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living in the west February 2012
LIVING IN THE WEST
Best places to live | 10 Off-the-grid getaways | zesty comfort food | Preview of the new western garden book
10
Off-the-grid
Getaways p. 30
Best places to live
We’ve found your new hometown! The Western Garden
What to plant this spring
Zesty comfort food
Spicy curry, hearty chili & super-tasty posole
FEBRUARY 2012
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Garden to table
Watermelon radish
Ordinary on the outside, spectacular on the inside By Julie Chai and Amy Machnak
In the garden
A watermelon radish is like a much-wanted present in a plain cardboard box: At first glance, it’s unremarkable, but then when you look inside … hooray! Beneath that unassuming green-andwhite exterior lies deep pink flesh. Which explains the root’s alternate names: the red-meat or beauty heart radish. Find seeds at Kitazawa Seed Company (kitazawaseed.com).
Plant Sow seeds in a sunny spot in early spring (where the ground freezes, do this when the soil thaws); in mild climates, you can also plant in fall and winter. Keep soil moist, and thin seedlings to 3 inches apart. Water regularly through harvesttime. Feed about 10 days after planting by fertilizing beside the planted rows.
from left: E. Spencer Toy, Annabelle Breakey (2; food styling: Kevin Crafts)
Care
In your kitchen Watermelon radishes are slightly bigger than the common garden variety, and have a mild flavor. Their vibrant flesh turns a jewel-toned burgundy when cooked.
Harvest Pull watermelon radishes when they’re 21/2 to 3 inches in diameter, about 60 days after planting. Cut off leaves and stems (save the leaves for salads) and wash radishes thoroughly. Store cleaned radishes in a plastic bag, chilled, up to one week.
Use Trim tops and bottoms flush with the radishes just before serving or cooking. (If radishes seem soft, soak in ice water for a few hours to recrisp.)
Watermelon radish and goat cheese salad SERVES 4 | 30 MINUTES 2 watermelon radishes (81/2 oz. total), peeled, quartered, and sliced 1/2 English cucumber, halved and sliced 3/4 cup dill fronds 1 small shallot, thinly sliced 1/4 cup lemon juice 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1/2 tsp. kosher salt 1 head butter lettuce, leaves separated 4 oz. fresh goat cheese
+ 3 more ways with watermelon radishes Roasted radishes Cut radishes into wedges, drizzle with olive oil, and roast in a 375° oven, stirring occasionally, until fork-tender. Drizzle with more oil and sprinkle with coarse sea salt.
Steak and radish sandwich Arrange sliced grilled flank steak on toasted rye bread spread generously with chive butter. Top with arugula and thinly sliced peeled radishes.
Put all ingredients except cheese in a large bowl, tossing gently to combine. Assemble salads on 4 plates, and top each salad with crumbled cheese. PER SERVING 289 Cal., 82% (236 cal.) from fat; 7.2 g protein; 27 g fat (8.5 g sat.); 7.1 g carbo (1.3 g fiber); 357 mg sodium; 22 mg chol.
Pickled radish slaw Mix sliced watermelon radishes, red onion, and cucumber with a simple Champagne vinegar dressing and flat-leaf parsley leaves, and let it sit 30 minutes. ■ Sunset February 2012
43
What’s in season?
Broccoli rabe
keeping
Chill it in a plastic bag (so it won’t dry out) in the vegetable drawer for up to a week.
Choosing
Pick bunches with firm, small stems and only a few open florets. (FYI—it’s often labeled rapini.)
cooking
This Italian relative of common broccoli can be prepared in just the same ways; it has a stronger flavor, though, and cooks more quickly.
Broccoli rabe fritto misto SERVES 6 TO 8 | 1 HOUR, PLUS at least 1 HOUR TO CHILL 1 cup flour 2/3 cup cornstarch 1/2 tsp. each cayenne and garlic powder 1/4 tsp. pepper 3 tbsp. olive oil About 6 cups vegetable oil for frying 3 large egg whites, at room temperature 8 oz. broccoli rabe, ends trimmed Kosher salt to taste 1 lemon, half sliced thinly and half cut into wedges
1. Combine flour, cornstarch, and spices in a medium bowl. In
another bowl, mix olive oil with 11/2 cups cold water. Slowly whisk into flour mixture until smooth. Cover and chill at least 1 hour. 2. Pour 2 in. vegetable oil into a large, wide pot. Insert a deepfry thermometer and heat over high heat to 375°, then reduce heat to medium to maintain temperature. 3. Meanwhile, whisk whites with a mixer until soft peaks form. Using a rubber spatula, fold whites into batter. 4. Dip 1 stalk broccoli rabe at a time into batter, then carefully lower into hot oil. Cook, turning once, until golden, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel–lined baking sheet. Sprinkle with salt while warm. Dip and fry lemon slices the same way. Serve both warm or at room temperature with lemon wedges. PER SERVING 221 Cal., 48% (107 cal.) from fat; 4.2 g protein; 12 g fat (1.5 g sat.); 25 g carbo (1.2 g fiber); 31 mg sodium; 0 mg chol. ■
By Author Amy Machnak | PHOTOGRAPH BY Annabelle By tk | PHOTOGRAPH BY name tk | Foodbreakey Styling by name tk 98
Sunset February 2012
+
3 more ways BLANCH first to remove bitterness, then sauté with caramelized shallots, garlic, and currants, and top with toasted pine nuts. CHOP into small pieces and simmer with chicken broth, canned white beans, chopped carrots and onion, and torn pieces of day-old bread for a quick soup. SAUTÉ with olive oil, garlic, and lemon zest, then sprinkle with buttery bread crumbs and freshly grated pecorino cheese.
food styling: Kevin Crafts
make it tonight