Cushnie et Ochs Sourcing Strategy by Mi'Kiera Graham-Young

Cushnie et Ochs

SOURCING STRATEGY

Company Description

Mission Statement The Cushnie et Ochs mission is to create a market for the sophisticated woman who wants to be sexy without being vulgar, using an aesthetic that is very sexy, but strong with a minimal edge.

Vision The brand embodies a unique sensibility. The apparel combines a bold sensuality with a raw feminine attitude. The aesthetic is confidently understated and luxuriously modern. There are body-contouring silhouettes that celebrate the women who wear them. The apparel embodies an alluring sense of energy through the use of color and bold lines. Cushnie et Ochs is creating apparel for a new modern woman who owns her own individuality.

The Cushnie et Ochs target market is woman between the ages of 25 to 45 years old. She lives in a major city or in a suburb outside of a city. Her income ranges from that of middle class to upper class. She is college educated with a Bachelorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s degree or higher. She values luxury products for their quality and durability. She exhibits strong brand loyalty.

Code of Conduct

The Cushnie Et Ochs Supplier Workplace Code of Conduct explains the standards for fair, safe and healthy working conditions and environmental responsibility throughout our supply chain. Every supplier is required to commit to following our Code of Conduct.

Child Labor

Cushnie Et Ochs suppliers must employ workers younger than 16 years of age. If the age for completing compulsory education or the minimum working age in the country of manufacturing is greater than 16, workers must be that age. Suppliers must comply with all other applicable child labor laws, and workers under the age of 18 shall not perform work that may jeopardize their health and safety.

Forced Labor

Cushnie Et Ochs suppliers must not use any form of forced, bonded, compulsory or prison labor. Suppliers shall ensure that all employment is voluntary and free from violence, threats, financial penalties or coercion. There shall be no restrictions on movement or withholding of personal documents or deposits. Suppliers shall take adequate steps to ensure that workers are not trafficked or otherwise exploited.

Discrimination

Cushnie Et Ochs suppliers must not discriminate in employment practices, including recruitment, hiring, compensation, training, benefits, advancement, termination or retirement on the basis of race, color, ancestry, national or social origin, religion, gender, marital status, age, sexual orientation, gender identity or expression, disability, political opinion, or any other personal characteristics or beliefs.

Harassment and Abuse

Wages and Benefits

Cushnie Et Ochs suppliers must comply with all applicable laws and regulations relating to wages and benefits. Workers shall be paid at least the minimum wage or a wage that is consistent with prevailing local industry standards. Whichever is higher shall be the rate applied. Overtime work must be compensated at the premium rate as is legally required. Compensation must be provided at least monthly and should be provided without illegal or inappropriate deductions or penalties.

Laws and Regulations

Cushnie Et Ochs suppliers must operate in full compliance with all applicable local, national and international laws, standards and regulations relevant to the conduct of their business.

Hours of Work

Cushnie Et Ochs suppliers must comply with all applicable laws and regulations relating to hours of work. Except in extraordinary business circumstances, workers shall not be required to work more than 60 hours per week (including overtime). Suppliers shall provide workers with at least one day off for every seven-day period.

Freedom of Association

Cushnie Et Ochs suppliers must recognize and respect the rights of workers to freedom of association and collective bargaining. Where law does not provide such rights, suppliers should take steps to provide an open means of communication with workers.

Health and Safety

Cushnie Et Ochs suppliers must comply with all applicable laws and regulations governing workplace health and safety. Suppliers shall provide their workers with a clean, safe, and healthy work environment. The same applies for dormitory facilities, where provided.

Customs And Security

Cushnie Et Ochs suppliers must comply with all applicable local, national, and international customs laws, including those prohibiting transshipment. Suppliers shall implement security measures consistent with the recommendations set forth by the Customs-Trade Partnership Against Terrorism (C-TPAT).

Environmental safety

Subcontract

Cushnie Et Ochs suppliers must not subcontract any portion of the manufacturing process without prior written approval from Cushnie Et Ochs. As a condition of approval, subcontractors shall agree to comply with the Cushnie Et Ochs Supplier Workplace Code of Conduct.

Transparency

Cushnie Et Ochs is committed to working with suppliers who are open and honest with us. Cushnie Et Ochs suppliers shall maintain complete and accurate records and information so that compliance can be effectively assessed. Suppliers must not falsify or understate any aspects of their operations to Cushnie Et Ochs or our representatives. Suppliers must not coach employees on how to answer questions or respond to inquiries by Cushnie Et Ochs or our representatives.

Monitoring and Compliance

Cushnie Et Ochs reserves the right to conduct announced and unannounced inspections of all manufacturing facilities. Supplies should ensure that the requirements in this Code are understood and implemented at every level and must maintain all documentation necessary to demonstrate compliance with the Cushnie Et Ochs Supplier Workplace Code of Conduct. Suppliers must allow representatives of Cushnie Et Ochs full access to facilities, documents and workers. Suppliers shall submit an improvement plan to address any issues of noncompliance that may be found during the course of compliance inspections. Cushnie Et Ochs reserves the right to terminate its business relationship with any supplier who is unwilling or unable to comply with the provisions set forth herein.

Company

Cushnie et Ochs does not have their own brick-and-mortar store locations. The apparel is sold in department stores such as,

Products Pricing

Bras: $100-$500 Panties: $50-$350 Bustier/Corsets: $250-$2000 Bodysuits/Teddies: $200-$2000

Sizing

Bras 32B 32C 32D 32DD 34B 34C 34D 34DD 36B 36C 36D 36DD

Panties XS S M L Corset/Bustier XS S M L Bodysuits/Teddies XS S M L

BRAS PANTIES

BODY SUIT CORSET

Country Criteria

Location Lead-time to NYC Sustainability Responsible factory procedures Fair labor laws Fair employment, regulations in place Technology Ability to manufacture the lingerie, correct machinery Cost On budget after final landing cost

Country Selection

China China was the largest recipient of foreign direct investment (FDI) in 2014.

Location

Yantian, China to NYC - 32 days and 23 hours Shipping Rate: $3,473.95 - $3,839.63

Trade

China is a member of the WTO. China exhibits friendly trade relations with the United States. The country has no trade agreement with the U.S., but is a top exporter and dominates the export market to the U.S. China does have 14 FTAs signed and implemented with other countries, as well as 19 FTAs under construction.

technology

China has a large number of R&D institutions. China is well equipped for advanced research, with increased international influence in the field of science and technology. China has an increasing number of patents. There is strong growth in innovation. China had the highest patent count in 2014 among the BRICS nations. China has embarked on a quest to become one of most innovative countries in the world under the 12th five-year plan (2011-2015).

Environment

China is the world’s largest manufacturer of wind turbines and solar modules and has overtaken the U.S. in terms of the installed renewable energy capacity. The Chinese administration has prioritized improvement in technology related to energy efficiency and clean energy. In order to balance the stress on natural resources caused by rapid growth, development, and urbanization, the state has implemented a “green strategy.” China is tackling climate change and energy issues through the State Environmental Protection Administration, established in 1998. The government ratified the UN Kyoto Protocol for the second time in Durban in 2011, in an attempt to demonstrate its positive stance towards international environmental co-operation and sustainable development. Under 12th national plan, environmental protection became part of the national economic strategy. Supervision and inspection of industrial enterprises is to be carried out on a regular basis. Reduction of pollution and protection of the environment are also criteria for gauging an enterprise’s performance in fulfilling its production obligations. Environmental protection laws are slowly becoming more stringent in China. There has been a major thrust on development of renewable energy. By 2015, wind and solar power generation is poised to reach 100 million kilowatts, while nuclear energy is expected to increase its share to 8% of China’s total power capacity by 2020, up from 1% in 2010. These measures are likely to have a positive impact on the country’s greenhouse gas emissions.

Cost

It is the end of cheap labor in China as wages are rising compared to other Asian manufacturers. Though, the wage is still not a living wage. Many manufacturing employers pay their employees just above minimum wage, $270 a month. The average factory worker in China earns $27.50 per day. The average wage reached 56,339 yuan in 2014 (around 9000 USD).

Labor Laws

There are labor laws that disallow independent trade unions and limit the right to strike. Strikes have been successful in many cases, bringing workers to the bargaining table. Industrial workers are fashioning their own system of industrial relations, largely without the assistance of existing law and labor relations institutions. Workers cannot freely choose their collective bargaining representatives and lack laws requiring employers to collectively bargain with employees. Despite inadequacies of Chinese law, the government sometimes now allows strikes and plant-level collective bargaining. There have been improvements in workersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; rights in past few years. The 2008 Employee Contract Law was established. It created policy favoring widespread â&#x20AC;&#x153;collective consultationâ&#x20AC;? over wages and working conditions. As a result, industrial wages are rising.

Italy Location

Livorno, Italy to NYC - 12 days and 3 hours Shipping Rate: $3,271.04 - $3,615.36

Trade

Italy is a member of the World Trade Organization. Trade is of high importance to Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s market. There is no current trade agreement between the US and Italy, but the US is in negotiations with the European Union about the Transatlantic Trade and Investment Partnership (T-TIP). The US enjoys warm and friendly relations with Italy too as the countries are NATO allies and UN members. The European Economic Area (EEA) extends EU commercial law to the European Free-Trade Association (EFTA) member states, thereby providing for the free circulation of goods, services, capital and labor.

Technology

Italy is not as technologically advanced as its European counterparts. Spending on R&D as a portion of GDP remains well below the EU average. There are a low number of patents received in Italy. The Italian government is committed to the nation's technological advancement, with policies such as the "Industria 2015" program intended to provide impetus to R&D in the country. Research workers are being encouraged to move to Italy through tax incentives. A merit fund to promote quality learning in schools and universities was created and tax credits are offered to businesses that fund university or public research projects.

Environment

The cause of Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s environmental problems is due to industrial and agricultural activities, much like other countries. Air pollution and water pollution are predominant problems. There are major NGOs, Friends of the Earth, Center for a Sustainable Future, and European Federation against Hunting , fighting for environmental changes. As a member of the UN, Italy has enacted the Kyoto Protocol. Through its taxing policy, the government has been able to reduce the worsening concessions that come with use of fossil fuels. Taxes are effectively discouraging overconsumption of conventional fuels.

Cost

Italy has no universal minimum wage. Wages are set by sectoral collective bargaining. An average monthly income for a garment cutter is $1,115 after working 40 hours a week.

Labor Laws

Italy has labor rights written into their Constitution. The Constitution addresses the right to work for every citizen, fair pay, maximum working hours, the weekly and annual paid vacation, the protection of women and of minors on the job, social insurance for old age, illness, invalidity, industrial diseases and accidents, Freedom of Association, and the right to strike. There is also a contract of employment and entitlement to severance payment. Italian employees should not have a work day that exceeds 8 hours or 40 hours a week, applicable for effective working time. Any work over 40 hours a week is overtime. Collective agreements can come into play here to determine different overtime limits. All workers have the right to rest one day a week, typically on Sunday. Workers are entitled to compensatory rest and have the right to annual paid leave. There are maternity leave and maternity protection laws as well. Other types of paid leave include sick leave and educational leave. In Italy, a person may be employed at the end of compulsory schooling, however not less than 15 years of age.

Hong Kong Location

Hong Kong to NYC - 32 days 23 hours Shipping Rate: $3,430.68 - $3,791.80

Trade

Hong Kong has the freest economy out of 178 countries according to the 2015 Index of Economic Freedom published by the Heritage Foundation. The country is 3rd out of 189 countries in the 2015 World Bank Doing Business Report. Hong Kong offers one of the most hospitable climates for investment in Asia. It pursues a free market philosophy with limited government intervention. Hong Kong takes part in WTO negotiations independently and acts as a separate customs territory. It is a duty free port, except for a small number of tariffs on select products.

Technology

Hong Kong is one of the most advanced nations in the Asia Pacific region in terms of IT usage. ITC was set up with the mission of driving HK to become a knowledge based economy. Strategic partners of ITC are Hong Kong Applied Science and Technology, the Research Institute Company, Science and Technology Parks Corporation, the Hong Kong Productivity Council, and Cyber Port.

Environment

Hong Kong’s air is polluted by emissions from transport, power generation, and the construction sector. One key way Hong Kong could reduce its footprint is by boosting the market for sustainable goods. Hong Kong’s environmental policies are aimed at protecting public health and preserving the county’s ecosystem. There are seven regulations on pollution control: The Waste Disposal Ordinance; the Water Pollution Control Ordinance; the Air Pollution Control Ordinance, the Noise Control Ordinance; the Ozone Layer Protection Ordinance; the Dumping at Sea Ordinance; and the Environmental Impact Assessment Ordinance. Hong Kong’s government has achieved only limited success in tackling air and water pollution and water management issues. Increasing pollution continues to be a major concern for both residents and businesses in the country. Hong Kong ranked 40 out of 129 countries in the World Energy Council’s Energy Sustainability Index.

Cost

The average wage in Hong Kong is around HKD 9,313. The legal minimum wage is HKD 3,580 per month for a full time employee. These wages are extremely high when compared to mainland China's wages. This is due to the capitalistic nature of Hong Kong. A factory in Hong Kong will be more expensive than mainland China due to its limited land, high wages, and high utility costs.

Labor Laws

The Employment Ordinance governs the conditions of employment in the country since 1968. Although workers are free to join trade unions or other associations, it is not mandatory for employees to decide terms of employment through such bargaining. Employers are obligated to keep records of wages paid and the attendance of employees, and face a fine of up to 10,000 if they fail to do so. Paid sick leave is guaranteed under the Hong Kong labor law. Employees get sick leave at a rate of two days for every month of employment for the first 12 months, and then the rate increases to four days for each month.

Supplier Analysis China Supplier Bogart Lingerie Ltd. Guangzhou, China Italian Supplier Valcuvia Lingerie Livorno, Italy Hong Kong Supplier Confiance Apparel Enterprise Co., Ltd. Hong Kong, Hong Kong

Our suppliers are best suited for our company because they are already manufacturing lingerie for other companies in their factories. Therefore, these companies have the technology, machinery, knowledge, and skill area to produce our product. The supplier from Hong Kong produces lingerie for one of our competitors in the lingerie luxury sector. The other suppliers do not have buyers in the same price range or target market, but the quality and silhouettes produced for those customers speak for the supplierâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ability to manufacture our lingerie line.

Country Ranking On a scale of 1-10 Country

China

Business Climate

9.5

Costs

Government

8 6 6

Location Risks

Social Stability

Sourcing Guidelines Textile Industry Trade Agreements

8 9.5 10 8.5

Trained Work Force

Socio-eco-political

7.5

Total Points Average Points

92 8.36

Explanation China is very experienced in the manufacturing and export business as a WTO member. The country is a top exporter to the United States. China was the largest recipient of foreign direct investment in 2014. There are some differences in business procedures due to culture that will need to be known and adjusted to accordingly. The wages in China are rising, but are still fairly low. The manufacturing sector is helping bring the Chinese out of extreme poverty. We are a luxury player, so extreme low costs are not a necessity. The government is stable. Some concerns with the high government debt. The location is not ideal, as lead times will be fairly long. The level of transparency in the country is low. The people are also not â&#x20AC;&#x153;freeâ&#x20AC;? in terms of civil liberties and political rights, so that can cause unrest. There is risk of damage to the cargo and delay during the long journey to the NYC port. China has put forth plans for reform to help the impoverished regions. Inequality is still relevant, but has declined since 2008 due to faster wage growth. There is a risk with the aging population in the long term. Chinese factories have WRAP certifications. There are companies with ISO 9000/14000 certification as well. China is a huge player in the textile industry through their input with manufacturing. The US does not have a FTA with China, but China is a top exporter and dominates the market. China also has 14 FTAs signed and implemented with 19 FTAs under construction with other countries. China has a vast population with millions working in the manufacturing industry. There are already lingerie manufacturers in the country. Largest FDI recipient. China has plans put forth to improve the environmental conditions, but it is highly polluted and contaminated due to manufacturing and agricultural activities. The social conditions too are under reform. The CPC is able to enact policy unhindered and China has a strong geopolitical influence. There are risks of human rights abuses and media censorship occurs.

Italy

9.5 9 9 8 6 8.5 8.5 9.5 9.5 8 8

93.5 8.5

Explanation The economy is industrial based. Italy has a main strength in manufacturing, especially with firms that specialize in products that require high-quality design and engineering. Italy has a high attractiveness for foreign investment. Italy is one of the largest economies. The country is the 4th largest in Europe. Italian manufacturing wages are than the Asian developing countries. Our customer is willing to pay the luxury, highly marked up price points. The political risk with Italy is fairly low. The government is a stable republic. The lead-time to NYC from the Italian port is 12 days. Much quicker than from Asia. Italy has a few risks. There is a risk of child labor, abuse, and discrimination against ethnic minorities that go against our company values. There is also risk of corruption due to the presence of the mafia. There is a generally good human rights record. There are still some risks and areas of concern.

No WRAP certified facilities. There are ISO certifications. Italy is a fashion/textile capital of the world. There is a trade agreement in the works with the European Union and the US, T-TIP. The US enjoys warm and friendly relations with Italy, as the countries are NATO allies. Italy also has trade agreements with other countries, including its fellow EU member states. Italy switched from agricultural to industrial based after WWII. The skilled work force is in place. It is not as vast of a work force, in the millions compared to China. The Italian people have political rights and civil liberties. There are some social problems, but overall the people are free. The political system is stable with a large economy, though the southern agricultural based region of the country has not done as well since the switch to a more industrialized economy. Italy too has been polluted due to industrial and agricultural activities, but protocols are in place to reduce the footprint.

Hong Kong Explanation

9.5 9 8.5 6 7.5 8.5 9 9 9 8 8.5

92.5 8.41

Friendly relations with the US. Less land than mainland China to manufacture. High foreign investment rank. The economy is aided by a sustainable fiscal approach, but external trade is a dependence which causes concern.

Once again, the labor cost is higher in comparison to other Asian countries, but we are willing to pay more for a higher guarantee of quality. Low political risk. Very transparent government with a low perception of corruption. Lead-time is very long. Hong Kong too has an aging population that poses a long term risk on straining public finances. There is an exchange rate dilemma that poses future risks. HK is also dependent on external trade. Lead-time is a risk. There is low innovation, but support towards R&D. The Life Satisfaction Index ranks HK 63 of 178 compared to China’s rank of 82 and Italy’s rank of 50. Human Development is ranked 21 of 169 countries compared to China’s rank of 89 and Italy’s rank of 23. Human development performance is impressive. Aging population poses long term risk. WRAP certified facilities. Textile/apparel manufacturing industry present. Key apparel exporter. WTO member. Friendly relations with the US. Hong Kong has the freest economy out of 178 countries according to the 2015 Index of Economic Freedom published by the Heritage Foundation. The country is 3rd out of 189 countries in the 2015 World Bank Doing Business Report. FTAs with EU member states, China, Chile, etc. The work force is available, but less compared to mainland China. Hong Kong has impressive rankings in governance indicators, but the media censorship remains a challenge. There is progress in energy sustainability, but the high ecological footprint is a concern. Hong Kong is a limited democracy, but the office of the chief executive continues to depend on China’s support. HK has a strong tourism sector and a robust banking sector. HK is maintaining its fiscal sustainability. HK too has some human rights issues.

Supplier Ranking On a scale of 1-10

Suppliers

Bogart Lingerie Ltd. (China)

Valcuvia Lingerie (Italy)

Abilities

Capacity

Lead-Time

Quality

9.5

Customers

Services Offered

Strategic Outlook

68.5

67.5

8.63

8.56

8.44

Sourcing Guideline

Total Points Average Points

Confiance Apparel Enterprise Co., Ltd. (Hong Kong)

Strategy Publication

China, Italy, and Hong Kong were selected because these countries already have manufacturers skilled and trained in lingerie production. Italy is known for its luxury product and our company offers high fashion, luxury apparel. Another luxury player in the lingerie market manufactures in the Italian and Hong Kong factories, so that too is more of a guarantee that the manufacturers will suit our product. China has the vast population to provide the work force required to produce our lingerie assortment. The Chinese factory, Bogart Lingerie, is WRAP certified, so that ensures that sourcing guidelines and proper conditions will be followed in regards to worker safety. The labor wage is rising in China and higher in Italy and Hong Kong, but we are confident that the skilled workforce is worth the extra cost. Our target customer is willing to pay higher markups as well for our luxury product, so the cheapest labor is not a vital requirement. Italy will be a quicker lead-time to New York City than Hong Kong or China. Overall, these countries have friendly relations and trade with the United States. Italy and the European Union have a trade agreement under way with the United States, so that will be a future prospect.

Strategy Conclusion

Our company is in the luxury market, so we are looking for high quality suppliers. Our customers expect a certain level of quality and durability that we must deliver. We are trusting these factories to produce our delicate lingerie with skill. A lot of our lingerie will be silk lace, so manufacturing in China and Hong Kong where there is access to silk worms and silk production will provide an ease to manufacturing. Italy is the home country of many luxury fashion players, so quality should not be hard to attain. Altogether these countries have been manufacturing for decades with stable infrastructure.

Line Plan Style #

Name

JAN

FEB

MAR

APR

MAY

QUANTITIES

Bras

1000

2500

3500

Panties

1500

3000

4000

Corsets/Bustiers

500

1250

1750

Bodysuits/Teddies

300

1050

1550

3300

7800

10800

Total

Unit Breakdown 125600

Retail

Cost

Margin

Per Unit

Total

Per Unit

Total

$37,884,100

95%

Bras

30%

37680

$350

$13,188,000

$17.50

$659,400

Panties

35%

43960

$150

$6,594,000

$7.50

$329,700

Corsets/Bustiers

20%

25120

$500

$12,560,000

$25

$628,000

Bodysuits/Teddies

15%

18840

$400

$7,536,000

$20

$376,800

125600

$39,878,000

$1,993,900

JUN

JUL

AUG

SEPT

OCT

NOV

DEC

TOTAL

QUANTITIES

5000

4000

3000

4500

5000

4500

39500

5500

4500

3500

5000

5500

5000

45500

3500

2000

1500

2250

3000

2250

21250

3300

1800

1300

2050

3300

2050

19350

17300

12300

9300

13800

16800

13800

125600

Sourcing Guidelines We are committed to excellence in every aspect of our business, including legal, ethical and responsible conduct in all our operations. We expect these same commitments to be shared by our suppliers. In addition, suppliers are also expected to share our commitment to quality and to maintaining the practices necessary to meet our quality standards. We are dedicated to sourcing responsibly. We will be closely monitoring the practices of our suppliers in this first year of business together. We will be making note of what works and what does not to evaluate if we will be continuing the business partnership after the first year. There will be scheduled and unscheduled factory checks. It will be mandatory for our suppliers to follow our strict, responsible Code of Conduct. The Chinese factory already follows the WRAP procedures, as the facility is gold certified. Italy has no facilities WRAP certified, so that is something that could be worked towards and implemented in the future. We will be watching for the employee treatment, facility conditions, and the quality produced. If the employees are not treated fairly or the infrastructure is not sufficient or safe, we will give the supplier a warning and chance to rectify the problem area(s). Another check will occur to make sure the problem is solved. If it is not solved, that will result in termination of the business relationship. We will include quality checks in these factory checks, as our customer is expecting top of the line products. If the supplier fails to meet our quality expectations, we will have to terminate the business relationship. We are working with developed nations that have been manufacturing and trading for long periods of time. These countries also have long existing relationships with American business. We will not be tolerating any noncompliance that can damage our brand image. This will truly be a partnership to ensure smooth business procedures.

Conclusion

We are moving into a new market with this lingerie brand extension. It is an extension that we feel our customers will appreciate and want to acquire. Lingerie makes sense for our brand, as we aim to embody sensuality and sex appeal in our Ready-to-Wear apparel already. That is the essence of lingerie, so this will be a product that our consumers will buy into. We will be testing the market out in small amounts for the first year. We currently do not have our own brick-and-mortar locations, so we will be setting up a fashion show to premiere the new lingerie assortment. At the fashion show, there will be a pop up shop where the exclusive attendees can purchase the lingerie. From there, we will sell the lingerie in our own online shop in the US only. If successful, we will increase our line plan amounts and hopefully still be conducting business with these three great lingerie suppliers.

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Miâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Kiera Graham-Young Dominique Holcomb Professor levy fasm 420 Global Sourcing & Import Buying Fall 2015