, will have you all set for temple trotting and makes for a good souvenir too. Longyis are unisex, though custom dictates that men and women tie theirs differently.

Before entering the pagoda complexes, it is mandatory to remove your footwear. This rule is steeped in the ancient monastic code, which says that monks and nuns are not allowed to teach Buddhism to anyone wearing shoes.

The 800 year old Mahabodhi Temple of Bagan is modeled after the Bodhi temple in India where the Buddha attained enlightenment. The two-storey structure features over 400 images of the Buddha in various seated positions. Seven monuments in the compound mark the Satta Htana, seven spots where the Buddha meditated, for a week each, after he attained enlightenment.

Every day, worshippers and Buddhist monks take their place in front of the scores of statues and pavilions located around the temple complex. Find a spot amidst their soothing chants and trancelike prayer and feel your worldly concerns ebb away.

THE BIGGEST, BOLDEST AND OLDEST The biggest temple in Bagan is the Dhammayangyi Temple, which is also steeped in mystique. It is said that King Narathu, who built this temple, killed his father and older brother to ascend the throne, and then erected this temple to assuage his guilt. However, King Narathu was assassinated before construction of the temple was finished. Dham-

mayangyi, which boasts some of the most intricate brickwork in Bagan, is one of the few pyramid-shaped structures in the complex.

Meanwhile, the nearby Ananda is one of the most popular temples in Bagan. The 51 metre-high temple is spectacular even from afar, with a majestically gilded dome towering above the surrounding stupas. The structure, built to symbolise the Buddha’s infinite wisdom, also houses four standing statues of Buddha which represent nirvana, or a state of transcendence akin to heaven.

The bulbous structure of Bupaya, which means ‘a gourd shaped pagoda’, is said to be the oldest temple in Bagan.

STAIRWAY TO SUNSET Everyone, from canoodling couples to trigger-happy backpackers, loves a good sunset. And there are fewer places better than the Shwesandaw pagoda to catch one from. The 900 year old pagoda, which enshrines the hairs of the Buddha, rests atop five square terraces into which flights of stone stairs have been cut. Huff and puff your way to the top and be rewarded with the rosy hues of the setting sun, against a backdrop of sweet incense.

Myanmar

FINDING THE LIGHT

35

Legend has it that the before he came to power, the third king of Bagan managed to rid the riverbanks of a gourd-like creeper called ‘bu’. When he was rewarded with kingship, he built Bupaya to commemorate the occasion and his good fortune.

GETTING THERE There are a number of airlines that fly direct to Yangon, with onward domestic flights to Mandalay or Bagan.

After opening its doors to the world, there has been a slight influx of tourists visiting this once boycotted country. Because of this, the number of hotel rooms in the country cannot quite cope with the incoming visitors, so be aware that accommodation may not be easy to come by especially if you're planning a last minute trip.

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