LOCAL SHOPPING SECRETS
Berkeley, Sausalito, and more
LIVING IN THE WEST
Top gifts under
$30
Where to find the West’s best skiing
The
Wow ’em!
Cranberry Obsession Snow Cake PAGE 76
new holiday classics
Sparkling spice cocktail Q Perfect cracked crab Q Easy eggnog cheesecake Q
DECEMBER 2008
From steal to splurge
Expert tips on Cabernet pairing
Sunset.com
ts es se r Ju st -R ig ht D
Cranberry obsession snow cake The party: The big Christmas feast The appeal: With its jewel-like filling, this cake is a snowy white showstopper
We’ve got the answers: sweet treats for 76
Sunset December 2008
Peppermint ice cream bonbons The party: Cocktails with lots of finger food The appeal: Dessert version of cocktail snacks; cute and tasty
each type of holiday party
By Amy Machnak | photographs by leigh beisch | food styling by dan becker Sunset December 2008
77
Cranberry obsession snow cake
SERVES 16 TIME 21/4 hours, plus cooling time Bakers’ tip To make a pure white cake, use your fingers to rub off the browned surface of each layer before assembling.
Cake
Buttercream
10 oz. unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus more for pans 31/2 cups cake flour 4 tsp. baking powder 1/2 tsp. salt 21/4 cups granulated sugar 7 large egg whites, at room temperature
5 large egg whites, at room temperature Pinch of salt 11/4 cups granulated sugar 12 oz. white chocolate (bars or a block, not chips), divided 1 lb. unsalted butter, cut into pieces and at room
CRANBERRY FILLING 33/4 cups cranberries, divided 3/4 cup granulated sugar 11/2 cups cranberry or cherry preserves
temperature
assembly 1/2
cup colorless liqueur such as crème de cacao or kirsch About 2 tbsp. powdered sugar
1. Preheat oven to 325°. Butter two 9-in. cake pans; set aside. 2. Make cake: In a large bowl, sift together flour, baking powder, and salt. Set aside. In the bowl of a stand mixer, beat butter and sugar together on low speed until light and fluffy. Add egg whites in 3 batches, scraping inside of bowl as needed. Beat in flour mixture in 5 batches, adding 1/4 cup water after each addition (you will begin and end with flour); make sure flour is completely blended each time before adding water. Pour batter into prepared pans, dividing evenly. Smooth tops with a spatula. 3. Bake until center of cake feels firm to the touch and a toothpick inserted in center comes out clean, about 40 minutes. Cool cakes completely in pans on a rack. 4. Meanwhile, make cranberry filling: Combine 3 cups cranberries, the sugar, preserves, and 1/4 cup water in a small saucepan and cook over high heat until cranberries pop and preserves melt, 5 to 10 minutes. Add remaining 3/4 cup cranberries, stir to combine, and remove from heat. Transfer to a small bowl and chill until ready to assemble cake. 5. Make buttercream: Fill a 2-qt. pan with about 1 in. water and bring to a simmer over low heat. Put egg whites, salt, and sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer and whisk to combine. Place bowl over hot water, making sure bottom of bowl isn’t touching water, and heat whites, whisking constantly, until hot to the touch, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove pan and bowl from heat. 6. Put bowl of warm whites on the mixer and whisk on high speed until tripled in volume and side of bowl is cool to the touch, about 10 minutes. 7. Meanwhile, chop 4 oz. white chocolate, put in a medium metal mixing bowl, and set in same pan of warm water off the heat to melt slowly, stirring occasionally. Remove bowl from pan and let cool to room temperature. 8. Reduce mixer speed to low and whisk butter into whites, about 1/4 cup at a time, until incorporated. Continue to whisk on low speed until smooth and fluffy, about 10 minutes (mixture may 78
Sunset December 2008
look grainy at some point but will come together). 9. With a rubber spatula, gently fold melted chocolate into buttercream until completely combined. 10. Assemble: Rub tops of both cakes gently with your hands to remove browned outer surface, then carefully invert cakes and rub undersides so that cakes are completely white. Place 1 cake layer on a cake stand or serving plate, top side up. Using a pastry brush, brush top with half the liqueur. Spread about 11/2 cups cranberry mixture over layer with a metal spatula, leaving a ½-in. empty border around edge. Place second cake layer on top, flattest side down, and brush with remaining liqueur. Spread top and sides of cake with a thin layer of buttercream to seal in crumbs and chill 30 minutes. Cover with remaining buttercream, starting with the sides and covering the top last. 11. Use the palm of your hand to warm remaining chocolate. Shave smooth side of chocolate bar with a vegetable peeler to make thin curls; scatter curls over cake’s top. Sift powdered sugar over cake. Serve with remaining cranberry mixture on the side. Make ahead: Baked cake layers can be wrapped in plastic and stored at room temperature or in the fridge up to 2 days ahead. Cranberry filling can be made up to 2 days ahead and chilled. PER SERVING 880 CAL., 46% (405 CAL.) FROM FAT; 6.8 G PROTEIN; 45 G FAT (28 G SAT.); 113 G CARBO (1.9 G FIBER); 288 MG SODIUM; 103 MG CHOL.
Peppermint ice cream bonbons
SERVES 8 to 10 TIME 40 minutes, plus about 6 hours to freeze Bakers’ tip When you dip the ice cream balls in chocolate, make sure you coat some of the skewer too—this keeps the ice cream from sliding off as it melts. 1/2
cup vanilla ice cream, softened tsp. peppermint extract 8 oz. white chocolate, chopped 1/4
2 tbsp. vegetable shortening 1/2 cup crushed peppermint candies
1. In a small bowl, stir together ice cream and extract until blended. Freeze until firm, at least 2 hours. Meanwhile, line a baking sheet with parchment paper and freeze alongside. 2. Using a large melon baller, quickly scoop all the ice cream into balls and place them on one side of the cold baking sheet. Freeze until firm, 1 to 11/2 hours. 3. Insert a decorative skewer or pick* into the center of each ice cream ball and return to freezer to set, about 30 minutes. 4. Meanwhile, put chopped chocolate and shortening into a small metal bowl. Set bowl in a slightly larger bowl of hot water and let sit until melted, stirring occasionally. Transfer chocolate mixture to a 1-cup glass measuring cup. Put crushed candies on a small plate. 5. Working with 1 ice cream ball at a time, dip into melted chocolate to coat, making sure chocolate reaches above ice cream onto the skewer and letting excess chocolate drip off bottom. Roll ball in candy and set on the clean side of the baking sheet. Repeat with remaining balls, returning them to the freezer if they start to soften. Freeze at least 2 hours before serving. *We used block picks from Pick On Us (from $10 for 100; pickonus.com or 800/874-2587). >81
Banana pecan dacquoise The party: Dinner with good friends The appeal: Silky caramel, ripe bananas, creamy vanilla custard, all oozing from a stack of crunchy meringue layers: You want only certain people to see you get this messy
For more of our favorite dessert recipes, go to sunset.com/xxxxx To change background color (fill), with direct selection tool
To change mouse color, (fill) with direct selection tool use layer palette to select
Sunset December 2008
79
Orange trifle with Grand Marnier cream The party: New Year’s Eve bash The appeal: A superrefreshing way to usher in the new year, and great with Champagne
80
Sunset December 2008
Bonbon Variations Experiment with other flavors of ice cream, such as coconut or chocolate, and coatings, such as flaked coconut or dark chocolate. PER BONBON 197 CAL., 50% (99 CAL.) FROM FAT; 1.3 G PROTEIN; 11 G FAT (5.9 G SAT.); 24 G CARBO (0 G FIBER); 39 MG SODIUM; 5.6 MG CHOL.
Banana pecan dacquoise
SERVES 12 TIME 21/2 hours, plus chilling time Bakers’ tip Dacquoise—a cake made of crisp meringue layers—works best if you pair it with soft, fluffy, or creamy fillings. This dessert is all about contrasts in texture.
BANANA CARAMEL 1 cup sugar 1 tbsp. light corn syrup 4 ripe bananas, chopped 1/4 cup whipping cream 1 tbsp. butter
PASTRY CREAM 1 cup whole milk 1/2 vanilla bean, split lengthwise 1/4 cup sugar 3 tbsp. flour 1/4 tsp. salt
Cardamom brownsugar palmiers The party: The office get-together The appeal: They look impressively hard to make (actually, the opposite is true); easy to pack
4 large egg yolks 2 tbsp. butter
NUT MERINGUES 3 cups toasted pecan halves, divided 11/3 cups sugar, divided 2 tbsp. cornstarch 6 large egg whites Pinch of salt
ASSEMBLY 1 cup whipping cream 3 firm-ripe bananas
1. Make banana caramel: In a medium saucepan, bring sugar, corn syrup, and ¼ cup water to a boil over high heat (do not stir). When sugar starts to darken in 1 spot, carefully swirl pan to caramelize evenly until medium amber in color. 2. Add bananas and cream (mixture will bubble up furiously); stir to mix. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, about 30 minutes. Stir in butter. Let cool, then chill airtight at least 2 hours. 3. Make pastry cream: In a small pan, heat milk and vanilla bean over high heat until starting to boil. Remove from heat and let sit 15 minutes. 4. Whisk sugar, flour, and salt together in a small bowl. Whisk in egg yolks, then gradually whisk in warm milk mixture. 5. Put mixture in pan and cook over medium heat, whisking constantly. When mixture boils, cook 2 more minutes, whisking (it should be very thick and stiff). Remove from heat, stir in butter, and remove vanilla bean. Transfer pastry cream to an 8- or 9-in. baking pan and lay a piece of plastic wrap directly on surface to prevent a skin from forming. Chill at least 1 hour. 6. Make meringues: Preheat oven to 300°. Place a 9-in. plate or cake pan on a piece of parchment paper (waxed paper won’t work) and trace around plate with a pen or pencil. Lay paper on a greased baking sheet, mark side down. Repeat with 2 more pieces of parchment and 2 more baking sheets. 7. Reserve 1 cup of the nicest-looking pecan halves for garnish. Put remaining 2 cups pecans, 2/3 cup sugar, and the cornstarch in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse until mixture is fine and crumbly, about 30 seconds. Pour into a large bowl. 8. Put egg whites and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer and whisk on medium speed until white and foamy. Increase speed to high
and slowly sprinkle in remaining 2/3 cup sugar. Keep whisking until stiff peaks form. Using a rubber spatula, fold into nut mixture. 9. Using spatula, dollop meringue into centers of parchment circles, dividing evenly. With an offset metal spatula, spread meringue outward to edge of circles. Bake meringues, in 2 batches if needed, until golden brown and crisp, about 45 minutes. Let cool completely on pans. 10. Assemble dacquoise: In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk cream until it just holds a peak (it shouldn’t be too stiff). Whisk half the whipped cream into chilled pastry cream. 11. Peel parchment from meringues. Set 1 meringue in the center of a cake stand and spread with half the pastry cream. Spoon on half the banana caramel. Quarter 1 banana lengthwise and lay on top. Repeat with second meringue, remaining pastry cream and caramel, and another banana. 12. Set last meringue on top and dollop remaining whipped cream in the center. Quarter last banana lengthwise and lay over cream. Sprinkle with half the reserved pecan halves and put the rest in a small bowl to pass at the table. Serve immediately, using a serrated knife to cut slices. Make ahead: It’s easier to create this dessert if you make all the components ahead and then assemble them shortly before serving, starting with step 10. Chill banana caramel and pastry cream for up to 4 days. Store meringues airtight at room temperature for up to 2 days. PER SERVING 576 CAL., 52% (297 CAL.) FROM FAT; 6.9 G PROTEIN; 33 G FAT (10 G SAT.); 69 G CARBO (3.6 G FIBER); 141 MG SODIUM; 115 MG CHOL.
Sunset December 2008
81
Orange trifle with Grand Marnier cream
SERVES 12 TIME 1 hour, plus chilling time Bakers’ tip Segmenting citrus fruit (removing the membranes so just fruit is left) makes it seem juicier and more tender. 12 to 14 medium oranges* 1/2 cup plus 1 tbsp. Grand Marnier or other orange-flavored liqueur (or orange juice), divided 12 oz. mascarpone cheese
3/4
cup whipping cream cup good-quality marmalade, divided 2 loaves (10.75 oz. each) pound cake, cut into 1/2-in. slices 3/4
1. Zest 5 oranges using fine side of a box grater or a razor-sharp grater, such as a Microplane; set zest aside. With a serrated knife, cut ends off all oranges. Set 1 orange cut side down on a cutting board. Following the curve of the fruit, cut off peel and white pith. Working over a strainer set in a bowl, slice next to each thin white membrane into the center of the orange, releasing segments of orange into strainer and leaving membranes behind. Squeeze juice from membranes into strainer and discard them. Repeat with remaining oranges until you have 4 cups segments and 1/2 cup juice (save remainder of both for other uses); put in separate bowls. 2. Add zest and 1/2 cup liqueur to bowl of juice and set aside. 3. In a stand mixer, combine mascarpone and cream and whisk until stiff peaks form. Add 1/2 cup marmalade and whisk to blend. 4. Arrange a third of the pound cake slices evenly in the bottom of a 3-qt. trifle bowl or other straight-sided bowl. Using a pastry brush, soak cake with 1/4 cup liqueur mixture. Dollop a third of the marmalade cream on top of cake. Arrange 1 cup orange segments over cream, making sure widest part of segments lies against the side of the bowl. Repeat with 1 more layer of cake, pressing down on it slightly before layering on same amounts of liqueur mixture, cream, and oranges. Arrange last layer of cake, drizzle with remaining liqueur mixture, smooth remaining third of the cream level over cake, and arrange remaining 2 cups oranges in a decorative spiral. 5. In a microwave-safe bowl, heat remaining 1/4 cup marmalade with remaining 1 tbsp. liqueur until hot; stir to combine. Brush warm marmalade over orange slices. Chill until ready to serve. *You can use any combination of orange varieties, including blood oranges, or stick to just one, as we did here with Valencia oranges. Make ahead: Zest, segments, or entire trifle can be made 1 day ahead. PER SERVING 489 CAL., 52% (252 CAL.) FROM FAT; 5.7 G PROTEIN; 28 G FAT (18 G SAT.); 52 G CARBO (1.8 G FIBER); 233 MG SODIUM; 156 MG CHOL.
Cardamom brown-sugar palmiers
MAKES 16 TIME 30 minutes, plus chilling time Bakers’ tip As with any super-buttery dough, chilling it makes it much easier to slice. 1/2
cup packed light brown sugar 2 tsp. ground cardamom
1 sheet (8.6 oz.) frozen puff pastry dough, thawed according to package instructions
1. Combine brown sugar and cardamom in a small bowl. Unfold dough flat on a work surface and sprinkle evenly with half the sugar mixture. 82
Sunset December 2008
2. Using a rolling pin, lightly roll sugar into dough so that most of sugar sticks, being careful not to change the shape of the dough. Turn pastry over and sprinkle evenly with remaining sugar. 3. Beginning with the side closest to you, fold in dough, 1 in. at a time, to the center of the rectangle. Repeat with the opposite side. Fold one half on top of other as if closing a book. Wrap dough airtight and chill at least 1 hour. 4. Preheat oven to 400°. Using a sharp knife, cut dough into 1/2-in. slices. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper and lay slices on flat sides about 2 in. apart. Bake slices until doubled in size and golden, about 10 minutes. Let cookies cool completely on trays. Make ahead: Unbaked palmiers can be frozen up to 2 weeks; baked palmiers may be made up to 2 days ahead and kept airtight at room temperature. PER PALMIER 111 CAL., 47% (52 CAL.) FROM FAT; 1.1 G PROTEIN; 5.8 G FAT (0.8 G SAT.); 14 G CARBO (0.2 G FIBER); 41 MG SODIUM; 0 MG CHOL.
Eggnog cheesecake
SERVES 12 TIME 11/2 hours, plus cooling time and at least 3 hours to chill Bakers’ tip Run a spatula around the inside of the pan just after baking to help the cheesecake firm up without cracking. 11/4 cups graham cracker crumbs 3 tbsp. butter, melted 3 pkgs. (8 oz. each) cream cheese, at room temperature 1 cup sugar, divided 4 large eggs, at room temperature
2 tbsp. all-purpose flour 1/3 cup brandy 2 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg, divided 1 cup whipping cream
1. Preheat oven to 300°. Pour graham cracker crumbs into a 61/2in.-diameter springform pan with a rim at least 3 in. high*; add butter and stir to mix. Press mixture evenly over bottom and 1/2 in. up side of pan. 2. In a large bowl, with a mixer on medium speed, beat cream cheese and 3/4 cup sugar until smooth. Add eggs 1 at a time, beating well after each addition and scraping down inside of bowl as needed. Beat in flour, brandy, and 11/2 tsp. nutmeg just until incorporated. Pour into crust-lined pan and bake until small cracks are visible on sides but center jiggles when cake is gently shaken, 40 to 50 minutes. 3. Run a thin-bladed spatula between cheesecake and pan rim. Put cheesecake on a rack and let cool completely. Cover and chill until cold, at least 3 hours. 4. Remove pan rim. If any moisture has collected on cake, gently blot dry with a paper towel. Cut cake slices with a serrated knife, running knife under hot water and wiping clean after each slice. 5. In a small bowl, whisk together cream and remaining 1/4 cup sugar until stiff peaks form. Dollop whipped cream onto cheesecake and sprinkle with remaining 1/2 tsp. nutmeg. *Find all sizes of springform pans at kitchen-supply stores. PER SERVING 440 CAL., 68% (297 CAL.) FROM FAT; 7.6 G PROTEIN; 33 G FAT (20 G SAT.); 27 G CARBO (0.3 G FIBER); 281 MG SODIUM; 168 MG CHOL. N
Eggnog cheesecake The party: Lunch or afternoon tea The appeal: It’s so rich that even a small slice is satisfying
Sunset December 2008
83