CoolTravel book

Foreword

CoolTravel™ A worldwide platform for countries, cities, companies from the travel

The best place to find inspiration….

CoolTravel, the most exceptional travel spots…

industry and cool travellers. It all starts with an online survey of the most exceptional travel spots. The travel destinations are described and photographed with their main brand values. A selection of the stories is

When we started working on this second edition of the book, we had of

included in the CoolTravel book, which is distributed in France, Germany,

course hoped – though we could never have known – that it would be as

the UK, the Benelux, Scandinavia, Russia, Dubai and India. Five-star hotels

beautiful as it has now become. We have chosen for a different look: some

also use the book for their guests, airlines use it for their frequent flyers and

new features, while other aspects included in the first edition have been left

holiday fairs distribute it among their visitors.

out, all in a bid to improve the final result.

In 2010, CoolTravel will be used by all the major players in the travel industry The book’s philosophy is to offer destinations, countries and travel-related

and will be distributed in Europe, Asia and North America. CoolTravel will

companies an alternative platform to present and brand themselves.

launch the virtual World Expo in Shanghai.

The destinations have been picked by CoolScene travellers and travel professionals.

CoolScene™

Foreword

Over 100,000 consumers in 14 countries participated in the CoolBrands The stories that you are about to read have been written by CoolTravel,

and CoolTravel elections. Innovators and early adopters were invited to

travel journalists and specialised travel guides. The goal has been to look for

participate in CoolScene™, a worldwide platform of people who share views

authenticity in all places and write an inspirational story that offers a glimpse

on cool subjects such as brands, travel and lifestyle. By 2010, the scene will

of the destination.

consist of cool students and cool travellers from all over the world.

Beside the destinations, some countries are featured with facts, figures and

CoolTravel enables us to see very special parts of the world, places where we

some of the native brands that form part of the country’s identity.

would otherwise not come and people we would otherwise not meet.

CoolTravel is a source of inspiration for all those who love travel and are

During our search for cool, we noticed that the coolest people are those who

ready to discover something else: off the beaten track, out of the ordinary

trust their intuition and have a bird’s-eye view. We have translated that into

destinations and experiences.

love and vision, which is reflected in the heart and eye in our logo.

5

Love and Vision, Maarten and Anouk

Buenos Aires No time for sleep

Like the steamy throb of the tango, Buenos Aires is a city of passion and excess. In all the important areas of life - food, art, music, love, politics – the local residents known as porteños never hold back. Despite some bad luck in the last couple of years, the residents of Argentina’s capital haven’t let it stop them from enjoying all the good things in life.

We start our day in Plaza de Mayo, the city’s main square which is always hosting some sort of protest (the country’s second national sport). We soak up the splendour of the Presidential Palace, Catedral Metropolitana and Casa Rosada before grabbing a table at the landmark Café Tortoni – a 149-year-old institution which provides a glimpse back into the splendour of the country’s aristocratic past. Sipping on a café cortado – an espresso with just a drop of milk – we watch the city go past in true belle époque style.

The upmarket Recoleta district - full of French inspired architecture, tree-lined boulevards and fashionable shops – is next. The district also houses the city’s famous Cemeterio de la Recoleta; a maze of huge marble tombs overflowing with angels, cherubs and gargoyles and where the country’s most famous First Lady, Eva Peron, is buried.

It’s the weekend, so we jump on the underground and head for the oldest district in town – San Telmo. It’s a jumble of cobblestone streets, crumbling mansions, colourful cafés, tasty (as always) restaurants, hidden tango parlours and wonderful art galleries and bookshops. We stroll through Plaza Dorrego, which hosts a weekend antiques market… if only our suitcases were bigger. The plaza is also filled with young Argentineans who have brought their portable stereos and are practicing the country’s national dance – the tango.

We look on enviously as young couples lock arms, legs and bodies in this most passionate of dances.

For dinner we head over to Palermo, the city’s hippest neighbourhood. Only the tourists eat early in Buenos Aires. At 11pm, we find space in a packed restaurant and are brought a steak as big as the table and bottle of local red wine. After eating a whole lot of cow, we walk through the main plaza, filled with buskers and young couples in love. Romance is always in the air – and on show – in this city.

It’s just past 1am – time to hit the clubs. No self-respecting porteño would dream of turning up to a club before now. The night is just getting started

Photography - Sapa Pana Travel

Argentina

and in this city there is no shortage of options.

You can book a trip to Argentina through Sapa Pana Travel. For more information, go to www.sapapanatravel.nl Lufthansa is offering five non-stop flights per week from Frankfurt to Buenos Aires with perfect connections from Amsterdam. For more information and flight reservation visit www.lufthansa.com 11

Patagonia The icy ends of the earth

I’m standing in front of an unstoppable force of nature. A massive wall of blue and green ice slowly, inevitably, relentlessly making its way to the ocean. The Perito Moreno Glacier is a true natural marvel. Measuring more than 4,500 metres in width and soaring 60 metres high, you could fit the entire city of Buenos Aires on this slow moving train of frozen water.

Standing on the wooden viewing platform opposite the glacier, it’s not the jagged white and blue spikes that draw your breath. Rather, it’s the noise. A constant percussion of sharp cracks – like gunshots – as pressure and time take their toll and another massive splinter tumbles majestically, seemingly in slow motion, into the slate-green water below.

To get a different view I take a boat ride out into the frosty channel. Chunks of ice hit the hull as our group makes its way around the wrinkled face of the glacier. Leaning over the side and dipping his hand into the freezing water, the captain grabs a chunk of glacier ice and heads below to the ship’s galley.

Minutes later he’s back - glasses of whisky for all. On the rocks with 1000-year old ice. To think it took 300 years to reach my glass. Cheers.

Next stop – the ends of the earth: well at least the world’s southernmost city, Ushuaia. The area was originally settled as a prison for the country’s worst criminals (the former prison now serves as a museum with plenty of horrifying accounts of solitary induced madness). The perpetually snowcapped Andes frame the city and it’s the best place to organise a visit into the Tierra del Fuego National Park.

To see the park I climb aboard a narrow gauge steam train formerly used to transport prisoners and enjoy the two-hour ride to the entrance. The park is famous for its series of lakes and it’s here that I really feel like I’ve arrived in Patagonia. A desolate, wind-swept alien expanse bordered by the Andes, beautiful in its harshness and eerie in its remoteness. The ends of the earth

Argentina

never looked so good.

Marianne van der Toorn You can book a trip to Argentina through NBBS Reizen. For more information, go to www.nbbs.nl

13

Aruba One Happy Island Situated in the heart of the southern Caribbean, Aruba is a sundrenched paradise that is known for its laidback atmosphere and friendly population. I had often heard about Aruba’s beautiful white beaches and the great food and so I was super-excited when I got off the plane.

From my hotel room at the “Holiday Inn” I had a stunning view of the beach and the turquoise sea beyond and it didn’t take me long to change into my beach wear and head out for my first refreshing dive in the ocean. The next few days I spent with my feet in the sand – lounging around, snorkelling, reading and sampling the delicious melon, papaya and mango fruit shakes.

The feeling of complete wellness climaxed with a visit to one of the many health spas Aruba offers.

On my third day, I decided to explore the island and headed to the capital Oranjestad, a small village with nice hotels nearby, like the friendly “Talk of the Town”. The capital is a bright, breezy and lively mix of tall pastel-coloured houses and typical Aruban homes with wooden doors, patios and slanted roofs. I spent an afternoon here, wandering through the streets of the old city, window-shopping, gazing at the luxury brands like Gucci, Louis Vuitton or Ralph Lauren and people-watching at one of the many shorefront cafés.

Aruba’s rich history is not only reflected in the local Papiamento language that mixes Portuguese, Spanish and Dutch, but also in the island’s quality cuisine that combines flavours from India, Latin America and Holland. I soon realised that Arubans love food and all that is involved in preparing it. Every day, local fishermen haul in a fresh catch and fish and seafood are extremely popular. One of the Aruban favourites is keri-keri; a spicy fish and vegetable curry that is served with rice.

The island’s cultural diversity is also clearly reflected in the various sight­ seeing attractions. From Fort Zoutman’s Museum and the William III Tower, to the ancient writings in the caves at Arikok National Park, I felt the different sights really showed the many layers of Aruban history.

In my last few days on Aruba, I decided to seek out the island’s famous golf courses Tierra del Sol and The Links at Divi. While I am by no means a pro, I knew I couldn’t forego a chance to play at Tierra del Sol, an 18-hole champion­ ship golf course that was recently designated as one of the most beautiful in the Caribbean. A completely other experience is The Links at Divi, where water and wind are ruling elements. Set in the middle of a bird sanctuary, the Tierra del Sol course is challenging, not in the least because of the stiff year-round breeze that demands keen insight from players. Playing on this course that lies between desert landscapes and deep blue ocean views really was an unforgettable experience, one of the many I brought back from my

Aruba

stay on Aruba.

Caresse Dabian You can book a trip to Aruba through Caribbean Travel. For more information, go to www.caribbeantravel.nl Special places to stay are the K.E.I.S. & Caribbean resorts on Aruba. For more information go to www.keis.nl For more information on Aruba tourism visit the website www.aruba.com 15

Australia A blaze of colour

In Australia you’ll find the most diverse aspects a country can offer.

This unique continent (yes, continent) houses an awesome range of environments, ranging from dense rainforests and deserted white sand beaches to ancient rock formations sprouting out of red deserts in the blistering outback. Modern living in the cities blends easily with ancient traditions of the world’s oldest living culture; that of the Aboriginal people who have lived here for 40,000 years.

The Australian cities of Sydney and Melbourne and the beaches of its east coast are internationally renowned and well travelled. But we wanted to get off the main tourist track. First stop, Tasmania. This island-state separated from the mainland by the treacherous Bass Strait is famous for its rugged landscapes and beautiful national parks. Touching down in the capital city of Hobart we found a cute little city nestled on a beautiful harbour boasting great cafes, restaurants and art galleries. But it was nature that we wanted so we spent two days in Cradle Mountain National Park. Thick forests dripping in green ferns and moss, deep blue lakes and pink granite mountains make this untouched wilderness a special place.

From the deep green of Tasmania we headed for the flaming red of the Northern Territory. In Kakadu National Park we saw huge crocodiles sunning themselves and learnt about Aboriginal culture and heard dreamtime stories about the ancestor spirits who created this land and everything in it.

It really gave us a new appreciation for the traditional owners of this amazing country.

While in the Northern Territory we also spent a day on a working cattle farm.

Riding around on horses was a great way to get a feel of just how tough this country is. That night we slept in the great outdoors; our guide was also a great ‘bush cook’ and eating thick beef stew with fresh bread around a campfire under a clear sky studded with stars was a real highlight.

Western Australia was our final destination. This huge state is filled with deserted stretches of white sand and beautiful beaches. Watching the sun melt into the horizon at the beachside town of Broome was incredible – the sky was filled with rich hues of red, orange, yellow, gold and purple.

At Monkey Mia we had the chance to swim with dolphins. These mammals were totally curious and interactive, coming up to us and checking us out. It

Susan ter Wisscha You can book a trip to Australia through TravelEssence. For more information, go to www.travelessence.nl

17

Photography - Tourism Australia

Australia

was an experience we will never forget.

Bhutan The last Buddhist Kingdom Nestled in the heart of the great Himalaya, Bhutan was for centuries isolated from the rest of the world. Today, as it gradually opens up, its mystical Buddhist temples, its colourful houses and the exceptionally friendly people give the impression of a forgotten Shangri-la.

the meeting point of the Mo Chhu and Pho Chhu, the Mother River and the Father River. We visited the site at the end of the afternoon, when the high white walls of the ancient monastery sparkled in the evening sun. On the veranda a small boy dressed in a red robe played a wooden flute, while other novices – some of them no more than five years old – chased each other around the courtyard. Inside the main temple, mighty bronze Buddha

We travelled to Bhutan from India and were immediately struck by how much

statues were surrounded by dozens of gifts of food, flowers and incense,

more traditional the architecture and local dress was. The capital Thimpu is

and small lanterns lit up the holy space – a truly spiritual experience.

Photography - M. Lekkerkerker-Boxman

nothing more than a modest collection of wooden buildings in a beautiful wooded valley – probably the only capital in the world without traffic lights!

Our journey ended in Paro, a small town in the west of the country where

After we settled into the luxurious Aman Resort Thimpu, we set out to visit

we not only admired the historical architecture, but also got a peek into

the city that is dominated by the impressive Dzong, the seat of government

the daily life of a Bhutanese family with whom we had lunch and spent the

and the country’s main Buddhist temple where the highest religious

afternoon.

authorities reside in summertime. Our next stop was Trongsa where we visited the monastery. The magnificent fort, which is the former seat of the royal family, is a masterpiece of Bhutanese architecture with an intricate network of passageways, courtyards, temples and prayer halls.

The next day we took a hike through the nearby Bumthang Valley, the most sacred place in Bhutan, where Buddhism first developed. One of the most impressive temples here was the “Castle of the White Bird” which features a 150-metre tower.

Astrid van Dijk We soon realised how important religion is in Bhutan and to what extent You can book a trip to Bhutan through Renaissance Reizen. For more

of the country lies in Punakha, the site of a fortified monastery that lies on

information, go to www.renaissancereizen.nl

Bhutan

everyday life is dominated by Buddhism and its rituals. The spiritual heart

Botswana The Sounds of Africa

It was at Moremi Game Reserve in Botswana that we experienced our first evening of real camping and real Africa.

The camp site is quite basic and we can pitch our tent wherever we want. As long as it is light, the bush is relatively quiet – a couple of monkeys swinging through the trees and wandering through the camp in search of food. We quickly get used to them. Pitching the tent is an easy job and we set out a table and chairs beside the ‘skottel’ – a kind of casserole dish on a stick – that we have brought with us in our four-wheel-drive. Before it gets dark we have to make sure that we have gathered wood to make a fire, because as soon as it’s dark here in Africa, it’s really dark!

Besides the lamps we have brought along, there is no light at all at the camp site. We start preparing dinner as the sounds from the bush grow ever-louder – you have the feeling that a lion is going to pop out from behind a shrub at any minute. And we imagine that the delicious meat that is gently roasting over the ‘skottelbraai’ doesn’t help. Our neighbours further up are more experienced: they are walking in and out of the bushes and seem perfectly at ease, but we don’t have the guts to do that (yet). On that first evening, we don’t really relax over dinner. However, as the animals are afraid of fire they don’t come too close. The only thing that continues to be a bit unsettling is the occasional screaming of the baboons. It is so quiet here that you only hear the rustling leaves, unbelievable! Once the fire has died out, we head off to bed. Our tent has many screen openings and we almost feel like we are lying out in the open, surrounded by the strange sounds of Africa.

In the morning we crawl out of the tent at dawn. The baboons are still scampering around - do they ever sleep? As we are packing up, we make a classic mistake: we leave the car doors open. Before we know it, there’s a monkey sitting in the car... the only way of getting him out is by chasing him with a stick. After a quick bite for breakfast, we drive off into the rising sun,

Botswana

further into the park.

Arjan Kastelein You can book a trip to Botswana through African Holidays. For more information, go to www.africanholidays.nl

Carnival in Recife A shimmering whirlwind of colour, rhythm and joy During the Carnival period and in the weeks leading up to it, the town of Recife is immersed in a party fever that knows no rival.

Every street corner and square in the city exudes exhilaration and joy, as thousands of partygoers take to the streets.

Originally the Recife carnival lasted three days, but today festivities rage on for at least a week. From Zé Pereira Saturday to Ash Wednesday, the entire city is dedicated to having fun and partying like there is no tomorrow. The streets are transformed into a dazzling sea of colours, rhythms and magical figures, as locals pull out their most treasured outfits and lose themselves in the celebrations. In the old town, colombinas and pierrôs parade through the streets to the sound of string orchestras, throwing confetti and paper serpents at the revellers.

Zé Pereira Saturday is the climax of the festivities: on this day around 2 million people flock to Recife from across the country. They squeeze through the narrow alleys of the old town to follow the Galo da Madrugada, the third largest carnival party in the world, in which music bands, dance groups and lavishly decorated trucks parade through the streets. We let ourselves be swept along in the party craze – while the intensity of the brasilero party fever is pretty overwhelming, it was also an unforgettable explosion of joy and happiness.

As we were wandering through the crowds we fell upon a dance band performing an unusual dance involving small colourful umbrellas. A local told us that this is the frevo, a popular folk dance that celebrated its 100th anniversary in 2007.

In nearby Olinda, the fun starts even earlier: one month before the carnival there are parties as maracatus, caboclinhos and samba groups prepare for the upcoming week of feastivities. Combining creativity, irreverence and a solid dose of humour, the revellers immerse themselves in the festivities and join in the many improvised parties. Because the large decorated trucks that are used in Recife can’t drive through Olinda’s steep narrow streets, the festivities here centre on three-metre tall dolls which are carried around the streets.

During Carnival, Olinda is a happy chaos of visitors from all over the world.

Locals open up their homes to tourists and residential homes become hostels. While the facilities can sometimes be basic, no one really cares – all anyone is thinking of is having fun because it is carnival!

Facts: Together with Rio and Salvador, Recife hosts the largest carnival party

Brazil

in the world.

For more information on Brazil, visit the website www.brazilinsight.com

Fernando De Noronha

With an idyllic climate, dazzling white beaches and crystal-clear waters teeming with marine life, the Fernanodo de Noronha archipelago is probably as close as you’re going to get to paradise on earth. The tiny island that lies 500 kilometres off the Brazilian coast only hosts 500 tourists a day, which means that after you arrive at the small airport and head off in one of the island’s special rental buggies – the only mode of transport used here – you hardly see a soul.

The island’s landmark is the Morro de Pico, a needle-like rock that is visible from everywhere on the island. From here you can head off and explore any of the dozen or so deserted, pristine beaches, little creeks and hidden bays.

With high rollers crashing onto the shore all year round, the island is a dream come true for surfers, while divers also delight in the amazing marine life with hundreds of colourful fish and corals.

Fernando de Noronha’s shores and sheltered bays are also a refuge and breeding place for spinner dolphins and sea turtles. If you head out to the Baia dos Golfinhos early in the morning you can catch the dolphins coming back from their hunt – before we knew it our boat was surrounded by hundreds of dolphins. As for sea turtles, the broad sheltered beach at Sueste Bay is one of their favourite breeding grounds. We even saw a turtle’s nest while we were having a picnic on the beach. It was marked by a red pole, placed there by the local turtle protection centre Tamar to protect the nest.

On our third day, we watched one of the most unforgettable sunsets from a hilltop near the ruins of San Pedro, an old Portuguese fortress. Overlooking the sea and the twin cliffs of Dois Irmãos, we watched the golden red sun sink into the sea. It was also here that we met João, a young photographer from Rio who has settled in Fernando de Noronha to capture the beauty of its wildlife and nature. He goes up to the San Pedro ruins every evening and has a little stall where he sells his photos. We liked his work so much that we asked him if we could use his work for Cooltravel: the photo of the turtle, the dolphin and the surfer are all João’s work.When the hour of sunset approaches, he grabs his camera and takes yet another picture of the sunset – to see

Brazil

whether it can be even more beautiful than yesterday’s picture.

For more information on Brazil, visit the website www.brazilinsight.com

Photography - João Vianna

A hidden paradise on earth

Cambodia

Angkor Wat Hidden temples in the jungle

We arrived in Phnom Penh and were immediately struck by how different it is from other Asian cities like Bangkok or Kuala Lumpur. In Phnom Penh it seems like time has stood still for fifty years – there are no skyscrapers and the people are really friendly and welcoming, totally unaffected by mass tourism.

From Phnom Penh we headed to Battambang, 300 kilometres from the capital, in the jungle. The colourful journey took six hours as we battled our way through a chaotic flow of honking Toyota Camaris. From Battambang we headed to Siem Reap by river boat. This is where we came to learn that time is a relative concept in Cambodia. A local had told us it took three hours; in reality it took eight hours. A local had told us that the journey took three hours. In reality, it took us eight – but as they say in Cambodia: “you arrive when you get there. “ In Siem Reap we took a tuk-tuk into the jungle to see the legendary temples of Angkor Wat. Even though we had heard stories and seen photos, nothing could have prepared us for the sight of these incredible structures. We had driven deep into the jungle when suddenly there was a bend in the road and we saw a series of magnificent temples looming up in front of us. We drew nearer and saw that they were surrounded by a 100-metre wide moat and as we chugged over the huge stone bridge that marked the entrance to the temple precinct we felt like the team of French explorers who first found the ruins in the mid-19th century. Angkor Wat is truly astounding: built in the 12th century, the sanctuary covers an area the size of Manhattan and contains 110 temples. The site was neglected after the 16th century so that today many of the structures are overgrown and huge trees have sprouted in and around the buildings.

We drove further and further into the jungle to a place that was completely deserted. Here we climbed to the top of a temple. We sat there for hours, listening to the silence and watching the sun trace its daily path through the sky. The silence was only broken by a Korean guy who suddenly appeared from nowhere and started singing an aria from a Verdi opera at the foot of a nearby shrine.

Cambodia

It was a strange and beautiful scene - something you get a lot of in Cambodia.

You can book your flight to Cambodia through Vietnam Airlines. For more information and tickets, visit the website www.vietnamairlines.com

Canada Kaleidoscope of cultures

Canada is a cultural mosaic of ancient cultures and pioneering spirit, of vibrant modern cities and primeval landscapes.

Urban buzz Canada’s cities exemplify the country’s diversity and rich culture. We visited Vancouver, Montreal and Toronto and found that they all have a vibrant art scene with museums, theatres, historic sights and an exciting nightlife. Each of these cities has its own character: Montreal enchanted us with its old-world charm – we wandered through the city centre and were struck by the strange mix of quaint 19th-century churches and modern skyscrapers. In comparison, Vancouver’s big-city rush bowled us over – what a great place! The city lies on English Bay and at the foot of the snow-capped Grouse Mountain, so that it is allegedly possible to ski in the morning, sail in the afternoon and make it back to town in time for cocktails! Toronto’s laidback attitude left us plenty of time for leisurely coffees on the beachfront. We lazed about and walked down the beachfront, headed to a music festival and indulged in delicious meals at the many local eateries.

Dazzling colours of nature The national parks are Canada’s natural jewels. At Banff and Jasper National Parks in the Canadian Rockies, we were spellbound by the sheer scale and beauty of the surrounding mountains, the alpine meadows and the emerald Photography - Mike Grandmaison | Chris Cheadle | Keith Douglas AllCanadaPhotos.com

Canada

green lakes. This is the domain of the grizzly bear, the wolf and the moose.

High up in the mountains we also encountered caribous, mountain goats and sheep, while the lakes were filled with rainbow trout, pike and salmon.

Quite a different spectacle awaited us at Wood Buffalo National Park, one of the largest in the world. The vast boreal plains that stretch to the horizon are home to the last remaining herds of bison in northern Canada and we were swept away by the wide open spaces and the mighty bison that live here.

The spirit of the elders Canada’s history goes back more than 5,000 years when the first inhabi­tants migrated to the Arctic from Asia. Today, their descendants, the Inuit and Canada’s Indian populations, keep their ancestors’ traditions and beliefs alive in stories, songs and customs.

Visiting the Northwest Territories, we discovered the Inuit way of life and learnt about their survival skills, living environment, language and, most importantly, their intimate knowledge of the land and all that dwell on it.

You can organise your trip to Canada thanks to the Canadian Tourism Commission. For more information, go to www.canada.travel

Quebec Four seasons of beauty

Known for its vast breathtaking sceneries, its varied wildlife and its rich cultural heritage, Quebec offers a wealth of activities and sights all year round.

Sailing with the whales During the summer months, hundreds of whales return to the Estuary and Gulf of Saint Lawrence to enjoy the abundant food supplies found there.

The breathtaking creatures, not only including sperm, humpback, fin, minke and killer whales, but also dolphins and porpoises, dive and surge out of the water, providing an incredible spectacle. To see the animals from close-up you can go on special cruises, and if you are keen to learn more about the whales and their habitat, you can also join a group of marine biologists as they set out to collect data about their living environment and feeding habits.

Forests of fire In autumn, Quebec’s forests are aflame with hues of bright red and orange.

This is the best time to swap your car for a hydroplane and embark on a breathtaking voyage of discovery over the endless network of lakes and rivers. Stay in one of the many famous pourvoiries, traditional Quebecois inns that were in the past used as private hunting clubs or luxury hostels. Situated in the heart of the Boreal Forest, these hotels offer a real escape from everyday routine and form a wonderful base for hikes, canoe trips and mountain biking adventures.

Snow-covered fairytale In winter, taking a dog-sledge trip through the enchanted snow-covered plains is a must. Wrapped in warm furs, you glide through a pristine white landscape that is silent except for the panting of the dogs and the crunching of the snow under the weight of the sledge.

Home of French culture In 2008, the city of Quebec will mark its 400th anniversary, with a year of festivities and events, including exhibitions, shows and a specially created anniversary site near the old port. The Old City of Quebec is a testimony to one of the great adventures of the 17th century and is today recognised as the cradle of French civilisation in North America. Wandering through the streets

Canada

of the old town, one quickly gains an insight into the city’s rich history.

You can organise your trip to Quebec thanks to Destination Quebec. For more information, go to www.bonjourquebec.com/fr

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The Forbidden City Home of the emperors

The Forbidden City is the largest and best-preserved cluster of China’s ancient buildings. Indeed, for the five centuries of its operation, through the reign of 24 emperors, ordinary Chinese were forbidden from even approaching the walls of the palace.

From within, the emperors - the Sons of Heaven -ruled with absolute authority over their millions of subjects. Their lives, right up to the fall of the Manchu in this century, were governed by an extraordinarily developed taste for luxury and excess.

We visited the Forbidden City during the week and the place was practically deserted: we didn’t have to wait in line at the entrance or at any of the temples and we had more than enough space and time to take pictures without being jostled by crowds of tourists. We wandered through the city for hours, losing ourselves among the endless array of temples, halls, shrines, courtyards and pleasure gardens. The place is quite overwhelming and it seemed un­imaginable to us that people lived like this up to the beginning of the 20 th century. Throughout the complex, there is a lot of meticulous restoration work going on in a bid to preserve the site for future generations.

After walking around for some time, we accidentally discovered a Starbucks, built entirely in Forbidden City style – we could easily have missed it – but the coffee was great as ever. Later on, we also stopped at a tiny Chinese tea shop, where artwork was on sale.

One of the little facts that amused us was that if 100,000 Chinese visited the Forbidden City each week, it would still take 250 years, or 10 generations, for every Chinese citizen to visit the site. That means there is no way the whole population can ever visit the Forbidden City!

We also learnt that the layout of the halls was designed according to the theories of ‘yin and yang’ and since the Forbidden City was at the exact centre of Beijing, and Beijing was considered the centre of the universe, the harmony in the city was believed to be supreme.

Yellow, the symbol of the royal family, is the dominant colour in the Forbidden City. Roofs are built with yellow glazed tiles; decorations in the palace are painted yellow; even the bricks on the ground are made yellow by a special process. However, there is one exception: the royal library has a black roof – black was believed to represent water and therefore had the

China

potential to extinguish fire.

A special place to stay in Beijing is the Kempinksi Beijing Lufthansa Center.

For more information and bookings, visit the website www.kempinski.com You can book your flight to Beijing through Cathay Pacific. For more information and tickets, visit the website www.cathaypacific.com

20

China Following the Great Wall to the sea We arrived in Beijing with just one thought in our minds: go to the Great Wall and follow it to the place where it meets the Bo Hai Sea, 300 kilometres further up. We had heard that the point where the wall meets the sea is stunning and really worth a visit, and we also thought it would be interesting to follow the wall through the rugged and inhospitable landscapes it passes through.

However, upon arrival we soon found out that it would be impossible to carry out our plan. Not only were all the hotels on the coast closed for the winter season, the roads to the sea were also apparently very run down. So instead, we headed out to the wall early one morning; we wanted to go to a part of the wall that was not too touristy and ended up at the Shiguan section.

Here we came across an unusual series of modern buildings. After some enquiries, it turned out this was the “Commune by the Great Wall�, a boutique hotel consisting of 12 buildings designed by contemporary Asian architects.

We explored the place, wandering through the stylish space and admiring the views of the wall, which is different in every villa. Each time you catch a glimpse of the wall, you feel like you are discovering this great colossus for the first time, depending on the angle and lighting.

After our extended tour of the Commune, it was time to go and explore the wall itself. At the time of our visit, the Commune had exclusive access to a section of the wall which has since then been closed to visitors to protect it from damage. We were among the last people to be allowed onto this segment which was a pretty amazing experience: a biting cold wind, no people around, and endless views all around. It was truly memorable, especially when you think about how many people and animals toiled away to build this 5,000 kilometre wall, as well as the many hundreds of

China

thousands who have walked over it.

A special place to stay in Beijing is the Kempinski Commune by the Great Wall. For more information and bookings, please visit the website www.kempinski.com You can book your flight to Beijing through Cathay Pacific. For more information and tickets, visit the website www.cathaypacific.com 22

Hong Kong Tai Chi, Dim Sum and 24/7 adrenalin Described as the city where East meets West, Hong Kong is a fascinating mix of skyscrapers, designer boutiques, small Chinese shops and traditional markets. The territory of Hong Kong consists of the Kowloon peninsula off mainland China, the island of Hong Kong and 236 small islands scattered in the South China Sea.

We stayed in a wonderful boutique hotel with just 60 rooms and a tasteful arty design that made us instantly feel at home. One of the highlights of our stay was a memorable Tai Chi session on the roof terrace of the Inter­continental Hotel’s presidential suite. A senior Tai Chi master led us through the slow, controlled moves and guided our breathing as we gazed out over Hong Kong harbour.

With 7 million inhabitants, Hong Kong has the highest density of designer outlets in the world and more Rolls Royces drive through the city’s chaotic

Later in the day we hopped on the Peak Tram, a wonderful piece of heritage

streets than anywhere else on the planet. Hong Kong’s immense wealth is

dating back to the days when Hong Kong was a British colony. It took us

not only reflected in the endless number of shopping malls and exclusive

up the 550-metre Peak from where we had stunning views over the city’s

bars and restaurants, but also in the vibrant cultural life and the many art

business district, Victoria Harbour and Kowloon. From there we got back on

galleries and contemporary art festivals.

the tram and headed to Happy Valley where we attended the horse races, another institution that dates back to colonial times.

But just a few blocks away from this opulence and wealth, lies a different world – one of small winding alleyways filled with old-fashioned shops and market stalls selling Chinese herbal medicine, Buddhist paraphernalia and oddities like synthetic shark fin soup.

But whether it is at a hidden market down a little back street or in one of the metropolis’ many soaring skyscrapers, business is on everyone’s mind and people work hard for their money. As we wandered through the different neighbourhoods, we were struck by this: in the business districts people rushed along on the way to their next business meeting, while shop and stall You can book your flight to Hong Kong through Cathay Pacific. For more

small diner-type restaurants to finally sit down to a well-earned meal.

information and tickets, visit the website www.cathaypacific.com

China

owners stayed open past midnight. Then, they all crowded into the many

24

China Luxury in the People’s Republic I regularly travel to China as part of my job and each time there is something new to discover and explore.

Located in the midst of Beijing’s “hutong”district with its narrow alleyways, the Red Capital Club is one of my favourite places – one of Beijing’s hotspots and a place of revolutionary decadence. The large courtyard home is decorated with ornaments from the Cultural Revolutuion: Zhou Enlai and Deng Xiaoping’s armchairs, the collected works of Mao Zedong, and good-looking waitresses in revolutionary uniforms. However, when we asked one of the young waitresses about the poem by Mao on the wall, she has no idea what it meant. The pricy restaurant next door serves the great leaders’ favourite dishes and is popular among artists, film stars and other celebrities.

The terracotta Qin warriors in Xi’an and the Great Wall, in Beijing are, of course highlights that can’t be missed. We had the chance to view the warriors not just from a distance on the main public viewing platform, but also close-up from above by gaining access to a special platform. The Wall is beautiful at Badaling, but it is very busy. We travelled a bit further to where it is calmer and were able to experience the historic power of this unique structure that runs through a spectacular landscape. We went for a short hike, followed by a barbecue with a stunning view of the floodlit Wall.

Most cities today have excellent four and five star hotels. Staying in these places is a wonderful experience. Many of the new hotels are carefully designed, sometimes with modern features and others entirely in traditional and classical style to suit the local context. We visited the soothing spa in one of these hotels and enjoyed an impressive modern art exhibit in another.

In the southern province of Guilin we took a balloon ride over the Li River and the picturesque landscape of cone-shaped hills and small villages - an undisputed highlight of our visit.

Cruising down the Yangtze in a luxury ship with a private suite, we travelled in the direction of Shanghai. In this new metropolis we admired the art deco architecture on the Bund and the modern design in Pudong. Later in the afternoon, we visited the artist workshops at Suzhou Creek before enjoying a delicious Chinese nouvelle cuisine meal in an exclusive restaurant – China

China

really is a fusion of old and new, dazzling style and age-old heritage!

Kees van Galen You can book a trip to China through VNC Travel. For more information, go to www.vnc.nl

26

Monteverde Sailing through the rainforest I lean backwards, struggle with myself, before finally letting gravity take over. After that I’m free – zipping through the canopy of one of the world’s most unique rainforests, gliding between walls of green, punching through the mist until my destination takes shape out of the emerald gloom. My descent slackens and my guide catches me, stops my momentum and I find myself once again standing on a steel mesh platform 80 metres above the forest floor.

I’m standing tall among the massive trees of the Monteverde Cloud Forest – its name arising from the fact that it is awash with clouds which snake their way through the trees and obscure the many pathways waiting to be explored. Straddling the Continental Divide at 1,440 metres, the area is home to more than 100 species of mammals, 400 species of birds (including 30 kinds of hummingbirds), tens of thousands of insects and 2,500 species of plants.

While there are plenty of ground trails, I’ve opted to take an elevated tour of the forest. As well as zip lines, a series of hanging walkways allow you to discover this amazing space from a tree-top level.

It’s here – back on my feet but not on the ground – that I really get a sense of the forest. Standing still on one of the many suspension bridges, waiting in silence, cut off from any other visitor by the fog swirling around both ends of the walkway. Massive trees soar up around me, dripping in green and vegetation. The air is wet and heavy. Birds flit through the trees, darting in and out of shadow. It’s majestic, I feel totally alone in this naturally built cathedral.

Coming off the sky trail I stop in at the park’s famous Hummingbird Gallery which features the work of photographers Michael and Patricia Fogden. The pair spends months at a time in the reserve, trying to get that special shot.

Outside their gallery they have set up special feeding stations which are full of hummingbirds – a constantly changing exhibition of sound, colour and motion.

The reserve supports a wide variety of life – including American Quakers who fled the US in 1951 to avoid conscription to the Korean War as it was against their pacifist principles. They established the Monteverde Cheese Factory which sells more than 14 varieties, along with homemade breads, cured meats and jams. I went for the ice cream – one scoop coconut and one

Costa Rica

scoop mango – delicious.

Tijanca van der Poel You can book a trip to Costa Rica through NBBS Reizen. For more information, go to www.nbbs.nl

28

Dalmatian Coast Sailing through history

Combining sun, sea and wonderful laziness, with culture, nature and unforgettable vistas, a cruise down the Dalmatian coast is as diverse as it is memorable.

We boarded ship in Dubrovnik, where we were welcomed by the Croatian crew, Ante and Ivan, who own the 41-metre three-master ship that was to be our home for the next week. It was equipped with everything we could wish for: comfortable cabins, a huge sun deck and a whirlpool on board – a promising start!

By mid-morning we set off and headed north along the coast to visit the traditional fishing villages of Zaton Veliki and Slano. On the way there, we dropped anchor in a remote bay for our first dive into the deep blue waters.

Heading on, we sailed along a mountainous peninsula towards the town of Korčula. Surrounded by dense pine forests, this ancient town is often dubbed “little Dubrovnik” for its fortress-like appearance.

Part of the nearby island of Mljet has been declared a national park together with two salt water lakes that are connected to the sea via a narrow canal. In the largest of the two lakes there is a small island with the ruins of an ancient monastery.

Heading south, we sailed out of Croatian waters and into Montenegro, entering the deep Bay of Kotor that is enclosed on both sides by tall mountains. We spent the night in the harbour of Perast. In its heyday in the 17th and 18th centuries, this was a centre for shipping and shipbuilding and the Perast merchant fleet had at least 100 ships.

Deeper into the bay lies Kotor, surrounded by an impressive city wall. With a height of up to 20 metres and thicknesses varying between 3 and 15 metres, it not only surrounds the triangular city centre, but also the adjacent hill. From Kotor, we made an excursion to the “land of the black mountains” – up winding roads, through stunning scenery to the peaks of the Lovcén Mountains which offered a stunning view over the whole bay of Kotor. In one of the mountain villages we stopped for a delicious lunch of dried ham, sheep’s cheese and fresh bread.

After a leisurely trip back to Croatia that was punctuated by many swimming breaks, we arrived back in Dubrovnik a couple of days later. We still had time to discover this stunning old city with its impressive city walls and many

Croatia

sights.

Ralf Hobirk You can book a trip to Croatia through I.D.Riva Tours. For more information, go to www.idriva.com

30

Havana Salsa and Cuba Libre

We arrived in Havana and immediately felt at home in this buzzing city that is steeped in nostalgia. Things are very laidback: Cubans live for the moment and don’t think too much about what the future may hold.

Havana is a diverse city, with very distinctive neighbourhoods. In Havana Vieja you can smell the past: the Spanish, the pirates and the Cubans all passed through here and left their mark on the quarter.

Che Guevara and the revolution is also omnipresent, not just in Havana, but throughout the country. We were initially quite surprised at this, but as we heard more stories about life in Cuba, we came to understand it better.

We wandered all over the city and noticed that while each neighbourhood has its own stories, they all have certain things in common: good live music and rum are everywhere!

On our first evening, we went for a drink – a Cuba Libre of course – in a bar where we were immediately dragged into our first spontaneous salsa lesson.

They taught us the steps to the tunes of the live band and soon enough the whole bar was cheering us on, so we probably didn’t do badly!

Next we went to the world-famous Club Tropicana – an amazing place! There was a dazzling spectacle with incredible singers, dancers and musicians who performed a breathtaking show with a 1930s touch to it.

Music is everywhere and we just could not get enough. We went to see the Cabaret Parisien at the Hotel Nacional de Cuba. The hotel, which was our home during our stay in Havana, is an interesting landmark in itself and doubles as a museum. The cabaret was excellent with great performers in an intimate setting and accompanied by tasty Mojitos and Cuba Libres.

Havana also has beaches close by, where we went on a Sunday morning, chilling among the Havañeros. The Playas del Este are only 30 minutes from the city centre, which was convenient as we had to be back in time for lunch at the famous café- restaurant Del Oriente, an old establishment frequented by aristocrats before the revolution and where a pianist played discrete tunes to accompany our meal.

After lunch, we went to a boxing match at the boxing school where the world-famous 1930s star Kid Chocolate trained and watched a match

Cuba

between the Havana and Santa Clara boxers - quite a spectacle!

You can book a trip to Cuba through Kuoni. For more information, go to www.kuoni.nl For more information on Cuba tourism visit the website www.cubainfo.de A great place to stay in Havana is Hotel Nacional de Cuba.

For more information, visit the website www.hotelnacionaldecuba.com 32

Around Havana Cruising through Cuba in an Old Timer Havana is a good base from which to make day trips around Cuba.

We first headed west to Pinar del Rio province, an area of tobacco plantations with lots of eco-tourism. We enjoyed a great lunch at la Casa del Campesino in las Terrazas, one of the eco-communities in the area. Chickens and cats wandered around the courtyard and we had a great view of the garden. After lunch, we headed for the Viñales Valley that is known for its mogotes, unusually shaped limestone hills that were formed by erosion – a unique and amazing landscape. In the valley we also visited Cueva del Indio, a partly flooded cave which we explored on foot and by boat.

Along the way we stopped at Palacio de Valle in Cienfuegos, an extravagantly

Our second trip from Havana took us to Trinidad on the Caribbean Sea with

The area around Trinidad used to be a key sugarcane and tobacco producing

our driver Fernando and our guía (guide) Jorge. During the trip we were

area and thousands of slaves worked here in the 18th and 19th centuries.

treated to a string of great stories, some from before the revolution and

Valle de los Ingenios, a series of valleys near Trinidad, was particularly

others about the revolutionary ideas that are being put into practice today.

important at the time. We climbed up the tall watchtower that dominates

It was an interesting discussion about life in Cuba and our life, with a back-

the valley to admire the great view.

decorated Moorish house that was originally built as a home in the early 20th century. Here we listened to the local diva Carmencita, an elderly lady who sang beautiful old tunes to piano music and evoked a wonderful air of nostalgia.

Trinidad is a beautiful town, striking through its multi-coloured colonial houses that line the straight streets. On Plaza Mayor we admired the town’s most elaborate buildings, while our guide told us about Trinidad’s turbulent history.

drop of stunning landscapes. Cuba is a very unspoilt country and our trip took us through a landscape of green hills dotted with Royal Palms – the

In the evening, we went to a bar to soak up the local atmosphere: the band

Cuban national tree. Traffic was light and the cars we did pass were mostly

was playing and people were dancing, so we figured we might as well order

the great American old-timers that Cuba is renowned for.

another Cuba Libre!

For more information on Cuba tourism visit the website www.cubainfo.de You can book a trip to Cuba through Kuoni. For more information, go to www.kuoni.nl You can book your flight to Cuba through Martinair. For more information

Cuba

and tickets, visit the website www.martinair.com

57

Cuba

Curaçao Painted in any colour but white Taking a deep breath, I sink below the warm turquoise water and enter another world; an underwater kingdom of vivid colours and strange creatures. A school of bright silver fish moves like a cloud through the water, beneath me a red crab scrabbles over the white sand and a dark black fish with bright blue stripes slowly swims past. Corals of all shapes and sizes – green, yellow and red – provide bursts of colour.

I’m exploring the amazing waters surrounding Curaçao, the capital of the Dutch Antilles string of islands located about 30 miles off the coast of Venezuela. Take the cobbled streets and wedding cake architecture of Amsterdam, mix in a Caribbean climate, a lot of colour and 35 pristine beaches and you begin to get the idea. The Spanish, Dutch and English have all at one stage controlled the island. It was the Dutch who gave Curaçao its present look and under them the island served as a major slave trading point, infusing it with an African soul. The kaleidoscope of cultural influences is best exemplified by the local Papamiento language - a mixture of Portuguese, Spanish, Dutch and African dialects.

Curaçao is packed with international restaurants, but we headed away from

Photography -Curaçao Toeristen Bureau

the upmarket harbour front and into the famous old market, Marsche Bieuw, in downtown Willemstad. Open air restaurants made up of long counters and lots of stools serve up local dishes which blend African, Dutch, Spanish, Portuguese, African and Asian influences. We had the local okra soup and an Indonesian inspired goat curry.

You can certainly spend all day snorkelling, diving, horse riding, wind­surfing or simply – like us – lying on the beach, under an umbrella, with a good book. Willemstad, a typical port town in the spirit of Havana and San Juan, is however definitely worth exploring. Its historic city centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with around 750 buildings of significance, many which serve as galleries, boutique hotels, cafes and restaurants.

Looking through the gallery of a local artist whose bright African-inspired pictures caught our eye, we struck up a conversation and were told that all the island’s buildings were painted white until a European doctor noticed that the locals were going snow blind because of the intense glare; the government immediately passed a law declaring that buildings be painted

Curaçao

in any colour but white!

Aralys Martina You can book a trip to Curaçao through Caribbean Travel. For more information, go to www.caribbeantravel.nl For more information on Curaçao tourism visit the website www.curacao.com

59

Ecuador Amazon under your skin

From the Ecuadorian capital Quito we head south for what will be a life-changing journey through the Amazon and Andes Mountains. As we leave the city further behind us, the landscape changes, becomes more dramatic, with high cliffs and tall vol­ canoes in the distance. And then we head into the jungle. Our car barely fits onto the narrow suspension bridge that marks the beginning of a different world: the world of the Indians who have lived here since the beginning of time and a world where man still lives in harmony with nature and the spirits of the jungle.

Our Belgian guide Lucas has adopted this life for good. Many years ago he came here to visit and never left; today he lives in an Indian village with his wife Virginia and their nine children.

On our first evening in the jungle we take part in a shamanistic initiation ritual. We are surrounded by darkness and the sounds from the jungle seem to draw nearer and nearer. The candles cast flickering shadows on the wooden floor while Shaman Enrique draws each of us into the protection ritual. He pours liquor over me and then blows incense around my head: purification and the driving out of the evil that I have brought with me from the West – now I am ready for the journey.

The next day we hike to Don Roberto through a wonderful landscape: everything is brown and green but in so many different shades that my eyes have trouble taking it in. There are insects everywhere: stick insects, fluorescent beetles, spiders, huge grasshoppers and the most beautiful butterflies I’ve ever seen. We taste jungle grapes, smell wild coriander, inhale powerful tree saps and nibble on caramel-coloured caterpillars which taste of garlic butter.

We are immersed in the world of the Indians and marvel at their intimate knowledge of the surrounding environment.

In Lucas’ home village, where we arrive several days later, I participate in an ahayuasca ceremony and emerge a different person. After just a week in the jungle I feel at one with the Indians and with their way of life and when we get back to ‘civilization’ I miss the sounds of the jungle and my sleep is rest-

Ecuador

less, filled with images of the Indian spirits I have bonded with.

Barry Kooijmans You can book a trip to Ecuador through Nomad Travel Experience. For more information, go to www.nomad.info

61

Secrets of the City Paris is a city with many faces and hidden treasures. I love wan­dering through the different neighbourhoods and discovering these at my leisure, exploring the local markets or roaming through the many gardens and parks.

Besides the many architectural and cultural treasures, Paris also harbours great natural beauty, with hundreds of green squares, gardens and parks. In the Marais, I like walking down the Promenade Plantée, a garden built on top of a former railway viaduct that runs from the Bastille to the Bois de Vincennes. At ground level, the viaduct arches have been converted into a series of trendy shops where fashion designers, interior decorators, craftsmen and artists present their goods. On the other side of the city, the Parc André-Citroën has a very sleek design featuring greenery, glass, stone and water. One of my favourite parts is the Jardin en Mouvement, a series of gardens with different themes.

On Sundays, Parisians head out into the street to explore their city – it is the perfect time to soak up the atmosphere. I often just settle in one of the deck chairs at the Jardin de Tuileries and watch the world go by: Parisian families on their Sunday walk, amorous couples embracing and joggers speeding past. The nearby Orangerie des Tuileries has a couple of impressive Monets, including the world-famous water lilies, while the newly opened Musee du quai Branly offers a new perspective on non-Western art with an inspiring and colourful display of African and Asian art.

The Centre Pompidou is one of the classics that never ceases to amaze. With its striking architecture, this building offers the perfect setting for exceptional exhibitions. For an extra classy shot of caffeine, I always head up to the sixth floor where the Costes brothers have combined the best view with a sleek interior at Chez Georges restaurant.

The Canal Saint Martin runs from Le Marais to the yachting harbour near the Place de la Bastille. I love wandering down the quay here – it’s almost like you’re not in Paris, but in a cosy village with quirky shops. Another well-kept secret is the Village St Paul in the 4th arrondissement. Between the Rue St. Paul and Rue St. Antoine, a warren of small alleyways accommodate

France

artists, designers and galleries.

Josee Schouten For more information on France tourism visit the website www.frankrijk.nl

63

Photography - Peter Simon de Vries and Beeldbank

Paris

Berlin Fusing the old and the new

We cruised up to Berlin in a 500-horsepower camouflage print Mercedes rental car. When you speed down the German autobahn at 250 kilometres an hour, Berlin isn’t that far at all!

We stayed at the swanky Adlon Kempinski, which combines a rich history and an authentic atmosphere, with luxurious hi-tech rooms, contemporary design and state-of-the-art equipment. Located opposite the Brandenburg Gate, the hotel was inaugurated by Kaiser Wilhelm II in 1907. At the time Berlin was Europe’s cultural capital and the Adlon was the city’s premier hotel where the cream of the crop resided and socialised.

As soon as we had checked in, we headed out to explore the city. We wandered down Unter den Linden, popped into some of the exclusive boutiques along the Friedrichstrasse and went to check out some of the modern architecture built since reunification on the Potsdamer Platz. The Sony Centre’s circular courtyard with its glass roof is the most impressive showpiece here – it’s open to the elements but also provides a welcome retreat from the bustle of Berlin.

Later on, walking down Oranienburgstrasse, we noticed a very unusual building covered in weird and wonderful art work. This, we learnt, was the Tacheles; a formerly derelict building that was taken over by a group of international artists in the 1990s who established their homes and studios in it. The building’s exterior is decorated with works in progress and inside there is a cool café-bar where regular gigs and events take place.

Dinner was had at Fritz Fischer, a classy waterfront restaurant with views of the Oberbaumbrücke and the Spree. The food was great and the atmosphere laid back. Next we bought a 19 Clubshuttle Berlin Pass, which gets you into a dozen of Berlin’s big-name clubs and provides transport between them. Our first stop was Watergate, a hot spot on the Berlin club scene. After dancing till we dropped, we went to chill out upstairs, sipping G&T’s as we looked out

Germany

over the Oberbaumbrücke and the waters of the Spree.

Two special places to stay in Berlin are the Kempinski Adlon and the Kempinski Bristol.

For more information and bookings, please visit the websites www.hotel-adlon.de and www.kempinski.com

65

Kefalonia and Ithaca In search of Odysseus

It was windy as our ship approached Kefalonia and already from a distance the scent of wild flowers, thyme, oregano and rosemary wafted towards us. Kefalonia is the largest of the Ionian Islands and combines great beaches with rugged mountains and picturesque villages. We stayed in Fiskardo, a beautiful little port where time seems to have stood still. Venetian houses line the waterfront and locals hang out at the little cafés watching the boats come and go – it was the perfect place to spend an afternoon lazing about on a terrace, enjoying the sunshine and the relaxed atmosphere.

After a delicious seafood dinner at one of the local eateries we headed for the Emelisse Art Hotel near Fiskardo, a secluded hotel set between acres of cypress and cedar trees. Perched high over the sea on a rocky outcrop, it had splendid views over the sea.

From Kefalonia we decided to take a short trip to Ithaca, once the home of Homer’s mythical hero Odysseus. On this small island Greek mythology really seems to come to life and one has the impression that the islanders themselves have just stepped out of an ancient legend. We visited the Cave of the Nymphs where Odysseus is believed to have hidden the presents he brought back from his travels. The cave has two entrances, one for humans and one for gods. Apart from the stalactites hanging from the ceiling, there were also the ruins of an ancient altar inside the cave. For lunch we had brought a large hamper with us, so we sought out a secluded spot on Dexia Beach near the cave. This beach also plays a role in Odysseus’ story as it is here that he is believed to have first set foot ashore after his long journey.

That evening we stayed at the Perantzada Hotel, a boutique hotel hidden away in an alleyway in the seaside town of Vathi. The light-blue neoclassical building was designed by the 19th-century architect Ernst Schiller.

Today, the traditional design of the building has been innovatively combined with modern elements and artwork by leading contemporary artists.

For us, this visit to the Ionian Islands was a perfect combination of culture and nature – a journey into ancient history and the world of Greek myths, while at the same time an idyllic escape into an unspoilt and wild natural

Greece

environment.

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You can book a trip to Greece through Polyplan Reizen. For more information, go to www.polyplan.nl

69

Zagoria Green Haven

If you are looking for real peace and quiet, the region of Zagoria is the place to be. This forgotten, rugged part of Greece that is today a nature reserve remains largely undiscovered by tourists, yet it is home to stunning natural and cultural sites including the oldest oracle in Greece.

We stayed in Dilofo, a sleepy village with just a couple of houses, a quaint square with a tree in the middle, no shops and only seven permanent inhabitants. The only hotel in the village is Archontiko Dilofo, a beautifully restored manor house that forms the perfect base from which to explore this untouched corner of the country.

Our first stop was the Vikos Gorge, a 900-metre deep canyon where wild bears still roam. The trails leading to the gorge were slightly confusing, but after about half an hour we came to the edge of the gorge, an impressive plunging gap in the landscape with beautiful views all around. In the village of Kipi, the stone bridges are a testimony to the sophistication of the ancient civilisations that flourished here. The village itself has just six houses, but nearly as many stone bridges that date back several thousand years. Despite their venerable old age, they are still in perfect condition and are used on a daily basis.

Further to the south, the Oracle of Dodoni is more than 4,000 years old. In its time, it was the most popular sanctuary after the Oracle of Delphi. The preGreek inhabitants of the area worshipped Mother Earth, who was embodied by a holy oak. The tree was surrounded by bronze kettles that were suspended in such a way that they touched each other and rattled in the wind. Prophecies were made by listening to the rattling of the kettles in combination with the rustling of the oak leaves and the cooing of the black doves that nestled in the branches above. While the holy oak of Dodoni disappeared long ago, we were still able to visit the remains of the Dodona theatre and guess at the many

Greece

rituals that took place here millennia ago.

You can book a trip to Greece through Polyplan Reizen. For more information, go to www.polyplan.nl

71

Budapest Baths, coffee houses and the blue Danube Bisected by the great Danube River, the Hungarian capital Budapest is an authentic Central European city full of old-world charm: large boulevards, stylish restaurants and delicious hot baths. We decided to visit one of these thermal baths, the Gellért. The splendid nineteenth-century complex is like a maze with various pools, steam rooms and baths which are used to treat rheumatic conditions. It is fascinating to watch the locals go through the bathing ritual and diligently soak in the steaming hot water. Some of them even play chess in the baths to pass the time!

Next we treated ourselves to another long-held local tradition: enjoying a strong black coffee and a sizeable piece of chocolate cake at one of the city’s swanky nineteenth-century coffee houses. During our stay we also sampled a number of chic and cool restaurants, including the very stylish caviar bar, Arany Kaviar, and the Fortuna with its champagne cellars. The newly opened Baraka is one of Budapest’s best, with delicious Asian-French style food and a simple but sleek interior.

Budapest used to have a large Jewish population and wandering around the streets of the Jewish quarter with its many monuments, little shops and bars, one can still guess at the liveliness of the area in pre-war times. Old Pest today has a very relaxed atmosphere and many of the abandoned buildings have been taken over by artists, musicians and other creative minds. We tried to track down some of these artist colonies, but as the artists frequently move into “new-old” premises they were kind of hard to find. For shopping we headed to the up-and-coming Andrássy út and then to the Market Hall on the Danube, a huge nineteenth-century covered market where all types of meats, cheeses, fruits and vegetables are on display.

Our final stop was Statue Park, a fascinating collection of monuments from Communist times: statues of Lenin, Marx and Engels and other Communist leaders have been placed in the park on the edge of town as a testimony to 20th-century history. At the gift shop, where a CD of revolutionary songs was blaring out of a 1950s radio set, we couldn’t resist buying a Stalin candle to

Hungary

take home.

A special place to stay in Budapest is the Kempinski Corvinus. For more information and bookings, please visit the website www.kempinski-budapest.com You can book your flight to Budapest through Malev. For more information and tickets, visit the website www.malev.com 73

Iceland Surging energy

We had six days in Iceland and we were determined to get off the beaten track and discover the country’s wild natural beauty. We headed west to the village of Hellnar at the foot of the Snaefellsnes volcano. Here, you don’t have to seek out the energy; it seeks you out and washes over you with great power. Nature is all around, with breathtaking landscapes that offer a glimpse into the history of the earth’s creation.

As soon as the sun came out we took the snow cat and headed for the glacier, driving up the steep track until the snow blocked the way. Then we continued on foot, clambering to the summit through the thick snow. Reaching the top was amazing, like being on top of the world with not a living soul in sight.

The coastline marks the zone where the energy line reaches the island – a hotspot for meditation. It’s amazing how you can really feel the energy flowing into you, recharging your body and soul. We spent more than an hour in this spot, with the sun beating down on our heads and the energy seeping into us – definitely a unique experience.

Near Snaelfellsnes on the same peninsula lies Helgafell, or the Holy Mound, a special place where locals come to have their wishes granted at the grave of a nun. Legend has it that anyone who walks around the grave three times and then climbs to the top of the mound without uttering a word, looking back or thinking bad thoughts, will have their wishes granted. We climbed up the mound and performed the ritual – now we’ve just got to wait for our wishes to come true…

Travelling back east to the mainland we went to see the Gullfoss, Europe’s most powerful waterfall and an overwhelming testimony to the power of nature. The mist clouds hovering over the hammering falls are filled with dozens of rainbows, creating a wonderful spectacle of colour and light.

Our trip ended in the soothing waters of the Blue Lagoon, a geothermal spa with outdoor hot springs. We dipped into the hot water and let the impressions and experiences of the last six days sink in – a great end to a truly

Iceland

energising and cleansing journey.

You can book your flight to Reykjavik through Icelandair.

For more information and tickets, visit the website www.icelandair.com

75

Bangalore The buzz of the future Big Business Known as India’s Silicon Valley, Bangalore is home to thousands of IT companies including multinational computer giants and homegrown computing success stories like Wipro and Infosys, two companies that have rapidly grown to be multi-billion dollar ventures. As soon as we arrived, we felt the great economic buzz that resonates today in this Indian San Francisco. While it is a lot smaller than Mumbai, it feels just as crowded and chaotic. This is perhaps partly due to the more than 100,000 motor rickshaws that ply the streets, generating a frantic, chaotic street scene.

We were received and guided through the city by the staff of the Leela Palace Bangalore, a sumptuous place just outside the centre. Everything had been arranged for us - even a meeting with the hotel manager to make sure all our demands were met and that we would be well taken care of during our stay.

We met in the Library Bar where we had a nice café latte. The bar has a very warm and special atmosphere and the sofa’s and armchairs gave us another warm welcome feeling. We spent some time here reading a marvelous book about the city of Bangalore, offered to us by the hotel manager.

We spent our first day exploring the city’s sights and visited the Hindu Bull temple dedicated to Shiva. By chance, we were there during one of the ceremonies and were able to watch the monks worshipping a huge bull carved out of granite.

Indian lunch Opened in 1924, the Mavalli Tiffin Room, or MTR, is a Bangalore institution with a loyal following throughout India. Having a meal at this place really is something else: first we paid for our table and were sent to a waiting room.

After some time, a waiter came to fetch us and led us to one of the dining rooms where we sat down at a large table with 20 other people. As soon as we were seated, waiters started filing in with enormous bowls of rice, vegetables, pickles, naan bread and all sorts of dishes that varied from spicy to way too spicy. In accordance with local custom, we ate with our right hands only, an interesting experiment for untrained Westerners like us! It was a great lunch, with a tantalising array of tastes in a very unusual environment.

Mysore Palace The next day, we took a car and went to Mysore where we visited one of southern India’s surviving Maharaja palaces. With its air of majesty and grandeur, the well-preserved Mysore Palace has over the centuries been home to many Maharajas. We noticed that these wealthy rulers were very inter­nationally orientated: the palace was decorated with Italian marble, Belgian stain-glass windows, and other furniture of European manufacture.

To visit the palace interior, you have to take off your shoes, so we strolled through the great halls barefoot.

India

To finish our stay in Bangalore we had dinner at Zen, the pan-Asian restaurant at the Leela Palace where we sampled Japanese, Thai, Korean, Singaporean and Balinese delights. This could well be the best Asian food we have ever tasted.

A special place to stay is the Leela Palace Kempinski Bangalore in Bangalore.

For more information and bookings, go to www.theleela.com For more information on India, visit the website www.incredibleindia.org You can book your flight to Bangalore through SriLankan Airlines. For more information and tickets, visit the website www.srilankan.aero

79

Goa A different India Just 45 minutes by plane from Mumbai lies the small state of Goa. Known to many for its lazy beaches and laidback holiday atmosphere that attracts thousands of tourists each year, we discovered that there is much more to this small former Portuguese colony than just sun, sand and hippies.

We visited Goa during the monsoon season and were stunned to see how it transforms the land into a rich green environment. We stayed in the small village of Cavelossim in the south, where we were welcomed by staff at the Leela Goa beach resort that lies in a stunning setting of lagoons and lush gardens. We stayed at the Club, which actually is a luxury hotel within a hotel.

Here we had our own butler who took very good care of us and showed us around the property. We had a swim in the pool, took a stroll down the private beach of the resort and sat down for dinner at the beach restaurant Susegado. The weather that evening was great, so we fully enjoyed the experience.

The next day the rain started. We had never seen so much rain falling from the sky, but soon got used to it, and found that for the locals daily life just carries on. People use umbrellas and splash through the large puddles in their flip-flops, heading to work, school and on errands. The rain doesn’t seem to bother them; on the contrary, for Indians, the monsoon season is a favorite time to go on holidays because it is not too hot and the sun isn’t too fierce.

During our stay, we visited the remote Tambdi Surla with its beautiful Mahadeva Shiva temple. We walked there in the pouring rain and saw the structure looming up through the lush greenery in front of us – it was truly an extraordinary sight. The place was deserted, except for the priest who takes care of the temple and who let us wander about the shrine freely.

After the temple, we visited a spice farm where we received a warm welcome and were offered a delicious herbal tea that is said to be good for your intestines and metabolism. The farm’s owners also showed us around the grounds and showed us the spices: cinnamon trees, vanilla leaves and basmati plants – all exuding delicious smells.

But the most extraordinary and unusual place in Goa is the old state capital Old Goa, which has retained its Portuguese heritage and has a real Mediterranean atmosphere, albeit with an Indian twist. More than 15 churches were built here over the course of the 16th and 17th centuries for a population of just 200,000!

In Old Goa, we walked up a hill to the church of Our Lady of the Mount, where we had a splendid view over the old city’s 10 remaining churches that today lie in the midst of a thick forest by the Mandovi estuary.

Since we stayed at a resort, in the South of India, we were seduced to use the

India

Spa at the Leela for a massage and a warming sauna. After exploring the Goa area, this is a very welcome end to the day.

A special place to stay is the Leela Goa in Goa. For more information and bookings, go to www.theleela.com For more information on India, visit the website www.incredibleindia.org

83

Kovalam Spiritual tranquility

Kerala, India’s southernmost state, is affectionately known as God’s own country because of its many idyllic landscapes. We stayed on the coast in Kovalam, in a tranquil and relaxing beach resort, the Leela Kempinski Kovalam. Situated on the edge of a cliff overlooking the Arabian Sea, the resort is the perfect place to unwind after travelling through India.

There is an old castle on the premises and all kinds of places to be discovered, like the fishing village to the north and the lighthouse beach to the south.

Ayurveda, a holistic treatment that brings together spirit, body and cosmos, originates in Kerala and we of course couldn’t pass up the opportunity of an Ayurvedic massage at the Leela. Using sandalwood oil and a special technique of head massage, the masseuse worked with relaxing music in the background. It was quite an experience: I don’t think I’ve ever had so much oil on my head!

Our experiences in Kovalam were very diverse: we participated in early morning yoga sessions and had relaxing Ayurvedic massages at the Leela, but we also visited nearby fishing villages where the strong smell of fish hung in the air. Here we also spoke to the brave fishermen who were working on their nets on the quay. Every night, they venture out in their rickety ships to bring in the day’s catch - as long as the waves are not too high of course.

Back at the Leela resort we chanced upon a conference of 600 Indian human resource managers. It was a remarkable event, with impressive keynote speakers, including Sri Sri Raveshankar, a famous spiritual leader, and Mr. Murthy, the founder and chairman of Infosys, one of India’s biggest and fastest growing IT companies. They both inspired the audience, in their own particular way.

It was very interesting for us to see how business and spirituality go together in India. It’s something people in other parts of the world can learn

India

a lot from.

A special place to stay is the Leela Kempinski Kovalam Beach Kerala in Kovalam. For more information and bookings, go to www.theleela.com For more information on India, visit the website www.incredibleindia.org You can book your flight to Kovalam through SriLankan Airlines. For more information and tickets, visit the website www.srilankan.aero 85

India

Mumbai City of dreams

Mumbai – formerly known as Bombay – is a dazzling buzzing city of nearly 20 million where bright red double decker buses meet Bollywood cinema and luxurious designer shops stand alongside the tumult of the Asian bazaars. We stayed at the Leela Kempinski Mumbai where we spent our first evening lounging like lizards in the Six Degrees bar, enjoying the evening warmth of the city.

Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, locally known as Victoria Terminus, is the heart of Mumbai; the city’s life line and the place here hundreds of thousands of workers enter the city every day. The exuberant Gothic building looks more like a palace with sumptuous carvings of peacocks, monkeys and lions dotted among the columns, spires and domes.

Mumbai is divided into two sections, north and south. The cosmopolitan southern district is where travellers used to arrive by ship, often after a long sea journey. Landmarks like the legendary Taj Mahal Hotel that has hosted princes and maharajas for over a century and the Gateway of India, a yellow basalt triumphal arch built after the visit of King George V in 1911, lie in this part of the city. This is also where we went shopping in the Colaba district and stocked up on quality Bollywood movies. Then we visited a tailor to have a jacket fitted we reckon this really is a must-have fashion item: a made-to-measure Indian jacket!

Our short Mumbai experience wouldn’t have been complete without a visit to Mani Bhavan, the house where Mahatma Gandhi stayed whenever he came to town. The small house is inspiring, filled with documents, letters and photos – we felt as though the great leader’s spirit still dwelt there.

Our driver Moses, from the Leela Kempinski Mumbai then took us to North Mumbai, a completely different world. We visited Borivali National Park which houses the Kanheri Caves, a network of more than 100 caves carved out of the rock with exquisite Buddhas, Shivas, a school, prayer rooms - literally a whole city carved out of stone!

Monkeys played around and shouted at us, making silly poses and hoping to be caught on camera. The nearby waterfall was amazing. It was a great meditative experience to sit under the rushing water and let it crash down onto our heads and shoulders.

Next we went to Juhu Beach, a trendy upcoming seaside resort where locals come to enjoy their weekends. Here we had an unforgettable lunch of mouth-watering crab, king prawns and wonderful curry – all so fresh and tasty that it could only have been made in India.

After another day wandering through the city, visiting a lot of beautiful

India

places and being absorbed in the city’s daily life, we enjoyed the spa at the Leela which gave us enough new energy to go for dinner at the Jamavar, an authentic Indian restaurant.

A special place to stay is the Leela Kempinski Mumbai in Mumbai. For more information and bookings, go to www.theleela.com For more information on India, visit the website www.incredibleindia.org 89

Ireland Home away from home October, a couple of years ago: it’s a smooth landing, despite the strong wind and driving rain. As soon as I step off the plane at Shannon Airport I feel the drops on my face, but the scent of the Irish air with its unmistakable smell of peat fires makes me smile.

“I’m home again,” I think. Ireland, my second home…

While my sister returned from her sun-drenched horse-riding vacation in Wexford (southeast Ireland) more tanned than if she had gone to Spain, I am standing here in the pouring rain. And yet, I feel just as happy. I still have a two-hour drive ahead of me to reach my final destination in the far west of Connemarra, where I will spend the weekend at the Renvyle House Hotel.

I used to stay here with my parents and always loved settling down by the peat fire with an orange juice – now I am looking forward to doing the same, but with a good whisky instead. I wonder whether Heather, the waitress with a bad back, still works at the hotel. And Tony, who used to organise the kid’s activities in summer.

As I drive through the beautiful landscape, time, and all sorts of weather, fly by. Blue sky alternates with rain showers, which creates a broad pallet of green tones on the rugged Connemarra hills. I have carefully planned my little weekend getaway: I want to drop by the Rudy family in Westport to say hi, take a walk on the beach on the way (I hope there’s a stiff breeze) and Photography - Henk O.G. van der Kooi & Ireland tourism board

stop at Ballinahinch Castle to have a tasty Smoked Salmon platter with that mouthwatering homemade soda bread for lunch. Maybe I will also have time to go fly-fishing for pike and trout with Michael Canney at Lough Corrib. In any case I will treat myself to fresh lobster which I will fetch at the French lobster fisher in Cleggan as my dad used to. Then I will have it prepared by the chef at Renvyle House… Yum! As I drive up to the hotel, a small red Ford Fiesta is coming towards me.

The rusty wire aerial strikes me, as does the driver’s face: it’s Tony! He also recognises me and turns down his window. He tells me Heather still works at the hotel and is now married… to him! It’s obviously been way too long

Ireland

since I last came home.

Henk O.G. van der Kooi You can book a trip to Ireland through BBI Travel. For more information, go to www.bbi-travel.nl

91

Jamaica Once you go, you know We started our journey through Jamaica with a great lunch at the Little Ochi near Alligator Pond on the South Coast. We decided to head off the beaten track to really experience the country, its people and their habits.

The fishermen at Alligator Pond set out early in the morning to catch superb lobster, crab and delicious fish.

By the time the fishermen come back with the catch of the day, the cook is ready and waiting to prepare some authentic

Jamaican

Jerk

lobster or escovitched fish delicious!

Jamaica is famous for its rivers and waterfalls and YS Falls was one of the places we knew we couldn’t miss out on. Swinging into the

Jamaica

cascading waters Tarzanand-Jane

style,

jumping

from terrace to terrace, letting the torrents crash down on our bodies like a full-body massage‌ it felt like we had stepped straight into a picture book!

93

Jamaica flavours The Black River, which flows into the sea at the South Coast, is the House of Crocodiles, with hundreds of birds and beautiful mangroves at “Mangrove Avenue”. One of the locals, Crazy, waits for night to fall so he can go hunting.

In Port Antonio, we stayed at a lovely hotel, Mocking Bird Hill, where we enjoyed a

great

breakfast

while

having marvellous views over the Mountains and the Caribbean Sea.

Besides Jerk, Jamaica also has great fruit, which is best bought at the roadside stalls.

Medicinal rums are also available here, but if you want to stick to fruit, that’s fine too. A couple of words of the local lingo Patois are handy when you are travelling around – it goes a long way and it’s easy to learn.

The Rio Grande that flows into the Caribbean Sea on the North Coast is famous for its bamboo-rafting adventures. The rafts men are very ex­perienced, and as you float down the swirling Rio Grande, you get the chance to sit back, relax and enjoy a beautiful part of Jamaica from another angle.

A trip to Jamaica is not complete without a visit to the Appleton rum estate, the

Jamaica

largest rum company on the island, which has been there for 250 years. We did some sampling and blending and

For more information on Jamaica tourism, visit the website

wandered around the plant

www.visitjamaica.com or www.ontdekjamaica.nl

and its garden. One striking

A great place to stay in Port Antonio is Mocking Bird Hill.

fact is that they recycle

For more information, visit the website www.hotelmockingbirdhill.com

almost everything they use in the production process!

95

Mali Cultural kaleidoscope

With its diverse population groups, its unique mud architecture, the legendary town of the Timbuktu and the mystical Dogon Valley, Mali is one of Africa’s most fascinating countries.

The town of Mopti was founded by the Bozo fishing tribe, it grew to be an important port on the Niger Delta during the French colonial period.

At the heart of the old city lies the Great Mosque, a beautiful structure built in traditional style with beams jutting out of the mud walls. Every year after the rainy season, there is a special festival to cover the mosque in a new layer of mud, a momentous event, to which hundreds of locals contribute.

The market is housed in a two-storey building but also spills out into the street. Everything is on sale here, and it struck us that all the salespeople were women. Wrapped in colourful robes, they did their very best to draw us to their stalls, which we couldn’t resist.

Wandering further into the old city, we passed beautiful mud brick houses, often several storeys high. A glimpse into the entrance hall revealed the owner’s trade: the smith, the tailor and the potter all had their workshops at home and it was fascinating to watch them exercise their centuries-old craft.

Leaving the old city behind us, we headed for the new city and the harbour.

Mopti lies at a busy trade crossing where the Bani and Niger rivers come together, and the port forms an important north-south trade link. There were large wooden pinnaces and small pirogues, laden with people and goods. The quay was teeming with people buying, selling and bargaining. The Touaregs from the north sold large salt slabs, the Peul displayed colourful fabrics and woven blankets, while the Bozo sold smoked fish.

We had a drink at Bar Bozo with a view of the river and the busy port.

Fishermen were throwing out their nets from the pirogues, sheep were being washed in the river before the ritual slaughter and in the shipyard men were busily hammering away.

Mopti is a wonderful place where you can really get a taste of Africa. As dusk set in, we walked along the river where several boatswains offered to take us for a ride. The sun slowly dropped below the horizon as the small boats slowly moved over the orange water.

Anton Moeskops works as a travel guide for Koning Aap.

97

Photography - Anton Moeskops

Mali

Anton Moeskops

Gozo Hidden treasures

The island of Gozo is one of Europe’s best-kept secrets. Malta’s little sister is just as beautiful but a lot quieter than its larger sibling, making it the ideal place to unwind and discover a different way of life, a world in which clocks don’t rule daily life and days flow past gently.

Part of the Maltese archipelago, the small island of Gozo and its 30,000 inhabitants has a rich history – everywhere there are traces of the different cultures that left their mark on the island over the centuries: Romans, Arabs, Vikings, Greeks, the French and finally the English.

I was fascinated by the island’s rich past and the many sights that bear testimony to it, starting with the Neolithic Ggantija temples which are believed to be the world’s oldest religious structures – older even than Egypt’s pyramids. Gozo is also known as the Isle of Calypso. Local legend says that it was here that Homer’s hero Odysseus was detained by the beautiful nymph Calypso for seven years. I visited Calypso’s Cave high up in the coastal mountains and while there is little to see inside, the views out over the red sand of Ramla beach and the sea beyond are breathtaking.

Besides history, Gozo also boasts beautiful scenery. I rented a bike and discovered a varied landscape of green fields, white saltpans, dazzling clear blue waters, small creeks, red beaches and steep cliffs that drop vertically into the sea. Gozo is also a divers’ paradise with a wonderful marine life, caves, rock formations and numerous ship wrecks waiting to be explored.

The island’s true essence, however, lies in the small villages. Until today, the market square and the church are at the centre of village life, especially in the summer months when every village celebrates its patron saint’s name day.

The party is open to all: the big band leads the procession, followed by the village strongmen who carry the statue of the patron saint. In the evening the whole village gathers around long tables set out in the main square for a communal meal, followed by splendid firework displays that light up the surrounding hillside.

The contrast of the rugged rocks and picturesque beaches, the exuberant village festivals and the silence of the underwater life is what makes a holiday

Malta

to Gozo an unforgettable experience.

Eliza You can book a trip to Malta through Eliza was here. For more information, go to www.elizawashere.nl For more information on Malta tourism visit the website www.visitmalta.com

99

Mauritius Daddy, when will we go again...?

For a kid of eight, Philip has already seen quite a bit of the world, but Mauritius definitely left a lasting impression. The tropical paradise in the Indian Ocean is his favourite holiday destination, not only because of the great beaches and wonderful fish he has seen there, but also because that is where he can spend quality time with Daddy.“Will we go snorkelling together again?” he asks, and talks excitedly about seeing the little clown fish from Finding Nemo again. “And will we go and watch the dolphins again?”

Though nestled up alongside Africa, Mauritius is a melting pot of Chinese, Indian, British and French influences. This diversity is represented in the island’s food, with “cari” (curry), chow mien and spicy Creole dishes all on the menu. We always love indulging in the super-fresh seafood dishes on offer in Photography - Marc Veraart

the restaurants – oysters, crab and all sorts of delicious fish eaten to a backdrop of golden sunsets and deserted beaches…

For Philip’s mum, Mauritius is all about relaxing on the beach with a brightly coloured cocktail in her hand. While she enjoys exploring the bustling markets with their abundance of fresh fruit, vegetables and fish, there is nothing like unwinding in the shade of a parasole, rubbing one’s feet in the white sand and dreamily staring out over the bright azure sea.

Secretly I do hope to find time for a trip to Philip’s dream island. In Mauritius, we always know we can expect big smiles, sincere and friendly people and genuine hospitality. I am already looking forward to a day of Big Game Fishing with the whole family – last time Marianne caught a 16-kilo fish – some snorkelling with the little one, or maybe a dive with Marianne.

Mauritius’ marine life is stunning and never ceases to amaze us. Descending into this silent world with its multi-coloured fish, sea turtles and magnificent coral beds is something we can never get enough of.

Or maybe we should all wait until next year and get married there? It’s certainly hard to think of a more idyllic setting and Philip is bound to be thrilled at the prospect of mummy and daddy tying the knot on his favourite

Mauritius

island.

Henk O.G. van der Kooi You can book a trip to Mauritius through BBI Travel. For more information, go to www.bbi-travel.nl You can book your flight to Mauritius through Air Mauritius.

For more information and tickets, visit the website www.airmauritius.com

101

Mexico Colourful Mayan culture

Situated in a lush valley 2,100 metres above sea-level, we instantly fell in love with the cobbled lanes, colourful buildings and red-tiled roofs of San Cristóbal de las Casas in southern Mexico. The city also serves as a market town for the surrounding villages, populated by the country’s indigenous inhabitants. Wandering around the streets and resting in its plazas and cafes (sipping on the delicious locally grown coffee), we came across many villagers in their colourful traditional dress.

Our visit to San Cristóbal also happened to coincide with Mexico’s most celebrated day – the festival of their patron saint La Virgen de Guadalupe.

The city was packed with people from the surrounding villages and Spanish blurred in with any number of indigenous languages. Mexican cowboys in bright shirts and Stetson hats rubbed shoulders with Indian women in their village dress, local students in jeans and trainers and tourists lugging digital cameras. In the Plaza 31 de Marzo, church bands played for the crowds as people flocked into the city’s grand bright-yellow cathedral to pay their respects. What a day!

great cities of the Maya civilisation. At the height of their empire, from the 3rd to the 10th century, the Maya ruled over a string of villages and cities stretching from southern Mexico through Guatemala and Belize and down to western Honduras and El Salvador. The sprawling Chichèn Itzá was, for a time, the most important city in their empire. Grand and austere, you feel rather small walking around the stepped pyramids and other temples. It was the ball court, however, that caught our attention – look out for the carving of a player being decapitated and seven streams of blood spurting out of his neck; six morphing into snakes and the middle becoming a vine. Not your average ruin.

But it was at the less famous ruins of Palenque where we were truly aweinspired. Set in a suffocating jungle, we arrived early morning to see the mist evaporate from around the ancient buildings. Howler monkeys and tropical cicada insects provided a perfect soundtrack to the experience. The architectural style and stone carvings of the Maya reached new heights of refinement at this site, which is laid out with all the delicacy of a Japanese garden. Smaller than most other sites, Palenque oozes peace and tranquillity.

Mexico

A perfect place to sit and contemplate this amazing world of ours.

Anton Moeskops Anton Moeskops works as a travel guide for Shoestring.

103

Photography - Anton Moeskops and Mexican Ministry of Tourism

From San Cristóbal we headed down into the steamy jungle to seek out the

Mongolia A Journey to the End of the World A trip to Mongolia, a land of nomadic horsemen and age-old traditions, is as much a journey back in time as an exploration.

Travelling through this vast and empty country, it is hard to imagine that this was once upon a time an empire that stretched from Hungary to the South China Sea over which the powerful Genghis Khan reigned.

After two days in the capital Ulan Bator, we set out for the Terelj National Park. Located at high altitude, the scenery here is absolutely stunning and the air is cool. There are also extraordinary rock formations that take on life-like shapes like “Turtle Rock” and “Man Reading a Book”. To get there, we travelled part of the way by oxcart, the traditional Mongolian mode of transport.

In the far distance we spotted the silhouette of a lone rider. Dressed in a traditional costume, he used vigorous gestures to gather his flock of sheep and drive them on. His horse was small but strong, as was he.

For Mongolian nomads, life revolves around their most precious possession, their livestock. They live to the rhythm of the seasons, a life that is far removed from the hustle and bustle of our daily lives in the West.

We spent our first night in a traditional ger tent in the middle of this beautiful landscape. It was fascinating to learn about the customs and rituals that rule life in such a tent: men should always enter and walk to the right to receive protection from the God of the Air, while women walk to the left to receive the favours of the Sun God. We also learnt that we should sleep with our feet towards the door and not show our wrists.

At night, the temperature dropped to around zero degrees, but it did not affect us: the ger was made of felt and when it got really cold, a woman came in to light a fire for us. In a matter of minutes, the tent was warmed by the glow of burning wood filling the air.

We stepped outside into the cold night air. We looked up to the starlit sky and listened to the silence. The only sounds came from the birds of prey high

Mongolia

above and from the yaks and cow grazing nearby.

Linda van Schijndel You can book a trip to Mongolia through Tiara Tours International. For more information, go to www.tiaratours.nl You can book your flight to Mongolia through Miat. For more information and tickets, visit the website www.miat.com

105

Marrakech Storytellers and SnakeCharmers Marrakech, “the pink capital of the South”, is Morocco’s largest and most famous imperial city. Located at the foot of the High Atlas Mountains, the city is surrounded by many gardens and thousands of palm trees.

Later in the evening the performers arrive. Musicians dressed in colourful outfits sing and dance with tambourines, drums, guitars and bells as crowds gather around to watch. There are also actors telling stories and enacting scenes to their spellbound audiences; performers doing tricks with monkeys and dogs; veiled women dressed in black who sit on low stools and tell

Our first impression upon arrival in Marrakech was one of vibrant and colour-

fortunes, reading palms or tarot cards. Further along is the domain of the

ful chaos. Strolling through the little streets, all our senses were awakened:

medicine men and apothecaries, men who sit cross-legged amidst herbs,

smells wafted towards us, carrying hints of grilled meats and spices; over the

spices and potions and claim to cure any ailment.

chanting, laughing and shouting; everywhere we looked there was some-

The souqs, the local market quarter, are a labyrinth of narrow alleys and lanes

thing fascinating to watch: performers coaxing a monkey along on a tricycle,

where leatherworkers, coppersmiths and woodworkers have tiny shops in

dancers in colourful clothing moving to the rhythm of the drums, spinning

which they methodically ply their crafts. In contrast, the old city, the “medina”,

the tassel on their fez hats to the beat of the cymbals.

is full of activity. Amid all the hustle and bustle stand many old townhouses, or “riads”, which are oases of serenity and calm among the frenetic activity of

Wandering around the Djemaa el Fna Square is like stepping into a Breughel

the Pink Capital.

painting. Here you can find everything to satisfy your desires. A dense wall of oranges surrounds the square; they are heaped up on carts where vendors squeeze and pour all day for anyone who is thirsty. Next to the orange carts are the dried fruit vendors, poking their heads out between the piles of dates, figs and nuts. In the centre of the square, dozens of restaurant stalls are set up each evening. Large clouds of smoke billow from them, filling the square with

A special place to stay in Marrakech is the Club Med La Palmeraie or

the smell of grilled meats, spices and vegetables.

La Medina. For more information, visit the website www.clubmed.com

Morocco

Photography - Jan Willem van Riel

noise of the traffic we heard cymbals, drums and tympani as well as voices

107

Myanmar The Golden Country

Myanmar’s capital Yangon, also known as the Garden City, was the starting point of our journey. The lively and bustling city has a very relaxed atmosphere with colourful fruit and vegetable markets and dozens of beautiful shrines and pagodas, including the country’s largest reclining Buddha.

Our next stop was Mandalay, the country’s second largest city with a distinctly Indian feel to it. It is also the site of several important Buddhist shrines, including the very sacred Shedanaw Monastery. The richly decorated palace is home to hundreds of colourfully dressed monks, who silently go about their rituals.

As we grew more familiar with Myanmar and its history, we couldn’t help notice the importance of Buddhism in every aspect of life: everywhere you go, there are Buddhist shrines and temples and locals attach great importance to their faith and to the legends surrounding their shrines.

The ancient city of Bagan is also steeped in an atmosphere of sanctity, with more than 3,000 temples, pagodas, libraries and stupas built on just 42 square kilometres. One of the highlights of our trip was definitely the early morning hot air balloon flight over the town: the temples and shrines were shrouded in mist that gently lifted as the sun rose over the city.

The ensuing drive to the small rural town of Pindaya took us through a hilly landscape of green and yellow fields. The nearby grottoes harbour an enchanting shrine, filled with more than 8,000 statues of the Buddha which were donated over the centuries by kings and pilgrims. At the entrance of the grotto, a mural depicts the story of a prince fighting a giant spider. The legend says that he was struggling with the animal to free seven beautiful princesses who were trapped in the cave.

At the nearby Sinkhaung monastery we met an old monk who has been living here for the last 40 years. A former pilot who served in WWII, he spoke perfect English and showed us around the treasures and Buddha statues on exhibit.

The city of Kalaw was a popular hill station in British colonial times and today many of the grand villas and the Catholic church still remind one of those days. From here, we headed by train to Heho and the breathtaking Inle Lake situated at 1,000 metres. The boat trip over the lake took us past floating gardens, small creeks, bridges and lake villages, giving us a glimpse of the lives

Myanmar

of people in this beautiful country.

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Photography - Marc Veraart

Astrid van Dijk You can book a trip to Myanmar through Renaissance Reizen. For more information, go to www.renaissancereizen.nl

Namibia Africa’s Grand Canyon

Fish River Canyon is a spectacular river gorge in the south of Namibia, the largest canyon in the world after the Grand Canyon.

The area’s first inhabitants ascribed the creation of the spectacular winding valley to supernatural forces.

According to a San legend, the canyon was shaped by the snake Kouteig Kooru when he fled from desert hunters, thus leaving this deep gouge in the landscape. In fact, the cause of the deep gorge lies at the bottom of the valley: Fish River, which took hundreds of thousands of years to carve out this canyon over a distance of 160 km and with a width of up to 27 kilometres.

Today, Fish River only really flows in springtime – in summer and winter it dwindles to a small stream that later turns into shallow pools.

The canyon appears quite suddenly in the landscape and as soon as I reach the canyon’s edge I have plunging views down to the valley floor. Right at the bottom I can see the deep blue river meandering between the red rocks, some of which are more than two million years old. It is an awe-inspiring thought…

While it is forbidden to descend to the bottom of the canyon, there are many hikes in the surrounding area so I head off into the scorching rock desert for a long hike. The landscape is overwhelming, bare plains with large dark boulders strewn across them. In the distance I spot a number of baboons and also some ibexes. I also stumble upon a snake - suddenly it is in front of me, about half a metre long, it writhes in sand and hisses at me. I take a few pictures of it and marvel at its many colours – later my guide tells me this is one of the most dangerous snakes in the region, the puff-adder whose venom is deadly… Clearly, that was a close escape!

In the afternoon, I head for the Ai-Ais hot-spring oasis at the canyon’s southern end to relax. The thermal water that is said to soothe rheumatic pains is piped into a small spa complex where I spend the afternoon lounging about in the swimming pools and Jacuzzis. “Ai-Ais” means “burning water” in Nama language, and I certainly find out why: the water that gushes

Photography - Anton Moeskops and South African Tourism

Namibia

forth from great water jets is a scalding 60ºC!

Anton Moeskops Anton Moeskops works as a travel guide for Koning Aap.

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New Zealand Green and Unseen

It’s 5 o’clock in the morning. Early, yes, but the smell of freshly brewed coffee cuts through the chilly sea air, dragging us out of bed. There’s mist sitting in the valley, but in the distance the top of the mountains are just starting to catch the sun. A magpie is already out of bed and its call echoes off the trees. It’s going to be another fine day.

With a coffee in hand, brought to the boil over an old wood stove, we wander down to the beach. The waves are breaking on the black sand and the salty mist is thicker here. Driftwood is everywhere but no footprints mark the beach. The lagoon reflects the soft yellow light of dawn and the dark trees of night. We draw a deep breath of salty air and take a sip of our coffee.

We’re staying with John and Jacqui, long-time locals of Mahitahi beach, south of the Glaciers on the West Coast of New Zealand. It’s a quiet place, undisturbed by the years, between the wild Tasman Sea and forest-covered mountains. New Zealand is rightly famous for her beautiful and pristine nature. Yet experiencing it with the locals and learning about Maori folklore adds new dimensions to the journey. John, our host, has lived here all his life and knows this place like the back of his hand.

Finding our way through the driftwood, we head for the lagoon to the north of the beach. We will catch our own breakfast – fresh salmon and whitebait – to make fritters. As we walk, John starts talking about Maui, the Maori demi-god that fished the North Island of New Zealand out of the sea. monsters) on his way to land. John tells us how the Maori also believe Maui and his brothers caught the sun and slowed it down because it moved too fast across the sky.

The sun is rising high now and it casts its golden cloak across the mountains, the trees and the lagoon. The air is becoming warm. The lagoon is peaceful in the morning sun. The fresh water from the river easing itself slowly towards the sea. The toitois begin to waft gently in the first of the wind. The mist is on the move. Birds are busy down by the sea edge finding their breakfast. A fantail flits and darts amongst the flax and comes up close – its not scared of us at all.

The mist clears and there it is. Aoraki (or Mt Cook), all 3750 metres soaring into the beautiful blue sky. Just like in the legends, he’s the biggest of the four brothers living in Ka Tiritiri o te Moana (New Zealand’s Southern Alps).

We sit down next to John and enjoy the silence. Before long we’ll be frying up

New Zealand

fresh salmon and for now we’ve got all the time in the world.

Andrew Morten You can book a trip to New Zealand through TravelEssence. For more information, go to www.travelessence.nl

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Photography - Otto Böhr and Andrew Morten

Maui first landed in New Zealand at Mahitahi and fought two Taniwha (or

The Seychelles Unique by a thousand miles If you’re looking for those legendary tropical islands with deserted bays and soft white sand beaches, luxuriant green palm trees and colourful coral reefs in transparent waters, then this is your destination: heavenly dots in the Indian Ocean, a handful of islands made of basalt and granite that together form the Seychelles.

Here you won’t find any mass tourism, stress or crowded beaches.

Instead there is peace and quiet, wide-open spaces, stunning landscapes and a pleasant climate.

Composed of 115 islands in the Indian Ocean, the Seychelles lie northeast of Madagascar, 1600 kilometres from the coast of Africa. It is this remoteness that has afforded the archipelago the description “unique by a thousand miles”. The three central islands, Mahé, Praslin en La Digue are granite atolls, while the outer islands are composed of coral. We did some island-hopping during our time there and found that every island has its own atmosphere, sights and attractions.

Upon arrival, we spent several days in the capital Victoria. With a population of 25,000, it is one of the smallest capitals in the world, but it has some great restaurants. The Seychellian cuisine is said to be the tastiest in the region and it certainly lives up to its reputation: not only are there numerous fish specialities, like shark and squid, but also great combinations of the fresh herbs and vegetables. We had some fun evenings out in Victoria – eating and partying – before heading on to more remote parts. On the secluded islands of St. Anne and Denis, we explored the beautiful beaches and lazed around in the shade of the palm trees. From Desroches Island we went snorkelling and had some amazing dives along one of the most beautiful reefs in the Seychelles.

The archipelago is also renowned for deep sea fishing and sailing, and we made a short boat trip circling some of the smaller islands and seeking out large tuna fish. Our journey ended back on main island of Mahé, with its lush green mountains and tropical vegeation.

The Seychelles have something for everyone – whether you seek relaxation,

The Seychelles

adventure, great cuisine or wild nature.

Patricia van Baal You can book a trip to the Seychelles through Odysseus. For more information, go to www.odysseus.com You can book your flight to the Seychelles through Air Seychelles. For more information and tickets visit the website www.airseychelles.net

South Africa Get a taste for the cape

Affectionately known as the Mother City, Cape Town lies in a splendid setting between the flat-topped Table Mountain and the sandy beaches of the Atlantic coast. This buzzing, multicultural city is famed for its hospitality and its lively cultural scene, with year-round concerts, exhibitions and plays.

As soon as I arrived, I headed for the Table Mountain cable car that whisked me up to the summit from where there were amazing views of the city and the ocean beyond. Rising a sheer 1,073 metres from the coastal plain, the mountain dominates almost every view of the city, its sharp slopes and level top making it one of the world’s best-known city backdrops. For centuries it was the first sight of Cape Town afforded to seafarers, its looming presence visible for hundreds of kilometres. Later I also discovered that there are some spectacular hikes on the mountain, one of them leading down the southern slopes through the stunning Kirstenbosch botanical gardens.

For me, one of the most memorable sights in Cape Town was Robben Island, a former prison whose most famous inmate was Nelson Mandela. The twoand-a-half hour tour of the prison was very intense; our guide was a former inmate himself and told us of his experiences during his 10-year stay and how he had learned to cope with the tough prison life.

Photography - South African Tourism

For a change of scenery and mood I headed to Bo-Kaap, Cape Town’s Muslim area with its brightly coloured Georgian houses and cobblestone roads.

Bo-Kaap residents are descendants of 17th century slaves and many of them originally came from India, Madagascar and West Africa. The many Muslim shrines and mosques give the whole area quite a different feel and I sometimes felt that I was in a different country.

Located in the midst of Cape Town’s harbour, the V&A Waterfront is a new development packed with great shops, bars and restaurants. I had planned to just wander around and soak up the atmosphere here, but couldn’t resist the temptation of losing myself in some of the shops where I bought great gifts to take home.

After all the sightseeing and shopping, I went to Clifton Beach to soak up some rays. Located in a series of sheltered coves with pristine white sand, this is one of the most beautiful beaches I have ever been to. I was also told that it is the

South Africa

coolest beach in town, made for people-watching!

Bianca de Bruin You can book a trip to South Africa through NBBS Reizen. For more information, go to www.nbbs.nl

South Africa Lion-watching in style South Africa

Photography - South African Tourism

There are countless opportunities to observe wildlife in South Africa, but visiting a private wildlife reserve is unique. Spotting the big five in luxury!

From Hazyview I drive to Exeter River Lodge in the famous Sabi Sands area of the Great Kruger National Park. Already at the gate you notice the difference; there are no tarmac roads and park rangers are not just restricted to the official tracks like in national parks – they can go anywhere. After registration I follow the signs to the lodge where I will be staying for the next few nights. I am in high spirits and full of expectation. I drive slowly along the bumpy dirt track through the mopane brush, scanning the horizon for the first glimpse of wildlife.

Suddenly I spot a small antelope dashing off into bush. Then I emerge on a grassy plain where herds of zebra and giraffe are walking by in the distance.

Driving on I come to a small lake where a lazy hippo is splashing about in the shallows. Finally I arrive at the lodge, where I am welcomed in style by my ranger who shows me to a spacious room. I have two showers – indoor and outdoor – and even a plunge pool!

After a delicious lunch under a shady tree and surrounded by frolicking monkeys, we head off for our first game drive. We drive through the bush and the ranger takes me to the place where he saw a pride of lions the same morning. They are still there, surrounded by their cubs! The vigilant mother instantly jumps up as she sees our car approaching, fixing us with her cold yellow gaze – a spine-chilling experience.

Back at the lodge I prepare myself for dinner. As there are no fences in the park, it is forbidden to walk around on one’s own and my ranger comes to pick me up. He stays with our group and tells us all about his adventures in the bush and the amazing animals he encounters in his work. I am tired from the many impressions of the day and soon my ranger accompanies me to my room. As we get to the door, it suddenly slips out: “It’s almost like a date!”

I exclaim and immediately turn bright red. He just smiles though and watches me go, before heading off into the darkness that is filled with the mysterious

South Africa

sounds of the animal world.

Tessa de la Rive Box You can book a trip to South Africa through African Holidays. For more information, go to www.africanholidays.nl

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Andalucia Passion for life Is it the landscape, the food, the historical sites, the people? What makes Andalucia feel like a tender embrace?

The mountains – much greener than one would expect – are dotted with white villages that are haphazardly scattered over the rolling landscape.

Visiting these picturesque towns with their historic centres was like journeying back in time and I felt people here still go about their daily life as they have done for centuries.

I soon got a taste for the Andalucian lifestyle – people are generous and warm, but also proud of their country and wonderfully hospitable. The evenings are the best. That’s when the towns and villages come alive and people go down into the streets to enjoy, food, drink, music and dancing in the many cafes and restaurants. Andalucian cuisine is exquisite, plain and yet wonderfully tasty, with only locally produced, fresh ingredients. Accompanied by a glass of local wine, it is incomparable.

During my trip I visited the famous cities of Granada, Cordoba and Sevilla – each with its own character and a wealth of historic sights.

In Granada, I visited the Alhambra, a splendid Moorish palace perched on a hill overlooking the city. With its many courtyards and sumptuously designed gardens, it is a testimony to the refinement of Moorish culture.

Later, I wandered through the old city and the Albaicin district with its narrow alleys and countless little shops, bars and restaurants – there was a distinct Arab atmosphere here and I often felt as though I was in North Africa.

Cordoba was once a city where Jews, Christians and Muslims lived together.

Today, the town still exudes this atmosphere of solidarity, but at the same time I could see how the different communities had left their mark on the city when they were in power. The Mezquita is an especially impressive building, a former mosque that was transformed into a church after the Reconquista in the 16th century. Today it remains a monument to Andalucia’s cultural diversity.

Sevilla has a rich Moorish history as well and flourished in the 16th century after the discovery of the Americas when it became the most important port between Europe and the Americas. I strolled through the Triana and Santa Cruz districts and sampled many of their trendy bars until the early hours.

I ended my vacation on the coast, sitting on the beach, soaking up the sun and realising that it is Andalucia’s cordial warmth that makes it such an

Spain

engaging place.

Roelant Gerrits You can book a trip to Spain through Mundicolor. For more information, go to www.mundicolor.nl

Sri Lanka The pearl of the Indian Ocean The moment I settled into the colonial Galle Face Hotel in the Sri Lankan capital Colombo, everything felt good. The weather was beautiful and the people were extremely friendly – it was a great beginning to my trip through this small country with a great history. My journey started with a visit to the idyllic fishing village of Negombo where local fishermen had prepared a barbecue on the beach in an atmospheric setting with torchlight and live music.

The next day I headed to the elephant orphanage in Pinnawela, where I spent hours watching the young animals wandering around the estate, playing, eating and bathing in the nearby river. I then visited the rock temples of Dambulla and Sigirya Rock with the fortress of King Kasyapa and the famous frescoes of the Cloud Girls. After a regal dinner of rice and curries and a good night’s sleep in yet another luxurious colonial hotel, I hopped on a bike the next morning to tour the ancient royal city of Polonnaruwa with its many temples and rock-carved Buddha statues. At the end of the afternoon, I joined a sunset jeep safari along the shores of the Minneriya Lake that is home to many wild elephants.

I had timed my visit to Sri Lanka to coincide with the Buddhist Esala Perahera festival that is held every year in Kandy. During the festival a copy of the Tooth of Buddha – which is usually preserved in a temple in Kandy – is carried around town on the back of a lavishly decorated elephant. Every night for 10 nights, the holy animal is accompanied by a dazzling procession of dancers, acrobats, torchbearers and musicians. The festival left a deep impression on me: it was not only the scale and grandeur of the event, but also seeing the thousands of believers who flooded to the festival that made it a truly spiritual experience.

Still awed by the exuberance of the festival, I continued my journey along colonial cities, fascinating temples, vast tea plantations and atmospheric hotels. My journey ended in a villa in Tangalle on Sri Lanka’s south coast, on one of the most beautiful beaches I have ever seen.

As I lazed about on the beach, I reflected that Sri Lanka’s beauty lies not just in its blue seas and golden beaches, its jungles and its mountain peaks, but also in its nostalgic atmosphere: the ancient Buddhist temples, untouched fortresses and beautifully faded colonial buildings give the country a unique

Maarten de Ruiter Photography - Anton Moeskops

Sri Lanka

feel.

Maarten de Ruiter is CEO from FOX Vakanties.

You can book your flight to Sri Lanka through SriLankan Airlines.

For more information and tickets, visit the website www.srilankan.aero

Suriname Wild nature and Majestic Architecture With its unique cultural mix, beautiful landscapes, friendly people and pleasant climate, Suriname is an increasingly popular South American holiday destination. From adventurous explorations of the rainforest, to wandering through the old city of the capital Paramaribo and great cocktails on the pier at Torarica, Suriname really has something for everyone!

Our holiday started with a trip by “korjaal”, the traditional dug-out canoe.

We sat back and floated downstream, enjoying the silence of nature and the peaceful view of the blue mountains in the distance. We came past impressive rapids or “sulas” and saw plenty of wildlife: caymans and otters in the water and an endless array of colourful birds in the trees. We also learnt that the high kankantris – wild silk-cotton trees – are sacred to the local maroons.

The overwhelming landscapes, centuries-old plantations and authentic Indian and maroon villages where we were warmly received, made our journey through the hinterland all the more special. One of the highlights was the Brownsberg Nature Reserve with its cathedral-like forests and the Princess Irene Falls northwest of the Brokopondo reservoir. Later we also visited the turtle reserve near Galibi in the northeast.

All along the way we found comfortable accomodation, like in Danpaati where we stayed at the luxurious Danpaati River Lodge in maroon territory in the middle of the jungle. In the west of the country we visted the very Dutch-sounding villages of Wageningen en Utrecht, where we were shown the highly developed rice cultivation techniques applied by locals.

Back in the capital of this former tropical part of Holland, we admired the characteristic Surinam architecture. The elegant colonnade that runs along the front of many of the 19th-century houses makes Paramaribo one of the most attractive and striking cities in the tropics. After wandering through the old city, we had a great meal at one of the local eateries where we tasted exotic dishes that combine flavours from Asian, African, Chinese, Indian and Dutch cuisine.

The customs surrounding home-cooking in Suriname are very different from those in Holland. Instead of four meatballs, they prepare ten, because they always have to have food ready for friends and relations who may

Natasha Hooper For specialised advice on travelling through Suriname, please visit the website www.surinametravel.com or www.torarica.com You can book your flight to Suriname through Martinair. For more information and tickets, visit the website www.martinair.com For more information and other travel possibilities in Suriname, please visit the website from USP marketing PR at www.usp.nl

Photography - www.surinametravel.com

Suriname

unexpectedly drop by – another sign of the typical Surinam hospitality!

Dar es Salaam Dazzling colours and sounds As East Africa’s largest city, Dar es Salaam is a melting pot of traditional tribal cultures and immigrant communities from Europe and Asia. Tourists often see it as just a place you have to pass through en route to the Zanzibar beaches or a safari, but we found it was definitely worth exploring.

Around the markets and the main transport hubs there are dozens of stalls and fast food joints where you can find an endless choice of foods: grilled fish, chicken kebabs wrapped in chapatis, fried bananas, coconut milk… One of the local delicacies is paan, a mildly narcotic dessert made with a range of ingredients including chopped nuts, sweet spices, vegetables, syrup and white lime wrapped in a hot, sweet betel leaf (mtambuu). The concoction is

We stayed at the legendary Kempinski Kilimanjaro Hotel, also known as the

chewed and sucked, but never swallowed.

Kili. All the most important meetings in Tanzanian history have been held at this hotel and big names like Nelson Mandela have stayed here before us. As

Alongside its bustling markets and lively street scenes, Dar is also known for

we wandered around the hotel’s grand spaces, we discovered a tingatinga

its excellent live music venues, so we set out to find one of the city’s twenty

painter and his sons working on a series of beautiful wall paintings. Using

or so professional dance bands. Most of them perform three of four times a

bold and bright colours, they were making a mural depicting cartoon-like

week in clubs and halls, to great crowds of singing and dancing spectators

animals and nature scenes.

– definitely a swinging way to finish our first day in Dar!

After lunch we headed west to the city centre and the district of Kariakoo.

This is the city’s most African neighbourhood and the Kariakoo market is a fascinating jumble of colours, smells and unexpected sights; a maze of shops and stalls that offer everything from exotic fruits, vegetables and fish to aromatic spices, herbs and coffee. This is the best place to meet the locals – with just a few words of Kiswahili we managed to have great conversations with the stallholders.

A special place to stay in Dar es Salaam is the Kempinski Kilimanjaro.

For more information and bookings, please visit the website

wealthy tourists through the jungles of southern Tanzania to hunt lions and

www.kempinski.com

elephants. He had some terrifying stories - as well as a huge scar from a

For more information on Tanzania tourism visit the website

crocodile bite on his arm to show for it.

www.tanzaniatouristboard.com

Tanzania

In the famous Kariakoo Social Hall, we met a professional hunter who takes

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Ngorongoro Crater Spotting the big five

We travelled to Ngorongoro from Dar es Salaam, landing at Arusha near Africa’s highest mountain, Mt Kilimanjaro. At an altitude of 5,891 metres, it towers over the surroundings; the six-day ascent of this legendary peak is an almost spiritual experience.

One of Ngorongoro’s major attractions is the Crater Highlands trek, which can be as short or long as you like. The exact distance depends on where you start and whether you’re driven part of the way. The views from the Crater Highlands into the caldera are breathtaking.

The Ngorongoro Crater Lodge is situated on the cliff side with plunging

On our way to Ngorongoro we stayed at a coffee plantation where twenty

views into the crater. The design of the huts is inspired by Masai mud-brick

small wooden huts were nestled between the coffee plants. Here we learnt

huts. The combination of antique furniture under a roof of banana leaves has

that coffee beans actually look more like red currants when they are on the

led visitors to describe the lodge as “Masai meets Versailles”. In every room

plant; the brown colour is just a result of the roasting process.

there is a personal butler. He served us delicious tea and lit a cosy fire in the room’s fireplace. Without a doubt it was the most stunning lodge we have

Situated in the north of Tanzania, Ngorongoro Crater used to be a volcano

ever seen!

as high as Mt. Kilimanjaro - until it blew itself up three million years ago. The crater then sank deep into the earth and created the world’s largest caldera with a diameter of around 20 kilometres and walls that rise to a height of 600 metres.

Looking down into the crater is like having a glimpse of what the Garden of Eden might have been like. Clouds hovered around the crater’s edge like a white fur collar and the play of light and shadow over the grassy plain below You can book a trip to the Ngorongoro Crater in Tanzania through

plains are wildebeast, zebras, flamingos and hippopotamuses. Our task was

Jambo Safari Club. For more information, go to www.jambo.nl

to spot the Big Five – elephant, rhinoceros, buffalo, leopard, lion – and we

For more information on Tanzania tourism visit the website

succeeded!

www.tanzaniatouristboard.com

Tanzania

was hypnotic. More than 30,000 animals live here and roaming through the

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Zanzibar Lazy paradise in the Indian Ocean When I first visited Zanzibar 18 years ago, few tourists knew about this island near the Tanzanian coast and no one felt the urge to visit it, for what did it have to offer?

But I was curious and wanted to check the place out. I travelled from Dar es Salaam to Zanzibar in a wobbly little barge which passengers shared with cattle, bales of merchandise and food. The crossing took more than eight hours, but eventually the small ship did make it to the port of Stone Town and I was only too happy to set foot on solid ground.

Stone Town had a single hotel at the time, a state-run affair decorated with coloured fairy lights which made it look more like a fairground attraction than a hotel. There were a few B&Bs and a tiny restaurant where a Frenchman served the most delicious fish. No souvenir shops or tourist attractions, only local shops and market stalls selling fresh fruit and vegetables and other staples.

Zanzibar’s strategic location between East Africa, Persia, Arabia and India made it an important trade centre from the 15th century onwards. First discovered by the Portuguese, the island was taken over by the Arabs in the 17th century and became a centre of the global slave trade. After the abolition of slavery in the 19th century, the island became renowned for its spices, particularly cloves, which were traded around the world.

Today, Zanzibar is still a place straight from the fairytales of One Thousand and One Nights. The archipelago consists of two larger islands, Pemba and Unguja, and several small islands scattered in the Indian Ocean.

Zanzibar has become very popular in the past few years. Many tourists visit this exotic island where hints of Arab, Asian, African and European cultures come together to form a unique atmosphere. I still love the place and go there every year to stay at the Fumba Beach Lodge, see friends and enjoy the island’s many sites and beautiful white beaches. The clear blue sea and the amazing reefs also make Zanzibar a paradise for divers.

Beach and culture lovers, divers and adventurers have found their way: the island of Zanzibar is definitely worth a visit!

Photography - Bouke van Dijk 15jr

Tanzania

Enjoy.

Angeli van de Kerkhof You can book a trip to Tanzania through Angeli Travel. For more information, go to www.angelitravel.nl A special place to stay is the Fumba lodge in Zanzibar. For more information and bookings, go to www.fumbabeachlodge.com For more information on Tanzania tourism visit the website www.tanzaniatouristboard.com

Zanzibar Exotic Spice Island

From Dar es Salaam we headed to the coast and crossed over to the archipelago of Zanzibar. We could have flown, but crossing in a traditional dhow is more authentic and as long as you’re not afraid of water it’s a great experience. Upon arrival in the capital Stone Town, we had lunch at “Mercury’s Restaurant”,named after Queen’s lead singer Freddy Mercury who was born here in 1946 to a family of Indian immigrants. With its maze of narrow streets, bazaars and splendid Arab mansions, Stone Town reminded us in many ways of the ancient Arab medinas that we visited in North Africa.

Further along the beach a fifty-metre wooden jetty jutted out into the sea.

Here we had a freshly brewed latte and lazily watched the dhows float by, from which fishermen proudly showed off the enormous fish they had caught. We also spent hours people-watching – perched on a tree trunk we watched fishermen on bikes, workers on horseback and an eccentric “wood artist” who called himself King Salomon and who was hanging out on the beach.

Our hotel was located on the shorefront, with breathtaking views of the Indian Ocean. It was a haven of peace and quiet and the combination of blue sea, white sand and palm trees made us feel like we were on a desert island.

The hotel’s beach club was just a short stroll down the deserted beach and offered boundless views out to the horizon: the ideal spot to meditate and relax, stretch out under a palm tree and sip a fresh coconut juice. Known as “tuwi” in Swahili, the juice was prepared straight from the tree - after the young boy serving us at the bar climbed up a palm tree to select the best coconut for us! It was definitely the freshest tuwi we had ever tasted!

The beach is also home to some amazing animals, like the tree climbing crab.

A special place to stay is the Zamani Zanzibar Kempinski hotel in

tres and 1 metre, these crabs do exactly what their name suggests: they climb

Zanzibar. For more information and bookings, go to www.kempinski.com

trees. We also spotted a coconut crab, the world’s largest land crab, nestled in

For more information on Tanzania tourism visit the website

the roots of a palm tree.

www.tanzaniatouristboard.com

Tanzania

Bright crimson or bluish-black in colour and measuring between 50 centime-

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Photography - Marc Veraart

Bangkok Religious idols

Bangkok is a city of temples (wats) and its inhabitants are very pious and there are countless popular myths and customs that are still very much alive among the population. Thus one tradition says that if you visit the three Buddhas – the sitting, the lying and the standing – in a single day, you will attain eternal happiness, prosperity and luck.

One of the most impressive sights in Bangkok is the Grand Palace and the royal temple Wat Phra Kaeo. With its bright colours and strangely shaped structures, it struck me as a perfect spiritual playground created by a goldadoring Buddhist king.

Wat Phra Kaeo also houses the Emerald Buddha, the holiest icon in the region. Made of green jade, this 45-centimetre statue sits atop what appears to be a huge gilt wedding cake. The Emerald Buddha itself is adorned with golden garments that are changed three times a year by the king. The king is a very popular figure in Thailand, as I learnt during my first taxi ride through town when the driver told me out of the blue that “the king is my heart.”

The Emerald Buddha’s great spiritual powers have made it a coveted icon throughout Southeast Asia and the Burmese and Thais have long been vying for its ownership, while pilgrims from around the world visit the relic in search of miracles.

Personally, my view of holy sites is that it’s more about the journey than the destination, but when I visited the Emerald Buddha Temple I had an unexpected religious moment. When I looked at the Buddha, a calm sense of serenity descended on me. It wasn’t mind-blowing, but it was noticeable and I hadn’t felt anything quite like it in a long time.

That evening, as I was sitting on the terrace of one of the highest open air bars in the Asia Pacific “Vertigo”, I wondered about that moment and about what had happened exactly. The image of the Emerald Buddha came to my mind unexpectedly; he looked magnificent, as did the city when I watched it

Thailand

move from day to night.

Marc Veraart For specialised advice on traveling through Thailand and visiting Bangkok, please visit the website www.thaisverkeersbureau.nl

I-San Thailand unspoilt

Away from Thailand’s much-crowded tourist trail running from the white sand beaches of the south the golden temples of the north, we discovered a new Thailand. Heading East to the province of I-San we found the Thailand of old – rolling rice paddies and wandering water buffalo, small villages filled with old traditions, a unique people and culture reflecting the influences of Thailand’s neighbours Laos and Cambodia; the latter which, under the

An exquisite stone reminder of this cultural legacy is found at the Khmer shrine of Prasat Hin Phimai, 60 kilometres from the province’s capital Korat.

Built between 1000 and 1100, the temple is similar in size and shape to its big brother Angkor Watt, to which it was once linked by a main road.

Walking through the main gate we get our first view of the main sanctuary and its ornately carved stepped-pyramid roof rising into the jungle sky.

Climbing up the steps of the sanctuary the sweet smell of incense fills the air - local visitors still leave offerings to the gods. Sitting in the shade and simply soaking up the ambience of this amazing place I strike up a conversation with a Thai university student on holiday here with his family.

He tells me that unlike the temples in Cambodia that were dedicated to Hindu deities, Prasat Hin Phimai is a Buddhist shrine.

After taking in the magnificence of this fallen empire, we stop for lunch. In a

Photography - Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT)

Khmer empire, ruled over this area of Thailand.

country renowned for its insanely hot food, I-San is infamous among Thais for being hot. We order grilled chicken, papaya salad and the region’s traditional sticky rice. Naturally, it comes served with a small bowl of red chilies. We make a start. Wow. These guys don’t mess about. Several ice cold bottles of beer are quickly ordered to put out the fire, brought out amid much good-hearted laughing from everyone else in the restaurant.

While in I-San we heard about one of the province’s largest holidays – an elephant round-up at the town of Surin. We couldn’t miss this so we hired a driver and headed off. We arrived to see a huge procession of elephants and riders – some in traditional war dress – marching through the main city in a blaze of colour, motion and noise. In the main stadium elephant riders re-enacted famous battles of old – we can tell you, seeing elephants charge

Thailand

at full speed towards each other is something you don’t forget!

Sietske Stutvoet For more information on I-San and other travel possibilities in Thailand, please visit the website www.thaisverkeersbureau.nl

Trinidad and Tobago True Caribbean

Some places exude such peace and serenity that you cannot help but feel relaxed as soon as you arrive. This is certainly the case of the beautiful islands of Trinidad and Tobago, the southernmost Caribbean islands just 11 kilometres off the Venezuelan coast. Two islands, one paradise, with all the ingredients for an unforgettable vacation! Clear blue skies, a turquoise sea, mysterious rainforests, rugged mountain landscapes with endless views and a colourful underwater world. And of course “liming”, the Caribbean art of relaxing, hanging out and enjoying life!

As soon as I step off the plane a pleasant heat washes over me and I can hear the first sounds of Soca music in the air. Outside, a bunch of liming locals are hanging around with name plates waiting for their guests. From the back seat of a shiny jeep I get my first glimpse of the island’s stunning scenery.

Colourful Caribbean-style houses, stalls piled high with brightly coloured fresh fruit and vegetables, abandoned sugar cane plantations, hidden bays, lush green mountains in the distance and little girls walking to school in their uniforms with white ribbons in their neatly braided black hair.

My hotel is right on the seafront with breathtaking views of the palm tree-lined beach and the dazzling blue sea beyond. It’s simply amazing. I find myself jumping around like a child – I just can’t believe that I am actually here! It is not just the surroundings, but also the quiet pace of life that is so magical. No honking taxis or hysterically ringing mobile phones. Everything exudes calm. What a paradise!

Just 20 minutes by plane from the serene Tobago, lies the buzzing capital of Trinidad, Port of Spain, an impressive harbour city with cathedrals, Hindu temples, mosques, green parks and warm-hearted people. The yearly carnival here is a must and I don’t hesitate to jump into the dancing masses! Dressed in a tiny emerald green costume covered in sequins, beads and feathers, I join the thousands of revellers for three days of entrancing dance and Soca music.

After the carnival, I head off into the countryside on an exciting mountain bike and rafting excursion and afterwards indulge in a day of shopping for Indian saris, Chinese kimonos and the best homemade Angostura rum and chocolate. This corner of the Caribbean offers the ultimate comibination of nature, culture, action and a feeling of total relaxation. What more could you

Trinidad & Tobago

want?

Charlotte Rings For specialised advice on travelling through Trinidad & Tobago, please visit www.gotrinidadandtobago.com For more information and other travel possibilities in Trinidad & Tobago, please visit the website from USP marketing PR at www.usp.nl

Izmir Photography - Marc Veraart and Bas van Doorn

Sun, sea and history

Izmir, Turkey’s third largest city on the country’s west coast, is the starting point from which to explore the Ionian Coast and the sites of Ephesus, Cesme, Kusadasi and Alacati.

We first set out to visit the historic sites in the area, of which Ephesus was the undisputed highlight. Ancient Ephesus was a great trading city and a centre for the cult of Cybele, the Anatolian fertility goddess. Of Turkey’s hundreds of ancient cities and classical ruins, Ephesus is the grandest and best preserved.

We wandered over the site and at times really felt that we had travelled back to Roman times.

After admiring the wonders of the ancient world, we felt we needed some rest and relaxation so we headed out to Alacati, Turkey’s best surf spot and one of the top four windsurfing sites in the world. The scenic village lies on a windy bay of the Aegean and hosts the windsurfing world championships.

We had a go at surfing ourselves and, after an initial struggle with the board and sail, we managed to stand up and pick up considerable speed. Still, after a while we decided we were probably more suited to sitting back on the beach and watching the pro-surfers working their magic out in the waves.

Just four kilometres from Alacati lies Cesme, one of Turkey’s most popular holiday resorts with clean sandy beaches, blue sea, great restaurants and a lovely climate. The name Cesme means fountain in Turkish and comes from the many springs that flowed in the area in the 18th and 19th centuries.

After visiting the old city centre with its 14th-century Genoese fortress and 16th-century caravanserai, we headed for the beach for a day of lazing about and swimming.

A two hour drive away, Kusadasi has a great nightlife with trendy bars and clubs and fabulous shopping districts. It is also one of Turkey’s most popular seaside resorts, with ferry services to Greece and Italy and stunning beaches.

We went out for a big night on the town in Kusadasi, both in the Westernstyle bars and in a real Turkish café with live music – an unforgettable night!

We entered the café with a group of about 20 people and were warmly received by the hosts. We were immediately included in the activities,

Turkey

including the traditional dances!

Bas van Doorn You can book a trip to Izmir through SunExpress. For more information, go to www.sun-express.nl

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Abu Dhabi A dazzling diamond in the desert Considered one of the most modern and wealthiest cities in the world, Abu Dhabi is a fascinating mix of Arabic tradition and sparkling modernity. For alongside the modern urban landscape, we soon discovered that long-held customs continue to be practiced. Thus we sampled the fruity water pipe (aka hubbly bubbly, shisha or nargile) and sat with locals to enjoy a cup of “kahwa”, spicy, cardamon-flavoured Arabic coffee. In Abu Dhabi it is served black without sugar and sweetened with mouthfuls of dates. It is also impossible to miss the atmospheric and distinctive call to prayer that rings from the city’s mosques five times a day: fajr at sunrise, zuhr around noon, ‘asr in the afternoon, maghrib at sunset and ‘ashaa in the evening.

During our stay we also went to the horse races, which is quite a memorable experience: the power and speed of these beautiful animals is truly breathtaking when seen from close-up and certainly very different from what you see on television. The camel races were another highlight and quite different from the horses. These lumbering comical animals lurch through the desert at unbelievable speed – it was really quite a sight! But while the spectacle was entertaining to us, locals are passionate about camel racing and see it as a serious business.

We also had some very exotic off-road adventures. Thus we discovered that the towering sand dunes near Liwa make excellent ski slopes – all you need is a snowboard, a T-shirt and jeans! So why deal with frostbite and snow when you can ski down slopes of golden sand under the desert sun?

Next we chartered a boat and set out to explore the mysteries of the Gulf waters. With only a guide and our scuba gear we plunged into a world not only filled with exotic marine life including sail fish and barracuda, but also fabulous old wrecks.

Our insatiable urge for adventure also took us “wadi bashing”, a bone-shaking but thrilling and unforgettable experience in which you head through dry

United Arab Emirates

river beds and off-road terrain in a four wheel drive. A real buzz!

A special place to stay in Abu Dhabi is the Emirates Palace Abu Dhabi.

For more information and bookings, please visit the website www.kempinski.com You can book a flight to Abu Dhabi through Etihad Airways. For more information and tickets, visit the website www.etihadairways.com

Ajman The road to Oman

We travelled through Ajman during Ramadan and we were fascinated by the traditions and rituals that engulf all of society during this time. Between sunrise and sunset you don’t see anyone eat, drink, smoke or even chew gum – it is only when the call to prayer sounds at sunset that people are allowed to break the fast with the iftar meal.

head dress. We started chatting to him and inevitably ended up talking

We adapted to the local customs, except for drinking water, which we really

From Ajman we set off north towards Oman – the road trip there through

couldn’t deprive ourselves of in the 40 degree Celsius heat. Getting used to

the Emirates was an experience in itself, with constantly changing land-

the Ramadan rhythm wasn’t hard and we joined the locals in breaking the

scapes and wonderfully friendly people. Crossing the border into Oman was

fast in some of the many “iftar tents” that were set up everywhere and where

like stepping into a different world; into a landscape largely untouched by

people gathered at sunset to enjoy the delicious food, drink and fruity shisha

man. Except for the modern highway, there was only silence and hardly any

water pipe on offer.

people, let alone tourists or tourist facilities. The hot and dusty road runs

about Ramadan. Mohammed explained the meaning of the holy month, saying that the fast is not about deprivation, but rather it is about returning to fundamental religious values of kindness, love and sharing food with the poor. Meeting Mohammed showed us a whole different aspect of the fast and gave us a greater appreciation of Ramadan’s daily rituals.

between the sea and the mountains to the tip of the peninsula where, throughout history, there have been intensive trade links with Iran across

was visibly proud of his Arabian heritage and dressed in a spotless white

the Persian Gulf. We sat there for hours, absorbing the emptiness which

“jalabiyya”, - the traditional dress worn by men in Ajman - and a long white

surrounded us – the mountains, the sea and the overwhelming silence.

United Arab Emirates

During one of these meals we met Mohammed; a tall, middle-aged man who

A special place to stay in Ajman is the Kempinski Ajman. For more information and bookings, please visit the website www.kempinski.com You can book your flight to Dubai through Etihad Airways. For more information and tickets, visit the website www.etihadairways.com

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Dubai Hot spices and hypermodernity Known as the “City of Gold”, Dubai is famed for its tax-free working conditions, booming economy and relaxed lifestyle. In this hypermodern city everything is possible – the latest plan is to build the world’s tallest skyscraper which will soar to a height of 750 metres.

the old part of town is worth a visit even if you are not

dhow. At Telegraph Island we let down the anchor

planning to buy anything: the glittering array of shop

and went snorkelling – under the surface these calm

fronts is certainly impressive.

waters conceal a stunning scenery of corals and fish.

If you like your food spicy, the nearby spice market,

Another highlight was “dune bashing”, which in-

Deira Old Souq, is also a (literal) hot spot to visit.

volves speeding over towering sand dunes in a land

Wandering among these fragrant stalls you can let

cruiser. We were stunned by the beauty and serenity

Shimmering gold

your senses be intoxicated by the exotic smells and

of the desert - though struggling up the sand dunes

On our first day, we set out to discover the trade that

colours of cardamom, cumin, hot pepper, thyme and

was hard work!

Dubai is most renowned for: the gold industry. There

curry.

are more than 800 jewellery shops in Dubai and gold

Take snow, great architecture and desert expanses

Sea, sand and… snow!

and what do you get? Ski Dubai. At the Mall of the

many gold shops and found that Dubai really does

Heading out of town we went on some great excur-

Emirates we found the largest indoor snow dome in

live up to its reputation as being the cheapest city in

sions, including a 9am to 4pm cruise through the

the world. And let us tell you – 6,000 tonnes of snow

the world to buy jewellery – there is plenty of choice

stunning fjords of Musandam where we spotted

in the desert is definitely a recipe for great skiing!

and prices are competitive. The famous Gold Souq in

families of dolphins swimming playfully around the

United Arab Emirates

is offered in all weights and shapes. We explored the

A special place to stay in Dubai is the Kempinski Mall of the Emirates. For more information and bookings, please visit the website www.kempinski.com You can book your flight to Dubai through Etihad Airways. For more information and tickets, visit the website www.etihadairways.com

Bryce Canyon Home of the legend people Thousands of delicately carved spires rise in brilliant colour from the amphitheatres of Bryce Canyon National Park. Millions of years of wind, water and geologic mayhem have shaped and etched the pink cliffs.

Our first view of this magical place was dramatic: rows of pine trees veiled the canyon’s grandeur until we reached the rim. Here the brilliant hues came alive as the sun set. We stood and looked over the park’s brilliantly coloured obelisks, fairy spires and columns. The canyon is named after the pioneer Ebenezer Bryce, who described it as “a helluva place to lose a cow”.

The local Indians have a legend explaining how the canyon was created. They say that before the Indians came to live in this region, it was the home of the

Photography - Martin Schäfer

Legend People. There were many kinds – birds, animals, lizards – but they all looked like people and they were evil. They were therefore turned into rocks, which explains the strange rock formations. As we stood there, it seemed to us that the Indians may be right…

Even today, this is cowboy and Indian country. Trading posts dotted Highway 12 as we approached and we came across places offering chuck wagon dinners, rodeos and Western shootouts all around the park.

We took the 37-mile round-trip drive around Bryce Canyon’s most famous viewpoints, dizzying in scope, with constantly changing views and colours.

We also explored the hiking trails at the bottom of the canyon, which led us to “The Furnace”, a valley filled with red and yellow spires that shoot up to the sky – a surreal place.

The rest of our journey through America’s Southwest took us through equally spectacular canyon landscapes and the dramatically coloured deserts of Arizona and Utah.

We visited the legendary Grand Canyon, an endless expanse of bewildering shapes and colours, stark promontories and soaring, sandstone pinnacles.

With its huge, strangely shaped rocks rising up from the desert plain, nearby Monument Valley is also breathtaking. This landscape has formed the setting for many Western films and driving through the huge valley you can imagine

United States of America

cowboys and Indians charging between the large monolithic rocks.

Martine van Hooff You can book a trip to the USA through NBBS Reizen. For more information, go to www.nbbs.nl

Miami Glitz and glam

Money, clubs, beaches, models, gangsters, TV series and recently the movie – we’re talking Miami, baby. When people come to the sun-drenched southernmost tip of the United States, they come to have a good time. Roll up the white jacket sleeves, break out the money clip and head to South Beach – SoBe to the locals – for the hottest action of the tropical night.

We were glam enough to get into SET – Paris Hilton’s venue of choice when she’s down south. Forget the dance floor, here you just jump on a table, stool, couch or even the bar and bust a move. We especially like the lingeriewearing dancers striking futuristic moves inside Plexiglas tubes behind the bar. Wild.

While you can certainly avoid all but the earliest hours of sunlight when you are in Miami, it would be a shame because there is plenty to see during the day. The city boasts the world largest concentration of Art Deco buildings - the distinctive pre-World War II modernist style of architecture with characteristic rounded corners and geometric ornamentation. The highlight of the district is the strip of hotels along Ocean Drive between 5th and 15th street. The buildings look like something out of a George Jetson cartoon and have been painted in contrasting pastel colours. Groovy.

Lincoln Road in the Art Deco district is the place to see and be seen. Several blocks have been shut off to traffic and the area is crammed with boutiques, book stores, designer furniture shops, restaurants and cafes. After spending too much money we kicked back with a cold beer at one of the open bars and watched stiletto wearing Gucci clad princesses drift past dread-locked buskers wearing nothing but capieroa pants. Bronze beach muscle men headed for the beach while young hip-hop fans check out the turn tables on display in the music stores. The one rule seems to be if you’ve got it, flaunt it.

Miami is also carving out a niche for itself as one of America’s emerging art centres. We made tracks for Wynwood, the new arts district and at least two years away from its first Starbucks. The district is sprinkled with art galleries which – much to our delight - generally concentrate on modern art. Even better, the owners are unpretentious and make you feel right at home.

Impressive.

To watch the sunset we headed back to the pedestrian-only promenade which runs along SoBe. At this time its teeming with bladers, runners and an endless parade of small, pampered dogs: dogs on rhinestone leashes, dogs in arms, dogs in baby strollers, dogs with more expensive haircuts than ours.

United States of America

Welcome to Miami.

Annemieke Verhagen You can book your flight to Miami through Martinair. For more information and tickets, visit the website www.martinair.com

United States The Best of the West

I have often visited the United States, but had until recently only been to large cities like New York, San Francisco, Boston, Washington and Miami. The main reason for this is that while I love the country, I am not really that fond of Americans.

casinos and wedding chapels that even I was able to spend two days here without getting bored.

Leaving the world of casinos behind us, we headed back into wide open spaces and canyon lands. We visited Zion National Park, Bryce Canyon and

However, a few months ago I travelled west for the first time, a journey that

Monument Valley, where we rented horses and headed out to explore the

changed everything. Upon arrival in San Francisco, I immediately felt at

striking red rock formations. Riding towards the sunset through this ancient

home: Chinatown, Fisherman’s Wharf, the Golden Gate Bridge, Alcatraz, the

landscape and listening to our Navajo Indian guide tell stories from the

trendy restaurants and the atmosphere of the city, even the mentality of the

past was a truly memorable experience that made my prejudices about the

inhabitants, all made me feel very at ease.

United States fade away instantly.

We rented a car and drove down the Pacific Coast to Monterey. Along the

Our journey ended in the Grand Canyon, Arizona’s landmark site that

way, wisps of fog rose up from the sea and we watched early-morning surfers

was carved out over millions of years. We took a helicopter flight over the

speed over the waves. After breakfast in a typically American diner, we

Canyons at sunrise: faced with the grandness of this landscape, I felt

headed inland to Yosemite Park, a vast natural reserve filled with rivers, water-

insignificant and from that moment onwards my view of the United States

falls, beautiful rock formations, the famous (Yogi) bears and giant Sequouia

changed for good. Sitting on the sunny beach of Santa Monica a few days

trees.

later, I was able to reassess things and throw out my prejudices. From now on, you won’t hear a bad word from me about the United States.

Our next stop was Las Vegas. I’m not really a gambler, but Vegas is such a

United States of America

colourful mix of kitsch, exuberance, towering hotels, shimmering lights,

Maarten de Ruiter Maarten de Ruiter is CEO from FOX Vakanties.