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沈從文的故鄉鳳凰，如他筆下所描述的那般，是 一個「貫串各個碼頭有一條河街，人家房子多一半著 陸，一般在水，因為餘地有限，那些房子莫不設有吊腳 樓。」他的墓地則座落在城外江畔半山上一座古雅的園 林之內。 春天裡一個潮濕的午後，我前往登臨憑吊。那裡有 個陰沉昏暗的木匾，扇面寫著「沈從文先生是我國著名 文學家、史學家、考古學家。1902年生於鳳凰，1988年 病故於北京。」 沈從文的作品曾一度因為政治原因被禁，至上世 紀八十年代才又重新獲得關注。文革之後他沒有繼續從 事寫作，而把更多的精力傾注到歷史博物館館長的職位 上。1978年平反之後，沈從文終於因其對於整一代作家 的影響力重新獲得全球矚目。 鳳凰現在成為一個短程旅遊的熱門度假區，其主 要就應歸因於這位文學大師筆下生動的描述。儘管現在
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were dangling-foot houses, half on land, half on stilts built over the water.” The writer’s grave is located on the outskirts of the river town in a quaint hillside memorial garden. I arrive on a damp spring afternoon to pay my respects. There’s a sombre wooden plaque that reads: “Mr Shen Congwen, our country’s famous writer and historian, was born in 1902 in Fenghuang and died in 1988 in Beijing.” The fact that Shen was mostly a political writer whose work was banned until the 1980s is largely eclipsed. He didn’t write again after the Cultural Revolution, busying himself in the Chinese Museum of History as a curator instead. Rehabilitated in 1978, Shen was at last able to revel in the global adulation bestowed on him as he influenced a whole generation
的遊客游河時都會有身著鮮艷民族服飾的土家族、苗族 姑娘兜售低價的旅遊飾品，卻仍有一些舊物與沈從文筆 下的世界發生著聯繫。現代化的發展似被阻隔在舊城之 外，漫步鋪滿鵝卵石的小巷，我想象著那些咖啡館裡滿 是衣著鮮艷的商人，妓女和士兵，他們居住在沈從文時 代的鎮竿──鳳凰的舊稱。 沈從文的作品裡描寫了很多軍事場景。因為曾鎮壓 苗民曾於1854﹣73的起義，鳳凰已經被納入軍事要塞。 而作為其武力遺產的證明，鳳凰古城之外就是南方長 城。儘管不如北方長城那樣長，這座南方長城作為明朝 防禦體系的一部分，同樣是為了保護漢族不受所謂南方 「野蠻民族」的入侵而修建。 很明顯中華帝國花費了很大的精力來防禦外來入
of new writers. Fenghuang’s status as a top regional tourist destination is in no small way due to the evocative stories sketched by Xiangxi’s famous master wordsmith. Though the riverboats now carry sightseers while the colourfully clad Miao and Tujia ladies hawk tourist trinkets, there still lingers some residue of Shen’s world. Modern development has been kept out of the old town, and along the cobbled backstreets, I let my imagination populate the cafés with the colourful cast of merchants, prostitutes and soldiers that inhabited Shen’s Zhen’gan – as Fenghuang was then known. There’s a great deal of military reference in Shen’s work. This is because Fenghuang, owing to the Miao rebellion of 1854-73, had been made part of the Military Preparedness Circuit. Testament to this martial legacy, the Southern Great Wall can be visited just outside Fenghuang. Though it’s nowhere near as long as it’s northern counterpart, the Wall is still an impressive Ming rampart designed to serve the similar purpose of protecting the Han from conflict with “barbarians” as the southern aboriginals were referred to. It’s clear that imperial China invested a great deal of energy managing this hostile region. But to understand exactly why Chinese rulers considered it so vital to placate Xiangxi, one should travel to Hongjiang, another ancient river town. When the bus swings onto a riverside road flanked by verdant mountains and the occasional wooden farmhouse, you really get a good view of Shen Congwen’s pastoral world devoid of the tourist tat that furnishes Fenghuang. Hongjiang Town, however, is a very different settlement from the woodstilted Fenghuang, a place instead comprised largely of crumbling Mao-era tenements. Its dingy, sombre constructs of red China, however, hide from view another historic marvel, namely Hongjiang Ancient Town. Unlike tourist-friendly Fenghuang, this marvellous quarter of winding stone alleys and ancient residents has hardly been developed for tourism. There are no cafés or karaoke joints, just a few informative wall plaques, some refurbished residences and, of course, the mandatory gate ticket. Exploring this maze of lurching Tudor-esque manors, Xiangxi’s mercantile history is gradually unveiled. There’s a Suzhou Guildhall, the Anti Salt Smuggling Bureau and the Fu Xingchang Opium Room to wander through. Countless businesses were established by outsiders like Yang Sanfeng Business Firm founded in 1368 by a Jiangxi native, and Yang JUN 2016
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