Girl and the Grill by M. Elizabeth Sheldon

GIRL AND THE CHEF STEPHANIE IZARD OF CHICAGO’S GIRL & THE GOAT IS A GRILLING GENIUS. HERE, SHE GIVES A TUTORIAL TO HER HUSBAND, A CRAFT-BEER EXPERT—AND HE RETURNS THE FAVOR WITH A PAIRING LESSON. PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN KERNICK

J U N E 2015

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

food and prop stylist: susie theodorou

GRILL

T HER Chicago restaurant Girl & the Goat, Stephanie Izard relies on a roaring wood fire to char everything from broccoli and oysters to whole goat legs. Naturally, when the Top Chef winner and 2011 F&W Best New Chef moved into a new house with her husband, beer expert Gary Valentine, the first thing she did was install a top-of-the-line grill in the backyard. This is where she translates her favorite restaurant dishes into simple, extremely delicious home recipes—and where she offers ad hoc cooking advice to Valentine, a novice griller who jokingly refers to his culinary style as “trial by fire.” In exchange for Izard’s tutelage, Valentine shares his beer-pairing skills. Here’s their crash course. —M. ELIZABETH SHELDON

“Our dog, Burt, is our number one taste tester,” says Izard, here with her husband, Gary Valentine.

BREAD TIP For grilled bread with the

FIVE GREAT MIDWESTERN BREWERIES

right ratio of crisp crust to soft middle, cut slices at least ½ inch thick.

Open-Face Cheese Toasts with Broccoli Rabe Relish

STEPHANIE IZARD AND GARY VALENTINE CALL OUT A FEW FAVORITES:

Total 30 min; Serves 6

The quick relish here gets just the right tang from malt vinegar and funk from fish sauce.

DARK HORSE BREWING CO., MICHIGAN Izard is partial to the

2 Tbsp. canola oil, plus more for brushing

seasonal beers, like a blueberry ale, from this small upstart. darkhorsebrewery.com.

½ lb. broccoli rabe, trimmed and cut into ¾-inch pieces

PERENNIAL ARTISAN ALES, MISSOURI Unusual for Belgian-

1 cup thinly sliced red onion 2 Tbsp. Asian fish sauce

beer specialists, Perennial ages one ale in wine barrels for two years. perennialbeer.com.

2 Tbsp. malt vinegar Salt and pepper

OFF COLOR BREWING, ILLINOIS

Six ½-inch-thick slices cut from a sourdough boule

Off Color excels at innovating with obscure traditional styles like Gose, flavored with salt and coriander. offcolorbrewing.com.

½ lb. sharp cheddar cheese, sliced

BOULEVARD BREWING, MISSOURI

1. In a large skillet, heat the 2 tablespoons of oil until shimmering. Add the broccoli rabe and cook over high heat, tossing, until just starting to wilt, about 2 minutes. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until softened, about 3 minutes longer. Stir in the fish sauce and vinegar and season with salt and pepper. Let cool slightly.

A Midwest craft-beer pioneer; ferments all of its ales twice, once in-bottle. boulevard.com. 18th STREET BREWERY, INDIANA

Valentine predicts that this new brewery (known for a Double IPA called Sinister) will “become a big hitter in the next couple of years.” 18thstreetbrewery.com.

GRILL CLASS STARTER

MAIN

SIDES

Open-Face Cheese Toasts with Broccoli Rabe Relish (p. 89)

Grilled Shrimp with Shrimp Butter (p. 92)

Grilled Tomato Salad with Mozzarella and Unagi Sauce (p. 90)

Kalbi Ribs and Grilled Corn with Kalbi Butter (p. 92) and Charred Okra Relish (p. 112)

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DESSERT Charred Broccoli with Blue Cheese Dressing and Spiced Crispies

(p. 112)

Skillet Graham Cake with Peaches and Blueberries (p. 93)

Grilled Potato Salad with Mustard Seeds (p. 112)

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

2. Light a grill or preheat a grill pan. Lightly brush both sides of the bread with oil, then grill over moderate heat until lightly charred on the bottom, about 1 minute. Flip the bread and top with the sliced cheese and broccoli rabe relish. Close the grill and cook until the cheese is melted and the bread is browned and crisp, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a platter, cut in half and serve right away. CIDER Izard pairs these toasts

with a funky, dry cider from Virtue in Michigan, made by former beer brewer Gregory Hall. Her favorite is his singleorchard Nichols Farm & Orchard bottling because she also uses their produce. F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

While Korean short ribs marinate (p. 92), Izard slices grilled okra for a relish (p. 112). top: Chargrilled cheese toasts.

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Grilled Tomato Salad with Mozzarella and Unagi Sauce

1 Tbsp. canola oil, plus more for brushing

Total 45 min; Serves 6

Izard dresses the ultimate summer salad with a creamy version of unagi, a sweet-salty Japanese sauce typically brushed over eel. ¼ cup soy sauce ¼ cup mirin ¼ cup sugar 2 Tbsp. soju or sake ¹⁄³ cup mayonnaise 1 Tbsp. fresh lime juice Salt

completely, then whisk in the mayonnaise and lime juice and season with salt.

2 green (unripe) tomatoes, sliced ¼ inch thick

2. Light a grill or preheat a grill pan. Brush the green tomatoes with oil and season with salt. Grill over high heat, turning once, until lightly charred, 4 minutes. Transfer to a plate to cool, then cut into quarters.

2 cups yellow grape tomatoes, 1 cup halved 1 lb. fresh mozzarella cheese, sliced and torn into bite-size pieces 3 Tbsp. thinly sliced basil

3. In a perforated grill pan, toss the whole grape tomatoes with the 1 tablespoon of oil and season with salt. Grill over high heat, tossing occasionally, until lightly charred, about 2 minutes. Let cool slightly.

3 Tbsp. chopped mint

1. In a small saucepan, combine the soy sauce with the mirin, sugar and soju; bring to a boil. Simmer over moderate heat, stirring, until reduced to ¼ cup, about 12 minutes. Let cool

4. On a platter, toss the mozzarella with all of the tomatoes. Drizzle ½ cup of the unagi sauce over the salad and scatter the basil and mint on top. Serve, passing the remaining sauce at the table. MAKE AHEAD The unagi sauce can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Bring to room temperature before serving.

GLAZE TIP Keep any leftover unagi

BEER With this umami-rich salad, Izard pours Off Color Brewing Scurry Dark Honey Ale from Chicago, a take on the German Kottbusser beer that’s dry, despite being made with molasses and honey.

glaze from this tomato salad to drizzle on grilled steak or chicken.

WHAT STEPHANIE TAUGHT GARY ABOUT GRILLING SALT AS YOU GO Says Gary: “Steph taught me to salt a little here and a little there, not just at the beginning or end, because the salt will dissolve more evenly.” THINK THIN Thin cuts of meat, like short ribs (p. 92), are easier to cook than thick ones. To gauge doneness, “I use the smell test, like, ‘Smells done to me!’ ” Gary says.

SOUR BEERS GO WELL WITH FOOD “Sours are

crazy when you first try them,” says Stephanie, “but they pair really well with food”—even the cake on page 93. J U N E 2015

FUEL ADDS FLAVOR

“Steph’s wood oven at work adds so much flavor, so I’ve been trying different chips,” Gary says. “Peach wood is fantastic with steak.”

EVERY BEER HAS A PLACE “Some beers are

good for sipping on their own, like an IPA, while bigger beers [like Founders Black Rye ale] need to be tasted with food to be appreciated,” Stephanie says.

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NOT ALL HOPS ARE ALIKE

eat vegetables was a big part of our marriage,” says Stephanie, who made him a convert by marinating broccoli before grilling (p. 112).

Valentine finds the right beer to match buttery shrimp skewers (p. 92). above left: Warm potato salad (p. 112).

WHAT GARY TAUGHT STEPHANIE ABOUT BEER “I thought I hated hoppy beers,” says Stephanie, “but Gary taught me that there are two main kinds of hops: floral hops and more acidic citra hops. I’m partial to citra hops beers like 3 Floyds Zombie Dust.”

TREAT VEGETABLES LIKE STEAK “Getting Gary to

IT’S GETTING EASIER TO DRINK LOCAL

“There are so many new breweries in Chicago— the city is almost at pre-Prohibition levels,” Stephanie says.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

BEEF TIP Short ribs are a fantastic

FRUIT TIP When choosing fruit that you plan to

grilling cut; because they’re thin, they cook quickly and stay tender.

grill or bake, always be sure that it’s perfectly ripe but still quite firm.

Skillet Graham Cake with Peaches and Blueberries

Kalbi Ribs and Grilled Corn with Kalbi Butter

Active 1 hr; Total 3 hr 30 min Serves 10

Active 30 min; Total 1 hr 30 min Serves 6

This cake can also be baked in a 300° oven for the same amount of time.

¾ cup malt vinegar ¹⁄³ cup extra-virgin olive oil

STREUSEL

3 Tbsp. sambal oelek

¾ cup graham cracker crumbs

2 Tbsp. Asian fish sauce 3 garlic cloves

¾ cup all-purpose flour

4 lbs. flanken-style beef short ribs (sliced ¹⁄³ inch thick across the bones)

½ cup light brown sugar 1 stick unsalted butter, softened

1 stick unsalted butter, softened

½ tsp. kosher salt

4 ears of corn, shucked and cut crosswise into thirds

Peach-blueberry graham cake bakes on the grill in a cast-iron skillet.

Salt Charred Okra Relish (p. 112), for serving

page 90 Total 30 min; Serves 6

The dead-simple and super delicious shrimp-paste butter here was inspired by a dish Izard ate when she and Valentine honeymooned in Belize. 6 Tbsp. unsalted butter ½ cup finely chopped red onion 1½ tsp. crushed red pepper 1 tsp. Malaysian shrimp paste (belacan) 1½ tsp. fresh lime juice Salt and black pepper 2 4 large shrimp, shelled and deveined

J U N E 2015

3 large peaches, each cut into 1-inch wedges ¾ cup blueberries ½ cup granulated sugar

1. In a food processor, puree the vinegar with the olive oil, sambal, fish sauce and garlic. Transfer ½ cup of the kalbi marinade to a bowl. On a large baking sheet, brush the ribs with the remaining marinade and let stand for 30 minutes to 1 hour.

A zippy mix of olive oil, vinegar, fish sauce and chile paste transforms short ribs and grilled corn.

Grilled Shrimp with Shrimp Butter

FRUIT

6 large wooden skewers, soaked in water for 30 minutes

over high heat, turning once, until lightly charred and just cooked through, about 4 minutes total. Transfer to a platter and spoon the shrimp butter on top. Garnish with mint leaves and sprouts and serve.

Torn mint leaves and assorted sprouts, for garnish

1. In a small skillet, melt 3 tablespoons of the butter. Add the onion and cook over moderate heat until softened, 3 minutes. Whisk in the crushed red pepper and shrimp paste and cook, stirring, until fragrant, 2 minutes. Whisk in the lime juice and the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter and season with salt. Keep the shrimp butter warm.

MAKE AHEAD The shrimp but-

ter can be refrigerated overnight. Warm gently over low heat before serving. BEER With these grilled shrimp,

Izard drinks cans of the tangy, fruity, hibiscus-infused Rosa from Chicago’s Revolution Brewing. A citrusy farmhouse ale, like Prairie Artisan Ales’ Birra from Oklahoma, would also work.

2. Light a grill or preheat a grill pan. Season the shrimp with salt and black pepper and thread onto the skewers (don’t pack them on too tightly). Grill

3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 1 Tbsp. cornstarch 1 Tbsp. unsalted butter CAKE

1½ cups all-purpose flour ½ cup whole-wheat flour ½ cup fine graham cracker crumbs

2. Meanwhile, in the processor, pulse the butter until smooth. With the machine on, gradually add the reserved ½ cup of kalbi marinade. Scrape the kalbi butter into the bowl.

2 tsp. baking powder 1½ tsp. kosher salt 1 stick plus 3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, softened

3. Light a grill. Brush the corn with kalbi butter and grill over moderately high heat, turning and brushing with more butter, until lightly charred, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer to a large platter.

1¼ cups light brown sugar ¼ cup granulated sugar 3 Tbsp. honey 4 large eggs 1¼ cups buttermilk

4. Season the ribs lightly with salt and grill over high heat, turning once, until nearly cooked through and lightly charred, 4 to 6 minutes. Transfer to the platter and serve with the okra relish.

¹⁄³ cup canola oil 1 Tbsp. pure vanilla extract Vanilla ice cream, for serving

BEER These charred ribs are best with a dark, malty brown ale. Izard loves the Boffo Brown from Dark Horse in Michigan.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

1. Make the streusel In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle, beat all of the ingredients together at medium speed until crumbs form. Transfer the crumbs to a bowl and press into clumps. Refrigerate until chilled, about 15 minutes. 2. Meanwhile, prepare the fruit Set up a gas grill for indirect grilling, then heat to 300°. In a medium bowl, toss the peaches with the blueberries, sugar, lemon juice and cornstarch. In a 12-inch castiron skillet, melt the butter over low heat. Remove from the heat. Scrape the fruit and any juices into the skillet. 3. Make the cake In a medium bowl, whisk both flours with the graham cracker crumbs, baking powder and salt. In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle, beat the butter with both sugars and the honey at medium speed until fluffy. Beat in the eggs one at a time, then beat in the buttermilk, oil and vanilla. Scrape down the side of the bowl and beat in the dry ingredients until just smooth. Spread the batter in the skillet in an even layer. Scatter the streusel evenly on top. 4. Set the skillet on the grill over indirect heat. Close the grill and bake for about 1 hour and 30 minutes, rotating the skillet every 20 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the cake comes out clean; keep an eye on the heat to maintain the grill temperature. Let the cake cool for 1 hour. Cut into wedges and serve with vanilla ice cream. BEER Fruit desserts pair best with fruity sour beers. Izard loves this cake with St. Louis brewery Side Project’s Fuzzy, a peach-scented sour beer aged in Chardonnay barrels. continued on p. 112

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from p. 93

J U N E 2015

food and prop stylist: susie theodorou

GRILL

Charred Okra Relish

page 89

“Our dog, Burt, is our number one taste tester,” says Izard, here with her husband, Gary Valentine.

Salt and pepper

1 lb. okra

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter

Canola oil, for brushing

1 cup crisped rice cereal, such as Rice Krispies

1½ Tbsp. Asian fish sauce 4/1/15 1:46 PM

Grilled Potato Salad with Mustard Seeds page 90 Total 50 min; Serves 6

Grilling sliced potatoes in butter gives them an amazing crust; tossing them in a tangy mustard seed vinaigrette infuses them with fantastic flavor. 4 large Kennebec or baking potatoes, cut into ½-inch-thick rounds Salt and pepper 1 stick unsalted butter 3 Tbsp. seasoned rice vinegar 2 Tbsp. mustard seeds  ¼ cup sherry vinegar 2 tsp. pure maple syrup

1 Tbsp. minced shallot ½ Tbsp. malt vinegar

1. Light a grill. Grill the poblano, turning, until charred all over. Transfer to a bowl, cover tightly with plastic wrap and let cool. Peel, stem and seed the poblano, then cut into ¼-inch dice. 2. Brush the okra with oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill over high heat, turning, until lightly charred all over, 3 to 5 minutes. Let cool, then cut off the stems and slice the okra crosswise into ¼-inch rounds. 3. In a medium bowl, toss the okra with the poblano, fish sauce, shallot and vinegar. Season with salt and pepper and serve.

2 tsp. fresh lemon juice

Charred Broccoli with Blue Cheese Dressing and Spiced Crispies

¼ cup rice bran or canola oil

Total 50 min; Serves 6

2 celery ribs, thinly sliced

DRESSING

4 scallions, thinly sliced

¹⁄³ cup heavy cream

1. In a large saucepan, cover the potato rounds with water and bring to a boil. Add a generous pinch of salt and simmer over moderate heat until the potatoes are tender but not falling apart, about 12 minutes. Drain and transfer to a baking sheet to cool.

Pinch of crushed red pepper

2. Light a grill or preheat a grill pan. Lay 2 large sheets of heavy-duty foil on a work surface. Fold up the edges to form a ½-inch rim and pinch the corners together to seal. Transfer the foil to the grill and melt the butter on it. Add the potatoes in a single layer and grill over moderate heat until browned on the bottom, 12 to 15 minutes. 3. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, bring the rice vinegar just to a boil. Add the mustard seeds and let cool completely. Whisk in the sherry vinegar, maple syrup, lemon juice and rice bran oil. Season the dressing with salt and pepper.

Pinch of dark brown sugar 3 oz. smoked or Maytag blue cheese, crumbled (see Note) ¹⁄³ cup sour cream Salt BROCCOLI

2 lbs. broccoli, cut into 1½-inch florets with stems ¼ cup unseasoned rice vinegar 1½ Tbsp. harissa ½ tsp. finely grated lemon zest plus 1½ Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 1½ Tbsp. soy sauce 1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard

4. Transfer the potatoes to a large bowl. Add the celery, scallions and dressing and gently toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper and toss again. Serve right away.

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¹⁄³ cup minced shallots

1 poblano chile

Salt and pepper

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

0615_IZARD_lo_mp1.indd 86-87

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Total 20 min; Serves 6

—M. ELIZABETH SHELDON

1½ tsp. Sriracha

112

1. Make the dressing In a small saucepan, warm the heavy cream until hot. Whisk in the crushed red pepper, sugar and onethird of the blue cheese until melted. Let cool completely, then whisk in the sour cream and the remaining cheese. Season the dressing with salt. 2. Prepare the broccoli In a large saucepan of salted boiling water, blanch the broccoli until crisp-tender, about 2 minutes. Drain well and spread on a large baking sheet to cool. 3. In a blender, combine the vinegar, harissa, lemon zest and juice, soy sauce, mustard and Sriracha and puree. With the blender on, gradually add the olive oil until incorporated. Transfer the vinaigrette to a medium bowl and stir in the shallots. Season with salt and pepper. 4. In a medium skillet, melt the butter. Add the cereal and 1½ teaspoons of the harissa vinaigrette and cook over moderately high heat, stirring, until lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Season with salt and transfer to a paper towel–lined plate to drain. 5. Light a grill or preheat a grill pan. In a large bowl, toss the broccoli with half of the remaining vinaigrette and season with salt. Grill the broccoli over moderately high heat, turning occasionally, until lightly charred all over, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate. 6. Spread the blue cheese dressing on a platter and scatter the broccoli on top. Garnish with the spiced crispies and serve, passing the remaining harissa vinaigrette at the table. NOTE Izard likes using Rogue Creamery Smokey Blue Cheese (roguecreamery.com). MAKE AHEAD The blue cheese dressing can be refrigerated overnight. BEER To go with the funkiness of the blue cheese in this salad, Izard and Valentine pour Tank 7 Farmhouse Ale from Kansas City’s Boulevard Brewing. Also try Bam Bière from Michigan’s Jolly Pumpkin.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

charred broccoli with blue cheese dressing and spiced crispies

grilled shrimp with shrimp butter